GOODBYE WASTE HELLO BLACK GOL

ongratulations! By choosing to compost you have joined C millions of like-minded people around the world. In fact, you can divert from landfills over 30% of your total residential waste simply by composting kitchen and yard debris! What’s more amazing is that this compostable organic matter is literally trans-

formed into “black gold” - rich or- ganic material you can use in your yard, garden, and for houseplants. i Join us and the enigmatic char-

acter, Professor Rott, as we guide you into the joy of composting. With the basic principles in this book, you too will discover that composting is both fun and relatively easy?

Page

3 What is Compost? 4 Benefits of Compost 5 Compost: Key to Nutrition

Setting Up Your System

6-7 Composting Systems 8-9 Siting Your Compost Area 9 Stockpiling Materials

Composting Basics

10-1 1 What to Compost 12 The CarbonlNitrogen Ratio 13 How to Use Activators 14 Turning Your Pile 15 Composting: A Quick

Start Guide

Paae

16-1 7 The Add-as-you-go Pile 18 The Batch Pile 19 Grass Clippings 20 Food Scraps 21 Leaves & Weeds 22 Garden Debris 23 Worm Composting

o Compost .

Nifty Information

24 Stages of Composting 25 Using Finished Compost 26-27 Questions & Answers 28 Troubleshooting Chart 29 Resources 30-31 Home Waste Management

Copyright 0 1998 by C. Forrest McDowell, PhD & Tricia Clark-McDowell 2

JUST WHAT COMPOST?

kay, maybe you’ve never actually laid eyes on this rich, dark brown or black earthy substance that some gardeners would die for, well. . st. Perhaps you’ve never inhaled its freshness, like moist earth in

spring. And what about its texture? - coarse and crumbly where all the original ingredients now look and feel about the same. Are you starting to get the picture? - this is good stuff!

you get to know finished compost, will be amazed that at one time it old food scraps, a dead philoden-

dron, or a matted pile of grass clippings or leaves that you layered fearfully into your bin The finished product won’t disgust you, it will make you feel quite proud!

kay now, don’t get too puffed-up. Sure, you did your part but don’t forget that you also enlisted the aid of billions of microbes. You

gave them housing (your compost bin) and plenty of food in the form of sugars and proteins (your yard and kitchen waste). You made sure they got adequate air and moisture. And you were kind enough to check in on them once a week or so (the walk outside did you good, right?). They did the rest - engaging in a feeding frenzy that generated so much heat that they literally ate themselves out of house and home, leaving behind in your bin, yes, you guessed it, freshly decomposed organic matter.

he fact is, decomposition happens in nature all the time: once-living materials (leaves, vegetables, fruit, plants, weeds, stems, twigs,

bugs, animals, microbes, etc.) die and decay. The remains eventually are absorbed into the soil and the nutrients are used by living roots, fungi, and other microorganisms. It takes nature 1000 years to make just one inch of humus-rich soil. Your composting efforts can consistently yield mighty fine tilth in just a fraction of the time - a few weeks to a few months! All to be used in your yard, garden, and for houseplants. What a sweet deal to cut with nature - give her your waste and get back nutrient-rich organic matter in the form of compost.

”Think of compost as an investment in the soil and plants in and around your home. The “bank is the natural environment. Your investment is

“black gold. ” The dividend is a cleaner, healthier planet. ” Professor Rott

3

our choice to compost has incredible benefits for you, your yard/ home, and the earth. The waste stream out of your home can

lessen by as much as 35% just by composting kitchen and yard waste.

9¶

Discard less garbage and pay lower garbage bills

9 Fewer costly dump-runs 9 Free soil additive and

natural fertilizer * Lower water bills wh

used as soil mulch Lessens the burden on landfills

9 You feel proud about doing your part to conserve earth’s resources You’re protecting & improving your home environment

* You gain some neighbor- hood notoriety for your

* You improve your

* Promotes weed and erosion control

9 Protects plant roots from sun and wind damage

the soil such as phosphorus, potas- sium, nitrogen, and many trace minerals, all to be released slowly over 1-2 years for optimal plant growth & health

0 A natural fertilizer that improves soil aeration, tilth, & drainage

9 Conserves water e When absorbed into loose or

sandy soils, increases water retention; aids drainage in clay or other heavy soils

0 Reduces soil diseases

eeps re ! 0 Composting is a good way to recycle yard waste such as leaves, twigs, grass clippings, most weeds, and the pathetic dead plants your spouse forgot to water. It is also a clever way to dispose of most food scraps and unwanted leftovers so that your refrigerator doesn’t become the compost bin. In your compost bin the unemployment rate is very low! 0 Composting is a means of harnessing a host of highly beneficial micro-organisms and earthworms who would otherwise be sitting around idle and unappreciated. Even barnyard manure gets them excited to work!

Professor Rott says: “Composting gives you the chance to look as if you know what you’re doing even if you don’t. That’s okay, the little guys in your compost bin will cover for you!”

4

ho would think that there is a link between well-made compost and nutrition? But there is! And every gardener who grows their own

vegetables (hopefully organically!) can attest to and taste to their produce that is indescribable. son? They have integrated nutrient-rich into their soil. Soil and compost, in a sense, bottom of the food chain, and we are at the top.

But don’t kid yourself -We are literally what we eat!

Soil & Minerals Proteins (including amino acids, Organic matter Natural fertilizers enzymes, &hormones) Sunlight Moisture Carbohydrates (including fiber, Moisture & Air Sunlight (for PhOtosynthgis) sugars, & starches) Trace minerds Cdmnt HYdrosen~ Fats (indudtng gtential fkty acids) Macronutrients IllSeCtS Microlife

Make the

here are 23 elements needed for human health that come from healthy soil and are converted by plants (along with carbon, hydrogen, and en) into food nutrients. These nutrients include amino acids, carbohy-

can lead to a lowering of enzymes in our bodies and less than optimal health. So, keep adding that compost to your garden - it‘s good for the soil and you!

Get a copy of Dr. C. Forrest McDowell & Tricia Clark-McDowell’s 28-page booklet, Gardening for Optimal Nutrition. Ordering information on page 29. 5

Composting Syste ffective composting requires choosing E some type of system. The cheapest

way is simply to throw your waste into an open-air holding-type bin constructed of pallets, wire, brick blocks, or other scrap materials. But many municipalities are now requiring regulated systems. Here is a sampling of systems you might choose from.

Before Selecting a System, A s k . . . How much waste am I generating?

Does my city allow me to compost food scraps?

What are my needs for neatness, attractiveness, & convenience?

Will the bin be of adequate volume (size) for my needs?

Can I easily “add on” to my system in the future?

Does the bin have a lid, air vents, and is it scavenger- resistant?

Can I easily remove finished , compost?

I

Professor Rott says.. “Plan your system around the 4 Rules of Composting:

* Right Ingredients * Air circulation * Consistent Moisture * Adequate Volume”

One Bin System The most popular and inexpen- sive method of composting for the average household, often made of recycled plastic or wood (or you can make your own!). Many municipalities are coordinating with manufacturers to make these available to the public. Bin is easily movable,

has a lid (some have bottoms), and is scavenger- resistant. Sizes vary. Most hold heat well. A stockpiling system makes for even faster results.

m S ._ Multi-Bin System +...

_. S a, f:

0

a! a 0

The perfect system for households generating significant waste. Stockpiled materials can be made in one bin (of any design) as a batch pile, then in another g bin when more ingredients are available. By this time, the first batch will be done!

-

Tumbler Expensive and small. However, the consistei batch pile both aerates and heats contents to finished compost in as little as 3 weeks!

A quick, inexpensive way to compost or use as a holding bin. Field fencing or rabbit wire is sturdy. Problems: little heating of

pile and susceptible to scavengers. However, keep covered with a lid and when compost is finished, just remove wire housing!

6

i t rotating of a a fast,

-. In c m ._

‘Going Natural”

t is possible that not a// your yard waste can be recycled in a compost bin -you may have too much or your bin is already full and in use.

Important alternatives (if allowed in your municipality) can be character- ized as “natural systems” - letting raw nature help out. These tech- niques especially increase worm life in your soil - that’s good, real good!

ion Also called trench composting. The basic premise is simple: BURY

R WASTE!! This can be done for kitchen waste or other yard debris. Just dig a trench 10-12” deep, throw in items, chop & mix with soil, then cover with remaining soil. In a few months the rotted materials will have been incorporated into the soil and you can plant above them.

Sheet Composting This mulching technique is useful for copious amounts of leaves,

clippings, etc. (No food wastes) Simply lay them down throughout the garden, or rototill them into the soil (late autumn is best or at

least 2 months before planting time). Mulching is critical in helping to retain soil moisture. and in erosion and/or weed control.

Definitely a worthy alternative to composting grass clippings. See page 19, “How to Compost Grass Clippings,” for more information.

This heap-like pile is generally long, narrow, and high (up to 4-ft or higher). It is very simply layered as waste materials come available and kept covered with plastic. Decomposition occurs within its own time and speed but eventually happens. (If disposing food scraps in this pile, make sure they are well coveredburied within it)

it

0 Locate compost bin (and holding bin, if desired) near home, back door, porch, garage, or garden

0 Create pathway to bin or area

0 Ensure that water spigot or hose is near bin

e 0 Create space for more

than one compost bin, if desired

0 Plan room for one or more holding bins to stockpile raw materials

0 Visually separate from garden or favorite sitting areas, even a nosey neighbor

0 Keep your compost area neat & tidy. Even plant flowers & shrubs nearby

8

m ... Adequate air circulation around bin

excessive heat build-up in plastic bins)

on cement with sealed bottom if required by law in

(their roots steal nutrients from compost)

contact with decomposing debris

uccessful home composters

all-important “greens” and “browns” sc that they can be mixed into the bin at the proper time. Without a holding area it would be difficult to have enough volume at any one time to make a pile large enough (called a ‘batch”) to heat-up properly. Use these guidelines:

anure - in a holding bin * Grass clippings - only short

periods of time in a holding bin, not in plastic bags

* Other yard waste - in holding bin Food scraps - in tightly-lidded plastic pails

Locate your holding bin near your compost bin. It need not be fancy or rodent proof (food scraps go in buckets!) A circular bin made from chicken wire or field fencing is popular. Scrap lumber, doors or wooden pallets can be nailed together. Make sure the bir haseasy accessandcan becovered

s should always be store1 in a tightly-lidded pail (4-5 gallon sizei is good). A few layers of newspaper inside of lid will discourage flies. Don’ worry about liquid accumulating insidc pail from scraps beginning to decom- pose. This “tea” can be poured into your bin. When adding fresh scraps to pail, dust top with sawdust, peat moss or rock dust to control odor/flie:

PRQFESSQR RQTT’S GUIDE to

What t

Do Compost

Grass clippings

Leaves

Weeds

Dead plants

Food scraps

Fruit wastes

Manure

StrawlHay

Coffee grounds

air, lint

omposting challenges us to take a C little more responsibility as a plan- etary citizen. We are so used to just throwing our waste into a trash can, closing the lid and walking away from it - out of sight, out of mind! Here’s some advice about some of those compostable yard and kitchen wastes.

Food Scra

Food scraps are generated in abundance in nearly every household. Orange and grapefruit rinds, apple cores, broccoli stalks, old lettuce and cabbage leaves, onion skins, leftovers, stale bread, coffee grounds and the like: all of these will delight the microbes in your compost bin more than you can ever imagine (like a delicious milkshake on a hot summer day). Never mind if these succulent tidbits are moldy or a little soggy.

because they smell bad, attract animals, especially rodents and raccoons, and breakdown slowly. And, if you have a worm bin, please don’t put them in there either.

re The best manure, as a valuable nitrogen source, is from grass eaters (cud chewers) such as cow, steer, sheep, goat, llama, etc., and from chicken and rabbits. They act as an activator to heat up the pile. Horse manure tends to have more weed seeds. Don’t compost human, cat or dog wastes (they carry disease pathogens). Get manure at a farm or pasteurized in plastic bags at a garden center.

10

Leaves

Leaves are one of the most important ingredients for successful composting. They are considered a “brown” source of carbon when dry and a “green” source of nitrogen when fresh. They break down much faster if shredded, to create rich, dark leaf mulch when fully decomposed.

Maple, oak, birch, alder, aspen, elm, and leaves from fruit trees, among others, are great. See page 21, “How to Compost Leaves & Weeds,” for further information on using leaves and what leaves to avoid.

Weeds & Yard Waste

Use these common- sense quidelines:

* Don’t put in your bin yard debris that is diseased, full of weed seeds, possibly toxic, or otherwise questionable

* If it‘s been sprayed with pesticides, herbicides or fungicides, seriously think twice before composting

resprout should be avoided unless they are completely dead, dry, or the bin can heat up to 140OF.

* See “How to Compost Leaves & Weeds” (page 21) and “How to Compost Garden Debris” (page 22)

* Pernicious weeds & grasses that can

About Ashes Some composters use woods ashes or add

Donft

Weeds: “Gone-to-seed”

Invasive

Wood ashes Lime

BBQ charcoal

Meat Grease Bones

Dairy Products

Solid Wastes: Cat or Dog

Human

Plastic Metal Glass

Contaminated Matter

Large amounts of soggy materials

Branches & wood chunks

lime. We don’t recommend this because they are too alkaline and would raise your pile’s ideal pH level of 6.8-7.0. Many plants (blueberries, straw- berries, azaleas, natives, etc.) wouldn’t like the results either. Never compost BBQ ashes or coal -the sulfur dioxides and other chemicals will give the little worms and plants in your garden bad stomach aches.

11

rofessor Rott says:

Decomposition of organic materiais in your compost pile is greatly increased when you create the proper balance

(C/N ratios)

7:l Chicken Manure 1O:l Humus (soil) 15: 1 Food scraps 17:l Grass clippings 20:i Weeds 20:l Rotted manure 40:l Fruit wastes

~ Q W ~ (Carbo 60:l Leaves 9O:l Straw, Hay 500:l Sawdust 700:l Woody chipsttwig!

between the carbonaceous materials (called “brown” because they are dry) and the nitrogen- rich materials (called “green” because they are more fresh).

II ast .. All organic matter has a ratio of carbon to nitrogen in their tissues. Like teenagers with voracious appetites, the microbes in your pile know that the sugar-rich carbon gives them energy and the enzyme-rich nitrogen gives them protein. Fast food - yum-yum!!

A hot, fast pile (with temperatures up to 140OF) is obtained when the C/N ratio of all the materials you add averages 30:l (50:l is adequate for most slower, lower-temperature piles). You can be sure, then, that the little microbes are stuffing themselves. Remember, this ratio describes the chemical

composition of a material and does not mean that you need a volume of brown materials that is thirty times greater than the amount of green matter!

Principle #2: “ 2 Parts Green, 1 Generally speaking, you can get C/N ratios of 30:l to 50:l by adding two parts of a green material to one part of a brown to your bin. (Play with the chart above. For example, food scraps, grass clippings and leaves come close to an average of 30:l. How? Add-up the Carbon side of the ratio for all three materials, i.e. 15, 17, 60, and divide by the number of materials, Le. three. 92/3 = about 31:l) Experiment (this isn’t a perfect world!) to find your own style. In our bins, we have very good success with equal parts. Just don’t have too much brown or too much green!

Final Thought: Most problems with compost piles are solved through adjusting C/N inputs. See Troubleshooting Chart, page 28. Good Luck!

12

? A well-made pile will heat up naturally on its own. But not all compost piles are created equal. Perhaps you have too much high-carbon material (such “browns” as leaves, straw, sawdust, etc.), or maybe the weather is too cool. Perhaps, as a beginner, you’re just too insecure about all this composting know-how. Take heart, you can enhance the ability of the pile to “heat-up” (thus decompose sooner) by adding what is called an activator.

Technically, an activator is very high in nitrogen and usually comes in powdered form (bloodmeal, bonemeal, alfalfa meal and other “meals”). Some are enzyme-acting (like the commercially available “QR,”) so that when mixed in water and sprinkled in your pile they are activated like a yeast. Still others are as simple as manure (chicken, cow, goat, rabbit, etc.), whether fresh or dry. Commercial brand mixes (boxed, 3-5 lbs) are available at garden centers and usually have several ingredients from the chart listed below plus other high nitrogen sources. Follow the directions on the box.

* Manure (fresh) - layer 2 - 3 deep on top of green-brown layers of materials in bin

Manure (dry) - dust on in small amounts, 3-4 times in a “batch” pile, or a dusting on top of scraps in an “Add-as- you-go” pile

grounds - dust on, as stated above

about a quart of water, sprinkle into pile as you layer or add to it (follow package directions)

* Powdered meals & coffee

0 Enzyme-acting - mix with

n A c ~ i w a ~ Q r ~ of nitrogen)

2.4% Alfalfa meal 15% Bloodmeal 4% Bonemeal 8% Chicken manure (dry) 2.1% Coffee grounds 7% Cottonseed meal 6% Soymean meal 2.4% Rabbit manure (fresh) 12% Rabbit manure (dry) Most of the above activators work equally well. Remember: A little goes a long way!

13

Turning Y

urning your pile may mean 7- all the difference between getting compost within 4-8 weeks or 3-8 months. Every pile needs a periodic influx of oxygen. If not, your compost heap may just sit there with the bacteria feeling rather sluggish. This “anaerobic” condition (meaning without air) means slower decomposition, lower temperatures, and possible odors - a potential problem with the “Add-as-you-go” pile.

How to Do It

Turn every 7-1 0 days (or at least once per week) for maximum aerobic efficiency during first 4-8 weeks

Using garden fork, shovel, or compost aerator, thoroughly turn inner part of pile out to sides of bin and turn outer parts into center

Check moisture

Why Turn?

Speeds up the composting process Re-heats pile to keep it in aerobic state

Creates new passageways for air & moisture before pile compresses

0 Eliminates odors & matting

0 Solves many composting problems

PROFESSOR ROTT SAYS:

“Get All Fired-up!”

Aerating your compost pile gets the bacteria all fired-up again. Aerating remixes ingre- dients, exposing new surfaces for bacteria to munch on. This “aerobic” form of composting (especially good for the Batch pile), gets the little microbial critters all hot and bothered,

3 heating up the pile once again in their frenzy. Turn your pile regularly and, Voila! Composto Supremo - in no time at all (or at least it will seem that way)!

The perfect tool for the right job! Do 1 hour of work in only a couple of minutes 14

Pull in & out several times to lift & mix material within the pile.

That’s it!

OMPOSTI NG:

A Quick Start Guide

Note: For detailed explanation of this

rodent-proof bin food sciaps well. OR Step 2 Just add waste materials to bin as you go

Alternating moist green with dry brown materials, add each in 2-3 inch layers until bin is full. Mix if

Step 2 desired.

Maintain a moisture level of a

allow for good air flow into bin damp, wrung-out sponge and Step 3

Using a spray nozzle, moisten as you go, so each layer is the consistency of a damp, wrung- out sponge. Allow for good air circulation into bin

Step 3 Continue to add materials to your bin and maintain moisture level. Finished compost will be on the bottom of the pile Step 4

__ - 6 Add nitrogen-rich activator, if termixed with layers

Step 5 Seal pile with a layer of soil or finished compost and cover bin

Step 6 Turn pile every 7-10 days, if desired, moistening if needed

15

- s

Probably the most common form of composting. Why? Because people are too busy, prefer quick disposal of waste, or lack enough ingredients to make a full batch pile, There’s nothing wrong with doing it this way. It’s just that the pile inside your bin is usually made over a period of weeks or months, thereby causing the ingredients to breakdown more slowly. Here’s a list of Pros & Cons:

* Minimal effort (even for kids!) * Decomposes very slowly * Little or no stockpiling required Prone to odor problems * Immediate kitchen waste disposal Q Does not heat-up well * Quick disposal of yard debris * Compost may be less nutrient-rich * Quick disposal of grass clippings * Can attract pests if uncovered * Good for homes with little waste Does not kill weed seeds/disease

ROFESSOR ROTT SAYS ... “Ask Yourself . . .’’ 0 What green and brown materials am I most likely

* Can I afford to wait 3-8 months for finished compost?

ave an activator

T~QubleshoQ~jn~ Guide this wav! -

Easy as I - 2 - 3 ?! Step 1 : If bin is initially empty - chop or shred, then moisten

and place about 3-inches of coarsest materials (twigs, stalks, straw/hay, plant stems, weed stalks, etc.) on bottom for drainage and ventilation

Continue building pile as materials become available

Optional use of Activator - In a slower pile, an activa- tor, when intermixed with newly placed ingredients, or spread over food scraps, helps increase heat build-up

Step 2: Step 3:

Usable compost will always be at the bottom of the bin!!! 16

Try to alternate disposal of greens & browns as best you can

Try lo keep food scraps covered by a brown layer (leaves, straw/hay, or a sprinkling of activator, sawdust or peatmoss). Adding finished compost from bottom of pile to cover food scraps is also a good practice.

If you seem to be disposing too many greens and not enough browns, try drying out your fresh grass clippings, weeds or leaves to increase their carbon richness

Try turning the pile now and then to intermix greens and browns, or, shovel some finished compost at bottom of pile (removed through trap door on some bins) and place on top

Learn the lesson of needing to stockpile valuable ingredi- ents such as fallen leaves when they are available, or a supply of kitchen scraps in airtight pails

Keep a small bag of inexpensive chicken or steer manure handy to add to a slow pile

Plan ahead so that eventually you can try making a batch pile. The fast & superior results are well worth any extra effort.

Consider sharing a bin with your neighbor so that by combining your materials, you can more easily fill the bin all at once. (Now you have a batch pile, hence faster compost!)

Lastly, if you each have a bin, take turns filling them together (Who knows, you just might organize a “compost support group!”)

17

How TO MAKE A

Batch Compost

Fast Results (1-3 mos) BUT Takes P 0

0

Do I have an empty bin ready to fill? Have I stockpiled enough brown & green materials to fill a bin? Do I have a sweet treat ready lo reward myself when done? (afterall, this method takes about 1-2 hours of your time and effort!)

Step I Coarse materials on bottom Place about a 3-inch layer of the coarsest materials (stalks, straw/ hay, small twigs, tall weeds) on or near the bottom of bin. Chop them well to increase surface area for faster breakdown

- Step 3

Step 2

0 Add 2-3 inch layer of moist green materials

* Add 2-3 inch layer of drier brown materials and moisten using spray nozzle of hose Repeat this layering and moistening process until bin is full

0 Pile should have the consistency of a wrung-out Optional Use of Activator:

sponge As pile is building up, intermix layers of a nitrogen-rich activator (especially on top of food scraps or smelly items) Step 4

Step 5 Optional Turning: Turn pile (garden fork,

Cover pile/bin To retain moisture & heat, and to keep animals out. Insure good ir flow around and into bin

specialized compost aerator tool) every 7-10 days. This brings outer lavers into the center where Step 6 temperatures are hottest. Turning creates passages for air and moisture, thereby causing re- heating and faster decomposition

Check moisture level Do this weekly. Add water to maintain consistency of a wrung out sponge

So, when does this compost heap get done?!! Hopefully in about 4-12 weeks (the bin should have about 1/2 the original volume). Every batch varies, just like grandma’s cookies. See Troubleshooting Chart, p. 28

to Compost

Grass Clippings uring the spring 8. summer months grass

z 5 one’s total yard trimmings. Most homeowners

I clippings can occupy up to 50 percent of

$ quickly realize that their compost bin or system g cannot handle all that grass! Here are some tips

‘ -#

on what you can do about it. - - J c

- - rasscyciing - 0

$, Grasscycling is the practice of leaving grass clippings on the lawn or using them as mulch. It is a simple, natural approach to lawn care.

- Grass clippings are 75-85 percent water, so they decompose quickly and s release nitrogen and other nutrients back into the lawn.

-0 5 Advantages Tips

U

.c c

- E 3 2 ‘m in the landfill 2

No bagging or raking the lawn * Plastic lawn bags don’t wind up

* 50% of your lawn’s fertilizer - 2

2 b

needs are met, so you reduce time and money spent fertilizing

* Less polluting: reduces need for fertilizer, pesticides & herbicides

* Non-thatch causing - makes lawn vigorous & durable

s $

a, - I

Mow using a mulching mower * Mow at least once a week * Cut grass to about 3 inches

Remove only 1/3 of growth at a

Mow when lawn is dry * For wet lawns, raise initial cutting

time

height and gradually lower to proper height

* Use excess as mulch

’S Grass Clippings Tips

rass clippings, being mostly water and very rich in nitrogen, are problematic because they tend to com-

increasing the chance of becoming soggy and emitting a strong ; ammonia-like odor. Here are some tips for composting this valuable “green”, 2 thereby minimizing odor & matting and increasing quick decomposition:

: Compost in thin layers, intermixed in a 2-to-1 ratio with “brown” 3 materials such as dry leaves or plant debris (saving/bagging fail’s leaves ; is perfect for springkummer grass composting). Always put a thick layer

0 .c $ Tip # 2 Let grass clippings dry out for a couple of days before composting 2 Tip #3: If your bin is stuffed full of grass clippings, turn the pile (use a 5 compost turner tool) every few days for very fast results. Do this espe-

- - -

P

of course brown material at bottom of bin for aeration.

U.

cially to bring air into matted, smelly piles. 19

very household generates food waste from the kitchen - estimated to be more than

300 Ibs per person per year! If allowed in your community, composting offers an efficient means to deal with food waste. Here are some tips:

1 Did you add one of the DON’TS to your pile? don’t do it again - ever! - never! - or else!

2 Did you “DUMP AND RUN” - quickly disposed of food scraps on the top of your pile? Please take a moment each time to cover them with a small layer of brown materials (leaves, sawdust, compost, soil, activator)

3 Have you turned or intermixed the green & brown ingredients of your pile lately? Please do so joyfully!

Remove them and

All your vegetable & fruit wastes (its okay if they’re moldy). Also old bread, grains (cooked or uncooked) and even tea bags, coffee grounds & filters. Fruit or vegie pulp from juicing is especially good and decomposes quickly. Egg shells are okay but, like corn cobs, take a very long time to break down (Crush egg shells for better results).

products (cheeses, butter, etc.). Pesticide-ridden foods may have inert chemical compounds that do not break down fully.

Meat, fish, bones, fatty or oily foods, dairy

’ D 5 Q

2 +

2 E

0 Keep in small tightly lidded bucket near kitchen sink

0 Chop or shred scraps for faster decomposition

* Cover with wet towel or newspaper beneath lid

0 Scraps can be stored in plastic bags in fridge or freezer

0 Transfer contents of small bucket, when full, directly to bin, e Transfer to larger stockpile food bucket near bin (for a Batch Pile) W ... .-

E a r W - ...

very backyard environmentalist knows the incredible value of leaves for com-

posting and general mulching purposes. Leaves are nature’s most abundant recycling resource and are perfectly complemented when composted with weeds. Here are some great tips:

Fresh/green = nitrogen p dry/brown = carbon

; Bag, store, or pile leaves !$ near bin for use year- s round in composting

- % Large quantities can be $ mowed or shredded, ?? 5 speeding decomposition

and using 1/4 the space!

h Use as a fall mulch g around plants and to % amendsoil

g Use as general mulch for weed control and to keep

- soil moisture

Need leaves? Arrange for 2 their free delivery by your

- a a -

??

v1

.c

TI

x

I

Y -3

x

c ?

Poisonous types Leaves from plants such as oleander, hemlock and castor bean can harm soil life - add sparingly

Walnut, eucalyptus, bay laurel, cypress, juniper, acacia are toxic to other plants &

esi es

- add sparingly or not at all

poplarlcottonwood alkaline soil (abundant in semiarid and arid climates) more alkaline. Rubarb’s oxalic acid lowers pH. Add sparingly. Fibrous

gnolia, laural, rhod e to break down

n take a long oroughly first

Diseased & Insect Infested Plant leaves with rust, fungus, mildew, or seriously infested with insect pests - keep out of bin

L

1

municipal waste management department or a private yardcare business 2 8 0)

c Weed Tips s PROFESSOR ROTT’S

Weeds are plants too! It’s just that they may be too vigorous for our garden or yard. However, you can compost them!

Compost 2 parts fresh weeds (green) with 1 part dry leaves (brown)

2 Tip #2: “No Weed Gone to Seed should be put in your bin unless you 2 can heat the pile to above 14OOF to kill (roast) the seeds

m

0 ‘ Tip #3: Don’t compost pernicious weeddgrasses such as morningglory,

21 buttercups, bermuda grass, oxalis, quackgrass, crabgrass, etc.

ow to Compost

Garden

f you have a garden or a good-sized yard, I chances are that you also generate a fair amount of yard waste. This could include shrub and tree prunings, all sorts of weeds, fallen leaves, and grass clippings. Your vegetable garden may also generate plant waste throughout the seasons, especially fall.

Most of your yard and garden waste is green material (i.e. nitrogen-rich). While it can can be easily composted, with the exception of the branches, you still need to balance your green and brown inputs. Here are some helpful pointers.

Composting Tips

If the majority of your waste is green, dry some of it out before composting it to give you more carbon-rich browns

Composting more green materials lessens the need for activators (because of their nitrogen-richness)

One to two parts green to one part brown, either mixed or in alternating layers, is the best balance in your pile

Stockpiling fallen leaves in the autumn for later use is wise

Sawdust should be used sparingly because of its very high carbodnitrogen (C/N) ratio of 500:l

Do not try to compost excessive woody materials (they don’t break down easiy, but more than that their C/N ratio of 700:l is

leaves from branches and then chip or shred the woody debris for pathways

* *

* *

* very high). Instead, try to separate (and compost)

* Be attentive to disease and

other infestations of foliage before composting. *

See “How to Compost Leaves & Weeds,” page 21

22

ermicomposting orm composting is an easy, vv efficient way to recycle food

wastes into a fine, high-quality compost (worm castings) for your houseplants or

garden. It is becoming very popular with apartment dwellers, children, and anyone who wants the option of a

year-round, indoor/outdoor system that requires very little space or effort. Worm

bins also reduce the amount of house- hold garbage that goes to the landfill,

and they are entirely rodent-proof.

Vegetable scraps

Coffee grounds

e!

Cheese, butter

e, weasy, oily Tooas Animal wastes

bedding 2 Keep bedding moist X

Add only the proper food items 2 3

0 N

I?

Get a wooden, plastic, or metal bin . A bin sized 2 x 4 ~ 1

feet is aood for a 2-3 aerson household Fruit Fl ies

0 W dispos’Gg of about 8 pounds of food scraps

per week. Make sure bin has drainage holes on bottom, a bottom catch tray, and air vents on top and sides

Bury the food waste in the F bedding +

Place a dark plastic sheet E over the bedding 6

Put bin in a place where a few ‘E

flies will not bother anyone 2 a

$ i?

3

.- .... Q

leaves, peat moss, or coarse sawdust

lace 1-2 Ibs of “red wiggler” worms m 3 (not earthworms!) in bin. Get worms at a

baitshop, mail order, or from a friend. They multiply quickly! Rumor ha5 it that eight worms can become 1,500 in about six months! m

food waste in the . Rotate around th

m Harvest compost every few months. Push bin contents to one side of bin

and put fresh bedding on other side. Bury waste only on fresh side. Worms will 4 migrate over several weeks’ time. Have fun! Worms do! X

m

LD

A great worm resource!: WORM DIGEST (a quarterly newspaper about worms & worm composting. 23

The type of composting you are likely to being doing is “aerobic” because it combines the advantages of air, moisture, and heat to decompose organic matter. In your pile are billions of microbes, mostly bacteria, who love these types of conditions. They eat, grow, reproduce, and die with almost giddy intent. They are responsible for the rise and fall of temperature in your pile. Let’s meet some of the workers from this bacteria union who are more than happy to work in “therm0 shifts” according to the temperature in your bin.

e b w 55OF: Most microbes are semi-dormant - little breakdown occurs

HILES (cool-temperature bacteria) invade the pile and begin to burn or oxidize carbon, releasing heat and nutrients in the form of amino acids. As the temperature rises, the next crew of bacteria arrives.

PHlLES are the real workhorses of the compost pile. They consume literally everything in sight, generating enough heat to raise the temperature to over IOOOF. Their demise sets the stage for thermo- philic composting.

ILES arrive to do the “hot” composting. ir 3-5 day life span to raising the tempera-

ture high enough, hopefully, to destroy any sneaky desease germs or weed seeds. High temperatures also generate humic acid, which enables plants to assimilate the nutrients in the compost.

: The pile stabalizes in this range for a few days. t l

OTE: If you turn your pile just as the temperature is beginning to drop (see page 14 on “Turning Compost”), you will create more air flow and cause the pile to heat back up again. Yippee! This will allow those noble thermophiles to receive over-time pay before retiring. Remember, more heat means better and faster compost.

ra 01- Now the pile will gradually decrease in temperature until the mesophiles and psychrophiles move back in from the cooler edges to resume their activity. Other hungry guests will arrive as well in the form of actinomycetes, fungi, worms, and many insects. What a party! (If you only knew half of what was going on out there!)

@ $6

“WHEN CAN I EXPECT F ~ ~ ~ S H E D COMPOST?” You mean how long does all this eating and digesting take place? Expect usable compost in as little as 3 weeks, if you build a batch pile and do everything perfectly. But it could take as long as 8-12 months if you use the “Add- as-you-go” composting method. How motivated are you? End of lecture, class dismissed.

24

deally, finished compost is dark brown or black (almost like bagged potting soil), crumbly-textured, and has a rich earthy smell. But

realistically, there is no exact point at which compost is “finished.”

Many gardeners choose t decomposed. They don’t mind if there are still recognizable bits f leaves, minute twigs, straw, hay, and the like. They know it will finish decaying in the soil in their yard or gar- den.

However, if you intend to use your compost in seed starting mixes, cover seed rows, it’s best possibly screened. Otherwise delicate roots can be attacked by microbes if the roots touch any unfinished compost.

use compost that is not fully

houseplants, or to that it is well-rotted and

Soil Amen Dig in 2-4 inches per year in the spring or at planting time Vegetables, flowers, (everything!) love compost as it releases its nutrients over a 1-2 year period

Spread around garden plants, shrubs, and trees Apply 2-3 inches on surface

Steep a shovel full of compost in a 5-gallon bucket for a few days Pour on plants (dilute for seedlings) Apply 1-3 inches, raked in

OMPOST

En seed starting mixes (can be pasteurized)

ixed with potting soil for houseplants 1 part compost, 2 parts potting soil)

To cover seed rows in garden (or mix 1 :1 with vermiculite)

25

Note: More tips and advice are available throughout this booklet

Can I compost newspaper?

nutrients but but can serve as carbon material. Shred and soak it first before adding to your compost pile.

Yes, but first try to read it, then recycle. It contains no

Can I safely compost pet wastes?

organisms harmful to humans)! You can safely compost wastes from guinea pigs, rabbits, hamsters, or gerbils.

Do not compost dog or cat poop (it may contain parasites or disease

Yes there are. See page 21, " good tips.

your soil are your best gauge. Compost provides many needed plant nutrients and disperses these in small doses over the course of a grow- ing season. Compost feeds and conditions the soil for healthy plant growth. Fertilizer is short-term and mostly used to feed the plant.

Yes. Most likely your bin will go dormant if internal temperatures drop below 5Q°F. But if you continue to add to it, as instructed in this booklet, the decomposition process will increase again in spring. A compost activator (see page 13) may be added to the pile in fall to boost initial heating and then again in spring. Above all, don't be discouraged - just continue to compost and be patient.

26

HQW can I store kitchen wastes for later composting?

thoroughly discussed on page 20, “How to Compost Food Scraps.” Please note that composting food scraps may not be allowed in some communities. Check to see if that is an issue in yours.

Do I have to cover my compost pile?

rodents out, prevents leaching, and may be required by your municipality.

Stockpiling food wastes is an excellent composting strategy. It is

Yes, or you can’t watch lV! Covering your pile keeps heat and moisture in,

This very important issue is discussed in detail on page 14, “Turning Your Pile.”

Should I add worms to my bin? No. They rise up naturally o

beneath the bin later in the deco process when the heat tender feet!). The abse bin, however, is not a p

.. . . . ... - .. . .. ea wttn too many greens t~ grass clippings!!

wastes in holding bins to dry out, or dig both plant and food wastes directly into the soil, at least 8 deep. Try storing in containers for later use, or simply give to a composting neighbor.

For grass clippings see page 19 for solutions. Stockpile other “green”

Got More Questions?

Try contacting your

Management off ice Local Master Com- poster Hotline

* Local Garden Center

ost in a dry, semi-arid climate? Generally the same as anywhere else. However, especially monitor the

moisture level of your pile (the dry heat will draw the moisture out faster). Locate your bin in a shaded area if possible. And don’t add alkaline materials to it (ashes, limestone, cottonwood/poplar leaves). This raises the pH of the contents (making it more alkaline) thereby making the already typically aklaline soils of dry climates even more alkaline when compost is added.

27

LEM: Compost pile does n

/Cause

o wet: compost materials are Turn the pile, adding dry absorbant material (carbon or “brown”) soggy; not enough air

not enough moisture

st but isn’t decom- is only damp and

enter: too much carbon

Moisten pile without saturating it

Turn pile, adding nitrogen-rich materials such as manure, grass clippings, fresh leaves, vegetable or fruit wastes (brown) material, not enough

nitrogen (green) matter

onia smell: too much iitrogen (green matter) in pile :possibly too many grass clippings) 3r pile is too alkaline (possibly too much limestone added to pile)

If nitrogen problem: turn pile and add more carbon(brown) material If alkaline related: turn pile and add acid material like sawdust, oak leaves, vegetable scraps

Putrid smell (like rotten eggs): Dile is too wetlnot enough oxygen (is putrefying, not decomposing!)

Turn pile to aerate it and add dry carbon (brown) materials to absorb excessive moisture

LIEM: Pests (rats, raccoons, fruit flies, etc.)

Rodents & raccoons are attracted to meat & fatty food scraps like cheese and other diary products

Flies and gnats, etc. are attracted to uncovered wastes, especially fruits, melons, and vegetables

Remove meatlfatty foods from pile Turn pile to increase temperature Balance carbon to nitrogen ratio Use rodent-proof bin; keep lid on, put ll4-inch wire mesh on bottom or sides and insure air venting holes are less than 1/2-in diameter

Don’t leave exposed! Mix or cover with carbon (brown) materials, finished compost or some soil

Professor Rott also says: “Be careful with putting weeds with seeds in your pile. The pile needs to get very hot to kill them (140OF). If your finished compost is full of stringy or woody material, try chopping or shredding materials before adding to pile.”

28

unications, Inc., Pownal, Vermont, 1990)

od for Everyone (50-minute 1272, Burbank, CA, 91507)

es. (Harmonious Press, Ojai,

e by Mary Appelhof. (Flower Press, Kalamazoo,

Eugene, Oregon, 97440)

ic (guidelines from the New Brunswick Dept. of the Environment)

i’s compost information site includes interactive bulletin board

~ n f ~ r ~ a t ~ Q n Site (Eric Johnson’s excellent site) oil/compost-menu. html

http://www.nj.com/yucky/world/index. html

es~~rces from Gortesia C d., Eugene, Oregon, 97405, USA

Visit our website at: http://www.cortesia.org

By Dr. C. Forrest McDowell & Tricia Clark-McDowell

G a r d e ~ i ~ g for Q ~ t ~ ~ a l Nutrition (28-pp booklet, grant funded by Kraft Foods; a comprehensive guide to growing high nutrition produce) $2.95 (U.S.)

Garden Guides (20 how-to pamphlets covering all aspects of Natural Gardening; equivalent to 120-pp of state-of-the-art information; critically acclaimed) $7.95 (U.S.)

For other books and composting accessories, such as a compost turner tool or compost activator please call (541 ) 343-9544 for ordering information and prices

Please send check or money order in US. Funds

29

Home Waste

aste prevention (also called “source reduction”) is one of the most important movements today. Most municipalities in North America

are now attempting to meet a goal of cutting waste hauled to landfills to only 50°/0. Waste prevention means “the design, manufacture, pur- chase, or use of materials to reduce the amount, or toxicity, of trash generated.” Composting is only one aspect of home waste manage- ment. Here is but a sampling of other ideas you might explore.

(UnTrash It!

Do you “Dump-n-Run’? This old approach to waste disposal follows the “out of sight, out of mind” philosophy. The 21 st century message is, “Untrash It!” by creating an “ungarbage can” mentality. To do so practice . . .

The 4 R’s

Reduce Reuse Recycle

* Rebuy

The Home Front h /fT”

Think twice before tossing! That’s the main message on th home front. He are some tips. -w*

Rummage Sales & Thrift Shops Have used items that no longer catch your eye or have been replaced - old clothing, CD’s, books, furniture, tools, crafts, etc.? Before throwing them out consider having a garage sale or donating them to a family, friend, or thrift store.

Repair, Donate, Buy Believe it or not, most items can be re-

paired, and there is someone out there who is willing to tinker and try! Electronics, appliances, furniture, old shoes or clothing needing mending - these can be re-conditioned or parted-out.

Donating items to another family, or even an agency like Goodwill, not only recycles such items but also becomes a tax-deductible donation.

One of the most cost effective ways to reduce waste is choosing to “buy used.” Patronize both nonprofit and commercial stores that further the

reuse ethic of furniture, clothing, musical instruments, cameras, stereos, toys, sports equipment, and even medical equipment and supplies.

Finally, consider buying ‘‘irregular” items. They usually cost less and your purchase saves them from being thrown away.

30

ackaging Materials e Make efforts to reuse paper or plastic bags, boxes, glass or plastic containers, even mailing envelopes * Recycle extras of these items at a recycling center or through your local waste disposal service * Limit your collection of these items by taking your own carrying bag when shopping or by buying bulk items stored in your own containers.

Sensibly Look for ways to get more

product and less packaging for your money. Buy bulk or

in larger sizes. Especially control buying single serving

containers (the “instant” lunch foods or juices).

For any food products you do purchase - make sure you attempt to recycle the contain- ers. Ask your local waste managment office for more information about what is recyclable and what is not.

se zavdous Waste

You can make a big difference in how much toxic waste finds its way to the landfill. Any product with the words “Danger,” “Warning” or “Caution” on the label should warrant great care upon purchase, storage & disposal. Most people’s homes are filled with such products. Paints, car products such as antifreeze and motor oil, pool chemicals, rodent poisons, household cleaners, aerosol cans, pesticides,

Waste Facts

What’s in Trash? 32% Paper 30% Organic material 11% Glass 9% Plastic, ash, wood 7% Metal

11% Other

Individual waste = about 81bs daily (that’s about 200,0001bs over a life span)

About 60% of all waste is generated by business

Over 75% of all trash can be reduced, reused, or recycled

$1 of $1 0 spent on food i! for packaging

Every item reused = 1 Ib less for the landfill

bug repellents, fertilizers, weed killers, batteries - these all pose serious threat to the health of both humans and the natural environment.

You can lessen their potential danger by 1) reducing the number of times you use the product, 2) purchase a smaller size if use is infrequent, 3) never use a larger than recom- mended amount, 4) don’t mix products, 5) keep toxic items clearly labelled such and out of reach of children, 6) make a switch to nontoxic (“natural”) or least toxic products, 7) buy one product that will do the job of many, 8) donate unused portions to friends or other households, and 9) determine

which products you can take to a recycling center for reuse or special disposal.

31