how to e xplore the a zore s, island by island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened sul villas on são...
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
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FROM HIKING A VOLCANO ON RUGGED PICO TO SURFING ON QUIET SÃOJORGE.
How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island
George Cowan
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
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By TRISH LORENZNovember 19, 2019
The Azores, essentially volcanoes in the middle of the Atlantic, are all moody basalt
mountains, jade green forests, waterfalls tumbling into crater lakes, and pasture
hedged by bursts of white, blue, and purple hydrangeas. A five-hour flight from
Boston or six from Toronto, they are a rarity: still untrammeled by humanity, with only a
handful of stone-cottage villages and solitary cliff-top churches—and the first archipelago
ever to be assessed for Earth Check certification, the global-sustainability benchmark. The
islands are part of Portugal, but the people who live here are hardier than their mainland
cousins; descendants of whalers and fishermen, winemakers and farmers, who carved their
livelihoods out of stone. I've been visiting the Azores for more than six years, drawn back
by the high-drama landscapes and calm, unflappable residents, capable of absorbing the
elemental force of the sea and nature that surrounds them. As an escape from a frenetic
world, the Azores feel like a pretty good place to be right now.
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
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George Cowan
Rasa lagoon on Flores Island
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5GA… 4/17
What to do in the Azores
Climb Mount Pico, Pico Island
George Cowan
A road running through Flores Island
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5GA… 5/17
From afar Pico looks like a child's drawing: an atoll appearing in a cerulean sea, the
mountain in the center with a small, slightly off-center triangular peak. It's a rugged four-
hour climb to reach the 7,700-foot summit through an extraterrestrial terrain of rippled
black lava surrounded by wispy green ferns and clumps of purple heather. At the top, steam
whistles from cracks and the views open up across the more than 200 smaller volcanoes
that dot Pico and the other islands.
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
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Surf at Fajã de Santo Cristo Lagoon, São Jorge
George Cowan
The Atlantic Ocean crashing against São Miguel Island
George Cowan
Empanadas lagoon on São Miguel
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
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Santo Cristo is a small village on a circular promontory wedged between mountains and sea
—no electricity, no cars, few people. Its hidden surf spot, favored by cheery locals and pro
surfers in training, is only accessible by hiking ancient paths down forest-covered cliffs.
The almost monastic stillness is broken by the rush of waves rolling onto the stony beach.
Even a few hours here is enough to reset your body clock to deep calm.
Take the waters at Furnas, São Miguel
The small town of Furnas is in the crater of a volcano that spits, hisses, and exhales sulfur.
Locals are blasé; they use specially dug pits for cooking Sunday lunch—cozido à
Portuguesa, a stew of meat and vegetables—and bathe in thermal pools. The largest is at
Terra Nostra Garden Hotel; just before sunrise, go barefoot to the dun-colored water, vapor
forming a cloud above it. Float on your back as the sky turns pink and blue over the
mountains.
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
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George Cowan
The forest surrounding Dos Patos lagoon on Flores Island
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
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Reinhard Dirscherl/Cavan Images
Mount Pico, a 7,700-foot volcano
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
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Meditate at Dos Patos Lagoon, Flores Island
Flores is probably the most beautiful of the nine islands. Green meets blue in all directions,
and at Dos Patos lagoon, a network of waterfalls drop hundreds of feet over emerald cliffs
into a small lake. Japanese cedar trees, their bark the color of a fake tan, form a pretty glade
around the shore. This place is an immersive spot for the meditative pleasures of true
wilderness.
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
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Paulo Goulart/Courtesy White Villas
White, a small cliff-top hotel on Lagoa
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5G… 12/17
Feast on fish on São Miguel
At Õtaka, creamy limpets are served with yuzu soy, and a delicate whitefish tempura is
paired with Azores-grown jalapeño. Assembled by intensely focused 30-something chef
George Cowan
Pau Pique lagoon, a crater lake on São Miguel
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
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José Pereira—born here but trained abroad—the menu combines Portuguese and Japanese
influences, with all ingredients line-caught.
WATCH THIS
The Most Under-Appreciated Spot in the Atlantic
Stay: At one of the 10 cliff-top suites at White on Lagoa, Lava Homes on Pico, or recently
opened Sul Villas on São Miguel.
Get around: It's easy to ferry among the five central islands (Pico, Faial, São Jorge, Terceira,
Graciosa), and between the western (Flores and Corvo) and eastern islands (São Miguel and
Santa Maria), but you'll want to fly between groups.*
At sea: From Pico Island, Futurismo employs former whale hunters to help spot the
creatures.
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
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Courtesy Lava Homes
A room at Pico's Lava Homes hotel
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
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Atlantic bonito sashimi with jalapeños at Õtaka
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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler
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