Ikaria IslandExplore and Experience

A Travel andWalking Guide

with maps byCharlene Caprio

& Lefteris Tsouris

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Ikaria Island: Explore and Experience

A Travel and Walking Guide with maps by Charlene Caprio and Lefteris Tsouris

First Edition

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this Book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any

means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and/or recording, or by any information

storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing, by the publisher with

consent by both authors, or for a reviewer, who may quote brief passages in a review. Requests for

permission should be addressed to: contact@ikariaguidebook.com.

© Wooden Hull Press

© Peter Wan (Photographs indicated)

Authors: Charlene Caprio and Lefteris Tsouris

Editors: Peter Wan, Selene Hellström, Katherine Tsantiris

Cover Photograph by Peter Wan

Photographs by: Peter Wan, Charlene Caprio and Lefteris Tsouris

(See list of photos by photographer on page 97)

Published by Wooden Hull Press 2015

Printed in Greece

ISBN 978-0-692-36483-3

Wooden Hull Press

130 Winchester Ave, 10

New Haven, CT 06511

United States of America

info@woodenhullpress.com

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Updates, Feedback and Inquiries

Although the authors walked the routes highlighted in this Guide in the summer of 2014, Ikaria’s landscape is not constant. Paths may alter from landslides and other conditions, and markers and signs may shift. Also, as we are only human, there may be some errors in this Guide. Please help keep this Guide updated and accurate. Record errors, notable details and route changes and send them to us. If you own a GPS device or a smartphone with GPS tracking, please send us the data information. Kindly address all correspondence to:contact@ikariaguidebook.com.

Safety

Safety is an important concern for all outdoor activities and must always be placed �rst. We cannot alert you to every hazard or anticipate the limitations of every reader. The descriptions of roads, routes and other matters in this Guide are not an indication that a particular road, footpath or route will be safe for you. When you follow information and routes suggested in this Guide, you assume responsibility for your own safety. Keep informed on weather conditions at all times, which may change rapidly, and stay alert to your own body and the conditions of the path or road, your water and food supply, the time of day and your general surroundings. Use common sense and always assume that you need to consume more water and food when walking, hiking or engaging in any other physical activity. Check with your physician before exploring the routes or other activitiessuggested in this Guide.

The authors do not warrant that the data or information in this Guide, or the data or information of third party links or resources referenced in this Guide, will be accurate and/or error-free. We do not assume responsibility for any errors, mistakes, mishaps or misinterpretations as well as forthe accuracy, correctness, topicality or quality of the information provided.

1: Livadi beach on a still day

2: A sunny day at the port of Evdilos

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3: Old windmill near the village of Amalou 4: Entrance to Koskinas Castle ruins

5: Ikaria's rich natural environment, observed by one of its grazers

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Ikaria

Samos

Athens

Naxos

Paros

Kos

Fournoi

Andros

Evoia

Tinos

Mykonos

Kea

Chios

Lesvos

Limnos

Santorini

Milos

Amorgos

Astypalaia

Izmir

0 50 100 Kilometers

T U R K E Y

Turkey

Bulgaria

Greece

F.Y.R.O.M.

Albania

A E GE A

N S

EA

Ikaria Location in the Aegean Sea

Table of Contents

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10PART I: BRIEF HISTORY OF IKARIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 From Myth to Reality: Do not �y too close to the Sun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 History up to the Present . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17PART II: PLANNING YOUR VISIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 When to Visit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Getting to Ikaria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 What to Bring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 How to Get Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Visas and Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Spotlight: The Ikarian Road Network Paradox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31PART III: IKARIAN LIFE, FOOD AND FUN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 The Ikarian Way . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Ikarian Food . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Local Ikarian Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Religion, Churches and Monasteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Spotlight: Ikaria’s Festivals (Panigiria) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Spotlight: Ikaria’s Thermal Hot Springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43PART IV: IKARIA’S NATURAL ENVIRONMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Ecosystems and Microclimates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Ikaria’s Geology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Ikaria’s Flora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Ikaria’s Fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Life in the Seas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 The Ikarian Sky. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Environmental Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50PART V: IKARIA’S FOOTPATHS - 10 SELECTED ROUTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Preparing for the Walks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Hikers’ Code of Ethics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Maps Legend and Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 THE ROUTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 1. Chalari River Canyon (Christos - Nas) Walk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 2. The Spanaioi Watermill Walk with additional Walk to a Reservoir and Monastery of Mounte . . . . . . 63 3. Pezi, Ryaka Waterfall and Selini Pond Walk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 4. Ranti Forest and Cave Walk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 5. Koskinas Castle and Mt. Atheras Cli� Walk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 6. Mt. Atheras Ridgeline Hike (reaching Ikaria’s highest peak) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 7. Ikaria’s Western Edge, Remote Seaside Villages and “Kavo Papas” Lighthouse Walk . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 8. Ikaria’s Eastern Edge - Drakano Tower, Agios Georgios, and the WWII Bunker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 9. Ikaria’s Eastern Edge - Agia Kyriaki Hot Spring / Iero Beach. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 10. Ksylosyrtis (Papas) Watermill and Lefkada Hot Spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93

About this Guide

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INTRODUCTION

Ikaria Island, also spelled ‘Icaria’ (Gr.: Iκαρία), located in Greece’s Eastern Aegean region, is a world of its own. Craggy mountains reach across its elongated spine, giving Ikaria the shape of a stretched out peanut. This relatively small island boasts a complex topography of high ridgelines, steep slopes, plateaus, valleys, waterfalls,canyons, rivers, ponds, sandy and rocky beaches and other natural wonders. But Ikaria has remained largely a secret. Not much can be descried when gazing up from Ikaria’s shores. For centuries Ikaria’s population lived deep in the moun-tains, carving out homes in scattered hamlets, often to hide from pirates and other invaders. As centuries progressed, Ikaria stayed relatively isolated due to its lack ofnatural harbors and rugged terrain. In turn, Ikaria’s natural environment flourished with relatively little interference. Today, Ikaria is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna (including some rare and endangered species), spreading over a dramatic landscape of microclimates. Hot and sunny summers give way to cold, rainy winters, supporting plush vegetation and rich seasonal varieties. Many flowers (orchids, larkspurs, cyclamen, oleanders, bell flowers, etc.) grow wild on the island. Ikaria’s local population, depending largely on subsistence farming, communal ties and stout individualism, has adapted to theisland’s conditions with pride. It isn’t a surprise that Ikaria’s secrets are now being discovered. Locals celebrate their 100th birthday more frequently than in most places in the world, and people want to know why. Ikaria indeed has secrets on how to live long with a simplicity that surmounts any wealth. However, they are still secrets only because not manypeople experience Ikaria the way that Ikarians do. We believe that the best way to understand Ikaria is by exploring the island’s footpaths, called ‘monopatia’ (Gr.: μονοπάτια). Spanning over 150km in a configuration akin to a giant spider web over the island, Ikaria’s footpaths evolved over hundreds of years. Many of them connect remote villages with rivers, watermills, forests, mountain peaks, sea areas, more natural elements and other villages. The footpaths also reach areasinaccessible by vehicles and traverse the mountains’ inner folds. By exploring the footpaths, you will start to discover Ikaria‘s unique environment and culture. You will witness locals going about their daily lives, gathering herbs, farming, shepherding, conversing at cafes, and maybe even slaughtering a goat over a tree stump. You will smell Ikaria’s air scented with fruits, spices and flowers. You will hear kids (baby goats) hurrying through the woods, honeybees buzzing around thyme bushes and rivers flowing down valleys. You will feel Ikaria’s winds, mists and shrubs wrap around your body and the climate of dry, rocky plateaus. You may also encoun-ter abandoned villages and ‘anti-pirate’ houses. You will undoubtedly taste local food and dine alongside Ikarians.

About this Guide

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Please also be prepared for the unexpected. Ikaria’s terrain and weather are full of contradictions. Conditions can change quickly from dry to rainy, windy to still, flat to steep, and hot to cold. Mists can envelop cliffs and forests in a matter of minutes. Winds can rattle your legs. But you will probably sense an astounding harmony in all of Ikaria’s contradictions, celebrating the island’s unique, renegade spirit. In Part V of this Guide, we highlight ten recommended routes for your explora-tion. They follow footpaths and also lead to other attractions. The routes range from easy to difficult, though most routes are suitable for visitors in good walking condition. Bear in mind that Ikaria’s footpaths mark the original network of commu-nication across the island. Thus, footpaths have been used by locals throughout centuries. Nevertheless, the conditions are probably not what you are used to, no matter where you have walked before. Follow the guidance in Parts II and V of this Guide on how to prepare and what to expect while walking on Ikaria. Borrowing words from an Ikarian farmer: Ikaria is very generous; it offers its nature for exploring, clean air for breathing, trees for shade and plants for food. Ikaria gives a lot to visitors without asking much in return. Thus, in exchange for all that you will experience and learn on Ikaria, we ask from you just one thing: kindly respect Ikaria by following the Hiker’s Code of Ethics in Part V. Please be gentle to this island that has survived in its rudimentary form for thousands of years. Experi-ence Ikaria, but help keep it the special place that it is.

Sincerely,

Charlene CaprioLefteris Tsouris

Don’t be surprised if you encounter raised eyebrows when you say that you have chosen Ikaria as your destination. Greeks will want to know if you made a mistake; or, if you are as wise as the choice conveys. We believe (by seeing it happen) that what you experience on Ikaria may change the way that you think about life, nature and the world around you. A wonderful rejuvenation of life often happens topeople who take time to understand Ikaria.

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Part I

10: Old house ruins

Modernity

On July 17, 1912, Ikarians declared their independence from Ottoman rule and drove away the last Ottoman guard. However, a union with mainland Greece could not yet be realized, and so Ikaria was a sovereign state for about five months. Ikarians today know and are proud of this five-month independence period. Duringthis short time, Ikaria created its own anthem, insignia, flag and postage stamps.

Free State of Ikaria (1912) Independence Flag: The words ΕΛΕΥΘΕΡΑ ΠΟΛΙΤΕΙΑ ΙΚΑΡΙΑΣ (Free State of Ikaria) are written on a deep blue flag above a thick white cross.

During the years that followed Ikaria’s annexation into the Greek State, Ikaria suffered from what all of Greece's regions suffered from during that time: economic neglect. Greece was a state ridden by debt, usurping plots, corruption and low technological advancement. Greece in the post Ottoman years changed many regimes: royalty, republic, dictatorships. Greece suffered hardships and losses in both the World Wars. In 1946, civil war broke out in Greece. In 1967 a military junta was installed. That dictatorship ended in 1974 with the Turkish invasion of Cyprus, and a constitutional democracy (the Third Hellenic Republic) wasintroduced. During the civil war and junta years, Ikaria was a place of forced exile for anyone who stood against the regime, especially members of the Greek communist party. The famous Greek musician, Mikis Theodorakis, who scored the film, Zorba the Greek, was among Ikaria’s exiles. Meanwhile, the central Greek state, which wanted the exiles to suffer, left Ikaria primarily to its own resources. Ikaria’s exile years created new generations of Ikarians and added to the island’s isolated renegade spirit. Ikaria also developed a reputation as a “red” island (supporting Greece’s KKE party). Cut off from outside resources and practically abandoned by Athens, Ikariafurther developed its own ways of doing things. Ikaria’s local population today hovers around 8,500 inhabitants. However, the Ikarian diaspora is large and many Ikarians (and families of Ikarians) come back to Ikaria to visit. Some lament over how goats are chomping through chunks of Ikaria’s forests due to overgrazing (see Part IV). Some visit to remember the stories their parents told them of the harsh exile years. But most visitors find themselves linking arms at Ikaria’s panigiria and dancing the Ikariotiko over local food and wine, laugh-ing and feeling connected to this unique island and culture.

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Part II

17: Route signs in the Chalari Canyon

What to Bring

The Basic Stuff to Pack

• Lots of sunscreen (available on Ikaria too but expensive)• Hat and sunglasses• Insect repellent• Windbreaker and good walking shoes• Electrical adapters (for non-European travelers)• Snorkeling gear, beach towels and bathing suits

For a visit in late fall, winter and spring make sure to bring a full rainproof outfit, warm jacket, winter hat, gloves and rainproof boots.

For Walking/Hiking on Ikaria

If you plan to walk any of the routes in Part V, be weather smart and prepare to handle a wide variety of microclimates and terrains. The sun can be stronger than you think, and winds and storms can surprise you in any season. In addition to the above basic list, we compiled the following list of what to pack, in part from observing how some people have experienced fatigue or turning back earlier than theyanticipated along Ikaria’s footpaths.

• Full wind gear and breathable layers to keep the sweat away from your skin • Breathable long-sleeved shirts (to protect against sun and mosquitoes)• Breathable pants (to protect against low, thorny shrubs) • Closed hiking boots or shoes (to protect against loose rocks on footpaths) • Extra clothing (to change out of sweaty layers, etc.)• A camel hydration pack • A good hiking day pack • Flashlight and headlamp for long walks, night and cave exploration • Plenty of socks• First aid safety kit and whistle• List of Emergency Numbers (see Part V)• Mobile Device and extra batteries Most other desired provisions can be obtained in any of the major villages, such as Agios Kirykos, Faros, Evdilos, Christos and Armenistis.

Part III

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27: A plate of delicious Gemista (stu�ed tomatoes with rice and minced meat)

Ikarian Food

Ikarian food is rich by its simplicity. With much of the island terraced for small-scale gardening, vegetables are plentiful and the wine keeps flowing. Wild herbsfrom the mountains spice up the dishes.

Warning! Ikaria’s food and diet may throw you into reverse culture shock when you return home. You will crave the tastes and freshness of the fruit and vegetables,meat, fish and herbs for a long time afterward.

Grocery stores are located in almost every village, albeit without the larger varie-ties you are probably used to. Look for the fruits and vegetables following the seasons, as exotic varieties are now imported to handle tourism. Ask if your selec-tion is from Ikaria (“Is it from here?” Gr.: Είναι από εδώ? Pron.: 'Eí-nai apóe-dó?'). Ikaria’s stores can open and close at unpredictable times. In general, expect stores to open early, close mid-day and re-open in the evening. The island’s largestgrocery store, Carrefour, is located on the road between Evdilos and Armenistis.

Favorites Dishes

Try some of the following: • Ikaria’s vegetable stew ‘soufiko’ (Gr.: σουφικό)• Beetroots (cooked, served with garlic and vinegar) ‘patzaria’ (Gr.: πατζάρια)• Stuffed tomatoes ‘gemista’ (Gr.: γεμιστά)• Greek salad 'horiatiki' (Gr.: χωριάτικη) • A green called ‘horta’ (Gr.: χόρτα) • Greek yogurt-based dip ‘tzatziki’ (Gr.: τζατζίκι) • Stuffed zucchini balls ‘gemista kolokythakia’ (Gr.: γεμιστά κολοκυθάκια) • French fries (fried in olive oil) ‘patates’ (Gr.: πατάτες)• Greek fried cheese ‘saganaki’ (Gr.: σαγανάκι)

PART IV: IKARIA’S NATURAL ENVIRONMENT

Ikaria’s natural environment is being praised internationally for good reason. This relatively small island is home to an incredible amount of biodiversity and microcli-mates, rare and endangered species, and astounding topography. A complete overview of Ikaria’s natural environment is beyond our short Guide. However, the information below will help guide you, pointing out important species to take noteof, and references to routes in Part V, as you explore Ikaria’s natural wealth.

Ecosystems and Microclimates On Ikaria you can find a variety of beaches, rocky inlets, wetlands, dunes, fresh-water ponds, rivers, canyons, slopes, forests, peaks and plateaus, ridgelines, cliffs, and other natural features. Rich variations are tucked into the folds of Ikaria’s eleva-tion changes. Craggy mountains dominate the island’s east-to-west orientation. The Mt. Atheras ridgeline (See Route 6) and Mt. Melissa at the western side togetherbend Ikaria into northern and southern halves angling down to the sea.

Quickly altering in terrain, elevation and microclimates, and further changing with the seasons, Ikaria’s environment essentially offers a lifetime course in natural discovery.

Ikaria’s anima can best be described by its weather. The Greek gods could not conjure up more capricious and crazy conditions. Differences in air temperatures (from sea level

to the ridgelines) generate fast moving clouds, thick mists and intense storms (especially in winter). The meltemi winds turn Ikaria’s seas choppy (late summer and winter) and push forward surfing waves. Rainfalls (during late fall and winter) create waterfalls, fresh water ecosystems and plush vegetation – much more than what would be expected on a Greek island. Winter storms are intense

and often take down trees, as you will see if you explore Pezi’s mountain area. (See Route 3)

By the time summer comes around, Ikaria relaxes under tranquil blue skies and an incredible abundance of sunshine. Summer visitors will experience none of the winter’s forces, though the effects can be seen in the varieties of vegetation, flowing rivers and weather beaten terrain.

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Part IV

41: Meltemi winds pushing waves toward Ikaria

Part V

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ROUTE 1: Chalari River Canyon (Christos - Nas) Walk

Route Time: 3.5-4.5hrsDistance: 6.1km Elevation Low / High: 0m / 430m Rating: Moderate Route Notes: Mostly downhill with uphill portions in �rst half of trail. For a challenging uphill hike, do this trail in reverse. Loose rocks on path; wear closed sneakers or hiking boots. Marking / Signposting: red dots, red marks, wooden signs, arrows.

The Chalari River starts high up in the mountains and flows down to Nas beach, descending about 5km. It has carved out one of the island's most important ecosys-tems. The canyon is rich in flora and fauna and changing landscapes, while a tower-ing wall of mountains encloses its western edge, enhancing the sense of solitude, depth and magnitude. Some protected species live in the canyon and migratory birds stop here too, while freshwater species inhabit the Chalari River. No visit toIkaria is complete without a Chalari canyon walk.

Start: Drive to the village of Christos from Armenistis, keeping right, past Agios Dimitrios and up to 'Christos Rachon' (Gr.:Χριστός Ραχών) as a sign informs you. Park near the center square at Christos. (Some locals refer to Christos as Rahes, and vice versa, but Rahes is the extended mountainous region all around Christos.) Along the western edge of Christos, find the sign on the right for the footpath (Gr.: Φαράγγι της Χάλαρης = Chalari Canyon) that descends between a house and a taverna. You will follow the footpath left along the back area of the village, passing dense green vegetation, stone walls, great wild flowers such as larkspurs and crocuses, and orange and plum trees. Veer right when the path forks, and then follow red arrows at the side of a house. Ascend a short staircase to a wider path connecting to a dirtroad. Turn left, up the dirt road.

In about 50m there will be a sign to follow a narrow footpath down a scratchy slope. This 100m stretch has grown wild; if you walk it, next turn right onto the dirt road bisecting the slope and walk this road for about 0.5km. You will reach a gateway marking the main trail route (keeping to the road the whole time instead of the scratchy slope will also lead you to the main trail route). The wooden gatewayat the trail entrance was toppled over by storms recently.

Pass through the trail gateway and follow the markers, traversing contour lines of the eastern mountain slope and a long stretch line with a nice wooden handrail, as well as some uphill patches until you reach a quadruple red wooden sign on a pine tree. You can follow the left branch of the trail to the Loupastra stone bridge, claims the sign. Alas, the bridge was destroyed recently by a fury of winter waters gushing down the river. From the same quadruple red sign, you can walk toward the Raxou-nia waterfalls, Proespera village, or the end point we recommend, Nas beach.

Part V

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59: A Chalari River blue dragon�y 60: A wooden multi-sign close to the footpath’s entrance

61: Ikaria has many old stone walls

62: On the way down to Nas 63: The Chalari River forms many fresh water pools

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7'0"

N

37°3

7'0"

N

37°3

6'40

"N

37°3

6'40

"N

37°3

6'20

"N

37°3

6'20

"N

37°3

6'0"

N

37°3

6'0"

N

37°3

5'40

"N

37°3

5'40

"N

37°3

5'20

"N

37°3

5'20

"N

A�anesWinery

Pro�tisElias

PourgezatoAnemomylos

RaksouniaRatsos

CHALARI

CANYON

Christos

AgiosDimitrios

Ksinta

Litani

Nasartemis

tavropolossanctuary

Nas Beach

318

501

26o04’38’’ E37o35’57’’ N

26o04’37’’ E37o36’24’’ N

0.6km0.6km

0.7km

0.5km

0.9km0.

4

1.4km

1km

Agia Marina

Scale 1:20.000

To Armenistis

0 250 500 Meters

1. CHALARI CANYON3.5-5hrs

6.1km

Good Luck in your Exploration of Ikaria!

From Charlene, Lefteris, Peter and all of Ikaria’s Goats

Please send comments and suggestions to:info@ikariaguidebook.com

Ikaria Island: Explore and ExperienceFirst Edition

$18.95Cover Photo by Peter Wan