How to Grow Food on a Budget

Growing organic food cheaply at home

Huw Richards

6 November 2013

In this article I will give you loads of tips and tricks to help you save as much money as possible ranging from getting free seeds, making low-cost compost and learning how to make organic fertilizers cheaply from ingredients found in many homes.

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What’s in this article (in order)

Introduction – why bother?

Herbs and vegetables

Buy herb seeds and save some cash

Plant some spuds – save some money

Eat your greens – be healthy – save money

Materials, compost and growing medium

The myth of ‘isn’t gardening expensive?’

Ideas for low-cost containers

4 options of filling your raised beds and containers

Get tools cheap!

Nutrients – dry and liquid organic fertilizers

Luscious liquid fertilizers

Dry fertilizers to really dig

What pH do my plants want?

How to raise the soil pH (from acid to alkaline)

How to lower the soil pH (from alkaline to acid)

How to get seeds for free! Or very cheaply!

Getting seeds online

Getting seeds offline

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Best vegetables to grow to save seeds

Saving seeds will save you time and money

What is the most productive vegetable?

List of the most productive vegetables

Flavourful fruit

How growing fruit trees in your garden will save you money

Get free berries (black, red and whitecurrants and gooseberries too)!

Should I bother with strawberries, raspberries and other berries?

Tips on getting fruit trees on a budget

A few little extras and FAQs

Conclusion

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How to grow food cheaply

Why should I bother trying?

Hello and thanks for choosing to get this article on growing food on a budget. I

will be sharing many tips and tricks and don’t think that you will waste loads of

money preparing as I can promise you that you’ll easily save over 50 bucks next

year! (Depending on how much of this you follow) and I am writing this to help

you and your family. You have received this because I want to say thank you

for over 5,000 subscribers which, for me, is a great achievement. This is the

building block for a future e-book but please tell me what you think after you

have read it. The main benefits of growing your own produce are that it’s

nutritious and better quality than store-bought fruit and veg. How do I know

this? Brix test them and you will be surprised. If you would like to see great

examples watch this interesting video by growingyourgreens proving how

home-grown produce is best. But your soil will have to be good quality for this

but fear not as you can improve it for FREE!

1. Herbs and vegetables

Buy herb seeds and save some cash

Firstly let us look at the costs of what produce is expensive to buy in stores and

what is cheap. Pre-packed fresh-cut herbs will cost you $2, more than a good

quality packet of seeds, and throughout the year, if you cook a lot, you will go

back and buy more and more packets therefore adding up in costs quite

dramatically. A packet of herb seeds will cost you about a dollar, or even better

you can get plants from your neighbours for free! The seeds available are

generally for growing annual herbs and will both save money and mean fresher

crops picked straight from the plant rather than something that has wilted in a

plastic packet and is not as nutritious. With perennial herbs (plants that live for

more than 2 years), buy a plant for $3-4 and never buy another fresh-cut pre-

pack of that herb for over 5 years, and it will be paid for either in the first or

second year, simple!

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Plant some spuds – save some money

Now we have spoken about saving a few bucks on some herbs, if you do that

alone you’ll have a bag of compost paid for. Next is the subject of vegetables.

They will need a bit more attention but you will be rewarded with more

savings – unless they get destroyed by some pests and diseases but there are

many methods of protecting your plants either for free or by using inexpensive

products. In our wet climate in Wales, UK, this can make our plants more

prone to disease yet the vast majority grow cleanly and we rarely have a

failure. Potatoes are quite cheap to buy in a store, value packs can be only a

dollar for around 2 pounds depending where you live, but if you have a large

garden growing seed potatoes will save money. Expect about 30 pounds of

potatoes per 10 potato seeds planted. 30 pounds of medium main crop

potatoes in a store will cost about $16 take away the $3 for seed resulting in a

saving of $13. We usually plant about 100 seed potatoes and that would save

us around $130 compared to buying all of our potatoes in the store. (These are

researched estimates; results may vary depending on potato variety and store

costs).

Eat your greens – be healthy – save money

Greens contain important vitamins and minerals that you can’t find in meat

and what’s more they can be made very interesting mixed with dressings,

cheese, olives and herbs for example. How much will you save? A good organic

seed packet will cost $1.50 and you can either grow it all at once and you will

have it all ready in 4 weeks but to avoid any wastage in case they bolt, plant a

third of a packet one week, two weeks later plant another third and two weeks

after that plant the remaining third of seeds. If you want variety then get a

packet of mixed salad leaves. Varieties of ‘cut-and-come again’ salads prolong

the growing season and mean you just cut what you need rather than

removing a whole lettuce head. This method will reduce the amount of

wasted salad leaves and most importantly save money. For those of you who

like numbers, by planting a packet of mixed salad leaves you would get the

amount of about 8-10 pre-packs of lettuce saving $15! Every seed packet of

vegetables grown saves money and it all adds up. This system works with most

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vegetables but if you would like to know more just send me an e-mail to me

about specific vegetable varieties.

2. Materials, compost and growing medium

The myth of ‘isn’t vegetable gardening expensive?’

‘Yeah Huw I know you save money on that but don’t you have to pay for all the

compost and materials?’ I hear you ask. My answer is ‘Not much, not as much

as you would expect’. Many blog posts and websites say you lose money

gardening and you might have seen those making you sceptical. In my opinion

they are wrong, as long as you keep on top of pests and diseases by rotating

your crops (see blog post), but don’t containers cost a lot?

Ideas for low-cost containers

It doesn’t take much looking around on sites like Craigslist and Freecycle to

find people giving away plastic pots and old wooden boards or planks. These

web sites are perfect to browse on and find loads of things that are totally

free! You don’t have to grow foods in raised beds either, you can grow them in

plastic grocery crates found behind shops, cardboard boxes or even old bath

tubs! I made a video that you might like that shows you how to grow

vegetables in cardboard boxes. You can grow vegetables like radishes, salads

and herbs too in plastic bottles with the top cut off and a couple of holes in the

bottom for drainage. That is one of the easiest ways to grow vegetables! But I

would recommend looking for second-hand wooden planks for raised beds to

grow a larger array of vegetables and it is still cheap. You will save a lot of

money with raised beds as all of the vegetables planted in them will save

money that will easily pay them off within the first 24 months. This is due to

more growing space.

To grow potatoes cheaply half fill an old compost sack with leaves and leave it

for 18 months then fill the other half with compost or dirt, give it a good mix

and grow some potatoes in it! Or cut a few holes in the side and you have a

vertical strawberry planter.

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Now I have my containers and raised beds how do I fill them?

You have four options: The first and most expensive one is to buy your own

topsoil and compost to save time. You can get some pretty good deals in many

plant nurseries and garden stores.

The second is to make your own by getting an old trash bin with holes in the

sides and underneath. Collect vegetable scraps and grass clippings and layer

them with cardboard, paper and leaves, then the green materials again and so

on like a big lasagne. Keep on turning this pile every 2 weeks and keep it moist.

You will have compost in about 9 months and if you had 3 bins there will be a

good amount of nutrient rich compost ready to help some plants.

Thirdly, in the autumn (fall) collect about 10 bin (trash) bags and fill them up

with leaves from a park (ask permission first), sprinkle in some water, tie them

up and add some holes in the bottom and in a year’s time you will have what is

called leaf mold. You can then use this as mulch or mix it half and half with top-

soil or wait a further year to have pure compost. Simply forget about the bags

for a while and they will do the job for you, all you need to do is spend two

minutes filling them up.

And the fourth is useful if you need more soil to fill up raised beds. If you live in

or near a rural area you’re lucky as many farmers would love you to go and

collect of all the mole hill soil so their machines don’t get damaged and you

have free soil (but ask them first!). I have used this method before on our own

land and that is how I have filled most of our raised beds. Whilst you’re at the

farm take advantage of some free horse manure – many farms offer this. Once

you have what you need, make a cone shape pile of the horse manure and

water it down then place a plastic sheet over and leave it for 2 weeks. Once

those 2 weeks are up uncover the plastic sheet and mix it all up, spray

generously with water then re-cover and leave for a further 2 weeks. After that

month of fermenting it will be composted and good enough to mix in with the

dirt or mulch around any vegetables you wish but take care not to let the

mulch touch the stems of the plants as this can burn them. If you have access

to cow manure, although not as rich as horse manure, you can use the same

method. To see what you can and can’t compost see this very useful graph.

Worth reading!

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Get tools cheap!

Not much can be said about tools apart from looking on Craigslist/Freecycle

and look in second hand or charity shops/thrift shops and at garage/yard sales.

These will be the easiest way to get the required tools you’ll need for bargain

prices.

3. Nutrients – dry and liquid organic fertilizers

Luscious liquid fertilizers

Compost has been listed above as a great source for nutrients and you can

easily make compost tea. Simply fill a hessian sack with compost and leave it in

a bucket of water for a week and stir the water every day. Then dilute 1 part

tea to 3 parts water for a lovely drink for young seedlings and vegetables.

Comfrey juice is a traditional liquid fertilizer to make. Fill a container up to the

top with leaves and give it a good mix then leave it for 1-2 weeks with a lid

over it, open it up again and give it another good mix then dilute 1 part juice to

2 parts water and apply generously to your plants. You can do the same with

nettles or even garden weeds.

You can make other fertilizers from seaweed. In many places you don’t need

permission to harvest it but it’s safe to check first. Harvest a whole bag full and

bring it back home, then chop it up loosely and place in a bucket of water and

let it sit there for 2-3 weeks then you will have an excellent soil amendment.

Molasses is great too. Add 2-3 tablespoons to a gallon of water and feed your

plants. Molasses helps because it gives the soil and plants a nutrition boost due

to it being made from sugar cane or sugar beet; it is packed with potassium,

calcium, iron, magnesium and sugars. This is a wonderful treat for your

vegetables.

Dry fertilizers to really dig

There are a couple of really easy and effective dry fertilizers you can make to

help your plants that are just as good as you get in garden nurseries but I

would recommend investing in some rock dust as the amount of minerals in it

really does benefit your plants but there are other alternatives. One is dead

simple. After you have a fire (wood materials only) collect up the ash and

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spread it around the base of your vegetables giving them potash which

supplies the plants with magnesium.

For acid-loving plants like tomatoes and blueberries, used coffee grounds will

give them a helping hand because they contain nitrogen, phosphorus,

potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulphur and several other nutrients. Simply

sprinkle them over the soil before you water it.

3. What pH do my plants want? By TheGardenHelper

Vegetable Preferred pH

Vegetable Preferred pH

Artichoke(globe) 5.6-6.6 Okra 6.0-8.0

Asparagus 6.5-7.5 Onions 6.2-6.8

Avocado 6.0-7.0 Parsley 6.0-8.0 Beans 6.0-7.0 Parsnip 5.0-7.0

Beet 5.6-6.6 Peas 5.6-6.6 Broccoli 6.0-7.0 Peanuts 5.0-6.0

Brussels Sprouts 6.0-7.0 Peppers 6.0-8.0 Cabbage 5.6-6.6 Potato 5.8-6.5

Cantaloupe 6.0-7.0 Pumpkins 5.0-7.0

Carrot 5.0-6.0 Radish 6.0-7.0 Catnip 5.0-6.0 Raspberry 6.0-6.5

Cauliflower 6.0-7.0 Rhubarb 5.0-7.0 Celery 6.0-7.0 Rutabaga 5.0-7.0

Chard 6.0-7.0 Shallots 5.0-7.0

Chili pepper 5.0-6.0 Spinach 5.0-7.0 Chives 5.0-6.0 Squash 6.0-7.0

Cucumber 5.0-6.0 Strawberries 6.0-7.0 Dill 5.0-6.0 Sunflowers 6.0-7.0

Eggplant 5.0-6.0 Sweet corn 6.0-7.0 Garlic 5.0-6.0 Sweet

potatoes 5.0-7.0

Gourds 5.0-6.0 Swiss chard 6.0-7.0

Kiwi 5.0-7.0 Tobacco 5.0-7.0

Leek 5.0-6.0 Tomatoes 5.5-7.0 Lettuce 6.5-7.0 Turnip 5.0-7.0

Mint 6.0-7.0 Yam 6.0-8.0 Mushroom 7.0-8.0 Zucchini 6.0-7.0

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How to raise the soil pH (from acid to alkaline)

In general most soils’ acidity will be fine for growing vegetables but if it is really

acidic adding any type of organic matter will lessen the acidic pH to around

6-7pH which is what you need but remember most vegetables like a light acidic

soils. To raise it dig in leaves to the raised bed in the autumn, mix in compost

or add shredded paper.

How to lower the soil pH (from alkaline to acid)

Lowering the pH of alkaline soils can take time but you can use sulphur to

speed this up. I, however, would stick to the same method as above, i.e. dig in

organic matter to bring it to 6-7pH but it will take a while for the process to

have an effect and it will save you money in the long run. It will also increase

your soil’s productivity.

4. How to get seeds for free! Or very cheaply!

In the first section I spoke about buying seed packets to grow vegetables from

and save money because the seed packets are a drop in the water compared

to the cost of fresh vegetables in a store, but what if you are doubtful about

the seeds not growing or germinating and money is wasted for nothing. Well

you can try to get seeds for free, and it’s not as hard as you think. There are

possibly hundreds of methods you can use to do this and I will try and list the

easiest. I’m going to divide this into two sections: the first one will be tips for

getting seeds online, the second will be how to get them offline from things

like seed swapping, friends and seed collecting.

Getting seeds online

1) YouTube. Really YouTube? Yeah for sure! Thought I would start this list

off with something you weren’t quite expecting. It may not be the

easiest way to find free seeds but many Youtubers give away seeds in

contests or have a big seed giveaway where all you need to do is to

comment on the contest entry on the video or something similar and if

you win you get free seeds! Doesn’t always work but it is really worth a

try.

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2) On Facebook there are many seed-swapping groups and if you look

closely enough you can find some really good deals - for example people

offering vegetable seeds in return for some tree seeds, ones that you

could easily collect in a wood/forest (If allowed) and just a bit of postage

and you will end up with several seed packets that would otherwise cost

up to £7/$10, for a 52p/$1 postage stamp.

3) There are also seed-swapping websites that use very similar methods to

the Facebook groups but remember if you’re posting internationally to

check the regulations with your local post office.

Getting seeds offline

1) After you have eaten Sweet Peppers (Bell) you’ve bought in a shop/store

don’t throw away the seeds but save them to grow. You will need to

make sure that the seeds come from an organic fruit so that no nasty

chemicals have the opportunity to damage the seeds. To grow them

poke a hole in an old yogurt pot then fill it most of the way with

compost, make a quarter inch hole and pop in a couple of seeds then fill

it up. Water the compost slightly and keep moist and place the pot on

either a sunny windowsill or on a radiator with a folded tea towel

underneath to give heat to speed up the germination process. After the

seed is 3 inches tall pot it on into a 2 litre bottle (cut off and recycle top

– use bottom after carefully making drainage holes), fill with some fresh

compost and hopefully you will get a free pepper plant that will supply

you with many peppers from seeds that otherwise you would have

wasted.

2) You probably have a neighbour/neighbor or friend who grows

vegetables. Try asking them nicely late in the season for a few of the

overgrown stringy beans left hanging on bean plants (ideally offering

some other seed you have saved in exchange). Four pods will give you

about 20 seeds to plant out in the spring to get plenty of beans. All that

for free!

3) Many local communities have seed-swap clubs and if you’re tired of the

beans you will have plenty to trade with and get some other vegetable

seeds.

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5. The best vegetables to grow to save seeds

Saving seeds will save you time and money

-Parsnips. After your crop has ended leave two plants to bolt and wait for the

flowers to turn into seed pods then turn brown and dry. Collect the seeds by

cutting the whole stem and place it in a plastic bag and then shake well for a

few seconds. All the seeds will have collected at the base of the back and seal

these in an airtight container like an envelope or a zip-lock bag – don’t forget

to label and date (use the following year-parsnip seeds are only viable for one

year). How to grow parsnips and How to save parsnip seeds.

-Beans and Peas. Beans especially are probably one of the easiest vegetables

to grow. The only thing you need to give them (unless non-climbers) is

something for them to climb up. Let the seed pods dry naturally on the plant

and store the seeds in a glass jar or an envelope and plant them the following

spring (stored bean seeds last for two years) Grow beans like this.

-Potatoes. After you harvest the spuds, clean them thoroughly and find some

small potatoes and check for any signs of disease such as blight or pests like

slug holes. Then make sure there is no visible damage and if all those are ticked

off place them into a hessian bag or cardboard sack and use as seed potatoes

for your next crop.

-Peppers. See ‘Getting seeds offline’ in previous section. You can get seeds

from a store-bought fruit, germinate and grow them for hardly anything, plus

you have the possibility of growing dozens of plants from one fruit because of

the amount of seeds. If you would like to grow hot peppers here is a video!

6. What is the most productive vegetable?

This question doesn’t have a definite answer, it depends on the opinion of the

person answering, so here is mine. The vegetables that I want to grow have to

be full of nutrition and really healthy, benefiting both my body and taste buds

but I also want to have some fun teaching thousands of other people across

the globe how to do the same.

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In terms of the most productive vegetable type, I would look at the leafy

greens - for example salads. Some can be pretty boring but there are loads of

varieties to choose from, some purple, some spicy and some plain weird. Or

you could by salad mix packets giving you a variety. Why leafy greens? Well the

seeds are really cheap and with ‘cut-and-come again’ salads you can cut what

you need from plants several times, and grow hundreds of plants for a packet

of seeds that only cost £1/1.50. This amount of salad will keep a family of four

busy coming up with new salad dressings every night for several weeks and

also freeze them or make warming soups in the winter.

I would also encourage you to grow crops that cost a lot in shops/stores but

are cheap to grow. Examples are beetroot, carrots, cucumbers,

courgettes/zucchini and beans. Cucumbers don’t take up that much space

because you can grow them up your garden wall or up a few twigs, taking up

less than a square foot area, giving you hopefully at least five fruits, and if five

seeds grew from a seed packet resulting in 25 cucumbers you would save a lot

of money there. So basically my answer to this question is that leafy greens are

the most productive vegetables but root crop veggies and beans are quite

close behind. If you have a really small garden with one raised bed I would

advise you to grow a pyramid of climbing beans on one side surrounded by

leafy greens and the remaining third of the bed with a selected root crop of

your choice. But if you don’t have a garden you can grow potatoes in a bag on

your balcony or porch and don’t forget those all-important herbs on the

kitchen windowsill.

6. Flavourful fruit

How growing fruit trees in your garden will save you money

If you have a small garden/backyard there will probably enough space for you

to grow a couple of fruit trees and some soft fruit. There are many rootstock

sizes that you can choose from and some fruit trees can even grow and

produce large harvests in pots. If you have a small garden I would recommend

M27 for, M26 or M9 for medium gardens and MM106 for larger gardens. If you

are short of space the best option is to train them against a south-facing wall

or a fence. How much money will fruit trees save though?

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After 4-5 years your MM106 tree will start cropping well and if apples cost, say

90p/$1.30 per pound, you will soon recoup the £10/$15 you paid for the tree –

and this will hopefully improve each year afterwards saving hundreds in the

longer term. You can use the money you saved from growing potatoes to

invest in an apple or pear tree – but make sure that there are other fruit trees

that flower at the same time to pollinate yours – if not you need to get two

trees from the same pollination group. Check the Royal Horticultural Society’s

pollination chart and webpage on choosing apple varieties. If you don’t want to

pay full price you don’t have to. If you know someone who keeps trees, buy a

rootstock from a nursery which will be about £2.50/$4 and see if they might

graft the variety of your choice onto it from their winter prunings. In 4-5 years

you will begin getting fruit.

Get free berries (black, red and whitecurrants and gooseberries

too)!

Did you know that blackcurrant prunings root very readily? Red and

whitecurrants do as well, though not quite so eagerly. See my video on

propagating blackcurrants and red/whitecurrants to see how easy this is. If you

can spare some areas 5ft square per full-grown plant then it is worth getting

some of these going – so probably better in a medium-sized garden.

Blackcurrant varieties like Baldwin or Ben Lomond are heavy croppers that will

produce up to 10 pounds of fruit per plant in the right conditions, and you

could just plant a couple of plants in a corner of your lawn. They will live for

about 10 years and will only take two to three years to get large harvests. The

only TLC you would need to give them is a bit of pruning every year (cut back ¼

of the older growth each year) and mulch them generously in the spring to add

nutrients and block any weeds from intervening. Red and whitecurrants and

gooseberries are pruned differently – see the BBC’s guide to pruning website

for soft fruit pruning guidance. If you have made the leaf mould recommended

earlier in this article this would be perfect for mulching them or just grass

clippings, anything that will stop weeds from growing through to disrupt the

plant with growing space.

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Should I bother with Strawberries, Raspberries and other berries?

You’re reading this to save money, and I love to eat healthy berries when I’m

gardening or make delicious smoothies but the space soft fruit takes up can

waste space for the more productive vegetables. The harvests are relatively

smaller than vegetable harvests but it mainly depends on the variety. If you

really want to grow strawberries there is a great small space alternative. Build

a bottle tower garden and grow strawberries in each individual bottle and

what is even better you can hang it in front of window to keep your house

shaded in the summer or hand them in a sheltered part of the garden. It looks

really pretty; you will get nutritious food and also save money as you reuse

plastic bottles and you won’t have to pay for any strawberries in the summer.

This would be a great project to do if you have any children and get their

friends over and hold a bottle tower making party.

With the bottle tower gardens you can grow leafy greens in and radishes too.

Instead of bottles you could get an old gutter pipe and fill it with compost.

Then cut a round hole every half a foot up to your desired height and plant it

with strawberries. Simply water at the top of the pipe and you will have a large

harvest of strawberries taking up practically no space in your garden.

7. Tips on getting fruit trees on a budget

1) In farmers markets or any market where nurseries are selling fruit trees wait

till they start packing up and ask for any ‘leftovers’ or any discounted trees (In

a friendly manner of course).

2) Not all fruit trees can be propagated by cuttings but you can propagate fruits

like citrus and figs which root easily by taking 6inch long cuttings during the

winter or early spring about pencil thickness. Put a little sand in a 4-6 inch pot

and stick in the cuttings, not too tightly, 1-3 a pot and then fill it up with good

quality potting compost. Place in a warm sunny spot and check for roots the

following autumn.

3) Grow them from seed but not all seeds will grow true to type meaning they

won’t be a replica of the mother tree. There are different processes for

different species. Ask me for further details on this subject if you would like

more information.

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8. A few little extras and FAQs

Here are a couple of things that you might find useful:

How long do vegetables take to grow?

Here is a very basic chart I put together (based on the chart by Master

Gardeners) – times are approximate and depend on weather and soil

conditions.

Can I sell the produce that I’ve grown?

If you end up with a lot of produce and you want to earn a bit more

money you can try to sell them and remember to say that they are

organically grown on the sign (which is different from being registered

organic which requires certification and inspection). You should check

with your local authorities to see if you need any licences or certificates.

Can you become self-sufficient growing vegetables?

Yes you can but you need to have enough land to do so and a bit more

of your time. This is easier if you are happy to only eat vegetables that

Vegetable Days from seed to harvest

Beans, Bush, pole 48 - 60

Beets 55 - 70

Carrots 65 - 80

Cabbage 65 - 120

Chard, Swiss 30 - 40

Cucumbers 60 - 80

Eggplant 75 - 100

Kale 55 - 65

Lettuce, Leaf 35 - 45

Mustard Greens 35 - 40

Onions, Green 70 - 100

Peppers, Bell 110 - 120

Squash, Summer 50 - 60

Tomatoes 65 - 100

Tomatoes, Cherry 55 - 100

Turnips 40 - 70

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are in season, and if you are creative in coming up with new recipes

when you have a glut – search the web – it’s amazing how many recipes

there are for courgettes/zucchinis including chocolate cake! There are

many eco-villages that grow most of their own food and here in Wales

there is a community called the Lammas project where you can have

guided tours at certain times of the year.

9. Conclusion

I hope that you’ve enjoyed this post on how to grow food cheaply and I wish

you all the best with your future projects. We have looked at how herbs save

money, the most productive vegetables, easy vegetables to grow, making your

own compost and more. I really think growing food is much easier than it

sounds and more people should have a go and save money. I am hoping that

you have been inspired with some ideas and start having some fun. There are

plans for further articles like this for example cooking and baking. Hopefully

this can be a success for you and your plants and if you have any questions you

can contact me here:

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/HuwsGardenNursery

Google+: http://gplus.to/huwsnursery

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/HuwsNursery

E-mail: huw.richards14@hotmail.co.uk

Thank you very much for reading this,

All the best,

Huw Richards