8/12/2019 Here's a Low-cost, Low-tech Refrigerator That Really Works...

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By J.D. Hooker

Afriend was recently preparing

to shell out well over $1000

for a kerosene-fired refrigera-

tor. While these are useful and valu-

able devices in many circumstances, I

didnt think he needed one.

He had a 4-inch, 200 foot deep well

to supply the water needs for his

household and livestock. After he

examined my water-cooled refrigera-

tor closely, he built himself a dupli-

cate the same weekend.

For inhabitants of many rural areas,

a similar owner-built unit can offer the

same cost savings and reliability they

do for our households. There are no

moving parts, no chemicals like freon,

almost no maintenance, no operating

cost, nothing to wear out, and they can

be put together from salvage material

in only a few hours.

Cold well water needed

The only real requirement is a deep

well water supply, with a steady water

temperature between 35 and 50 F.

In most of the country, deep wells

have become a necessity for those out-

side the public water supply lines, due

to lowering water tables, ground waterpollution in shallow wells, and similar

circumstances.

Check your water temperature by

allowing the water to run for several

minutes, emptying the lines and tank.

Then fill a bucket with fresh water and

insert a thermometer. If your water

temperature is above 50, you are

probably one of the people who

should look into a kerosene or LP gas

refrigerator, or stick with electric.

Its simple

Really, the whole idea is extremely

simple. At the point where the water

supply enters your dwelling, the

incoming cold water is routed through

a coil of pipe or hose installed inside

an insulated box before it goes any-

where else. Whenever water is used

for dish washing, laundry, showering,

flushing the toilet or whatever, fresh

cold water circulates through this coil

and cools the interior of the insulated

box.

Construction

Any sort of well-insulated box will

serve. Depending on your tastes, abili-

ties, and what is available, you might

opt for anything from an ultra-fancy

oak and brass ice-box replica to some-

thing rigged together from plywood

and sheet metal scraps.

For me, the best solution was to use

a worn out chest freezer. I knew my

July/August 1994 Backwoods Home Magazine

67

Install the cooling coil in an

insulated box and hook it up

to household plumbing. An

old, worn-out chest-style freezer

is ideal, but any sort of insulated

box will work.

INDEPENDENT ENERGY

Fashion cooling coils from

copper or plastic water line.

Even garden hose would work.

For a smaller cold storage space, wrap a 30-gallon drum with garden hose

and insert it into a 55-gallon drum. Fill the space with insulation or

very dry sawdust. Make a lid from styrofoam or other insulating material.

Here's a low-cost, low-tech

refrigerator that really works

8/12/2019 Here's a Low-cost, Low-tech Refrigerator That Really Works...

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wife would never go along with this

project if I didnt end up with some-

thing that looked like a normal and

attractive household appliance. The

chest type is superior to upright freez-

ers because all your cool air wont

spill out when you open the door.The very first thing I did was cut off

the power cord. The next step was to

repaint the unit with appliance enam-

el. Then I cut a hole in the bottom and

installed a PVC sink drain in case of

spills or condensation.

Using a conduit bender, I then

formed " soft copper tubing to

match the interior dimensions of the

compartment. Hard copper and sweat-

on fittingsor even plastic pipe

would probably work just as well. I

already had the soft copper tubing, soI used it.

After putting the unit in place, hook-

ing it into the water line, and checking

for leaks, we had to wait almost two

days for the inside temperature to drop

to 42. Since then it has held that

same reading for almost five years.

Cold water refrigeration is not a new

concept. Nor is it adaptable to each

and every situation. If, however, you

are already drawing your water supply

from a deep well with a fairly constant

water temperature, why would youwant to keep throwing your hard

earned money away for electricity,

kerosene, or any other fuel when you

can refrigerate for free?

July/August 1994 Backwoods Home Magazine

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By Larry Elliott

Storage batteries are used in just about every independent energy system. The

lead acid storage battery is a familiar sight in your car. Usually these batteriesgive years of trouble-free service and the average driver rarely has to be con-

cerned about the chemistry of the battery, cycle life, or charge/discharge rates.

The lead acid batteries used in an independent energy system are another story. If

there is one item that is least understood or abused in these systems, its the bat-

tery. If you follow the list of dos and donts outlined below, living with the stor-

age battery will be a lot easier and less costly.

Rule 1. This comes as a shock to most people, but a 12-volt lead acid battery is

almost dead when the voltage at rest (no loads or discharge) is 12 volts. Less than

25% of the batterys capacity remains. The voltage of a 12-volt lead acid battery

will vary between 11.6 and 12.6 volts discharged and fully charged. This one volt

range can be used as an approximate indicator of the state of charge and illus-

trates the need for an accurate digital voltmeter.

Rule 2. In order to obtain long life from your batteries they should be dis-charged to no more than 50% of capacity. This is not easy to accomplish, espe-

cially in a solar electric system in winter. A backup generator or, if you have the

wind, a wind generator, can make this a lot easier to do reliably. Hydroelectric

systems dont usually have this problem.

Rule 3. Dont use car batteries in an independent system. They are not made to

be deep-cycled and will have an early death when used in this way. A good golf

cart or forklift battery like the Trojan L-16 is a much better choice.

Rule 4. Never let a lead acid battery sit in a discharged state. Recharge as soon

as possible. Every time you let them set for any length of time (even a few days)

you will begin to accumulate lead sulfate on the plates that reduces their capacity.

Rule 5. If you live in a cold climate, be sure and provide insulation or a warm

area for your batteries. The useful capacity and the batteries ability to deliver

power are greatly reduced in cold temperatures. Your batteries can also freezewhen in a discharged state, so keep them warm.

Rule 6. Never draw large amounts of current from your batteries when in a dis-

charged state. Damage to the plates can occur.

Rule 7. Batteries should have an equalize charge at least every other month

or sometimes once a month depending on how severe the service. An equalize

charge is a form of controlled overcharge that helps to place all the cells at an

equal voltage. Large currents are needed to equalize, so once again you can see

the need for a backup generator. An ideal method of equalization is to purchase

an inverter with a built-in battery charger and an equalize function.

Rule 8. Never attempt to adjust the electrolyte level in the battery. Raising or

lowering the specific gravity not only voids the warranty, but can ruin the batter-

ies or pose an unhealthy risk of acid burns. Adding distilled water when needed

should be as far as you go.

Rule 9. Always keep battery terminals and the tops of the batteries clean and

free of corrosion. The batteries can self discharge rapidly, and badly corroded ter-

minals can cause electrical problems, especially when drawing a lot of current.

Rule 10. Do some follow-up study on charge and discharge rates for your bat-

teries. Consult a reputable battery dealer or the supplier/designer of your system

as to the best way to treat your batteries. Nothing can kill a good set of batteries

faster than improper charging and discharging.

The care of lead acid batteries