hospitality/thirst october 2012

76
VOL. 48 OCTOBER 2012 INCORPORATING The in-cider track to success page 58 The latest hot things in refrigeration page 34 Mark Wylie joins The Hip Group page 18

Upload: mediaweb

Post on 23-Mar-2016

224 views

Category:

Documents


8 download

DESCRIPTION

Hospitality offers informative & innovative insight into the New Zealand hospitality industry. Hospitality / Thirst also has a monthly e-newsletter.

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

VO

L.

48

O

CT

OB

ER

20

12

INCORPORATING

the in-cider track to success

page 58

The latest hot things inrefrigerationpage 34

mark Wylie joins The Hip Grouppage 18

HO

SP

ITA

LIT

Y | T

HIR

ST

VO

LU

Me

48

• Oc

tO

be

r 2

012

WW

W.H

OS

PIt

AL

ItY

MA

G.c

O.N

Z

Page 2: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012
Page 3: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

The bar’s been raisedTh e recent winners of the 2012 Hospitality New Zealand Awards For Excellence deserve a special mention here because they’ve continued to defy these tough times. Th e winners excelled at the basics of great customer service, marketing, food and accommodation at a time when just convincing people to walk in the door can still be a major struggle.Th e message at this year’s Hospitality New Zealand conference was loud and clear however; give people a reason to come out, create an atmosphere and innovate to survive. Smart businesses that continued to fl ourish through changing times did several simple things, says Michael McQueen on page seven. “Th ey constantly re-calibrate, get back to basics…you need to get off auto pilot, evaluate and innovate.”As the recent awards highlight, this is already happening in plenty of venues up and down the country. But how many failed businesses could have been saved if they’d been more inventive? And how many were already being inventive but didn’t tell anyone?Columnist Vic Williams mentions how Bottega in Bourke Street, Melbourne is one of many establishments proudly advertising that they make their own homemade pasta. “Few chefs who do so in this country promote the fact. Th ey should. People are interested,” he writes on page 46.One chef owner/operator of a small restaurant in Auckland is off ering a new way of dining. Sid Sahrawat is being inventive by creating new masterpieces every week and he’s proudly promoting this. See page 12 for the story.Sid and all the winners of the above awards have raised the bar. You can too.

Have a great month everyone,

Veronica Johnston, Editor

From the editor.

EDITOR – HOSPITALITYVeronica Johnston Ph 021 756 [email protected]

ASSISTANT EDITOR – HOSPITALITYJes [email protected]

EDITOR – THIRSTDon Kavanagh Ph 021 262 [email protected]

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER

– HOSPITALITYWendy Steele Ph 021 300 473Email [email protected]

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER

– THIRSTtrish Day Ph 0275 616 556Email [email protected]

DESIGNERAmber Renée [email protected]

CONTRIBUTING WRITERSLinda bennett (christchurch)

Email: [email protected]

Sue Fea (Queenstown)

email [email protected]

Kathy Ombler (Wellington)

Email: [email protected]

INDUSTRY CONTRIBUTORSMarisa bidois, thomas chin, Pip Duncan, Ken Harris, bruce robertson, Vic Williams

GROUP SALES MANAGERLisa Morris

ADVERTISING CO-ORDINATORPip Maclean Ph 09 529 3000Email [email protected]

ACCOUNTANTPam King Ph 09 300 2670Email [email protected]

CREDIT CONTROLGladys Hooker Ph 09 300 2672Email [email protected]

CIRCULATION/SUBSCRIPTIONSSue McDiarmidrates: $80 for 12 issues plus Directoryincl GST and post.Overseas rates available on request.Address to: Subscriptions Dept, Mediaweb,PO box 5544, Wellesley St, Auckland 1141email [email protected]/shopping

PREPRESS & PRINT BYPMP PrintISSN 1172 4285

PUBLISHED BY

PUBLISHERToni Myers

MEDIAWEB115 Newton road, eden terrace,Auckland 1010PO box 5544, Wellesley St, Auckland 1141Phone +64 9 529 3000Fax +64 9 529 3001email [email protected]

Original material published in this magazine is copyright, but may be reproduced providing permission is obtained from the editor and acknowledgment given to Hospitality magazine. Opinions expressed are those of the authors and may not necessarily be those of Mediaweb. We welcome material from commercial sources for publication but cannot guarantee that it will be used as submitted.

Page 4: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

contentsOctober 2012

Appetizers7 Hospitality NZ conference highlights.

11 Proud to be a chef competition.

12 Sid’s art of surprise.

14 Northern Nibbles:The Tokyo Club, Chef Loreto Bembo and the Dilmah High Tea Challenge.

15 Capital Comment:Visa Wellington on a Plate, Le Metropolitain and Telecom smartphone technology.

16 Southern Snippets:Café Valentino, The Ibis Hotel in Hereford Street and Te Anau’s Fiordland Lodge.

18 Chef Profile:Mark Wylie joins The Hip Group.

Mains22 Simply, seafood

Snapper and shellfi sh are in demand; sustainable and simple the current catch words: these are the major themes we’ve gleaned from chefs serving up seafood.

28 Let's go outsideEvery venue needs an outdoor room. Jes Magill explains how to weatherproof it from the wind and rain.

34 Stay cool this summerBlast chillers and shock freezing are the latest hot things in refrigeration, writes Sue Fea as she checks out the latest cool inventions.

Food for Thought41 Marisa Bidois argues for house rules.

44 A new column from SPANZ praises people with good service skills.

45 Cameron Douglas talks upselling.

46 Bruce Robertson is disappointed in the new Act and Vic Williams isn’t so envious of Melbourne anymore.

48 Books to Savour.

28

12

VO

L.

48

O

CT

OB

ER

20

12

INCORPORATING

The in-cider track to success

page 58

The latest hot things inrefrigerationpage 34

Mark Wylie joins The Hip Grouppage 18

HO

SP

ITA

LIT

Y | T

HIR

ST

VO

LU

ME

48

• OC

TO

BE

R 2

012

WW

W.H

OS

PIT

AL

ITY

MA

G.C

O.N

Z

On the coverThe Novotel Auckland Airport utilised the Skope customised refrigeration service throughout the open kitchen.

See page 36.

Page 5: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

51 SoapboxEditor Don Kavanagh reports on the poor state of the Irish bar scene.

52 Competition timeThe Beam Bar Legend heats up with the shortlist of fi nalists released.

53 What's NewWe check out what's fl ash and fancy on the shelves this month.

54 The Good gets goingQueenstown's Good Group is restructuring, including making a move into Auckland, reports Sue Fea.

58 In-cider trackThe Panel gets its fi ve-plus a day with an extensive cider tasting.

62 Hey sweetieTomas Vikario continues his musings on sugar in our food and drinks.

64 The bitter endThe Panel tests its collective palate with a selection of herbal liqueurs and Vermouths.

69 Bartender profileWe launch a new feature focusing on some of the best bartenders in the game.

70 Shining starThe Panel celebrates the glory of sauvignon blanc in this month's wine tasting.

72 Top GlassEditor Don Kavanagh picks the best by-the-glass wines he's tried in the past month.

54

58

Page 6: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

4 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

When it comes to building menu excitement, Lamb Weston offers the broadest, most innovative variety of frozen potato products in the industry.

Lamb Weston Sales and Marketing Center Lamb Weston/Meijer European Headquarters 599 S. Rivershore Lane Eagle, ID 83616 USA P.O. BOX 17, 4416 ZG Kruiningen, The Netherlands

www.lambweston.com

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

HospitalityNewZealand.pdf 1 7/17/12 11:24 AM

To reduce the number of disposable containers, restaurants offering takeout services in Vancouver are providing consumers with round metal containers that they can purchase and use whenever they pick up a takeaway or want to keep leftovers from a sit-down meal, thanks to the Tiffi n Project. A portion of the profi t made on each tiffi n is then reinvested into the restaurant to allow it to afford higher quality foods from local producers. Consumers using the containers also get a discount on their bill, in the hope that diners will be encouraged to be more loyal to those restaurants making conscious eco-friendly choices and supporting local farmers. See www.thetiffinproject.com for more.

Snapshots.

VenueSeen is a new digital platform that tells restaurateurs when people are talking about them. Those who sign up for a VenueSeen account are told when someone mentions their business on social sites such as Instagram and foursquare. The Dashboard feature then shows all of this data in a central feed, enabling business owners to respond immediately and analyse how customers are talking about them. See www.venueseen.com for more.

Food luminaries and critics turned up to Maison Vauron,

French Wine specialists in Newmarket, Auckland recently to taste Ma Cherie’s

new range of macaron. Vivid and delicious, Guillaume Nicoli’s new stars – pistachio, caramel,

cherry, blueberry, passionfruit, feijoa, pineapple and coconut – were sampled along with the boutique

French bakery’s already popular fl avours. A selection of exquisite Ma Cherie canapés and petit fours also

wowed the crowd. Nicoli established the French pastry brand Ma Cherie in New Zealand several

years ago after working for French pasty master Thiery Mulhaupt in Strasbourg and several Michelin star restaurants.

See www.macherie.co.nz for more.

The new Dipjar device lets users leave small tips by credit or debit card. Dipjar is a cylinder containing a card slot that can be placed near the point of sale for tips. Users insert their card, take it out and wait for the confi rmation sound to indicate that the transaction – which is always US$1 – was successful. Since the sum is a small amount, no PIN is required. For tips larger than US $1, the user simply ‘dips’ their plastic the desired amount of times.

Nelson Wineart gave locals the chance to sample the region’s new release wines and some old favourites last month. Twenty-one wineries showcased over 100 wines while winery owners and staff were on hand to talk about them. The $35 ticket cost covered all the wine tasting (with no separate charges) and nibbles. Among the wineries involved were Rimu Grove Winery, Tohu Wines and Waimea Estates.

Page 7: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

When it comes to building menu excitement, Lamb Weston offers the broadest, most innovative variety of frozen potato products in the industry.

Lamb Weston Sales and Marketing Center Lamb Weston/Meijer European Headquarters 599 S. Rivershore Lane Eagle, ID 83616 USA P.O. BOX 17, 4416 ZG Kruiningen, The Netherlands

www.lambweston.com

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

HospitalityNewZealand.pdf 1 7/17/12 11:24 AM

Page 8: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Your business has unique energy needs, which is why Meridian has a range of power plans tailored to fit a variety of industries.

Your business gets to benefit by becoming more efficient and effective in the way it uses power, which ultimately means you can be best dressed for success.

Talk to Meridian today about changing into a plan that’s

the right fit for you.

MADE TO FIT

Email: [email protected]: 0800 496 222 Call: 0800 496 777

meridian.co.nz/industry

can be best dressed for success.can be best dressed for success.can be best dressed for success.

MER2917-001

Page 9: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Kudos and costs A pat on the back was swiftly followed by a bitter

reality check at this year’s Hospitality New Zealand conference, writes KatHy omBler.

One step forward and several back, is how it seemed at the Hospitality New Zealand conference during sessions discussing liquor reform legislation and alcohol-related problems in downtown Auckland.

First, Auckland mayor Len Brown gave kudos to the hospitality industry for its support in tackling the central city’s late night alcohol-related issues, and confi rmed his belief that it is pre-loading, not licensed venues, that needs to be targeted to clean up the city.

“We do have an issue with people leaving bars and causing problems, or pre-loading before they get into bars. It’s really about managing those … it’s just encouraging people to get inside a regulated environment.

“I thank the (hospitality) industry roundly and appreciate the way they have approached and engaged with our council with real maturity faith and openness. We want a great pub, club, restaurant, café culture in Auckland and we will support you to ensure we get that.”

However, the mayoral pat on the back was swiftly followed by judiciary forecasts that confusion, uncertainty and higher costs would all be inevitable outcomes of the Alcohol Law Reform Bill, when Judge John Hole outlined the ramifi cations of the Bill for hospitality operators.

Judge Hole, chair of the Liquor Licensing Authority, said increased local authority infl uence over liquor licensing would be one of the most signifi cant changes occasioned by enactment of the Bill.

New District Licensing Committees (DLCs), replacing current District Licensing Authorities, will be required to prepare a Local Alcohol Plan (LAP), for setting out policies regarding the location and numbers of licenced premises, trading hours and one way door restrictions. Judge Hole urged operators to get involved in the creation of these or they may discover the provisions of any particular LAP will operate quite signifi cantly against their interests. “Th ere is no doubt there exists in most communities very vocal lobby groups whose interests and aspirations are not necessarily compatible with yours.”

Is it all doom and gloom? In a positive, perhaps hopeful conclusion Judge Hole suggested the new legislation would lead to overall shorter licencing hours, reduced sales, reduced costs and a level playing fi eld. “Th ere is reasonable prospect that overall your lifestyles will be improved; and some of the cultural changes necessary to improve our society will be achieved. ”

And the winners were…

Congratulations to all the 2012 Hospitality

New Zealand Awards for Excellence winners.

Supreme Award Winner: Rydges WellingtonBest New/Redeveloped Bar/Restaurant: The Thomas Green, GoreBest Bar: Sprig & Fern Milton St, NelsonBest Restaurant: Soul Bar and Bistro, AucklandBest Café: The Batch Café, InvercargillBest New/Redeveloped Accommodation Hotel: Tuakau Hotel, TuakauBest Accommodation Hotel: Rydges WellingtonBest Country Hotel: Duke of Marlborough Hotel, RussellExcellence in Customer Service: Rydges WellingtonExcellence in Gaming: Yardhouse, HamiltonExcellence in Marketing: Grand Mercure Nelson Monaco, NelsonExcellence in Training & Staff Development: Soul Bar and Bistro, AucklandBest Music Entertainment Venue: Studio the Venue, AucklandExcellence in Host Responsibility: Little Rock Bar & Nightclub, NelsonBest Environmental, Sustainable & Ethical Practice: Fiordland Lodge, Te AnauBest Beef: The Clare Inn, Mt EdenBeef and Stout Wellington, green pea and smoked pork purée with Guinness reduction and hot mustard.Best Lamb: The Riverhead, AucklandEspresso lamb fillet

The way of the futureInnovate, deliver an experience and connect with Gen Y to survive.

Innovate, sell experiences and give Mr Average a reason to come out. Th at’s the key to survival according to Hospitality New Zealand president Adam Cunningham, speaking at the organisation’s conference and AGM in Wellington last month.

“Our industry’s biggest fi ght in the future is not competition or even rising prices, it’s the risk we face that potential customers do not see what value we add. When Mr Average’s favourite drink is so cheap to buy and take home to his waiting mates and 60-inch television screen what chance as an industry do we have to convince him to come to us?

“My belief is that our future as an industry is linked directly to innovation and delivering an experience, without these ingredients we will continue to see our business’s viability being eaten into.”

Cunningham’s message was endorsed by keynote speaker Michael McQueen. “People are staying home, getting in beer, and re-creating the atmosphere in their own home that you have been creating for them.”

Smart businesses that continued to fl ourish through changing times did several simple things, he said. “Th ey constantly re-calibrate, get back to basics. (So) defi ne yourself; you are in the experience business, selling atmosphere not just food and beverage. You need to get off auto pilot, evaluate and innovate.”

Connecting with Gen Y is critical, says McQueen, who shared a few Gen Y pointers: "Th ey are cashed up, they are loyal to people and relationships over businesses and brands. Th ey are tech-addicted and need to be in touch at all times."

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 7

Your business has unique energy needs, which is why Meridian has a range of power plans tailored to fit a variety of industries.

Your business gets to benefit by becoming more efficient and effective in the way it uses power, which ultimately means you can be best dressed for success.

Talk to Meridian today about changing into a plan that’s

the right fit for you.

MADE TO FIT

Email: [email protected]: 0800 496 222 Call: 0800 496 777

meridian.co.nz/industry

MER2917-001

Appetizers.

Page 10: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

8 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Appetizers.

Making it count The talented team of three at Dualcom

are highly solution-focused.

Th e team at Dualcom believes there’s a solution for everything, a way to make things work just how you want them to. And integrating technology with innovative, creative thinking, a little Kiwi ingenuity and a desire to make it work better is what drives this team.

Nearly four years ago, Auckland’s Casino needed to upgrade money scales for counting high volumes of coin for its gaming facilities, and asked Dualcom – automated and technical systems developers – to assist them.

Th at started a whole new area of business for the New Zealand-owned and operated company where the three partners – Brendon Wallace, Craig Barnes and Dale Botica – like nothing more than a good challenge.

“What our client needed was a specialised purpose-built system. Th e scales needed to be compatible with existing gaming systems, future system upgrades and have backward compatibility for a seamless transition to our new counting system. We couldn’t fi nd what was required anywhere in the world,” says Wallace. “So we designed and built it ourselves; from software development, fabrication through to system integration, support and now ongoing integration.”

Dualcom also customised the system to comply with other requirements such as revenue services, surveillance and security systems. Th is opened up opportunities with other casinos around the country and abroad. Th e company is currently working on a new system for a casino in the South Island and has recently completed a large-scale installation for the Adelaide Casino.

“We supply all sorts of currency management systems that save people time reconciling takings at the end of a busy day. Providing POS thermal printers, UV detectors, bank-quality note counters, small footprint teller note and coin scales are further areas of expertise,” says Wallace.

“Modern technology means customised solutions are more aff ordable than ever and that means components and software can be readily integrated to provide new and better business solutions.”

Wallace, Barnes and Botica established Dualcom in 2009. Wallace is experienced in product development, Barnes in IT development and systems integration, while Botica is a fully-certifi ed welder and fabricator with more than 15 years' experience in metal fabrication, mechanical engineering and custom design projects.

Page 11: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 9

Appetizers.

Page 12: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Better taste.Better performance.It has to be De Winkel, naturally.

There’s a lot to like about ournew formulation

Go towww.fonterrafoodservices.co.nzfor updated nutritional information

De Winkel’s new formulation isa smoother, creamier and altogether more delicious yoghurt.

De Winkel is still a low fatunsweetened yoghurt.

De Winkel’s new culture is lesstart than before.

All natural. No gelatine.No gluten or preservatives.

Our new formulation has been tested and endorsed by the NZ Chefs Association.

No changeto pack size.

No change to shelf life.

New nutritional

information.

New codes.

Page 13: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Proud to be a chef? Fonterra Foodservice’s Proud to be a Chef

competition is now calling for entries.

Young New Zealand trainee chefs are invited to vie for the opportunity of a lifetime with the fourth annual Fonterra Proud to be a Chef programme, proudly hosted by Fonterra’s Foodservice division.

The programme, targeting trainee chefs, gives 10 culinary protégés the chance to impress some of New Zealand’s most respected chefs at a semi-finals event, staged at the AUT School of Hospitality in November.

There, four lucky contestants will be selected to compete in the exclusive, all expenses paid, Melbourne finals from February 25-28, 2013 where they will join 28 Australian competitors. During the event they will be mentored by some of the best chefs in Australia, experience fine dining, participate in culinary master classes and work with a food photographer to bring an original recipe to life.

All this before one stand-out trainee chef is crowned the overall winner receiving an international culinary scholarship valued at $7500, and tailored to their individual aspirations as a professional chef.

The Fonterra Proud to be a Chef programme is open to all trainee chefs 18 years or older who are enrolled in a government recognised culinary course as at February 25, 2013. Entrants must be a New Zealand citizen or hold an eligible work visa.

Entries for the programme close on Wednesday, October 31. Trainee chefs interested in registering can apply online at www.fonterrafoodservices.co.nz or mail entry forms to Fonterra.

Canterbury chef crowned championThe winner of the Monteith’s Beer and Wild Food Challenge combined pork with apple cider.

Eight of New Zealand’s wildest chefs battled it out in a live cook-off last month to determine the victor of the 2012 Monteith’s Beer and Wild Food Challenge. The event saw all eight f inalists, and a veritable cornucopia of wild ingredients, come together at Auckland’s Seafood School in the ultimate culinary showdown.

Kane Bambery from Mount Cook Backpacker Lodge & Chamois Bar & Grill was crowned champion, taking home the cash prize of $15,000, an increased bounty from previous years in celebration of the 15th anniversary of the Challenge.

Head judge Kerry Tyack said picking the winner was no easy feat. “All of the chefs who competed have a wealth of experience behind

them and we were splitting hairs to pick a winner. Mount Cook Backpacker Lodge was considered something of an underdog, going up against culinary heavyweights and Monteith’s Beer and Wild Food Challenge alumni, but at the end of the day, they put up the best dish.

“From a wild location came a superbly wild dish that hit every mark that we set for the competition. The match with Monteith’s Crushed Apple Cider was sublime, exposing different characters of the cider with each bite. The dish was wild and deceptively complex, yet it looked simple and

we could tell a lot of work had gone into the finished product,” he adds.

European design that’s built to last – that is the core idea behind the Brabantia brand. With a long heritage of engineering and craftsmanship that dates back to 1919, it has grown from a small factory in Holland to a major international housewares brand, building a reputation for stylish, functional products and superb quality along the way. Brabantia’s extensive range of products include waste care, laundry, kitchen utensils and many more. And with most products carrying a 10 year guarantee, you can be sure to find a high quality solution to suit your needs. Premium Corporation is the New Zealand distributor for Brabantia. See www.premiumcorp.co.nz.

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 11

Better taste.Better performance.It has to be De Winkel, naturally.

There’s a lot to like about ournew formulation

Go towww.fonterrafoodservices.co.nzfor updated nutritional information

De Winkel’s new formulation isa smoother, creamier and altogether more delicious yoghurt.

De Winkel is still a low fatunsweetened yoghurt.

De Winkel’s new culture is lesstart than before.

All natural. No gelatine.No gluten or preservatives.

Our new formulation has been tested and endorsed by the NZ Chefs Association.

No changeto pack size.

No change to shelf life.

New nutritional

information.

New codes.

Appetizers.

Page 14: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

12 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Appetizers.

Sid’s art of surpriseChef Sid Sahrawat is pushing his creative skills to the limit

by unveiling new masterpieces every week.

By Veronica JoHnston

A bottle of Pimm’s awaits its fate on a kitchen counter. Award-winning chef Sid Sahrawat is keen to use it somewhere in next week’s menu. He hasn’t used Pimm’s in a dish before but he’s clearly excited by it. Thoughts of matching flavours and textures race around in his head as he considers pairing the subtly spicy, fruity tasting liqueur with some shellfish.

But this culinary master is only just warming up. It’s Friday morning and Sahrawat has eight new dishes to create before Tuesday night on top of a busy weekend of service ahead in his Auckland restaurant, Sidart. The heat is on, but Sahrawat is in his element. Once he’s done,

no two ingredients or dishes will be the same, and those with any specific dietary requirements will also be fully catered for.

Back in January, Sahrawat decided to do away with à la carte menus, preferring to make an eight-course menu that changes weekly instead. The weekly cycle starts on Fridays when Sahrawat and his two sous-chefs start thinking about what they want to cook before making the new menu for the first time on Tuesdays and rolling it out for the rest of the week until it’s time to ditch that menu and make another.

Though Sahrawat starts visualising and planning the eight courses the Friday before, the team doesn’t actually get around to

cooking and plating each one until around 5.30pm on the Tuesday − just one hour before service begins. That hour is frantically spent tasting, sometimes slightly tweaking, and matching wines to the dishes before the first guests arrive.

So what exactly the eight dishes will be is usually a mystery to him – and his diners − until he makes them for the first time that Tuesday evening.

This kind of pressure is not for the faint-hearted or the inexperienced, but Sahrawat’s team are thriving on it. Instead of making the same dishes every day for months, they get to experiment with some exciting new techniques and ingredients every single week.

Page 15: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 13

Appetizers.

Like the Pimm’s for example.“That’s the fun part, says Sahrawat. “The

Pimm’s is going to make an appearance somewhere in the next menu. I just don’t know where, what or how yet. Right now, we’re just wondering what we can do with it.”

And it seems the more unusual the pairing the better. In other words, diners could well find some Pimm’s-tinged broccoli or cucumber in their dessert next week.

But then Sahrawat and his team also have “a bit more leeway” to do anything but play it safe as Tuesday night is advertised as a Test Kitchen night, where guests are pre-warned that all the dishes that evening are experimental.

Since introducing this Tuesday night concept ten months ago, the restaurant has been fully booked which is why the ever-popular Tuesday Test Kitchen is now surprising diners every night of the week.

Sahrawat starts the eight-course menu-making process by thinking about the main ingredient profiles he wants to use for each dish. For the menu next week, as well as the Pimm’s, he’s thinking celeriac, coffee and mushrooms for the first course, banana, liquorice and marshmallow in one of the desserts and some artichoke in another.

But where this culinary master takes these ingredients from here is anyone’s guess. He doesn’t know himself yet.

As long as the dishes are balanced, he’ll go wherever the ingredients take him, he says. “I want to use Jerusalem artichoke in one of our desserts and I’ve never used it before but as long as the balance of flavours is good, most of the things come together quite well.

“For me, it’s important, when I make the menu, to use what I really want to use. If I want celeriac and coffee and it ends up having some sort of seafood in it, so be it. It’s just where my mind goes really.”

In lieu of a menu, Sahrawat simply lists one or two main ingredients from each course in a sealed, black envelope that he puts on every table. He doesn’t want to give away much at all. And the diners don’t seem to mind as 80 percent don’t even peek at their envelopes until the end of the night. “I guess they want to be able to pick the combinations or the flavours,” he says.

Like any true artist, he doesn’t mind if someone tells him they didn’t like a dish. “I don’t want the diners to like all the eight dishes. Of course if they like them, it’s great, but I’m quite fine with it if they say they ‘didn’t like this dish’ or they didn’t ‘get it’.

That’s because the whole point of the test menu is to try things.

And more often than not, the diners end up liking something they wouldn’t normally. For example, some have told him how much they usually loathe liquorice but have loved it in his dish. “The challenge is to introduce something to people that they hate by changing the form and texture of things,” says Sahrawat.

Likewise, the talented master chef has been learning to eat a lot of things he used to hate too. Like oysters and tomatoes: “I hate tomatoes…but now I try to cook them in a way that I would want to eat them.” Like making foam or a jelly out of them for example, he adds, “something that when you look at it, it doesn’t say tomato straight away. But when you eat it, you think ‘wow, that’s quite a cool way of eating that vegetable, fruit or meat’.”

This is Sahrawat at his best. He’s become a master of surprise who seems to be enjoying surprising himself as much as anyone else. And just in case you’re wondering, the Pimm’s ended up in a jelly, alongside some John Dory and Kingfish with lemon espuma, cucumber ribbons, parsnip purée, a cuervil emulsion and a prawn cracker to finish it off.

Page 16: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

14 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Northern Nibbles

The Tokyo Club is one of the latest restaurants to sign up to Ponsonby Central – the retail, restaurant, food stall and produce precinct opening up along Ponsonby Rd between Brown St and Richmond Rd. Co-owner Mark Smith (the brains behind Soto Japanese Restaurant) is aiming for a soft opening early November for the Tokyo-style urban dining concept, with the offi cial opening for Ponsonby Central scheduled for late November.Tokyo Club’s talented kitchen line-up includes master chef Hideharu Shimura (formerly head of Michelin starred Tokyo restaurants), along with chef Keiko Yoshida. The 40-seat restaurant will offer a Yokocho marketplace of “laneway” dining, which originated in the alleys of Tokyo between two main streets where the black markets used to trade. Today, they’re packed with Izakayas (drinking establishments) and food stalls serving gastronomic delights, with a home-cooked ambience. Tokyo Club is proud to offer Ponsonby’s fi rst Japanese-owned take-out sushi counter with everything prepared fresh throughout the day, as well as teppanyaki and okonomiyaki – a Japanese-style pancake pizza. The sake will be brewed exclusively for Tokyo Club by the master of Kawatsuru Sake Brewery on Shikoku Island. See www.tokyoclub.co.nz for more.

Appetizers.

Junior sous chef Chris Webb and waitress Leanne Ayre from Kermadec Fine in Auckland won gold in the New Zealand section of the Dilmah High Tea Challenge held in Auckland last month. The young team, mentored by Kermadec’s renowned head pastry chef Juan Balsani beat 13 top chefs from around the country who also competed in the inaugural event. Each team had to create a contemporary high tea and present it with fl air. They were required to produce a hot tea, hot tea mocktail, a chilled tea cocktail and a chilled tea mocktail. The competitors then had to serve the tea creations with both savoury and sweet afternoon tea food items as well as a sweet and savoury food item using tea as a key fl avour ingredient.In order to take out the title, the Kermadec representatives produced a stunning display of gastronomic delights including the ‘Next Generation Scone’, a playful, innovative take on the traditional scone, jam and clotted cream, and the ‘Lemon Poppy Seed Macaron, Salmon and Goat’s Cheese Smoker’.As part of their prize package, Webb and Ayre will fl y to Sri Lanka for fi ve days, to present their High Tea to the Dilmah family, as well as to guests at the Hilton Colombo Dilmah T-bar and the global fi nal will be held in Sri Lanka next year.

Chef Loreto Bembo has just joined the team at Sky Tower’s brasserie-style buffet establishment specialising in seafood, the Observatory Restaurant. Bembo has nearly 30 years experience, working around the world and within the United States. He also worked in the kitchens of the Princess Cruises line around Australia and New Zealand. Prior to his move to Observatory, chef Bembo worked as executive chef at the Distinction Hotel in Rotorua.

Programme co-ordinator for the Hospitality department at Bay of Plenty Polytechnic in Tauranga for the past three-and-a-half years, Andrew Targett resigned recently to open his own restaurant earlier this month – the Elizabeth Café & Larder. Located on street-level premises in the new high-rise building on the corner of Elizabeth Street and Cameron Road in Tauranga, it’s open from 7am until late, specialising in shared plates in the evening. The cuisine-style is Modern European with a taste of Asian and there’s a Depot vibe too, with Allan Scott wine available on tap. Targett was a hospitality student at the BOP Polytechnic 16 years ago and in a tidy sequence of events, his replacement, Lee Pearce, was also a student there and was taught by Targett.

Page 17: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 15

Appetizers.

Capital CommentFood is always a focus when crowds get together for a big game. The recent All Black/Argentina test match at Wellington’s Westpac Stadium was no exception, with everything from corporate hosting to hot dogs and chips churned out by stadium caterers. One innovation, encompassing smartphone technology, was introduced by Telecom for invited guests. A downloaded app doubled as an electronic ticket which, when scanned at the stadium gate not only provided entry, but also sent a message to the stadium kitchen to start preparing that guest’s pre-ordered food. Thus, soon after the guests were seated a Telecom host was delivering hot food and drinks direct to their seat. No queues or counter service required – sure is food for thought for future hospitality hosting.

Thousands of oysters shucked, tens of thousands of chocolates eaten, a real meat burger winning the burger battle, foodies braving the wild winter weather in their droves and the local industry performing at its creative and collaborative best; these would be just some of the standout features of the Visa Wellington on a Plate, held in August.Now in its fourth year, festival co-director Anna Neilson says she’s finally got the feeling the festival is here to stay. “People are expecting it now. August is wet, windy and cold and it’s nice to have something to fill that. Getting people out at a traditionally quiet time is a key aim of the festival.“The other aim is building awareness of regional food and beverage products, while the restaurants enjoy it because they get new customers. People will try a new place and if they have a good experience then they’ll go back.”In summary, this year’s festival encompassed 110 events (including tours and masterclasses), 108 restaurants participating in Dine Wellington and 64 Burger Wellington entries. This represented a 61 percent growth in events and 73 percent growth in Dine Wellington participants since the inaugural year.“What surprises me every year is the creativity in the food and beverage industry in Wellington,” says Neilson. “Every year there are so many new ideas that make us go, ‘wow’! For example, who would have thought that standing outside a little caravan in Cuba Street mid-winter eating oysters would attract queues?”Nielson is referring to the Oyster Saloon, the inspiration of Yellow Brick Road seafood supplier Rachel Taulelei. Several thousand oysters from Stewart Island, Te Matuku Bay, Mahurangi, Clevedon Coast, Orongo Bay and Tio Point, were shucked during the 16-day event.“Rachel was blown away by the demand, which was a clever combination of interesting products and beverages and top local chefs helped shuck the oysters. That’s the beauty of the Wellington industry, everyone works together, they collaborate, innovate and they have fun doing it,” says Nielson.Riding on the coattails of the main event was Beervana, the craft beer festival, which also tallied up record attendances and participatory breweries this year, and the incredibly popular New Zealand Chocolate Festival. Check out these sweet figures: over three days some 600 kilograms of chocolate was sold by exhibitors, 60kg of chocolate and 53kg of marshmallows were eaten at the Chocolate Fountain, 18,000 chocolate caraques were eaten inside Chocolate Origins and 40kg of chocolate were transformed into sculptures by the New Zealand Pastry Team.

Chef Rex Morgan’s T Rex took top honours at Burger Wellington 2012. The burger – served on a shoulder bone, held in place by a rib bone with sauce supplied in a cannon bone – saw Boulcott Street Bistro take out Wellington’s coveted Battle of the Burger title. Morgan edged out stiff competition from Wellington City’s Shinobi Sushi Lounge, Plimmerton’s Topor Bistro and Bar, Miramar’s Café Polo and Greytown’s Bar Salute.

One closes another one opens. It’s tough times and a major rent hike has rung the death knell on French bistro Le Metropolitain. Co-owners Maryline Raynal and Sebastian Jacquet opened the popular Cuba Street eatery five years ago. Raynal says having to close is very disappointing after so much hard work, and as yet the couple haven’t had time to think of what they might do next. Meanwhile Samuel North (formerly of the White House) and Jozsef Szekely (ex Matterhorn) have put a brave face on the economic climes and opened Muse on Allen. They promise fresh, organic and contemporary New Zealand cuisine.

Page 18: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

The Ibis Hotel in Hereford Street has become the fi rst to reopen in Christchurch’s quake-shattered CBD – on the second anniversary of the fi rst earthquake of September 4, 2010. The hotel has had $10 million dollars worth of repairs following the earthquakes and 50 people will be employed at the revitalised offering. Accor’s Novotel Christchurch hotel is scheduled to re-open in mid-2013, while the future of the group’s two All Seasons hotels is yet to be determined due to restricted access to the hotels following the earthquakes.

The owner of Merivale’s No 4 Bar & Restaurant, Shaun Halliwell is close to opening up a new venture called Fiddlesticks in the old Le Bon Bolli site on the corner of Worcester Boulevard and Montreal Street in Christchurch.

After being forced from their buzzing Montreal Street site by earthquake damage in April, Jen Black and the team have got Blax Espresso Bar back up and running not too far away from its old home, at 100 Victoria Street in Christchurch. And down the road in Merivale, Aikmans and Bardello have a new general manager, Steve Holmes.

16 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Appetizers.

Southern Snippets

Café Valentino is set to return at a new site in St Asaph Street, Christchurch. Twenty long months since losing his Colombo Street spot, owner Michael Turner is raring to go with former head chef Karen Gray returning to lead the kitchen team, along with a number of other previous staff members. For the fi rst three months, the menu will be exactly the same as it was on the fateful day of February 22, 2011, including prices. Turner has made every effort to source the fi t-out locally, using Canterbury suppliers including Moffat and Sksope to create a beautiful state-of-the-art kitchen and dining space. He’s hoping to open at the end of October, with the new café open from 4pm daily to begin with. The north-facing site is ideally situated, right on the green frame of the new city blueprint.

Dunedin hospitality operators were brought up to speed on the latest policing strategies for The Octagon over breakfast recently. Ian Paulin told operators about the latest strategies for cleaning up The Octagon at the event held at Crown Mill Restaurant. Dunedin City Council liquor licensing co-ordinator Kevin Meecham was also on hand to discuss the implications of the Alcohol Reform Bill for licensees and Hospitality NZ national president Adam Cunningham gave an industry update on ways to improve business in challenging economic times.

Page 19: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 17

Appetizers.

Luxury lodge Blanket Bay at Glenorchy, near Queenstown, has done it again. Prestigious US-based Hideaways International has named the fi ve-star lodge number one in New Zealand and number six in the world in its annual 2012 Readers Survey.Long time general manager Philip Jenkins says there’s no better testament to a lodge’s consistent standards than travellers themselves voting it tops. He says his team’s “ceaseless search for excellence” sets the lodge apart, while its “superlative facilities and incredible location” also attract discerning travellers.“Just last month Kate Florence, one of our young chefs, claimed the prestigious New Zealand Commis Chef of the Year title for 2012, the third time it has gone to Blanket Bay,” says Jenkins.

Fiordland wine buffs will be converging on Te Anau’s Fiordland Lodge on October 16 with Lion Nathan wine ambassador Josh Forward discussing top wines at what is now a regular event. Each month 30 to 40 guests enjoy matching fi rst-class wines with a fi ve-course dinner at the lodge, as part of the Fiordland Lodge wine club. The lodge also has a new head chef. James Loughnane, who joined the team in late August, has worked for seven years in Australia at Cradle Mountain Lodge, Orpheus Island Resort and Cable Beach Club Resort and Spa. Loughnane replaced head chef James Musk, who left for Dunedin to open his own bakery.

Cantabrians have missed the offerings of Tony Astle since the earthquakes put paid to his popular Chinwag Eathai. But the hospitality legend is back. King of Snake has opened at 145 Victoria Street, a bar and restaurant based around shared dishes, and named after one of the most popular cocktails at another of his former ventures, Indochine. And he’s planning on opening another Chinwag as soon as he can fi nd a location.

Queenstown’s Dairy Private Luxury Hotel was awarded second place in the Best Hotel/Resort in New Zealand category at the New Zealand Travel Industry Awards early last month. Methven’s Quickenberry Lodge took fi rst place. The Dairy owners Matt Diack and Paul Cook only took over the boutique property in April last year and are thrilled with the result. “To be recognised for that effort by the judges is a real honour,” says Diack.

Page 20: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

18 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Chef Profi le.

Mark Wylie sure can handle the heat in the kitchen. He’s worked a total of six years at SkyCity, the largest single-site hospitality operation in the country. During Wylie’s fi rst appointment there, between March 2004 and November 2005, he was executive sous chef, responsible for opening the Auckland Convention Centre and overseeing its food operations, and for this career chef, it was a highlight. “It was the biggest convention centre in the country,” he says. “It was diff erent – there was no precedent.”

Th en came a move to the large-volume, à la carte restaurant Soul Bar and Bistro as head chef for a couple of years before heading back to SkyCity in May 2008 as executive chef and in March 2010, he was promoted to director of kitchens. “When I joined SkyCity the second time one of my initial challenges was to do a restructure. Th ere’d been a lot of growth, we were expecting more, and I had 15 people reporting to me so we streamlined that to six.”

Wylie trots out stats as eye-watering as a sack full of Pukekohe onions. Under his watch were 23 kitchens, 255 chefs and 110 kitchen stewards. His return also coincided with Rugby World Cup 2011, the biggest sporting event this country has ever seen and the biggest event for the hospitality industry too.

“Preparing for the Cup was a huge challenge and it was pretty taxing,” he says. “We were on an aggressive growth phase before a major sporting event and there were multiple issues – construction, compliance and a big call on diplomacy skills. We had eight openings within four months, including the international gaming area and the incredibly successful Federal Street precinct of Depot, Th e Grill and Red Hummingbird. We were pretty proud of what we achieved.

“Most of my job involved a fi nancial focus, dealing with accountants and analysts, interpreting data, signing off purchasing contracts and looking at legislation. But one

of the most important skills required was managing and empowering people. In my role, there are so many diff erent stakeholders and you’re constantly changing your style. In one hour, I might talk to a kitchen-hand and then to one of our executives.”

Behind the fi rst-class hospitality though, there was real pressure. “To handle the stress you need a good team and a balanced life is vital to keep perspective. I also exercise regularly and consciously try to ‘let go’ of things at the end of the day. My wife and two little girls at home certainly help with that.”

Despite the high-rolling, big-budget environment, Wylie says his greatest achievement at SkyCity was guiding the Modern Apprentice Scheme. “It’s been running for eight years now, and involvement with the scheme has been my main creative outlet. Our trainee chefs train for three years in 15 diff erent in-house environments. It’s an awesome training ground and when they leave for other roles

Joined at the HipYoung and ambitious with a great mix of skills ranging from top chef to top

manager – Mark Wylie recently left SkyCity and joined The Hip Group. So what drives him and where is his ultimate kitchen?

Jes maGill finds out.

Page 21: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Mark Wylie worked at SkyCity, Auckland

during its busiest and most exciting

growth phase.

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 19

Chef Profile.

we want them to enhance our name. As the country’s largest hospitality employer, SkyCity has a huge training responsibility and I think we turn out good chefs. I’ve always wanted to have a kitchen culture where everyone is either learning or teaching and the Modern Apprenticeship Scheme has been the perfect vehicle for this.”

A good chef with a savvy business brain as well is relatively rare and Wylie’s upbringing takes some credit. “I’m from a family of accountants. At secondary school I studied accounting and thought that’s what I would be, but work experience in a kitchen changed my thinking. I liked the people I met in the industry and I liked what I saw of the lifestyle. I wanted my independence too.”

In 1988, Wylie started his cooking apprenticeship in the army, leaving as a lance corporal to finish his trade certificate at AUT and what he describes as a “few lucky breaks” followed. He was selected

to head a team taking part in the Taste of Canada international student competition in Canada in 1993. The Kiwis won Gold but the victorious group returned home minus Wylie.

“I was keen to work internationally and gain more qualifications. Before I left New Zealand, I’d written to several chefs in Europe and the UK, including the Gleneagles Hotel and that year, Gleneagles offered me a position as a commis chef.”

Surrounded by five-star, Michelin-star luxury, the kitchen was classical-style with a brigade of 70 chefs. “It was extremely disciplined; a tougher environment than the army and the days were long and hard. Every docket was called in French. We weren’t allowed to read them, we had to listen. The main restaurant seated 220 and there were 40 to 50 chefs working each shift. With a full restaurant there could be 1800 calls across the kitchen each service. You definitely felt you were part of the process.

“Everything that came out of the kitchen had to be fresh each day. I worked in the potage section for a few months, making all of the soups, egg dishes and various aspic jellies but we couldn’t keep anything over night. I was responsible for ordering and it was a free-for-all. I’d order five onions and might get one, so all day we’d barter for ingredients, swapping two heads of celery for a couple of onions. Sometimes we’d steal from other sections to get what we needed. I gained tremendous respect for ingredients!

“I loved the environment. Everyone there was extremely talented and they were all capable of becoming executive chefs. It was incredibly competitive, which suited me fine and that meant great results. I worked 16-hour days every day for a year, gaining two years experience in one year in one of the best training grounds.”

Results flowed that year for Wylie as well.

He won the Scottish Final of the Academy of France Annual Excellence Awards and in the same competition was a national finalist for Great Britain. He then headed back to New Zealand for more experience in the best hotels and large hospitality operations before heading off overseas again to Fiji and eventually America. “I like big places and managing staff but management can take you away from close involvement with the food and that’s something I’ve really missed over the last few years. I’m looking forward to food being the focus again.”

This month, Wylie starts his new role with the Hip Group and he’ll be working primarily with Café on Kohi and The Store on Kohi plus he’ll oversee another opening the group has planned for St Heliers. Another Hip Group project, The Pavilions, is currently under construction at Britomart and due for completion this December. It’s a bistro-café at the heart of a garden-themed retail complex, with a dessert restaurant and patisserie nearby. Before Wylie clocks in though, he’s taking a break; playing some golf, catching up with mates from Fiji (a few years back he was executive sous chef at the Sheraton Denarau Resort) and drinking a lot of kava. (For those who think kava unsophisticated, he’s a connoisseur at picking the terroir of the brews.)

Wylie says he’s proud of what he and his team have achieved at SkyCity but he’s looking forward to working directly with food again. “In a café, there’s one style and in my role with The Hip Group I will be solely focused on the food. You can be close to the product and you can influence everything. ”

And asked about his dream kitchen: “I’d like to open my own restaurant, I’ve got a head full of ideas, plenty of gas left in the tank and it’s the next step for me,” he says. Watch this space – Wylie’s home to stay.

Mark Wylie and Peter Gordon organise a fundraising dinner for the Leukaemia Foundation at SkyCity, Auckland in 2010.

Page 22: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Jamón Ibérico de bellota; cured ham from acorn-fed, pure-bred Iberian pigs, free-ranging in the native oak forests of southern Spain, has been described as the caviar of cured meat. Earlier this year KatHy omBler visited the factory and a finca (estate, or farm) of Cuyar, an organic, artisan producer in the village of Jabugo, the heart of jamón Ibérico production.

20 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Appetizers.

Making the caviar of cured ham

These “happy pigs” spend most of their day eating acorns in the native oak forests of southern Spain, to produce what’s called the caviar of cured meat.

Page 23: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 21

Appetizers.

In Huelva, Andalusia, white villages nestle in the valleys; holm and cork oak forests shade the grassy sierras; and beneath them sleek, healthy Iberian pigs forage freely on bellotas, or acorns. Th ese scenes go back centuries, along with the time-worn traditions of jamón production. Th ere’s nothing ancient, however, about the computer database Cuyar manager Jesús Cuesta Sanchez maintains, recording the genetics, weights and ages of every single Iberian pig that’s feeding out on his company’s fi ncas.

Jabugo, 700 metres above sea level on the Sierra de Aracena, is blessed with pure air, cold winters and humidity levels ideal for the traditional, natural curing process. Th e village is crammed with processing plants and considered a premium source of jamón Ibérico de bellota. Even the town’s main square is called La Plaza del Jamón.

With a mere 35,000 jamónes (back legs) and 30,000 paletillas (front legs) hanging to dry at any one time, Cuyar is considered a small, boutique company. It’s also highly innovative, marrying centuries-old tradition with the development of new, specialist products that are sought after by discerning parador hotels and gourmet shops throughout Andalusia. Exporting further afi eld is always an option.

But fi rst, let’s visit the fi nca, where just to walk among the oak trees and foraging pigs requires you to don protective overgarments to prevent you introducing alien germs. Quality control begins here, because what happens on the fi ncas is critical to achieving the end, premium product, explains Cuesta Sanchez. “Th e acorn diet is key. Acorns are rich in oil, acidity and vitamin E; health-giving properties that compare with olive oil. For their fi rst few months the young pigs feed on natural cereals such as corn, wheat and hops, and they forage. For the

last four to fi ve months of their lives, from the start of the acorn season in October, they eat only acorns. Th ey fatten quickly – they need at least 600kg of acorns during these last months which means there must be at least one hectare of grazing available per pig.”

Fortunately, then, exercise is another key factor in the premium quest.

Most important, however, is the pure Iberian breed, continues Cuesta Sanchez. “Even if a mixed breed pig eats the same diet the meat will not be the same quality. Th e Iberian is healthier, they have a higher proportion of oil and acidity and the meat is an antioxidant so it’s a really good fat.”

Happy pigs, they’re called – out there free-ranging and snuffl ing up acorns to their heart’s content, happy that is until it’s time for the winter ‘mantanza’, or sacrifi ce. Yes, we mean when the pigs are killed.

Th en the long, artisan process starts at Cuyar. Curing and drying takes years, the process is entirely natural and every single ham is taken care of individually. Not so surprising perhaps, to learn that Cuyar’s jamón Ibérico retails at around $50 per kilo.

To summarise: it begins with the bleeding, the fi rst critical step that also gives the ham its shape. Th en comes the salting (20 days on salt in controlled temperatures and humidity), washing, draining, reshaping (by machine these days, not beaten with sticks as they used to be) and only then are the hams moved to the ‘secadero’, or drying room. Every leg is labelled with its history of origin and colour coded for weight and size according to the offi cial “Protected Designation of Origin” quality controller El Jamón de Huelva. Th is organisation closely monitors every step of production, from the fi ncas to the factory, says Cuesta Sanchez. “Th ey can visit either at any time.”

Th roughout the natural drying process windows are opened and closed depending on the weather and humidity. During summer the fat melts and covers the fl oor. One or two years on the rind colour changes and the hams are moved to the bodega, the underground room, for a further two to three years. Here is where we really work with the dryness and temperature, as they both aff ect the taste, says Cuesta Sanchez.

“To have a really good ham you need a dry, cold winter and warm summer. Th roughout the process olive oil is applied to control mould and keep the skin moist and clean,” he adds.

Finally, before the hams leave the bodega each one is “smell-tested”, to ensure it is in prime condition. A small bone tool is inserted in three diff erent places, where the blood was originally taken out all those years ago. “You need a lot of experience and a good sense of smell, the skill is handed from one generation to the next,” says Cuesta Sanchez.

Hams aside, it wouldn’t do to waste the rest of the free-range, acorn-fed, dry-cured Iberian and here is where Cuyar gets innovative. New products just released include bellotita chorizos and bellotita salchichóns. Bellotita means little acorns and these specialist small goods are Cuyar’s miniature, secret-recipe version of the traditional chorizo and salchichón. Th ere’s more. Production of the fi rst Ibérico de bellota hamburger patties is imminent. Oil, vitamin E, antioxidants − could this mean the world’s fi rst really, truly, healthy hamburger?

Kathy Ombler’s Spanish travel was partly sponsored by Singapore Airlines, which fl ies one of the most direct routes to Spain via Barcelona.

The dryness and temperature of the room where the ham is stored for two or three years can really affect the taste, says Cuyar manager Jesús Cuesta Sanchez.

Page 24: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

22 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Seafood.

Josh Emett changes his seafood menu daily and bases it around what fish and shellfish are available at his Queenstown restaurant Rata.

Page 25: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 23

Seafood.

Simply, seafoodSnapper and shellfish are in demand; sustainable and simple the current catch words: these are the major themes gleaned from chatting with some noted Kiwi chefs about serving up seafood.

By KatHy omBler

Page 26: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

24 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Seafood.

Your TrusTed ParTner For:Industry training including Food Safety, Auditing Skills, HACCP

Third Party Auditing and Certification

Laboratory Testing Food and Environmental, Chemistry (including NIPs and Allergens) and Microbiology

freephone 0508 00 11 22www.asurequality.com

Be it the ocean or harbour side, Stephen Barry’s Mount Bistro restaurant sits within metres of the sea at his Mt Maunganui resort location. Th erefore, even given Barry’s status as a Platinum Beef and Lamb Ambassador Chef, his customers expect good fi sh.

Keep it simple, let the fi sh speak for itself, is Barry’s mantra. He says his fi sh of the day – usually snapper but sometimes John Dory, hapuka, blue nose or tarakihi – is treated in the same, uncomplicated way; coated with a little hollandaise, sprinkled with panko crumbs, topped with toasted sesame seeds and wakame crust, baked in the oven and served with mash and fresh salad.

“Th e hollandaise and topping create a nice little barrier to hold the moisture in. Work with good fi sh and keep it uncomplicated,” he says.

At Wellington’s Logan Brown, Shaun Clouston echoes the simplicity spiel. “We don’t do too much to the fi sh. If you have a beautiful piece of snapper then that’s the hero. You don’t try to mask it with so much fl avour you can’t recognise what it is, that defeats the purpose.”

Logan Brown’s current à la carte menu off ers line-caught snapper with roast radicchio, caulifl ower, olives and popcorn scampi, the latter done in a lightly-spiced tempura. “It’s simple and tasty,” says Clouston.

Th at the fi sh can even be the hero of the dish is thanks to today’s improved standard of supplier, he adds. “When I returned to New Zealand in 2006 I was surprised to see how badly the fi sh was treated. So we started buying in our own fi sh and doing the fi lleting ourselves. Th at was getting too big so now we also use Th e Fish Factory, a small Wellington supplier and processor, for some of our fi sh. He dry cuts – fi sh that’s washed in water goes off very quickly.”

We know exactly where all our fi sh comes from, he adds. “Th e Fish Factory source blue cod from the Chathams. We also get some locally caught line fi sh and we get a good consistent supply from Yellow Brick Road. Every container has the name of the fi sherman and where it’s from. We buy the whole fi sh from them, keep it whole, separated in ice in poly bins and we just fi llet what we need, as we need it.”

Handling is everything, agrees Josh Emett from his Queenstown restaurant Rata. “Th e big thing with our seafood menu is we change it

Logan Brown restaurant keeps it simple with some fresh whitebait.

Page 27: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 25

Seafood.

HEAD OFFICE : AUCKLAND Tel : (09) 579 1990 WELLINGTON : Tel : (04) 499 3591 CHRISTCHURCH : Tel : (03) 366 0017

Email : [email protected] WEBSITE : www.eurotec.co.nz

In the food industry, temperature measurements are part of the daily routine. The quality of the products can only be tested and guaranteed by precise measurements. And this is also the only way to ful l HACCP regulations.The testo range of measuring instruments can carry out spot-check measurements in seconds.

Whether in the transport and storage of foods, in restaurants, in large kitchens or in chain restaurants. Wherever temperature needs to be recorded, testo measures up and helps you keep compliant,

Contact your nearerst Eurotec office today for more information.

EUROTEC

We measure it.

TemperatureMeasurement Technology

HACCP Compliance

Testo 104 Testo 104 IR

Are YOU prepared for compliance with the new

NZ Food Safety regulations?

daily, we base it around what fish and shellfish are available and we take care of how we handle the product.

“First you have to have trust in your supplier then once it’s in your kitchen you have control. It’s how you handle it, how many times it’s touched. We pack our products in ice and change the ice twice a day, after lunch and after dinner service. It’s about setting good practies.”

Clamouring for clams, and other shellfishWe’ve all done it, probably on summer holidays at the beach, squishing our toes into the sand to find what we call cockles, or tuaki, the sweet shellfish the rest of the world calls clams. Now picture this: it’s a cold, blustery Otago winter morning, low-tide, and several, wet-suited bodies back slowly through the water, waist deep, each hauling hand dredges filled with little-necked clams destined for the world’s best restaurant tables and, increasingly, our own.

Otago-based Southern Clams has been supplying the export market for 20 years and for the last five years the domestic market has been on the climb. Just the last six months has been greater than ever, says operations manager David Redshaw.

Clams are becoming very popular, agrees Josh Emett. “I think until now they have been under-utilised. I use them a lot and they are flying out the door. Currently we serve them lightly steamed with a little seaweed butter. We try not to do too much, we keep them natural.”

They also have an amazing shelf life, he adds. Redshaw says this is probably one of the standout features of the clam – apart from the sweet flavour, of course.

Despite his ‘keep it simple’ mantra, Stephen Barry has got creative and, yes, complicated, at times. Patrons won’t let him abandon the Sword in Sauce-ry, a Monteiths Wild Food finalist back in 2007. It’s a spectacular array of skewered scallops, prawn tail, crayfish, salmon and fresh fish, flambéed with horopito and lime vodka and served with dipping sauce.

Page 28: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

26 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Seafood.

They are also available year round, har-vested in a sustainable, rotational way, he says. “Commercial harvesting from Blueskin Bay has been stable for the past 40 years; we don’t want to overexploit it.”

Logan Brown’s clam supplier, Westhaven in Golden Bay, is also wary of over-fishing. “They only fish part of their quota because they think their full quota just isn’t sustain-able,” says Clouston.

As with fish, the standard of shellfish sup-plied to restaurants has also improved, he says. “In 2006 you were lucky to get oysters in their shells, whereas this year we have just been shucking six different types of oyster, at Yellow Brick Road’s ‘Oyster Saloon’ in the Visa Wellington on a Plate Festival.”

Our overseas visitors love our shellfish, he adds. “We serve tuatua from Cloudy Bay Clams; they offer a point of difference especially for international guests when we tell them how we can get them from the beach at low tide.”

Snapping the snapper, and other sustainable stuffUnless you’re in deep-south blue cod territory, snapper remains the pre-eminent, popular fish on restaurant menus. Yet the species sits rated right down there in the red, the “worst choice” on Forest & Bird’s Best Fish Guide, which rates species for

their ecological sustainability. Should restaurants be concerned?

Some suppliers contend that snapper have ‘come back’ and are now in good numbers. F&B’s advocacy manager, Kevin Hackwell, says the guide’s ratings are based on the latest, official stock assessments done jointly by government scientists and the fishing

industry, but acknowledges some difficulties with these.

“The reality is there has been historic depletion however we agree stocks are now improving in some areas. The difficulty is that two stocks (East and West Coast) are managed as one, and Northland and Eastern Bay of Plenty assessments have not been

MOANA BAZAAR138 Halsey St, City ViaductTel: (09) 302 4027Fax: (09) 303 1404www.moanapacific.com A Division of Aotearoa Fisheries Ltd

MOANA BAZAAR138 Halsey St, City ViaductTel: (09) 302 4027Fax: (09) 303 1404www.moanapacific.com A Division of Aotearoa Fisheries Ltd

MOANA BAZAAR138 Halsey St, City ViaductTel: (09) 302 4027Fax: (09) 303 1404www.moanapacific.com A Division of Aotearoa Fisheries Ltd

No. 1 fresh seafood supplier to the Food Service sector...

• 6daydeliverythroughoutAuckland

• OvernightdeliveryserviceoutsideAuckland

• Nobodycanbeatourfreshness...directfromboatsdaily

• Widerangeof freshwetfish,liveshellfishandcrayfish,

plusfrozenproducts

• SituatedinthecityViaducthandytoAucklandCBD

• FullyregulatedFoodControlPlan

Six different types of oyster were shucked at this year's Visa Wellington on a Plate festival.

Page 29: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 27

Seafood.

New Zealand Wholesale Seafoods Ltd

updated since 2000. If for the next guide the assessment goes up we can make a diff erent evaluation.”

Th ere are also issues of ecologically-damaging bottom trawlers and by-catch of seabirds, in particular, the rare black petrel in the Hauraki Gulf, he adds.

Logan Brown is a champion of sustainability.

In fact the launch of the 2012/13 Best Fish Guide took place in the Wellington restau-rant, yet snapper is on the menu. Co-owner Steve Logan has done his own research and is comfortable about this.

“Th e F&B Guide does generalise to some extent. We use line-caught snapper from Northland − we know there is plenty of it there as opposed to other areas. [Th e presence here of our oldest marine reserve, and the benefi ts of reserves as breeding grounds, can take some credit.] Th e other important factor is how it is caught, line caught as opposed to netting, which can harm the sea bottom or catch marine mammals or birds.”

Chef Clouston says Leigh Fisheries, who supply Logan Brown, fi sh carefully with heavy sinkers so the lines drop fast and they have a zero rate of seabird by-catch. “Th eir skippers are very proud of what they do.”

Hackwell agrees that some fi shing com-panies do a better job than others; and it’s worth restaurants doing their own research into their suppliers.

For Logan, procuring seafood per se and holding true to sustainable principles is a constant balancing act. “Our customers do want to eat fi sh. We do need to cater to our market to stay in business and cannot always stick to our principles if weather or seasons aff ect supply. We also have to consider our

carbon footprint in balancing the distance the fi sh is transported with how sustainable the species is.

“If snapper is unavailable we use spotted cod from Southland or the Chathams. We would love to use local, line-caught Cook Strait hapuka regularly but there are too few, or West Coast turbot which is relatively plentiful but is trawled.”

He is emphatic about one species: “We would never ever serve blue fi n tuna.” Josh Emett agrees. “At Rata we’re very careful about what we use and blue fi n tuna is one of several diff erent species we won’t. You’ve got to make a stand.”

Logan says it’s up to this generation to make changes to ensure the fi sheries have a future, before it’s too late. “We are motivated by doing the right thing by our environment. We encourage and support suppliers who do the same. More of our guests are taking an interest in where we get our fi sh. Eventually consumers will be a lot more discerning and actually choose to dine only in restaurants that purchase sustainably.  

“Maybe some retailers think short term and happily buy and serve fi sh that is not sustainable. Th ey obviously have little regard for their children and future generations who (otherwise) potentially will have only jellyfi sh to eat.”

Page 30: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Let's go outside

Outdoor Rooms.

28 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Page 31: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Every venue needs one – an outdoor room.

But the wind and rain can often stop people from dining

alfresco or enjoying a few drinks outside if they are not protected from the elements. So Jes maGill unravels some shades to discover the key to

a weatherproof outdoor room and rooftop bar.

Shade 7’s tulip umbrellas at The Commons in Takapuna

can take winds up to 60 km/h.

Outdoor Rooms.

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 29

Page 32: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

HEA

TER

SB

AR

RIE

RS

HA

MM

OC

KS

BREEZE BARRIERSA stylish Breeze Barrier featuring vinyl or canvas secured on all 4 sides using a proprietary sail-track system. Contact us for details on branding.

HAMMOCKSThe classic rope hammock, in either cotton or polyester with a wooden spreader, best represents a relaxing holiday rest in the sun. If you prefer some colour or a different style we have Mexican and Brazilian hammocks (coloured fabric/tighter weave, no spreaders).

Check out our range: www.tradewinds.net.nz

Showroom: 172J Marua Rd, Ellerslie, Auckland

Freephone: 0800 800 279

Email: [email protected]

A stylish Breeze Barrier featuring vinyl or canvas secured A stylish Breeze Barrier featuring vinyl or canvas secured on all 4 sides using a proprietary sail-track system.

The classic rope hammock, in either cotton or polyester with a wooden spreader, best The classic rope hammock, in either cotton or polyester with a wooden spreader, best represents a relaxing holiday rest in the sun. If you prefer some colour or a different style represents a relaxing holiday rest in the sun. If you prefer some colour or a different style we have Mexican and Brazilian hammocks (coloured fabric/tighter weave, no spreaders).we have Mexican and Brazilian hammocks (coloured fabric/tighter weave, no spreaders).

All chair and umbrella options can be printed/branded as required.

HEATERSMaximise use of your outdoor area with electric infrared heating – efficient and cost effective. Infrared heating heats the object not the air, has no emissions, and has low operating costs. Select from the range of sizes between 2kw to 8kw depending on area to be heated.

Your number one choice in outdoor

All chair and umbrella options can

Your number Your number one choice in outdoor

All chair and umbrella options can

BREEZE BARRIERSA stylish Breeze Barrier featuring vinyl or canvas secured BREEZE BARRIERSA stylish Breeze Barrier featuring vinyl or canvas secured A stylish Breeze Barrier featuring vinyl or canvas secured

All chair and umbrella options can be printed/branded as required.be printed/branded as required.All chair and umbrella options can

Our full range of products includes wooden, aluminium, heavy duty and cantilever umbrella options. This range has been the industry standard for high specification parasols for nearly 20 years. Our full range of products are suitable for corporate, private and promotional use.

Page 33: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Come summertime, when restaurants and bars are humming, patrons like to head outside and socialise in the great outdoors. Th e most popular outdoor hospitality “rooms” usually include something from the natural elements, such as a great view, or feature trees in planters or lush foliage in tubs. Retaining or emphasizing natural materials such as native timbers and original brick walls, off ers a timeless ambience that has broad appeal.

Th e ambience of a restaurant or café’s outdoor spaces will usually be dictated by the theme created inside. Th e hottest places in New York right now seem to be inspired by an unpretentious backyard of a friend, where mis-matched chairs are teamed with tables from diff erent eras and great evenings are always guaranteed.

What’s happening in the kitchen also has an impact on alfresco dining and with tapas and small plates all the rage, outdoor dining and social spaces are much more casual and dynamic. New York sets the style for innovative dining around the world and right now, rooftop bars are popping up everywhere and leading operators are investing in retractable glass windows and ceiling panels.

According to specialist hospitality architect Mike Marshall from Two Point Zero Design (and as co-owner of Tin Soldier in Ponsonby, a moonlighting restaurateur); the popularity of rooftop bars is going nuts around the world and about to explode in New Zealand. And that has challenges for hospitality operators, with the most testing environmental factor to consider being wind control.

“It’s easy to manage rain and sun, but wind

is tricky and traditionally, New Zealand hospitality operators have been bad at going upstairs. Dealing with a scenario where a lower level building has a fi ve-storey building next door takes some planning, because controlling swirling wind is tricky. But essentially, successful wind control is all about having adequate fl exible cover. Next, think about the sun. A rooftop bar needs to embrace the sun but you need to off er shade options too.”  

Th e key to a winning rooftop bar begins at the design stage and thinking of the space in three dimensions: the walls, roof and fl ooring. With those resolved, furniture, lighting, heating and sound systems can then be incorporated.

“Rooftop bars need to be special. Simply adding a deck or creating a verandah just won’t cut it. We’re lucky in New Zealand with our harbour views and elevation but if you haven’t much in the way of aspect – and many popular rooftop bars around the world don’t – you need to create a point of diff erence, like an outdoor cinema, for example.”

Marshall advises anyone thinking of opening a bar to ensure it has an adequate outdoor area. “And that’s not just for smokers. It’s important to create areas where non-smokers and smokers can be comfortable together, thinking ‘separation’ not ‘segregation’ and this is possible using planters and thresholds.”  

Michael Pearce from Shade 7 – umbrella distributors, part-manufacturers and assemblers – says windswept conditions in New Zealand often stop people from dining alfresco or enjoying a few drinks on the deck and that spells lost patronage for restaurants and bars

without weatherproof outdoor areas. “Large umbrellas are ideal for hospitality

operators with limited seating indoors and who have the opportunity to expand their outdoor seating capacity,” Pearce says. “Because large commercial umbrellas are retractable, resource consent isn’t required. Th ey can be erected and pulled down simply by turning a handle and by removing the handle after hours; the umbrellas are tamper-proof. Th e robust aluminum frames, which don’t rust – are ideal for New Zealand conditions.”

At Columbus Coffee in Glen Innes, Auckland, Shade 7 recently installed two large 4m x 4m commercial Icon umbrellas. The frames are made and wind-tunnel tested in Germany and rated to withstand 60 km/h winds.

“We positioned the umbrellas side-by-side and connected them with guttering to create a continuous shaded, waterproof area. Clear plastic drop sides were then added by the client to create a completely sheltered space when required,” says Pearce.

The high-prof ile Pack & Company’s Takapuna McKenzie precinct on Auckland’s North Shore is another recent installation by Shade 7. In Th e Commons – a shared area between several restaurants – six tulip umbrellas were selected. Th ey’re a top-end product made with fabric from Spain, German-made frames and assembled in New Zealand.

“Rain water is collected down the see-through perspex stems of the tulip and the umbrellas – also tested in Germany – can take winds up to 60 km/h as well.”

An outdoor room for every

season at the Aikman’s Bar in

Christchurch.

Outdoor Rooms.

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 31

HEA

TER

SB

AR

RIE

RS

HA

MM

OC

KS

BREEZE BARRIERSA stylish Breeze Barrier featuring vinyl or canvas secured on all 4 sides using a proprietary sail-track system. Contact us for details on branding.

HAMMOCKSThe classic rope hammock, in either cotton or polyester with a wooden spreader, best represents a relaxing holiday rest in the sun. If you prefer some colour or a different style we have Mexican and Brazilian hammocks (coloured fabric/tighter weave, no spreaders).

Check out our range: www.tradewinds.net.nz

Showroom: 172J Marua Rd, Ellerslie, Auckland

Freephone: 0800 800 279

Email: [email protected]

All chair and umbrella options can be printed/branded as required.

HEATERSMaximise use of your outdoor area with electric infrared heating – efficient and cost effective. Infrared heating heats the object not the air, has no emissions, and has low operating costs. Select from the range of sizes between 2kw to 8kw depending on area to be heated.

Your number one choice in outdoor

Our full range of products includes wooden, aluminium, heavy duty and cantilever umbrella options. This range has been the industry standard for high specification parasols for nearly 20 years. Our full range of products are suitable for corporate, private and promotional use.

Page 34: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Bromic Heating is proud to announce the New Tungsten Electric. This stylish new design has revolutionised the world of outdoor heating. The Tungsten Smart Heat Electric is stylishly designed to provide efficient directional heating for commercial and residential locations.

Available in four models of varying heating outputs and compatible with smart control systems to enable precise dimming control. Included are wall and ceiling mounting brackets to allow adjustable angle of the heating direction with simple one-touch on/off switch. Heaters provide excellent infra red radiant heat output and are fully waterproof.

Make the smart move and switch to Bromic Heating’s range of outdoor heaters today.

Contact us on 0508 276 642 or visit www.bromicheating.com

NEW RELEASE: TUNGSTEN ELECTRIC

WWW.BBQSANDMORE.CO.NZ WWW.BROMICHEATING.COM

Page 35: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

When Good Group bought Aikman’s Bar and Restaurant in Merivale, Christchurch, it came complete with a new outdoor area that has been so popular, work commences soon on a similar but larger pavilion. The extended outdoor area will deliver extra cover as well as include a new outdoor bar which can be enclosed with drop-down sides for inclement weather.

The original structure has a wooden roof frame, with a wooden floor beneath, and supports an aluminum Louvretec opening roof system. There’s a combination of different seating options: bar leaners and stools, tables and chairs, and an area to the side of the shelter ideal for settled-weather days. Lighting, heating, flat screen TVs, drop screens and a sound system have also been included in the space, which customers and management have declared a huge success.

It’s hard to enjoy stunning views at a harbourside location without copping an occasional chilly wind and the constant challenge for restaurant operators and designers is finding a product that performs the required task – in this case, heating the outdoor deck for the Fish Restaurant at the Hilton in Auckland – without compromising the ambience or fighting with the views.

“The selected heating solution at Fish was the Platinum Smart-heat Gas 500 Series. It needed to protect diners from cold, windy conditions and distribute a comfortable level of heat across the outdoor area,” says Matt Kelman from Bromic Heating.

“Our New Zealand customers are finding this model of heating ideal for local conditions. Made from brushed stainless steel and ceramic, it’s robust for coastal locations. Wind resistant levels are up to 18 km/h; there’s electronic ignition which can be wired into C-Bus or smart control systems for single or multiple units and there’s electronic re-ignition should a gust blow out the flame.”

Kelman says customers are finding the new-release Tungsten Electric heater incredibly effective too. “In fact, we think it has revolutionised the world of outdoor heating. It comes in four models, has directional heating and it’s compatible with smart control systems which makes dimming easy. It can be wall or ceiling mounted, is fully waterproof and emits infra-red radiant heat so the sense of warmth and well-being for café and restaurant customers is a hugely valued feature.”

While time might be running out to establish a rooftop bar in time for Christmas, there’s always next year. In the interim, why not introduce a few planter boxes for decoration and delineation, lighting (functional and aesthetic), plus a flat screen or two for entertainment. Then let the good times roll.

Effective heating that doesn’t spoil the view at Hilton Hotel’s Fish Restaurant, Auckland.

Bromic Heating is proud to announce the New Tungsten Electric. This stylish new design has revolutionised the world of outdoor heating. The Tungsten Smart Heat Electric is stylishly designed to provide efficient directional heating for commercial and residential locations.

Available in four models of varying heating outputs and compatible with smart control systems to enable precise dimming control. Included are wall and ceiling mounting brackets to allow adjustable angle of the heating direction with simple one-touch on/off switch. Heaters provide excellent infra red radiant heat output and are fully waterproof.

Make the smart move and switch to Bromic Heating’s range of outdoor heaters today.

Contact us on 0508 276 642 or visit www.bromicheating.com

NEW RELEASE: TUNGSTEN ELECTRIC

WWW.BBQSANDMORE.CO.NZ WWW.BROMICHEATING.COM OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 33

Outdoor Rooms.

n e x t g e n e r a t i o n s h a d e

SHOWROOM: 41 MORRIN RD, ST JOHNS, AUCKLAND

PH: 09 570 1112, WWW.SHADE7.CO.NZ

Premium QualityCommercial Umbrellas

Elegant, sturdy and built to last, the Shade7 range of quality umbrellas are the perfect choice

for creating a uniquely sophisticated setting.

Increase your brand exposure with personalisedumbrella printing - our umbrellas can be customised with

printing of any text and/or logo to any size.

Call the experts with New Zealand’s largest range of commercial umbrellas.

Page 36: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

34 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Refrigeration.

Stay cool this summer

Blast chillers and shock freezing are the latest hot things in refrigeration, writes sue Fea as she checks out the latest cool inventions.

Skope Pegasus Refrigeration helps cool things down at Christchurch Casino.

Page 37: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 35

Refrigeration.

Page 38: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Award-winning design dictates premium refrigeration solutions. The Novotel Auckland Airport utilised the SKOPE customised refrigeration service throughout the open kitchen, and created a feature of the black backbar in its unique ‘living’ bar area. Contact us today to find out how we can create something special for you.

Depend on us for the best in refrigeration.

0800 947 5673 skope.co.nz

Page 39: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 37

Refrigeration.

Award-winning design dictates premium refrigeration solutions. The Novotel Auckland Airport utilised the SKOPE customised refrigeration service throughout the open kitchen, and created a feature of the black backbar in its unique ‘living’ bar area. Contact us today to find out how we can create something special for you.

Depend on us for the best in refrigeration.

0800 947 5673 skope.co.nz

Ovens often take all the glory in a commercial kitchen – all that drama, heat and fi re power claiming centre stage, while refrigeration gets to chill out in the background. However, hospitality operators know only too well how important it is to stay cool on the job and with summer approaching good refrigeration is vital.

Southern Hospitality’s Otago Southland regional sales manager Mark Latham says there haven’t been too many major advancements during the past fi ve years, but the latest hot thing off the block would have to be blast chilling and shock freezing.

Although these are not new concepts, many chefs are now realising their benefi ts.

Blast chilling reduces the temperature of any freshly cooked product quickly, which retains the quality of the food, preventing it from deteriorating or drying as it cools. If this process takes a longer amount of time then eff ectively there’s a longer break down period. “Imagine cooking a large roast of beef and pulling it from the oven to reheat or serve at a later date. If you put it into a standard cool room there would be substantial weight loss or yield and also a decrease in moisture and fl avours,” says Latham.

Blast chilling is very benefi cial in minimising bacteria. A large pot of mince mixture cooked on a stove-top could take hours to cool in a cool-room and would chill from the outside putting temperatures at dangerous levels for bacteria. “If this mixture is cooled quickly then it’s not only safe, but you can work with it faster cutting down on prep time and overall labour costs.”

Th e main advance in shock freezing is how water crystals act as key to the freezing and regeneration of a product. Th e longer it takes to freeze, the larger the crystals that form and eff ectively the “soggier” the product becomes on thawing. Th is breaks down the molecules and ultimately gives a far less appealing end result. By purchasing larger quantities of in-season meat or produce when prices are low operators can win out and minimise wastage.

Some Skope Pegasus Custom Drawers in action at Novotel Auckland Airport.

Page 40: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

38 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Refrigeration.

TSLOWZERO.CO.NZ

Where will we been seen next...

who are as passionate about their business as you are about yourswith a philosophy that quality comes before quantitywho embrace and promote new technology and designpartnered with the best brands on the marketwith quality solutions for every budget

GO-TO BRANDFOR CLEVER REFRIGERATION#1

A REFRIGERATION COMPANY...

“IF YOU CAN DREAM IT, WE CAN BUILD IT!”

BESPOKE SPECIALISTSWWW.BELOWZERO.CO.NZBESPOKE SPECIALISTSWWW.BELOWZERO.CO.NZ

0800 235 6990800 235 699Where will we been seen next...

Page 41: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 39

Refrigeration.

Italian-manufactured Irinox blast chillers and shock freezers are a hot favourite and for those who can aff ord the investment there are big savings to be made in shrinkage, moisture loss, wastage and labour. Skope has recently released the Irinox Rolls Royce range, the MF-Plus multi-function centre, which has the ability to not only blast chill and shock freeze but to low-temperature cook, thaw, regenerate, pasteurise and even proof breads.

Skope’s Irinox product manager Richard Bennett says this new innovation allows operation from minus 40°C to 85°C in the same cabinet. “Th e big advantage is you don’t have to be there. It will work for you 24 hours a day. After a normal day’s use you can load the cabinet with meat, chicken or fi sh portions, slow cook, auto blast chill and/or shock freeze overnight or hold at 65°C serving temperature,” says Bennett.

Th is new dream machine even HACCP data records cycles with an in-built fi ve-sensor probe. Th e data can be downloaded and presented for food hygiene inspections.

With traditional cooking and standard cooling it can take 15 to 20 hours to achieve the required 3°C core temperature. Th is creates bacteria growth moisture and volume loss through oxidation and evaporation lasting only one to three days, depending on the food. But 90 minutes in, the MF Plus blast chiller will preserve the quality, taste, volume, moisture and freshness for one to three weeks fresh or in a vacuum bag.

Bennett says meat cooked traditionally then refrigerated loses up to 15 percent of its volume and weight. Th is low-temperature cooking method can reduce that to two or three percent retaining the look, taste and fl avour. “So it’s a massive cost and labour saving.”

It allows for planned production on one day of the week instead of three days a week, reducing labour costs and wastage.

A small 60-seater restaurant may balk at investing $15,000 in a blast chiller, but Bennett says in a year they could save up to $25,000 more than paying back their investment.

Th e MF Plus blast chiller range off ers 60 programmed cycles and 12 customised cycles of blast chilling and shock freezing which can be electronically set to a standard restaurant ‘gastronomy’ mode, ‘baking and pastry’ mode or as an ‘ice cream confectionary’ unit.

Kiwi celebrity chef Simon Gault would not be without his Irinox blast chiller and says it’s very important to research before you buy. A cheaper brand he initially tried didn’t keep up at all. “Th ey may be more expensive, but they’re truly fantastic. You get what you pay for. It’s the only blast chiller I’d use.”

Gault says a seminar he attended in Australia on blast chilling three years ago was probably one of the best things he’s ever done. “Th ey demonstrated freezing a piece of meat in a normal freezer and one in an Irinox blast chiller. In thawing them out, the one from the traditional freezer was surrounded in a

pool of juice but there was not a drop of juice around the Irinox blast chiller one – it was all retained within the meat.”

By using a blast chiller and getting the core temperature down to 3°C quickly you extend the life and freshness of the product, says Gault. “A roast chicken reheated the next day is a good example. Normal chicken reheated the next day would be dry, but by getting the core temperature down to 3°C that retains its integrity for reheating.”

Traditional slow chilling slowly destroys the structure of the product whereas blast chilling retains volume, structure, fl avour, freshness and moisture.

He’s more than recouped the costs and challenged the head chef in his Wellington restaurant, Pravda, to trial an Irinox blast chiller, and if he could save two percent on food costs he could keep it. “He did that and has consistently saved two percent since then.”

Gault reckons some Kiwi chefs are too hung up on using the cheapest of everything instead of forking out for a superior product which will make them bigger savings in the long run. “Restaurant owners often fall into the same basket. Buying the cheapest doesn’t work – buying the best does,” he says.

He always tries to design a bit more refrigeration space than he needs so all food products can be sighted when you walk into a cool room. Th is results in fresher food on the table and lower food costs.

Kiwi celebrity chef Simon Gault uses an Irinox blast chiller in his

Euro restaurant, Auckland.

Several food display cabinets keep things cool

in a Lake Tekapo venue.

Page 42: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

tastecateringcateringcateringcatering

to every

New Catalogue Out Now!Download or view the full catalogue at www.inghams.co.nz/foodservicenzA

CU

_IN

G_1

1239

ACU_ING_11239_Hosp_09_12_Print.indd 1 18/09/12 5:10 PM

Page 43: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 41

Food for Thought.

tastecatering

to every

New Catalogue Out Now!Download or view the full catalogue at www.inghams.co.nz/foodservicenzA

CU

_IN

G_1

1239

ACU_ING_11239_Hosp_09_12_Print.indd 1 18/09/12 5:10 PM

Know the rulesThe ‘house rules’ are a separate and important part of the business.

After several discussions lately with employers dealing with issues relating to team culture, I’ve come to the realisation that employers are habitually relying on verbal communication to convey their workplace policies and as a result information can get lost in translation.

An important tool to help to describe the ethos of your business is your ‘house rules.’ Whereas your employment agreement is an essential document which provides a legal outline for employees and employers on the employment relationship, the ‘house rules’ provide information on some of the business’s key policies and communicate your expectations of how employees should behave.

Do you really need to write them down?Verbal communication between management and employees is an essential part of establishing management credibility and developing team culture. However, it can easily be forgotten, misunderstood or misinterpreted. All important information should therefore be available in writing. Having a written document outlining

the culture of the business is an effi cient way of orientating new employees and can also be provided to prospective staff members to highlight the business’ expectations of its employees.

Shouldn’t house rules become part of your employment agreement?It’s not a good idea to outline workplace policies in employment agreements as it makes it harder to amend them. Policies which are combined as part of your employment agreements would normally require the employee’s consent to change. Th e process is usually a lot simpler if the policies are stand-alone or incorporated into your ‘house rules.’

What should you include?Typically the ‘house rules’ will include guidelines for employees on rosters, timesheets, signing in (and out), punctuality, grooming/uniform requirements, breaks, staff drinks/meals/staff discounts, cash handling and stock control, use of the business phone/computer/music system and disciplinary procedures.

Once you’ve developed your house rules you need to ensure you use them. It’s not enough to have a copy of them lying around − new employees should be provided with the ‘house rules’ and should sign their acknowledgment that they have read and understood the policies. Any amendments over time also need to be clearly communicated to all staff and you must always be consistent when applying the policy.

It is worth spending some time getting this communication right. If you’d like some advice or assistance in customising your ‘house rules’ call the Restaurant Association on 0800 737 827.

Marisa Bidois is CEO of the Restaurant Association of New Zealand.

Page 44: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012
Page 45: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 43

Food for Thought.

Above: At the Deed of Merger signing are (seated from left to right): Philip Shewell, Retail Institute chairman and Carol Stigley, HSI chair with (standing from left to right) Jill Hatchwell, ATTTO board director, John Albertson, Retail Institute board director, Kathy Wolfe, CEO of ATTTO, and Bruce Robertson, HSI deputy chair. Rick Bettle, ATTTO chair, was unable to attend.

From one unforgettable course to another.Study Culinary and Hospitality at MIT. 0800 62 62 52 | www.manukau.ac.nz

Merger in motionA new merger is currently underway between three key Industry Training Organisations.

Since March 2012, three Industry Training Organisations, the Aviation, Tourism and Travel Training Organisation (ATTTO), Hospitality Standards Institute (HSI) and Retail Institute have been engaged in formal merger discussions. Th is has followed six years of working closely together and collaborating on some key projects.

Last month a Deed of Merger was signed by the ATTTO, HSI and Retail Institute, committing to form a new Industry Training Organisation named the Service Skills Institute. Th ough the Deed of Merger is now signed, it is still subject to certain conditions.

Each ITO must obtain the necessary support for the merger from their respective industry training sectors. Th e parties also need to obtain recognition and extension of coverage from the Tertiary Education Commission and approval, as the standard setting body, from the New Zealand Qualifi cations Authority. Satisfactory completion of fi nancial, legal and other diligence processes is also required.

Th e merger is based on the shared view that it will enable the three ITOs to better protect and promote the interests of our industries and provide a greater voice and forum for the service sector.

Th e planned commencement date for the new organisation is January 1, 2013, with a likely transition period of several months as the three organisations complete the integration process. An important condition of the merger is to retain the key capability including the technical skills, knowledge and expertise of each party to ensure that the new ITO, Service Skills Institute, will be able to eff ectively service and support its industry sectors.

The role of the three existing ITO boards will be picked up in the Industry Advisory Groups within SSI, representing the interests of their industry sector. Each Industry Advisory Group will also nominate two directors to the board, taking up six board positions, with an additional three external independent board members, one of

whom will be a representative of employees, appointed through a board selection process.

During the transition period, the frontline operations of the three current ITOs will continue to function on the current business models, providing the same service. Integration will develop best practice systems and processes, and provide improved services to learners, employers and key stakeholders.

Th e proposed merger is dependent on the support of industry. All three ITOs are now formally seeking support for the merger from their respective industry sectors.

Ken Harris is chief executive of HSI.

Page 46: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

44 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Food for Thought.

Top-class serviceStudy and part-time work in hospitality equals great service.

Sophie Reason is a second-year AUT student studying a Bachelor of International Hospitality Management. She also works part time as a waiter and maître d’ at Monsoon Poon, Auckland. Nicola Richards finds out why Sophie's so good at her job.

What attracted you to hospitality? I love travel, learning about new cultures and people, and enjoying food and drink in new, exciting places. When I was in high school I read about this AUT degree and thought it would be perfect for taking me around the world doing what I love.

What are some of the challenges of work and study?My timetable and work schedule are both very flexible so I am able to make it all balance which is great although sometimes after a full-on day at uni I just want to put my feet up!

How do you apply what you study to your job?So much of what I study in my course helps with my job, especially taking papers such as Beverage Management and other practical service and kitchen hospitality papers. My job has helped me to be able to apply what I learn in theory to real-life situations which is awesome!

What character traits are important in hospitality?Positivity, being genuine and smiley and always being excited about creating an amazing atmosphere for guests are the main traits you need to be successful in hospitality.

What are your future plans?I finish my degree at the end of next year, after which I hope to go and see a lot of the world. I am especially interested in Asia and South America – then I would love to bring my experiences back to New Zealand. I hope to go into a role in human resources within a hospitality setting – either for a large hotel or a restaurant chain.

Nicola Richards runs Monsoon Poon and is chairman of the Service Professional Association of New Zealand (SPANZ).

DANSKE MOBLER COMMERCIAL

Our philosophy is simple – exacting standards and meticulous attention to detail.

From the restaurant to the hotel bedroom to outdoor dining, Danske Møbler has total capacity to design and manufacture bespoke upholstered and wood furniture, regardless of how big or small the project may be.

For unrivalled quality and craftsmanship, along with the confidence of the project being completed on budget and on time, talk to Danske Møbler first.

Excellence in New Zealand madefurniture since 1958

FACTORY AND HEAD OFFICE: 983 Mt Eden Road, Three Kings, AucklandP. 09 625 3900 F. 09 625 0903 E. [email protected]

www.danskemobler.co.nz

Page 47: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 45

Food for Thought.

MASSIVE SUPERSPRING SPECIALS ONLINE!

Above specials only available onlinewww.a1safetynpackaging.co.nz* Carton prices only valid till 30/09/12* *all prices are GST inclusive*

A1 Safety & Packaging NZ Ltd

Serviettes Straws 12oz Smoothie Cup

$24ctn $90ctn $135ctn $86ctn $37ctn $120ctn1000pcs

With Dome Lid

Individually Wrapped

10,000pcs3000pcs

330x600

Foam Food Box

Containers with Lids

500ml

TG288

500 6Roll

Lacy Food wrap

500

Upselling wellMore wine! Knowing the product and your customers’ needs and wants will help you upsell.

A key diff erence between an average and excellent dining experience is arguably the level of service received. If the phrase ‘good service can save a sub-standard meal, but nothing can save bad service’ means anything to you, excellence in service standards should be a key goal.

Upselling is important to the bottom line of a hospitality operation. However, the concept of upgrading, upsizing or selling more of a product must be based on a comprehensive understanding of the products available for sale, the customer’s needs and wants, and an ability to make suggestions that appeal and are appropriate.

Upselling a $10 to $15 glass of wine is going to be of benefi t only if the guest is pleased with the selection. In depth product knowledge, a background story and an understanding of how the wine is going to enhance their enjoyment of a food/wine combination is the way to go – simply suggesting a more expensive wine is not enough.

Th e ‘special’ dishes off ered by the chef can provide an opportunity to sell a more expensive wine not ordinarily off ered ‘by the glass.’ If the manager or sommelier decides to open a bottle of something special for a particular dish, knowledgeable staff members can take this opportunity to add to both the guest’s meal and the restaurant’s bottom line. If the dining experience is enhanced by this, a win-win outcome is achieved.

Here’s another technique: After fi nding out what styles of wine excite guests and which examples on the list meet, or come close to, their desires, off er to open a bottle just for them on an understanding that they purchase a minimum of two glasses. Th e chances of selling a third or fourth glass are high if the wine is then ‘hand sold’ to neighbouring tables who witness the encounter, and in the event that any of the wine is left, it can be used later in the evening for staff training.

Remember to be as fl exible as practical

– off ering ‘tasting size’ pours for a lesser price with individual courses may mean higher sales and happy customers – it’s great for an establishment’s reputation, for host responsibility practice, and provides an opportunity to enhance an experience with appropriate beverages for each course served.

Successful upselling is about developing a team of competent, pro-active and customer-focused staff – and is part of creating exceptional dining experiences.

Cameron Douglas is New Zealand’s fi rst and only Master Sommelier.

Page 48: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

46 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Food for Thought.

Dealing with the messThe Alcohol Law Reform Bill was not the game changer trumpeted by our politicians.

Th e Alcohol Law Reform Bill is all but done and dusted. Th e major debate was around the age of purchase and on that issue at least a sound decision was made. However, it is the rest of the Bill which is going to create a minefi eld for the industry as it deals with the new powers of the Local Alcohol Committee, being one councillor plus two lay persons.

Th is new committee will have enormous power to decline applications for new liquor licences and just as importantly, not renew existing ones based on nebulous factors such as the impact of that licence on the amenity value in that locality.

Th e District Licensing Committee also has powers to impose whatever conditions they think appropriate on any liquor licence. Based on the rhetoric coming out of some councils this is likely to be more restrictive

and costly for licensees.Sadly greater restrictions and fewer licensees

will make little diff erence on eff orts to reduce alcohol harm. With 75 percent of alcohol now consumed away from licensed premises, putting more restrictions on what is already the most responsible service of alcohol simply cannot make the diff erence politicians are looking for from this legislation.

Our Members of Parliament have missed a real opportunity to make a diff erence. Th ey could have reduced the alcohol consumption of those under the age of 18 by having a drinking age at 18 instead of a purchase age. Th ey could have said to New Zealanders it is no longer acceptable to get drunk by making it an off ence to be drunk in a public place. Th ey could have included the power in the legislation to apply minimum pricing

to prevent loss leading from supermarkets.Instead, the new Bill is not the game

changer trumpeted by our politicians and will not reduce harm. It will only increase the compliance burden on hospitality businesses already doing a good job and struggling to survive in a tough market.

Bruce Robertson is the chief executive of Hospitality New Zealand.

Envious no moreDining out in New Zealand is becoming more like Melbourne now.

I love Melbourne, and go there whenever I can. In the past, dining in this food-oriented metropolis was an envy-causing experience simply because there was so much more variation in food styles than was the case here.

But that has changed.Sure, population means that Melbourne has a

lot more of everything, but nowadays our largest cities and towns off er at least a smattering of similar dining experiences.

Want homemade pasta? In Melbourne, Bottega in Bourke Street and Tutto Bene in the Southbank complex are just two of many establishments proudly advertising that they make their own. Few chefs who do so in this country promote the fact. Th ey should. People are interested.

Major cities in both New Zealand and Australia now off er dishes inspired by the cuisines of Italy, Spain, France, Vietnam, Japan, Mexico, various Chinese provinces and many other parts of the world. Melbourne simply has more of them.

One major diff erence between our two countries is in the wine service. Th ings are changing, but in New Zealand it can still be diffi cult to get sound and sensible advice

on choosing the right bottle or glass to accompany a particular meal or dish. In one week in Melbourne, however, not once did we receive the response, “I’m not sure. I’ll send the bar manager/sommelier over.” Th at is still disturbingly common here, particularly away from the major cities.

Making sure that all your staff members are familiar with the dishes on the menu and as many of the wines as is practical isn’t just good business sense. It is an investment in a successful future. Organise regular tastings for the front-of-house and kitchen teams. If the chefs fi nd a particularly good wine match for a dish they’ve created, their thoughts are likely to be picked up enthusiastically by the people in the front line.

Th e best menus are those that include a handful of classics, plus a few that head off in perhaps unexpected directions.

Best new restaurant in Melbourne according to the always-reliable Age Good Food Guide is Pei Modern, at the top end of Collins Street. We enjoyed anchovy shortbreads with parmesan custard, braised rabbit with green olives on toast and grilled octopus with fresh Borlotti beans before moving on to an exemplary steak tartare. Other off erings included pork jowl with

radicchio, lamb sweetbreads with carrots and a beetroot tart with fresh horseradish.

Th e nibbles are Mexican at Mamasita, a block away from Pei Modern, and diners patiently queue for an hour or more most nights for the chance to try a few.

Particular famous are the char-grilled corn cobs, served with a dusting of grated cheese and chilli salsa and a drizzle of lime juice. Th is is street food – tasty, fi lling and moreish.

Nowadays, most of these dining experiences can be approximated on our side of the Tasman, but visiting a diff erent city can still be an inspirational experience. Melbourne is close enough to be a practical choice.

Go there.

Vic Williams is cellar director for the New Zealand Wine Society.

Page 49: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 47

www.hospitalitymag.co.nz

Marketplace.

Mr/Mrs/Ms:

Job Title:

Company:

Type of Business:

Address:

Suburb:

Tel: Fax:

E-mail address:

Enclosed is a cheque $ __________ or debit my: ● Mastercard ● Visa

Expiry: / /

Card Number:

Cardholder’s Name:

Signature:

Cheques payable to : MediawebPost to: Subcriptions Dept, Mediaweb,

FREEPOST 288, PO Box 5544, Wellesley St, Auckland 1141. Fax: (09) 529 3001

● Hospitality | Thirst magazine – $80 for 12 issues

● Espresso – $70 for 12 issues

● Catering New Zealand – $36 for 6 issuesYES I would like to subscribe

to one or more of the following magazines:

Tick

Subscribe onlinewww2.mediaweb.co.nz/shopping

VO

L.

48

O

CT

OB

ER

20

12

INCORPORATING

The in-cider track to success

page 58

The latest hot things inrefrigerationpage 34

Mark Wylie joins The Hip Grouppage 18

HO

SP

ITA

LIT

Y | T

HIR

ST

VO

LU

ME

48

• OC

TO

BE

R 2

012

WW

W.H

OS

PIT

AL

ITY

MA

G.C

O.N

Z

Hospitality | Thirst $80 for 12 issues plus Directory incl GST and post

Mr/Mrs/Ms:

Job Title:

Company:

Address:

Suburb:

Tel: Fax:

E-mail address:

Enclosed is a cheque $ __________ or debit my:

● Mastercard ● Visa

Expiry: / /

Card Number:

Cardholders Name:

Signature:

Cheques payable to : MediawebPost to: Subcriptions Dept, Mediaweb, FREEPOST 288, PO Box 5544, Wellesley St, Auckland 1141. Fax: (09) 529 3001

● Hospitality | Thirst magazine – $80 for 12 issues

● Food & Beverage Today – $70 for 12 issues

● Catering Plus – $36 for 6 issuesYES I would like to subscribe

to one or more of the following magazines:

Tick

Subscribe onlinewww2.mediaweb.co.nz/shopping

VOLUME 46 NO.6

JUNE 2010

S P I R I T O F T H E I N D U S T R Y

Start-ups

entrepreneurs share

their secrets

Must-haves in a great

commercial kitchen

What’s new

latest food trends

Guide to

Fine Food

New Zealand

Cheers for beers

The Panel pops the tops on

a big line-up of brews

Visit us online at

www.hospitalitymag.co.nzINCORPORATING

WORLD’S NUMBER 1

SELLING COMBI

FROM

$8,999

V

rtrtartrtrtararartararepr

eir se

ststusststususMuusMuMmmmmmomomomomo

WhWhWhWhWhWWWWWWWhlate

GGGGGGGGGFFFFFFFFNNNN

s on

pitalit

VOLUME 46 NO.7

JULY 2010S P I R I T O F T H E I N D U S T R Y

Start-ups

four friends share their

pub-buying secrets

Sustainability

look inside three

greener hotels

PLUS highlights from

Fine Food New Zealand

How to get Eftpos-

ready for RWC 2011

Sweet as

The Panel tastes liqueurs

Visit us online at

www.hospitalitymag.co.nzINCORPORATING

VVV

rrrrtrtaaarrartrriir ffffrrbubuu-bbbbub- u

s ontalit

VOLUME 47 NO.5MAY 2011

S P I R I T O F T H E I N D U S T R Y

Sweet asThe Panel tastes liqueurs

Visit us online at www.hospitalitymag.co.nz INCORPORATING

Theinteractive

chef Volker Marecek revitalises hotel dining

The secrets of a great restaurateur

Alittleluxury

See inside the new Sudima hotel

Success story

Hospitality | Thirst $80 for 12 issues plus Directory incl GST and post

Page 50: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

48 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Thanks to Virtue Books we have a copy each of The Modern Vegetarian and Cooking with Quinoa to give

away. To be in to win, call 09 486 0908 or email [email protected].

Congratulations to last month’s winners. A Southern Woman’s Kitchen was won by John Buxton of Dunedin and Esme Ranger of Auckland has won Party Food.

Books can be purchased from Virtue Books. Call 09 486 0908 to secure your copy.

The Modern VegetarianMaria EliaPublished by Kyle Cathie, UK, 2009RRP: $50 Hospitality special: $45

UK chef Elia was an apprentice with Trusthouse Forte and has been head chef at Delfi na, the Whitechapel dining room, and Joe’s in Knightsbridge. She also stars in TV’s Market Kitchen and did a season at El Bulli. Elia has a Greek Cypriot father who has had a huge infl uence on her culinary journey. She shows the versatility of vegetables is an endless adventure. Her recipes are ingenuous and eclectic. I’d like to try Elia’s menu; Watermelon gazpacho, Thai style, followed by butternut squash tagine with buttered chilli couscous and coconut-braised Chinese cabbage leaves, and for dessert a lemongrass, ginger and lime leaf chocolate tart. You too will be inspired by this clever collection of recipes.

Cooking with QuinoaRena PattenPublished by New Holland, Australia, 2011RRP: $45 Hospitality special: $40

Quinoa pronounced keen-wah, is often referred to as a super grain and is gluten free. It is a native of the Andes that has been around for over 5000 years and is still an important food in the South American kitchen. The grain, which is very small, expands to four times its size when cooked. It is available as grain, fl our and fl akes and can vary in colour from white and pale yellow through to red, purple, brown and black. Cooked quinoa has a soft inside and a trail which has crunch and a distinctive slightly nutty taste. To increase the nutty taste, it can be toasted before cooking and can be sprouted. With all these attributes quinoa has a place in all kitchens (especially those with café-style cuisine – you will really need this book.)

Page 51: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012
Page 52: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

FREE PHONE: 0800 699 463 FREE FAX: 0800 329 946 www.hancocks.co.nz

Page 53: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

FREE PHONE: 0800 699 463 FREE FAX: 0800 329 946 www.hancocks.co.nz

Dear Editor,

I’m writing regarding What is your sugar IQ? published in the September issue of Thirst.

I find it hard to see how this article tests one’s “Sugar IQ”, when it mainly provides unsubstantiated statements on sugar and attacks a rival syrup company.

While sugar addiction is a popular talking point, there is no evidence that moderate consumption of sugar is ‘addictive’ or increases risk of disease. Our preference for sweet tastes is actually with us from birth. Sugars are essential nutrients and (in various forms) provide the only fuel for our brains, kidneys and red blood cells, as well as the preferred fuel for our muscles, though they are readily available in almost all foods and they must be consumed responsibly.

In New Zealand, unlike in the USA, high-fructose corn syrup (HFCS) is not used as an ingredient. Cane sugar is more commonly used by food manufacturers. However, HFCS and cane sugar and many other foods with naturally occurring sugars such as fruit, contain the sugars glucose and fructose. The source does not determine how our body uses them - what’s far more important is

the amount we consume, and the context within our overall diet. The World Health Organization recommends a maximum of

10% of dietary energy should come from added sugars. In New Zealand, our median intake of sucrose (a marker for added sugars, but includes all added and natural sources) was just 48g according to the latest adult nutrition survey, which meets this guideline.

It is true refined sugars don’t retain the nutrients of the sugar cane plant from which they are derived, though consuming raw sugar cane is not a viable option. The best way for people to get the nutrients they need, is to consume a good variety of fruits, vegetables and whole grains, while maintaining moderate intakes of low fat protein foods such as lean meat and low fat dairy products and keeping intakes of refined sugars in line with WHO recommendations.

I urge you to reconsider publishing part 2 of this article in your next issue, without some context, substantiation and useful recommendations for people. Factual information regarding sugar can be found on the Sugar Research Advisory website: www.sras.org.nz.

Yours sincerely,

Donnell AlexanderNZ Registered Dietitian and SRAS Secretariat

As is usual with print media, the views expressed by our columnists are not necessarily the views of the magazine or publishers. However we are happy to offer the chance to respond to any of our columnists.

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 51

soapbox.

When Irish pubs are dying

I’ve been back to Ireland for a few weeks and I thought I’d drop into a few old haunts while I was there to check out the bar scene.

Imagine my surprise when I discovered that out of five bars I visited, only two were still open. My surprise turned to sadness when I realised that the other two were only open from 5pm. The trade is really hurting over there as high unemployment, falling wages and an increased trend in drinking at home combine to form the perfect storm.

I spoke to one owner who told me that he could see the rot setting in as far back as 1994, when a strike by Dublin barmen brought the trade to a crashing halt. The workers were sacked and an entire generation of experienced staff found themselves unable to ply their trade. Instead, owners simply drafted in casual staff - many who were Kiwis

on their OE - and the trade of bartender became something much less impressive.

He said the decline in the bar trade started then and has simply gathered pace ever since. I’m not sure if I entirely agree with him, but I can see where he is coming from.

What struck me most, though, was when he asked how badly things were going here in NZ. I was forced to tell him that it wasn’t as bad as Ireland - yet.

I don’t think it will get that bad, either. After all, the recession hit far worse there than here and at least this country is still - just about - solvent and hasn’t had to go begging to the Germans for the metaphorical rent money.

But I did think about what it would mean for the trade here if things did worsen economically. We’ve already got a huge problem with people drinking at home and retaining quality staff is an ongoing issue.

Sure, we’re not having to remain closed until almost dark, but really we can see a few clouds on the horizon if the economic situation doesn’t start looking up a bit.

It’s time for the trade to stick to what it is good at and try to ride out the tough times. After all, we know that down here things will get better eventually. I just hope there are enough bars left open in Ireland to celebrate the day when things finally start looking up there too.

Page 54: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

52 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Beam top eight go for the big one

Beam has announced the finalists in the biggest bartender competition in New Zealand history - the Beam Bar Legend.

From the record 370 bartenders who entered, eight talented contestants have made it through to the final, which will take place over two days on October 7-8 in Auckland.

In no particular order, the finalists are: Adam Neal – Agent’s & Merchants/Racket (Auckland) Jack Sotiriou – 1885 (Auckland) Michael Meharg – Nineteen Eighty One (Auckland) Nicola Heal – Diva’s (Havelock North) Jonny Mackenzie – Cuckoo Cocktail Emporium (Wellington)

Chase Bickerton – The Naughty Penguin (Queenstown) Genevieve Dunne – The Cadillac Club (Queenstown) Jamie Hughes – Toast (Dunedin).

Beam (NZ) marketing director, Rene Bros, is looking forward to the grand final event after a busy few weeks of judging in Auckland, Wellington and Queenstown.

“It has been an exceptionally difficult task selecting only eight grand finalists from 30 of the country’s best bartenders,” he said.  

“In the end, we selected those that stood out as having the total package – great drinks making ability, personality and charisma all of which could make them worthy of claiming the inaugural Beam Bar Legend title,” he added.

To claim their grand f inals spot, bar tenders par t icipated in f i lmed interviews with Beam Brand Ambassador, Calem Chadwick. Each bartender was asked a number of questions that aimed

to give Beam (NZ) a full insight into their experience, portfolio knowledge and personality. In addition, the 30 semi-f inalists were challenged to create their interpretation of the ultimate Jim Beam and Cola using one of the Jim Beam branded bourbons.

The top eight will participate in the grand f inal where they will complete a series of tasks in their bid to be crowned New Zealand ’s inaugural Beam Bar Legend. The winner will walk away with a prize pack valued at more than $25,000.

This includes an all expenses paid trip to a Beam distillery of their choice (Kentucky, Canada, the Caribbean, France, Scotland), an expense card valued at up to $10,000 and a $5000 party for their bar.

Page 55: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

What’s new.

Crystal Head vodka was designed by actor Dan Aykroyd and is inspired by legend. Like Aykroyd, it’s Canadian in origin and presented in incredibly cool bottles designed by American artist John Alexander. It’s made in Newfoundland, as far from a major city as possible (1200 miles) and distilled four times. And it’s not just pretty, winning double gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition last year.

Hancocks has announced two new lines to hit the shelves this

month, with a brand new look at an old favourite and a cool new

vodka from a Hollywood legend.

Jagermeister is fi nally launching a RTD version of its famous brand, with two variants on the market. Arriving in 330ml cans with a RRP of $19.99 a four-pack, Jagermeister Raw (with guarana) and Ginger Lime are 6.5%abv versions of the world’s eighth-biggest selling spirit.

Page 56: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

54 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

the Good get goingSouthern-based Good Group is selling off two bars from its Queenstown stable and

expanding into the Auckland market as part of a new focus on premium bar precincts.

By sue Fea

Skybar sold last month to an Invercargill investor while Harry’s Pool Bar is still on the market.

That leaves the central Queenstown precinct of Bardeaux, Mini Bar and Barmuda.

Good Group chief executive and director Russell Gray says the company is moving out of the pool bar type concept to concentrate on its premium precincts, including an

expansion into the Auckland market.“We’re now focusing on premium level bars

and neither of those two Queenstown bars fit that strategy anymore.”

Good Group sister company Safari Hospitality opened the company’s third Botswana Butchery Restaurant on The Quay in Auckland in March, which is managed by Kieran Turnbull. It has now bought

well-known Auckland eatery Harbourside Seafood Restaurant, which is upstairs, and takes over ownership of that from October 1. Both Auckland properties – each about 400 to 500 square metres in size – are significantly restaurant focused but also have premium bars.

“Harbourside was on the market, became available and it fitted with our strategy of having precincts,” says Gray.

Page 57: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 55

“We’re keen to grow our presence bigger in the Auckland market so two large-scale businesses so close together seemed to make sense.”

Long-time Harbourside owner Tony Adcock has agreed to stay on for a year as general manager to assist in the transition.

Botswana and Harbourside will be internally connected via a staircase so customers can drink or dine in either restaurant or bar.

The Botswana Butchery brand was launched in Wanaka in 2006 and the company opened the Queenstown Botswana on the Marine Parade waterfront in 2008.

Good Group hopes to expand the Botswana brand even further in the future once the company feels it’s gained the necessary traction in the Auckland market and Gray believes they’re already doing that well.

Queenstown-based Gray will also move to Auckland this month [October] to manage the company’s operations there.

“We felt with two substantial businesses and in excess of 100 staff we needed one director up there.”

He will help oversee a full $1 million to $2 million refurbishment of Harbourside in June and July next year.

“It will be a big refit. We’ll be completely gutting it. We’ll keep the name and it will stay a premium seafood restaurant.”

Selling Harry’s and Skybar would free up the capital to reinvest and expand the company’s new Auckland operations.

“Our experience is in those premium type products, not in discounting, cheaper type products. Ours is premium high end,” says Gray.

Queenstown had been “flooded” with the

discounted backpacker bar, type concept.“There’s been a global financial crisis and

there’s been a lot of focus on price, but that’s a short-term strategy and we are more interested in a long-term focus.”

Good Group was founded by Queenstown businessman Al Spary with just one bar and has grown into more than 20 businesses with more than 200 staff employed nationally – 40 percent of them in the Queenstown Lakes District and 60 percent in either Christchurch or Auckland. It also owns Bingbong bar in Queenstown Airport and the adjacent Airport Cafe.

In addition to its remaining three premium Queenstown bars and Botswana Butchery Restaurant, Good Group owns Botswana Butchery in Wanaka, Woody’s and Barluger. It also now owns a prime Merivale precinct of Aikman’s and Bardello in Christchurch.

Page 58: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

WE COULDN’T MAKE IT TASTE ANY BETTER...

...SO THIS WAS THE ONLY OPTION.

WE COULDN’T MAKE IT TASTE ANY BETTER...

As the World’s Number 1 Bourbon, tasting any better would be difficult. So all our clever people sat round and decided to try and make it look as good as it tastes. With a fresh new market leading design, the Jim Beam white range will still be instantly recognisable with its clean white packaging, but will now be even more irresistible. Hmm.....but really, as good as it tastes?!

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT YOUR LOCAL BEAM GLOBAL REPRESENTATIVE ON 0508 BEAM GLOBAL (0508 232 6456) WWW.JIMBEAM.CO.NZ

As the World’s Number 1 Bourbon, tasting any better would be difficult. So all our clever people sat round and decided to try and make it look as good as it tastes. With a fresh new market leading design, the Jim Beam

...SO THIS WAS THE ONLY OPTION.

Page 59: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

WE COULDN’T MAKE IT TASTE ANY BETTER...

...SO THIS WAS THE ONLY OPTION.

WE COULDN’T MAKE IT TASTE ANY BETTER...

As the World’s Number 1 Bourbon, tasting any better would be difficult. So all our clever people sat round and decided to try and make it look as good as it tastes. With a fresh new market leading design, the Jim Beam white range will still be instantly recognisable with its clean white packaging, but will now be even more irresistible. Hmm.....but really, as good as it tastes?!

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT YOUR LOCAL BEAM GLOBAL REPRESENTATIVE ON 0508 BEAM GLOBAL (0508 232 6456) WWW.JIMBEAM.CO.NZ

...SO THIS WAS THE ONLY OPTION.

Page 60: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

58 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

the panel. Cider.

The in-cider track to success

Cider is still booming and it’s a growing sector with a buoyant present and a great future.

It’s been a while coming, but cider continues to push itself forward as not just a quality drink, but as a sector in its own right, rather than simply an adjunct to the beer sector.

In the past decade, cider has emerged from the depths it found itself in – unloved, unwanted and often undrinkable – and recreated itself with the spirit and joie de vivre of someone coming out of a lousy relationship. No longer staid, dull and uninteresting, it’s now sexy, sharp and a smart choice for the discerning drinker.

It’s fi tting, too, that we have a cider tasting in October’s issue. After all, in the northern cider world this is the harvest time, when the cider apples get plucked from their trees and turned into the golden liquid so many know and love. Autumn is a reminder of just how long people have been making cider

in England. Indeed, West Country cider makers have a fair claim to have invented the Champagne method of making drinks bubbly, many centuries before French monk Dom Perignon stole the limelight.

Here in New Zealand it isn’t autumn and it’s nowhere near harvest time either, but it’s still a signifi cant time for cider. Once the psychological mark of Labour Weekend is reached, it is essentially summer, even if the weather and the weathermen don’t often agree. And summer is increasingly cider time.

With its sharp tang, crisp fi zz and appealing fl avours, cider – whether made from apples, pears, both or a mixture of apples and berries – is the perfect summer drink; cold, fresh and thirst-quenching. It’s also being asked for more often, as the cider boom picks up pace.

With more people buying it and more

people drinking it, it’s no surprise to learn that more people are making it too. In New Zealand there are more small cider makers bringing drinks to the market, while the bigger producers continue to commit to the category’s future with more styles and more promotional muscle being employed.

Th e only real question is which one to stock and the only simple answer to that is simply to stock the one that will sell to your customers. Listen to them and fi nd out what they want to drink. Or try some yourself and then try them out on your customers,which is what our tasting is all about this month, with a wide selection of ciders involved.

Whichever way you decide to go, don’t overlook this lively and lucrative sector of the drinks market. After all, we all need to take more fruit.

Bulmers oriGinal ciDer 330ml (4 pacK) 500ml (12 pacK)Copper colour with a fi rm fruit nose that smells like cider, not apples. Nice touch of yeastiness and a fi rm, tight palate the fi nishes mild and dry.

Treasury Wine Estates New ZealandPhone: 0800 367 [email protected]

Bulmers pear ciDer 330ml (4 pacK) 500ml (12 pacK)Brass/gold colour is assertively bright. Mild, mellow product with fruit characters and a soft texture.

Treasury Wine Estates New ZealandPhone: 0800 367 [email protected]

Page 61: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 59

the panel. Cider.

isaac’s apple ciDer 330ml (6 pacK, 12 pacK)Very apply, bubbly, tasty product with a crisp palate and sweet fi nish. Nicely textured mousse. Delightful.

LionPhone: 0800 10 72 [email protected]

isaac’s Berry ciDer 330ml (6 pacK, 12 pacK)Looks and smells like old fashioned raspberry soft drink. Very berryish and sweet fl avoured with a refreshing lilt. Simple, easy style.

LionPhone: 0800 10 72 [email protected]

isaac’s pear ciDer 330ml (6 pacK, 12 pacK)Interesting nose has clear pear notes. Fresh palate with bright acidity and a clean taste delivering a juicy fi nish. Pleasant.

LionPhone: 0800 10 72 [email protected]

monteitH’s crusHeD pear ciDer 330ml (24 pacK)Woody, pear-like nose and a simple, pleasant palate that is light and pretty.

Redwood Cider Co.Phone: 0800 CIDERS (243377)[email protected]

★STAR of the SHOW

apple & elDerFloWer ciDer 500 ml (12 pacK) Cloudiness comes from bottle conditioning which gives this drink its extra charge of individuality and character. Elderfl ower nose is very attractive and fi rm, with a nice measure of apple adding to its complex fl oral/lees notes. Inviting, complex with a ginger beer feel about it, good fruit fl avour intensity and a complex trail of fl avours at the fi nish.

Negociants New ZealandPhone: 0800 634 [email protected]

Keith Stewart and David Batten.

Page 62: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

60 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

the panel. Cider.

monteitH’s crusHeD summer Berries ciDer 330ml (24 pacK)Rosé coloured with a dark, fresh berry fruit aroma. Mildly fruit fl avoured palate is very berryish, sweet and easy. A good drink.

Redwood Cider Co.Phone: 0800 CIDERS (243377)[email protected]

olD mout passionFruit & ciDer 330ml (24 pacK)Pale, with a cidery nose that is charged with expressive passionfruit. Soft, easy drink with heaps of passionfruit character that fi nishes dry and satisfying. Light, fresh and emphatically passionfruity.

Redwood Cider Co.Phone: 0800 CIDERS (243377)[email protected]

olD mout FeiJoa & ciDer 330ml (24 pacK)Fresh strong feijoa aromas on the nose. Bright and inviting with a good mousse and bags of fruit. A girlie’s delight, dry and very modern.

Redwood Cider Co.Phone: 0800 CIDERS (243377)[email protected]

speiGHt’s ciDer 330ml (6 pacK, 12 pacK)Hints of meal on the nose with apply character and a fi rm palate. Crisp, lively bubbles.

LionPhone: 0800 10 72 [email protected]

saXton apple ciDer 330ml (4-pacK)Bright golden colour with a mellow but crunchy apple nose and plenty of sweet apple fl avours, charming with nicely polite bubbles and attractive fruit fi nish.

Countdown SupermarketsPhone: 0800 40 40 40www.mccashins.co.nz

reKorDerliG premium apple & BlacKcurrant ciDer 500ml (15 pacK)Polished red colour is epic cassis, dark and mysterious. Strong fruit/essence nose and a very smart palate that is both sophisticated and refreshing. Long blackcurrant impregnated fi nish is delightful.

Redwood Cider Co.Phone: 0800 CIDERS (243377)[email protected]

Page 63: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 61

the panel. Cider.

reKorDerliG premium manGo-raspBerry ciDer 500ml (15 pacK)Beautiful colour is immediately sophisticated, like a Sri Lankan ruby. Fragrant nose is strongly aromatic, fruit fi lled and diffi cult to identify precisely. Firm palate structure is excellent, balanced and constructed to carry the fruit fl avours well. Consummately professional.

Redwood Cider Co.Phone: 0800 CIDERS (243377)[email protected]

WeKa pear ciDer 330ml (4 pacK)Light lemon gold colour is very appealing. Mildly spicy with a lively mousse. Attractive, fruit fl avours with a hint of pear and a linger fruit character that is crisp and clean.

Treasury Wine Estates New ZealandPhone: 0800 367 [email protected]

WeKa apple ciDer 330ml (4 pacK)Yes, that is oak, vanilla like and sliding in with the bouquet alongside bits of apple. Fresh apple fl avours through the palate, which is clean, light and simple. A pleasant drop.

Treasury Wine Estates New ZealandPhone: 0800 367 [email protected]

ZeFFer apple ciDer 330ml (24 pacK) 500ml (12 pacK)Warm, cooked apple nose and plenty of lively bubbles give this plenty of enthusiasm. Crisp and fresh, a thirst quencher.

EurovintagePhone: 09 588 4262 or 0800 338 [email protected]

ZeFFer pear ciDer 330ml (24 pacK) 500ml (12 pacK)Smells like apples, tastes like pear, light and cidery. Juicy fruit fl avour throughout and ends dry and lingering with more fruit to go.

EurovintagePhone: 09 588 4262 or0800 338 [email protected]

ZeFFer slacK ma GirDle ciDer 750ml (12 pacK)Mealy lees characters on the nose with plenty of fi rm, crunchy apple fl avours throughout. Snappy apple fruit leads to a clear, dry fi nish. Yum.

EurovintagePhone: 09 588 4262 or 0800 338 [email protected]

Page 64: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

What is your suGar iQ?

part 2

Last month we started to look at sugars in our drinks, so let’s continue to examine how different sugars affect us.

By tomas ViKario, BeVeraGe innoVation manaGer; monin, perrier, taBasco, illy

Beet & Cane Sugars ('good guys')Cane sugar has been popular worldwide since the beginning of the 19th century. Sucrose is the sugar produced from both beets and sugar cane. Tropical climates produce sugar cane. When harvested, the sugar cane is cut and juice is extracted. Th e juice is then clarifi ed and boiled. Th e resulting crystals are put in a centrifuge. Th e large crystals of raw sugar are then sent to refi neries. At the refi neries, molasses and other debris is washed off . Th e crystals are dissolved in water, seed crystals are added, and, when dried, refi ned sucrose is the result.

One statistic says that the only quality cane sugar syrup in the NZ market is Monin syrup. Monin brand goes through a staggering average of 10, 23-tonne truckloads of sugar beet every week, and this is only in their French production plant (in the US and Australasia all Monin syrups are based on cane sugar).

Corn sugar (HFCS) or ‘bad guy’ controversyTh e astronomic rise in obesity, diabetes and heart disease in many global countries since the introduction of HFCS has led many to believe that it may be dangerous. Th e American Chemical Society conference in 2007 noted that alarmingly high levels of something called reactive carbonyls are in HFCS. Th ey are known to cause tissue damage and are also found in high levels in people with diabetes.

Other sweeteners on the market Aspartame: after a study showed a possible link between sodium saccharin and cancer, aspartame came on the scene. Some studies claim that the body can convert it to ethanol, making it potentially dangerous in high amounts.

Sucralose: better known as Splenda, a more natural alternative. Won marketplace acceptance for being ‘made from sugar’. It has its own fans and detractors. Critics claim it is no longer natural in its fi nal form.

Stevia: Stevia has seemingly everything going for it. It is natural, made from leaf, and even has roots in ancient world cultures. Stevia is a 100 percent natural sweetener that is derived from the leaves of a South American shrub. Stevia contains no additives and tastes like real sugar. Stevia is a healthier alternative to other sweeteners because it contains a zero glycemic index and contains no harmful chemicals that can interfere with the body’s digestive system.

Flavoured sugar syrupsI was lucky enough to spend some time in Monin's production plants in France and Malaysia.

Th e fi rst part of the proces of making Monin’s huge range of sugar syrups is to turn powdered sugar into liquid sugar and this is done by using a computer-controlled dissolving installation which processes

62 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

tomas Vikario .

Page 65: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Get inspired by Herbs this spring with monin!

Discover ultimate recipes on www.monin.com

Contact your Stuart Alexander sales representative for more information or call Consumer Services,

phone 0800 188 484

MONIN Green Mint SyrupGreen Mint’s refreshing and cooling proprieties make it one of the most appreciated and used herbs in the world. Monin Green Mint Syrup has a strong peppermint smell, refreshing mint mouth feel and is complimented by a deep emerald green colour to welcome spring in style.

MONIN Mojito Syrupthe famous Mojito cocktail was born in the sultry bars of pre-revolutionary Havana. Skilled bartenders called upon the local abundance of wild mint “yerbabuena”, cane sugar, lime and rum to create a refreshing cocktail sensation that flavoured the sensual cuban nightlife. With MONIN Mojito Mint’s refreshing taste and aroma combination of mint and lime flavours, making mojitos is now easy. Just combine with rum, sparkling mineral water and a squeeze of lime!

Embrace the season and incorporate the flavour of fresh herbs into your cocktails.

GREEN MINT FIZZIngredients

• 10ml MONIN Mojito Mint syrup

• 20ml MONIN Green Mint syrup

• 45ml gin

• 2 lemon wedges

• Perrier Lemon

In the bottom of the Highball glass muddle the lemon wedges with MONIN flavouring. cover with crushed ice. Add gin and stir to combine. Add more crushed ice and top with chilled Perrier Lemon. Decorate with fresh mint sprigs.

10 tonnes per hour. Th e syrup is then held at 50C and continuously stirred in the tanks, to prevent crystallisation, until needed for production. Using this solution base, Monin then adds the various fl avours to make a vast range of syrups. Th e blending of these fl avours with the hot sugar syrup is a sophisticated computer-controlled operation. Th e resulting syrup goes through a fl ash pasteruriser heat exchanger. Moulds and yeasts are killed at temperatures above 60C so this process sterilises the syrup. Ingredients and the person responsible for overseeing every aspect of the manufacture of a batch of syrup is recorded in the lot number lasered onto the the side of every bottle.

Why I am saying all of this? Homemade syrups are widely popular. Every NZ bartender wants to create his own (simple) sugar syrup. Every second bar is creating their own sugar creation using the cheapest sugar crystals they can buy. Every once in a while we can fi nd new locally crafted sugar syrups in NZ stores (the latest is a Wellington-made soda syrup claiming there is no better syrup in the country). Th ose bottles are without back labels and without any indicators of what type of sugar is used. What is the shelf life of those products? Creating home-made sugar syrups in who knows what conditions may show the craft but how safe are those syrups? And I'm not talking only about the syrups here, what about all the locally produced sodas that Kiwis are so proud of? I loved Michael Van De Elzen's TV show ‘Food Truck’, when he well explained the importance of good ingredients vs globally produced soda brands.

Modern consumer is looking for colour and flavour – how natural is 'natural' flavour?Typically the natural fl avour is simply not fl avoursome enough on its own and will need to be enhanced using what we call ‘nature-identical’ fl avourings. Unlike many of its global and NZ local competitors, Monin never uses artifi cial fl avours. All products are GM free, approved by a British consortium and are kosher and halal. Th e diff erence between ‘nature identical’ fl avourings and ‘artifi cial’ or ‘synthetic’ fl avourings is complex but simply put; nature-identical fl avourings are made using fl avour molecules that exist naturally but are not sourced from the original product whose fl avour is to be replicated. Th ey are obtained by synthesis or isolated through chemical processes. Artifi cial fl avourings come from substances not identifi ed in a natural product fi t for human consumption. It is very common in NZ for local producers to mimic the fl avour of natural vanilla by vanillin, which is found in chicory and other plants, whilst ethyl is a totally artifi cial vanilla fl avouring.

Th e fl avours are typically produced by fractional distillation and chemical manipulation of naturally sourced chemicals such as crude oil or coal tar. Th e vanillin molecule occurs organically in nature while the ethyl is a man made molecule so is not used by Monin. Tests conducted by the biggest global fl avour company Prova, show that the syrup market is overfl owing with cheap and artifi cial vanilla fl avorings. Together with the artifi cial fl avourings, the Prova tests found that sugar levels in almost every domestic syrup and several imported brands are way too sweet and the vanillin too dominant.

I suggest limiting the intake of any form of sugar, whether glucose, fructose or sucrose. Read the labels on the back and do not trust anything ‘they’ say. Bartenders, be proud of your home made syrups, but please think twice before you use the cheapest sugar that you can fi nd. Bar owners, make sure that your bar serves quality drinks and that each cocktail is consistent in its quality. Sometimes the only thing and the easiest way to reach perfection is to use a proven recipe and proven quality – use Monin fl avorings.

Page 66: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

64 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

The Panel. Herbal/Fruit Distillates.

Bar eXpeDitionA journey into the wilds of bitter

flavour and astringency.The Oak Room seemed to be the right place to be for such an heroic adventure as this expedition by intrepid Thirst explorers into the often shady realms of bitterness and astringency. In the domestically correct world of wine, oak is in fact the tame astringent, that carefully manicured container which delivers a frisson of forest to the most benign of wines.

But bartenders are more adventurous folk, as even a passing nudge of a bottle of Fernet Branca can attest. They are prepared to go to the mysteries of bitterness and the often fractious mannerisms of astringency with

their bare hands and the tools of a mere shaker and some ice.

So for our journey to the depths of the proprietary concoctions of herbs, spices and assorted exotic vegetation we took along a trio of mixer-guides whose professional taste and brinkmanship were well established. We were not disappointed, and they cosseted our tastebuds through a tingling variety of textures and aromas that often ended with a flavour subsidance of landslide proportions.

Leading on the trail of quinine and its often dangerous associates was Sean Roiall,

resident native tracker at the Oak Room and a man of deft skills and effortless guile. Alongside was Adam Neil from Raquet Bar a perspicuous and subtle blender of taste tales and the man from Monin, Chris Turner.

Riding in some comfort in the Thirst cohort were myself, Keith Stewart, and Dave Batten, old palates with plenty of bitter miles on them and enough interest not to be scared off by mere shadows. So in we went, starting with a relatively mild selection of vermouths, those oddly spice concoctions that take their name from wormwood (wermut: German).

Page 67: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 65

the panel. Herbal/Fruit Distillates.

anticaWonderfully complex, intriguing nose has elements of globe artichokes and barrel age characters enhanced by spice, bark and bitter/astringent complexities amongst all the fl avour. Rich and multilayered with wonderful mouth feel and just enough medicinal character to retain its interest in this company. Extremely subtle with a profoundly bitter trace at the end of a long, long fi nish. A master-class in bitters.

$$$$

Ian McAteer & AssociatesPhone: 09 476 [email protected]

cHartreuse cassis 500mlIntense, lush fruit aromas with a touch of fragrance. Pure fruit concentration with layers of complexity and a sustained fi nish. Very classy.

$$

Ian McAteer & AssociatesPhone: 09 476 [email protected]

cHartreuse Green 700ml Complex bouquet is all fl oral lift and sustained herbals with a palate that is by clever design fi lled with juxtapositions of sweet fl oral/fruit character and intriguing details of a multitude of herbs. Finishes with a sweet/dry/astringent counterpoint that is almost addictive.

$$$$$

Ian McAteer & AssociatesPhone: 09 476 [email protected]

campariFragrant, peel dominated nose with a hearty tang of bark astringency. Complex and positive, classic. Light, bitter fl avours are keen and sustained, building through the fi nish. The ultimate mixer.

$$$$

Beam New ZealandPhone: 09 915 [email protected]

cHartreuse yelloW 700mlSimilar to its green sister, but more gentle and sweet in manner. They say that heaven is 50% green and 50% yellow, if so this one is the melody.

$$$$

Ian McAteer & AssociatesPhone: 09 476 [email protected]

aperol 700mlCampari light, with a fruity hint that is suggestive of rhubarb, and excellent intensity. Excellent bitter characters linger well at the fi nish, explaining why it is gaining in popularity as consumers look for lighter versions of the classics.

$$$

Beam New ZealandPhone: 09 915 [email protected]

$$$$$ - 50 and up • $$$$ - 40-50 • $$$ - 30-40 • $$ - 20-30 •$ - 20 and under

★STAR of the SHOW

Page 68: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

66 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

the panel. Herbal/Fruit Distillates.

cinZano eXtra DryPeely aromas with a mild astringency through peel and bark fl avours. Sophisticated palate, neatly dry at the fi nish with a good lingering bitterness.

$$

Beam New ZealandPhone: 09 915 [email protected]

Dolin VermoutH premium DryGentle in character with some nice fruity notes. Dry, subtle fi nish is mild and easy.

$

Maison VauronPhone: 09 529 [email protected]

cinZano BiancoBrisk nose has distinct elements of orange peel and a wave of bitterness under some mellow wine characters. Excellent balance between sweetness and sustained spice/bitter astringency.

$$

Beam New ZealandPhone: 09 915 [email protected]

Dolin VermoutH premium BlancMore spicy than herbal on the nose, with some dry/herbal infusion fl avours and an oxidative character. Mellow, understated style with a sweet fi nish.

$

Maison VauronPhone: 09 529 [email protected]

cinZano rossoSpicy/peel/bark aromatics with a sweet intensity of fl avour across the palate. Mellow fl avour and a good bitterness that is sustained through the fi nish. Nice balance

$$

Beam New ZealandPhone: 09 915 [email protected]

Fernet Branca 700mlThis is medicinal, powerfully bitter with a strong aroma of wintergreen and intense bark-like fl avours twisted with astringency. Flavours of mint/pine and a trail of furry, astringent texture. All assertive power and uncompromising fl avour.

$$$$

Ian McAteer & AssociatesPhone: 09 476 [email protected]

Page 69: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

www.shott.co.nzfacebook.com/shottbeverages

MAKE COCKTAILS WITH PASSION

monteneGro amaro 750mlMildly aromatic, citrus peel infused nose with a vanilla perfume. Very fragrant which marks it out from the rest in this tasting. Palate is also fragrant, soft edged and just hinting at astringency by comparison.

$$

A Touch of ItalyPhone: 0800 4 286 824sales@touchofi taly.co.nzwww.eatily.co.nz

punt e mesConcentrated, almost medicinal nose with plenty of both bitterness and astringency on the palate, balanced carefully with fl avour in depth and length. Has substance and lingering bitterness.

$$

Ian McAteer & AssociatesPhone: 09 476 [email protected]

monteneGro rosso antico 700mlAstringency and a delicious fragrance of pomegranate across the nose. Hints of peel fl avour and bark bitterness in a tasty, well fl avoured palate. Finishes with a sweet/bitter trail.

$$

A Touch of ItalyPhone: 0800 4 286 824sales@touchofi taly.co.nzwww.eatily.co.nz

Page 70: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

68 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

The Panel. Herbal/Fruit Distillates.

cinZano martineZ45ml Cinzano Bianco20ml Gordon’s Gin3 dashes orange bitters,Mix over ice and strain. Serve with lemon zest.

satan’s WHisKers15ml Dolin Blanc15ml Cinzano Rosso10ml Grand Marnier15ml Gordon’s Gin15ml fresh orange juiceTeaspoon orange bittersMix over ice, strain and serve.

numBer 5230ml Punt e Mes10ml Monin Pêche30ml Tresilian Pinot NoirMix and serve over ice, with a twist.

BouleVarDier45ml Bourbon20ml Campari30ml Antica FormulaStir with ice. Serve.

sour turKey50ml Wild Turkey Bourbon10ml Monin Pêche20ml lemon juiceEgg whiteShaken with ice, strained, add 10ml Fernet Branca float.

Girls’ BreaKFast50ml Chambord30ml Amaro Montenegro45ml pineapple juice20ml Smirnoff VodkaEgg whiteShake over ice, strain, serve.

Vatican DaiQuiri40ml Zumwohl Kirsh 6620ml Green Chartreuse20ml Monin Elderflower20ml fresh lime juice.Shake with ice, strain, serve.

Kir royalePour Peres Chartreuse Cassis and top with Pol Roger Brut.

luXury neGroni30ml Gin20ml Campari20ml Antica FormulaMix with ice, serve.

Page 71: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

WWW.ZUMWOHL.CO.NZ

INNOVATIVE BARTENDER SERIES

a toast to New York Th e Apartment Bar is no ordinary bar and neither is the man who runs it, Andrew Donald.

Set up like a chic New York-style loft apartment complete with its own bedroom, the bar evokes Big Apple cool. Its large selection of New York cocktails, both classic and contemporary, rival those you may fi nd in an upscale New York bar.

Even Peter Jackson has been known to party there.

General manager Andrew Donald says among the bar’s most notable recent functions were two birthday parties for Th e Hobbit stars, Martin Freeman (Bilbo Baggins) and Andy Serkis (Gollum), attended by Jackson and cast members.

He says people are drawn to the bar because of its classic, timeless sophisticated style and go there to experience something diff erent from other bars.

“We get a wide spectrum of clientele due to the bar’s unique atmosphere and the way we serve our beverages. Sometimes people can feel uncomfortable walking into a cocktail bar so we work hard at being approachable and making people feel at ease and special.”

Bartending styleFor Andrew it’s not just about serving a drink. He loves to interact with people and match them with the perfect cocktail for their needs. “I listen to them and try and empathise with how they are feeling and what they want to get out of the occasion.”

What’s new in cocktails?He says because of its versatility as a cocktail ingredient, ZUMWOHL has bought some excitement to the bar scene, inspiring bartenders to create new and exciting cocktails.

What people are drinking there…Th e bar serves far more cocktails than wine. Popular choices include the Old-Fashioned, East Hampton and various martinis. “People want to try something diff erent and be surprised.”

Favourite cocktailAny classic. “Th ey have a tried-and-true recipe but everybody enjoys them a little diff erently.”

Andrew Donald, general manager, The Apartment Bar, 25 Allen St, Wellingtonwww.theapartment.co.nz

Page 72: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

70 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Wine. Sauvignon Blanc.

sauvignon –the shining star

Say what you like about sauvignon blanc – and many people have – you can’t deny its huge popularity, which shows no sign whatsoever of weakening.

Sauvignon’s success is easy to understand – it took the world by storm back in the late 1980s and New Zealand’s wine reputation was assured when Marlborough sauvignon wowed wine critics and casual punters alike, right across the world.

Before the bright, zingy New Zealand wines hit the shelves, sauvignon tended to be a bit fl at, a bit non-descript and just plain boring. Kiwi sauvignon, on the other hand, was bright, packed with fl avour and incredibly refreshing. It was just what the world was looking for – a really good food wine that could also be enjoyed on its own without worrying too much about palate weight or oak infl uence.

Clean, crisp and charming, sauvignon has

been a banker for wineries in New Zealand for more than 30 years now and the rate we consume it at shows little sign of slackening off . In fact, there are more sauvignon labels than ever these days and it can be the devil’s own job trying to decide what to buy.

Sauvignon’s success hasn’t all been a one-way road, though. Chardonnay challenged its popularity in the 90s and pinot gris has been gnawing away at it for the past decade. But they have never managed to topple sauvignon from its pole position.

Flavour-wise, the grape is all about freshness, with typical descriptors including gooseberry, grass, capsicum and citrus. Recently, there has been a return to the practice of oak-ageing a portion of the

wine to give added complexity and depth. Th ere has often been an element of this in the more expensive sauvignons, but it is spreading to the more aff ordable versions now, combining fi nesse with great value. Some wineries are even making fully oaked sauvignon, harking back to the glory days of fume blanc.

But oaked or not, complex or simple, racy and green from Marlborough or ripe and tropical from Hawke’s Bay, sauvignon remains the people’s choice and any bar that doesn’t hold plenty of stock of it is backing the wrong horse. To that end we checked out some likely looking sauvignon this month, under the watchful eye of our proxy Panel leader Keith Stewart.

David Batten and Keith Stewart.

Page 73: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

OctOber 2012 . Hospitality/tHirst . 71

Wine. Sauvignon Blanc.

tHe neD sauViGnon Blanc 2012 Perfumed nose has abundant fruit and a leesy/yeast character that adds to its appeal. Layers of sweet fruit and lively fl avour deliver a pleasing complexity, complemented by a fi rm, dry-ish fi nish.

$

Lion.Phone: 0800 10 72 [email protected]

sacreD Hill oranGe laBel marlBorouGH sauViGnon Blanc 2012Aromatically fruity with hints of guava and a trace of capsicum. Bright and tropical throughout with good weight. Fades away slightly at the end. Good intensity.

$$

Sacred Hill Wine CompanyPhone: 0800 WINECO (946 326)[email protected]

yealanDs estate reserVe sauViGnon Blanc 2011Fresh nose with some unusual lager-like notes. Light and mild in both fl avour and character with herbal hints and a slight mineral cast at the fi nish. Complex and easy going wine.

$$$

Yealands Wine GroupPhone: 03 575 [email protected]

yealanDs estate sinGle BlocK series BlocK s1 sauViGnon Blanc 2012Again full colour for such a young wine. Very lively, piercing fruit/acid juxtaposition on the nose with a smudge of gun fl int. Light fl avour with a racy character incline it towards the elegant end of the style spectrum. Good intensity, dry fi nish.

$$$

Yealands Wine GroupPhone: 03 575 [email protected]

*Expected to be released in November.

yealanDs estate sauViGnon Blanc 2012Ripe green/straw colour is dark for such a young wine. Tangy nose supported by a fi rm palate that has an element of elegance about it. Tropical and citrus fl avours in abundance and a slightly brisk fi nish that has a slight mineral tone. Stylish wine.

$$$

Yealands Wine GroupPhone: 03 575 [email protected]

★STAR of the SHOW

$$$$$ - 30 and up • $$$$ - 20-30 • $$$ - 15-20 • $$ - 10-15 •$ - Under 10

Page 74: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Proudly Distributed by Federal Geo Limited - Ph: 0800 846 824 | E: [email protected]

alpHa Domus Barnstormer syraH 2011It’s nice to see a wine live up to its name – this is a real barnstormer of a wine, with a vibrant plum and pepper nose followed up by soaring, swooping fruit fl avours and a lovely fi nish with echoes of tobacco and cedar. A belter.

$$$

Negociants New ZealandPhone: 0800 634 [email protected]

elepHant Hill rose 2011Cherry and loganberry on the nose give this wine the promise of summer and it certainly delivers. The palate is almost creamy, with broad summer fruit fl avours and a nice acid spine to keep it fresh and zesty. Perfect summer drinking.

$$$

Procure LiquorPhone: 09 376 9385 or021 866 [email protected]

WHiteHaVen rose 2012The taste of summer in a glass – bright red and redolent of strawberries on the nose, this unfolds on the palate into a nicely weighted wine, offering enough texture and weight to be interesting and enough light berry fl avour to still be a fun wine for the longer evenings.

$$$

Whitehaven Distribution Ltd – Danny PhippsPhone: 021 738 [email protected]

WHiteHaVen cHarDonnayBrilliant wine, from a sadly overlooked producer, this has a glorious riot of ripe fruit on the nose, with nectarines, peach and fresh lemon all fi ghting it out. On the palate it has lovely weight and a touch of the savoury that really makes for an interesting and rewarding drink.

$$$

Whitehaven Distribution Ltd – Danny PhippsPhone: 021 738 [email protected]

72 . Hospitality/tHirst . OctOber 2012

Wine. Top Glass. Top Glass is a new feature where editor Don Kavanagh rounds up the pick of the wines he's tried in the last month and recommends the best by-the-glass options for bars and restaurants.

$$$$$ - 30 and up • $$$$ - 20-30 • $$$ - 15-20 • $$ - 10-15 •$ - Under 10

Page 75: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

Proudly Distributed by Federal Geo Limited - Ph: 0800 846 824 | E: [email protected]

Page 76: Hospitality/Thirst October 2012

If you are a passionate trainee chef and want to

give your career a real kick start, you are invited to apply for

the prestigious 2013 Fonterra Proud to be a Chef mentoring program, held in

Melbourne from 25th – 28th February, 2013.

Fonterra Proud to be a Chef is a program aimed at encouraging, rewarding and recognising

future culinary leaders in the foodservice industry. It provides trainee chefs a unique opportunity outside of

their normal working environment to learn, develop new skills and be mentored by some of the best chefs in Australia.

Thirty two successful applicants will participate in a three day all expenses paid event in Melbourne where they will experience fi ne

dining, network with industry leaders, participate in culinary Master Classes and work with a food photographer to bring an original recipe to life.

One standout trainee chef shall be crowned winner of the 2013 Fonterra Proud to be a Chef event and will win an international culinary scholarship tailored to their individual aspirations as a professional chef.

To get to Melbourne, you’ll need to compete in a semi fi nal cook-off in Auckland on 21st November. Judged by four top NZ chefs, ten semi-fi nalists will be fl own to Auckland to cook their submitted recipes and progress through a series of skill tests. Four lucky trainee chefs will then win places in the Melbourne fi nal.

If you have the passion to learn, the passion to experience and the passion to succeed, visit www.fonterrafoodservices.co.nz or www.facebook.com/proudtobeachef

for more details and to apply online.

Applications close 31st October, 2012. Applicants must be at least 18 years of age and enrolled in a culinary course as at 25th February 2013.

15356366FPTB

AC2013

TO THE BEST MENTORS

IN THE BUSINESS

SPONSORED BY SUPPORTED BY