IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF CARAVAGGIO MILAN TO NAPLES SEPTEMBER 13-29, 2017 TOUR LEADER: DR KATHLEEN OLIVE

Overview Academy Travel is proud to offer a tour that explores the work of exceptional artist Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio. His chiaroscuro technique, accentuating the dramatic contrasts between light and shade, control of the oil medium, and infusion of emotional intensity and the theatre of everyday life ensure that his works continue to captivate art lovers.

This 17-day tour surveys the majority of Caravaggio’s work throughout Italy, from his early days as a painter of natura morta (still life), to his mature works in Rome and Naples’ chapels. We also see key works of the period in their architectural context, from Caravaggio and Raphael’s canvases, to Bernini’s sculpture and Borromini’s architectural virtuosity.

Explore world-class art galleries, opulent churches and chapels to admire a broad selection of Caravaggio’s work. Trace the artist’s fascinating life in Italy, traversing Italy’s boot from north to south, starting with his birthplace, visiting the various cities in which he lived and worked, and the beach where he died. The tour offers a variety of experiences and landscapes from the tranquil waters of Lake Iseo to a day in the Tuscan countryside and a musical concert dedicated to Caravaggio’s vision in a glorious Roman palace.

The journey has all the characteristics of an Academy Travel tour – four-night stays in small, friendly hotels which have been personally inspected by our staff, background talks before site visits and a maximum group size of just 20.

Your tour leader Dr Kathleen Olive has more than 15 years’ experience leading tours to Italy. She has a PhD in Italian literature, regularly presents popular courses at Sydney University’s Centre for Continuing Education and at the WEA, Sydney, and speaks fluent Italian.

Kathleen has a specific interest in Italian culture of the Middle Ages and Renaissance, from the connections

between the literature of Dante, Petrarch and Boccaccio and the painting of Giotto, through to the control of cultural life under Florence’s Medici family.

Renaissance culture has also been the focus of Kathleen’s academic research, and in 2015 her critical edition of a key Italian text – the Codex Rustici, a commonplace book compiled and illustrated by a 15th-century Florentine goldsmith – was published by Olschki. Together with co-author Nerida Newbigin, Kathleen was in Florence when this publication was presented to Pope Francis I as an official gift on his first trip to the city, and it has subsequently been launched at the Uffizi Galleries in Florence, the Vatican Museums in Rome, the Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale in Florence (Italy’s Library of Congress) – and even at the Custodia della Terra Santa in Jerusalem!

“Kathleen was an outstanding tour leader. She was exceptionally knowledgeable and a gifted presenter. She went above and beyond, looking after group members’ individual needs and making sure everyone was happy. Her obvious passion for Italy was infectious. I would love to do a tour with her again.” Feedback from Academy Travel’s Grand Tour of Italy, April 2015

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF CARAVAGGIO MILAN TO NAPLES

Tour dates: September 13-29, 2017

Tour leader: Dr Kathleen Olive

Tour Price: $8,760 per person, twin share

Single Supplement: $1,950 for sole use of double room

Booking deposit: $500 per person

Recommended airline: Emirates

Maximum places: 20

Itinerary: Milan (4 nights), Florence (4 nights), Rome (4 nights), Naples (4 nights)

Date published: September 27, 2016

Enquiries and bookings

For further information and to secure a place on this tour please contact Kathy Wardrop at Academy Travel on 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email kathy@academytravel.com.au

Tour Highlights

CARAVAGGIO’S MOST FAMOUS WORKS See Caravaggio’s most famous works in situ in Rome, including his powerful Conversion of Saul and Martyrdom of Paul at Santa Maria del Popolo, San Luigi del Francesi’s St Matthew and the nearby Pilgrim Madonna in Sant’Agostino

HIDDEN GEM MUSEUMS AND REGIONAL MASTERPIECES Visit small but world-class museums such as the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana in Milan and the Galleria Borghese in Rome, and see fine works – Correggio and Parmigianino in Parma; Pontormo outside Florence – in difficult-to-access places

PALAZZO COLONNA Visit this beautiful family palace in Rome to see its impressive galleria, with wonderful Baroque works by Caravaggio’s most accomplished contemporaries

LEONARDO DA VINCI’S LAST SUPPER Admire one of the world’s most famous works of art for yourself at the Santa Maria delle Grazie convent

ICONIC ITALIAN LANDSCAPES From the tranquil waters of Iseo, in the Italian lakes district, to the rolling hills of Tuscan wine country, the picturesque harbour of Porto Ercole and the dramatic backdrop of Mount Vesuvius in Naples

CARAVAGGIO: TURMOIL AND TRANQUILLITY

Caravaggio’s art was uncompromising and controversial from the moment the Lombard painter emerged on the Roman scene at the turn of the 17th century. From his riotous but naturalistic still life paintings, to his revolutionary use of light and shade (chiaroscuro) and dramatic way of capturing the moment, the artist was ever the virtuoso. Michelangelo di Merisi da Caravaggio played as hard as he worked, and was constantly in trouble. Most of what we know about his life comes from surviving legal documents: the skirmishes he got into with rival painters, his penchant for hanging around with louche lads and beautiful prostitutes – even official reports that he threw a dish of artichokes in the face of a waiter who’d insulted his friends, and skipped out on a rental contract with a substantial amount owing to his disgruntled landlady. When he murdered a man on a tennis court in Rome in 1606, however, Caravaggio crossed a line even his important patrons couldn’t draw him back from and he fled – first to Naples, then to Malta and Sicily – inspiring subsequent generations of painters wherever he went. It’s even been suggested that he ushered in the Baroque style in Rome – its theatricality is linked to his interest in dramatic emotional contrasts, its elaborate decoration seemingly at odds with his drive to copy from nature – and modern artists, from Bacon to Hockney and Currin, acknowledge his impact on their work. Despite the turmoil of his life, Caravaggio was capable of

producing some of the most “quiet” or tranquil paintings imaginable. His lovely Rest on the Flight into Egypt (ca 1597, now in Rome’s Doria Pamphilj Gallery) shows Joseph awkwardly yet patiently holding a musical score up to a beautiful adolescent angel. The angel’s violin-playing soothes the baby Jesus who dozes in Mary’s warm embrace. Another favourite is his Pilgrim’s Madonna (ca 1604-1606), still hanging in the Roman church for which it was commissioned. Caravaggio lived around the corner from Sant’Agostino, and knew a number of the courtesans who had a particular devotion to a miraculous image still preserved here. Many of the sumptuous chapels were, in fact, commissioned by wealthy working women, and it was even Caravaggio’s choice to have a prostitute model for this altarpiece, representing no less than the Virgin Mary! This was a controversial decision – as was the “indecorous” representation of dirty feet on the pilgrims kneeling before her – but there is no denying the beautiful realism Caravaggio shows in the mother-child relationship. A toddler Jesus clutches his mother’s breast in an entirely natural way, and she balances his weight on her hip as she silently acknowledges the humble pilgrims before them. It is perhaps precisely these tensions – between violence and peace, beauty and humility, Caravaggio’s careful skill and own complicated life – that beg as many questions as they resolve, and still attract us to the painter’s work.

Above: Caravaggio’s Pilgrim’s Madonna in the Church of Sant’Agostino in Rome and Rest on the Flight into Egypt in the Doria Pamphilj Gallery of Rome

Detailed itinerary Included meals are shown with the letters B, L and D.

Wednesday 13 September Arrival

This afternoon tour leader Dr Kathleen Olive meets the group at the hotel and we walk to the nearby cathedral to ascend to the panoramic terraces. There is a light dinner in the hotel. Overnight Milan (D)

Thursday 14 September Leonardo and optical science

A still life painter, Caravaggio was interested in optics in order to depict transparent objects. After 1495 Renaissance optics were revolutionised by Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper. Following our booked visit, we see Leonardo’s dramatic changes to Italian science and artistic technique reflected in his contemporary Luini’s work at San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore. This afternoon is at leisure to perhaps visit the Castello Sforzesco, the iconic fortress partially designed by Leonardo and hosting Michelangelo’s final work, the Rondanini Pietà. Overnight Milan (B)

Friday 15 September Caravaggio and Lake Iseo

This morning we visit the town of Caravaggio near Bergamo, where our painter spent his early years. His father worked for the marquis and Caravaggio’s connections with the Colonna would prove instrumental in his career and safety! We then continue to Lake Iseo where we tour the tranquil lake by boat, stopping at Monte Isola and enjoy lunch in an excellent restaurant. We return to Milan in the late afternoon. Overnight Milan (B, L)

Saturday 16 September Still lifes and suppers

This morning we travel to San Simpliciano, where Bergognone – a key Lombard contemporary of Leonardo – worked on beautiful apse frescoes. Caravaggio’s apprenticeship in Milan would have included the study of masterpieces like these. We continue to the Pinacoteca di Brera, where the world-class art collection includes Mantegna’s Dead Christ, works by Raphael and Piero della Francesca, and Caravaggio’s Supper at Emmaus. In the afternoon there is an optional visit to the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, a private gallery with a large collection of Leonardo’s drawings and Caravaggio’s Basket of Fruit. Overnight Milan (B)

Sunday 17 September Mannerism in Parma

We depart for Florence today, travelling via Parma. In this elegant town we admire the work of 16th-century painters

Above: The Gothic cathedral of Milan, dedicated to St Mary of the Nativity, is the largest church in Italy Below: The tranquil waters of Lake Iseo, nestled in the foothills of the Alps, is located near the town of Caravaggio and the cities of Brescia and Bergamo; and Mantegna’s haunting Dead Christ in the Pinacoteca di Brera of Milan

Correggio and Parmigianino in the cathedral, San Giovanni Evangelista and the Camera di San Paolo. Farnese court artists and fashionable Mannerists, their artifice and exaggeration are a counterpoint to Caravaggio’s naturalism. In the afternoon we continue to Florence and enjoy a light dinner near our hotel. Overnight Florence (B, D)

Monday 18 September 17th-century science and culture

We begin today at the Museo Galileo Galilei, Florence’s science museum. Galileo’s career highlights, like Caravaggio’s, the tensions in Counter Reformation society. Restricted by the Church’s approach to science and culture, he was forced to deny heliocentrism (which challenged scriptural interpretation). An engineer and scientist, Galileo took a personal interest in optics for his astronomical study. Overnight Florence (B)

Tuesday 19 September World-class art

We start this morning at the Uffizi, Florence’s premier art collection, reflecting the tastes of the Medici. The dynasty received diplomatic gifts of Caravaggio’s paintings: the early Bacchus, terrible Medusa, and tense Abraham sacrificing Isaac. This afternoon we continue to the Pitti Palace, to see Caravaggio’s disturbing Sleeping Cupid. At both galleries we compare Caravaggio with his followers – particularly Artemisia Gentileschi, a female painter with a difficult but celebrated career. Overnight Florence (B)

Wednesday 20 September In the Tuscan countryside

This morning we journey into the Florentine countryside, Medici playground and site of the court’s favoured villas. In the 16th century Pontormo – whose naturalism and emotional range parallel Caravaggio’s own – was called to work at Poggio a Caiano, his frescoes celebrating a Medici golden age. We continue to Carmignano for a degustation and lunch at a family winery in the hills, then visit Pontormo’s moving meditation on identity: the Visitation. Overnight Florence (B, L)

Thursday 21 September On a beach in Porto Ercole

We transfer to Rome today via Porto Ercole. Caravaggio died a lonely death here on 18 July 1610, during his desperate attempt to reach Rome. Conspiracy theories abound: was he pursued by an assassin sent from the Knights of Malta? Did he contract malaria? Archaeologists even claim to have discovered Caravaggio’s bones! After a group lunch by the pretty harbour, we continue to Rome. Overnight Rome (B, L)

Images left: The striking Baptistery of Parma; Caravaggio’s Bacchus in the Uffizi of Florence; and the coastal Tuscan town of Porto Ercole

Friday 22 September Pilgrims & penitents

Caravaggio’s career peaked in Rome and we spend today where he lived, loved, worked and fought! At Santa Maria del Popolo, we see his powerful Conversion of Saul and Martyrdom of Paul, dynamic meetings of the everyday world and the divine. After lunch, we walk to San Luigi dei Francesi, where the quiet nature of Caravaggio’s Calling of Matthew contrasts with the violent swirls of the Martyrdom. Nearby in Sant’Agostino is the Pilgrim Madonna. A community of courtesans favoured this church, and Caravaggio shocked contemporaries by giving his lovely Madonna one of their faces. Overnight Rome (B)

Saturday 23 September Music and gambling

This morning we visit the Galleria Doria-Pamphilj, an elegant family palace. Caravaggio’s Penitent Magdalene and Rest on the Flight to Egypt are displayed. Schedules permitting, we enjoy a concert of music here from Caravaggio’s time. At the Capitoline Galleries this afternoon, we examine a re-attributed work and early piece that Caravaggio himself copied, the John the Baptist and Fortune Teller. There is a group meal tonight. Overnight Rome (B, D)

Sunday 24 September Roman palaces and villas

This morning we take a coach to the Borghese, one of the world’s best small museums. Its collection boasts Caravaggio’s Boy with a Basket of Fruit and Sick Bacchus, and there are fine works by Titian, Raphael and Bernini. Afterwards we continue to the Palazzo Barberini, where Caravaggio’s Judith beheading Holofernes, Narcissus and John the Baptist are complemented by the works of his rival Baglione. Overnight Rome (B)

Monday 25 September The Carracci

17th-century Rome buzzed with competition and the workshop of the Carracci was highly innovative, favouring a vibrant palette and energetic style. We have a special visit to the Galleria Colonna, still a private residence and host to Annibale Carracci’s Bean Eater, along with other fine works. We then continue to Naples, where we check in and enjoy a light dinner near our hotel. Overnight Naples (B, D)

Tuesday 26 September 17th-century Naples

When Caravaggio was convicted of murder, he fled to Naples where he found a populous city and wealthy patrons. This morning we have a guided visit of the Museo di San Martino, a grand monastery decorated by Caravaggists De

Above: Caravaggio’s powerful Conversion of Saul in the Cerasi Chapel of the church of Santa Maria del Popolo in Rome Below: Inside the opulent Galleria Colonna one of the oldest and largest private palaces of Rome. Its construction began in the 14th century by the Colonna family, who still resides there since eight centuries

Hotels Hotels have been selected principally for their central location.

Milan, Hotel de la Ville (4 nights) www.delavillemilano.com

Florence, Gallery Art Hotel (4 nights) www.lungarnocollection.com/gallery-hotel-art

Rome, Hotel Ponte Sisto (4 nights) www.hotelpontesisto.it

Naples, Hotel Palazzo Alabardieri (4 nights) www.palazzoalabardieri.it

Ribera and Battistello. In central Naples San Giovanni a Carbonara is little visited but a beautiful oasis of Gothic charm and in the cloister of Santa Chiara, we enjoy vivid depictions in majolica of Neapolitan life after Caravaggio. Overnight Naples (B)

Wednesday 27 September Walking with Caravaggio

We begin today at Naples cathedral, dedicated to St Januarius. His blood liquefies as a sign of the city’s continuing fortunes, and Jusepe De Ribera’s fine Treasury paintings indicate Caravaggio’s impact on Neapolitan painting. At the Pio Monte della Misericordia, we admire the complex Seven Works of Mercy. We also enjoy a private visit of Palazzo Cellammare, Caravaggio’s final refuge in Naples. Overnight Naples (B)

Thursday 28 September Capodimonte and Ursula

This morning we visit Capodimonte, a vast Bourbon hunting lodge. Its celebrated fine arts museum hosts masterpieces by Masaccio, Botticelli and Raphael. Caravaggio’s triumph of perspective, the Flagellation, is here alongside works by De Ribera and El Greco. In the afternoon, at the Palazzo Stigliano, we admire Caravaggio’s last work, The Martyrdom of St Ursula. We enjoy a farewell dinner in Santa Lucia harbour tonight. Overnight Naples (B, D)

Friday 29 September Departure

After check-out we visit Naples’ Archeological Museum. Known for its Pompeii collection, the museum also hosts the wonderful Farnese collection of ancient sculpture. The monumental Farnese Bull and Farnese Hercules were, before their removal to Naples, an inspiration to Michelangelo and so too for Caravaggio’s understanding of the human form. For those with evening flights, we continue to Rome’s Fiumicino airport. (B)

Above: The spectacular view across the Bay of Naples with Mount Vesuvius in the distance Below: Caravaggio’s dramatic The Flagellation of Christ in the Capodimonte Museum of Naples

Tour Price The tour price is $8,760 per person, twin share (land content only). The supplement for a single room is $1,950 per person. A non-refundable deposit of $500 per person is required to secure a place on the tour.

Tour Inclusions

Included in the tour price

All accommodation in selected four-star hotels All breakfasts Lunches and dinners as mentioned in the itinerary Land travel in Italy by air-conditioned coach Extensive background notes Background talks Services of an Australian tour leader throughout tour All entrance fees to sites mentioned on itinerary Qualified local guides at sites where required Porterage of one piece of luggage at all hotels

Not included in the tour price

International airfares (competitive quotes available) Travel insurance Meals not mentioned in itinerary Personal expenses

Air travel OPTIONS The tour price quoted is for land content only. Emirates have flights into Milan and out of Rome at times that coincide with the tour. Please contact us for further information on competitive Economy, Business and First Class airfares. Transfers between airport and hotel are included for all passengers booking their flights through Academy Travel. These may be group or individual transfers.

Enquiries & bookings For further information and to secure a place on this tour please contact Kathy Wardrop at Academy Travel on 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email kathy@academytravel.com.au

Weather on Tour October is a very pleasant time to travel in Italy. Autumn has arrived but the days are not yet too cool. Expect average maximum temperatures of 19º - 22ºC during the day, and minimums of 10º - 13ºC at night. It is reasonable to expect passing showers or rain on a few days, but it is usually a sunny time of year.

Fitness Requirements of THIS tour

Grade Two

It is important both for you and for your fellow travellers that you are fit enough to be able to enjoy all the activities on this tour. To give you an indication of the level of physical fitness required to participate on our tours, we have given them a star grading. Academy Travel’s tours tend to feature extended walking tours and site visits, which require greater fitness than coach touring. We ask you to carefully consider your ability to meet the physical demands of the tour.

Participation criteria for this tour This Grade Two tour is designed for people who lead active lives and can comfortably participate in up to five hours of physical activity per day on most days, including longer walking tours, challenging archaeological sites, climbing stairs, embarking and disembarking trains and/or boats, and a more demanding tour schedule with one night stops or several internal flights. You should be able to: keep up with the group at all times walk for 4-5 kilometres at a moderate pace with only

short breaks stand for a reasonable length of time in galleries and

museums tolerate uncomfortable climatic conditions such as cold,

humidity and heat walk up and down slopes negotiate steps and slopes on archaeological sites,

which are often uneven and unstable get on and off a large coach with steep stairs, train or

boat unassisted, possibly with luggage move your luggage a short distance if required

A note for older travellers If you are more than 80 years old, or have restricted mobility, it is highly likely that you will find this itinerary challenging. You will have to miss several activities and will not get the full value of the tour. Your booking will not be accepted until after you have contacted Academy Travel to discuss your situation and the exact physical requirements of this tour. While we will do our best to reasonably accommodate the physical needs of all group members, we reserve the right to refuse bookings if we feel that the requirements of the tour are too demanding for you and/or if local conditions mean we cannot reasonably accommodate your condition.