hudson river guide (complete)

8/14/2019 Hudson River Guide (Complete)

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A Personal Travel Guide to the Hudson River

Lawrence Zeitlin, Cortlandt Manor, NY

The relatively short Hudson River, reaching from tiny "Tear of the Clouds" lake inthe Adirondacks to New York City has a disproportionate importance in US history.Many of the early battles of the Revolutionary War were fought for domination of thiscritical waterway. The Colonial forts at West Point, Garrison, Stony Point and FortMontgomery were situated at narrow bends in the river to allow cannons to bear onBritish warships trying to maneuver in tight quarters. It can be truly said that if the Britishhad managed to wrest control of the river from the Colonials, we would all be playingcricket and drinking tea with our scones.

In 1608 the Dutch East India Company hired English explorer Henry Hudson to

find an all water route to Asia through North America. They provided a ship, the HalfMoon, and a crew of 20 Dutch and English sailors. Hudson landed on the coast of Mainein 1609 and traveled southward along the Atlantic coastline. He explored bothChesapeake and Delaware Bays, eventually concluding that both were dead ends. Hethought he had found the desired route when he entered what is now New York harborand sailed upriver to Albany only to realize that the River of Mountains was a dead endas well. On a later voyage his crew mutinied and set him adrift in Hudsons Bay, Canada.The moral of this story is be nice to your crew. Hudsons voyage led to the lowerHudson valley being settled by the Dutch as New Amsterdam.

Figure 1. A replica of Henry Hudson's "Half Moon"

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The lower portion of the Hudson is a tidal estuary, which broadens into TappanZee, a brackish inland sea starting about 25 miles north of New York City. The Hudsonestuary is among the most biologically productive ecosystems on Earth. The constantexchange of salt and fresh water and the diversity of marine habitats make it a prime

breeding ground for over 200 species of marine life. Above Peekskill, the gateway to theHudson Highlands, the river narrows to conventional size but is tidal all the way toAlbany. The river is part of the NYS Canal System extending up the Hudson from NewYork City to Troy just above Albany. There the canal system bifurcates, becoming aseries of controlled water level rivers and man made cuts, one branch heading west toBuffalo with side spurs to the Finger Lakes and Lake Ontario, the other north throughLake Champlain, to the St. Lawrence River. A trip up the river at trawler speeds usuallytakes an easy three days. With stops to visit the Hudson Valleys myriad historic sites andscenic wonders, it can, of course, take much longer. If you have the time, rent a car inmid trip, perhaps at Kingston, and explore the many off river attractions mentioned in thisguide. You will be glad you did.

A good source of current information on the Hudson is a monthly free magazinecalled "Boating on the Hudson" published by Beacon Publishing Corp. in Verplanck, NY.Their web site is: http://www.boatingonthehudson.com/. The magazine has annuallistings of the best anchorages, fuel stops, and restaurants along the river. I have includedan edited collection of the listings in Appendix 1, Dining Along the Hudson, Appendix2, Fuel Guide to the Hudson and Appendix 3, Hudson River Anchorages. The editor,John Vargo, might be willing to send you future issues containing updated information ifyou will contact him. His telephone number is 845-401-2699.

The best book about the Hudson and its environs is the Hudson RiverGuidebook by Arthur G. Adams, published by Fordham University Press. While notspecifically a cruising guide, it covers geographic and historic facts about the river on amile by mile basis. There is also a very good book, "Cruising Guide to Lake Champlain"which describes the waterway from Montreal through Lake Champlain to New York City.It is available from the Lake Champlain Publishing Co. in Burlington, VT. The web siteis: http://www.lakechamplainpubco.com/. If the Erie Canal will be part of your trip, call(800) 4-CANAL-4 for a free set of charts and canal information from the NYS CanalCorporation (www.canals.state.ny.us).

Distances along the Hudson, like much of the ICW, are measured in statute mileswith New York Citys Battery considered to be the mile zero starting point. On the otherhand, tidal currents are usually described in knots. This is designed to exercise yourmathematical skills. For those quantitatively impaired, a pocket calculator provides auseful support.

New York State used to publish The Northwest Passage cruising guide to theHudson and Lake Champlain, including a bound copy of river charts, but I havent seenone in a long time. The name refers to Henry Hudsons futile hunt for a short cut toChina. The guide was useful but the charts were exceptional. They were large in scale,

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each page covering only about 10 miles of river. They showed, in full detail, portions ofthe coastline that are often lost in charts of more moderate scale. Appendix 4 containscopies of the charts useful for trip planning. Remember, they are not to be used fornavigation.

New York State has published a new set of smaller charts as a companion volumeto the NYS Canal Corporation Cruising Guide to the New York State Canal System. Itis currently available at marine supply stores in the Hudson Valley or can be ordered fromthe NYS Canal Corporation. The state also publishes a Hudson River waterfront map andtravel guide listing marinas, dining, attractions, and accommodations. A free copy isavailable if you call 1-800-232-4782 or log on to www.travelhudsonvalley.org. SkipperBob Publications offers excellent guides to New Yorks waterways in Cruising the NewYork Canal System and Anchorages Along the Intracoastal Waterway.

NOAA charts covering the river are #12343 New York to Wappinger Creek,#12347 Wappinger Creek to Hudson, and #12348 Coxsackie to Troy. The Maptech

Chartbook Hudson River and New York Harbor has all the necessary charts. After Troyyou enter either the Erie Canal or the Champlain Canal. Charts are of little use in eithercanal but the NYS Canal Corporation guide presents valuable information on distancesbetween locks and available facilities.

The Northern Edition of the Waterway Guide has a listing of marinas andfacilities along the river and the Erie Canal. Local harbor charts are included. It is veryinformative but highly commercial. A full set of Richardson bound charts of the river andadjoining waterways costs $69. These charts cover the Hudson, the Erie and Champlaincanals, Lake Champlain and the Finger Lakes. Serious cruisers should certainly have aset. All charts of the river must be used with caution. They are updated infrequently.Because the river bottom changes little by little, local knowledge is essential whenleaving the big ship channel.

If you are a member of the AAA or one of its associated automobile clubs, youcan download a detailed TripTik from the AAA web site (www.aaa.com). Just enter yourstarting point and the towns and cities near your route. The printout will contain lodgings,restaurants, attractions and scheduled events. This listing is useful for boaters in the NewYork and New England area since most cities and towns were established adjacent tonavigable waterways. The bulk of New York States population lives within a few milesof Long Island Sound, the Hudson River, or the Erie and Champlain Canals.

The Hudson can be done without charts if you keep to the buoyed big shipchannel. However if you do that, you will miss many of the best sights and shoreexcursions. Parts of the upper Hudson are quite shallow outside of the channel but if youdon't mind picking your way with a depth finder, most town docks are approachable. Inthe early spring, rapid runoff from snow melt sweeps shore side debris and fallenbranches into the river. Keep a sharp lookout for partly submerged branches. It is best notto travel at night. By June most debris has been swept out to sea.

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A tide and current chart is essential for sailing or trawler cruising. The tidal rangeis only about 3 feet but the tidal flow generally overwhelms the fresh water dischargefrom upstate. Current runs in both directions following the ebb and flood of the tide."Muhheakantuck", the Indian name for the river, can be translated as "the river that flowsboth ways." The tidal current in the more constricted portions of the river can reach

almost 3 knots. The speed of the ebb and flow currents are so nearly matched that itwould take a bottle dropped in the river at Albany almost half a year to reach New YorkCity, 150 miles downstream. If you time it right, you can get a tidal lift for several hoursin either direction. Indeed, 18th century sailboats often used the tidal flow to makeprogress against unfavorable winds. They would ride the current in the direction theywished to travel, then anchor and wait until the next tide. The tidal crest moves up river atabout 15 miles an hour, high tide at Albany occurring 10 hours after high tide at NewYork's Battery.

Hudson River towns are located about 10 miles apart from New York to Albany.This was a convenient half working day's sail in the old Hudson River sloops. Old

records show that given unusually favorable wind and tides the 70 foot long sloops couldsail from Manhattan to Albany in 24 hours. The towns generally have good waterfrontaccess and many have public docks. The river and the associated Erie Canal and LakeChamplain waterways were the main avenues for commerce for the Northeast for overtwo hundred years and have a well established, if aging, marine infrastructure.Supermarkets, drug stores, welding shops, and marine chandleries are usually no morethan a few minutes walk from town docks. If you have bicycles on board you can roamseveral miles inland from each stop. This puts you within easy reach of a shoreline filledwith an extraordinary concentration of National Historic Landmarks and romantic sites.

Because of access to water transportation, the Hudson Valley was the nation'sindustrial heartland until the middle of the 19th century. If you look at a map you will seethat the Appalachian mountain range makes a formidable barrier between the cities on theEast coast and the nations interior. Transport of people and goods was possible only byhorse and wagon. By a quirk of nature the Hudson River cuts through a gap in themountain range and enables water passage from New York City to Albany. The openingof the original Erie Canal in 1825 provided water passage from New York through toBuffalo and the Great Lakes and opened the interior of the country to commerce. Manyof the cities along the Hudson and Erie Canal were settled to provide venues for canalservices and manufacturing. They are old, dating from the early 1800s.

Locals are fond of joking that the area reached its economic zenith during theCivil War and has been going downhill ever since. As far as appearance goes, they areright. Once you get a few miles north of New York City you have the feeling that youhave sailed a century back in time. The main Amtrak rail line runs close to the water onthe east side of the river. Just about every town is a stopping point. By a happycoincidence the town docks and most marinas are within walking distance of the stations.This makes it convenient for picking up and dropping off passengers who willaccompany you on part of the trip. Albany and New York City are major rail junctionsconnecting with the rest of the country. Any point on the river is only a few hours distant

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from either location. Commuter trains travel the line hourly and much more frequentlyduring rush hours.

Despite the beauty of the land around it, the Hudson was one of the nations firstecological horror stories. The river was over fished to provide cheap food for New York

Citys immigrants. Logging from upstate and manufacturing activities from river townspolluted the water. With the advent of the railroad, the river front was allowed todeteriorate as docks and facilities decayed. Rich folks built their houses on the heightsaway from the shoreline. From a pristine waterway the river turned into an open sewer bythe late 1800s and early 1900s.

Fortunately a consortium of the wealthy saved it. Not out of public spirit butbecause they didnt want the view from their hillside estates despoiled. Upriver forestswere purchased and the Adirondack region was turned into a forever wild state parkthree times the size of Yellowstone. Thanks to the Roosevelts (Theodore), theRockefellers, the Vanderbilts, etc. the river began its comeback. New state laws curbed

pollution of the waterway. Many industries moved to the South or to the banks of theMississippi where a bit of environmental degradation was tolerated in the name ofprogress. My own region lost distilleries, chemical plants, smelting and brick making,and paint manufacturing. Even the Crayola crayon company moved to Pennsylvania.

Unfortunately as the river began its comeback, the riverside communities sufferedeconomically. Towns like Newburgh, Peekskill, and Poughkeepsie lost their industrialbase. The people remained but there was less work. Buildings and infrastructuredeteriorated. However, it was not bad for everybody. Technology and service based firmsmoved to the Hudson Valley to fill the vacuum left by manufacturing industries. IBM,GE, Pepsico and others established administrative and research centers. The railroad linesalong the Hudson offered rapid commuter access to New York City and Albany. Theprocess of transformation from blue collar to white collar is well underway. The visibleevidence of the change is evidenced by the upscale housing developments and marinasthat dot the shoreline from New York to Poughkeepsie. Local residents have rediscoveredthe waterfront. Although not everyone is a boater, most riverside parks have beenexpanded and spruced up and a Hudson River shoreside trailway is slowly beingimplemented to let hikers, bicyclists, and even roller skaters travel the length of the river.

Although some commercial shipping remains, the graceful Hudson Riversidewheelers which overnighted between New York City and Albany are long gone. Eventhe day trip boats which brought hoards of visitors from the city to Bear Mountain everynice summer weekend stopped running in the late 60s. This works to the advantage ofrecreational boaters since many of the facilities and anchorage areas are still available.

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Figure 2. 9/11 Memorial in Haverstraw.

You are not likely to go hungry on a cruise in the Hudson Valley. A confluence ofhigh quality agricultural land, specialty farms, culinary talent, and affluent demandingcustomers has made the region a gourmets nirvana. If the truth must be told, youprobably will not get a Michelins four fork meal at any of the restaurants associated withmarinas along the waterway. These generally serve generous portions of food that arepopular with the weekend boating crowd. Steaks, seafood, burgers, fries and beer tend todominate the menu. Filling and satisfying but not the best that the region has to offer.However within walking distance of many of the marinas are some of the finestrestaurants in the country. Ill mention those I found to be particularly good, but your bestguide to this culinary abundance is a copy of the current Zagats Survey of Westchester

and Hudson River Valley Restaurants. Every major bookstore can get you a copy for theprice of a couple of Big Macs. If you like to eat, never boat the Hudson without it.

I've cruised over much of the East Coast and find sailing in the Hudson Valleyboth attractive and challenging. Summer boating on the Hudson is much like boating inthe British Virgins, minus the accents and cheap rum of course. Cruising distances arecomparable to those in the Virgins too, just long enough for a day trip with attractivedestinations in most directions. The surrounding mountains channel the predominantly

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westerly winds into unusual patterns, sometimes punctuated by violent short livedsummer storms. When combined with the tidal flow and the occasional whirlpool,cruising, under either power or sail becomes interesting.

Diesel fuel prices tend to be high along the Hudson and the Erie Canal. Many of

the real yacht clubs on the Hudson stopped selling fuel when the government requiredseparate tanks for commercial and recreational fuels. The coup d'grace was EPA rulesrequiring tank certification to assure that there was no leakage. Fortunately a number offuel suppliers remained on the waterfront since their supplies are generally delivered bybarge. Places that sell fuel identify themselves by a large oil company sign (Texaco, Esso,Mobil, etc.) easily visible from the water. Most homes in the Hudson Valley are heated byfuel oil. If you buy your heating oil from a local supplier, you also get a good discount ondiesel fuel. I suspect that you may also be getting a good portion of #2 heating oil addedto the mix, but my engine thrives on it. Boat US members get a discount at manymarinas.

When you stop to buy fuel take the opportunity to empty your holding tank. In2004 the entire river from the Battery to Albany was declared a no discharge zone. This isparticularly ironic since dredging for PCBs in the upper Hudson and legally permittedmunicipal sewage discharge from riverside communities contaminate the river far beyondthe capabilities of marine heads. One justification is that water from the fresh waterregion of the river can be used to augment the New York City water supply in times ofdrought. Indeed there is a pumping station near Poughkeepsie which channels HudsonRiver waters into the NYC reservoir system. Thankfully this station has not beenactivated in more than half a century and it is unlikely that it will ever be used.

Holding tank pumpout stations in the less inhabited portions of river are few andfar between. You can use a Type 1 sewage treatment system in NY harbor below theBattery. The no-discharge rule is very strictly enforced in the Finger Lakes and in LakeChamplain. All sewage discharge facilities must be sealed or disabled. In LakeChamplain the connection between the head and the discharge valve must be entirelyremoved. The local police and sheriff's deputies can inspect on a whim and the fines areconsiderable.

Until the PCB scares there was an economically viable fishing and crabbingindustry in Tappan Zee and Haverstraw Bay. Several of the towns along the shore wereoriginally fishing villages. The broad flat area of brackish water is ideal for spawningshad and striped bass. Geriatric fishermen say that blue crabs once covered the riverbottom from shore to shore. In the 1800s sturgeon, weighing up to 75 pounds each, werecaught by the thousands, smoked, and the meat shipped to New York City to feed laborersbuilding the metropolis. It was called Irish Beef. The Hudson was also one of theworld's primary suppliers of quality sturgeon caviar. The last caviar processing plant onthe river closed down in the late 1940s but there is a going fish smoking industry nearKingston. A couple of the old timers still remember how to process the caviar and everyonce in a while a pregnant sturgeon is caught in a snare. In its day, Hudson caviar was

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said to rival the best Beluga caviar. It may well be. The few times I have sampled it, itwas excellent.

Figure 3. Sturgeon catch in 1890 at the Hansen Caviar Co. in Kingston.

Since the river has gotten much purer as industries cleaned up their act or moved

to less sensitive areas, the blue crabs have returned and sturgeon are making a comeback.No individual fishing license is required on the Hudson River from New York Harbor tothe dam at Troy. However a fresh water fishing license is required in the streams leadinginto the Hudson. You are allowed one striped bass per day over 18 inches. Unfortunatelythere are enough PCBs in the water that medical experts suggest eating no more than oneor two meals of Hudson River fish a week. Pregnant women should probably avoid riverfish entirely.

Long time river town residents consider the waterway to be a functional ratherthan a recreational asset. As a result, the river is under utilized for recreational boating.Except on major holidays or midsummer weekends we find only a few boats out andfacilities are typically uncrowded. Moorings are relatively cheap and dock space for thesummer is less costly than in coastal areas. You can anchor for extended periods along theshoreline as long as you dont interfere with boat traffic.

The Hudson Valley is a historians delight. Every town has its Revolutionary Warbattle, or hero, or place where George Washington spent the night. A large group ofhistory buffs devote their summers to reenacting the Revolutionary War events that tookplace along the Hudson, Champlain and Mohawk Valleys. The reenactments take place in

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a variety of settings, usually on the original sites where battles were fought. The crucialcampaign of the Revolutionary War was not Washington crossing the Delaware but thefailed plan of British General Burgoyne to move his army south from Canada to Albanyand meet up with General Howe's army moving north from New York. If successful, thisplan would have cut off the belligerent New England colonies from the rest of the

country. Burgoynes defeat at Saratoga was the turning point of the war and brought theFrench in on the American side. Almost all of the battle sites, Valcour Island, CrownPoint, Ft. Ticonderoga, Ft. Edward, Whitehall, Saratoga, Oriskany, and Ft. Stanwix areadjacent to the Hudson, the Erie Canal, or Lake Champlain. Your summer cruise maywell take you into the middle of a battle enactment. So don't be alarmed if smooth boremusket balls drop on deck or you see the flash and hear the boom of black powdercannons. They are not shooting at you, merely trying to reenact a moment in history. Toview the reenactments up close, visit the 3 Valleys to Freedom website(www.TheNorthernCampaign.org) for a detailed listing of the events.

New York harbor is an exciting experience for boaters used to more tranquil

waters. There is an enormous amount of traffic but there is also a lot of sailing room. Analert skipper should have little difficulty. That is if he (or she) can keep eyes on the waterand not stare at the buildings, bridges, ferryboats, and Statue of Liberty. It would be avery good idea to transit the harbor during the daytime especially if you are notintimately familiar with the waterway. There are so many lights that it is difficult toseparate the navigation markers from the neon lights and taxicabs ashore. Radar doesn'thelp much either unless you are a true virtuoso at the console. The navigation rulesimposed after the 9/11 attack require you to keep your distance from governmentinstallations, bridge foundations, Ellis Island and Liberty Island. Usually 200 yards isenough. It is wise to keep even further from Liberty Island since the water depth is only 4feet at low tide. Check with the USCG to determine current pleasure boat regulations forthe harbor.

Figure 4. New York harbor.

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Ten bridges, two tunnels and several high speed ferries cross the Hudson betweenNYC and Albany. The bridges make convenient navigational reference points. Most arespaced about half a day's leisurely cruise apart at trawler speeds. The first bridge, and thegenerally accepted entrance portal of the river, is the massive and beautiful George

Washington Bridge. This double deck bridge carries the bulk of vehicle traffic from therest of the continental U. S. to the lands east of the river. Wave nicely to the 16 lanes ofbumper to bumper traffic as you cruise tranquilly below.

Once through the harbor and past the George Washington Bridge, eleven milesnorth of the Battery, the Palisade Cliffs border the west shore and the commercial boattraffic decreases. Yonkers, on the east shore, is a suburb of New York that would be thestate's fourth largest city if it werent attached at the hip to the urban metropolitan area.Yonkers is known as the home of the Otis elevator, the device that makes high risebuildings possible. It is the also setting for "Hello Dolly but dont expect to see thescenes depicted in the film. Most of the exterior shooting was done further up the river.

Yonkers has several boat clubs that offer emergency haven but most travelers stay furthernorth along the Hudson. Dockage may be available at the Yonkers Yacht Club (914) 969-9325, the Palisade Boat Club (914) 737-9515, or the Yonkers Corinthian Yacht Club(914) 376-3183. It would be wise to check by phone first to determine slip availability.

The Village of Hastings, a few miles north of Yonkers, has few amenities forcruisers. Transient berths may be available at the Hastings Pioneer Boat Club (914) 478-9702 or the Tower Ridge Yacht Club (914) 478-9729. If, by chance, you stay in Yonkersor in Hastings, be sure to check out Hudson River Museum (914) 963-4550 (www.hrm.org).The museum is located in two classic 18th century mansions and features both modern artworks and the works of Hudson River School artists.

The Tappan Zee Bridge, at the 28 mile point, connects Tarrytown and Nyack andmarks the start of the real cruising area. A mile south of the bridge, a spur of land sticksout from the western shore. This is the Piermont Pier, the abandoned eastern terminus ofthe Erie Railroad. The Tappan Zee Marina (845-365-1985) is several hundred yards northof the pier. Stay away from the southern side of the pier. It is extremely shallow and thereare hidden deadheads.

Piermont, at least the pier area, has become an upscale art and restaurant center.Xaviars at Piermont (845-359-7007) is the best restaurant in the Hudson Valley if notone of the best in the entire New York area. Zagats rates it 29 out of a possible 30. Thetop New York City restaurants rank only a 28. The tab at Xaviers will be high, but if youwant to treat yourself royally, this is the place. Xaviars companion restaurant, TheFreelance Caf and Wine Bar (845-365-3250) is right next door. The place is much lessformal, the prices lower, and no reservations are required. The food is just as good,however. No surprise since they share the same kitchen.

Above the Tappan Zee Bridge, connecting Nyack and Tarrytown, the Hudsonwidens out into a four mile wide, 18 mile long salt and tidal inland sea. The average

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depth is relatively shallow, 15 ft. or so, but there is a clearly marked channel for deepdraft ships and barges. Since they do not usually go outside of the channel, most of thearea is free from big ship traffic. Washington Irving said that Tarrytown was named byirate Dutch farm women who complained that their husbands tarried too long at thevillage tavern after depositing their goods at the wharf. Apocryphal as the story is, there

is no doubt that the influence of the early Dutch settlers still pervades the Hudson Valley.Many of the towns bordering the shore and the creeks flowing into the river bear Dutchnames. The Dutch word for creek, incidentally, is kill. This accounts for the frequentsuffix to many local place names such as Catskill, Peekskill, and Fishkill.

Yacht clubs on the river are primarily for socializing, dining, drinking andarranging sailboat races. The Tappan Zee area has boat clubs and marinas along bothshores capable of handling almost any service or repair. If you need any boat work done,the largest and best facility on the river is the Julius Petersen Boatyard (845-358-2100) inNyack on the western shore of the river. The yard is just north of the Tappan Zee Bridgeand can be identified by the armada of boats anchored in the mooring area out front.

Westerly Marina (914-941-2203) in Ossining, at the 33 mile point and in the shadow ofSing Sing, has excellent engine mechanics.

There are several marinas that cater to transients just north of the Tappan ZeeBridge. One favorite is the Tarrytown Marina (914-631-1300) on the east shore of theriver. This marina is protected by a breakwater, sells diesel fuel, and has a good attachedseafood restaurant, the Striped Bass (914-366-4455). The main advantage of the marina isthat it is next to the commuter train station to New York City. This makes it ideal as abase for exploring the pleasures of Gotham. A half hour train ride takes you to GrandCentral Station in midtown Manhattan. It is certainly much easier and quicker thanrenting a car and driving. The downside of the marina is the resident flock of geese thatpoop all over the docks.

The village of Tarrytown is a good place to shop and eat. The main shopping areais a couple of blocks from the Tarrytown Marina. It is loaded with upscale shops andsmall, but elegant, restaurants. Formerly a large General Motors assembly plant waslocated on the waterfront just north of the marina. The plant was closed about a dozenyears ago. To avoid taxes, the plant was razed and the grounds converted to a park and ahousing development. This explains why such a small village can host such a large andvaried mercantile establishment.

The Rockefeller estate at Pocantico Hills is a short cab ride from Tarrytown. It is a"must" stop for art lovers. Kykuit, the home John D. Rockefeller built for his family, isfestooned with the modern paintings and sculptures that Nelson Rockefeller spent alifetime collecting. This is one of the great private art museums of the world. Admissionto the museum and grounds also entitles you to visit the Union Church of Pocantico Hillsfeaturing stained glass windows by Henri Matisse and Marc Chagall. You can also strollover the bridge at Sleepy Hollow following the footsteps of Ichabod Crane, Brom Bones,and the Headless Horseman, all memorialized by Washington Irving.

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Figure 5. Kykuit, the Rockefeller home with a great private modern art collection.

The Palisades Park Commission owns much of the land on the western river shorenorth of Nyack. A paved footpath runs for several miles along the river in a picturesquewooded area. We often see dinghy loads of boat weary children being ferried ashore towork off their surplus energy by jogging along the path. Their relieved parents cruisetheir boats slowly alongside.

Extending about a mile and a half into the river, Croton Point, 35 miles aboveManhattan on the east shore, divides Tappan Zee from Haverstraw Bay. This spur of landis the terminal moraine marking the southernmost reach of the last glacier to cover thearea during the ice age. The melting waters of the glacier carved out the Hudson Canyon,a vast subsurface trench extending five hundred miles into the Atlantic. The north side ofthe sheltering arm of the point provides the best anchoring ground on the river. Eight feetof water covers a hard sand bottom. A brief dinghy ride to the town dock gives easyaccess to Croton-on-Hudson's stores, restaurants, marine chandleries and the commuterrailroad to NYC. For those with hardy appetites, or with teen aged children aboard, theCroton Colonial Restaurant, about a blocks walk from the Croton landing features hugeportions, low prices, and an extremely varied menu. But if you really want a gourmetmeal, the best seafood restaurant on the Hudson River, and perhaps the entire New Yorkarea, is the Ocean House (914-271-0702) on 49 N. Riverside Avenue, also about oneblock from the Croton town dock. This tiny restaurant serves only dinner from 5 to 9 p.m.from Tuesday though Saturday. The specials change every day, depending on what is bestat the Fulton Fish Market, but one stable item on the menu is an appetizer of mussels incream sauce the most sublime I have ever eaten. Zagat rates it 28 out of 30.

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The anchorage area on the north side of Croton Point is a favorite destination forweekend boaters. On major summer holidays up to 100 boats of all types are anchored orrafted together in this large protected bay. The park itself is free and offers miles ofhiking trails, picnic areas, and a guarded swimming beach. If you like boating solitude, itis best to plan your arrival on a weekday. The bay south of the point appears inviting but

is too shallow for anchoring for boats drawing more than 4'. On the other hand, if you area fisherman, this is the best fishing area in the entire river. Dont cut too close to CrotonPoint when heading for either anchoring area since underwater rock ledges extend forabout 100 yards at both upstream and downstream ends.

Figure 6. Big and little boats anchor off Croton Point.

There are no waterfront marine services at Croton Point itself since it is a bigcounty park. For those boaters diffident about anchoring out, the Half Moon Bay Marina(914-271-5400), a modern marina attached to an upscale housing development on thenorthern shore of the point, offers transient berths with full services. The Viking Boatyard(914-739-5090), a few miles upstream in the town of Verplanck, has transient berths, alarge capacity lift, and a well-stocked marine store. Haverstraw, on the other side of the

river, has several very large marinas, including the Haverstraw Marina (845-429-2001),the largest on the Hudson. All the marinas, fuel stops, and boat services are detailed in thepublications mentioned. The Haverstraw Marina site was originally a large abandonedrock quarry in which much of the structure of the Tappan Zee Bridge was constructed.When the work was completed, a channel was blasted to the river and the bridge sectionswere barged to their final location. The former quarry became a perfect protected marinalocation.

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The oldest vineyards in the US were established in the Hudson Valley duringColonial times. There is local myth that the area might have been the Vinland of theViking sagas. Wild grapes grow plentifully on both banks. Croton Point was the site ofthe Underhill Winery, the first commercial winery in the country. The ruins of the stonewine cellars are visible on the south side of the point. Travel writers are fond of

comparing the Hudson River to Germanys Rhine and like its European counterpart theHudson has vineyards on either shore. Few are directly on the river but their excellentwines are available in riverside restaurants and stores.

Van Cortlandt Manor is a 15 minute walk from the Croton town dock. This wasthe family home of the Van Cortlandt family, the Dutch settlers that owned most of theland between Croton and Connecticut. The home and grounds have been restored to their18th century splendor and serve as a living museum illustrating the life and times of thecolonial landed aristocracy. The manor itself is attractive but the grounds are spectacular.

Figure 7. Van Cortlandt Manor.

A three mile hike or a short cab ride up the Croton Gorge will take you to theCroton Dam. This dam is the third largest cut stone structure in the world, exceeded onlyby the Great Wall of China and the Great Pyramid of Giza. The dam was built during thelate 1800s to impound the waters of the Croton River and provide fresh water for the

growing city of New York. A gravity aqueduct carries the water 40 miles from Croton tothe city.

Italian stone cutters were hired enmasse to build the dam. Many brought theirfamilies with them or married local girls and remained in the area after the work wascompleted. Quite a few were closet sculptors and painters. Soon the village of Croton-on-Hudson acquired a reputation as an art center. It was also a hotbed of pre-WWIradicalism. Many of our native born socialists and Communists, including Max Eastman,

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Daily Worker editor Robert Minor, and John Reed, author of "Ten Days that Shook theWorld," lived in Croton. Today, however, it tends to vote Republican.

Figure 8. Croton Dam

The Tappan Zee/Haverstraw Bay portion of the river gets choppy in certain winds.It is relatively shallow and has a long north/south fetch so the waves build quickly. Aninteresting weather phenomenon is the evening wind. Because the river warms and coolsmore slowly than the surrounding shore, an offshore wind develops every evening,starting at about 5 p.m. and ending several hours later. The wind can be quite strong attimes but usually stops just about the time to drop anchor. Mysterious phantom wavesseem to come out of nowhere. These are waves reflected from the river bank by boat

traffic which may be miles away.

At the top of Haverstraw Bay, Verplanck, one of the old fishing villages, hasseveral marinas that have berths for transients. These are located in Greens Cove, on theeast shore just south of the village. The biggest of these is the aforementioned VikingBoat Yard. The cove shallows to 4 in low tide so follow the buoyed dredged channel.

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Peekskill, a former industrial town, lies north of Verplanck, just past the IndianPoint Atomic Energy plant and the resource recovery (garbage burning) plant. Be sure togive these locations a wide berth.

Peekskill has a varied history. It was visited by President Lincoln, served as the

site of the Fleischmann distillery, hosted the Peekskill riots, and was the birthplace ofCrayola crayons. Teens of a couple of decades ago will remember it as location of themythical girls school in the Facts of Life TV sitcom. Now Peekskill is trying to make acomeback as an art center. Art studios abound along the short main street and there areseveral very good restaurants, notably Susans (914-737-6624), The Division Street Grill(914-739-6380), and Zephs (914-736-2159). The latter can be hard to find. Ask fordirections when you call. Zagats rates the food as 27 out of 30. Peekskill Bay offersconvenient anchoring and an easy dinghy ride to the town dock.

Figure 9. Peekskill Bay.

Just north of the Bear Mountain Bridge, at the 50 mile point, is DunderbergMountain, home of the legendary Dutch Goblin "responsible" for the infamous summerthunderstorms of the Hudson River valley. Sudden thunderstorms and occasional butshort lived squalls may produce very localized winds up to 60 knots. The dark cloudsusually give all but the most imprudent ample opportunity to batten down the hatches.When combined with the current, storms in Tappan Zee/Haverstraw Bay can be as violent

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as any place in the continental US. The secret is to anchor your boat in extremely badweather and wait it out. Holding is very good over the entire area. Fortunately the worstconditions are rare and don't last more than a day or two. It's no accident that the tallestpeak in the area is named "Storm King".

The Hudson Highlands are incomparably beautiful. The river cuts through theAppalachian range and the mountains border portions of both shores. Many have called itthe most picturesque stretch of navigable waterway in the USA, rivaling the Norwegianfjords. These views were immortalized by the Hudson River School of painters. The bestcruising area and the most magnificent scenery in the Hudson Valley extends from theTappan Zee Bridge to Kingston, 90 miles upriver. It includes West Point, Bear Mountain,and the picturesque towns of Garrison and Cold Spring. The Appalachian Trail, extendingfrom Maine to Georgia, crosses the river on the Bear Mountain Bridge. A bit furtherupriver are the Vanderbilt Mansion, the FDR home at Hyde Park, the Culinary Institute ofAmerica, Rhinebeck with its antique aerodrome, and Kingston with its restoredwaterfront and very hospitable attitude toward boaters. Cruising the river in the autumn is

particularly rewarding since the shoreline is ablaze with trees in their finest color.

Figure 10. China Park, Peekskill. View of the Hudson Highlands.

The nominal entrance to the highlands is the Bear Mountain Bridge, 20 milesnorth of the Tappan Zee Bridge. The hills actually start about a mile downstream at Stony

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Point on the western shore and Verplanck on the east. At this point the river narrows to awidth of 1500 feet. For years there was a ferry service here but it was abandoned after theBear Mountain Bridge opened.

Figure 11. Bear Mountain Bridge.

There is a good anchorage just south of the Bear Mountain Bridge on the westernshore near the Bear Mountain State Park. The water shallows rapidly from its 120 footdepth in the middle of the river and you can tuck into the area near the old excursion boatpier. Bear Mountain Inn (845-786-2731), a half mile walk uphill from the pier, is one ofthe largest log buildings south of Canada.www.bearmountaininn.com It offers both fine andcasual dining. The Inn is currently undergoing restoration but I have been told that thework will be completed sometime during the 2009 boating season. While the carpenters

are working, a good meal is available at the Overlook Lodge (845) 786-2731, a smallerand more intimate version of the Inn. I personally find the dining area of the Lodge moreattractive since it offers an unimpeded view of beautiful Hessian Lake.

If you eat at either Bear Mountain restaurant take the opportunity to get rid ofthose excess calories by hiking a portion of the Appalachian Trail to Perkins Peak. Theview from the top of the peak is spectacular. On a clear day you can catch a glimpse ofNew York City 50 miles to the south and see almost as far up the Hudson to the north. If

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you plan to be in this area the weekend before the Fourth of July, the anchorage providesan unexcelled viewing location for the annual Palisades Park Commission fireworksextravaganza. Watch some of our tax dollars going up in smoke.

Figure 12. Bear Mountain Inn and Park.

Figure 13. View South from Perkins Peak.

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Figure 14. View North from Perkins Peak.

Iona Island, a large marshy area just south of the Bear Mountain Bridge, is adedicated bird sanctuary. The island is one of the few nesting areas of Bald Eagles on theEast Coast. If you are lucky, you can see one of these majestic birds swooping down tothe river to catch an unfortunate fish in its claws. Swans, geese and ducks are the otheravian residents of the marshland and regularly patrol the anchorage area in search ofhandouts from moored boats. Landing on the island is prohibited.

Garrison is six miles north of the bridge on the eastern shore. Despite the fact thatthe action allegedly took place many miles to south in Yonkers, Garrison was the sitewhere Hello Dolly was actually filmed. Many nineteenth century buildings still existand the town has remained virtually unchanged in looks since 1890. Garrison is goodplace to stop, stretch your legs, and wander through the art galleries and antique shopsthat dot this tiny town. At the end of the towns two block long main street is a smallmarina and fuel dock attached to Guinans Country Store. Gwendolyn Bounds lovinglydescribed this miniscule convenience store and watering hole in her evocative book ALittle Chapel on the River. Regrettably the store is now closed because of the death ofJohn Guinan, the owner, in June 2008. Devoted patrons hope that the family can beprevailed upon to reopen for the 2010 season.

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Figure 15. Garrison waterfront.

The West Point military academy is a bit further north on the western shore. WestPoint has been called the Gibraltar of America. A brief glance at the geography of thearea explains why. The river makes a sharp dogleg turn to the west and is overlooked byrocky hills. During the Revolution, cannon mounted on these hills could sweep the riverand prevent British ships from sailing upstream. To further impede their passage, an ironchain was stretched across the river to Constitution Island on the east shore. This barrierproved so formidable that the British subverted the forts commandant, General BenedictArnold, to get him to hand over the fort. After Arnolds plan failed, the fort was neveragain threatened.

The huge West Point complex stretches more than a mile along the river. There isan inviting looking boat dock in front of West Point. Since 9/11 it has been closed to allvisiting boats during high security alert periods unless you can assure the dockmaster thatyou are a retired general. It is best to check with the dockmaster (845-938-4011) todetermine if docking is permitted. However if you want to visit the Point or attend anArmy sporting event, you can anchor at a nearby marina and take a cab. The ThayerHotel (845-466-4731), at the entrance to West Point, is notorious for its fabulous Sunday

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brunch. Make marina reservations early if you intend to watch an Army football game inthe fall. The transient berths in local marinas tend to fill up quickly.

Figure 16. West Point gun controlling the river.

During warm summer months the Military Academy Band plays outdoor concertsat the Trophy Point amphitheater. There is no charge. Guests bring blankets and lawnchairs and listen to music while facing the majestic Hudson. The band members are all

accomplished professional musicians, not cadets, so these concerts are certainly worthattending. The price is right too. For an up to date schedule of concert dates and programscall 845-938-2617 or visit the website at www.usma.army.mil/band/ .

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Figure 17. West Point from Garrison.

Cold Spring, at the 55 mile point and slightly to the north of West Point on theeastern shore, is, in my opinion, the most interesting river town to visit on a HudsonRiver trip. The mile long main street is lined with antique shops, bookstores, and allmanner of stores selling odds and ends to fill the empty nooks and crannies of your boat.The town boasts several fine old restaurants, most with a view of Storm King Mountainon the opposite shore. Two excellent ones are The Hudson House (845-265-9355) and theCold Spring Depot (845-265-5000). Both are within 100 yards of the waterfront. If youwant to walk about three blocks, the Riverview (845-265-4778), a boutique restaurantand bar seating about 30 patrons, has Italian-American specialties and the best brick ovenpizza on the river. My favorite is the Mexican pizza. It is so good that the memory of thetaste makes my mouth water as I type these words.

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Figure 18. Cold Spring Main Street.

There is temporary dockage for smaller boats, maximum size 30, at the ColdSpring Boat Club (845-265-2465). Resist the temptation to anchor in Foundry Cove, theattractive bay just south of town. There are a number of hidden deadheads below thesurface. This is definitely a spot for local knowledge. The southern part of the cove hasthe deepest water but check your depth finder carefully before dropping the hook. Thebay north of town is fine for anchoring, although a bit exposed to wakes from rivertraffic. The Foundry Museum in Cold Spring memorializes the now vanished arsenal thatmade both the first iron ship in the U.S. and the Civil Wars Parrott cannons. Incidentallythe town was given its name because George Washington found the cold water from thelocal spring to his liking.

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Figure 19. How Cold Spring got its name.

Pollepel Island, about four miles north of Cold Spring, holds the romantic ruins of

Bannerman's Castle. Bannerman was an arms dealer who bought up much of the Unionsmilitary supplies left after the Civil War and all the military surplus of the SpanishAmerican War. He stored them in a warehouse in New York City and sold them out of aNew York storefront. He published a mail order catalog of the arms holdings and became

the Sears Roebuck of munitions. Most of the world's rebellions from 1880 through 1910were fought with Bannerman supplied weapons. Eventually New York's city fathersbecame uneasy about having a munitions store in mid-town and convinced Bannerman tomove. He relocated his warehouse to Pollapel Island, figuring that the locals would bemore tolerant of a few hundred tons of explosive in the basement. The warehouse wasconstructed to look like a medieval castle, although it was made of conventional brickand concrete. Bannerman and his family moved there. Unfortunately the area is nostranger to lightning and the warehouse was destroyed by a series of fires (andexplosions) by the late 60s.

In the mid 70s my kids and I used to canoe the short distance to the island and

hunt for Civil War memorabilia in the ruins. All we found was a few belt buckles andminnie balls, but a more fortunate neighbor got a couple of single shot breech loadingrifles and a small field cannon. There is a fairly good anchoring ground to the south sideof the island but you need a chart to avoid a submerged stone causeway to the shore onthe north side. The whole place is now being developed as a state park.

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Figure 20. Bannerman's Castle.

The Newburgh/Beacon Highway Bridge, 60 miles north of the Battery, marks theend of the Hudson Highlands area. The riverbanks, while still hilly, are no longerbordered by the stony peaks of the Appalachian range. The Newburgh waterfront hasbeen developed over the last few years and there are marinas with transient berths onboth sides of the river. The Newburgh Yacht Club (845-561-5255) and associatedNikolas Restaurant are on the west shore near the bridge. Call for available space. About

a mile north of the highway bridge is the Poughkeepsie Railroad Bridge. Locatedbetween the two bridges is the Mariners-on-the-Hudson Restaurant (845-691-6011), along time boaters favorite. Transient docking is available.

Hyde Park, at the 80 mile point and six miles north of the Poughkeepsie (Mid-Hudson) Bridge, is the site of both the Vanderbilt Mansion and the Franklin Roosevelthomestead. You can visit the one most congenial to your politics although one ticketgains you admission to both. Anchoring is not easy in this part of the river. If you want tostop it is best to get a transient berth in a local marina. Two favorites are the Hyde ParkMarina (845-452-3232) and the Rogers Point Boating Association. Both sell diesel.

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Figure 21. Vanderbilt mansion.

Figure 22. Statues of Eleanor and Franklin Roosevelt at their family home.

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American iceboating likely began in this stretch of the Hudson. In the cold 1800sthe river would start to freeze at Thanksgiving and not thaw until Easter, creating a 100mile long avenue of ice from Peekskill to Albany. John Roosevelt, FDRs uncle, foundedthe Hudson River Ice yacht Club in 1869. Iceboats were up to 70 feet long, someweighing as much as 3000 pounds. Commodore Roosevelts personal boat, the Icicle,

was 69 feet long and carried 1,070 square feet of sail. It was alleged to have a top speedof nearly 100 mph in the proper winds and would race, and often beat, the Hudson Rivertrains to the next town. To the regret of many iceboating diehards, the Hudson does notfreeze like it did in the 19th century and good iceboating days are few and far apart.

Figure 23. Hudson River iceboats. Days like this are now rare.

When in Hyde Park, take the opportunity to have a gourmet meal at the CIA, notthe one with spies but the Culinary Institute of America. The CIA is the only residentialcollege in the world devoted to culinary education. Located on the banks of the HudsonRiver, the architecture and surrounding landscape are beautiful. The campus outdates theschool; before it was home to the CIA the campus was a Jesuit seminary, St. Andrew-on-

Hudson, built at the turn of the last century. After parking in one of the main lots visitorsmust stroll through the campus to reach their dining destination. The CIA is like any otherschool, bustling with students, except they all dress in chefs white coats and checkedpants.

The campus hosts four restaurants: the American Bounty, serving American andHudson Valley regional meals: the Escoffier Restaurant, specializing in various Frenchregional cuisines; Ristorante Caterina de Medici, serving traditional Italian dishes; and

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St. Andrews Caf emphasizing fresh seasonal ingredients wrapped with Asian inspiration.The CIA, along with the Cornell University School of Hotel Management, provides manyof America's haute cuisine chefs. Meals are prepared and served by third year studentsunder the watchful eyes of their mentors. The three gourmet restaurants all have topZagats rankings. You can be sure that the cooking and presentation are done right. The

students careers depend upon it. Of course some get As while others deserve Cs. Becauseof the CIAs popularity, advance reservations are strongly advised (845-471-6608). St.Andrews Caf, often called the best diner in the world, is the most casual of the CIAsrestaurants and takes walk-ins for lunch.

Three miles north of Hyde Park you will travel through a wide portion of theHudson known as the Esopus Meadows. A stone lighthouse improbably situated in themiddle of the river marks this location. It is there for good reason. Stay to the east of thelighthouse. The river shallows a long way from the shore and it is best to follow themarked channel. If you have a chart and a good depth finder you can find a safeanchoring site on the east shore if you draw 5 feet or less.

Figure 24. Esopus Lighthouse.

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The town of Kingston, another dozen miles north at the 90 mile point, on theRondout Creek, was for a short time, the capitol of New York State. It contains the mid-Hudson's largest concentration of marine services and marinas. A stone lighthouse on thenorth side of the breakwater marks the entrance to the Rondout Creek. Turn left justbefore the lighthouse and follow the creek under the highway bridge. Kingstons town

dock is on the northern bank.

Boaters view Kingston as the primary stopping point between NYC and Albany.The waterfront has been rehabilitated and gentrified. Kingston offers a variety of finedining places just a stone's throw from the town dock and riverside park. Overnightberths, including electric power, are available at the town dock for a small fee. There arewater connection spigots on the shore but you need a fairly long hose to reach your boat.The water is supplied at full town pressure so a pressure reducer is advisable. If you needother services, there are a half a dozen full service marinas on Rondout Creek.

Figure 25. Approaching Rondout Light at sunset.

This attractive community is exceptionally hospitable to boaters. Because of itshalfway house location, local boaters from up and down river often choose Kingston astheir weekend destination, stay overnight at the dock, gorge themselves on good food,

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and return to their own marinas the next day. Three favorite restaurants in Kingston areMariners Harbor (845-340-8051), offering steaks and seafood, Rositas MexicanRestaurant (845-339-5372), and the Ship to Shore Restaurant (845-334-8887). The latterprovides diners a free shuttle service to any of the marinas on Rondout Creek.

Summer weekends feature musical groups giving free concerts in the park next tothe town dock. The Hudson River Maritime Museum is just down the street and is wellworth a visit. Incidentally, Kingston has one of the best old fashioned military andindustrial surplus stores I have seen. If you need lengths of stainless steel plate, oldelectronics, nuts, bolts, and screws, pumps, fans, and electric motors you will probablyfind them here. Ask any town resident to direct you to the store.

Figure 26. Kingston town dock at dusk.

This part of the Hudson Valley has a number of boutique wineries located alongthe shore. Most are not accessible from the river but the products are sold in localpackage stores. While not yet in the same league as the wineries in the Finger Lakesregion, the wines are good and are a fitting match for the locally produced farm products.One good one is Benmarl Winery (845-236-4265, www.benmarl.com) at Slate HillVinyards. Benmarl is located at 156 Highland Ave., Marlboro, NY. If you stay at the

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Marlboro Yacht Club, you can reach Benmarl by a 2 mile hike or a short cab ride.Benmarl has tastings daily and hosts special events during the Fall season. Check thewebsite for information.

While on the subject of potables, in 2007 NY passed a law creating a new class of

Farm Distilleries. This law supports the centuries old New York tradition of agriculturalcraft wines and spirits. In the pre-Prohibition era, hundreds of small stills dotted thelandscape, offering farmers a convenient way to market locally grown fruits and produce.Distilleries are limited in production and the product must contain a minimum of 75%NY raw agricultural material. The new law permits tasting and retail sales on site.

The Tuthilltown Distillery (845-255-1527) is one of the first of these farm liquorproducers to be opened. It is located near the Hudson in Gardiner, NY. Actually it hasbeen reopened. The original distillery on the site near New Paltz dates to 1788 andoperated continuously until prohibition. The base product is distilled from either grain orapples. A local farmer has been induced to grow a special heirloom corn that is used to

make the premier product Hudson Baby Bourbon. This extraordinary whiskey is storedin charred oak barrels until ready to serve. The distillery sells whiskey by the cask as wellas by the bottle. If you have enough room on your boat, privately labeled casks from 2 to60 gallons are available. (www.tuthilltown.com)

Figure 27. Tuthilltown Whiskey. Drink responsibly.

Just below the Kingston/Rhinecliff Bridge there are several shallow centralportions of the river collectively called The Flats. Stay in the marked channel from thispoint north. If you have a reliable depth finder you can find decent anchoring locationsnear the shore or on the edges of the Flats. Small towns, the residue of the Hudsonsindustrial past, border the river. These were distanced a convenient two hours apart forthe 19th century paddlewheel riverboats that offered luxurious transportation betweenNew York City and Albany. Several boat works were located on the banks of the CatskillRiver, 111 miles above New York. One, the Allied Boat Company, built the first

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fiberglass sailboat to make a circumnavigation. Catskill was also the hometown ofSamuel Wilson, the merchant who supplied meat to the military during the War of 1812.The letters U. S. stamped on the beef barrels gave rise to his nickname as Uncle Sam.Uncle Sams house was so luxurious that President Martin Van Buren, "Old Kinderhook,"was married in his living room. And yes, Uncle Sam wore striped pants.

The Catskill/Hudson Bridge crosses the river about 90 miles north of the Battery.

The town of Hudson, on the east shore at the 102 mile point and north of theCatskill/Hudson Bridge, is the location of Olana, Hudson River School artist FredrickChurch's magnificent Moorish styled home and estate. Church maximized the esthetics ofthe location by picking a particularly beautiful view of the Hudson Valley as his frontyard, then landscaped the property to frame it perfectly. The home is open to visitors andthe gardens are lovely on a nice summers day. The town of Hudson itself is an antiqueshopper's paradise. The quaint village of Athens is on the western shore. The village has150 feet of free dockage to allow visitors access to town shopping. There are no fees at

the dock but also no services. There are several adequate restaurants adjacent to theAthens Riverside Park.

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Figure 28. Frederick Church's home "Olana."

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Figure 29. Hudson Valley view from Olana.

The river seems to divide at Houghtaling Island at the 125 mile point, near thetown of New Baltimore. Only the branch closest to the western shore continuesnorthward. The eastern branch runs for a mile or so then peters out. However this easternbranch is a fine area for anchoring out of the main stream of river traffic. It is a goodplace to prepare for transiting the Erie or Champlain canals. When we owned a sailboat,this is the place where we would lower our mast. If you anchor here make sure your

insect screens are in place by 6 p.m.

North of Houghtaling Island the river narrows but is big ship navigable and tidalto Albany. The waterfront in the Albany area is busy and commercial. Marine servicesabound although many are set up to meet commercial vessel requirements. The riverfrontarea is not scenic but, because Albany is the state capitol, there are many good places toeat and drink. The lobbyists see to that. One favorite is the Riverfront Bar and Grill (518-426-4738) at the Corning Preserve Park a few hundred yards south of the AlbanyRailroad Bridge. There is 100 feet of complimentary dockage. Many boaters stay thenight and fuel up at the Troy Town Dock and Marina just above Albany. This is aconvenient spot to stop for an early start. There are two restaurants on the marina site.

One, the Troy Town Pub and Brewery (518-273-2337) is noted for its mini brewery andpub style food. The name says it all. The more formal River Street Caf (518-273-2740)offers a variety of Italian, French/Continental, and Thai dishes.

If you are an art or architecture buff, you might want to explore the Egg, thefuturistic ovoid state office plaza that Nelson Rockefeller had constructed during his stintas governor. The building's public spaces are hung with many of the valuable modern artpaintings from the Rockefeller collection that were too large to move to Kykuit.

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Figure 30. The "Egg." This is a real NY State office building. It is huge.

The Federal Lock at Troy marks the head of navigation of the river proper. Youhave now traveled 150 miles upstream from the Battery. This is the spot where HenryHudson abandoned his northward exploration of the river in 1609 realizing that it was nota short cut to the Pacific. There is a concrete bulkhead on the east side of the river justbefore the Federal Lock. You can tie up here while waiting for the lights that authorizeyou to enter the lock. This lock was intended for ocean capable bulk cargo carriers andeverything is sized to suit.

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Figure 31. The Federal Lock at Troy, NY.

Once through the Federal Lock, you have entered the New York State Canalsystem, a connected chain of 524 miles of navigable waterways extending west toBuffalo and north to Lake Champlain. Side canals go to Syracuse, the Finger Lakes, andOswego. Opened in 1825, the Erie Canal served as the first all water link between theAtlantic seaboard and the Great Lakes. It provided a convenient route for west boundmanufactured goods and settlers and east bound products of farms, forests, and mines.The Erie Canal soon became the most important canal in the U.S. It sparked the growth

of New York City as a major port and made New York the Empire State.

The first canal was a hand dug ditch, barely 12 feet wide and less than 6 feet deep.Mules, walking on a path alongside the canal, pulled the boats. Canal boats could makethe trip from Buffalo (actually Tonawanda) to Albany in six days, carrying up to 30 tonsof cargo. Mules were changed every six hours. Many canal side communities got theirstart as loading depots and mule changing facilities. Over the years the canal wasenlarged and side canals were added to reach nearby communities. But the economicsuccess of the canal was relatively short lived. By the middle of the 19th century, railroadsparalleling the canal could carry heavier loads in 1/3 the time. New York, in an effort torestore the canal to economic viability, modified the route to include lakes and canalized

rivers and built a series of 57 locks to lift barges from the Hudson River, over theelevated ridge in the center of the state, to the level of the Great Lakes. The rebuilt ErieCanal was regarded as a major engineering triumph, rivaling the Panama Canal. Thecanal, now officially known as the New York Barge Canal, extended from New YorkCity, up the Hudson to Albany, and then to Buffalo. To no avail. Rail traffic was fasterand the St. Lawrence Seaway could handle bigger ships. Commercial traffic dropped offto almost nothing.

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Most of the commercial shipping you see on the canal today are oil barges,delivering fuel to canal side towns. In the 1980s the state constitution was amended topermit the canal to be turned over to the New York Thruway Authority. Eventually thecanal received a Federal designation as the Erie Canalway National Heritage Corridor.Today it is run primarily as a recreational asset, a 300 mile long linear park with the mule

paths transformed into bicycle and hiking trails. So much for history. Once you are in theErie Canal you will see much the same scenery as did the travelers 150 years ago. Thingschange, but in upstate New York they change very slowly.

Be sure to have adequate fenders before entering the canal locks. Use the largestsize you can find. The concrete walls of the Federal Lock once had cavities big enough toswallow a medium sized trawler but they were recently "smoothed." Bear in mind thatwhat is smooth for a tanker may be quite rough for the fiberglass gloss of a trawler. Thehay bales either loved or hated by Erie Canal travelers are no longer allowed by theCanal authorities. These were merely plastic feed bags stuffed with straw and hung overthe sides to prevent damage to the boats topsides from the walls of the locks. At the end

of the canal it was a tradition to give them to a boater going the other direction. Somebales made four or five trips though the canal before disintegrating into their componentparts.

Unfortunately this meant a lot of debris and shredded plastic bags in the Canalswaters. A good substitute for the banned "hay bale" is a large inflatable plastic play ballstuffed in a cloth bag. The balls are available at WalMart or A&P for less than $5 each butyou have to supply your own sack. These balls are designed to survive childrensplayground abuse so they are nearly indestructible. When you finish your cruise thoughthe canal, you can give the ball to a kid at dockside.

After locking through the Federal Lock, the cruiser has two choices. The first is toturn west into the Erie Canal and continue across New York State to the Finger Lakes andultimately to the Great Lakes. The second is to head up the Champlain Canal to LakeChamplain and to the St. Lawrence and Canada. Fees for using the canals were reinstatedfor the 2008 season. Passes can be bought for 2 or 10 days or for the entire summer. Theseasonal pass is cheaper than day rates if you intend to travel ten days or more in thecanals or visit the delightful Finger Lakes.

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Figure 32. Don't miss this sign or you may go the wrong way.

Both the Finger Lakes and Lake Champlain are desirable vacation destinations in

themselves. Many cruisers decide to interrupt their trip for weeks at a time in eitherlocation. The Finger Lakes are long, narrow and deep glacially carved bodies of water inthe heart of New Yorks wine country. The two biggest lakes, Cayuga and Seneca, arereached by the short Cayuga/Seneca canal extending south from the Erie Canal. Bothlakes are about 40 miles long and up to 4 miles wide with deep crystal clear fresh water.

The city of Ithaca, the prototypical college town, is at the foot of Lake Cayuga.Cornell University and Ithaca College, are situated in bucolic surroundings and resemblesets from a 1930s college movie. They are what you always imagined a college wouldlook like. A highlight of a visit to Cornell is a walk through the Cornell Plantation. Thisbeautifully landscaped agricultural research park contains specimen plants from all overthe world.

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Figure 33. Cornell University at dusk. At the foot of Lake Cayuga.

The Treman Marine Park, a large state park dedicated to water sports, is located atthe southern end of Lake Cayuga. The park includes launch ramps, facilities forrecreational and competitive rowing, and a big marina. The Treman Park is one of thelargest inland marinas in New York State with 370 wet and 30 dry slips for seasonaloccupancy. The seasonal slips are assigned by an annual lottery. Transient slips can be

reserved by a phone call to the park office (607-272-1460). Any yachts capable of usingthe canal can be accommodated. Transient fees are very reasonable. Ithaca is the center ofrecreational boating in the Finger Lakes. If you need marine supplies or want repair workdone there are a number of marinas and marine chandleries in the vicinity of the park.The prices tend to be lower than in Atlantic coastal areas. Many boaters from New Yorkand Canada simply spend the entire summer in the Treman Park marina and treat it as abase from which to explore the Finger Lakes.

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Figure 34. Treman State Marine Park.

Like any major college community, Ithaca boasts cultural attractions, theaters,

orchestras, and museums. The Hanger Theater, adjacent to the Treman Marina has anexcellent reparatory acting company that offers modern and classical plays throughout thesummer season. Harbor side restaurants are available for any taste and pocketbook. TheTaughannock Park, several miles north of Ithaca on the west shore of Lake Cayugacontains miles of hiking trails and a waterfall taller than Niagara Falls. The park has asmall marina with transient docking although many yachtsmen with larger boats chooseto anchor just offshore and dinghy in. For those continuing onward, Ithaca is a good placeto resupply. Ithaca is also the birthplace of the ice cream sundae. Ezra Cornell, founder of

Cornell University, was a rich dairy farmer and stipulated in his bequest that ice cream beavailable at every lunch and dinner served in college dining halls. The local ice cream issaid to rival the best of Vermonts Ben and Jerrys.

Watkins Glen, well known to motor racing fans, is at the southern end of SenecaLake. The Glen itself is a water carved canyon that is a nature lovers delight. The townitself is quite ordinary except during race week when you have to cross the streetscarefully to avoid getting run down by Lamborghinis or Maseratis. The land betweenLake Cayuga and Lake Seneca is ideal for viniculture. With 55 wineries, the Finger Lakesare one of the choice wine producing areas in the world. Many of New Yorks bestwineries are located in the narrow strip of land between the lakes. New York vintners

managed to crossbreed European grape stock with the hardier native varieties andproduced vines that will live long and prosper in the frigid land of lake effect snow. Inthe U.S., New York is second only to California in the quantity of high quality winesproduced. If international wine tasting medals are any indication, New York white winesmay be equal to the best in the world. Take that France and Germany.

A favorite summer pastime is the wine tour, hopping from one winery to the nextto taste the premier wine offerings and the gourmet foods. It is not as publicized as

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Californias Napa Valley tour but the wines are just as good. Most of the Finger Lakesarea wineries are near the water and are easily accessible from a boat. But it is probablybest to rent a car in either Ithaca or Watkins Glen. If you intend to take the wine tour besure to have a designated driver. You will certainly need one. If you are a teetotaler, not toworry. This is the area where most of the countrys grape juice is produced.

The last time I visited the area I counted 16 wineries on the shores of LakeCayuga alone, not to mention an equal number on Lake Seneca. By the time I finished thewine tour, I was in no condition to count. You can find a wealth of information on FingerLakes wineries at the Cayuga Wine Trail, Inc. (www.cayugawinetrail.com). Information on allthe wineries in New York State can be found at (www.newyorkwines.org).

If you decide to continue on through the Champlain Canal to Lake Champlain,you will be rewarded with one of the best cruising grounds in the country. The lake is thelargest body of fresh water in the United States other than the Great Lakes. It extends fora sparkling one hundred miles from Ft. Ticonderoga up to the Canadian Border at

Rouses Point. New York State borders the west shore, Vermont on the east. One of theprettiest stopping spots on the trip up the lake is Willsboro Bay on the New York side.This enclosed bay resembles a Norwegian fjord. The Willsboro Bay marina comes highlyrecommended. The lake's widest point is between the cities of Burlington on the Vermontshore and Port Kent on the New York side. Historic Valcour Island, the site of the firstnaval battle of the Revolutionary War, is fairly close to the New York shore, north ofBurlington. The island has several lovely and secluded anchorages.

Burlington is an excellent place to stop. With about 39,000 residents, it isVermonts largest city. The downtown municipal marina has been restored, although it isthe focus of a lot of commercial lake traffic. Its major advantage is that it is within shortwalking distance of Burlington's very pleasant shopping and dining area.

The waterfront exudes a cheerful, busy atmosphere. Many of the amenities are

seasonal, including public facilities on the citys threebeaches, boat rentals, outdoor foodvendors and tour boats, which open in the spring and close in mid-October. But it is year-round shops, residences and businesses that keep the waterfront alive. Currently, publictransportation to the waterfront is limited but handy: a free bus with a route that shuttlesfrom the lake to the Church Street Marketplace and on to the University of Vermont.

Those whose own boats are too big to explore the nooks and crannies of theVermont shoreline can, in season, rent small sailboats and kayaks at the CommunitySailing Center (www.communitysailingcenter.org ). The Lake Champlain TransportationCompany (www.ferries.com) operates ferries to the New York side of the lake and backyear-round, but the boat running between Burlington and Port Kent, N.Y., stops runningin October.

Scuba divers can, in season, explore shipwrecks, marked with buoys that are partof the Lake Champlain Underwater Historic Preserve. The maritime museum has teamedwith a local operator to offer shipwreck tours via a remotely operated vehicle (R.O.V.)

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from a boat on the lakes surface (www.shipwrecktour.com).There are several good reasonably priced restaurants near the waterfront. I've

found the following to be more than adequate: Taste of Burlington (112 Lake Street, 802-658-4844;www.tasteofburlington.com.); Skinny Pancake (Lake & College Building,

802-540-0188;www.skinnypancake.com); and the Quatorze Bistro (30 Main Street, 802-865-9700;www.quatorzebistro.com).

Mallets Bay, just a bit north of Burlington, is an entirely protected harbor,sheltered from occasional summer storms that hit the area, and lined with marineservices. Swimming is excellent although the water is cold until midsummer. The bottomof Mallets Bay is covered with freshwater clams that look good enough to eat. But looksarent everything. No matter how prepared, they taste like mud. One sight not to bemissed is the Shelburne Museum just south of Burlington (www.shelburnemuseum.org).This museum is a treasure trove of Americana located in 39 buildings set on 45 beautifullandscaped acres. The museum features 150,000 works of folk art, Impressionist and

American paintings and Americana. It reminds you of your Grandmothers attic on supersteroids. After cruising Lake Champlain you will appreciate the locals desire to protectthe pristine purity of the water.

Some of Vermonts most dramatic scenery is within a short radius of Burlington.If you have the time, rent a car and drive to Stowe and see what the premier ski town ofthe East looks like in the summer. Eat an Austrian inspired meal at the Trapp FamilyLodge of Sound of Music fame (802-253-8511; www.trappfamily.com). If Austriancuisine is not to your taste, Stowe boasts a number of other excellent restaurants.Harrisons, in the middle of Stowe Village, is a favorite of mine (802-253-7773;www.harrisonstowe.com). Take the gondola up Mount Mansfield to the top of the highestpeak in the state, then time permitting, continue your drive up the winding MountainRoad over Smugglers Notch. This tricky passage was the major escape route forrunaway slaves fleeing to Canada prior to the Civil War.

For those who cant spare the time for an entire Loop voyage, a popular substitutetrip is up the Hudson to the Erie Canal. Then the Erie to the Oswego Canal, the Oswegoto Lake Ontario to the Trent-Severn Waterway and the Trent-Severn to Georgian Bay inLake Huron. Retrace your steps on the Trent-Severn or cruise down Lake Huron to LakeErie and re-enter the Erie Canal near Buffalo.

This trip will give you just about every marine experience you can encounter butpirates, hurricanes, and salt water (except for the lower Hudson). A slightly shorteralternate trip would take you up the Hudson to the Erie Canal. Then the Erie Canal to theOswego Canal. From there travel to Sacketts Harbor and around Cape Vincent to the St.Lawrence River. Cruise amongst the Thousand Islands. Visit the antique boat museum atClayton, NY. Continue up the St. Lawrence, stopping at Montreal for a little R&R. Take asharp right turn at Sorel and continue down to the Richelieu Canal and then to LakeChamplain. Cruise the Lake until you tire of gorgeous scenery and crystal clear water.Then down the Champlain Canal and you are back in the Hudson.

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Prime boating season for the Hudson River is from May through Octoberalthough commercial traffic continues until the river freezes in December. The nominalopening date of the New York State Canal System is May 1. The ice has usually meltedaround Syracuse by then. The closing date is November 15. Travel through the canals

may be subject to delays early in the season because of high water. It depends largely onthe rate of snow melt in the hills. Get more information from: The NYS CanalCorporation; PO Box 189; Albany, NY. Telephone: 1-800-4CANAL4(www.canals.state.ny.us) and from: Superintendent; Canadian Parks Service; 1369Bourgone St.; Chambly, Quebec; J3L 1Y4. Telephone: 514-658-0681. Both the NYSCanal Corporation and the Canadian Parks Service will send you free information packetsincluding charts, listings of marine services, and places to visit. Most of this informationis useful or entertaining and you cant beat the price.

Before including a particular canal as part of your route it would be wise to check

for any limits on draft or overhead clearance or if there will be shutdowns for repair and

maintenance. Information on Quebec canals can be obtained at 1-450477-4888 or on theweb at (http://parcscanada.risq.qc.ca/canaux). Rideau Canal information is available at 1-800-230-0016 or at http://parkscanada.pch.gc.ca/rideau. Finally, Trent-Severn Waterwayinformation is available at 1-800-663-BOAT (http://parkscanada.pch.gc.ca/trent).

Boaters can expect waterfront activity in the Hudson Valley and Lake Champlainto increase dramatically in 2009. New York State, Vermont, and the province ofQuebecwill all commemorate the 400th anniversary Henry Hudsons voyage and Samuel deChamplains first visit to the region. If you start now, you can get a front row seat for thefestivities.

The only thing bad about this area is winter and taxes. In cold winters northernportions of the river freeze over to the delight of ice fishermen and ice boaters. This hasbeen happening less and less frequently, probably due to global warming. Years ago myson and I walked almost across the ice covered river at Cold Spring, counting the boatsthat had been swept away from upstream moorings and were frozen in the floes. The lesssaid about taxes, the better.

Much of the information in the following appendices was extracted from listspublished in Boating on the Hudson and other sources. My sincere thanks to John Vargoand the entire staff of that excellent magazine. I have personally verified most of thelistings but, of course, things change from year to year. Remember that this is a guide nota contract.

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Appendix 1: Dining along the Hudson

Below the George Washington Bridge

Liberty Landing Marina at 1-201-985-8000 Located on the Morris Canal, LibertyLanding Marinas headquarters is located on a large 1923 steel barge, THE WINTERGARDEN which was once a lightship. It has been restored to immaculate condition.What is interesting about this marina and the Liberty State Park complex adjacent to it isthe casual, almost country atmosphere that prevails while at the same time you have themost spectacular views of the Manhattan skyline anywhere in New York Harbor.Tuesday through Thursday dinner hours are 5 PM to 10 PM while Friday and Saturdaythe hours are 5 PM to 11 PM. The lunch hours are 11:30 AM to 3 PM. Sunday brunchhours are from 11 am to 3 PM. Telephone is 1-201-395-0300 there is free docking at themarina for the restaurant goers. VHF channel 72 is monitored.

The Liberty House Restaurant is a few steps away from the docks. Telephone 1-201-395-0300. Closed on Monday. Live jazz Wed., Thurs., and Sat. Lunch 11:30 to 3 PM.Dinner hours are 4:30 to 10 PM. Sunday dinner 4:30 to 8 PM. Free docking at the marina.Channel 72 monitored.

Cafe Newport Restaurant at the Newport Yacht Club and Marina, Jersey City, NewJersey, West Shore, 1-201-626-7200 Cafe Newport is located in the Newport Yacht Cluband Marina complex. The marina is located AT 500 Washington Boulevard in Jersey City,New Jersey. As you approach the marina you will be asked the purpose of your visit bythe guard. Just tell him you are going to the restaurant for dinner and you will have noproblem entering the complex. Continental cuisine prevails. The kitchen is open daily

from 12 Noon to 10 PM with the bar open later. Guest docking is available at theNewport Marina on an as available basis. You can call the marina at 201 626 5550(marina office)or 201 626-5552 (Dockmaster) for reservations and availability.

Chelsea Piers On The Hudson River and Surfside Three Marina. Pier 60 West 23rdSt.,Manhattan, NY, Chelsea Piers 1-212-336-6666 (This number will provide allinformation on the Chelsea Piers complex.), Surfside Three Marina 1 212 336 7873 (callthis number to be assured of dock space) Dock and dine rate is $1.00 per foot up to 4hours.VHF channel 68.

Ritas Burgers (located within Chelsea Piers) 1-212-604-0441

The Brewery (located within Chelsea Piers) 1-212-336-6440, East ShoreLocated just south of the aircraft carrier Intrepid is a marina at the end of West 23d Street.Surfside Three Marina within Chelsea Piers has temporary tie up for visitors.

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The Chelsea Brewing Company and Restaurant located at Pier 59 within ChelseaPiers, is the only brewery in New York Harbor. It features 29 varieties of beers with ten ofthem available at all times. The menu consists of appetizers and main course with anItalian flavor, There is even a brick oven where wonderful thin crust pizza is made!

Lincoln Harbor Yacht Club, Weehawken, NJ. There are a number of restaurants andgrills that you can focus on within walking distance of docking your boat at LincolnHarbor Yacht Club. There is a Dock and Dine charge of $1.00 per foot, (3-hour limit) tokeep your boat at Lincoln Harbor Yacht Club while visiting these restaurants.The Chart House Restaurant The Chart House Restaurant is available by docking atLincoln Harbor Yacht Club. It is an easy walk out of the Lincoln Harbor complex to nextdoor. The views from the waterside dining of Manhattan are spectacular. Hours ofoperation are 5 to 10 PM Monday through Thursday, 5 to 11 PM on Friday Saturday andSunday 5 to 10 PM. Call them at 201-348-6628

Ruths Cris Steak House, 1000 Harbor Boulevard Weehawken, New Jersey, 201- 8635100. Dinner is served daily Monday thru Thursday 5 PM until 10 PM, lunch on Friday12:002:30, reopen for dinner at 5:00-11:00, Saturday 5:00-11:00. This is one of the beststeak houses in the NYC area, but expensive.

Houlihans, 1200 Harbor Boulevard, Weehawken, New Jersey, 201-863-4000.Houlihans is the place for casual fun dining with steaks, monster salads, seafood,burgers. Houlihans is open Sunday through Wednesday from 11:30 AM until 11 PM..Thursday from 11:30 AM until 1 AM.

Food Court, 1200 harbor Bouleva

hudson river guide (complete)

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