how to make a batch of diy arrowheads

instructables

How to Make a Batch of DIY Arrowheads

by Alex 2Q

Hi Instructables Community,

it's been well over six months since I published mylast project. I moved to a new house and had to setup my workshop. Now that I'm settled I really lookforward to get back into making stuff!

My first project is a throwback to one of my firstprojects. Back then I made four arrowheads from anold circular saw blade. Since the video of this projecthad a lot of new views recently I decided to revisit theidea but this time with a twist. Instead of just makinga handful of pieces I decided to try to make a smallbatch with the intention to learn something new and

also to sell them to create a budget for future projects.

Another first was that I produced a video with acomplete voice over for the entire process so I wouldI appreciate if you had a few minutes to watch it.

Please note that I have added associate links toamazon products in this Instructable. Even if you donot want to buy a product I recommend I wouldappreciate if you could use the link if you plan apurchase. This won't cause you any additional costbut will result in direct support to me and my projects.

https://youtu.be/vMTQ6n1gv2Y

How to Make a Batch of DIY Arrowheads:

Step 1: Design and Stencil

When I made my first arrowheads I went into withoutreally knowing much about the process of makingthem. One and a half years later I have a bit moreexperience and tried to use that starting with thedesign.

The first design featured two barbs which, althoughlooking cool, was difficult to make and on a biggerscale would be too time consuming. I went andredesigned the arrowheads and got my followers onInstagram to decide which ones to try. In the designs

I tried to combine functionality with a little style andeasier production.

To create stencils I simply used a semi transparentsheet of plastic, transferred the two outlines and cutthem out with an Exacto knife.

Note: Since I was filming at the same time I probablydid not take not as much care cutting as I shouldhave. This resulted in an error in the smaller stencil.


Step 2: Material

As a material I chose an old and rusty two-mancrosscut saw.

This saw was salvage from a scrap yard with theintention to use it as stock for projects.

I spark and file tested the material and found that itwas both high in carbon and hardened throughout.The thickness was around 1,5mm so quite ideal forwhat I had in mind.

Some saws might be only hardened at the cuttingedge or made of bi-metal were only the cutting edgecan be used for blade projects.

An alternative would be thin circular saw blades orfresh stock from a metal supplier.

Step 3: Rust Removal

Due to the size of the saw I didn't want to go for achemical rust removal but instead for a mechanicalsolution.

I clamped the blade down with two Wolfcraft SpringClamps which held it in place securely enough.

A 5" Angle Grinder with a Wire Cup Brush was my

tool of choice and it took me less then 10 minutes toget rid of all surface rust on both sides.

It should be noted that I went outside for this to avoidhaving that amount of dust inside the workshop. Inaddition I want to point out that you should wear eyeprotection and a respirator for your protection.


Step 4: Design Transfer

To transfer the shapes I used spray paint. This issomething I had imagined to work way different thanit actually did. In the end the transferred shapesweren't as precise wherever the spray paint wentunder the stencil resulting in blurred edges. I alsothink that I wasted a lot of material or could havemade more pieces from what I had.

For more precise results I would approach thisdifferently. Probably make a sample from aluminumand use that with dye cam to scribe the outlines onthe material.


Step 5: Stock Preparation

In order to make the material easier to handle Imounted a 1mm cut-off disk on my Angle Grinder and

cut the saw into four smaller pieces.

Step 6: More Prepwork

The previous process was repeated again and again until I had all shapes cut into single pieces.


Step 7: Fixing Up Paint

Some of the transferred outlines got damaged during the cutting action or peeled away due to heat (one moreissue with spray paint). So I repeated my mistake but this time with a different color. Turns out yellow is even moresusceptible to heat than blue spray paint.


Step 8: Rough Shaping

During the shaping I developed this process (and Iwould advise to watch the video for this).

I made a little jig with a Toggle Clamp to keep thepieces in place over a water filled spark bucket.

I set up my second angle grinder with a 1/4" GrindingWheel (A flap disk would work too) and used bothalternatingly to shape the arrow heads. I would start

with a series of relief cuts with the thin zip disk whichwhere then followed up by shaping with the grindingwheel.

It is important not to remove too much material tooquickly and don't get too close to the outline to avoidloosing the temper of the steel.

Step 9: Shaping

The rough shaping was followed up by more shapingon my bench grinder with a coarse stone.

This removes material very fast so it is very importantto go slow with little pressure to avoid removing toomuch or destroying the temper.

Do not wear gloves when doing this! They might getcaught and result in severe injuries!

It might take a little practice but as you can see in thelast picture you can achieve quite good results.


Step 10: Sanding

I mounted my belt sander to my work bench to sandthe faces of the arrowhead blanks with a coarse 80grit belt. This had the purpose of removing anyremaining rust and get a flatter surface. There was

some pitting from rust in some places but I decided tokeep it as a reminder of the previous life thearrowheads had.


Step 11: Bevels

Once all arrowheads were shape I moved on to my 1"x 30" Belt Grinder to start the bevels with a 40 Gritbelt.

Since this grit is pretty aggressive it is important to goslow to avoid overheating the blade and maybe end

up loosing the tip of the arrowhead.

Keep a bucket with water nearby to cool the bladesregularly. A good rule of thumb might be to cool themdown as soon as they get too hot to hold :D

Step 12: Even More Shaping

I probably should have done this prior to creating thebevels but hey that's why we are learning every day.

I mounted my Dremel Rotary Tool in a vise and useda sanding drum to finalize the shape.

This worked surprisingly well and led me to thinkabout making a permanently mounted rotary tool witha flat work rest as a stationary tool.


Step 13: Refining Bevels

Since the 40 Grit belt left a very rough finish I repeated the process with a 120 Grit belt followed by a 240 Grit belt.In this step I ensured that the cutting edge was properly going from end to end. This wasn't so easy as I did thisfree hand without a jig. With the higher grits heat builds up faster due to the greater surface area that is in touchwith the material so again ensuring that the piece stays cool is vital.


Step 14: Polishing the Bevels

To finish the bevels I used a 400 Grit Belt and polished the bevels lengthwise.

To safe time I did this on the contact wheel and followed it up on the "platten" of the grinder.


Step 15: Surface Finish

One last time I went to my belt sander and finished the faces with a 180 Grit satin finish. Now if this would be aknife I would follow this up with some hand sanding to ensure all lines are parallel but since the arrowheads shouldkeep a somewhat DIY look I left it at that.

Step 16: Blackening With Gun Blue

Another thing I wanted to experiment was to use gunblue as a finish. On the one hand the matte blackfinish looks appealing and on the other hand it addsprotections against rust.

I used it once before to blacken a bushcraft knife Imade for my nephew.

From that experience I knew that I had to use plentyof the liquid for an even finish. Before applying it isimportant to thoroughly clean the arrowheads. I

applied the liquid with a brush as I didn't have enoughto dip the blades in. For an even finished I usedstrokes in only one direction.

Once the chemical had a few minutes to react withthe metal I used a shop towel to wipe it all off. Thisresulted in a very consistent finish.

In the end I polished the bevels with a 2000 Grit beltto remove the black color from the edge.


Step 17: All Done, Now What?

So I but quite some effort into showing and describing how to make arrowheads yourself. If you do not feel likemaking your own however but still want some you can visit my shop on Facebook and purchase them there.

Ah before I forget head to the next page to see how to attach those arrowheads to an arrow.


Step 18: Hafting an Arrowhead

So this is how I go about this, I haven't done a ton ofresearch so make sure you check other sources aswell.

To avoid splitting the wood I cut a notch into a 1cmwooden dowel (beech I believe). I used my bandsaw

for convenience but this could also be done with athin kerf saw.

I cleaned up the notch with my belt grinder but justregular sandpaper will do too.


Step 19: Hafting Cont.

A disk sander is very helpful with shaping the shaft creating a tapered shape.

Use masking tape to avoid having glue all over the blade after the glue up.


Step 20: And Finishing That Too

I selected a glue that I knew would remain flexibleafter the glue up as I didn't want too much rigidity. Inhindsight I would probably use a 5 minute epoxy nexttime as it has a longer open time and betterconsistency to work with.

I created a loop with the string and held it in placewith a spring clamp. Now I went back and began totwist the string around the shaft beginning approx.12mm (1/2") below the notch (this should help keep itfrom splitting).

The string was then wrapped around the shaft

towards the tip and in the end threaded to the loopand pulled back under the wraps locking it in place.

I used a small clamp to create some pressure duringthe glue up but the round surface makes this verydifficult. I will have to think about a better way to dothis next time.

Finally I used CA glue to lock the wraps and sealthem. It is important to keep moving while spreadingand massaging the glue into the wraps.


how to make a batch of diy arrowheads

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