from the canyons to the casinos –

do sin city without the hangover...

WH Chief Sub editor Alison Turner, 36, SeekS out Some highS of the natural kind in the moSt deCadent deStination in ameriCa

Las Vegas is one of those places you have to see before you die, just to make sure it really exists. It’s where you can find every deadly sin – not just permitted but individually catered for. All vices have an outlet; each desire can be sated. And this den of iniquity is open 24-7, lit by a million flashing, fossil fuel-emitting lights. You couldn’t find a less suitable place for a girl from Women’s Health.

But Vegas is built for pleasure, and with so many opportunities to get your kicks, I’m sure that if I look hard enough I’ll be able to find a way to hit a natural high...

I start livin’ it large the moment I arrive – being picked up from the airport by a huge dude wearing a black suit and driving a black Hummersine, complete with maroon leather seats and stereo speakers large enough to pump a Metallica gig. A big thumbs down for the planet, but I feel like a celebrity, which gives me a buzz. High number one, and I’ve only been here five minutes.

When we reach the centre of town I discover just how small Vegas proper actually is – the notorious Strip is a mere

and go without having to set foot in the gambling area. The complex also has more than just a cursory nod to the environment, boasting a gold certification from the US Green Building Council. My rooms is super hi-tech – when I walk in for the first time a computerised voice welcomes me and automatically opens the blinds, revealing another jaw-dropping sight – Vegas at night time. I drop my bags and scream.

Up, Up and awayThe next few days are a whirlwind of highs. First up is a helicopter ride over the Grand Canyon. Unless you’ve seen this massive wonder of the world you really can’t imagine the stupendous magnitude of it. During take-off the pilot plays Danger Zone from Top Gun, which sounds totally naff, but sitting there next to the pilot, feeling the extraordinary sensation of lifting effortlessly off the ground in a multi-million dollar piece of machinery, gives me goosebumps.

The remarkable rocky surrounds of this desert environment are laid out for me again when I embark on a 4WD tour of Red Rock Canyon. It’s like being on Mars – everything is monstrous and red, with strange little green cacti sprouting out of otherwise barren ground. The tour guide lets us loose on this alien landscape, and

6.1km. But it’s crammed full of mega-casino after mega-casino, a giant pyramid, a replica Eiffel Tower and super-sized billboards promoting the innumerable Cirque du Soleil shows on offer. But while the space is minimal, that’s the only thing here that is. The place just screams excess – it’s gaudy, it’s brash, it’s loud… it’s Vegas, baby.

As we cruise past the casinos that line the Strip – each one more OTT than the last – I shudder to think what my accommodation will be like. But when we pull into Aria Resort & Casino, my jaw drops in delight rather than the expected horror. It’s beautiful. And hu-uge. High number two...

vast resortAria is a new generation of casino complexes that aims to be more than just a place for gamblers and drunk guys on their bucks’ weekend. It has everything – a gym and spa; endless restaurants, bars and cafes; a theatre, stunning architecture and an intriguing collection of contemporary artworks (one is made out of canoes – see over the page); and a huge mall filled with high-end designer shops tailor-made for hours of drool-inducing window shopping – bags, shoes, diamonds... I’m losing count of my highs already. Of course there is a big gambling floor, but Aria is designed so you can actually come

130 yahoo7.CoM.aU/woMenshealth July 2010

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high fidelity

travel

July 2010 woMen’s health 131

travel

The Strip comes alive at night; and ( left) Red Rock Canyon soars.

Facts on Las Vegas

More than 37.5 million

people visit Vegas each year.

It’s home to 17 of

america’s 20 biggest hotels.

an average of 315 couples

get married in Vegas each day.

elvis Presley performed

837 consecutive sold-out shows at the las Vegas hilton.

the highest pokie

machine jackpot ever won was Us$39,713,982.25For information on travelling to Vegas, head to visitlasvegas. com.au.

Nancy Rubins’ “Big Edge”

in Vegas, and food here is an art. I dine at Alex at Wynn (chef Alessandro Stratta has two Michelin stars) and Joël Robuchon at MGM Grand (three Michelin stars), and the food here is suitably gob-smacking. I order the degustation menu at both: titillating tasting plates of innovative creations – from Waygu beef with parsnip custard to sea urchin with spiced carrot fondant. Everything is lean and fresh, created by a skilled artisan who has taken each ingredient’s individual attributes and works to bring out their finest qualities. Each dish is brought to the table with an attentive maître d’, who describes in detail every element of the gastronomic miracle in front of me: its background, its inspiration and its intent. He’s tag-teamed by a serious

sommelier who matches each dish with a carefully selected wine that transcends the whole taste experience to a heady new level.

Vegas is a much written-about town, but I’m no Hunter S Thompson. I’m lost for adjectives – none of them seem big enough. It’s a place you need to see for yourself to comprehend and experience the countless natural highs on offer. It’s all a bit surreal – once I leave I have to convince myself that it wasn’t just a crazy dream. Or wait, maybe it was? wh

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the City bArcelonA, spAinthe city that really doesn’t sleep (go out

before 10pm? Pah!) has far more than its fair share of culture: Gaudi architecture,

Picasso and Miró museums, amazing restaurants and the winding lanes of the

Barri Gotic to explore. Plus the beach.

the City VAncouVer, cAnAdAall the attractions of a north american

city – restaurants, shopping and culture galore. the difference: on clear days, you

can see through the skyscrapers to the mountains beyond. stunning. It’s friendly,

and they sure can throw a good party.

the benefitS monTserrAT Just over an hour away by train is the towering abbey of Monsterrat. Get there by cable car (it’s that high), then to go even further, take a funicular from the abbey to the top of the mountain to hike around the bizarro rock formations.

the benefitS snowboArd or ski AT Grouse mounTAin It’s about a 30-40 minute drive from downtown Vancouver to this wintery playground. Going there in summer? try hiking the Grouse Grind – 2.9km of steep track going to the top of the mountain.

60 MIns from city to monks

40 MIns from city to snow

Cities with benefitswant the “bright lights, big city” thing with a bit of wilderness thrown in? say no more...

WHL15279_Senso_third_0710.indd 11 5/05/10 1:09 PM

I clamber up rocks and slide down slopes like a hyper kid in a new-found playground.

While the daytime pursuits are awesome, it’s nightlife that Vegas does best. Every casino has its own theatre, each trying to outdo the next. I watch a bunch of shows – Cirque du Soleil’s Viva Elvis is vibrant and energetic, while Human Nature (cringe!) charm the pants off the mainly 40+ female audience. But it’s La Rêve that floors me. It’s set in a giant pool in the middle of a theatre-in-the-round, and the 85-strong cast pull off insane choreography as rain falls, special effects flash and the stage moves up and down. I’m on the edge of my seat, mouth agape, for the entire time – even oblivious to the big-boobed waitresses bringing me champagne. Who needs alcohol when you’re spellbound?

OK, I do have a wee flutter. It’s Vegas! But I set myself a $50 limit. The first night I win $100 on blackjack. The next night, I lose it all. Lesson learnt. My advice is save your money for the outlet malls just outside of town.

But where this crazy town really kicks arse is in the food department. Eleven of the world’s top chefs have restaurants

Stay aria Resort & Casino (arialasvegas.com)

Do the Grand Canyon by helicopter (maverick helicopters.com)Red Rock Canyon by pink 4wD (pinkjeep.com) Ride the 329m high Big shot thrill ride on the stratosphere hotel tower.

Eat Must haves: Fountains Brunch at the Bellagio (bellagio.com); lunch at silk Road at Vdara (vdara.com); dinner at l’atelier de Joël Robuchon (mgmgrand.com).

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Higher and higher