ScotlandD

iscover

WITHPULL-OUT

MAP

Experience the best of Scotland

Discover

ScotlandPULL-OUT MAP

HIGHLIGHTS

LOCAL EXPERTS

ITINERARIES

Discover

p51 Edinburghp117Glasgow

p157Stirling &NortheastScotland

p213

Skye &the Islands

p255 Inverness &the Highlands

Our promiseYou can trust our travel information because Lonely Planet authors visit the places we write about, each and every edition. We never accept freebies for positive coverage, so you can rely on us to tell it like it is.

Edinburgh Castle, Loch Ness, the Isle of Skye’s Cuillin Hills –we’ve selected the most iconic sights and incredible placesso you can enjoy the real Scotland with the minimum of fuss.

puts the streets of Edinburgh in your pocket

PULL-OUT MAP

recommend what not to miss

LOCAL EXPERTS

ITINERARIESmake planning your trip simpler than ever

reveal the must-see attractions and unbeatable experiences

HIGHLIGHTS

Experience the best of Scotland

1ST EDITIONPublished May 2011USA $22.99 UK £12.99 AUS $35.99

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Discover

Scotland1 Sights

5 Eating

6 Drinking

4 Sleeping

8 Information

ContentsI

The Best…Lists for everything from bars to wildlife – to make sure you don’t miss out

Throughout this book, we use these icons to highlight special recommendations:

These icons help you quickly identify reviews in the text and on the map:

Don’t MissA must-see – don’t go home until you’ve been there

If you like…Lesser-known alternatives to world-famous attractions

Local experts reveal their top picks and secret highlights

DetourSpecial places a little off the beaten track

This edition written and researched by

Neil WilsonAndy Symington

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p51 Edinburghp117Glasgow &Loch Lomond

p157Stirling &

Northeast Scotlandp213

Skye & the Islands

p255 Inverness &the Highlands

EdinburghHighlights ................................ 54

Edinburgh Castle

Royal Yacht Britannia

National Museum of Scotland

Palace of Holyroodhouse

Scottish Parliament Building

Rosslyn Chapel

Arthur’s Seat

Glasgow & Loch LomondHighlights .............................. 120

Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum

Burrell Collection

Mackintosh House

Glasgow Cathedral

Experiencing Glasgow’s Pubs

Culzean Castle

Stirling & Northeast ScotlandHighlights .............................. 160

Stirling Castle

Speyside Whisky Trail

St Andrews

Royal Deeside

Scone Palace

The Trossachs

Blair Castle

Skye & the IslandsHighlights ...............................216

Isle of Skye

Isles of Mull & Iona

Whale Watching

Isle of Staff a

Eilean Donan Castle

Savouring Scottish Sea-food

Hiking the Hills

Inverness & the HighlandsHighlights ..............................258

Loch Ness

Cairngorms National Park

Glen Coe

Climbing Ben Nevis

Watching Wildlife

Glen Aff ric

The Great Outdoors

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Contents

This Is Scotland .............6

Scotland Map .................8

Scotland's Top Experiences ...........10

Scotland's Top Itineraries ..............32

Month by Month ......... 42

Get Inspired ..................47

Need to Know .............. 48

Edinburgh 51Highlights ..................... 54

Best… ............................ 60

Walking Tour ................ 62Rosslyn Chapel .............93Abbotsford ................... 98

Glasgow & Loch Lomond 117Highlights ....................120

Best… ...........................124

Walking Tour ...............126

Glasgow .......................128

Loch Lomond & Around .........................150Western Shore ............ 152Alloway ........................ 153Eastern Shore .............154Culzean Castle & Country Park ............... 155

Stirling & Northeast Scotland 157Highlights ....................160

Best… ...........................166

Itineraries ....................168

Stirling .........................170

On the RoadPlan Your Trip

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Contents

The Trossachs ............. 177Aberfoyle & Around ... 177Callander ..................... 181Lochs Katrine & Achray .........................183Balquhidder & Around .........................184Killin .............................185

St Andrews ..................186Scone Palace ..............188

East Neuk of Fife .......196Crail .............................196Anstruther...................196Around Anstruther .....198Pittenweem .................199St Monans ..................200Elie & Earlsferry ........200Pitlochry ......................201Gleneagles ...................201Blair Castle ................. 204

Royal Deeside ............204Ballater ....................... 205Glamis Castle & Village ......................... 206

Braemar ..................... 206

Speyside .....................208Dufftown .................... 208Balmoral Castle ......... 209

Skye & the Islands 213Highlights ....................216

Best… .......................... 222

Orkney’s PrehistoricSites .............................278Fort Augustus ............ 279

The Cairngorms .........281Aviemore .....................281Glen Affric .................. 283Around Aviemore ...... 286Kingussie & Newtonmore .............. 287

West Highlands ................... 288Glen Coe ..................... 288Fort William .................291Around Fort William .. 297Ardgour & Ardnamurchan .......... 298Road to the Isles........300

Itineraries ................... 224

Isle of Skye ................ 226Kyleakin (Caol Acain) 228Sleat ............................ 228Eilean Donan Castle .. 229Elgol (Ealaghol) ......... 230Minginish ..................... 231Portree (Port Righ) ....231Cuillin Hills .................. 234Duirinish & Waternish ................... 235Dunvegan Castle ........ 236Trotternish .................237

Oban ............................ 239Kilmartin Glen ............ 243

Isle of Mull ................244Craignure & Around .. 246Tobermory ..................247North Mull .................. 249South Mull .................. 250

Isle of Iona ..................251Isle of Staffa ............... 253

Inverness & the Highlands 255Highlights ................... 258

Best… ..........................264

Itineraries ................... 266

Inverness .................... 268Around Inverness .......275

Loch Ness ....................276Drumnadrochit ...........277John O’Groats .............277

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Scotland Today ..........308

History .........................310

Family Travel .............. 320

Highland Culture ...... 323

Writers & Artists ........327

Flavours of Scotland ......................331

Flora & Fauna ............. 334

Golf ...............................337

Directory ....................340Accommodation ........340Activities .................... 342Business Hours ......... 342Climate ....................... 343Customs Regulations ................ 343Discount Cards .......... 343Electricity ................... 344Food ............................ 344Gay & Lesbian Travellers .................... 344Health ......................... 344Insurance ................... 345Internet Access ......... 345Legal Matters............. 346Maps ........................... 346Money ......................... 346Public Holidays .......... 347Telephone .................. 347Time ............................ 348Tourist Information ... 348Travellers with Disabilities.................. 348Visas .......................... 348Women Travellers ..... 349

Transport ....................349Getting There & Away ........................... 349Getting Around .......... 350

Behind the Scenes.... 355

Index ............................ 358

How to Use This Book .............................367

Our Writers ................. 368

Survival GuideIn Focus

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This Is Scotland

Scotland reveals its

true depth only to

those who savour it

slowly

Like a fine malt whisky, Scotland is a connoisseur’s delight. It’s an intoxicating blend of stunning scenery and sophisticated cities, of salt-tanged sea air and dark peaty waters, of wry humour and generous hospitality. It’s a land with a rich, multilayered history that reveals its true depth and complex flavours only to those who savour it slowly.

Every corner of the Scottish landscape seems steeped in the past. A deserted croft on an island shore, a moor that was once a battlefield, a cave that once sheltered Bonnie Prince Charlie. History feels very close here, lurking over your shoulder as you explore the echoing halls of ancient castles, stately homes and royal palaces.

Scotland has made a contribution to Western civilization out of all propor-tion to its size. The long list of influential Scottish scientists, philosophers, writers, explorers and inventors would fill a separate book – it was Scots who gave the world steamships, television, the telephone and countless other world-changing inventions. Oh, and golf, too. The country’s museums and art galleries are richly rewarding.

The Highlands and islands are one of Europe’s last great wildernesses. Their high peaks, wooded valleys and deep-sea lochs are a wildlife haven where you can see golden eagles soaring above the mountains and red deer foraging in the glens, spot otters frolicking along the kelp-fringed shores of Skye and watch minke whales breaching through shoals of mackerel off the coast of Mull.

Edinburgh, the festival city, is one of the world’s favourite party towns, but it’s also rich in history and culture. Glasgow offers stunning galleries, great pubs and a foot-stomping live-music scene, while Inverness combines a gorgeous riverside setting with superb dining. You could spend a lifetime savouring Scotland, but we’ve distilled it down to the quintessential experiences. Discover it your way.

The ruins of Urquhart Castle (p280), on the edge of Loch NessPHOTOGRAPHER: PATRICK HORTON

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