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23rd Congress

Orlando 200.4

23rd IFSCC CongressOrlando 2004

TABLE OF CONTENTSPodium Proceedings

Page

1. A Novel Mechanism of UVA-Induced

Pigmentation Outside the Melanocyte

Kiyoshi Sato, Shiseido Research Center.

2. The Effect ofN-Acetyl-Glucosamine on

Stratum Corneum Desquamation and Water

Content in Human Skin

Thomas Mammone, Estee Lauder Companies

3. The Genome ofSkin Cells:A Central Target

for Full Protection from Oxidative Stress and

Photo-Aging

Louis Danoux, Laboratoires Serobiologiques

4. Evaluating Cellulite- Reality Redirecting the

Dream to Dispel the MythTheresa Callaghan, Hill Top Research

5. Glowing Skin: Sunscreens, Reactive Oxygen

Species and Two-Photon Fluorescence

Microscopy

Kerry Hanson, University of Illinois

6. Resolving the Conflict ofa SimultaneouslyHighly Moisturizing and Occlusive Emulsion

Film

Yuji Sakai, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc.

7. Tissue Resurfacing Visualized by

"Micro-Topological Epidermal Imaging (MTEI)"

Alan Wohlman, The Fanning Corporation

8. Skin Adaptation to Environmental Stress: A

Remarkable Example of Cellular Evolution

Daniel Maes, Estee Lauder Companies

9. A NovelApproach for Skin Moisturization

Focusing on a Natural Moisturizing Ion Pair

Noriaki Nakagawa, Kanebo Ltd.

10. Immunofluorescent Imaging ofDermal

Proteins Using Laser Scanning ConfocalMicroscopyJesse Leverett, Access Business Group L.L.C.

11. A Novel Mechanism of Cutaneous Photo-

Damage Mediated by Angiogenesis and

Inhibitory Effects ofChlorella Extract on UV-

InducedAngiogenesisKiichiro Yano, Shiseido Research Center

12.Modulation ofLangerhans Cell Migration

through MMPs and PKC Pathways: A New

Conceptfor the Management ofCutaneous

Hyper-SensitivityNathalie Piccardi, Laboratories Expanscience

13. A Novel Indicatorfor Skin Irritation and

Aging: Epidermal WaterActivity

Koji Endo, Kao Corporation

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14. Skin Functional Benefitsfrom the TargetedProtection of Cutaneous Neurons

Isabelle Imbert, Exsymol S.A.M.

15. Control ofSkin Color by Promoting

Shrinkage or Expansion ofMelanocyteDendrites

Akihiro Tada, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc.

16. Hormone Replacement TherapyMaintains Skin's Lipid Barrier

Manoj Misra, Unilever R&D

17. Defect ofthe Cuticle upon Hair BleachingTreatment: Advanced Hair Damage Model

Based on Oxidation ofS100A3 Protein

Kenji Kizawa, Kanebo Ltd.

18. The Dynamic Response ofHuman Skin to

Repeated Sun ExposureLieve Declercq, Estee Lauder BCC

19. A New Whitening Strategy: Zinc (II) -

Glycine Complex Regulates Melanin Synthesis

Though Induction ofMetallothioneinYuri Okano, Nikkol Group

20. Simultaneous Enhancement of Cosmetic

Function and Feel via Molecular Investigation

of Stickiness

Hiroki Kudoh, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc.

21. Taking the Mystery Out ofTexture: Texture

ProfileAnalysis & Sensory Evaluations ofCosmetic Creams

Susan J. Hoshaw, Dow Corning Corporation

22. Tracking Intersensory Properties of Cosmetic

Products via Psycho-PhysiologicalAssessment

Wolf Eisfeld, Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG

23. African-American Hair Properties and Its

Modification by Relaxers: An Investigation fromthe Macroscopic to the Nanoscopic Level

Philippe Barbarat, L'Oreal Recherche

24. Acoustic & Frictional Measurements: A New

Device to Assess In Vivo the Skin "Sweetness"-

Applications to Skin Ageing, Ethnic Hair &

Cosmetic Treatments

Frederic Flament, Ecole Centrale De Lyon

25. PearlescenceAnalysis: Relating the Visual

Appearance ofShine toAnalytical Methods

Seren Frantz, Rhodia

26. New Developments in Cosmetic Preference58

, Mapping Studies: Closing the Gap Between

Consumers and Sensory Analytical Expertise

MethodologyJean-Marc Sieffermann, ENSIA

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23rd IFSCC CongressOrlando 2004

TABLE OF CONTENTSPodium Proceedings

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27. Linking Sensory & Rheology Characteristics: 129

A First Step to Understand the Influence of

Emulsion Structure on Sensory Characteristics

Vincent A. L. Wortel, Uniqema

28. Emotional & Psychophysiological Effects 135

ofa Fragrance in Men's Skin Care

Anne Abriat, Lancome International

29. Membrane Structured Solid Nanoparticles - 139

A Novel Nano-Technology to DeliverActives in

Cosmetics

Gerd H. Dahms, IFAC GmbH & Co KG

30. Determination ofNail Plate Lipids 145

Composition and Effects ofSolvents on LipidRemoval and Water Absorption

Toshiyuki Hiroshima, Asanuma Corporation

31. Thermodynamic Assessment of the 150

Performance ofPolymer-Based Perfume

Delivery SystemsDaniel Bcnczedi, Firmenich SA

32. Enhanced Pigment Lightening Effects of 153

N-Glycosylation Inhibitors by the CHEMS

Incorporated Nano-Carrier

Ju Young Park, Amore Pacific R&D Center

33. Novel Nanogelsfor Encapsulation and Slow 157

Release of Personal Care Actives

P. Somasundaran, Columbia University

34. Mechanisms of Polymer Enhanced 162

DepositionRhonda Tsotsoros, Ciba Specialty Chemicals

Corporation

35. Barrier Sphingoid Bases and Barrier 167

Ceramides Induce Differentiation in Basal

KerantinocytesPeter Lersch, Degussa AG

36. Effect ofAqueous Phase Composition on the 173

Stability ofa Silica-Stabilized W/O Emulsion

Song-E Kim, LG Household & Healthcare

37. Penetration of Cosmetic Compounds into 178

Hair Fibers using TOF-SIMS

Sidney B. Hornby, Neutrogena Corporation

38. Effect ofHydrophobic Modification on the 182

Dynamic Rheological Properties ofVinyl

Pyrrolidone/Dimethylaminopropyl

Methacrylamide Copolymer

Janusz Jachowicz, ISP

39. Use ofAssociating Polymers as Multi- 188

Functional Thickeners: Studies of their

Structure in Aqueous Solutions via NMR, QELS,Fluorescence and Rheology Measurements

Katsunori Yoshida, Shiseido Research Center

40. Ion Beam Analysis- A New and Efficient Tool For

Qualitative and Quantitative Determination ofIon

Concentrations in the Epidermis: Measurements at

different stages ofEpidermalDifferentiationAlain Mavon, Institut De Recherche Pierre Fabre

41. The Effect ofSurfactants on Skin as

Measured by Squamometry:A Sensitive Way to

Observe Sub-Clinical Irritant Dermatitis

Boyce M. Morrison, Jr., Colgate-Palmolive Co.

42. Preservation ofSilicone-in-Water EmulsionsSteve Schnittger, Estee Lauder Companies

43. N-Palmityl-4-Hydroxy-L-Proline PalmitylEster:A Ceramide Analogue that Provides

Efficient Skin Barrier Repair

Gabriele Viclhaber, SYMRISE GmbH & Co. KG

44. Hair and Shine: The Many Ways ofHair to

Generate Luster Phenomena andExperimemial ApproachesGerhard Sendelbach, Wella AG

45. Continuous Three-Dimensional Examination

of Interior Hair Structure

Ken-Ichi Tanaka, Kose Corporation

46. Improving Resistance ofthe Skin Barrier to

UV Damage through Oral SupplementationLloyd Hamilton, The Boots Company PLC

47. Cosmetic Products- Stability StudyEmiro Khury, Sanitary National Agency

48. Non-Destructive Rheological Study ofWax/Oil Gels andApplication in DevelopingHigh-Performance LipsticksYoichi Mizutori, Kose Corporation

49. Super Dispersible Pigment Treatmentfor

Applications in Multimedia

Yun Shao, Kobo Products, Inc.

50. Organic Color (Anti-Bleeding) Treated

Pearl Pigments

Takumi Tanaka, Daito Kasei Kogyo Company, Ltd.

51. Compatibility Testing of Colored Cosmetics -

A New Tool ofObjective Testing Near-Infrared-

Remission-Spectroscopy (NIR-RS)

Mathias Rohr, Institut Dr. Schrader - Creachern

GmbH

52. Harnessing the Mystery ofRed Light to

Develop More Effective Makeup Products

Yukari Sakazaki, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc.

53. Color Simulation MethodforAccurate

Prediction ofResulting Dyed Hair Color

Toshiyuki Takahashi, Kose Corporation

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23rd IFSCC CongressOrlando 2004

TABLE OF CONTENTSPodium Proceedings

Page Page

54. Development of a Novel Oxidative Hair 269

Color, Based on Ultimate Optimized Ratio of

Cationic Surfactant-HigherAlcohol System,which Provides Brilliant Bleach Effect and

Excellent Feel PropertiesTakahiro Yamashita, Shiseido Research Center

55. In-Vitro Assessment ofthe Influence of 274

Cosmetics with Effect Pigments on Appearance

Gabriel Uzunian, Engelhard Corporation

56. The Dimple Phenomenon: Three 279

Dimensional (3D) Quantitation ofCellulite and

Relationship to PerceptualAssessment

Lola K. Smalls, University of Cincinnati

57. Unveiling the Molecular Basis ofIntrinsic 284

Skin AgingOlafHoltkotter, Henkel KGaA

58. Seeing is Believing - The Science Behind 289

Human Perception

Moitreyee Sinlia, GE Global Research Center

59. A Possible New Mechanism ofAction for 296

Skin WhiteningAgents: Binding to the

PeroxisomalProliferatorActivated Receptor

J. W. Wiechers, Uniqema Skin R&D

60. Application ofImage Processing Technique 302

for Facial Gloss Evaluation

Makoto Fujii, Kose Corporation

61. Optical Properties ofSkin Gloss and 307

Development of "Mizumizushii"-Looking

Makeup Foundation

Hirochika Nishimura, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc.

62. Role ofl8MEA on the Nanotribology of 312

The Hair SurfaceGustavo S. Luengo, L'Oreal Recherche

63. Isolation ofBacterial Enzyme Releasing 318

Axillary Malodor and its Use as a Screening

Targetfor Novel Deodorant Formulations

Andreas Natsch, Givaudan Schweizag AG

All efforts were made to ensure the highest quality of reproduction. However, some photographs or graphics in this

volume may have suffered loss of definition. In some cases this is due to originals being supplied in color. In other

cases it is due to the printing process and/or the limitations of certain graphic file formats.

All rights reserved. No part of the content of this book may be reproduced without the written permission of the Society

of Cosmetic Chemists.

64. Odor Reduction Properties ofMetal Silicates

and theirApplication in Axilla Odor Control

Michael C. Withiam, J.M. Huber Corporation

65. Development ofa Strategy to Protect Human

Skinfrom UVR — Induced Immune Suppression

Mary S. Matsui, The Clinique Laboratories

66. Claim Identification for CosmeticActive

Ingredients using DNA-Chip Technology

Mike Farwick, Degussa AG

67. Keratinocytes Act as a Source ofReactive

Oxygen Species by Transferring HydrogenPeroxide to MelanocytesEdward Pelle, Estee Lauder Companies

68. Sorption-Desorption ofWater and Organic

Vapors into Human Hair - Role ofDiffusion

Yash K. Kamath, TRI/Princeton

69. Molecular Dynamics Simulations of

18-Methyleicosanoic Acid

Roger McMullen, ISP/Seton Hall University

70. Gene Expression Profiling of the Pigmented

Spot Formation: Potential Roles ofMonocyteChemoattractant Protein — 2 in Solar Lentigines

Osamu Moro, Shiseido Research Center

71. Determination ofthe SensoryCharacteristics ofan IdealFluidFoundation

using Preference Mapping Techniques

Sandra Coronel, LVMH R&D Parfums Cosmetiques

72. Singlet Oxygen and Singlet Oxygen Quencher

Germain Puccetti, EMD Chemicals, Inc.

73. The Effect ofHydrophobically-ModifiedAmphipathic Polymers on the Emulsions

Stabilized with Self-Assembled Nanostructure

EmulsifiersRobert Lochhead, University of Southern Mississippi

TIB/UB Hannover

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©2004 THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS, NEWYORK, NY, USA

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