how does the cosmetic industryreduce its impacts while bringing more benefits to its consumer’s?

CoP 21and

Biodiversity

November 9th 2015 – FACCMiami by Alban Muller

How does the cosmetic industryreduce its impacts while bringing more benefits to its consumer’s?

Alban Muller International


CoP 21 Conference of the Parties on climate change

Initiated since the Rio Earth Summit 1992

“Notre maison brûle et nous regardons ailleurs”(JC)

21st conference or “Last chance Summit”

Objective:

Limit the increase of planet’s average temperatureby reducing greenhouse gases emissions


The global picture Biodiversity is a source of goods & services

Biodiversity is a life insurance for Mankind

Biodiversity is more and more threatened

The 6th massive species extinction


1,8 1,9 2,1 2,32,5 2,8 3,0

3,3 3,74,1 4,4

4,8 5,3 5,76,1 6,5

6,8 7,27,6 7,9 8,2

8,5 8,7 8,99,1

0

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1910

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2015

2020

2025

2030

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Years

Popu

latio

n in billions

Anthropic pressure

and

human activities


CoP 21 objective Organize a transition

towards a new ecoresponible economy

Innovate in the field of “clean energies”

Create new modes of production of consumption

Companies will need to adapt their practises


Cosmetic industry is trying hard At the industry level,

we are already bringing changes

in buying practices ethical and equitable

in R&D in formulation

substitute traditional chemicals by natural alternatives

in industrial practices reduce water waste, monitor energy, recycle calories

with a global rating for their CSR policies ISO 26 000


Eco-conception fuels innovation Respect of the environment leads to innovation

Innovation is a source of profits

New technologies tend to reduce costs New ingredients are environment friendly

New approaches create better productsfor a better consumer satisfaction


What is a cosmetic made of?


What is a cosmetic made of? Oil

Water

Emulsifyers or surfactants

Texture agents (silicons)

Perfume

Colorant

Preservative

« Actives »


Oil Fossil origin

Not renewable Not easily biodegradable

Vegetable origin

Renewable Biodegradable Skin compatible From plains to desert: sunflower, olive, jojoba


Water Formulation water

Clean, sterile, pure

Think in terms of impact on the waste water

During the industrial process After the use of the product

(10 ml of a shampoo diluted into 100 liters of shower water)


Emulsifyers Industrially processed

Ethoxylates Lauryl Ether Sulfates

No biodegradability

Natural origin

Very kind to the skin Excellent biodegradability


Texture agents Silicons?

Prevent penetration of actives Suspected to be a problem for the environment Suspected to be a problem for human health

Natural replacement is possible

Unique derivative of local Milk Thistle oil(improvement on coconut or palm oil derived)

Becomes silicon replacement + a natural active


Perfumes, colorants, preservatives Very much needed, mostly synthetic

Criticized for their drawbacks

Allergens in perfumes Irritants in colorants Allergens, irritants and endocrinian modifiers

in preservatives

Many efforts towards new natural alternatives


Actives Which ones to chose?

Synthetic? Derived from petro-chemicals Problems with skin rashes

Animal derived? Non renewable BSE syndrome

Plant derived? Renewable Effective Broad spectrum of activities


In 1978, the fundamental choice of the vegetable resource: Infinite source of efficient actives Valid alternative to animal extracts

and petro-chemical derivatives


Renewable plants are better Variety of actives

All skin conditions

Biocompatibility Long co-evolution Plant molecules are safer to skin Better assimilation, better diffusion through the skin

For consumers Better and safer with plants


ResultsIngredients concentrated in active molecules, natural and biodegradableSkincare products highly efficient, with natural and sensorial textures

Development of alternatives to conventional industrial processes: optimized and environment friendly

Development of natural alternatives for the formulation of creams and lotions: preservatives, texture agents,…


How to source vegetable actives? Let us see a practical example


Specialist in plant extraction For cosmetic and pharmaceutical actives In the Cosmetic Valley (Center region) Factory close to Chartres (Beauce)


Around the factory are the farmers Beauce

1 000 ha

75 plant species

70 % of our vegetable consumption


Actives from cultivated plants Agronomical selection

Choice of seeds for the best possible plants

Good Cultivation Practices No contaminants

Follow up of maturity and active levels Better raw material for extraction

Drying, cutting, storage Avoid losses of actives during the process

Local sourcing Ethical, equitable, traceable, safe

= An excellent deal for all


Strict follow up of cropsto check maturation stage

Varietal selection


Our industrial practices How to reduce the impacts?

Use ecoconception = change everything in the traditional extraction

Eliminate traditional chemical solventsto replace by recyclable natural solvents(water, alcohol)

Improve global fossile fuel efficiency to reduce CO2

Final stage of drying by zeodration


Zeodration, a technological breakthrough


10 years to perfect Zeodration Worldwide exclusivity

This new system dries at 40°C(against 200°C)

Keeps all the actives intact

Produces its energy by the process itself (no CO2)

No greenhouse gases


15

7

4,2

0246810121416

ZEODRATATION ATOMISATION LYOPHILISATION

kWh per kgof evaporated

water

Spray-drying LyophilisationDeep freeze drying

Zéodration

4,27

15

Zeodration cuts down CO2 emissionsDoesn’t produce any greenhouse gases


Waste water processing The problem: wastewater treatment

50 000 m3/year = little city of 5 000 people = no water treatment unit easily available Avoid 15 km of pipes…

The answer: Biodiversity Gardens

Last step to purify the water with aquatic plants Create a renewed humid environment


Creation of a biodiversity paradiseon an industrial piece of land


Waste processing Our process was eco-improved,

plants wastedon’t contain any chemical solvents anymore

= Directly composted (350 tons/year)

Sent to the fields again to close the cycle= a new value for waste

97 % of factory waste is recycled


Evolution of the waste revalorisation


Ecoconception brings improvments With clean technologies With natural alternatives to synthetics

Final quality of the product is vastly improved Safety is maximized

= A happy consumer

What is good for the Planet is good for you


Conclusion Fighting global warming by companies is OK

But this is not enough!

Consumer must also act himself

If he is ecoresponsible,he becomes a true consum’actorhe can change his future for the better

Chose products carefully to become eco-citizens


A rewarded approach ECOVADIS CSR Assessment - Gold level 2015

CSR "Challenge" Trophy 2015

Living Heritage Company Label 2014

Gold Medal Green Ingredient Award In-cosmetics 2014

Sustainable Ingredient AwardsOrganic Monitor 2013

www.albanmuller.com

© Alban Muller – 2015

@alban_muller

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how does the cosmetic industryreduce its impacts while bringing more benefits to its consumer’s?

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