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26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5GA… 1/17 SPONSORED Ribeira Grande - Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort Ribeira Grande By BOOKING.COM FROM HIKING A VOLCANO ON RUGGED PICO TO SURFING ON QUIET SÃO JORGE. How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island George Cowan SUBSCRIBE

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Page 1: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5GA… 1/17

SPONSORED

Ribeira Grande - Santa Barbara Eco-Beach ResortRibeira Grande

B y BOOK ING .COM

FROM HIKING A VOLCANO ON RUGGED PICO TO SURFING ON QUIET SÃOJORGE.

How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island

George Cowan

SUBSCR IBE

Page 2: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5GA… 2/17

By TRISH LORENZNovember 19, 2019

The Azores, essentially volcanoes in the middle of the Atlantic, are all moody basalt

mountains, jade green forests, waterfalls tumbling into crater lakes, and pasture

hedged by bursts of white, blue, and purple hydrangeas. A five-hour flight from

Boston or six from Toronto, they are a rarity: still untrammeled by humanity, with only a

handful of stone-cottage villages and solitary cliff-top churches—and the first archipelago

ever to be assessed for Earth Check certification, the global-sustainability benchmark. The

islands are part of Portugal, but the people who live here are hardier than their mainland

cousins; descendants of whalers and fishermen, winemakers and farmers, who carved their

livelihoods out of stone. I've been visiting the Azores for more than six years, drawn back

by the high-drama landscapes and calm, unflappable residents, capable of absorbing the

elemental force of the sea and nature that surrounds them. As an escape from a frenetic

world, the Azores feel like a pretty good place to be right now.

The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

RELATED STORIES SHOW

Page 3: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5GA… 3/17

George Cowan

Rasa lagoon on Flores Island

The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

RELATED STORIES SHOW

Page 4: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5GA… 4/17

What to do in the Azores

Climb Mount Pico, Pico Island

George Cowan

A road running through Flores Island

The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

RELATED STORIES SHOW

Page 5: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5GA… 5/17

From afar Pico looks like a child's drawing: an atoll appearing in a cerulean sea, the

mountain in the center with a small, slightly off-center triangular peak. It's a rugged four-

hour climb to reach the 7,700-foot summit through an extraterrestrial terrain of rippled

black lava surrounded by wispy green ferns and clumps of purple heather. At the top, steam

whistles from cracks and the views open up across the more than 200 smaller volcanoes

that dot Pico and the other islands.

The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

RELATED STORIES SHOW

Page 6: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5GA… 6/17

Surf at Fajã de Santo Cristo Lagoon, São Jorge

George Cowan

The Atlantic Ocean crashing against São Miguel Island

George Cowan

Empanadas lagoon on São Miguel

The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

RELATED STORIES SHOW

Page 7: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5GA… 7/17

Santo Cristo is a small village on a circular promontory wedged between mountains and sea

—no electricity, no cars, few people. Its hidden surf spot, favored by cheery locals and pro

surfers in training, is only accessible by hiking ancient paths down forest-covered cliffs.

The almost monastic stillness is broken by the rush of waves rolling onto the stony beach.

Even a few hours here is enough to reset your body clock to deep calm.

Take the waters at Furnas, São Miguel

The small town of Furnas is in the crater of a volcano that spits, hisses, and exhales sulfur.

Locals are blasé; they use specially dug pits for cooking Sunday lunch—cozido à

Portuguesa, a stew of meat and vegetables—and bathe in thermal pools. The largest is at

Terra Nostra Garden Hotel; just before sunrise, go barefoot to the dun-colored water, vapor

forming a cloud above it. Float on your back as the sky turns pink and blue over the

mountains.

The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

RELATED STORIES SHOW

Page 8: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5GA… 8/17

George Cowan

The forest surrounding Dos Patos lagoon on Flores Island

The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

RELATED STORIES SHOW

Page 10: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5G… 10/17

SPONSORED

Lagoa - La Maison by White Exclusive Suites &VillasLagoa

Meditate at Dos Patos Lagoon, Flores Island

Flores is probably the most beautiful of the nine islands. Green meets blue in all directions,

and at Dos Patos lagoon, a network of waterfalls drop hundreds of feet over emerald cliffs

into a small lake. Japanese cedar trees, their bark the color of a fake tan, form a pretty glade

around the shore. This place is an immersive spot for the meditative pleasures of true

wilderness.

The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

RELATED STORIES SHOW

Page 11: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5GA… 11/17

Paulo Goulart/Courtesy White Villas

White, a small cliff-top hotel on Lagoa

The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

RELATED STORIES SHOW

Page 12: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5G… 12/17

Feast on fish on São Miguel

At Õtaka, creamy limpets are served with yuzu soy, and a delicate whitefish tempura is

paired with Azores-grown jalapeño. Assembled by intensely focused 30-something chef

George Cowan

Pau Pique lagoon, a crater lake on São Miguel

The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

RELATED STORIES SHOW

Page 13: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5G… 13/17

José Pereira—born here but trained abroad—the menu combines Portuguese and Japanese

influences, with all ingredients line-caught.

WATCH THIS

The Most Under-Appreciated Spot in the Atlantic

Stay: At one of the 10 cliff-top suites at White on Lagoa, Lava Homes on Pico, or recently

opened Sul Villas on São Miguel.

Get around: It's easy to ferry among the five central islands (Pico, Faial, São Jorge, Terceira,

Graciosa), and between the western (Flores and Corvo) and eastern islands (São Miguel and

Santa Maria), but you'll want to fly between groups.*

At sea: From Pico Island, Futurismo employs former whale hunters to help spot the

creatures.

The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

RELATED STORIES SHOW

Page 14: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5G… 14/17

Courtesy Lava Homes

A room at Pico's Lava Homes hotel

The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

RELATED STORIES SHOW

Page 15: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5G… 15/17

Atlantic bonito sashimi with jalapeños at Õtaka

The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

RELATED STORIES SHOW

Page 16: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5G… 16/17

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The Best Hotels in Ireland: 2019 Readers' Choice Awards 

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Page 17: How to E xplore the A zore s, Island by Island · 2021. 1. 19. · opened Sul Villas on São Miguel. Get around: It's easy to ferr y among the five central islands (Pico, Faial,

26/12/2019 How to Explore the Azores, Island by Island - Condé Nast Traveler

https://www.cntraveler.com/story/how-to-explore-the-azores-island-by-island?fbclid=IwAR3KTjlWzIvcM7qFO1d58zvfN_9qkNFu9UN2CQtzz5G… 17/17

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