iffti conference, november 2005, tokyo sizing and labelling dr. alistair knox nottingham trent...
TRANSCRIPT
IFFTI Conference, November 2005, Tokyo
SIZING and LABELLING
Dr. Alistair Knox
Nottingham Trent University
School of Art & Design
2Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Overview: sizing & labelling
• background to size – shape issues
• NTU research
• European initiatives
• proposal for a global scheme
3Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Context
[from a SizeUK press release]
•designers, pattern-cutters, graders need to know customers’ sizes and shapes•people are still getting bigger – on average about 0.4 kg per year (ref. UK Health Survey 1998)
5Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
NTU size/shape research
• market research for many retailers, brands: 2D/3D + size charts
• 16 surveys over 10 years
• SizeUK – bodyscanner UK survey – with LCF, ULC + retail consortium
• E-Tailor (EU)– Intelligent pattern alteration– 3D body shape on smartcard– national size survey white paper
• National Textile Center (USA) – joint research on shape analysis
• links with NTU teaching
• 3D body scanning for plastic surgery evaluation
Smart-card system for mass customisation
7Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
body size & shape
•normal = large range of heights, girths, body types
•socio-economic plus regional & national / ethnic variations
•somatotype trends
8Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
size labelling schemes
S M L XL XXL …
or
10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 …
or
0 1 2 3 4 ….
or … what?
9Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Table 1 Womenswear sizing [based on Winks (1997), table A4]
Country SIZE (typical UK average)
AustraliaBulgariaCanadaCzech RepublicDenmarkHollandHungaryIranIrelandIsraelJapanNew ZealandPolandSpainSwedenSwitzerlandUKUSARussia
148132
3AA454034
164/80/94 or N90381240
92/9914
164/92/96(46+2)/L
C40401412
164/92/96
International complexity & confusion
UK and Europe: sizing co-operation
08 December 1998 - Neckermann, Frankfurt
30 June 1999 - Otto, Hamburg
European Size Comparison & Letter Code Belgium France Germany Greece Ireland Netherland Spain Sweden Switzerland UK
26 January 2000 - AEDT - C&A - M&S, Brussels
05 July 2000 - Research Institute, Hohenstein
05 December 2000 - Freemans, London
26 June 2001 - H & M, Stockholm
24 January 2002 - Puma, Herzogenaurach
18 September 2003 - Otto, Hamburg
11Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
CEN proposal- aim to improve international standards
• National standards, e.g. BS3666; new standard BS EN 13402
• European standards: CEN13402– technical committee TC248– drafts for definitions, measuring standards, sizing
• ISO standards
12Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Aims
based on standard definitions and body measurement procedures [EN 13402]
logical system using the minimum number of digits
one code system for most clothing products
easy to understand for the consumer
to be implemented Europe-wide
13Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
CEN Proposal
3 digit specification code for buying, computer processing, consumer ordering
each digit is a code for• primary dimension [girth]• secondary dimension [e.g. 1(narrow hip) .. 5(wide)]• height indicator [e.g. 1(short) …. 9 (tall)]
code can be supplemented on a size label by the prime dimension in cms (for communication) and a pictogram
14Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
code structure - women
Prime Dimension (PD) code number plus subsidiary girth and height code numbers
Bust or Waist
first digit(PD)
Hip
second digit
Height
third digit
+
+
BASIC STRUCTURE OFSIZE INDICATION (women)
15Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Building up the CEN code
Bust 80 84 88 92 96
code 2 3 4 5 6
Hip very narrow average very wide
narrow wide
code 1 2 3 4 5
Height 160 164 168 172 176
code 2 3 4 5 6
412 423 434 445 456final code
16Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Size indication 3 digits Women main (outer- and underwear excluding overcoats, knits, blouses, vest, swimwear and bodies, but including corsetry lower body)old size 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58bust (PD) 76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122 128 134 140
code 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 7orwaist (PD) 60 64 68 72 76 80 84 88 94 100 106 112 118 124
code 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 7
hip (SD) 76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 108 112 117 122 127 132 137 142extra choice: 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 4 50,1,3,4 or 5,6,8,9 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 35 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1
height (SD) 156 160 164 168 172 176 180 184 188extra choice: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 91,2,3,5,6,7,8,9
new size 124 174 224 274 324 374 424 474 524 574 624 674 724 774
old size 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
18Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Perceived difficulties with CEN scheme
complex and potentially confusing, e.g. current size 48 could become = 934, and 50 = 184
will need 4 digit code for men over 2 metres
children’s tops and bottoms will be different codes
does not take advantage of the prevalence of the most common combinations of bust, waist, hip for simplicity
19Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
‘German’ counter-proposal
1st digit – Prime dimension [PD], 8 cm interval
e.g. bust 76 – 152 cm
waist 60 - 136
code digit 1 - 8
2nd digit – secondary girth dimension, 5 options [std + 2 up, 2 down]
e.g. hips 0 – 4 [std 2] or alternate PD band 5 – 9 [std 7]; waist – chest drop for men in 8cms
code digit 2 or 7 for standard, higher digit for wider, lower for narrower
3rd digit – height – 4 cm intervals
e.g. women 156 = 1 to 188cm = 9
men 0–9 = 160 –196cm
code digit 0 – 9 for body height band
20Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Alternative – 2 digit half-girth plus height/shape letter
HEIGHT
GIRTH
very short
A,F,K,P,U
short
B,G,L,Q,V
regular
C,H,M,R,W
tall
D,I,N,S,X
very tall
E,K,O,T,Y
Sporty
A,B,C,D,E50A 50B 50C 50D 50E
Regular
F,G,H,I,J50F 50G 50H 50I 50K
Sturdy
K,L,M,N,O50K 50L 50M 50N 50O
Corpulent
P.Q.R.S.T50P 50Q 50R 50S 50T
Fully rotund
U,V,W,X,Y50U 50V 50W 50X 50Y
[Otto Versand et al.]
21Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
None of these proposals gained wide acceptance by commercial representatives
Need for a simplified global scheme
“more research needed”
22Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Market research for Designers, Buyers and Merchandisers
• what size are our customers?
• what shape?
• what is “good fit” for our products?
- ANSWERS FROM SURVEYS AND ANALYSIS
23Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
1600
1800
2000
1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59 61 63 65 67 69 71 73 75 77 79
Height (inches)
Fre
qu
ency
HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION- narrow distribution: 1-3 size variants enough- almost ‘normal’: about as many tall as short
24Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
1600
1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59
Bust girth (inches)
Fre
qu
ency
GIRTH DISTRIBUTION- broad spread : needs 10+ size options- asymmetric : long ‘tail’ for bigger sizes
25Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Market research for designers, Buyers and merchandisers
• what size are our customers?
• what shape?
• what is “good fit” for our products?
- ANSWERS FROM SURVEYS AND ANALYSIS
• how many size / shape / height options is it economical to offer?
• is there a simple, universal labelling scheme which communicates the offer options?
26Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
little correlation between height & girth
Figure 6: Height v Bust for ‘size 12’
70
75
80
85
90
95
100
105
110
150 155 160 165 170 175 180 185
height [cm]
bu
st
28Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
commercial solutions for ready-to-wear
•Heights– often 1 standard is enough in a market– sometimes short/petite & tall/long options – there will always be a few exceptions
•Girths– often 5 girth variations cover the bulk of the market– with 4 or 5 cm increments, 10-15 sizes may be needed for complete
coverage
•Shape– mannequins & block patterns will need adjusting from time to time– no two people are identical; electronic 3D averaging can give good
standards for general fit purposes
NTU body shape averaging
29Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Options / issues for any proposed new standard
•simple versus complex code– should be meaningful to customers and suppliers: simpler the better
• ‘meaningless’ size label code? [e.g. “14”]– could be redefined as required (as now), but non-standard confusion
•Actual girth: metric measurements used globally– “just” some Anglo-Saxons may need to adjust!
•Dual labelling; conversion tables– a new system can run in parallel with any existing
•Pictogram: visual communication including other key measurements for easy understanding
30Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Labelling proposal
- use prime customer measurement
MEN WOMEN
tops
bottoms
chest
waist
bust
hips
31Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
UK Size (approx)
Bust girth –
cm (in)
New standard
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
26
28
80 (31.5)
84 (33.1)
88 (34.6)
92 (36.4)
96 (37.8)
100 (39.4)
104 (40.9)
108 (42.5)
112 (44.1)
116 (45.7)
120 (47.2)
124 (48.8)
128 (50.4)
132 (52.0)
80
84
88
92
96
100
104
108
112
116
120
124
128
132
Girth example(women’s tops)
–actual metric measurement (cms)
32Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Length – code letter for height / leg length
CODE Men
Ht leg
cms
Women
Ht leg
cms
English
X
L
M
S
P
192
186
180
174
168
84
80
76
72
68
176
170
164
158
152
80
76
72
68
64
Extra long
Long
Medium
Short
Petite
33Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Trouser example with ISO pictogramvisual communication: diagram with garment’s key dimensions
Size 96L
[was 38 long]
Size 124X
[was 18 extra tall]
women men
34Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Other implications
• Unisex possibility
• Customer resistance to change– education– industry consensus– phase in over time
• reduces vanity sizing scope
• no ‘shape’ categories – fully flexible
• customers likely to know their own key dimensions– should help reduce returns (especially mail-order)– may help mass customisation
35Knox/IFFTI Nov2005
Conclusion
• Simple proposal, easily adaptable
• could suit most garment types
• combination of standard metric prime measurement, almost universal height/length code letter
• visual supplement = pictogram with other measurements, garment-dependent
Alistair Knox
Size 104L
[was 42 long]
60
84
104