Traditional Herbal Medicines for Modern Times

Herbal Principlesin Cosmetics

Properties and Mechanisms of Action

Bruno Burlando, Luisella Verotta,

Laura Cornara, and Elisa Bottini-Massa

CRC PressTaylor& Francis GroupBoca Raton London NewYork

CRC Press is an imprint of the

Taylor & Francis Croup, an informa business

Contents

Series Preface... xvii

Foreword xxi

Introduction xxiii

The Authors xxvii

Chapter 1 The Skin: Morphophysiological Traits and Disease 1

Epidermis 2

Dermal and Subdermal Tissue 3

Cutaneous Annexes 4

Skin Disorders 4

References 7

Chapter 2 Botanical Compounds and Their Dermatologic and

Cosmetic Uses 9

Lipids 9

Terpenoids 11

Phenols and Related Compounds 16

Flavonoids 20

Alkaloids 22

Carbohydrates 23

Glycosides 24

Hydroxy Acids 25

References 26

Chapter 3 Herbal Cosmetic Formulations: A Fuzzy Line between Actives

and Vehicles 29

Formulations and Skin Penetration 29

Vehicles 30

Surfactants 32

Thickening Agents 33

Penetration Enhancers 34

Preservatives 35

Noxious Side Effects of Topical Formulations 36

Conclusive Remarks 38

References 38

v

viContents

Chapter 4 Monographs of Herbal Principles 41

References 41

Abyssinian Kale 42

Features 42

Constituents 42

Properties 42

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 43Side Effects and Toxicity 43

References 43Acai Palm 45

Features 45

Constituents and Properties 46

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 46Side Effects and Toxicity 46

References 47Acerola 48

Features 48Constituents 48Properties 49

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 49Side Effects and Toxicity 49

References 50Almond 52

Features 52Constituents 53

Properties 53

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 53

Side Effects and Toxicity 54

References 54Aloe 55

Features 55Constituents 55

Properties 56

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 58

Side Effects and Toxicity 58References 59Argan Tree 62

Features 62Constituents 63

Properties 64

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 64Side Effects and Toxicity 64

References 64Baobab Tree 66

Features 66

Contents vii

Constituents 66

Properties 67

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 68

Side Effects and Toxicity 68

References 69

Bearberry 71

Features 71

Constituents 71

Properties 72

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 73

Side Effects and Toxicity 73

References 73

Bilberry 75

Features • 75

Constituents 75

Properties 76

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 78

Side Effects and Toxicity 78

References 78

Bladderwrack 82

Features 82

Constituents 82

Properties 83

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 83

Side Effects and Toxicity 84

References 84

Boswellia 87

Features 87

Constituents 88

Properties 88

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 89

Side Effects and Toxicity 89

References 89

Brewer's Yeast 93

Features 93

Constituents 94

Properties ; 94

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 95

Side Effects and Toxicity 95

References 95

Burdock 97

Features 97

Constituents 98

Properties .- 98

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 99

Side Effects and Toxicity 100

Contents

References 100Buriti Palm

102Features 102Constituents and Properties 103

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 103Side Effects and Toxicity 103

References 103Butcher's Broom 105

Features 105Constituents 106Properties

• 106

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 106Side Effects and Toxicity 107

References 107Chamomile

109Features

, 109Constituents 110Properties 110

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 110Side Effects and Toxicity Ill

ReferencesIll

Chasteberry 113Features 113Constituents 114Properties 114Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 115Side Effects and Toxicity 115

References 116Chlorella 118

Features118

Constituents : 118

Properties 119Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 119Side Effects and Toxicity 119

References 120Cinnamon

121Features 121Constituents 122

Properties 122

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 123Side Effects and Toxicity 123

References123

Coconut Palm127

Features127

Constituents128

Properties 129

Contents ix

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 129

Side Effects and Toxicity 129

References•

130

Cola 132

Features 132

Constituents 132

Properties 132

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 133

Side Effects and Toxicity 133

References 134

Cotton 135

Features 135

Constituents 136

Properties 136

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 136

Side Effects and Toxicity 136

References 136

Cupuacu 138

Features 138

Constituents 138

Properties 139

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 139

Side Effects and Toxicity 139

References 139

Dulse 141

Features 141

Constituents 141

Properties 142

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 142

Side Effects and Toxicity 143

References 143

English Ivy 145

Features 145

Constituents 145

Properties 146

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 147

Side Effects and Toxicity 147

References 147

European Elder 150

Features 150

Constituents 151

Properties 151

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 152

Side Effects and Toxicity 152

References 152

x Contents

Ginkgo 155

Features 155

Constituents 156

Properties 156

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 157

Side Effects and Toxicity 158

References 158

GotuKola 160

Features 160

Constituents 160

Properties 161

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 161

Side Effects and Toxicity 162

References 162

Grape 165

Features 165

Constituents 166

Properties 167

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 170

Side Effects and Toxicity 171

References 171

Green Tea 176

Features 176

Constituents : 177

Properties 178

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 179

Side Effects and Toxicity 179

References 180

Guarana 183

Features 183

Constituents 183

Properties 184

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 184

Side Effects and Toxicity 185

References 185

Hops 188

Features 188

Constituents 190

Properties 190

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 193

Side Effects and Toxicity 193

References 194

Horse Chestnut 200

Features 200Constituents

,201

Properties 201

Contents xi

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 202.

Side Effects and Toxicity 203

References 203

Iceland Moss 207

Features 207

Constituents 208

Properties 208

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 209

Side Effects and Toxicity 209

References 209

Indian Coleus 211

Features 211

Constituents 212

Properties 212

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 213

Side Effects and Toxicity 213

References 213

Irish Moss 217

Features 217

Constituents 217

Properties 218

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 218

Side Effects and Toxicity 218

References 219

Lemonbalm 220

Features '. 220

Constituents 221

Properties 221

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 222

Side Effects and Toxicity 222

References 222

Licorice 226

Features 226

Constituents 226

Properties 226

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 228

Side Effects and Toxicity 229

References 229

Linden 232

Features 232

Constituents 233

Properties 233

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 233

Side Effects and Toxicity 234

References 234

xii Contents

Macadamia Nut 235Features

• 235Constituents 236

Properties 236

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 236Side Effects and Toxicity 237

References 237

Maerl -239Features 239

Constituents 240

Properties 240

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 241Side Effects and Toxicity 241

References 241

Mafura 242

Features 242Constituents 242

Properties 243

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 243

Side Effects and Toxicity 244References 244Malabar Tamarind 245

Features 245

Constituents 245

Properties 245

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 246

Side Effects and Toxicity 246

References 246

Mango 248Features 248Constituents.... 249

Properties '

249

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 251Side Effects and Toxicity 251

References 252

Marula 256Features 256Constituents 256

Properties 257

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 257

Side Effects and Toxicity 257References 257

Methylxanthines 259

Features 259

Properties 260

Contents xiii

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 261

Side Effects and Toxicity 262

References 262

Moringa 264

Features 264

Constituents 265

Properties 266

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 267

Side Effects and Toxicity-. 267

References 267

Murumuru 270

Features 270

Constituents,

271

Properties and Cosmetic Use 271

Side Effects and Toxicity 271

References 271

Neem 273

Features 273

Constituents 274

Properties 274

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 276

Side Effects and Toxicity 276

References 276

Oarweed 280

Features 280

Constituents 281

Properties 281

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 282

Side Effects and Toxicity 282

References 282

Olive Oil : 284

Features 284

Constituents 285

Properties 285

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 286

Side Effects and Toxicity 286

References 286

Perilla 288

Features 288

Constituents 288

Properties 289

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 290

Side Effects and Toxicity 290

References 290

Pomegranate 291

Features 291

xiv Contents

Constituents 292

Properties 292

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 293Side Effects and Toxicity 294

References 294

Purple Tephrosia 297Features 297Constituents 297

Properties 297

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 298Side Effects and Toxicity 298

References 299

Rosa Mosqueta 300

Features 300

Constituents 300

Properties 301

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 301

Side Effects and Toxicity 301References 301

Rosemary 303Features 303Constituents 304

Properties 304

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 305

Side Effects and Toxicity 305

References 306

Round-Head Bush Clover 308Features 308

Constituents 308

Properties 308

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 309

Side Effects and Toxicity 309

References 309

Sachalnchi 311

Features 311

Constituents 311

Properties 311

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 312

Side Effects and Toxicity 312

References 312

Sausage Tree 313

Features 313Constituents 314

Properties 314

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 315

Side Effects and Toxicity... 315

Contents xv

References 316

Savory 318

Features 318

Constituents 319

Properties 319

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 320

Side Effects and Toxicity 320

References 320

Shiitake 322

Features 322

Constituents 322

Properties 323

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 323

Side Effects and Toxicity 324

References 324

Soybean 326

Features 326

Constituents 327

Properties 327

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 331

Side Effects and Toxicity . 331

References 332

Spirulina 336

Features 336

Constituents 337

Properties 337

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 338

Side Effects and Toxicity 338'

References 338

St. John's Wort 340

Features 340

Constituents 340

Properties 341

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 342

Side Effects and Toxicity 342

References 342

Wakame 344

Features 344

Constituents 344

Properties 344

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 345

Side Effects and Toxicity 345

References 346

Watercress 348

Features 348

Constituents ....349

Contents

Properties 349

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 350

Side Effects and Toxicity 350

References 350

Wheat 352

Features, 352

Constituents 353

Properties 353

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 354

Side Effects and Toxicity 355

References 355

Wild Yam 358

Features 358

Constituents 358

Properties 359

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 360

Side Effects and Toxicity : 360

References 360

Witch Hazel 363

Features 363

Constituents 363

Properties 364

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 364

Side Effects and Toxicity 365

References 365

Yellow Sweet Clover 368

Features 368

Constituents 369

Properties 369

Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use 370

Side Effects and Toxicity 370

References 370

373