improved steadicam for under 40 dollars%21 also boom

8/4/2019 Improved Steadicam for Under 40 Dollars%21 Also Boom

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Improved Steadicam for under 40 dollars! Also boom mic attachment!by compatta on March 16, 2006

Table of Contents

Improved Steadicam for under 40 dollars! Also boom mic attachment! ......................................................................

Intro: Improved Steadicam for under 40 dollars! Also boom mic attachment! ...............................................................

Step 1: Make the PVC vest with polystyrene insulation ...............................................................................

Step 2: Make the swivel mechanism ............................................................................................

Step 3: Making a boom mic ...................................................................................................

Step 4: Putting it all together. ..................................................................................................

Related Instructables ........................................................................................................

Comments ................................................................................................................
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Author:compatta

i am just like any other guy. i like to build stuff and make stuff (yes, that does include cooking and not neccesarily mechanical car work)

Intro: Improved Steadicam for under 40 dollars! Also boom mic attachment!Did you ever want a steadicam that perhaps actually looked and acted like the steadicam the pros use? Well, my easy steadicam design involves no cutting of metalsand the hardest things are perhaps cutting pvc and cutting wood (which in fact we all love). I tried to build one with strings, but there was no apparent souce that waseasy enough to understand with springs etc.

Benefits:

-no fabrication of metal needed-no welding-under 50 dollars (or so....i stopped counting)

With this design, its design is more similar to a steadicam in that it is not a "pogostick" that is vulnerable to moving due to a change in speed.

my design inspirations:-http://www.dvinfo.net/articles/camsupport/dvsportster1.php(this had the simplicity of design that i liked)-http://www.abracadabravideos.com/DIY/DIYpage1.htm(he had the simplicity to use pvc as the rib cage. though its hard filming when your laughing....)

Image Notes1. Just for fun...... ..doesn't he look like he is picking his nose?2. Notice my film mates look comfortable as they are looking off into the distance.........also doesn't it look comfortable to use?

Step 1:Make the PVC vest with polystyrene insulationWell, i actually built a design that this guy on another website (http: //www.abracadabravideos.com/DIY/DIYpage1.htm), but the only difference is that i put somepolystyrene foam insulation (the insulation is usually for your heater but i got a 6 ft lenght for 2 dollars. its just for looks and confort) but i feel he is not that desciptive whis explanation. Anyways i too have the same principal (okay, i forgot to measure how big they were, but i just did a "do as it f its" approach because i had to build frompicture.)

(i too also advise you to consult f rom his picture because they are very useful)

Here are some convenient parts descriptions:

Rib cage (all pvc parts are in 3/4 inch)

1 3/4 inch pvc pipe7 1.75 inch "ingots" (parts you need to put in between parts)11 45 degree pieces2 90 degree pieces3 "T" pieces1 "cross" piece (has fittings for 4 tubes)2 "bended pieces" (can be obtained in your electrical department. should begrayish looking)1 1 inch polystyrene plumbing insulation (optional, but just for looks andcomfort)1 cover cap (it should screw in without an ingot)1 premixed pvc cement

estimate: ~20 dollars(if that seems too much, it is useful if you want to attach it to your boom mic, which usually requires lifting your arms for a long time. but if you simply attach it to the ribcage, no pain, no game! But more on that later....)
http://member/compatta/http://member/compatta/


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As the guy that i got it from, here are my following tips:

1. Pre-fit all your parts before gluing2. make sure you are gluin the right part to the part is was originally connected to (or else the scale of it gets all ugly and tends not to fit well)

The finished product should be the picture above. Notice that i added the insulation and didn't buy or add the "bogen swivel" because i felt 30 dollars was too muchanyways. anyhow, i solved that problem later on as we build the swivel attachment.

Image Notes1. As i call them, parts usually require "ingots" so that they can fit together andhopefully stay together. thats why always test before you glue because blue pvcpaint tends to wruin the color scheme2. this is the gray part i have been talking about. it should be 90 degrees andgray and you should find it in the electrical department my the conduit.3. I have retarded big toes.....oh well4. Be sure this part is straight! you may have to size two other sections to getthis straight

Image Notes

1. indeed the most original part. stick the microphone in the 3/4 inch pvc and besure to wire it through the pvc to give it a more professional look. also be sure tduck tape the microphone to the pvc conection and 2 more connections afterthat.

Step 2:Make the swivel mechanismHere is the "swivel" part that attributes all my genius. it has the the concepts of "inertia" and "low center of gravity." now only that, but the design is pretty simple becauits like a steadicam, except you don't have to involve yourself with cutting metal and involving yourself in the arduous process of using springs as the mechanism.anyways here is a parts list of my endeavors

"swivel part"

12 1/4" x 3/4 bolt12 1/4" lock washer18 1/4 nut2 inch casters w/break (rotates 2 ways. should be rotable and have a nut on it )2 iinch caster (the only part that rotates is the wheel. should have nut on it)

2 pieces of wood (preferably about 1.5 inch wide by 2 feet long and 1/4 inch thick)1 bag of 104 1/4 x 2 inch bolts1 3.5 inch bolt4 flat washers1 3/8 x 1 hexbolt1 3/8 nut1 3/8 washer2 1/4 x 2 bolt2 water risers2 "water caps"

Well, that may not be the complete descriptsion, but its my best try. if you want more details, simply e-mail me. i might post more about this.


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Image Notes1. notice this part attached to the opening part of the rib cage and that it isconnected by a 3/8 hexbolt and of course has a nut and a washer. This iswhere your drill might become handy.2. Notice how i screwed it in the baste by using a 1/4 x 1 bolt, a cut washer anda nut to make it secure. Though you can go through with a total of 2connections just to make it physically secure. but i like aesthetics and tradtition,so there must be four.

Image Notes1. notice this part is not the regular axle that came witht he caster with the break

this is slightly larger so that it can allow for more strength to be applied into thescrew and make it stronger. notice the brass color is the part on the casterseparting the two. my methodology is to put the straight caster first than thebending caster second. also be sure to put washers at the end so that thepressure is distributed.

Image Notes1. you will notice that the "straight" caster without the break are connected asso. Also you can make a note that the the caster with breaks (ok.... it has nobreaks.....but it originally did) is that they are both facing forward.2. Notice this weird part right here. thats the top

Image Notes1. notice that it may look like a mistake....but it is not. its there so it has enoughspace for the counter balance "caster wheels." notice that the attachment that othe top part has no washers while the one that attaches to the handle does havwashers.

Image Notes1. this is the interface to the handles. these are i think 10/24 holes and shouldcome in a pack of 6 at home depot. they should be around 1 inch long.2. this is not only the length of the camera, but also the place where you willscrew in your camera in the big hole. notice the holes to the left are slightly


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smaller and measre 10/24. you can get them in a bag of 6.3. notice this attaches to your swivel meahanism and its is set purposely faraway so tha thte camera can fit on the stick.4. this is the part that connects to your camera. It s a circle now but later theirwill be a flat washer to make it even.5. i also added an extra washer right here so that it can be a bit more balanced.6. This little box right here represents the connection of the top board to our"swivel meachanism"

Image Notes1. notice these have 2 bolts on it. if not, screw it in more!2. notice this part is about the length of your camera. So it may vary from cameto camera.3. Notice how much they should protrude right here. if it look like this, that meanyou have done it right. see that each screw has 2 nuts on it just in case it decideto come off.4. You will find this is sepcail bins at home depot. It nice because you can adjusit anytime without a screwdriver5. this is there you screw in your camera.

Image Notes1. Little aesthetics right her for balance.2. this is in the sprinler section. they are called "water risers" and cost about 12cents (they attach to your sprinkler)3. maybe you can notice these look fancy. You actually don't need this all. awasher and a bolt would be okay.4. Noticed how this is finished. ahhh....sweet love and cherios. i modified thedesign because it was requested it needed more of a counterbalance on thisone side, so i mode all the weels to the other side and reversed direction of the

plastic poles (my friend thought it was a T-fighter in start wars)5. notice i modded the connections a bit. i cut off the screwy end and part of thetop so that it would be more flat and interface witht he wood better.6. Be sure to replace these with regular 1/4 nuts and not the original ones onthe casters axle. you would be surprised how much defective 1/4 nut you wouldfind. a good test to see if a nut is good is to bare put it on. if it screws on withouteffort, its a good nut.7. See that they don't protrude too much


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Step 3:Making a boom micsincei am not that great with descriptions, i will instead show my artistic abilities and show you my description of how to make a boom mic and attach it to the rib cage.

why do this you ask?-well boom mic operators need really strong arms.fact: not everybody has strong arms with lots of endurance-also, it is near effortless. enjoy!

Image Notes1. indeed the most original part. stick the microphone in the 3/4 inch pvc and be sure to wire it through the pvc to give it a more professional look. also be sure toduck tape the microphone to the pvc conection and 2 more connections after that.

Step 4:Putting it all together.well if you did it correctly, than it should probably look something l ike the pictures below.

-It laying in the grass-when its actually assembled


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Image Notes1. notice there are supposed to be a velcro strap right her. so far. i need tosolve the lower support system. But isn't that where you come in?

Image Notes1. This is where the "attachment" can be placed. from your boom mic to yourswivel, many things can be attached. (perhaps even a portable green screen?)2. Our course our nice pcb r ib cage. notice the insulation are on the points ittouched your body. makes it more comfortable due to the weight.3. Of course this is your swivel mechanism so that you can rotate the camera.my tips is to put the strap around your head for more stability and hold at least 2sides for extra stability.

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Comments

39 comments Add Comment

JasonB says: Jan 1, 2008. 9:23 AM REPHere's another newer version of a Home Built Steadycam design.

View sample footage at:http://www.Steadycam-Pro.com

cecilomar says: Dec 6, 2008. 5:04 AM REPYeah, it's awesome. I will build it next month but I will add some static and design changes.
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jimtran93 says: Aug 21, 2010. 8:07 PM REPthe site has been down for a while. do you think yo can post an intructable on how to make one? i know a lot of people would love to know how tomake one!

texabyte says: Mar 27, 2010. 4:11 PM REPThis is not a steadicam. Please change the title

noobhax says: Jun 27, 2010. 6:35 AM REPYou're a steadicam

texabyte says: Jun 27, 2010. 7:08 AM REPhttp://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/photo.php?pid=31338874&id=1258756889

noobhax says: Jun 28, 2010. 3:29 AM REPkekekeke

plinkoking says: Apr 20, 2010. 9:27 AM REPHey everyone, I have been using the smoothmount for a while now and I love i t. It only cost $130 and in my opinion works as well as a merlin. check it out www.smoothmount.com

guy90 says: Mar 25, 2010. 3:20 AM REPThank you for the upload :)

ejf says: Jan 27, 2010. 6:24 AM REPwood is only 1/4 inch thick?? how is it holding the weight?

gumshu says: Feb 1, 2009. 1:01 PM REPAnyone familiar with a type of steadycam which focuses on the person wearing the camera? Such as in the movie "Any Given Sunday," when they arefilming the ball carrier. The camera focusing on the ball carrier leads me to believe the ball carrier is wearing a type of steadycam. Any leads?

Airwolf1 says: Aug 14, 2009. 1:56 AM REPThat has to be the snorricam, think thats the name, can find info here: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Snorricam/not a great design, but seems to work. Good luck and have fun.

moesboy says: Nov 6, 2008. 6:58 AM REPthis is awesome I'm going to build it

Russko says: Oct 28, 2008. 10:58 PM REPHeyy uys... I went to et the parts and it ended up bein heaps for the PVC pipin , do you know how i could et them cheaper?

PsyOp says: Oct 28, 2008. 8:11 PM REPBut do you think they would eventually loosen up and get longer?

PsyOp says: Oct 28, 2008. 8:11 PM REPI recently got some bungee chord that may be substituted for the usage of springs on a rig

veggiefreak911 says: Nov 1, 2007. 10:37 PM REPcould you use a desk lamp arm or hinge as the spring, i looks a lot like this: http://www.dvinfo.net/articles/camsupport/dvsportster1.phpand then you could use an old back pack with a hip strap so it would be more snug

if i do it, i'll post it
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penfacerat says: Aug 10, 2007. 2:53 AM REPi can not read this pic please tell me what it says!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

compatta says: Aug 10, 2007. 1:29 PM REPwhat it basically says is: (assumed you built the cage) you need a 3/4 pvc pipe 30 degree electrical pipe 90 degree electrical pipe (did i mention it wasgrey?....you can obtain this in your electrical conduit section) 1 coupler (it couples things) attach the coupler to the 90 degree pipe and than to the 3/4 ppipe and than to the 30 de ree pipe. Kinda like in the picture. Did that somewhat answer your question?

penfacerat says: Aug 13, 2007. 6:34 PM REPyes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

wingman358 says: Apr 1, 2007. 11:26 PM REPNice desgin, but you should add a video to show it in action and give a sample of some video while using this setup

piper1234 says: Dec 5, 2006. 9:01 PM REPhaa hey dog it may look not as sophisticated as a manfrotto thing but ... u have some poseted like that :P hehe, besides from here there's always a way tofigure how to improve it

aplusjimages says: Oct 17, 2006. 3:05 PM REPtry the spiderbrace design instead.

http://spiderbrace.com/

I have one and it works great. I think this design could benefit from being a little simplier.

Frodo_13 says: Jun 4, 2006. 9:37 AM REPI can see some of the benefits of the device it should be noted that the shoulder mount is not preferred for steady cam work do to the movement caused bybreathing. (something most union camera operators insist on). A more stable platform would be the waist/ hips. Also the photographs are so poor it dosen'give me confidence that the device is part of a "real" photographers aresnal. MAybe a better descirption would be an over the shoulder camera rest.

Kegtapper says: May 19, 2006. 1:17 PM REPTry this... Get an old Quantum Harddrive (BigFoot) with a 12v battery pack (so you don't use the camera power. Make a screwmount centered on the drivespindle (to attach camera mount) that will give you a real steadycam gyroscopic feel.

compatta says: Apr 24, 2006. 10:41 PM REPoh yeah...........its for lazy people who don't have the strength to hold it that long (you do notice those guys have really strong arms)

Brentwood says: Apr 11, 2006. 1:31 PM REPCool design, but as others have pointed out there is no steadicam aspect to it so the title of the tip is misleading.

pgiambat says: Apr 5, 2006. 5:19 PM REPI don't see the "Steadicam" aspect. What I see is some VERY smooth panning. The camera operator has the stabilizer and camera fixed to his body,therefore it will transfer at least vertical motion but should cut out some lateral motion due to the caster bearings. NOW, if you could extend the the distancbetween caster bases 2 & 3 and keep the connections between casters 1 & 2 and between 3 & 4 as well as attaching some push retention springs balancefor the weight of the individual camera and stabilizer unit... you would have an actual "Steadicam"!!!!!! It does look great though, nice job. Personally I use astabilizer "Pogo" stick made from 1/2" steel pipe 2' long with a 2.5 lb weight at the bottom. Less than $10 and just screw it all together and I had a greatimprovement in tilt-motion translation, vertical and lateral are still there but not as pronounced. Steadiness starts from the inside......

pgiambat says: Apr 5, 2006. 5:24 PM REPCorrection.... ....and keep the connections between casters 1 & 2 and between 3 & 4 LOOSE WITH SOME BRASS WASHERS AND CORRECT BOLT

TENSION as well as attaching....

pgiambat says: Apr 5, 2006. 5:23 PM REPCorrection.... ....and keep the connections between casters 1 & 2 and between 3 & 4 LOOSE WITH SOME BRASS WASHERS AND CORRECT BOLTTENSION as well as attaching....

pgiambat says: Apr 5, 2006. 5:22 PM REPCorrection.... ....and keep the connections between casters 1 & 2 and between 3 & 4 LOOSE WITH SOME BRASS WASHERS AND CORRECT BOLTTENSION as well as attaching....
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10/10

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