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Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Rinnai Best Practice Guide
High Wall Heat Pumps
Module 5a – Installation & Handover
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Acknowledgement: Rinnai NZ acknowledges the Energy Efficiency and Conservation Authority (EECA) for permission to reproduce content from its publication: “Good Practice Guide Heat Pump Installation”. The granting of permission to reproduce material provided by EECA in no way constitutes an endorsement of Rinnai Heat Pumps by EECA
Rinnai Learning
©Copyright Rinnai New Zealand Document title: Rinnai Heat Pumps: Module 5a Installation & Handover Issue date: 11 November 2020 Version Date: n/a Date printed: 12/11/2020 12:13 PM
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Best practice guide to Rinnai High Wall Heat Pump installation
Introduction _______________________________________________________________ 7
Installation ________________________________________________________________ 9
Toolkit _______________________________________________________________________ 10
Open and inspect the boxes: _____________________________________________________ 10
Installing the units _____________________________________________________________ 12
Building work ____________________________________________________________ 18
Installing pipework ________________________________________________________ 20
Pipework installation __________________________________________________________ 21
Pipework pre-installation in new buildings _________________________________________ 30
Self-Check #1: Piping _______________________________________________________ 33
Heat pump installation _____________________________________________________ 36
Pre-installation checklist _______________________________________________________ 36
Installing the indoor unit _______________________________________________________ 37
Installing the outdoor unit _______________________________________________________ 40
Connecting piping to indoor and outdoor units ______________________________________ 45
Connecting piping to indoor and outdoor units ______________________________________ 48
Leak/pressure test _____________________________________________________________ 51
Evacuation of the system ________________________________________________________ 53
During evacuation, complete the following: _________________________________________ 56
Self-Check #2: Installation ___________________________________________________ 58
Refrigerants ______________________________________________________________ 62
Introduction __________________________________________________________________ 62
Refrigerant charging ___________________________________________________________ 63
Labelling as record of service _____________________________________________________ 64
Electrical requirements _____________________________________________________ 65
Installing electrical wiring _______________________________________________________ 65
Outdoor unit connections _______________________________________________________ 65
Nameplate ___________________________________________________________________ 67
Testing, commissioning and customer operating instructions _______________________ 68
Pre-commissioning checks _______________________________________________________ 68
Electrical checks ______________________________________________________________ 68
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Prepare the remote control _____________________________________________________ 69
Testing the new system ________________________________________________________ 69
Instructions to the owner _______________________________________________________ 70
Checklist for using a heat pump efficiently ________________________________________ 70
Quality assurance checklist ______________________________________________________ 71
Servicing and maintenance __________________________________________________ 74
Owner maintenance ___________________________________________________________ 74
Service Technician _____________________________________________________________ 75
Module 5 – Part B __________________________________________________________ 77
Module assessment ________________________________________________________ 78
Your next module __________________________________________________________ 78
Feedback _________________________________________________________________ 78
Appendix A: Important differences for Rinnai Heat Pumps ________________________ 79
Appendix B: Making compression joints _______________________________________ 80
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Introduction
This module provides an overview of heat pumps, in particular High Wall Split
Systems and details of the Rinnai models.
Who should complete this module?
All staff of Rinnai Heat Pump Dealers or those companies wishing to be
accredited, who:
• Sell
• Design & specify
• Install
Heat Pump Accreditation programme.
This theory module supports the accreditation framework for a Salesperson,
Specifier or installer.
*depending on need to handle refrigerant
This module is in two parts:
A. This background knowledge base on Installation & Handover
B. A Q Series Installation video. (yet to be released)
Both have separate final assessments which are part of the accreditation
process. There’s detail at the end of this module.
Reference material:
You will need access to:
• Q Series Brochure
• Q Series Installation Manual:
• Q Series Operation Manual
• Q Series WIFI Operation Manual
These can be viewed or downloaded from here
Module 1:
The Rinnai Brand
Module 2:
Introduction to Heat Pumps
Module 3:
Design & Specifying
Module 5:5A
Installation & Handover(Knowledge)
5B
Installation video
Module 4:
Sales Skills
Module 6:
Installation & Handover(1-day skills course)
Module 7*:
Approved Fillers Compliance Certificate
(1-day skills course)
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Assessment
Creating great value for the customer is derived from two key parts:
1. Excellent product
2. A high standard of advice, specifying and installation of Heat Pumps.
To achieve (2) not only do we need a valid and robust accreditation process, we
(Rinnai) needs to know that you know – The specialist. Assessment is a key part
to ensuring that Rinnai and those we partner with, deliver great customer
experiences.
You will engage in assessment at two levels:
1. Self-checks
These are completed at the end of subjects and are for you to check that
you have understood the important information. The results, even if
completed on-line, are not recorded and we will never know if you finish
the self-checks!
2. Final assessment
At the end of each module you will need to complete the assessment on-
line inside our TradeSmart Learning portal. These results are tracked and
form part of the accreditation process.
The final assessment is easy! Why? It’s simple, the final assessment
questions are taken from the specific things covered in the self-checks.
Meaning that if you completed all the self-checks correctly that you should
fly through the final assessment. Easy As!
Important
This module has 2 self-checks on pages 32 & 53 and a separate final assessment for
this module and the Installation video.
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Installation
Important note about the context of this module.
This module on Installation & Handover gives you the underpinning knowledge for those new to installing Heat Pumps to prepare you for the 1-day practical workshop facilitated by Manukau Institute of Technology (MIT). Completion of this module is a pre-requisite to attending the MIT workshop. Completion of this module (#5) does not qualify or accredit you to install a Rinnai High Wall Heat Pump.
Important note about electrical wiring
This module and the Installation booklet has information on 230V wiring and connections. Any person performing electrical work must be a registered electrician. Plumbers and Gasfitters that hold an Associated Trades Electrical Licence and are registered with the EWRB cannot perform electrical work related to Heat Pumps as this is outside the scope or the Associated Trades licence. The inclusion of electrical related questions in self-checks or the final assessment does not imply that electrical work can be carried out without the necessary qualification.
Important note about handling refrigerant
Rinnai Heat Pumps are supplied pre-charged with enough refrigerant for up to 10 m of piping. Where an installer
1. needs to add refrigerant for longer lengths
2. evacuates refrigerant from an old system, or a system being repaired
3. wishes to purchase refrigerant they will need a current “Approved Fillers Compliance Certificate”
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Toolkit
Installers will need the following equipment and materials:
Equipment
• Brazing equipment
• Set of standard hand tools
• Pipe benders - Always use for pipes greater than 3/8" (9.5 mm)
• De-burring tool
• Swaging set / Expander tool
• R410/R32 designed Flaring tool Kit
• Wrenches
• 5 mm Allen / hex key
• Torque wrenches
• Pipe cutters
• Digital thermometer
• Oxygen free nitrogen gas cylinder with pressure gauge and manifold valve and
flexible clear hose
• Leak testing solution (e.g. Big Blue)
• Electronic leak tester suitable for R32 gas
• Vacuum pump with backflow prevention device
• Electronic scales Typically 50 kg with 5 or 10 gram resolution
• Manifold & gauge set and hoses suitable for R32 gas. And optional Digital vacuum gauge if analogue gauges used.
• Hose adaptors if required
• Refrigerant specific valve core removal tool
• Tape measure
• Compression or locked-ring jointing tool
• Refrigerant Recovery Machine compatible with R32 Refrigerant*
• Recovery cylinder*
• Charge hose and connector
• Stud finder
• Safety glasses, gloves, ear protection, safety boots, hard hats and other PPE
*only if holding a current Fillers Cert?
Materials
• Copper pipe (Soft drawn, twin-insulated, dehydrated Pair Coil)
• Pipe protection
• 80 mm Plastic Ducting and Compatible Fittings
• Electrical cable - 4 & 5 core
• POE Oil for flared joints
• Galvanised mild steel straps 120 x 25 x 0.5 mm
• Galvanised pipe brackets 65 mm diameter
• Galvanised nails 30 mm
• Condensate drainage pipe, either smooth, hard PVC pipe (best practice option) or flexible, ribbed pipe
• PVC adhesive tape
• Electrical conduit
• R32 cylinder*
*(if holding an Approved Fillers Compliance Certificate)
Open and inspect the boxes:
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Q Series Heat Pumps are dispatched in two large cartons. Immediately upon
receipt the two boxes must be checked for damage.
In the unlikely event of external damage:
1. do not sign for the item/s and ask the delivery contractor to return the boxes to Rinnai.
2. advise Rinnai Customer Services immediately of your actions quoting the sales order number. Call 0800 746 624.
If there’s no external damage you should endorse the packing slip noting that
internal contents are yet to be checked. (if the driver requires a signature then
they can wait while the boxes are unpacked and inspected)
Damage is not always immediately evident, so you must open the boxes as soon
as possible and check:
1. The condition of items
2. That all components are included
If anything is missing or damaged, you must take
photos and notify Rinnai Customer Services. Call
0800 746 624.
Claims for missing components or damage are
unlikely to be considered if notified more than 24
hrs after delivery.
A list of carton contents is on page 7 of the Installation Manual & is summarised
below.
Note: the Wi-Fi User’s Manual is not included and will need to be downloaded from the Rinnai
www.
Carton 1 1 x indoor unit 1 x remote controller 1 x remote control wall bracket 2 x AAA batteries 1 x indoor unit support bracket 1 x condensate drainpipe 1 x Operations manual 1 x Installation manual 1 x Energy label
Carton 2 1 x outdoor unit 4 x rubber vibration dampers 1 x condensate drain fitting 2 x flare nuts – small 2 x flare nuts – large 1 x plastic flange 1 x fabric tape 1 x putty
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Installing the units (this segment is a refresher on content in Module 3: Design & Specifying)
Correct location of both outdoor and indoor units is essential for optimum
performance. Many problems with poorly performing heat pumps are due to poor
location of units.
Outdoor units
Locate outdoor units: (ODU)
• to allow unimpeded air flow around the unit (to avoid the creation of a
microclimate that reduces heat pump performance and efficiency)
• in accordance with Rinnai
Installation instructions for
distances to obstructions as
follows.
o 100 mm to the wall
o 1000 mm between air outlet
and the nearest wall
o 600 mm above the unit
o 300 mm to other faces
• In addition to the installation instructions, it is recommended to mount the
unit on purpose built mounting rails. This is to secure the unit against
movement and to allow room for the condensate drain fitting to be
installed and maintained easily. The gap under the ODU must be at least
80 mm
• If the unit cannot be mounted securely on a flat surface e.g. where it is in a
garden or partly over a path etc, then a sturdy pad must be provided. This
can be:
o Pavers: a minimum of 40 mm thick
o Purpose built concrete slab. A precast slab should be 50 mm or
greater with a thickened edge
o Polyslab® (see accessories section)
• to minimise refrigerant pipe run lengths and bends
• to give minimum pipe runs in accordance with Rinnai Installation
instructions of 2 metres
• where condensate can easily be drained away
• to allow access for service (minimum 300 mm)
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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• where any blockage (such as from leaves or snow) is quickly seen and
can be cleared away
• to be protected from the sea spray in
coastal areas, sheltered from strong wind
• where condensate can be appropriately
drained away condensation is usually
produced during heating and must be able to
be drained safely.
• in a well-ventilated area, and at a safe
distance from any gas sources or appliances:
o 1.5 m clearance from an exchange
LPG bottle (i.e. gas cylinders that
get swapped and refilled offsite).
o 3.5 m clearance from an in-situ fill
LPG bottle (i.e. gas cylinders that
get refilled by tanker onsite)
o 0.5 m clearance from a gas water
heater e.g. Rinnai Infinity or gas
stored cylinder
o Within space 0.5 m above from any
cylinder valve, extending 1.5 m
laterally at the base of the cylinder.
NOTES:
• DO NOT locate ODU where noise can cause a disturbance to home
occupants or to neighbours
• DO NOT locate ODU in the attic or under a deck, or any location that may
impede airflow, only install where there is ample space and clearance
• DO NOT locate ODU so that multiple units are competing against each
other for air flow
• DO NOT locate where the air outlet is directed to where people pass, such
as across an accessway or path
• DO NOT locate the outdoor unit on a balcony or deck that is more than 1
m above a surface below in a way that facilitates climbing over the
balustrades or railings. Any screen around the outdoor unit must not
facilitate climbing and must not include toe holes.
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Avoid noise disturbance
Locate the ODU where noise from the unit cannot transmit to and disturb the
home occupant or adjacent properties. Do not install the outdoor unit under or
close to bedroom windows. Comply with council bylaws regarding permitted
noise levels at the property boundary.
There are several ways to reduce sound transmission:
• Locate the unit where a fence
or solid barrier can block
sound so that the line of sight
between source and receiver
is blocked
• At the same time avoid
reflected sound transmission
– consider the reverberation
effects of lightweight materials
such as corrugated iron
fencing
• When mounting on wall brackets, mount the unit on isolation mounting
blocks or pads to absorb vibration. Rinnai ODU’s are supplied with 4
rubber vibration dampers
• Ensure the owner is aware of the need to carry out regular maintenance to
have worn bearings or other noisy parts replaced.
• Refer to Rinnai mounting instructions for recommended clearances to
ensure airflow around the unit.
Accessories
These 3rd party accessories are available
ODU enclosures
These can be helpful in making the
system more aesthetically appealing.
However, they must not impede the
units performance and cause any
issues which may initiate a warranty
claim to be considered.
An ODU enclosure
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Wall brackets:
Mounting rails
Pad for ODU
The outdoor unit may require a purpose built pad
(see page 18)
An alternative to a concrete slab or pavers is a
Polyslab®
These cost around $45 and there are many NZ suppliers, this is just one:
https://www.hamer.co.nz/inventory/product/1007/polyslab-ac-equipment-bases
Wall brackets for brick / masonry
Wall brackets for timber walls where the horizontal bar can align to studs
Welded wall brackets
Polyslab®. The middle size is ideal for the ODU
Polyslab® in use
Mounting rails
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Indoor units
Locate indoor units:
• on an external wall if possible
• to avoid directing airflow onto seating locations or electronic equipment
• to direct airflow to the coldest point in the room (but not towards a window)
• appropriately for room layout and airflow patterns
• in accordance with Rinnai's recommendations for minimum clearances –
in the diagram on the right. Clearance above the unit and to both sides
are critical.
o 150 mm minimum to ceiling
o 150 mm minimum to each
side
o 1000 mm in front
o The downwards clearance
should be as reasonable as
possible to enable the unit to
function correctly and will be
in the range of 1800 mm*.
• to minimise refrigerant pipe run lengths and bends
• so that the condensate drainage pipe can drain to outside without the
need for a condensate pump.
*for ceiling heights of 2.4 m
Use of condensate pumps
Condensate pumps (an example on the right) may be
required where the condensate needs to be lifted from
the location of the IDU for any reason. While it is
better to avoid their use due to additional complexity,
they are often required where heat pumps are
mounted on internal walls or in basements. Including
a condensate pump in an install will increase the cost
of the installation.
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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NOTES:
• DO NOT locate IDU in a tight corner or space where airflow can short
circuit
• DO NOT locate IDU behind a grille
• DO NOT locate IDU so it directs air to a primary source of heat gain or
loss, such as directly on to windows
• DO NOT locate IDU where there may be any steam
• DO NOT locate IDU within a kitchen or near an automatic insect repellent
dispenser
• DO NOT locate IDU above or close to any heat source, including electrical
appliances, which could affect the performance or act as an ignition point.
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Building work
New building
The best time to install pipework and cables in a
new building is when it is still under construction.
Co-ordinate with the other trades and plan the
layout and location of the system early in the
building design stage so that penetrations through
the building envelope can be made before the
cladding is installed.
• Note that the penetration through the wall
underlay has not incorporated a sleeve and
has not yet been taped off with flexible flashing
tape.
• Protect pipework and cables from being
damaged by other trades. Sleeving or plastic
inserts can be used to prevent pipes from
being kinked.
Building Code acceptable solution E2/AS1 gives guidance on making penetrations
through the wall cladding and wall underlay – a copy is available for download from
the www.building.govt.nz website.
If you make the penetration through the wall cladding system, then you are
responsible for the weathertight performance of the penetration made. You will be
liable for any non-performance due to your work.
Any drilling, notching or cutting of load-bearing and support walls to fit pipes must
be within the limits specified by NZS 3604:2011 Timber framed buildings. outlines
the maximum permitted allowances for drilling and notching a top plate may be
required.
Pre-install pipework before building claddings
are installed
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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NOTE: Notches in studs to be spaced at a min. of 600 mm apart.
Existing building
When installing units into an existing building:
• Identify the location of existing pipework, studs and cables before drilling holes or making penetrations in the building.
• Ensure any drilling, notching or cutting of load-bearing and support walls to fit pipes is within the limits specified by NZS 3604:2011 Timber framed buildings shown in the two diagrams above.
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Installing pipework
Introduction:
Except in new builds, pipework is installed after the internal unit is
fixed to the wall and the outdoor unit placed into position. These
steps are covered on pages 36 – 48.
This next section covers generic information on piping and generic
skills in handling pipework.
Important:
There are some differences to the installation parameters of the Q Series Heat
Pump. These are:
• The minimum pipe run is 2 m. Some manufacturers have shorter
lengths and many are longer.
• For the Rinnai 3.5 & 5 kW models the Pair Coil gas pipe OD are
different to many models in NZ. Refer to Appendix A
This information can also be downloaded from here:
https://rinnaitraining.co.nz/HP/QDifferences200525.pdf
Pipework
Good pipework gives a safe, efficient and reliable installation necessary for the heat
pump system to perform properly. Too many joints, bends and long lengths can
increase the risk of leaks and reduce efficiency, as it requires more energy for the
compressor to pump the refrigerant around the system.
Most system failures occur due to poor workmanship of pipework installation. To
reduce the likelihood of problems:
• Pair Coil must be clean and moisture-free
• Only use pipe sizes recommended in the Rinnai Q Series instruction manual
• Note that gas pipe sizes are different for different heat pump models.
• Plan piping runs for the shortest possible length and minimum number of
bends to limit internal friction losses
• Insulate and protect all external pipework with UV rated plastic ducting (typically 80 mm)
• Slope pipes gently back towards the outdoor unit to allow any oil in the gas
pipe to drain back to the inlet of the compressor (some compressor oil gets
pushed into the pipeline in all heat pump systems, and oil return is
compromised it may cause premature failure of the compressor)
• Install pipelines to allow for expansion and contraction
• Pair Coil must be rated for R32 (high pressure) refrigerant
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Pipework installation
Good-quality pipework involves the following steps:
1. Selecting suitable pipework and jointing
2. Ensuring pipework is clean
3. Making bends properly
4. Creating flared joints properly
5. Ensuring pipework is well-supported
6. Insulating refrigerant pipework
7. Positioning and connecting the condensate drainage pipe properly. Note on terminology:
In refrigeration the terms liquid and gas (or vapour) are used to describe the physical states of the refrigerant.
Types of pipework
Pair Coil
Pair Coil is twin piping used to connect the indoor and outdoor units.
Pair Coil is UV-rated twin-insulated and dehydrated pipe, which is easier to install in trunking and in ceiling spaces
The smaller pipe is the liquid pipe while the larger is the gas pipe.
Pair Coil is usually sold in 20 m lengths. For the Q Series, the liquid pipe size is the same across the models, however, note the 3 different sizes for the gas lines.
Details are on page 8 of the Q Series Installation Manual.
NOTE: Gas and liquid pipe sizes are different.
Twin-insulated and dehydrated pipe (Pair Coil)
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Types of jointing
There are two situations when jointing is needed:
1. When connecting Pair Coil to the indoor or outdoor units
These joints must be flared fittings as both the units are fitted with
male flared connections
2. When joining lengths of Pair Coil together
Ideally the pipe will be a continuous length between the indoor and
outdoor units, however joining is sometimes required. You can join
lengths of Pair Coil by brazing or compression (lock-ring) jointing.
Flared joints
These are used when joining the
pipework to the Outdoor Unit
(ODU) and the indoor unit
(IDU). A male flare fitting is
provided on both pipes on both
indoor and outdoor unit. Ensure
that the flares are made using an
R-32 compatible flaring tool and
following the procedure listed in
this section. All four flare joints are
to be leak tested as per the leak
testing section.
NOTE: If not done correctly, flared joints have a high risk of the refrigerant
leaking and should not be used for joining pipework together which would
often be inside a wall or under capping. For jointing Pair Coil together use
brazed or compression joints. Refer to Appendix B
Creating flared joints
Flared joints must be formed by an experienced installer, as the joints
have a high risk of the refrigerant leaking if not made correctly.
Flaring of joints is not a simple task and requires the correct tool for the
refrigerant gas being used and the pipe wall thickness.
Rinnai Q Series heat pumps use R32 or other high-pressure refrigerants
and require a specific flaring tool to cope with the refrigerant pressure and
the pipe thickness
Steps to creating flared joints are on the next page.
Female flared joints on Pair Coil
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Follow the correct steps to create a sound flared joint.
DO NOT use a saw blade to cut the pipe.
Cut pipe with tube cutters to give a cut
that is straight across and clean.
Use a sharp blade and cut slightly longer
than measured length.
Remove all burrs with a de-burr tool - point tubing downwards when doing this. Remove any metal filings that may have fallen into the pipe
Remember to remove the flare nut from
the unit and put it over the pipe end – it
is not possible to put it on after flaring
the pipe.
Insufficient tube protrusion could lead to
a joint that will come apart with vibration
and is more likely to leak.
Flare the end of the tube using the
correctly-sized flare tool and ensure
that the correct amount of pipe
protrudes.
Excess tube protrusion could stop the
flare connection sealing properly when
the nut is tightened.
1
2
3
4
5
6
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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NOTE:
DO NOT mix polyolester oil and mineral-based oil DO NOT use leak lock or PTFE tape – these are not plumbing joints DO NOT cross thread the fittings, as you may damage them.
Apply oil to the back of the flared pipe
and the flare joint. Use oil compatible
with the refrigerant before connecting
pipes, i.e. use polyolester oil (POE).
Oil reduces the possibility of tearing
the flare when the nut is tightened.
Oil must not be allowed to
contaminate the refrigerant.
Hand-fasten the flare nut to connect the
pipes
Tighten the connection using two spanners to the torque specified in the Q Series
Installation Manual – page 13. Use a torque spanner to achieve the correct torque.
Torque against the second spanner (to secure the load while tightening). Never
tighten the connection just against the joint.
7
8
9
10
11
12
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Brazed connections
Brazed joints are the usual way to join two lengths of copper pipe and will be
required when complicated pipe runs are involved, and to extend pipe runs
longer that a single length of pair coil, or where there are offcuts that need to
be used up. One of the pipes should be swaged using a swaging tool (either
a drift or an expander tool of the appropriate size). This forms a socket that
the brazing material can fill to create a strong leak-free joint.
When brazing it is good practice to have a live purge of the copper pipe using
nitrogen to eliminate any carbon deposits inside the pipe. A flow rate of 8 l/s
is optimal.
Pipe joints behind the indoor unit and in wall spaces must be brazed,
Brazed joints must be leak tested prior to commissioning.
Compression connections
Compression Joints are an alternative to brazed joints. These can be used
where it is not practical or desirable to use a brazing torch in an
installation. Compression joints are leak free when
• the compression jointing method meets the pressure requirements of
the system and
• installation is completed exactly as per the manufacturer's installation
requirements.
All compression joints must be leak tested prior to commissioning of the
system.
Detailed steps to making compression connections are provided in
Appendix B.
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Maintaining cleanliness of pipework
Ensure that all pipework is clean and suitable for the system
• Holding the pipe opening facing down when deburring
• Removing metal filings from inside pipework after deburring.
• Always keeping pipe ends covered with caps, by clamping and taping.
Covering pipe ends prevents moisture, dirt or foreign matter getting into the pipes, particularly when pushing or pulling through wall cavities.
NOTE: Do not let uncapped pipe ends touch the ground
Making bends
Bend all copper pipes over 9.5 mm or 3/8" diameter with the correct-sized pipe
bender – handmade bends will kink and /or have a reduced internal pipe
dimension, which potentially voids the warranty.
When pre-insulated pipe is used:
• Split the insulation and cut away from around the pipe.
• Bend the pipe using the correct-sized bender.
• Replace the insulation and tape together using vinyl tape or insert a copper bend using brazed connections, then insulate.
Pipe opening facing down when cutting
Cover pipe ends
Hand Tube Bender (Courtesy Yellow Jacket)
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Ensuring pipework is well-supported
Well-supported pipes help ensure the durability and performance of the system
by:
• reducing the possibility of cracking or oil traps due to sagging
• eliminating vibration
• eliminating a liquid hammer effect or damage from fluid movement
• resulting in better fluid handling characteristics.
As good practice, fix copper tubing at the spacings given in the table below.
Tubing diameter (mm)
Maximum fixing spacing (m)
< 6.5 1.0
6.5 – 20 1.5
25 2.0
32 – 40 2.5
> 50 3.0 Source: Australia and New Zealand Refrigerant Handling Code of Practice 2007 clause 5.18.
Insulating refrigerant pipework
• Ensure all refrigerant pipework is insulated to eliminate condensation and
maintain high efficiency of the heat pump system.
• Industry practice is to use a proprietary insulated pair coil, which is heat
resistant up to 100 °C.
Positioning and connecting the condensate drainage pipe
From the indoor unit
Position and connect the condensate drainage pipe from the indoor unit.
• Connect the drainage pipe to the drainage pipe outlet from the unit – if
there are two drainage outlets in the condensate tray (indoor unit), connect
the drainage pipe to the appropriate side, i.e. to suit the wall outlet
location, and insert a rubber bung into the other outlet.
• Wrap the indoor and through wall section of the drainage pipe in
polyurethane foam insulation.
• Use smooth, hard PVC-U drainage pipe if drainage pipe runs laterally –
flexible, ribbed drainage pipe can be used for vertical drainage.
• Provide sufficient fall for condensate to drain away.
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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• Run the condensate hose beneath the refrigerant line when going through the
wall, to ensure a free flow of condensate.
• Connect sections of pipe with pipe solvent – where pipe sizes must be
stepped down, connect sections with silicone sealant internally, then tape
around join with vinyl tape.
• Run the indoor drainage pipe:
▪ to the outdoor unit and drain away to the same location as the outdoor
unit condensate
▪ outdoors to drain onto lawn or garden – discharge into the stormwater
system is permitted in some areas (do not discharge into a gully trap)
• Where pipe traps are recommended by the manufacturer to reduce
negative pressure, install in accordance with the manufacturer’s
specifications.
• Do not allow the condensate outlet pipe to be immersed in water, as this
can cause an air lock and prevent water drainage under gravity.
• Use mechanical connectors (jubilee clips) to connect the hoses
• Locate indoor units suitably to avoid the need for a condensate pump.
Where unavoidable, install a condensate pump in accordance with the
manufacturer’s specification. Advise the owner of the maintenance
requirements of the pump and that it may make noise. Failure to do so will
void any claim for water damage.
NOTES: DO NOT use flexible drainage piping inside internal walls (only on external walls in some circumstances) DO NOT use flexible ribbed drainage piping for lateral pipe runs, as water may sit in the ribs or low points may occur in the pipe DO NOT use electrical conduit as a drainage pipe - only PVC plumbing / condensate pipe.
From the outdoor unit
Discharge condensate:
• into a suitable drain connection
• onto a grassed or planted area
• into a stormwater drain (where permitted by local council regulations).
NOTE: DO NOT discharge where it can run over a footpath as it may become slippery or freeze in winter.
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Summary:
• Keep bends and length to a minimum to maximise efficiency
• Correct pipe size must be used - Refer to Rinnai technical specifications
• Design pipe runs for shortest lengths, but not less than the minimum pipe
run
• Rinnai High Wall Heat Pumps must have a minimum pipe run of 2 m
• Pipework must be insulated along the entire length
• UV protect pipework with UV rated capping
• Use pipes (Pair Coil) rated for R32 pressures
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Pipework pre-installation in new buildings
In a new building, install pipework before wall linings and claddings are put on.
Procedure
• Unroll and lay out pipe and connection cable to connect indoor and
outdoor units.
• Tape pipe and connection cable together with vinyl tape at 1-1.5 m
spacings.
• Establish the location and centre of the indoor unit.
• Establish the location of the outdoor unit.
• Run taped pipe/cable across the top of
the bottom truss chord/ceiling joist
between the unit locations.
• Fix with galvanised mild steel pipe
brackets.
Indoor unit location
o Notch the top plate and studs to a maximum depth of 25 mm (for
90 x 45 mm timber) or 19 mm (for 70 x 45 mm timber) to insert
pipe/cable.
o Insert pipe/cable into notch and fix galvanised mild steel strap over
to hold securely in position. Notching and drilling must not exceed
the limits given in NZS 3604: 2011.
Protect pipe against damage caused by other trades.
Run pipe/cable across truss chord/ceiling joist
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o Wedge the pipe cable end into the stud in readiness for connection
to the indoor unit – use a lightly-fixed and wedged nail that can
easily be removed to hold the pipe/cable flat for interior lining fixing.
o Braise pipe ends, braising in a Schrader valve into one end of each
pipe.
o Once brazed, pressurise pipework
with dry nitrogen. If the pipes get
damaged, the gas escapes, alerting
other tradespeople to the fact that
they have damaged the pipe. When
you return and find the gas is gone,
then you know pipes have been
damaged.
o For floor-mounted units on internal
walls:
• fix pipe/cable in notched dwangs
• drill holes and feed the pipes through
o Feed pipes through a hole in the building wrap to outside and seal
to weatherproof around pipe.
NOTE: DO NOT cut out more timber than necessary.
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Outdoor unit location
o Notch the top plate and studs sufficiently to insert pipe/cable. See
pages 18 & 19 for limits on notching and drilling framing.
o Insert pipe/connection cable and power cable (run from meter
board) into notches and fix galvanised mild steel strap over to hold
securely in position.
o Feed pipe / cables for connection to
outdoor unit through a hole cut in building
wrap Installing a sleeve is recommended.
o Seal pipes or sleeve with flexible flashing
tape to weatherproof around pipework and
cables.
o Crimp and tape pipe ends closed to keep
moisture and debris out.
o Leave pipe/cable neatly coiled and taped.
Note that the taping off has not been
completed in the
photos on the right, nor
has a sleeve been
used as shown on
page 37.
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Self-Check #1: Piping
Check your understanding of this module.
You will need access to the Q-Series Installation Manual to complete
this self-check.
# Question Your score
1 When creating a notch in the top plate and studs for timber that is 90 x 45 mm, what is the maximum depth allowed?
15 mm 20 mm 25 mm 40 mm
2 There are three (3) types of pipe joining used when installing a Heat pump. They are Brazed, Compression and Flared. It is vital that each type of joint is used in the correct part of the piping
True False
3 Which joint connection method is to be used to connect to a Rinnai outdoor unit to the Pair Coil?
Brazed
Compression
Flared
4 Which type of joining provides the best resistance to pressure, temperature and stress vibrations and is recommended as best practice when joints will be concealed.
Brazed
Compression
Flared
5 It is vital that when preparing, cutting or connecting pipework that it is kept clean inside.
Brazing causes oxidation and carbon build up and this is mitigated by:
• Keeping the pipework on a slope down towards the cut end
• Purging with dry nitrogen
• Purging with EOS
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# Question Your score
6 When making a flare fitting on a pipe the edges of the cut end must have the both the inside and outside burrs removed. When is de-burring done?
• After the pipe is cut and before the flaring done
• After the flare is created.
7 What are the two (2) reasons why condensate should not be discharged onto a concrete footpath
• It can become slippery
• It can harm bird life
• After several year it can cause the concrete to crack
• In winter it can freeze causing a hazard
8 The maximum Pair Coil run between the IDU and ODU for the 7 kW model is:
• 10 m
• 20 m
• 25 m
• 30 m
• 40 m
9 Pipe benders must be used for bending all pipes over 9.5 mm or 3/8”. This is because bending by hand can cause an kink which creates a reduced internal dimension and can effect performance and void the warranty.
True False
10 Which type of oil must be applied to the back of the flared pipe and the flare joint?
• POE (Polyolester oil)
• OEP (Polyethylene extract)
• Tardus 101
11 What is the torque wrench setting when connecting the vapour pipe to the outdoor unit on the 5.2 kW unit?
18 Nm 42 Nm 55 Nm 75 Nm
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# Question Your score
12 Units containing R32 refrigerant require a specific flaring tool to cope with the pressure of the refrigerant and the pipe thickness.
True False
13 Pipework pre-installed into buildings must have the ends brazed closed with a Schrader valve in one end and pressurised with dry nitrogen.
Why is the pre-installed pipework pressurised with Nitrogen? (select all that apply)
• If the pipes get damaged, the gas escapes, alerting other tradespeople to the fact that they have damaged the pipe.
• Dry Nitrogen is moisture free and safe.
• Pressurised pipework over time provides a much safer installation test in accordance with the Building Act
• When you return and find the gas is gone, then you know the pipes have a leak.
Check your answers……… https://rinnaitraining.co.nz/HP/M5aSC1Ans201112.pdf
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Heat pump installation
While completing this section it may be helpful to refer to the Installation Manual.
This section covers good-quality and safe installation of Rinnai indoor and outdoor
heat pump units, connecting the units to pipework, testing the system for
pressure/leaks and evacuation of the system (which must occur after pressure
testing).
Some general rules for installing heat pump units are:follow the instructions in the
Installation Manual
• use tools and equipment appropriate for the task and in a well-maintained
condition
• ensure components are compatible
• keep the entire system is clean, free of foreign debris and dry.
Pre-installation checklist
Before installing the heat pump units, check the following:
Unit components
Check that the unit is what was specified and that model numbers match.
• Remove the unit from the packaging and check that all components are supplied.
• Check for any damaged components.
• Ensure that installation and owner manuals are supplied.
Trade co-ordination
• Confirm on-site trade co-ordination between the installer, builder (for new
construction) and the electrician (only a registered electrician can hard wire the
heat pump units).
Site safety
• Follow the Health and Safety at Work Act 2017 safety requirements for a
building site. These should include the installer:
o holding a Site Safe passport
o holding an Approved Filler Compliance Certificate
o using tools and equipment safely
o securing and storing all materials, plant and equipment safely.
• Maintain safety procedures, including electrical safety and flammable
refrigerant handling requirements, when working on an existing building.
Site safety
• Check and measure indoor and outdoor locations for available space, access
and required clearances for installation and servicing
• Check the system pipe run does not exceed maximum length and differential
height recommended by Rinnai
• Confirm the walls are able to provide fixing and support.
• Identify the location of a suitable power source
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Installing the indoor unit
Maintain clearances as given in the Rinnai Installation Manual Unit and on page 16 of this module. New building:
• Locate the pre-installed pipework.
• Have any required dwanging added. Existing building:
• Locate studs/framing on which to fix the installation plate. Plate should be located to span across two stud positions.
• Check the structural integrity of the wall.
• Insert dwanging between studs for fixing support if two studs in suitable positions are not available.
• Ensure that the installation plate is horizontal before fixing.
• Do not bend the back plate during fixing – if necessary, pack behind
• For framed walls, screw-fix the installation plate through the wall into the framing behind.
• For concrete/concrete masonry walls, bolt-fix the installation plate using anchor or screw bolts.
Drill a hole in the wall: Using a 70 mm
diameter core drill, drill a hole through the
wall to the right or left of the installation
plate, taking care not to make the hole
extend over the outer wall profile of the
indoor unit. Drill the hole with a slight
slope to the outside for drainage.
Check that the wall space is free from
electrical cables, plumbing and cross
bracings before drilling holes.
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Attach the indoor unit: Release the
tubing and drainage hose from the back
of the indoor unit ready for connection to
the pipework.
Feed the connecting cable from the
outdoor unit through the hole in the wall
and connect to the indoor unit.
Tape the tubing, drainage hose and
the connecting cable together,
ensuring that the drainage hose is on
the low side of the bundle. If you route
the drainage hose inside the room,
insulate it to prevent condensation
forming that may damage furniture or
fittings.
Lift the unit into position and feed the
taped bundle through the hole.
Attach the unit to the wall bracket.
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NOTE: DO NOT use flexible drainage hose inside existing walls unless fully accessible – if it becomes kinked, it may block and cause leakage inside the wall.
Ensure that the unit is securely seated.
Fill gaps around the pipe work in the
opening formed using a proprietary
seal.
Install cover and face plate to unit.
Confirm that all holes through the wall
lining are hidden by the installed unit.
Taped pipes, drainage pipe and
connection cable through hole.
Feed taped pipes, drainage pipe and
connection cable through the hole to
the outside. Ensure that the
condensate drain is at the bottom of
the grouped pipes and that there are
no kinks in it.
Remove tape and expose flared pipe
ends for connection to copper piping.
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Installing the outdoor unit
Install the outdoor unit so that:
• it sits level
• it cannot fall over
• the weight is fully supported to prevent sagging
• it has an unobstructed gap under it of at least 80 mm
• it will not transmit vibration
• there is a suitable clearance (80 mm) underneath to allow for a condensate drain and hosing and clearing of leaves and dirt
• fixings used are corrosion-resistant (stainless steel or Hot Dip Galvanised).
The outdoor unit can be fixed on:
• a concrete pad cast in place or a single piece pre-cast slab at least 40 mm thick
• a concrete patio or balcony
• a timber slatted deck with anti-vibration mounts
• brackets fixed to a foundation or solid block wall
• the roof where the installation has been specifically designed (engineered)
to accommodate live loads and wind forces acting on the roof, and it
incorporates anti-vibration mounts
• a specified base in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions.
Proprietary mounting systems for roofs and walls are available and should be installed
in accordance with the supplier’s instructions.
NOTES:
DO NOT fix the unit onto a waterproof deck or a membrane roofing system, as the fixings will penetrate and compromise the waterproofing. AVOID mounting the outdoor unit on a timber framed wall as it may transmit vibrations through the wall into the dwelling. Consider the occupancy use of the room behind the ODU.
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Installing an outdoor unit on a concrete pad
• Construct the pad as shown above (check construction if done by others) or
place and level a single unit 950 x 450 x 50 mm thick pre-cast concrete slab.
• Fix proprietary mounting rails,
• Securely fix the mounting rails to the concrete with Grade 316 stainless
steel masonry anchors or screw bolts, using two fixings per rail.
• Check that rails are level before tightening – pack with plastic shims as
necessary to level.
• Fix the unit to the rails and tighten fixing bolts/anchors.
Installing an outdoor unit on a concrete balcony or patio
• Fix proprietary mounting rails (where supplied) or hot-dip galvanised
mounting rails over anti-vibration mounts, at centres to suit the unit.
• Securely fix the mounting rails to the concrete with Grade 316 stainless
steel masonry anchors or screw bolts, with two fixings per rail.
• Check that rails are level before tightening – pack with plastic shims as
necessary to level.
• Fix the unit to the rails and tighten fixing bolts.
NOTE: DO NOT fix units to waterproof concrete or timber-framed decks.
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Installing an outdoor unit on a timber deck
• Fix hot-dip galvanised mounting rails into the joists with 75 mm long
stainless steel screws. Alternatively, fix the mounting rails to 190 x 45 H3.2
treated timber rails laid on flat that are screw- fixed to the decking joists with
115 mm long stainless steel screws. Provide anti-vibration mounts or pads.
Fix hot-dip galvanised mounting rails through the rails and joists with 75 mm
long stainless steel screws.
• Check that rails are level before
tightening – pack with plastic shims
as necessary to level (on right).
• Fix the unit to the rails and tighten
fixing bolts.
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Installing an outdoor unit on a foundation or wall (concrete/concrete masonry only)
• Check the structural integrity of the wall or foundation.
• Bolt-fix hot-dip, galvanised brackets or proprietary brackets to the wall or
foundation using stainless steel masonry anchors or screw bolts
Check that the brackets are level before tightening.
• Waterproof around fixings according to the material.
• Fix the unit to the brackets.
• Anti-vibration pads provided with the ODU should be used.
• Ensure the ground underneath is stable, compact and level
• Ensure clearance to ground is sufficient. Rinnai recommend a distance of
80 mm or greater under the unit
NOTE: DO NOT mount on timber-framed walls as vibration / noise transmission will become an issue.
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Installing an outdoor unit onto the roof
It is not preferred to install a heat pump onto a roof, due to noise vibration transfer,
service accessibility, exposure to elements and moisture ingress.
However, if you do, adhere to the following:
• Roof installations must be specifically designed.
• Always check and follow the instructions of the roofing system
manufacturer.
• Screw-fix A proprietary mounting system (eg Monkey Toe) into the roof
framing. If mounting on timber base, use painted H3.2 (or greater) treated
timber.
• Use anti-vibration mounts.
• Insert ethylene propylene diene M-class (EPDM) rubber washers between
the bracket and the roofing.
• Check that the brackets are level before tightening.
• Seal all fixings as for the rest of the roof fixing; for example, use EPDM or
neoprene.
• Fix the unit to the base.
NOTES:
DO NOT mount units on concrete or clay tile roofs (tiles are not strong enough
to allow mounting and the weight of the installers working on the roof)
DO NOT mount directly onto metal roofing, as roofing can act as a sound
amplifier and direct fixing may cause corrosion of the roofing
DO NOT let CCA treated (tanalised) timber come into direct contact with
galvanized steel roofing as it is not compatible.
WARNING:
When mounting the ODU on a deck or balcony that is more than
1 m above the surface below in a way that facilitates climbing
over the balustrades or railings. Any screen around the ODU
must not facilitate climbing and must not include toe holes.
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Connecting piping to indoor and outdoor units
Connection of piping to indoor and outdoor units must be done in the following order:
• Connect the piping to the indoor unit
• Fix trunking
• Connect the piping to the outdoor unit
Connect the piping to the indoor unit
• Use twin-insulated and dehydrated copper
piping.
• Cut and flare the copper pipes for
connection to the indoor unit
• Apply oil to both the flare and the indoor
unit, ensuring that the oil is compatible
with the refrigerant.
• Align and connect the pipes and tighten
the flare nut by hand.
• Tighten the flare nut connections using two spanners to the correct torque.
• Overlap the connection pipe and indoor pipe insulation.
• Bind the insulation with foam insulation tape, then follow with vinyl tape.
Bind insulation with vinyl tape
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• Connect and tape the drainage
hose to the drainage outlet.
Fix trunking
• Screw-fix proprietary trunking to the
exterior wall from the outlet to the
outdoor unit.
• Use stainless steel screws.
• Install trunking neatly in straight runs
with 90º angles, tight weather seals and
waterproof flashings.
Run horizontal trunking with a slight
downhill slope if it contains the drainage
pipe
• Fit refrigerant piping, drainage pipe
and connecting cable into trunking
• Attach trunking cover.
• Fill hole around piping with sealant
compatible with the trunking and the
cladding system.
Tape drainage hose to drainage outlet
Fix trunking neatly
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• Seal around and fit cover over
opening.
NOTE: For aesthetic reasons, minimise the use of trunking indoors
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Connecting piping to indoor and outdoor units
Criteria:
• Use twin-insulated and dehydrated copper piping.
• Use the correct Pair Coil size as it varies by Q Series model. Refer to the pipe
sizing table in the Instalaltion Manual
• Make flare joints with precision. This is vital. The main cause of refrigerant
leaks is due to defects with flaring work.
• When cutting the Pair Coil take into account the different lengths of the two
conenctions coming from the IDU
Order of work – an overview
Connection of piping to indoor and outdoor units must be done in the following order:
• Measure, cut, form and flare joints on the Pair Coil pipes
• Connect the piping to the indoor unit – hand tight
• Connect the piping to the outdoor unit – hand tight
• Then tighten both sets of joints. You must 2 spanners and one must be a
torque spanner. See torque values in Installation Manual
• Perform Dry Nitrogen Positive Pressure Holding test before fixing
trunking)
• Evacuate the piping
• While the evacuation procedure is taking place, make electrical
connections and fix trunking, including sealing and openings in the building
with Putty supplied
The procedure in detail:
Connect the piping to the indoor unit
a. The holes cut in the wall lining and the exterior cladding must at different
heights allowing for maximum fall towards the outside. It must be a minimum of
4°. In practice it is important to maximise the fall to get condensate flowing
away as soon as possible.
b. Check that the drain line has a continuous fall and that it is not kinked or
twisted. The drain line must be free of any kinks and be draining away water
quickly form the outdoor head. Incorrect drain positioning is the cause of some
many easily preventable installation problems. If the drain needs to discharge
out the left-hand side of the unit, ALWAYS move the drain connection to that
side. Do not run it horizontally behind the indoor unit with the pair coil.
c. Cut and flare the piping between the two units (refer to separate section on
cutting and connections)
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d. Remember that all unused piping must have the end capped.
e. Release the protective caps on the piping from the IDU.
This is charged with a holding charge of Nitrogen to
keep the inside of the pipes clean during transport and
installation of the IDU You will hear the gas escape.
Make sure nothing enters the piping.
f. If you do not hear the sound of the Nitrogen escaping,
then it may be that the pipework is damaged. This is very
rare, however if this happens you must perform a Dry
Nitrogen Pressure test on the IDU piping before
proceeding. There is no point proceeding until you have
confirmed the integrity of the indoor heat exchanger piping.
g. Apply refrigerant oil to the back of the flare,
ensuring that the oil is compatible with the
refrigerant. (POE). It is important to use some oil
as this prevents the pipe binding and fretting when
the nut is tightened.
h. Note some installers also
apply oil to the inside of the
flare.
i. Align and connect the pipes and tighten the flare nuts by hand.
Now make connection to the ODU
a. Bend the piping and form it along the pathway to the
connections to the ODU. The connections should come into
at an angle to match the angle of the valves on the ODU.
b. All pipe over 3/8” (9.5 mm) must be bent using pipe benders
to avoid kinks in the piping. I.e. this is all gas piping used
on Rinnai Q & Ducted heat pumps.
When piping is close to a wall, it may be easier to use
Bending Springs rather than a pipe bender.
c. Remove the brass caps off the male threads at the ODU. As these are angled
upwards ensure that no debris enters the ODU connections.
d. It is much easier to connect the lower liquid (smaller) pipe first then the gas pipe
e. Connect pipes to ODU connections and hand tighten
f. Next check the piping is well formed against the wall and that the piping coming
into at an angle to match the angle of the valves on the ODU.
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Tighten connections:
a. Next, make the 4 sets of flare connections
b. If you did not apply the POE oil to the flare
connections when hand tightening them,
undo the nut and apply the oil now.
c. NEVER complete tightening of the flare nuts
without first applying the oil.
d. Tighten both sets of flare connections using
two spanners. The one on the nut must be
a torque spanner. Set the torque spanner
to the values in the installation manual.
Note torque settings are different for each of
the 3 different gas pipe sizes on the 5 Q
Series models.
e. Do not tidy piping insulation or fit trunking at this stage until the Positive
Pressure Holding test is complete.
.
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Leak/pressure test
Purpose of the Positive Pressure Holding test:
It is important to perform a positive pressure holding test of any connections
including brazed connections where pipework has been extended.
This test is a Rinnai NZ requirement.
Warning:
If a positive pressure test is not performed and the system leaks R32 refrigerant
when charged, it will:
Create hazard as the R32 is flammable.
Delay installation as you will need to:
1. Recover the remaining refrigerant
2. Find the source of the leak and remediate
3. Recharge the system with refrigerant (do you have the refrigerant
available?)
4. Do you have the Approved Fillers Licence?
The Dry Nitrogen Positive Pressure Holding Test is an installation requirement and the
results must be recorded on the Commissioning checklist.
Equipment needed for the holding test:
1. Cylinder of dry nitrogen
2. Valve set and gauges
3. R410A / R32 rated hoses with 5/16” connections.
Procedure
1. Remove the service port valve cap from the gas valve on the outdoor unit
2. Use only dry nitrogen. Do not Nitrogen with any oxygen content. Any oxygen
introduced into a system during pressure testing can be extremely dangerous
and can cause a large explosion.
3. Connect the Nitrogen gas regulator directly to the service port valve. It will
require a hose with a 5/16" flare connection. (and a Schrader depressor
fitting)
4. Connect the nitrogen gas regulator directly to the service port valve. It will
require a hose with a 1/4" Female Flare fitting on one end and a 5/16" flare
fitting on the other end.
5. Pressurise the system to greater than 400 psi (2760 kPa). But do not exceed
500 psi / 3450 kPa
6. Turn off the Nitrogen supply and note the exact pressure reading
7. There are 2 easy ways of determining if the pipework is sound: Rinnai
recommends you perform both:
i. Test #1:
Test all joints by using a bubble test solution (e.g. Big Blue, Bubble Leak
Detector). If using electronic testing, a trace gas must be added to the nitrogen.
Electronic testing can be unreliable in windy conditions. Remember, keep the
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leak solution off your skin. (refer to the SDS)
ii. Test #2:
A pressure drop test after at least 5 minutes – and after testing with leak
solution, release the regulator. Watch the pressure gauge for any drop-off in
pressure and allow to hold for at least 5 minutes. There must not be any
pressure drop for the test to be successful.
8. If a leak is found with an electronic tester, it should be verified using a bubble
test solution.
9. SAFETY NOTE: if using a product like Bluey Bubble Leak detector you should
avoid getting this on your skin & defiantly do not get this in your eyes. Refer to
SDS.
10. Be Aware:
That if a leak is very small, the system may produce a positive holding
test. The refrigerant will escape over several months.
11. Reminders:
i. Correctly performing the pipe flaring and connections are vital (you
cannot beat a brazed joint!)
ii. That all flare joints are only for use outside the walls of the building.
12. Once the test is successful:
i. Release the nitrogen regulator and disconnect the hose to the valve set.
(be careful to release the pressure in the hose slowly) Ensure that you
have released the all pressure in the HP piping.
ii. Disconnect the cylinder when the pressure has returned to normal
With piping proven to be sound, the next step is to Evacuate the piping ready for charging the system with refrigerant.
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Evacuation of the system
It is essential that you evacuate the system correctly to remove air, moisture and
any nitrogen remaining from the pressure testing.
Any air, moisture or foreign matter remaining in the system may cause:
• the pressure in the system to rise, resulting in compressor malfunction
• the operating current to rise, resulting in performance loss
• moisture to freeze and block pipework and valves
• oil sludge build-up
• corrosion of parts of the system.
Digital Vacuum Gauge
Always use a good quality (e.g. Yellow Jacket) electronic digital vacuum gauge
and manifold set to monitor the evacuation.
Vacuum Pump
Ensure as a minimum:
i. the vacuum pump is in good working order
ii. is serviced regularly
iii. has clean oil
iv. vacuum pump oil should be replaced after 5 uses or every month, whichever happens first
v. the pump is equipped with a backflow prevention device to prevent the oil in the pump flowing backwards into the refrigerant pipes (should power fail during the test) as this could cause major damage to the system.
Vacuum pump oil replacement must occur:
i. If there is moisture in the oil
ii. If it looks creamy in colour
Equipment:
The equipment must be suitable for use with R32 refrigerant.
1. Evacuation pump suitable for R32 flammable refrigerant
2. Electronic digital vacuum gauge and hoses.
3. Hoses which must have:
• isolation valve fitted at the gauge on the line to the pump
• A fitting 5/16 to ½” male to female Schrader fitting is needed for direct connection to the Service port.
Isolation valve fitted
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Important: It is not possible to get an accurate reading of the vacuum using compound Bourdon tube style gauges. An electronic vacuum gauge must be used.
Caution:
NEVER connect the vacuum gages and pump to pressurised pipework. Always
release the pressurised dry nitrogen from the piping by releasing the regulator
at the end of the Pressure test.
References:
• The methods specified in the Australia and New Zealand Refrigerant Handling
Code of Practice 2007, Section 6.
Parts 1 & 2 of this code are available on the IRHACE www here:
Equipment set-up
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Procedure
Carry out the evacuation:
• Before you start:
o Vent the residual Nitrogen pressure in the
piping before connecting any hoses from
the gauge set. This is done by gently
depressing the Shrader valve in the
service port.
1. Fit an isolation valve in the line between the
gauge and the vacuum pump, ideally immediately
at the connection to the gauges.
2. Fit a valve with 5/16 to 1/2” male to female Schrader to the end of the hose going
from the isolation valve to the service port.
3. Connect hoses between the vacuum pump and the electronic gauge.
4. Position or hang the vacuum gauge
high on the unit. It must be above the
service valves, (and as high as
possible) so that oil cannot get into the
vacuum line.
5. Ensure the isolation valve between the
gauges and the service port is closed.
6. Start the vacuum pump.
7. Slowly open the isolation valve. This must be done slowly otherwise the pump
can spit out oil.
8. Note: that if something happens, you will need to start again. The Evacuation
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pump can be equipped with a solenoid to cut off the hose lines is the pump stops
e.g. if it loses power.
9. The time taken to evacuate the piping will vary according to:
o the pump capacity
o length of the tubing
o whether the piping is new or pre-used
10. A change in vacuum will be noticeable within a minute or two of starting the
pump. At 400 microns or less, moisture is being removed from the piping. Read
the gauge for a pressure reading to check evacuation
11. Evacuate to between 200 – 400 microns. New systems should be as close to
200 microns as possible. (this will depend on the gauge lines)
12. Generally, the time to evacuate the piping to 200 microns for a 10 m back to
back system will be at least 20 minutes. Longer times will be required for longer
pipe runs.
During evacuation, complete the following:
While waiting for the pipework to be evacuated, you can:
1. Complete insulating the pipework between the IDU and ODU
2. Position the condensate drain from the IDU
3. Fit the trunking and seal gaps in the exterior of the building with the putty supplied
4. Complete the electrical connections at the ODU (refer to installation manual)
Continuing with Evac Test…..
13. When 400 microns or lower is reached, (down to 200 is even better) do not turn
the pump off yet, close the isolation valve between the vacuum gauge and the
pump
14. Then turn the vacuum pump off
15. There are several tests to be done:
i. Take a note of the vacuum gauge reading
▪ Be aware that the vacuum reading will rise. What is important is, how
far it rises to and at what pressure it stabilises at
▪ Observe the vacuum gage reading for 5 minutes and note the following:
a. If between 500 -1500 microns = indicates the last of the moisture
is being extracted You can continue to evacuate to ensure all the
moisture is removed.
b. Up to 2000 microns generally there is no leak.
c. The gauge should not rise above 2000 microns - if it does, it may
indicate:
• faulty seals on the hoses/gauges
• LEAK
If after turning the pump off, the vacuum holds at 500 microns or lower, you can charge the system with refrigerant. (See “Charge the system” on the next page)
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16. DO NOT remove the vacuum hose lines, as this will allow the evacuated pipes to
fill with air at atmospheric pressure. Keep gauges attached and turned on.
You are now ready to break the vacuum & charge the system with refrigerant
Charge the system:
1. Remove the brass caps covering the
refrigerant release screws for the liquid
and gas lines
2. Use a 5 mm hex spanner / Allen key
3. Break the vacuum by slowly by opening
the liquid service valve for just a second
or two and close it again - there will be a
hiss as the pressure inside the pipework
goes positive. Watch the gauges and
briefly release the refrigerant several times allowing the piping to become
pressurised.
4. Fully open both liquid and gas service valves
5. Remove the evacuation hose and replace the caps for this both liquid and gas
valve caps. Tighten using an adjustable wrench.
6. If a valve cap cannot be finger-tightened first, do not force- tighten it, as this may
strip the thread. Instead, remove and refit the cap. Securely fasten the caps to
prevent refrigerant leakage from the system.
7. Leak test the service valve and the 2 caps on the vapour and gas valves with
bubble solution to confirm there are no leaks.
8. Perform this test again when the unit is
running with higher pressure in the pipes.
The system is now ready to commission
once the electrical wiring and the pipework
trunking is complete.
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Self-Check #2: Installation
Check your understanding of the topics so far.
# Question Your score
1 On the interior wall what is the diameter of the hole that is to be
drilled?
46 mm 55 mm 65 mm 70 mm
2 The hole drilled in the exterior wall must be:
• Slightly angled down to the inside
• Slightly angled down to the outside
• Level
3 When taping together the tubing, drainage hose and connecting
cable together prior to lifting the indoor unit into place, which of
the three must be on the low side of the bundle?
Condensate drainage hose
Electrical cable
Tubing
4 Never use flexible drainage hose inside existing walls because it
could become kinked creating a blockage and resulting in leakage
within the wall cavity
True
False
5 If the ODU is being fixed to a concrete pad and the pad is at least
50 mm thick, proprietary mounting rails are not needed.
True
False
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# Question Your score
6 Pipe lengths and elevations are specified in the installation manual.
What is the maximum vertical height for the 7 kW Q Series model?
12 m 16 m 20 m 25 m
7 What is the maximum pipe run between the IDU and ODU for a 5.2 kW model?
20 m 30 m 40 m
8 When connecting flare joints, it is good practice to hand tighten first, then after ensuring the pipes will fit neatly into trunking, tighten connections with a Torque spanner.
True False
9 What is the torque wrench setting when connecting the gas pipe to the outdoor unit on the 5.2 kW unit?
18 Nm 42 Nm 55 Nm 75 Nm
10 It is good practice (and a Rinnai requirement) to perform a dry
nitrogen positive pressure holding test (PPHT) after completion of
pipework installation.
Is the pressure test performed using the R32 refrigerant in the system?
Yes
No
11 When performing the dry nitrogen positive pressure holding test
(PPHT), what is the minimum pressure pipework must be charged
to?
• 250 psi • 400 psi • 475 psi • 500 psi
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# Question Your score
12 There are two parts to the PPHT.
(1) Testing for leaks
(2) A timed pressure drop test
What are the success criteria for this pressure drop test?
• Hold for 3 minutes / <10% drop
• Hold for 3 minutes / no pressure drop
• Hold for 5 minutes / <10% drop
• Hold for 5 minutes / no pressure drop
• Hold for 10 minutes / <10% drop
• Hold for 10 minutes / no pressure drop
13 It is essential the system is evacuated to remove air, moisture and
any nitrogen remaining from pressure testing.
Any air, moisture or foreign matter remaining in the system may cause: (select the four (4) correct responses)
• the pressure in the system to rise, resulting in compressor malfunction
• the pressure in the system to drop, resulting in loss of performance
• the operating current to rise, resulting in performance loss
• the operating current to drop, resulting in compressor malfunction
• oil sludge build-up • production of acid, leading to corrosion of parts of the
system.
14 Why is it not recommended to use bourdon type gauges for the
evacuation process?
• Because they are not accurate enough • Because if the glass covers on the gauges breaks it
will leak oil • The gauges cannot be accurately calibrated every 2
years that the standard requires
15 When evacuating the system, where must the gauges be
positioned?
• Below the pump • Level with the service valve • As high as possible above the pump • It doesn’t matter where they are positioned
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# Question Your score
16 What is the minimum vacuum that must be reached?
• 500 microns, but closer to 300 microns is better
• 400 microns, but closer to 200 microns is better
• 300 microns, but closer to 100 microns is better
• 200 microns, but closer to 400 microns is better
17 After charging the system with refrigerant, the brass caps must be
put back onto the vapour and liquid valves and the service valve
and tightened.
Is it necessary to twice check that refrigerant is not leaking?
• Yes • No
Check your answers……… https://rinnaitraining.co.nz/HP/M5aSC2Ans201112.pdf
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Refrigerants
Introduction This section is a basic overview on the refrigerant used in Rinnai Heat Pumps as
well as background information.
A number of different heat pump refrigerants have been used over the years and
all have some degree of impact to the environment.
It is important to minimise refrigerant leaks because they can increase
greenhouse gases emissions and present health and safety risks.
Early refrigerants used were chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), and
hydrochlorofluorocarbon (HCFCs) but the ozone-depleting nature of these
compounds has led to them being phased out. These have been placed with
hydrofluorocarbon (HFC) compounds.
Hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs) such as R410A and R32 are currently widely used in
refrigeration and air conditioning systems. However, HFCs are greenhouse gases
with high global warming potential. A worldwide phase down of HFCs is being
implemented from 2019 with a target of 21% of baseline (2015) usage by 2030.
The switch from HFCs to more environmentally acceptable alternatives will help
combat climate change, but will also present increased risks to health and safety
in some circumstances because of the higher toxicity, flammability or pressure of
common alternatives.
When purchasing a heat pump, ensure you understand which refrigerant is
suitable for the system. The installation and technical guide supplied by the
manufacturer will provide this information and must be observed at all times.
NOTE:
DO NOT use the incorrect refrigerant in a heat pump as this voids the warranty
and will damage the heat pump.
Australia and New Zealand Refrigerant Handling Code of Practice
Parts 1 & 2 of this code are available on the IRHACE www here:
Fluorocarbon Refrigerants
Compliance with the Australia and New Zealand Refrigerant Handling Code of
Practice 2007 is mandatory for the handling of fluorocarbon refrigerants by
anyone holding a refrigerant handling license or refrigerant trading authorisation.
The Code of Practice is in two parts:
1. Part 1 covers self-contained low charge systems that do not require any
work on the refrigeration circuit to install and contain less than 2 kilograms
of fluorocarbon refrigerant.
2. Part 2 covers all other stationary and transport refrigeration and air
conditioning systems. (this applies to Rinnai High Wall Heat Pumps)
Essential requirements of the code are that:
1. heat pump systems must be able to be installed, operated, serviced and
decommissioned without loss of refrigerant
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2. heat pump systems must be installed by an appropriately qualified person
with Approved Filler Compliance Certificate for refrigerant handling.
3. refrigerant must not be intentionally released into the atmosphere but
must be recovered into a refrigerant recovery cylinder. Releasing
refrigerants into the atmosphere can incur hefty fines.
NOTES:
• ALWAYS check the label on the outdoor unit for the correct refrigerant to
be used
• ENSURE you have the required certifications to carry out the work, OR if the
heat pump is being installed by a third party, confirm with Rinnai to ensure the
installer is suitably qualified
• NEVER use an unqualified, uncertified installer.
Refrigerant charging
The Rinnai outdoor unit is factory-charged with sufficient refrigerant to allow for
the indoor unit and a specific pipe run. Rinnai Q Series High Wall heat pumps are
pre-charged with enough refrigerant to allow for a 10-metre pipe run.
You will need to add extra refrigerant to a Rinnai Q Series heat pump where pipe
runs exceed 10 metres.
You must carry out refrigerant charging in accordance with AS/NZS 5149:2016
Part 4 Operation, maintenance, repair and recovery.
Procedure
1. Only use virgin R-32 refrigerant for charging
2. Measure the additional pipe run length
3. Accurately calculate the amount of refrigerant required according to
the Rinnai installation manual
4. Measure the required amount of refrigerant (where additional charge is
required) by mass, using electronic scales
5. Keep the charge lines as short as possible
6. Leak test the pipework before charging, by partially opening, then
closing the cylinder valve to pressurise the connecting pipework
7. Charge using liquid refrigerant from the cylinder
8. Check for leaks using the bubble test solution
9. Ensure that the cylinder and unit are at the same height to prevent
gravity transfer of the refrigerant
NOTES:
• DO NOT release refrigerant into the atmosphere. Releasing refrigerants
into the atmosphere can incur hefty fines
• DO NOT use ultraviolet dye
• DO NOT use reclaimed refrigerant to add additional charge unless it has been
recovered from the same system.
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Labelling as record of service
You must label any system that is charged with refrigerant or lubricant.
Label compressors, systems and liquid refrigerant pumps in accordance
with AS/NZS 5149.2: 2016 clause 4.5 marking and documentation.
Place a permanent label on the outer side of unit that
identifies:
• refrigerant type
• date of service
• lubricant type
• refrigerant charge (total including any additional charge).
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Electrical requirements
This section covers electrical requirements for heat pump installations.
All electrical terminations must be carried out by a registered electrician. An Electrical
Certificate of Compliance (CoC) must be issued on completion.
Electrical work must be carried out in accordance with the Electricity Act, Electricity
(Safety) Regulations, including the cited edition of AS/NZS 3000 Electrical
installations (known as the Australian/New Zealand Wiring Rules).
Important:
There are differences between some Rinnai models and common models in the
market relating to electrical wiring. These are:
• the 2.5, 3.5, 5.2 & 7.0 kW models use a 5-wire cable to connect the
indoor and outdoor units
• This does not apply to the 8.4 kW model which uses 4-wire cable
Refer to Appendix A
This information can also be downloaded from here:
https://rinnaitraining.co.nz/HP/QDifferences200525.pdf
Installing electrical wiring
Depending on the heat pump’s power input rating and the building’s existing
electrical installation, the heat pump may either be connected to an existing electrical
circuit with sufficient spare capacity (e.g. looped off an existing power socket), or to a
separate dedicated circuit (wired back to the main switchboard).
• Select a circuit for the main power supply.
• For installations in new buildings, use a dedicated circuit.
• Refer to the manufacturer’s specifications for:
• rated voltage
• input capacity/fuse size
• electrical cable size
• wiring diagram for electrical installation.
• All connections must be carried out by a registered electrician.
Outdoor unit connections
• Remove service cover from outdoor unit.
• Fix indoor/outdoor connecting cable correctly to the
terminal block in the outdoor unit.
• Tighten terminal screws to ensure that wires are
firmly secured.
• Connect power supply cable to terminal block in
outdoor unit.
Connect power supply cable to terminal block
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• Install a lockable isolating switch.
• Install the switch so that it can be
reached for servicing
• Attach the isolating switch to the wall
next to the heat pump.
• Do not mount the switch on the ODU
NOTE: It is an offence to mount a switch on the unit.
• Provide waterproof protection to the
connection as required, such as:
o cable gland
o flexible conduit.
• Replace service cover to outdoor unit
when all connections are completed.
Install lockable isolating switch
Install lockable isolating switch
Install lockable isolating switch
Replace service cover to outdoor unit
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NOTES:
• DO NOT connect the isolating switch to the outdoor unit. Otherwise the unit
cannot be isolated from power if removed.
• DO NOT allow contact between wiring and refrigerant pipework
• DO NOT run the main power cable and heat pump system power cable
together
• DO NOT allow electrical work to be carried out by an unlicensed
tradesperson or without an Electrical Certificate of Compliance (CoC).
Otherwise, the owner’s house insurance may be voided.
Nameplate Ensure nameplate is visible in an accessible location displaying:
• manufacturer’s name and/or trademark
• type or model designation and
serial number
• rated voltage
• rated frequency
• cooling capacity
• heating capacity
• refrigerant type (designation)
and charge
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Testing, commissioning and customer operating instructions
This section covers what you need to do once the Rinnai heat pump system is
installed. It includes what to check before it is commissioned, testing the system,
briefing the homeowner on the new system and carrying out a quality control check
once everything is completed.
For testing and commissioning, follow manufacturer’s instructions where provided;
otherwise follow the Australia and New Zealand Refrigerant Handling Code of
Practice 2007.
Pre-commissioning checks Outdoor unit – check:
• The unit is secure and correctly mounted.
• There is a clear air movement path.
• Ensure the valves are fully opened and valve caps have been replaced and
securely tightened.
Indoor unit – check:
• Unit mounting is level and secure.
• Remote control base is securely screwed to wall.
Pipework – check:
• Pipework has been correctly installed and secured.
• Pipework is correctly insulated.
Indoor unit drainage – check:
• Pour some water into the indoor unit drainage pan. Ensure that the water
flows through the outlet and drainage hose without leaking.
• If a condensate pump has been used, test this is working correctly, that it is
siphoning, and that the float switch is working correctly.
Electrical checks Wiring:
• Carry out tests required under the Electricity (Safety) Regulations, including
the cited edition of AS/NZS 3000 Electrical installations (known as the
Australian/New Zealand Wiring Rules).
• Electrical Certificate of Compliance (CoC) is obtained and a copy handed to
the owner.
Labelling:
• Ensure Switchboard fuse has been labelled appropriately
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Prepare the remote control
• Remove the battery cover.
• Insert new batteries.
• Replace cover.
Testing the new system
• Switch the system on.
• Ensure that no LED lights are on. If LED lights are on or blinking, the
installation is faulty. Refer to unit handbook to identify fault as indicated by
flashing LEDs. Then disconnect the power supply and locate and fix the
fault.
• Check the emergency operation by pressing the emergency operation on/off
switch and holding down for 3-5 seconds. This will start a test run
(continuous operation for a set period) during which the thermostat does not
work.
• Press the emergency operation on/off switch again to turn off.
• Test unit in heating and cooling mode, as described below.
Indoor unit – check:
• The fan operates at all speeds.
• There is no vibration of the unit.
• Vertical and horizontal air direction controls are operating.
• Air circulation mode (circulating air without heating/cooling) is operating.
• The unit operates to the correct heat command – use a thermometer. With
an indoor ambient air temperature of 21°C:
– for heating, an air-off coil temperature of 42°C or higher should be
achieved
– for cooling, an air-off coil temperature of 16°C or lower should be
achieved.
• The manual operation (using the switches on the indoor unit) is functioning –
for situations when the remote cannot be used.
• The auto start is functioning.
• An electronic sound can be heard by pressing the on/off button of the
remote control.
• The condensate pump (if installed) works.
• Where Required by the owner the WiFi app is downloaded and setup on to
the customers preferred device, the app is paired to the indoor unit and the
remote control is working (Refer to the Rinnai Q Series WiFi Installation
Manual for clear instructions of how to carry out this step)
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Instructions to the owner
Checklist of instructions to the owner on the use of the system:
• Demonstrate how to set the controls/different modes correctly.
• Demonstrate how to use the remote control.
• Demonstrate how to remove and clean air filters.
• Advise:
– on what to expect in extremely hot or cold conditions
– that the system will take a few minutes to warm up
• consider turning the heat pump off late at night if the noise bothers the
neighbours.
• Advise of service requirements.
• Recommend reading the operating instructions manual including the WiFi
installation and operation manual.
• Provide a service checklist.
• Provide the warranty.
Before the installer leaves
• Electrician to provide an electrical Certificate of Compliance (CoC).
• Provide a record of the system commissioning data.
• Provide contact names and numbers for after sales support
Checklist for using a heat pump efficiently
Understanding how to use a heat pump efficiently is important
information for users.
• Only heat when you need it - don't leave your heat pump on all day if you're
not there. Use the timer to turn on the heat pump shortly before you get
home and turn it off when you don’t need it.
• Set the thermostat to a healthy temperature - aim for 18ºC to 21ºC. High
thermostat settings cause high electricity use. Inadequate heating can lead
to mould growth and dampness.
• Avoid the ‘Low’ and ‘Quiet’ Fan settings during very cold weather. To get the
full heating power out of your heat pump, choose the ‘Auto’ Fan setting.
• It is normal for the heat pump to sometimes stop heating or blow out cold air
during very cold weather, while the outdoor unit defrosts. This usually only
takes a few minutes. Contact the manufacturer if you have any concerns.
• Check the filter regularly (as often as fortnightly) - this is a quick, easy job
you can do yourself. Clogged heat pump filters mean the heater uses more
power to run.
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Quality control checklist
Carry out a quality assurance check on completion of the heat pump installation.
Outdoor unit
• Is the outdoor unit secure with no likelihood of falling over?
• Is there any vibration or noise disturbance to owners and/or adjacent
properties?
• Is the area around the unit clear so there is no likelihood that the air supply
routes will become blocked?
• Has the unit been installed to provide future servicing access?
• Is all the exterior ducting neat and tidy, with all flashing and waterproofing
completed?
• Have all service covers been replaced?
• Is the unit clearly labelled?
• Have the installer’s checklists been sighted?
Indoor unit
• Is the indoor unit secure and does it not vibrate?
• Has the test run been carried out?
• Is the unit neatly installed with no pipework or ducting visible?
• Have the installer’s checklists been sighted?
Pipework
• Is the pipework appropriate for the refrigerant used in the system?
• Has a leak test been carried out?
• Was the system evacuated?
• Is the system charged to a level appropriate for the pipe length?
• Are the stop valves fully open?
• Have the installer’s checklists been sighted?
Drainage
• Is the drain hose from the indoor unit properly installed?
• Has the indoor unit drainage been tested by pouring water into the tray?
• Has the outdoor drainage pipe been directed away appropriately?
Electrical
• Does the electrical work have an electrical Certificate of Compliance?
• Has a copy of the electrical Certificate of Compliance been given to the
owner?
• Is the unit connected to a separate circuit, hard wired back to the mains
distribution board (or if connected to existing circuit, does it have sufficient
spare capacity)?
• Is there a circuit breaker in the system and has the circuit been properly
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labelled on the distribution board?
• Is the energy rating label on the unit or available for viewing?
Instructions to the owner
• Has the operation of the system been explained to the owner?
• (where applicable) Has the WiFi app been installed on the customers
preferred IOS or Android device. Have they been shown how to use the WiFi
app?
• Does the owner have the operating manual and the WiFi operation manual?
• Has the owner been advised of maintenance and servicing requirements?
• Does the indoor unit have the energy rating label applied, or available?
• Has the owner been given a copy of the warranty
Use of WiFi control
A separate manual on the downloading and use of the WiFi system is available. If it
is not included with the unit it can be downloaded from the Rinnai www.
https://rinnai.co.nz/Product/328/q-series-high-wall-heat-pumps#technical
A brief video on downloading the App and connecting to the heat pump is available
on the Rinnai YouTube channel. https://www.youtube.com/user/RinnaiNZ
Important:
Do not leave the homeowner to download & register
the App. Take them through this process and show
them how the App works.
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Servicing and maintenance
In addition to regular maintenance by the owner, a routine maintenance agreement should
be put in place. In addition, users should monitor their heat pump and call a service person
immediately if any abnormal operation is found.
Owner maintenance
Follow instructions in the Rinnai Owner’s Manual and should be referred to at the
handover. These are also available from the Rinnai website.
You may also alert the customer to a Rinnai blog on owner maintenance
here:
https://rinnai.co.nz/blog/12/maintaining-your-heat-pump-air-conditioning-system
Indoor unit
• Check air filters of the indoor unit every 2 weeks use and clean or
replace as necessary (some units will identify when filters need
cleaning or be self-cleaning). If they can be cleaned:
– remove and vacuum clean using a brush attachment then
replace, or
– wash gently with a mild detergent and warm water, and dry
before replacing.
• Check the indoor coils (if accessible) – dust gently with a soft brush to
clean.
• Check and clean condensate pan, and drain
• Clean the unit cover with a damp cloth and mild detergent as required.
• Recognise the operational sound of the heat pump – if the sound
changes, have the system checked.
• Ensure that air vents are not blocked by furniture or objects and are
free of dust.
NOTE:
DO NOT vacuum the indoor coil fins as they are easily damaged.
Outdoor unit
• Keep the area around the outdoor unit clear of garden waste and dirt.
• Remove any growth around or into the unit.
• Make sure the unit is off when cleaning. Follow manufacturer’s
instructions when turning off the power.
• Check and clean the outdoor coils as per manufacturer’s instructions
when they are dirty. In a corrosive environment cleaning may be
required as regularly as every 3 months. Do not spray the fan motor or
wires with water.
• Contact a service person at any sign of unusual sounds or operation.
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• It is recommended to have an annual servicing agreement with your
installer. Failure to maintain your heat pump to the manufacturer’s
instruction may void the warranty.
NOTE:
DO NOT spray the fan motor or wires with water.
Service Technician
Important:
This is an overview of annual servicing requirements and is not the training for
technicians to service Rinnai Heat Pumps.
You can only service a Rinnai Heat Pump if you have completed the “Heat
Pump Servicing” course and been accredited by Rinnai. This module will be
available in late 2020
Rinnai Heat Pumps should be serviced every 12 months, depending on use. Before
servicing, establish the type of refrigerant used in the system.
Q Series – R32
Indoor unit
• Inspect the filters, blower and indoor coil for dirt or obstructions. Clean these
parts with a biodegradable cleaner.
• Check the airflow.
Outdoor unit
• Clean the condenser coils as follows:
– Clear the outside of the coil of debris.
– Vacuum the coil fins using a soft bristle brush attachment – take care
to avoid bending the fins.
– Spray water from the inside to the outside of the coils to remove stuck
debris using a hose and spray gun. Do not spray the fan motor or
wires with water.
– Vacuum or remove by hand any debris remaining in the unit.
• Check coil fins for damage – if coil fins are bent, straighten using a proprietary
tool called a fin comb.
• Lubricate fan bearings if required – sealed bearing units do not
require lubricating.
• Inspect fan for damage and repair as required.
• Replace grille covers.
• Check that the condenser unit is secure and level in both
directions. If necessary, adjust the levelling feet, or make level
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with timber/plastic shims. If the unit is seriously out of level, repair
or replace the base the unit sits on.
NOTE: DO NOT spray the fan motor or wires with water.
Refrigerant
• Check the indoor unit output temperature with a digital thermometer. At an indoor ambient air temperature of 21°C:
– for heating, an air-off coil temperature of 42°C or higher should be
achieved
– for cooling, an air-off coil temperature of 16°C or lower should be
achieved.
• Check pipe joints for refrigerant leakage with bubble solution.
Electrical
• Check terminals and connections – clean and tighten if necessary.
• Check fan motors for lubrication.
• Check that all controls are operating correctly.
• Check that the thermostat is operating correctly.
• Check the voltage.
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Module 5 – Part B
The second part of this module on understanding Installation & Handover involves viewing an installation and completing the assessment. Please log into the Rinnai Learning Hub via TradeSmart and complete the short module called Heat Pump Module 5b and Assessment.
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Module assessment
To fully complete this module, you will need to complete two on-line competency
assessments.
Completing the assessments is so that you can celebrate your understanding of Installation
& Handover theory
If you have any questions about accessing the on-line Learning Portal, please call us:
0800 746 624.
Access the final assessment here: https://rinnai.co.nz/TradeSmart/
These assessments should take you about 25 minutes and you will receive your results
instantly.
Your next module
Module 6 is a day’s practical skills workshop held at Manukau Institute
of Technology’s specialist HVAC Trade Institute. The full day covers:
1. Welding safety
2. Electrical hazards
3. Adding refrigerants
4. Pre-installation
5. Installation
6. Common install faults
7. Customer handover and training
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Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Appendix A: Important differences for Rinnai Heat Pumps
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Appendix B: Making compression joints
9 steps to making a compression connection
1
Cleaning the tube end
3
Fitting insert when required to support pipe
4
Adding the ring
5
Fitting connector marking stopline
6
Applying sealant solution
7
Fitting connector
8
Compressing one connection end
2
Roughing the end surface
9
Completed compression connection
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Notes
Rinnai Heat Pumps: Installation & Handover
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Acknowledgement: Rinnai NZ acknowledges the Energy Efficiency and Conservation Authority (EECA) for permission to reproduce content from its publication: “Good Practice Guide Heat Pump Installation”. The granting of permission to reproduce material provided by EECA in no way constitutes an endorsement of Rinnai Heat Pumps by EECA