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Huangpu & Luwanon the other side of the bund (another way to refer to the huangpu river), stone gatehouses line the lanes of outdoor shopping complex xintiandi and the surrounding neighborhoods. classic structures recall old shanghai while the restaurateurs, shopkeepers, and high-rise inhabitants fill it with visions of the future.

eat

1. mr. & mrs. bund mmbund.com • bund 18 , 6th floor, 18 zhongshan east 1st rd. • 86.21.6323.9898

on a rooftop high above the bund), a social scene—buzzes away, fueled by champagne and local chef paul pairet’s riffs on french fare. check the calendar for what’s rumored to be a completely wild bingo night.

2. din tai fung dintaifung.com.tw/en • xintiandi south block, building 6 , 2nd floor, 123 xingye d. • 86.21.6358.8378 bring on soup dumplings, smashed sesame balls, and steamed pork buns. lose count of the steamer basket orders faster than you can say “another shao mai, please.” down plates of fried rice and tofu puffs in noodle soup.

3. table no. 1 tableno- 1 .com • the water-house at south bund • 1-3 maojiayuan rd. • 86.21.6080

.2918 ~ small plates. communal tables. and a showcase of incredible ingredients and seasonal tastes you’ve never had before. prepare to be awed: there is even a dessert where the principal ingredient is butter.

4. el willy el-willy.com • south bund 22 , 5th floor • 22 zhongshan east 2nd rd. • 86.21.5404.5757

a lively and fun brunching spot with a view of the bund. dive into willy trullas moreno’s version of spanish cuisine served the shanghai way. “juicy rice” is the term for paella here.

photo: courtesy of photo: courtesy of el willyphoto: courtesy of mr. and mrs. bund

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Huangpu & Luwan

5. shanghai supper club shsupperclub.com • eat@shsupperclub.comthe roving, private dining club trend has made its way to shanghai. this one allows 20 guests at a time to mix and mingle on bunkers and roof tops (locations change monthly). email in advance to request a spot at a jamaican feast, a traditional holiday roast, or another culinary theme party. adventure is always on tap.

6. song fang tea house songfangtea.com • 227

yongjia rd. • 86.21.6433.8283 ~ a jewel of a shop with a tea room on the top floor. parisian expat florence samson curates the best of chinese and french teas. drink up, and pack plenty of the loose stuff for souvenirs.

7. loushi design coffee bar 145 nanchang rd. • 86.21.6438

.0384 ~ choose from extensive italian coffee offerings, and sip away as you peruse the open loft packed with design treasures from the past and present. drop by on a sunday and you just might stumble upon a cocktail party.

8. rooftop bar hop hotels compete to be the best perch for taking in the sweeping cityscape: the 58th floor at the ritz-carlton (8 century ave.) and the 89th floor at cloud 9 in the grand hyatt (88 century ave.) in the grand hyatt are spots with a certain flair. vue bar (199 huangpu road) at hyatt on the bund is only on the 32nd floor, but it sure is nice.

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photo: courtesy of song fang tea house photo: courtesy of ddmap.com photo: courtesy of grand hyatt shanghaibundphoto: courtesy of shanghai supper club

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10. hotel indigo shanghai on the bund hotelindigo.com • 585 zhong-shan east 2nd rd. • 86.21.3302

.9999 ~ the modern, wired, design-centric hotel nestled on the huangpu river has sweeping views of pudong and a clean, chic design philosophy.

11. chai living chailiving.com • embankment building, ground floor • 370

north suzhou rd. • 86.21.5608

.6051 ~ a concept hotel for a new world order—luxe apartments in a traditional 1930s-era art deco gem. take this opportunity to mix with locals. design is top notch, with beautiful kitchens and bathrooms inside loft-like rooms. a concierge is on call 24/7 for anything guests need.

12. south bund fabric market 399 lujiabang rd. • 86.21.6377

.2236 ~ tailors show off their specialties by displaying duds on the sidewalk outside their stores. decide what you’d like to have made (a trench? a tux?), choose your fabrics, stand for measurements, and then make an appointment to drop back by for a quick fitting before picking up the final product. turnaround is quick and prices are negotiable.

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photo: courtesy of photo:courtesy of jwalsh/flickrphoto: courtesy of hotel indigo

9. the waterhouse at south bund waterhouseshanghai.com • 1-3 maojiayuan rd. • 86.21

.6080.2988 ~ style backed by substance. to take a break from the bustle of the south bund, design buffs kick back with vips (very important pieces) from wegner, jacobsen, and juhl in lobby and rooftop bars, before taking in the sights.

photo: courtesy of the waterhouse at south bund

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16. artful afternoons contemporary chinese culture is non-stop at museums like moca (231 nanjing west road), rockbund (20 huqui road) and the urban planning exhibition center (100 renmin ave.) at people’s square. 70 installations make up the shanghai sculpture park in songjiang (pinyin new road), and a contempo collec-tion is housed in the power station of art (200 huayuangang road). luwan’s shikumen open house (181 taicang road) show-cases scenes of 1930s life in a three-story building.

(continued from page 3)Huangpu & Luwan

14. people ’s square wusheng road okay cupid: while it sounds downright nightmarish to think about mom and dad sharing your measurements and resume with other parents trying to snag you a date, it’s fascinat-ing to catch the weekend mar-riage market in huangpu, where throngs of parents hold signs and photographs in an effort to make a love connection happen for their kids.

15. untour shanghai untourshanghai.com • info@untourshanghai.comwalking adventures begin in the former french concession and are the gold standard of culinary tours—they're led by expats and locals who know all the hidden spots and back streets of the city. choose from street eats, dump-ling delights and night market strolls—or book them all.

13. dongtai lu antiques market dongtai lu, near zizhong rd. the stalls of the huangpu district market overflow with communist memorabilia, propaganda post-ers, and rusty trinkets, but much of what’s for sale is actually new. if vintage luggage is your thing, root around the authentically worn leather goods at a little shop called jia sheng (61 li-uhekou road), and you’re likely to walk away with something special.

photo: courtesy of urbn hotel photo: courtesy of untour shanghai photo: courtesy of shanghai sculpture park

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drinksong fang tea houseloushi design coffee bar rooftop bar hop

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Jinganjust west of people’s square, the northwest section of the historic puxi district is home to markets and malls like nanjing xilu. much like the shiny temple that lends its glow to this business district, the luxury shopping and international cuisines offered are solid gold.

eat

1. southern barbarian southernbarbarian.com • ju ’roshine life art space, area e, 2nd floor, 56 maom-ing south rd. • 13.62.1797.634

have a frosty pint at the ready when going deep into yunnan home cooking, the most eclectic kind of chinese cuisine. char-coal-grilled meats and herb-y salads are a given, but unexpect-ed ingredients like goat cheese, wildflowers and fried honey bees are particularly notable.

2. the commune social communesocial.com • 511

jiangning rd. • 86.21.6047.7638

the neri & hu designed space has four separate rooms: tapas bar, dining room, dessert bar and secret bar. move from one place to the next as the evening progresses, crafted cocktail in hand, of course.

3. beef & liberty beef-liberty.com/cn • shang-hai centre, suite 111 , 1376 nan-jing west rd. • 86.21 .6289.5733

the hamburger version of a steakhouse, with imported high-quality meat hand-ground on site—there’s no compromising in the world of artisan beef. a lovely craft brew selection and sides will push you pleasantly over the edge.

4. la poste 225 xikang rd. • 86.21.6266.8789

in the mood for seasonal french fare served in a 1920s converted villa? you will feel like you’ve been transported to paris via shanghai. sophisticated cocktails and an alfresco terrace make this a great stop for pre-dinner cocktails, too.

photo: courtesy of the commune social photo: courtesy of la postephoto: courtesy of southern barbarian photo: courtesy of beef & liberty

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Jingan

5. dr. beer 83 fumin rd. • 86.21.5468.1077

big, boisterous and all hopped up. brew-minded brothers to nearby dr. wine (177 fumin road), this industrial-size pub crafts five different beers on site. it’s good for a cold pint af-ter a long day of sightseeing and shopping.

6. papaya 2028 nanjing west rd. • 86.21.6249.5552 ~ laid back amid a lot of quirky ‘80s kitsch, the japanese bartenders chip-ping fresh ice are a tip-off that this isn’t any old watering hole. the other sign would be the expertly mixed drinks. from here, continue to bar hop along nearby fumin road.

7. wagas wagas.com.cn/en • 1168 nan-jing west rd. • 86.21.5292 .5228

all the convenience of starbucks and none of the “i should be doing something chinese right now” guilt. wagas offers solid takeaway coffees and grab-and-go bites. look for the other trusty, approachable concepts from the restaurant group, including mr. willis, la strada pizzeria and baker and spice.

8. punk juice j ingan kerry centre, north block n 1-22 , 1515 nanjing west rd. • 86.21.6252.1509

inside the boutique bistro you’ll find creative, fresh, eclectic takes on juices and smoothies—think along the lines of elderflower and avocado. healthy panini and salads make this a full lunch stop that will leave you fueled for an afternoon of shopping.

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photo: courtesy of punk juice

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9. cachet hotel cachethotels.com • 931 nan-jing west rd. • 86.21.6217.9000

the former jia shanghai is situ-ated right where you want to be: within walking distance of great food, shopping and cultural sites. there’s a dedication to art and design on the property, with a regularly held “art salon” and carefully curated pieces hung in every room. marble tubs (for next-level bubble baths) are another nice perk.

10. urbn hotel urbnhotels.com • 183 ji-aozhou rd. • 86.21.5153.4600

it’s not often that you hear the words “carbon neutral” in china, but this green-minded hotel housed in the shell of an old post office has been re-envi-sioned with reclaimed wood and local antiques. words like “sleek” and “spacious” and “hey, nice courtyard” seem to fit nicely, too.

11. the puli hotel and spa thepuli .com/en • 1 changde rd. • 86.21.3203.9999 ~ a 26- story, thoroughly modern hotel is still very much in touch with its roots. traditional brass incense burners, stoneware headrests, wooden foo dog statues (to ward off evil) and other only-in-china details play up the past, while high-tech gadgetry sets service standards for the future.

12. dong liang dongliangdesign.com • 184

fumin rd. • 86.21.3469.6926

from the street, this converted lane house doesn’t look like much, but each of the three superbly merchandised floors—featuring hard-to-find brands like vega zaishi wang and ricost-ru—makes the shop a must-see. take a moment to relax on the private balcony and be sure to pass through the mini art gallery before you leave.

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photo: courtesy of urbn hotel photo: courtesy of crystal meersphoto: courtesy of cachet hotel photo: courtesy of the puli hotel

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13. kate spade new york katespade.com • city plaza, 1618 nanjing west rd. • 86.21

.6288.2840 ~ after a long day among steel and glass skyscrap-ers, the ksny boutique on the second floor of this snazzy shop-ping center provides the perfect pick-me-up. brighten your day with a little help from the as-sortment of colors, polka dots and mood-boosting prints.

14. spin ceramics spinceramics.com • 360 kang-ding rd. • 86.21.6279.2545

three floors of gorgeous ceram-ics designed and made in-house fill this unique and delicate zen den. new craftsmanship meets centuries-old techniques and. everything is beautifully arranged throughout the gallery space.

15. madame mao ’s dowry madamemaosdowry.com • 207 fumin rd. • 86.21.5403.3551

make room in your suitcase. or better yet, just buy another and fill it with chinese propaganda posters, photos and antiques. there’s a neat selection of con-temporary furniture you can add to your wishlist for that future shanghai abode.

16. art scene warehouse palermo.com.arartsceneware house.com • building 4 , 2nd floor, 50 moganshan rd. • 86.21.6277.4940 ~ it’s a mas-sive, 18,000 square-foot space showcasing the newest and most exciting chinese artists. the art industry is booming in china, and you’ll feel like you’re right in the heart of the next big thing.

(continued from page 3)Jingan

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photo: courtesy of spin photo: courtesy of art scene warehousephoto: courtesy of kate spade new york photo: courtesy of madame mao's dowry

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Xuhuiin the jumbled southwest quarter of the city, charming lane houses, outdoor cafes and friendly watering holes of the french concession give way to tricked-out shopping malls, shiny chain stores, and electronic superstores.

eat drink

1. spicy moment 71 wuyuan rd. • 86.21.5403.0775

a neighborhood noodle shop for modern times. stop at the communal table and order from the condensed menu of updated modernized cold appetizers and hot soups. follow with a smoky treat and licorice tea.

2. azul tapas lounge azultapaslounge.cn • fer-guson lane, 8th floor, 378 wukang rd. • 86.21.5405.2252

peruvian-inspired cuisine and the dreamy rooftop terrace make azul a great place to enjoy that long list of pisco cocktails. take in the sweeping views of the skyline with every tipple.

3. bouquet bookbar bouquet-bookbar.com • 3rd floor, 627 huaihai middle rd. • 86.21.6315.0557

here’s some food for thought: how about a restaurant that doubles as a library? members can check out books from the massive collection (a collabora-tion with well-known xinhau bookstore), or just borrow one to brush up on mandarin while dining on the eclectic “social food” menu at afternoon tea.

4. cotton ’s cottons-shanghai.com • 294

xinhua rd. • 86.21.6282.6897

brunch for the people—and lots of them. make a weekend stop and take in the scene on the pa-tio at the historic villa inside the french concession. enjoy silver dollar pancakes and bottomless coffee or mimosas, and, well, more mimosas.

photo: courtesy of azul tapas lounge photo: courtesy of cotton'sphoto: the thirsty pig/flickr photo: courtesy of bouquet bookbar

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Xuhui

5. le sun chine lesunchine.com • 1220 hua shan rd. • 86.21.5256.997

did you pack your fancy pants? the butler will happily press them for you while you sip champagne in the library, swim laps in the pool, or take a stroll through the garden of this brit-ish colonial-style beauty.

6. quintet bed & breakfast quintet-shanghai.com • 808

changle rd. • 86.21.6249.9088

a six-room bed and breakfast in the french concession makes for a down-to-earth and budget-friendly place to post up com-fortably without feeling like a tourist. yoga, acupuncture, cook-ing classes and other cultural excursions can be set up accord-ing to your schedule.

7. uptown records uptownchina.com • 115

pingwu rd. • 86.21.6223.8368

peruse racks upon racks of vin-tage vinyl or stop by to listen to the dj's set. regular events are hosted for artists from near and far. dj sacco stocks the shop with all genres of tunes, but for a spe-cial treat, look to the china-only imprints. you can’t get those back home.

8. long museum thelongmuseum.org • 3398

longteng ave. • 86.21.6422.7636

founded by alpha collectors of ancient and contemporary chi-nese art, this is the single largest private collection in china. art through the ages is separated by three impressive floors. keep an eye out for preserved pieces of the original coal plant that once stood where the museum does today.

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photo: courtesy of long museumphoto: courtesy of uptown recordsphoto: courtesy of le sun chine photo: courtesy of quintet

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