HOW TO LAUNCH AN:AUTO DETAILING BUSINESS

This guide will introduce you to all the tools and the various stages involved in detailing cars. Starting with the interior we’ll walk you step by step through the entire process. From mats and carpet to interior surfaces, leather, vinyl and glass, you’ll learn how professional detailers approach each stage. Next, we’ll discuss proper exterior washing and drying including wheels, tires and trim as well as detailing clay, sealants and wax. Although this guide only supports hand washing and waxing we will address how to properly and safely use dual action polishers and circular / rotary polishing tools for those who wish to grow their business to the next level.

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The first step to detailing a vehicle is the interior. This gives the mats and interior carpet time to dry after you’ve rinsed, scrubbed and spot cleaned. To this end, the first step to cleaning the interior is to remove the mats and vacuum. Any good shop vacuum makes this job easy with the available attachments and flexible extension hose. Rubber pet brushes can be a nice tool to quickly and easily remove excess pet hair from seats and carpet. Use spot eliminator products to attack carpet and upholstery stains in conjunction with mat and carpet scrub brushes. Vacuuming mats and carpet after they’ve been scrubbed is a good way of drying and fluffing them back to life.

As you approach the vinyl, plastic and rubber surfaces never use silicon-based protectants! They will deteriorate your surfaces and discolor them over time. Instead, use water-based products and you’ll always be in the clear. There are many interior cleaners and surface protectants so experiment with different products until you find your prefer-ences. Use microfiber cloths to avoid scratching surfaces and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

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INTErIOr CLEANING & CONDITIONING

Leather is a natural product with pores that clog with dirt and oils. It’s also susceptible to premature aging, drying and cracking without regular maintenance – particularly in warm climates. Like skin it must be cleaned before it can be properly conditioned. This is the two-step process which involves the application and agitation of a leather cleaning product with a microfiber applicator pad or scrub brush and the subsequent application of a reputable leather conditioner. When applying the cleaner, it’s more about the agitation than scrubbing that will bring dirt, oils and impurities to the surface – at which point they can be easily wiped away with a microfiber towel. Not until this point will the leather receive and absorb a conditioner. Once cleaned however, leather conditioners nourish and moisturize the leather allowing it to retain its resilience, warmth and plush feel.

As you avoid silicon based cleansers for plastic and ammonia-based cleansers for glass, it’s just as important to avoid brands containing petroleum distillates, silicon or silicon oils when choosing a conditioning agent for leather as they can actually attract dirt and dust and leave a greasy finish that can rub off on clothing. AlwAys choose A leAther conditioner thAt is wAter-bAsed And ph-bAlAnced. There are many products to choose from, and some can be a bit expensive, but when it comes to leather care, it never pays to use cheap products. Your clients will notice the difference.

PrOPEr LEATHEr CArE

Getting down to the more difficult areas such as vents and seams, your shop vacuum will come in handy to help get hard to reach places. These are the areas that are typically overlooked and this is where you as the professional detailer really get to show your prowess. Customers notice and will keep calling you back when you take care of every aspect of their vehicle.

Make sure to have leather and vinyl cleaning products for spills and UV exposure. Depending on the condition of the vehicle, it can be helpful to use a small dual action polisher to help attack particularly problematic areas. Once treated, coat the areas with lasting UV protection with products such as 303 Aerospace Protectant.

Professional detailing goes far beyond simply grabbing some soap and water and scrubbing away. The shampoo you choose is important, the water you use – whether it’s hard or soft will influence the conditions you need to keep in mind, and the tools you employ are all vital to doing the best job possible.

PrOPEr ExTErIOr WASHING & DryING

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The first rule to exterior washing is to avoid washing in direct sunlight if at all possible. The vehicle will dry too quickly leaving streaks and swirls. This is particularly important is you’re not using soft water. If you are using hard water and it dries on the vehicle you’ll be left with spots that will need to be buffed out. Hard water is not the end of the world, it just means that you have to do your best to work in the shade and focus on smaller areas washing and drying as you go. This is less important when using soft water. Start with the top and work your way down and around the vehicle. Also important is your choice of washing instrument. The thinner and more dense the product (like a bath towel) the more likely to scratch or damage the surface of the vehicle, while the thicker and more plush the applicator, the more gently it will scrub away dirt and grime while minimizing the potential for scratching. Good applicators include a large natural sea sponge, sheepskin wash mitts, microfiber wash mitts, cotton chenille pads and or mitts.

Next you’ll need to choose the proper shampoo to wash your vehicle. It’s important to select a wash that contains a high level of lubricants. This allows for easy removal of dirt without risking scratches along the way. Dish soap is not an ideal choice as it will strip away protective coat-ings. Pinnacle Body Shampoo, DP Auto Wash and P21S Bodywork Conditioning are all great choices though there are others available.

On to washing! There are two approaches to consider, both of which achieve the same end result; a swirl-free finish. You can use two buckets, one filled with clean water and one with soapy water. In this case before re-soaking your applicator with soapy water, make sure to dip it in the clean bucket to rinse away the dirt and grime you just removed from the car. Alternatively, you can use one bucket that has a grit guard. This is a plastic insert that separates the clean, soapy water from the dirt and particulates which then settle on the bottom of the bucket. In this instance, it’s important to keep an eye on how dirty your water gets and swap out for clean soapy water as needed. Once you have rinsed the car off, you’re ready to begin washing from the top toward the bottom. As the lower panels are closest to the ground, they’re the dirtiest so you want to make sure to finish there instead of starting there.

WASHING

The more ofTen you can offer Touch up services To your

cusTomers, The less The buildup will be and The easier The overall

job will be for you.

In some parts of the country, bugs present a bigger problem than others. Should you be in a place prone to heavy insect and bug seasons, it’s important to keep your customers vehicles clean and clear of the mess they’ll make. Not only are bug debris a blight on the bumper, they’re actually eating away at the clear coat and paint underneath as the enzymes meant to decompose their bodies also go to work on the surface of the car.

In order to minimize the effect there are a few things you can do. The first step is frequency. The more often you can offer touch up services to your customers, the less the buildup will be and the easier the overall job will be for you.

Usually body shampoo and a microfiber towel or Boar’s Hair Brush are sufficient to remove grit, grime and bugs, but in the event that you have a particularly problematic vehicle there are prod-ucts designed specifically to aid in bug removal. Examples are Poorboy’s World Bug Squash, Tarminator, Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner Plus and Stoner XENIT. Keep in mind that after applica-tion of any of these products, you’ll need to spot-wax the area as they will have been stripped of their wax along with the rest of the gunk.

Proper drying is just as important as proper washing. Again, direct sun-light will put you under the gun so you want to find shade to bide your time. The goal is to quickly remove water from the car before any of the water dries, leaving water spots. There are two alternatives that get the job done quickly and effectively. The first is by using a California Water Blade. This is essentially an oversized squeegee made with soft, medi-cal grade silicon that won’t harm the surface of your car. It will quickly remove up to 80% of the water. The rest is easily removed with microfiber towels or with the help of a shop vacuum. The vacuum can serve as a second alternative to drying the vehicle by its self. It’s an investment but it’s really the ultimate detailing tool, and if you plan on making a real business of this it’s a tool you should have. Make sure to wipe all jambs by opening the doors, trunk and the hood and don’t forget the mirrors and wiper blades.

For the most basic of jobs that don’t require clay or wax, it’s still a nice touch to finish the exterior at this point with a quick spray wax or sealant. It goes a long way to highlight a job well done. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant and Mothers Showtime Detailer are two examples of such a product.

What separates trim and molding from the rest of the vehicle is that they’re typically plastic, rubber and or vinyl – all of which degrade under UV exposure. To properly care for these areas, a four stage sequence should be followed; wash, undress, protect and restore. All trim and molding should be washed while washing the exterior of the vehicle. Once the car has been dried, the trim and molding need special attention. Sealants and waxes don’t cure to plastic and rubber the way they do to metal. Because of this layers build upon layers and need from time to time to be removed and reapplied. DP Cleanse – All Exterior Cleaner works great for this task. Apply the cleaner to a micro-fiber towel and wipe down the trim and molding to avoid overspray. Now that the areas have been undressed, they need to be protected. There are several products you can use to achieve this, Pinnacle Vinyl & Rubber Protectant and 303 Aerospace Protectant will both do a great job. Again, you want to apply the product to a microfiber towel and then to the trim and molding areas. In climates like the south west or south east where sun exposure is more intense, trim and molding should be cleaned and re-protected monthly, otherwise where UV exposure is less intense every other month will suffice. Don’t forget the

THE NASTy BITS DryING TOOLS

TrIm & mOLDING

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plastic molding around the windshields, windows and door moldings along with protective gaskets inside the door jambs and the trunk. It only takes a few extra minutes but will extend the life of the vehicle and add value to the overall job.

Lastly, in the event that the vehicle’s black trim and molding have faded beyond simple protection, there are restorative measures you can employ. Forever Black is permanent black dye that contains UV protection. It’s easy to apply but make sure to test the product on an inconspicuous area to see that it yields the result you’re looking for before applying to the rest of the trim and molding. Forever Black Bumper & Trim Dye Kit is another product worth looking at. This product takes 20 minutes to dry and requires no buffing. It may take a few layers to get the desired result. Black WOW Trim Restorer is another product designed for areas that are off-black. It darkens the color of plastic or rubber and takes very little to get fantastic results. Remember the license plate frame! Just like the gas-kets in the doors, these are the little things that shouldn’t be overlooked. A simple application of protectant will go along way and for clear plastic coverings try DP Plex-All to prevent against yellowing.

Wheels and tires can be approached first or last. As the wheels and wheel wells are typically the dirtiest part of the car, make sure to change your water if you start here before moving on to the rest of the car. A Boar’s Hair Brush will do a good job but there are tire and wheel well specific brushes available to help reach behind the tires and up into the wells. Make sure the cleaner you use is water-based with no corrosive chemicals that could damage the tires. Some cleaners are all purpose like Mother’s All Purpose Wheel Mist and Wolfgang Tire & Wheel Cleaner while others are specific to Chrome or alloy. If you’re un-sure, use an all purpose. Once washed, dry the wheels and rims with microfiber and or your shop vacuum. Go one tire at a time so that the others don’t dry out while waiting to be attended to.

Once cleaned and dried you can offer to wax the wheels. There are specific protectants like DP Wheel Glaze or Wheel Wax but you can also use wheel detailing clay to do the job. Girot’s Garage Wheel Cleaning Clay does a great job and is made specifically for wheels. Avoid using body clay for wheels and vice versa so as to avoid cross contamination with the paint. Not only is this a great up-sell but it goes a long way in protecting against brake dust and keeps the wheels healthier longer.

The last step is to dress the tires. This provides UV protection which prevents drying, cracking and fading while adding a nice gloss to the tire. Make sure to choose a water based dressing instead of a silicon based product which will degrade the tire and brown over time. Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel or Pinnacle Black Onyx Tire Gel are both great options. Apply 2 thin layers and allow time for each layer to dry.

WHEELS & TIrES

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Chrome wheels need special attention. If your client has chrome wheels, they’re clearly interested in the look of their vehicle. If you show them that you know the difference between chrome, alloy and anything else, it will give them confidence in your abilities and typically lock them in as ongoing customers. Chrome is a soft metal and can easily be pitted and penetrated by corrosive brake dust. To avoid this, frequent upkeep is the only answer. The process is the same, you just want to make sure you have chrome wheel cleaner to do the job. Mothers Wheel Mist Chrome/Wire Pro Strength Wheel Cleaner, Girot’s Garage Chrome Wheel Cleaner and Wolfgang Tire and Wheel Cleaner are a few products that will do the job right. As it’s a softer metal, the tools you use to scrub must be soft and clean as well – scratches are easier to make and see with chrome wheels.

A note on tools: Use specific brushes for specific parts of the car. You don’t for instance want to use the same soft brush that you’re using on your chrome wheels to clean the upper casements of the wheel wells. They demand a much firmer brush to really attack the grit and grime deposits. Likewise, that firm brush can scratch the soft chrome wheels, so you don’t want to use it other than in the wheel wells. Once the wheels have been washed, dried and should you choose, clayed, the final step is to polish. Polishing removes any oxidation and leaves the wheels shining like new. This last step can be done by hand or with the help of an electric drill to which you attach a polishing tool like Mothers PowerBall Mini MD or the Flitz Polishing Ball. Apply a polish specific to chrome such as 3M Chrome and Metal Polish, Wenol Blue or Optimum Metal Polish to the wheel. Then either by hand or using your polishing tool and electric drill begin polishing. Move quickly enough to keep the pol-ish from drying or tarnishing. Once finished, wipe the wheel clean with a microfiber towel and repeat for the rest of the wheels. Once the chrome has been polished, dress the tires as outlined above and you’re all set.

Detailing clay is a tool you should have in your arsenal. It’s the safest and most effective way to clean car paint, plastic, glass, fiberglass and metals. It removes everything that’s left behind after you’ve washed and even waxed a vehicle. There are synthetic and natural forms of detailing clay, both of which work well. Some great examples are DP Universal Detailing Clay, XMT Speed Clay and Wolfgang Poly Clay. It’s an elastic product that’s meant to be worked, rolled, stretched and molded over and over again. Clay comes in 2 to 8 oz bars. Typically you should clay your cus-tomer’s vehicles twice a year. For every 2 ounces you should be able to clay three to four cars. It’s best to use 2 ounces at a time and store the unused portions well lubricated in the original case.

On to the technique. detAiling clAy needs clAy lubricAnt to work its mAgic! This provides a very thin layer which allows the clay to move across the surface, removing particulates without scratching the clear coat. Work in small 1-2 square foot areas. At first you’ll notice that the clay may catch a bit but keep working it and it will soon move easily over the surface leaving it smooth as silk. Once complete, wipe clean with a microfiber towel and move on to the next area.Note that clay does not remove oxidation – for that you’ll need to polish. Never clay an area that may flake or chip due to oxidation as it will ruin your clay. In this instance, polish the area first, then revisit with clay. Once finished with the detailing clay, remember to lubricate and store in its original container. Now it’s time to move on to sealing and waxing the vehicle.

CHrOmE

DETAILING CLAy

Detailing clay not only removes particulates such as dust pollution and overspray but it also takes away any wax or sealant that may have previously been there. Therefore our next step is to seal and wax the vehicle.

WAx & SEALANTS

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First, paint sealant and wax are two very different products that can be used separately or in conjunction. Sealant is a synthetic polymer based product that leaves a glass like shine and typically lasts 4 to 6 months – sometimes even up to 12 depending on climate and driving conditions.Sealants are very durable and easy to apply as they always come in liquid form. Some products to keep your eye out for include Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0.

When talking about wax, most professional detailers and collectors prefer working with carnauba wax. Unlike the sealant, carnauba is a natural product harvested from specific palm trees throughout Brazil. Instead of the hard glass shine that results from sealant, carnauba wax delivers a deep, glossy richness to paint, leaving it almost glowing. Again in contrast to sealant, this effect only lasts 6 to 8 weeks but from a service standpoint that gives you as the detailing specialist a great reason to see your client at least that often for a wax (and ideally a few times in between for a simpler detail job). When shopping for your carnauba wax there are different grades and concentrations. The best product available is about 30% natural carnauba while the rest of the product is made up of other oils and petroleum based agents. You may see products advertised as 100% carnauba wax in which case they’re speaking to the purity of the carnauba that the product contains. A few carnauba wax’s you might consider should be Mother’s California Gold Pure Carnauba Paste Wax, Pinnacle Souveran and Pinnacle Signature Series II.

When discussing sealant and wax with your prospective clients, keep in mind that the two are not mutually exclusive. You can get the long term protection from the sealant and the depth of gloss and color from the wax. In the event that you apply both, always seal first, wax to finish and allow enough time for the seal to cure prior to applying the wax.

hAnd-polished vs. mAchine-polishedFrom this point on there are two schools of thought; hand polished or machine polished. For the sake of simplicity, safety (both to you and the vehicle) and cost, this guide encourages you to employ a “Hand-polished” approach. You can achieve effectively the same result as a machine without the risk of burning the paint, leaving swirls in the paint or otherwise harming the car. It may take a little longer, but not so much that it’s worth taking on the added risk; at least not in the beginning. Dual action polishers and rotary tools are also expensive investments. Should you decide after developing a thriving business to take the next step and invest in polishers and rotary tools, it should be a decision you make after knowing full well the business of auto detailing.

Again, on to technique! You can apply sealants and or wax either by hand or with a Dual Action or Rotary tool. In both cases you want to make sure the vehicle is completely dry and if at all possible out of direct sunlight. The most important rule to live by when applying sealants or wax is think thin!! A thick coat will get you nowhere and in fact leave a tarnished look on the paint. To get best results apply multiple layers as thinly as possible. Poly foam wax applicators do a great job when working by hand to apply a thin and even coat to the paint. Always apply the sealant or wax to the applicator first, then to the vehicle. After thorough application, buff the area out with a microfiber towel and move on to the next area of the car. If you run into any areas that leave behind streaks or cloudiness simply buff out with the help of a detail spray such as Pinnacle Crystal Mist Detail Spray or like product. If using a machine applicator just remember to apply the product to the applicator first and then before turning the tool on smear the product around the area of the vehicle which you will be working first to avoid splatter. When buffing with a machine applicator it can be helpful to wrap the microfiber polishing bonnet over the head of the instru-ment with a lamb’s wool pad for cushioning. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when working with any wax or sealant. Some will allow you time to apply product to the entirety of the vehicle before buffing out while others will require you to work area by area.

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You will encounter different metals in the course of detailing. Most will be on rims and trim but you’ll find variations of metal application throughout truck beds, trailers and even on specialized engine and exhaust systems – all of which require special attention. Ultimately you’re looking to remove water spots, oxidation, stains and tarnish. Some cleaning compounds that may be safe for one metal type may not however be for another. As always, follow the manufacturer’s instruc-tions. Let’s take a look at different metal types and how to treat each one.

AluminumAluminum is a common metal that really shows a difference once polished. Typically you’ll be removing oxidation which is aluminum’s natural way of protecting the underlying layers against corrosion. In the event that there is a protective factory coating, make sure to use a metal polish that is safe otherwise you may end up removing the coating!

To polish uncoated aluminum there are several products available which typically employ a phased application of compounds. Depending on the condition of the metal, you will need to start with an initial pre-polish and a 4 ply twisted compounding pad. This is like attacking a fence that is in dire need of a paint job with heavy grit sand paper first. Then, like moving into a finer grit sand paper, the application of aluminum compounds will really show the shine. If using a machine, you’ll want to work at speeds between 1200-1500 RPM on a rotary / circular polisher or a 5-6 on a dual action polisher. Work until the tarnish, oxidation or stain is removed and buff with a towel.

Now that you’ve pre-polished and polished, you’re ready to finish with a fine aluminum polish to kick up the shine and gloss. Following the same directions outlined above – either by hand or with the help of a 50/50 wool acrylic pad on your polisher or a mothers power ball mini or flitz polishing ball if using an electric drill (for rims or trim). Your clients will be dazzled and the metal will shine like new.

Anodized AluminumWith anodized aluminum, the oxidation that naturally occurs in aluminum is enhanced and reinforced to further protect the underlying product. It’s typically sealed or dyed and is not meant to be polished away. For this reason, most metal polishes cannot be used on anodized aluminum. Flitz metal polish, fiberglass & paint restorer however is an exception to the rule.

chromeThe main culprit when it comes to chrome is rust. The best way to beat it is to stay on top of it – the sooner the problem is addressed, the easier it is to remove and protect the rest of the metal. Again, depending on the condition of the metal you may need to begin with a pre-polish to attack heavy calcium deposits, lime scale, oxidation or green tarnish. These are typically spray-on products that you allow to sit for 10 minutes or so, then gently scrub clean and rinse well.

From here, it’s much the same as with the aluminum; find a metal polish that states on the label that it’s safe to use on chrome and put some good old fashioned elbow grease in to polish and buff the chrome to a glimmering shine.

HOW TO POLISH mETALS

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As previously noted, when launching a new auto detailing business, it’s best to learn how to do everything by hand. Many pros never make the jump to machines as they prefer the interaction and touch that can be lost when machines are introduced. Still, should you choose later in your career to invest in machines, here are a few guidelines to consider.

When making the decision to invest in tools it’s important to buy quality products that will do the job you need for the long haul. Dual action orbital polishers are available from $100 upwards of $300. They’re really the place to start when it comes to learning how to handle an orbital polisher and can often give you more latitude when it comes to surface areas you’ll be able to work as smaller models allow for polishing smaller panels and mirrors.

Dual action polishers rotate and oscillate at the same time to prevent leaving swirls on your paint. Additionally, the free floating spindle assembly keeps the pad tension free and helps avoid burning the paint if you apply too much pressure. Some models have stick handles which can be removed and replaced on alternating sides while others have hoop handles that allow access from the sides and or the top of the polisher.

Recommended dual action polishers: Porter Cable 7424 XP Dual Action Orbital Polisher $125 - $150 Meguiars Dual Action Polisher G110v2 $125 - $150 Griot’s Garage 3 Inch Random Orbital Polisher $90 - $100 Griot’s Garage 6 Inch Random Orbital Polisher $125 - $150

A forced rotation dual action polisher on the other hand has a direct drive gear box. In this case, if you rotate the polishing head manually, the gears engage and rotate. These models provide a larger orbit along with more power which allows for more restorative and corrective applications. Most units have variable speed dials allowing you to control the RPM’s as well as trigger locks and ergonomic handles for easy control and guidance.

DUAL ACTION POLISHING GUIDE

stAinless steelUnlike aluminum and chrome, stainless steel is a particularly hard metal which can make it more difficult to achieve the same shine as the previous two. Still, Wolfgang MetallWerk Fine Aluminum Polish (even though it says aluminum) and Wenol Red are both excellent products that achieve fantastic results with a bit of patience. Here, it’s not so much about the pressure you apply as it is giving the necessary time and buffing exposure. If using tools it’s more about the appropriate applicator speed than it is about pressure.

seAling metAlJust the way you seal paint to protect against the elements, you want to seal all the TLC that you’ve just given to the special metal areas on your clients’ vehicle. Wolfgang Metal Werk Con-course Metal Sealant is an acrylic polymer sealant that works well on all types of metals leaving a thin barrier between the metal and the environment attacking it.

Recommended forced rotation dual action polishers: Flex XC 3401 VRG Dual Action Orbital Polisher $320 - $350

Rotary buffers aka sander polishers or circular polishers are the most powerful of all. These direct drive machines are the tools of choice for professional detailers who are looking to do heavy restorative and corrective work. They have variable settings to set specific RPM’s along with trig-ger lock mechanisms. The backing plate or attachment systems attach to the head with a 5/8th’s threaded spindle. Keep an eye out for machines that have the ability to work as low as 600 RPM’s as well – they come in handy for finishing polish work.

Recommended circular polishers: Dewalt 849 Variable Speed Polisher $220 - $250 Flex PE 14-2-150 Rotary Polisher $350 - $385 Flex L3403 VRG Lightweight Circular Polisher $245 - $260 Makita 9227C Polisher $225 - $250

All of these models take some practice to get comfortable with but some general rules apply. Never apply excess pressure to achieve your desired results. Instead take it slowly and make more passes to get the job done right. Always work with the head flat and flush against the sur-face being polished and never start the polisher before making contact with the surface to avoid throwing product (wax, sealant or polish). When making passes, move from side to side then across again up and down. This will help to avoid swirls. Also keep in mind that there are lots of attachments such as Mothers Power Ball or the Flitz large buff ball for hand held drills that yield great results for smaller areas and save you time and elbow grease.

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Headlight restoration can be a tricky business and each vehicle is an individual case. Even with the best tools, product and procedure, the best solution may still be to simply replace the head-light covers. That said, here are some notes on proper restoration technique should the vehicle seem salvageable.

Just as UV exposure affects the paint, trim and molding on vehicles it does the same damage to plastic. That’s especially important to pay attention to when it comes to head lights. After just a few short years, the plastic covering on headlights can become cloudy, hazy or yellow – all of which can cut dangerously into night vision. There are solutions you can present to your clients which may quickly and economically restore their headlights. This can be a valuable service which puts some extra cash in your pocket AND goes a long way to forging a strong relationship between you and your client as you’re looking out for their safety as well.

Diamondite and Wolfgang both have headlight lens / clear plastic restoration kits that typi-cally yield fantastic results. The process is simple and similar to polishing and buffing paint. Kit’s typically include backing plates and cutting pads as well as attachments for use with hand drills. Depending on the condition of the plastic you will have two or three phases of product applica-tion (with associated cutting pads). The first step starts with plastic enhancers which polish away the oxidation and haze. Next, plastic restorers fine tune the polish. Lastly, plastic liquid protectants seals and protect the plastic against UV exposure. The process shouldn’t take more than 5 minutes per light from beginning to end but it makes a world of difference. Your client will thank you for the additional work and service.

As previously mentioned, when it comes to cleaning glass, avoid ammonia-based cleaners. Not only do they dry and age plastic, rubber, vinyl and leather but they will quickly deteriorate any tint that may be on the windows. They also release dangerous fumes that should be avoided – especially on the interior of a vehicle. Most house hold glass cleaners contain ammonia. Search out profession-al glass detailing products the same way you choose wax, polish and sealants.

Just like before, direct sunlight is the enemy here – shade is your friend and will keep the glass from drying too quickly and leaving streaks or residue. Microfiber towels again are the tool of choice when cleaning windows and glass. They’re lint free, extremely absorbent and don’t leave streaks. Long-armed scrubbers can come in handy when cleaning hard to reach areas like deep corners. A helpful technique in this instance if you don’t have a long scrubber is to put the microfi-ber towel against the back of your hand to allow you to reach deep pockets and far corners.

Some windows will require they be cleaned and wiped down several times. In this instance it can be helpful to employ more than one cleaning product and or finish the window simply with a microfiber slightly dampened with water to re-move any film or residue. When it comes to smaller windows, apply the cleaning product to the microfiber towel then to the glass to avoid overspray. Don’t forget to roll the windows down so as to clean the top edge of the windows. Wipe down the windshield wipers as well.

If you encounter tough water spots or cloudy areas, these can both be removed with the help of a dual action polisher or by hand. Just like paint, you can polish your glass. If using a polisher, avoid using much pressure. Once the glass-restorer product starts to dry, buff the rest out with a microfiber towel by hand. There are glass cleaning kits that contain glass restoring products or spray clay’s and finish-ing sealants to protect the glass from mineral deposits while also helping water to bead, improving performance of wipers and improving visibility when it rains.

A final step you can offer your client is to treat their windshield wipers and washer fluid. The plastic blades, like all plastic will dry out and even crack without proper care. Wiper treatments allow you to remove and soak the blades, keeping them soft and supple and ultimately more effective when cleaning the window. Windshield wash boosters go a long way to enhance the cleaning power of washing fluid. P21S Windshield Wash Booster works very well while Wurth Windshield Wash Additive works particularly well in colder climates as it contains anti-freeze protection in the formula. This type of attention to detail and preventative maintenance goes a long way in protecting and preserving a vehicle and shows to you clients that you know what you’re doing down to the smallest detail.

HEADLIGHT rESTOrATION Glass – The lasT sTep

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BIDDING FOr JOBSWhen it comes to bidding, detailing offers a variety of services and packages that you can cus-tom fit to each client. A good way to start is to establish a pricing schedule and determine which services you would like to include. A general pricing schedule might go as follows:

You will need to gauge your market and your expertise to come to price levels that deliver value to the customer and take into account your experience and knowledge. In the beginning under-stand that it’s a learning experience for you and as such you’re not going to be able to demand premium pricing. But as you mature and your skill set develops, you’ll quickly grasp how much your market will yield and how much you can ultimately charge. The figures above are averages that you may choose to start below and after time may surpass. No matter where you start, you can see that there’s plenty of money to be made when it comes to auto detailing, and the more services you can offer the more money you stand to make.

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Keep your design simple and effective – avoid using hard to read fonts or heavy design elements that can clutter up your message. Use large, bold letters to really get the message across. Now that you have your fliers designed and printed, what do you do with them? Rest assured, there are plenty of places you can use them. Here are a few excellent options: • Telephonepoles(ifotherpeopleareusingthem) • Localbulletinboards(neighborhoodsoftenhavetheselocatedthemanagement office or clubhouse, and you can also find them at grocery stores, hardware stores and more) • Putthemoncarwindshieldsinparkinglots(turnthosegrocerystoretripsintoa business trip!) • Handthemouttofriendsandfamily • Handthemoutatafter-schoolfunctions(Scouts,sportsevents,church,clubmeetings,etc.)

door-to-door: One of the most overlooked resources at your disposal might just be the neighborhood in which you live. Going door-to-door might not be glamorous, but it is definitely effective. You can easily walk your neighborhood once a week or so and offer your services to your neighbors.

You can also hand out fliers while you’re doing this. That is actually a better idea than simply offering your services and then leaving, as it gives them a physical reminder of your offer long after you’ve gone.

check with businesses: If you live in an urban area or a suburban area with plenty of nearby businesses (and you have transportation), you might consider checking with local businesses about offering your services. Some businesses are a no-brainer. For instance, if there’s a small car dealership near you that doesn’t have their own detailing crew, you can get your foot in the door here.

However, you can also ask business owners and managers if you can advertise in their business with fliers, or even ask if any employees are in need of your services. You might just find that a business owner will even let you hold a one-time detailing and wash event on their property, as it can be very good for their business.

website: A website is always a good place to start and with all the free template sites available you can put something together for free in no time. Wordpress, Wix and imcreator are just a few of the many options out there to create quick, effective and affordable websites to point your prospective clients to. Make sure to highlight a place for testimonials – they go a long way to turning prospects into clients!

use sociAL MediA: These days, social media is everywhere. Chances are good that you already have accounts on quite a few networks, as well. Why not put those platforms to work for you? It’s very simple, and there’s no cost to doing so. You’ll find that you can get your friends and family that have accounts to help pro-mote you as well – each share puts your services out in front of new people that might be in need of car detailing. Which networks are your best bets, though? Here’s the big 3: Facebook, Twitter, and G+.

FLiers: While they might seem a little old-fashioned, fliers can go a long way toward promoting your business. In addition, you can design them on your home computer and print them out on your inkjet printer – all it costs is a little time, some toner and the paper needed.

Even a relatively simple office program has some built in design tools for fliers. For instance, MS Word has some handy templates. You don’t need to spend money on an office program either, as there are free options out there that work well, such as Open Office.

Of course, no business can be successful if you don’t have any customers. Thankfully, there are quite a few ways that you can go about drumming up business (and a lot of them are free!). What’s on offer here, and how can you really draw in a crowd clamoring for your detailing services? Let’s run down the list of options.

HOW TO GET CUSTOmErS

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√ microfiber Towels√ wax applicaTor pads√ Glass cleaner√ clear plasTic liquid armor√ waTer blade (for dryinG)

opTional:√ Tire & wheel brushes√ conToured Tire brush√ dual acTion orbiTal √ circular / roTary√ buG & Tar pad√ buG remover√ compressed air

The extent to which you want collect tools, products and instruments is endless when it comes to car detailing, but no matter how serious you plan on taking your business there are few items that you can’t go without.

microfiber cAreTo insure that your tools do the job you need them to do, it’s important that you show them the care they need for a long, productive life. Microfiber is simple to maintain and will last for years so long as you don’t use any fabric softener or bleach and tumble dry with no heat.

TOOLS rEQUIrED

√ buckeTs (preferably wiTh a GriT Guard)√ mulTi-purpose foam miTTs√ naTural sea sponGe√ boar’s-hair wash brush√ Tire & wheel cleaner√ vacuum√ spoT eliminaTor (for carpeTs)√ leaTher & vinyl cleaner√ leaTher condiTioner√ body shampoo√ deTailinG clay√ clay lubricanT√ wax and sealanTs