hidden gems leeds
TRANSCRIPT
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8/19/2019 Hidden Gems Leeds
1/7
Sheffield
m a p
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8/19/2019 Hidden Gems Leeds
2/7
Explo re f o r less
t h e r e are gu i d e s , a n d
ther
e a
r e
r o u gh gu i d e s . . . fun this way
In front of you is one of the most interesting, inspiring
and downright insightful destination guides there is.
It’s part of our Rough Guide series, and it will help you
swap the beaten track for an unbelievable trip.
You’ll discover hidden gems and best-kept secrets. It’s
like having your own local tour guide, right there in your
pocket. It even comes with your very own map. Get out
there, explore and share your findings on Facebook or
Twitter on your glorious return.
There’s a full set of these Rough Guides, covering
lots of amazing places across the north of England
and Scotland. Book your next adventures online at
tpexpress.co.uk and collect the whole set.
d o w n l o a d o u r f r e e t r a i n t i m e s a p p
check out ourmobile website
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8/19/2019 Hidden Gems Leeds
3/7
5A ROUGH GUIDE4
Yorkshire’s commercial capital, and one of the fastest-growing cities in
the country, Leeds has undergone a radical transformation in recent
years. There’s still a true northern grit to its character but the city is
revelling in its new persona as a booming financial, commercial and
cultural centre. The renowned shops, restaurants, bars and clubs
provide one focus of a visit to contemporary Leeds; couple all that with
an abundance of heritage, architecture, museums and galleries and it’s
easy to see why this is one of northern England’s most inviting cities.
Leeds
The WardrobeSt Peter's Square LS9 8AH Gmap T 0113 383 8800
Wwww.thewardrobe.co.uk HMon–Tues 11am–11pm, Wed 11am–midnight,
Thurs 11am–1am Fri 11am–2am, Sat noon–2am, Sun 5pm–11pm
Change has come quickly to
Quarry Hill. In 1999, when bar/
restaurant/venue The Wardrobe
opened its doors, there wasn’t
much of a cultural scene at all.
Nowadays, the Northern Ballet,
BBC Yorkshire and Leeds Gallery
are all based in the area. So much
has changed that people have
started calling this the city’s
creative quar ter. The fact that
The Wardrobe is st ill going
UpStaged1 White Cloth Hall, Crown Street LS2
7DA Gmap T 0113 243 5855
Wwww.upstagedleeds.co.uk H
Mon–Sat 10.30am–6.30pm,
Sun 11.30am–4.30pm
You won’t come across replicas
or ‘vintage-style’ garments at this
kaleidoscopic, independently run
clothing shop tucked behind the
Corn Exchange. All of the clothes
– and there are items for ladies,
gents and children – are one-off
pieces, so if you decide to buy
something here there’s very little
chance of bumping into someone
wearing the same thing later that
day. The only exception would be
the new Dr Mar tens boots at one
end of the shop.
Surprisingly, given the quality
of some of the stuff, almost
everything is under £100,
including 1950s cocktail dresses
and tailored men’s overcoats. The
owner has also put a lot of effor t
into selecting other bric-a-brac
and ephemera to keep the shop
interesting. There’s an impressive
collection of reconditioned vintage
telephones, gramophones and
1940s radios, plus a couple of
leathery hand-held travel trunks
and a mannequin’s head, posing in
a deerstalker hat. Shopping on a
budget? Ask to have a r ummage
in the ‘dressing-up box’, where
you’ll find scarves, hair accessories
and the odd hat or bag for as
little as £3 a pop.
https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.811295,-1.536627&spn=0.036691,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=1&iwloc=0004d6c93a333700a7548http://www.thewardrobe.co.uk/https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.804148,-1.537228&spn=0.036697,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=6&iwloc=0004d6c933c289b50ac70http://www.upstagedleeds.co.uk/http://www.upstagedleeds.co.uk/https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.804148,-1.537228&spn=0.036697,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=6&iwloc=0004d6c933c289b50ac70http://www.thewardrobe.co.uk/https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.811295,-1.536627&spn=0.036691,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=1&iwloc=0004d6c93a333700a7548
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8/19/2019 Hidden Gems Leeds
4/7
A ROUGH GUIDE 76
Red’s True BBQCloth Hall Street LS1 2HD Gmap T 0113 834 5834
Wwww.truebarbecue.com HMon–Thurs noon–11pm, Fri–Sat noon–
midnight, Sun noon–10pm
“Let there be meat”,
proclaims Red’s, vowing
to save the people
of Leeds from what
it describes as “bad”
barbecue food. Eating
at this American-
inspired restaurant on
Cloth Hall Street is
not quite a religious
experience, but the
food is pretty darn
tasty all the same. It’s
everything you’d hope
for from a barbeque:
Hyde Park Picture House73 Brudenell Road, Headingley LS6 1JD Gmap (bus #56 runs from The
Headrow in Leeds city centre, stopping across the road)T 0113 275 2045
Wwww.hydeparkpicturehouse.co.uk H Evenings and weekends; doors open
15 mins before each film starts; see website for exact times P adults £6.40–
£6.90, concessions £5–£6, under 14s £4.60
There’s just one screen at this
99-year-old ar t-house cinema,
hidden away in a residential part
of Headingley that’s popular with
students. The picturesque picture
house was built in 1914, as the
First World War engulfed Europe,
and is said to be one of the longest
continually operating cinemas in
the country. It still has a lot of charm,
with a tiny red-and-white box office
out front, plus gas lamps and
stained glass fittings throughout the
carpeted lobby.
Films shown in the 280-seat
theatre range from monochrome
comedies starring Audrey Hepburn
strong despite the influx of other
diversions is testament to its
unique concept.
You can drop into the bar for
a drink (cocktails start at £6.40)
or have a lazy dinner at the
restaurant, Soul Kitchen, where
the menu focuses on slow-cooked
Cajun and Caribbean flavours.
Then you can finish up the night
watching a show in the downstairs
club. Sometimes it’s musicians on
the stage, other times it’s cabaret
acts and international dance
troupes. If it’s your first visit, take
a moment to look around the
building; it was once a wallpaper
factory, before actors from the
West Yorkshire Playhouse started
using it as a storage space for
their costumes – hence the
connection with wardrobes.
big hunks of meat, smothered in
barbecue sauce and served up with
deliciously sloppy sides. And to look
at the sheer size of the portions,
you’d be forgiven for thinking that
you’d swapped West Yorkshire for
the American Southwest.
The menu is also pretty
authentic, with a satisfyingly red-
blooded selection of burgers, ribs,
sandwiches and steaks (mains from
£8.95). The meats are rubbed in
herbs and left for at least 24 hours
before they’re smoked and served,
giving them a teeth-squeakingly
juicy texture. It’s worth try ing at
least a couple of the sauces too;
they’re inspired by flavours from
Kentucky and Carolina, but made
in the open kitchen in-house.
Go easy on the ‘triple 6’ hot sauce,
though – made with the world’s
hottest Naga Bhut Jolokia chillies,
it really packs a punch!
https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.804148,-1.537228&spn=0.036697,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=6&iwloc=0004d6c90b662b29dbd77http://www.truebarbecue.com/https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.811295,-1.536627&spn=0.036691,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=1&iwloc=0004d6c900a8609a0a28ahttp://www.hydeparkpicturehouse.co.uk/http://www.hydeparkpicturehouse.co.uk/https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.811295,-1.536627&spn=0.036691,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=1&iwloc=0004d6c900a8609a0a28ahttp://www.truebarbecue.com/https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.804148,-1.537228&spn=0.036697,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=6&iwloc=0004d6c90b662b29dbd77
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8/19/2019 Hidden Gems Leeds
5/7
A ROUGH GUIDE 98 LEEDS
Thackray Medical MuseumNext to St James’s Hospital, Beckett Street LS9 7LN Gmap (buses #16, #42,
#49, #50 and #50A all run from the city centre and stop directly outside the
musum) T 0113 244 4343 Wwww.thackraymedicalmuseum.co.uk
H daily 10am–5pmP adults £7, 5–16s £5, under fives free
It’s the hands-on exhibitions and
pongy recreations of Victorian
streets that get younger visitorsexcited about visiting this charity-
run museum, which tells the story of
medicine. The museum’s
net is cast wide,
covering everything
from the quack
remedies prescribed
centuries ago to the
cutting-edge technology
that’s used in modern
operating theatres. It’s a
lot of fun and there’s a
good chance you’ll learn
something along the
way too. Well-annotated
exhibits show how plastic redefined
the way that doctors care for their
patients, and how microorganismsspread diseases from one person
to another.
Sela Bar20 New Briggate LS1 6NU Gmap T 0113 242 9442
Wwww.selabar.com HMon–Tues 4pm–1am, Wed–Thu 4pm–2am, Fri 4pm–
3am, Sat 3pm–3am, Sun 4pm–midnight
Blink and you’ll miss it. Sela Bar has
such a skinny entrance that it’s easy
to walk straight past. If you do spot the door, and follow the stairs down
into a ruby-coloured lounge with
a small velvet-draped stage at one
end and a bar strung with fairy lights
at the other, you’ll wonder why theowners haven’t made more of a
song and dance about it. Here, amid
the bustle of one
of the city’s busiest
shopping districts,
is a relaxed,
subterranean
hangout where
you can watch a
rock band or jazz trio while drinking
a well-mixed
cocktail. It’s a small
space, providing
a more relaxed
to gritty, Finnish-made documentaries
about rock music – although
Hollywood blockbusters are
screened if they are cr itically
acclaimed. There are also late night
“Creatures of the Night” screenings
every Saturday, with a focus on
gory slasher flicks, cult classics and
bizarre documentaries. Unusually,
the theatre at the Hyde Park Picture
House has two different levels of
seating. Choose one of the more
expensive tickets and you’ll be able
to take your popcorn up to the
cosier balcony level, which is reached
by an elegant double staircase.
alternative to some of the city’s
rowdier late-night bars.
To some degree, your experience
at Sela Bar will depend on the day
of the week. On Wednesdays, for
example, a local reggae band takes
over the stage, while Friday and
Saturday nights are given over to DJs
playing funk and soul. Whichever night
you’re there, make sure you try one
of the pizzas (£6.50), served until
midnight. Another option is to grab a
drink and ask to borrow one of the
board games stashed behind the bar.
https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.80648%2c-1.541691&spn=0.036695%2c0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=6&iwloc=0004d6c9206d74b0fd828http://www.thackraymedicalmuseum.co.uk/https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.797559,-1.536627&spn=0.036703,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=1&iwloc=0004d6c91857f25e258f2http://www.selabar.com/http://www.selabar.com/https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.797559,-1.536627&spn=0.036703,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=1&iwloc=0004d6c91857f25e258f2http://www.thackraymedicalmuseum.co.uk/https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.80648%2c-1.541691&spn=0.036695%2c0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=6&iwloc=0004d6c9206d74b0fd828
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8/19/2019 Hidden Gems Leeds
6/7
A ROUGH GUIDE 1110
Thwaite MillsThwaite Lane, Stourton LS10 1RP Gmap (bus #110 runs between the
central bus station and Stourton, a 10-minute walk from the mill) T 0113 276
2887Wwww.leeds.gov.uk H Sat–Sun 1pm–5pm, closed Mon. Also open Tues–
Fri 10am–5pm during local school holidaysP adults £3.30, children £1.20
Although it’s only two and a
half miles from Leeds train
station, Thwaite Mills feelsrefreshingly rural. On an island
that’s lapped by the gently
flowing waters of the River
Aire, this attractive, brick-
built complex is home to
one of Br itain’s last remaining
water-powered mills. Pushed
into life by two 18-foot-wide
waterwheels, the machinery
still works, although it’s onlycoaxed into action for the
benefit of visiting tourists.
There was a mill here as early as
the mid-1600s, when water power
was used to pound locally produced
cotton, but the gearwheels and pulleys
you see today date from the 1870s,
when they were used to grind stones
for paint and putty. You can get an
idea of how it was to live at the mill
in the latter years of its working
life by wandering through a neatly
Thornton’s ArcadeThorntons Arcade LS1 6LQ Gmap H hours vary from shop to shop
Three storeys high and with a
curved glass roof, Thornton’s Arcade
is one of the prettiest shopping
precincts in Leeds. It’s also the
oldest, having been completed in
1878. Local wine merchant Charles
Thornton bought the site
several years beforehand, and
applied to demolish the Talbot
Inn, renowned for its raucous
cockfights, which stood in the
way of his vision for a new
kind of shopping experience
in the city.
Today, the narrow arcade
is home to a mixture of
independent shops, including
urban clothing outlet Chimpand jewellery shop Argent,
which sells charms and
wristwatches. High street
staples like Marks & Spencer
are also close by (in 1884
co-founder Michael Marks
Temporary exhibitions held in a
room near the reception desk tackle
difficult issues like disability and
biological weapons, and there’s a
vast research library and research
centre that houses more than
40,000 books on medicine through
the ages (booking is essential if you
want to access the collection). Dads
visiting the museum might also
like to try on the curious-looking
‘empathy belly’. This bulging, front-
heavy vest aims to show visitors
how it feels to be heavily pregnant.
started his penny bazaar on Kirkgate
Market, a five-minute walk away).
Although the whole place was
refurbished in the 1990s, lots of the
arcade’s original quirks remain. At
the northern end there’s an unusual
mechanical clock made with four
life-sized characters from Ivanhoe
by Sir Walter Scott, including Robin
Hood and Gurth the Swineherd.
Stick around until the clock strikes
the hour, and you’ll see Friar Tuck
punching half-heartedly at the main
bell in the middle.
LEEDS
https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.787215,-1.528473&spn=0.036712,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=6&iwloc=0004d6c93119f343efa1fhttp://www.leeds.gov.uk/thwaitemillshttps://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.811295,-1.536627&spn=0.036691,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=1&iwloc=0004d6c92b14d847082dbhttps://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.811295,-1.536627&spn=0.036691,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=1&iwloc=0004d6c92b14d847082dbhttp://www.leeds.gov.uk/thwaitemillshttps://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.787215,-1.528473&spn=0.036712,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=6&iwloc=0004d6c93119f343efa1f
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8/19/2019 Hidden Gems Leeds
7/7
LEEDS 13
42 The Calls42 The Calls LS2 7EW Gmap T 0113 244 0099 Wwww.42thecalls.co.uk
P doubles from £150
If you want to stay in the middle
of Leeds and would rather avoid
bland chain hotels, 42 The Calls is a
fairly safe bet. On a cobbled street
near Leeds Minster, this eighteenth-
century building by the River Aire
once operated as a corn mill. Then, in
1991, developers transformed it into a
waterfront hotel. Thankfully, a lot of the
original features were retained; look
upwards in some of the rooms and
you’ll see rustic pulleys and machine
parts hanging from the ceiling. The
corridors display grainy photographs
showing how the building looked
before renovations began, giving
a sense of how much work was
involved in the transformation.
The 41 rooms all have their own
personalities, so ask whether you can
see a couple of different ones when
you check in. Comfort levels are
consistently high though, with huge
beds, spongy-soft scatter cushions
and cute extras left on the duvet by
the cleaners: little boxes of Smarties,
for example. Special privacy hatches
with locks on both sides allow staff
to bring newspapers and breakfast
without disturbing guests. Eating in
the restaurant downstairs is by no
means a chore though; the buffet is
well stocked, and the tables look right
out across the river.
first transPennineTip
You’ll be set for the day
after a hearty breakfast
at 42 The Calls, which
includes: 12 varietiesof sausages, kippers,
homemade jams,
marmalades, waffles
and pastries, hmmm.
restored Georgian home at the front
of the complex. Kids will probably be
just as interested in the narrowboats
that chug past on the adjacent canal,
and the birds and butterflies that
flutter through the surrounding
gardens; kingfishers are a common
sight. If you fancy a really green day
out, it’s possible to combine a visit
with a walk along part of the Trans
Pennine Trail (www.transpenninetrail.
org.uk ), which runs close to the mill.
A ROUGH GUIDE12
CreditsAuthor: Steve Vickers
Editing and Picture research: Ian Blenkinsop
Design & layout: Anthony Limerick and Ann
Cannings
Project manager: Ian Blenkinsop
Account manager (First TransPennine):
Caroline Anchor
Account manager (Rough Guides): Michael
Stanfield
For this edition:
Factcheckers: Keith Munro, Steve Vickers
Senior editor: Ros Walford
Senior prepress designer: Daniel May
Senior digital producer Sean Daly
First published 2013
This second edition published May 2014 by
Rough Guides Ltd, 80 Strand, LondonWC2R 0RL
© Rough Guides Ltd, 2013
ISBN 978-0-2411-8326-7
The publishers and authors have done their
best to ensure the accuracy and currency
of all the information contained in Rough
Guides’ Hidden Gems: Leeds, however, they can
accept no responsibility for any loss, injury
or inconvenience sustained as a result of
information or advice contained in the guide.
Picture creditsAll illustrations are © First TransPennine Express.
All photography is © Rough Guides except forthe following:
UpStaged © UpStaged; Red’s True BBQ © Red’s/
James Douglas; Hyde Park Picture House © Tony
O’Connell; Thackray Museum © Thackray Medical
Museum; Thornton’s Arcade © Peter Richardson/
Robert Harding World Imagery/Corbis; Thwaite
Mills © Sarah Zagni for Leeds Museums and
Galleries/Creative Commons BY NC SA; 42 The
Calls © 42 The Calls.
https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.804148,-1.537228&spn=0.036697,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=6&iwloc=0004d6c8fbd4b60f8d366http://www.42thecalls.co.uk/http://www.42thecalls.co.uk/http://www.transpenninetrail.org.uk/http://www.transpenninetrail.org.uk/http://www.transpenninetrail.org.uk/http://www.transpenninetrail.org.uk/http://www.42thecalls.co.uk/http://www.42thecalls.co.uk/https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=200995833704269317792.0004d6c8fbd3294dc251c&ie=UTF8&ll=53.804148,-1.537228&spn=0.036697,0.111494&t=m&z=14&vpsrc=6&iwloc=0004d6c8fbd4b60f8d366