Special IN-COSMETICS 2015

SENSIA CAROTA PRCF & LUMINIA GRANATUM PRCF Plasma Rich in Cell Factors

MARILIANCE Marine neuro-soother

GENENCARE™ OSMS MI From Nature to Nurture™

SharoMax™ The ultimate “free-of” preservative line

NATURA-TEC SAPOTE OIL The next argan

MC2 & XTEND “Potion” skin care actives

SunCaps™ Advanced Encapsulated UV Filters

COMERCIAL QUIMICA MASSÓ S.A Magyarországi Fióktelepe www.cqmasso.com/fcr

1107 Budapest - Fertő u. 8 Tel: +36 433 4849 - Fax: +36 433 4848

e-mail: felekes@cqm.hu

Dear customer,

Once more, Barcelona has hosted In-Cosmetics, and once more, it has attracted enough exhibitors and visitors to convert this edition of the most important industry event in another great success.

For COMERCIAL QUIMICA MASSO, “playing at home” is always a challenge. Hosting our principals is a pleasure that requires an additional effort. Knowing that our stand is a showcase for all our customers and friends, forces us to do better. We hope to have accomplished it.

Our sensorial proposal BARCELONA IN ONE DAY! Touristic & gastronomic tour, has generated great interest among visitors and also after the show. It is an imaginary visit to the tourist attractions and the city's iconic landmarks, including five gastronomic stops to taste some typical dishes of the region, through 14 innovative cosmetic formulations. The city has been our inspiration, the most recent market trends our drivers and the highest innovative ingredients our tools preparing this Personal Care Tour.

In-Cosmetics has also given us the opportunity to launch globally the multifunctional ingredients MASSOCARE MILK 3 & MASSOCARE MILK 3 PF, designed for the formulation of skin care products. Their optimised composition allows for the easy development of creamy-gels, lotions or sprayables for all types of applications. Their inherent sinergies provide them with film-forming and moisturising properties (proven in-vivo). They provide great emolliency with a light sensation and an excellent spreadability. Moreover, they shorten development processes and simplify purchasing, storage and manufacturing logistics.

We remain at your disposal in order to discuss in depth all those interesting news as well as our principals’ launches.

Ferenc Elekes - Sales Manager

EDITORIAL

COSMETIC NEWSLETTER June 2015 Issue nr. 37

COSMETIC NEWSLETTER

SENSIA CAROTA PRCF & LUMINIA GRANATUM PRCF Plasma Rich in Cell Factors

As expert developer of plant cell cultures, PHYTURE BIOTECH launches a new range of products based on the technology of plant stem cells introducing Plasma Rich in Cell Factors (PRCF). PRCF is the company innovative approach to the phenomenon and proprietary concept of Molecular Synergy: the new way to take advantage of the real power of plants.

At In-Cosmetics 2015, PHYTURE BIOTECH have introduced two new cosmetics ingredients:

◊ SENSIA CAROTA PRCF, a pro-tolerance relief for sensitive skin.

SENSIA CAROTA PRCF (INCI: Glycerin, Daucus Carota

Sativa Root Cell Culture Lysate, Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate) goes beyond skin soothing, building up the skin tolerance by strengthing the primary natural skin protection system, leaving the it better prepared against daily environmental and chemical agressors.

SENSIA CAROTA PRCF derives from cultured and lysed

Daucus carota sativa stem cells.

Its efficacy has been proven in-vitro and in-vivo with great results. In-vitro assays include antioxidant effect on human epidermal progenitor cells against UV-induced oxidative stress, inhibitory effect on the release of CGRP neuropeptide in sensory neurones culture and induction of β-endorphin release in human epidermal progenitor cells. Sensitive skin panellists ran the in-vivo test comparing the efficacy of a 1% active cream with the corresponding placebo. The results proved that SENSIA CAROTA PRCF

protects sensitive skin from redness increase by 25% after chemical aggression. Moreover, it provides a fast recovery of the erythema after chemical damage with SLS.

SENSIA CAROTA PRCF is ideal for sensitive care products. Suggested use level: 0.5 – 2%.

◊ LUMINIA GRANATUM PRCF, a synergistic whitening approach.

LUMINIA GRANATUM PRCF (INCI: Maltodextrin, Punica Granatum Seed Cell Culture Lysate) shows highly effective

whitening activity based in a three intrinsec properties; it is a brightening perfector, texture and tone evener, radiance and glow enhancer.

LUMINIA GRANATUM PRCF derives from cultured plant stem

cells from the seeds of Punica granatum (Pomegranate).

The cosmetic efficacy of LUMINIA GRANATUM PRCF has been

proven in-vitro and in-vivo. Its antioxidant effect on human epidermal progenitor cells against UV-induced oxidative stress has been proven in-vitro. The in-vivo tests have been done at 0.3% and 1.0% active; they cover a variety of measures related to skin pigmentation and tone:

results show a more intense whitening effect on dark spots than at the skin hue, therefore skin is more even and uniform

brightening and whitening effect observed at 87% of the volunteers, with a 3.5% increase in brightness

spot whitening effect observed at 100% of the volunteers, with 31% decrease in melanin index (ITA) and 5.4% increase in skin luminosity

smoothing effect observed at 80% of the volunteers (crow’s feet wrinkles), with 10.8% improvement in skin roughness

LUMINIA GRANATUM PRCF is ideal for all types of brightening

and lightening preparations. Suggested use level: 0.3 – 1%.

COSMETIC NEWSLETTER

MARILIANCE Marine neuro-soother

Some studies have recently shown that reduction of pain sensation enables to extend lifetime. Soliance marine biotechnology experts have extracted the essence of the red microalgae Rhodosorus Marinus to offer MARILIANCE (INCI: Water, Propanediol, Rhodosorus Marinus extract), a powerful neuro-soothing active.

In-vitro tests have proven that MARILIANCE limits the production of inflammation and neuro-inflammation mediators: ◊ TRPV 1, the pain receptor involved in the cutaneous sensitivity ◊ NGF overexpressed in case of inflammation, it leads to the increase of TRPV 1 ◊ IL-1α, which plays a key role in regulation of the inflammatory response.

Soliance have tested this new active in-vivo on 46 volunteers. The results have shown that MARILIANCE reduces significantly skin sensitivity within 14 days and up to 89% in 28 days.

MARILIANCE is the first active ingredient able to reduce neuro-inflammation and enhance skin longevity. Colorless liquid, it can be added from 1% - 3% into soothing, well-being, neuro-cosmetic formulas for a long-lasting skin comfort.

NATURA-TEC SAPOTE OIL The next argan

Natura-Tec launched NATURA-TEC SAPOTE OIL (INCI: Pouteria Sapota Seed Butter). This bioactive ingredient, sourced from the company’s plant in Republica Dominicana, is extracted from the fruit of a tropical tree, Pouteria sapota, of the same plant family of argan.

NATURA-TEC SAPOTE OIL is an original oil due to a unique composition characterized by its high and specific unsaponifiable fraction with also an important level of triterpenic alcohols.

It has protective properties and is ideal to improve skin tolerance. It acts on the wound and has disinfection properties, but also, plays a protective and restorative role against UV. In hair care, NATURA-TEC SAPOTE OIL is a genuine care for dry, curly or ethnic hair. In addition, it stimulates hair growth and acts on slowing hair loss caused by seborrheic dermatitis; the scalp is soothed and nourished, and the hair brighter and smoother. Its subtle almond odour wonderfully complements hair care, conditioners and balms.

NATURA-TEC SAPOTE OIL finds applications in a variety of personal care products. In skin care, it is a very interesting ingredient of preparations targeting damaged and aged skin, after-sun products, moisturizing formulations and nourishing creams. In the hair care arena, it is recommended for hair fall protection treatments and irritated scalp care, as well as conditioning and nourishing balms and waxes.

GENENCARE™ OSMS MI From Nature to Nurture™

GENENCARE™ is a growing family of natural active ingredients, identified and sourced from sugar beet by DuPont. It is a product line comprised of natural Osmolytes for skin, hair and colour cosmetic applications. Known by their water retention and cell protection properties, the range includes GENENCARE™ OSMS BA (INCI: Betaine) and GENENCARE™ OSMS MI (INCI: Myo-Inositol).

Inositol is an isomer of glucose. Out of the nine existing stereoisomers, Myo-inositol, GENENCARE™ OSMS MI, is the most important one. That natural occurring osmolyte is found in many living organisms (animals, plants). It is a white odorless crystalline powder. In personal care products it behaves as moisturizer, sebum control agent, anti-oxidant and foam booster.

GENENCARE™ range of all-natural ingredients not only provide an intense and rapid boost of moisturization and long-lasting effective skin protection, but also enhance the sensory experience of your personal care products.

SharoMax™ The ultimate “free-of” preservative line

Sharon Laboratories launched a line of “free-of” preservative systems that meets the strongest market needs: SharoMax™

liquid blends of Phenyl propanol and Organic Acids.

This range of products helps formulators designing safe products with very interesting free-from claims, as they do not contain parabens, formaldehyde, CIT / MIT, halogens or phenoxyethanol.

At this moment, there are two products available: ◊ SharoMax™ 170 (INCI: 3-Phenyl 1-Propanol,

Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Sodium Lauryl Lactylate, Propylene Glycol).

◊ SharoMax™ 171 (INCI: 3-Phenyl 1-Propanol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Lactic Acid, Lauryl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol).

Both can be incorporated to formulations with pH up to 5.5. Compatible with most common cosmetic ingredients, they are suitable for leave-on & rinse-off products, including wet wipes. The recommended dosage is 0.8% - 1.2%.

COSMETIC NEWSLETTER

MC2 & XTEND “Potion” skin care actives

Sinerga have introduced new in actives under the innovative “potion concept”. Those potions are active ingredients that contain a well-balanced combination of botanical extracts with specific cosmetic properties and a skin permeation enhancer. The result: unrivalled effective products.

The permeation enhancer is tetrahydropiperine (THP), a stabilized derivative of the alkaloid piperine that enhances the skin natural ability to absorb nutrients. That effect has been proven in-vitro.

The first two ingredients launched by Sinerga under this concept are:

◊ MC2 The skin bio revitaliser, an active that counterbalances daily energy drops by waking up and empowering cellular metabolism.

MC2 (INCI: Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Tetrahydropiperine, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Aqua, Euterpe Oleracea

Fruit Extract) combines ginseng saponins and acai polyphenols, known by their tonic and antioxidant properties.

MC2 has been submitted to in-vitro and in-vivo efficacy testing.

• In-vitro tests have measured the cellular metabolism increase of human keratinocyte cell lines, with excellent results both in 4 hours and in 24 hours

• In-vivo tests have focussed on the effects of MC2 on the skin, testing a cream with 5% active against the

corresponding placebo:

→ MC2 is able to perform a statistically significant increase in skin hydration after 2 and 4 weeks of

treatment, leading up to a +28% improvement in hydration in comparison to placebo

→ A statistically significant decrease in skin extensibility was evidenced after 2 and 4 weeks of treatment

→ A statistically significant increase in skin elasticity was evidenced after 2 and 4 weeks of treatment. At 4 weeks, the improvement was almost doubled

→ After 4 weeks of treatment, the luminance parameter is 3 times higher using the active cream

→ After 4 weeks of treatment, 80% of the volunteers have declared to be willing to use again the product

Based on those tests, it is clear introducing MC2 in skin care products will allow for claims such as skin firmness

defender, skin radiance improvement or skin energy boost among others. It is ideal for skin revitalizing, “urban proof” products.

Recommended dose: 2 - 5%.

◊ XTEND The skin rescuer, an active for skin cells and cutaneous architecture protection and recovery.

XTEND (INCI: Glycerin, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Alcohol Denat., Tetrahydropiperine, Uncaria Tomentosa

Extract) combines kuzu isoflavonoids and cat’s claw oxindole alkaloids and quinic acids, known by their anti-glycation potential, collagen renewal and anti-inflammatory and protective properties.

The efficacy testing run with XTEND include:

• In-vitro citoprotective activity test on human keratinocyte cell line. The results prove the excellent protection against oxidation provided by that ingredient

• In-vivo tests to demonstrate the benefits that XTEND provides to the skin, based on the comparison of a

cream with 5% active with the placebo:

→ XTEND is able to perform a statistically significant increase in skin hydration after 2 and 4 weeks of treatment. XTEND activity leads up to a +25% improvement in comparison to placebo

→ A statistically significant increase in skin density was evidenced after 2 and 4 weeks of treatment in comparison to placebo. At 4 weeks, the improvement was doubled

→ A statistically significant decrease in skin roughness was evidenced after 4 weeks of treatment in comparison to placebo

→ After 4 weeks, XTEND is able to visibly improve wrinkles appearance

→ Skin treated with 5% XTEND showed an improvement of the sub epidermal low-echogenic band related to

skin re-densification

→ After 4 weeks of treatment, 63% of the volunteers have declared to be willing to use again the product

XTEND allows for skin care products claims such as will allow for claims such as skin relief promoter, youth preserver or extracellular matrix fixer among others.

Recommended dose: 2 - 5%.

COSMETIC NEWSLETTER

SunCaps™ Advanced Encapsulated UV Filters

Tagra, specialists on development and manufacturing of proprietary innovative high performance encapsulated ingredients, have launched a new generation of encapsulated UV filters: SunCaps™.

Tagra’s unique patented microencapsulation technology enables the manufacturing of unbreakable, transparent micron size microcapsules of organic and inorganic UV filters. SunCaps™ help overcoming sunscreen formulation barriers, improving efficacy and reducing potential toxicity.

The benefits that SunCaps™ over traditional UV filters include handling and formulating aspects (powder ingredients, excellent sensory profile, formulation flexibility, no crystallization, no incompatibilities), stability issues (enhanced UV filter’s chemical and photo stabilities), actual UV protection (improve UV protection profile of existing sunscreen, enable new sunscreens combinations) and safety concerns (prevent potential skin penetration and direct contact of the UV filter with skin).

The products currently available within the SunCaps™ range are:

AvoCap™, Avobenzone 60% and Octocrylene 15%

OmcCap™, Octyl Methoxycinnamate 60%

OxyCap™, Oxybenzone 47% and Octocrylene 20%.

HomCap™, Homosalate 60%

OctiCap™, Octisalate 60%

ZinoCap™, ZnO 70%

TitanCap™, TiO2 70%

Tagra have run a series of assays that evidence the interest of using SunCaps™; there are still many others underway. We mention below some of the results already available as they illustrate the high potential and cosmetic interest of this range of encapsulated filters:

◊ Stability / Compatibility

OmcCap™ significantly improves Octyl Methoxycinnamate stability (x3) in the presence of 3% free Avobenzone compared to free Octyl Methoxycinnamate. AvoCap™ increases Avobenzone photostability (x6) compared to free Avobenzone.

Thanks to SunCaps™ the usual problems when using avobenzone can be easily overcome!

◊ Improved UV protection

AvoCap™ and OmcCap™ UV protection profiles were evaluated using In-Vitro SPF measurements. Those results where compared with the theoretical values that can be expected with the corresponding free concentrations of the filters: The results speak by themselves:

Can’t wait any longer to test them? Order your SunCaps™ samples today!

Theoretical values (BASF Simulator) In-vitro results

Product SPF UVA PF SPF UVA PF

AvoCap™ (final avobenzone: 3%) 4.3 6.7 7.90 ± 0.82 18.23 ± 1.73

OmcCap™ (final OMC: 3%) 5.5 1.3 8.10 ± 0.41 2.47 ± 0.22