in woman’s world. of · 2018-12-07 · 1 fringe. fringe of all kindtris “in.” fringe is used...

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BY MATE LEROY. SOME NEW RECEPTION GOWNS. t One of the prettiest, as well as most elegant, dresses I have seen Intended for this season for evening wear was shown me the other day. The gow“ was of rich cream white silk, With Jet sewed oh It In a way to make one think that handfuls of fine beads had been thrown at it from a distance and stuck there. The center of each figure •was in a dark mass, with straggling fines in every direction. The lower ones had the appearance of having dripped down. The design of these was never the same In two cases, and they are more than the size of a hand. These are sewed all over the skirt and upon the draped low bodice. There is one large one directly in front at the bust line and one at!the point of the waist, and these have all the droop- ing lines made loose In a handsome jet fringe. There 19 a jet fringe four inches wide at the bottom sowed on in scallops. There is a train, wide and long, and the effect of ail this fine cut jet sewed to the thick Bilk is indescribably rich. Under the edge of the skirt was a balayeuse of black lace. Nearly everybody is now thinking rath- er more of reception, evening and ball gowns than of those for street wear, though they claim a fair share of atten- tion, as do furs and hat3 and the many trifles classed under the head of accesso- ries. I find that lace is one of the first fac- tors in the making of handsome evening gowns and also for the special adorn- ment of tea gowns. The number of these last mentioned gowns would predict the consumption of enormous quantities of tea. Never have I seen so many tea gowns together nor so rich and handsome ones. f In one house there were hundreds of them, all Imported and bearing the name of famons Paris dressmakers. They vary in price from $15 to $250. Nearly all of them have an empire effect more or less pronounced. This means that the skirt falls from Just below the bust line in one long, graceful sweep. The upper portion of these U generally most elaborate and most often of elegant lace over some bright color. Velvet, ribbon and lace of every kind, as well as fine hand embroid- ery, In one or In many colors are used to decorate them, Ofie corgi pink Bilk brocade had a row of Alaska sable fur all around the skirt and up the front. Between the two fines of fur In front there was a full shirred panel of.white china crapa. A sash of the came reached from under the arms and tied la a loose knot and hung nearly to the floor at the left side, with a heavy knotted fringe to inatob. Home tea gowns have high collars. Oth- ers have the front open V shape. It is difficult to say which is the handsomest. I think It would depend more on the wearer. Xnere is one pretty style of nmshmg »£f a tea sown around the neck that nev- er seems to grow stale, and that is the swan’s down band. It is soft and delicate and sets off a young face beautifully, while It softens and tones down an older one. There are a few with high ruffs made very fall of silk mull edged with narrow batter colored lace. This shows well against the white, pink or pole blue of the ruff, and they may be of any one of these or of black with spangled edges. These, however, do not seem to be quite so well liked as the more elegant swan’s down or all lace trimming. Ribbons are among the favorite articles of ornamentation, and bow- -nd long, Boating ends will be seen where, particularly on tea gowns other home and Indoor gowns of ceremony. The preferred '.ribbon for snch use is double satin face with a heavy cord at the edge. Aside from tea gowbs, there are many other loose End comfortable house dresses worthy of special mention. There are kimonos, whore enough of Japanese ef- fect is retained to give a gown its char- acter and not enough to hamper the movement. These are-pretty. There are othgra made of plain or printed cash- mere or some one of the soft wools. I should have said in connection with the imported gowns that they are of bro- caded or embroidered Bilk, satin or velvet and with aC their trimming of the most expensive kind. The house gowns copy them clogely In style and general design, but are made In this country and of cheaper goods, but the gowns themselves are little less pretty. The empire and French waist effects, the yoke and the Brincess shape are all used as models for rorm. J nere are tome very uandswme brocaded wools in self colors. These trim- med with lace and ribbons give almost ns good an effect as the others. Then j? there are others where the gown is of the smooth farmer satin. This Is very dura- ble and useful and when in colors takes trimming Quite as well as real satin. Many like it better. It is produced in all the colorings. For inexpensive house gowns, especial- ly for morning, we have chinchilla cloth. This comes In rml, pink, blue an'd heiio- Is ’prettily trimmed wltr; velvet eonars, cuffs, pockets and yokes, while ribbon bows and lace over the yokes or other parts are often put for added effect. There are dainty Scotch flaunts, which make the neatest and nicest of morning gowns for young women, and old ones, too, and flannelette is offered in such a variety of designs and color that many persons buy it. It is cheap and very pret- ty until it is laundered. That takes away all its beauty. Eider down flannel is the coziest, soft- est and by all odds the warmest and best of ail the materials for early morning wear. This is produced in so many weights, degrees of fineness and colors that I despair of telling of them. They are usually made with half fitting back and loose front, with thick silk cord and tassels to match or ribbon half belts. Velvet collars and other accessories gen- erally are added to these, but if one wants to be particularly comfortable in one of these let her have a swan’s down of fur boa sewed arpund the neck. Beru- hardt knows what she is doing when she buries her face in a fluffy mass. There Is a small movement on foot to make black silk undergarments fashiona- ble, and we find a few black china silk chemises, drawers and nightgowns. Pet- ticoats we have had a long time. But, aside from the contingent of worshipers of new idols, these black undergarments find few adherents. White Is so much cleaner looking. I know one pretty Igdy who took such a great fancy for black silk underwear that she even had black silk sheets, but she soon grew tired of it all. This was sis or seven years ago. Perhaps the fashion for black underclothes will suc- ceed this time. Among the handsome new dresses for dinner, reception and visiting are three really very fine ones. One is of ashes of roses peau de gant silk. The skirt and waist are both plain, but overlaid with cream colored renais- sance lace In form of a flounce at the bot- tom of the skirt and a vest in front. There is a narrow belt of dark gray vel- vet. The collar Is of velvet overlaid with lace and has a full ruffle at the upper edge. The sleeves arc straight and tight and end at the bottom with chatelaine cuffs of velvet covered with lace. This gown is peculiarly refined and elegant. Another and rather more striking gown was of automobile red corded taffeta. The upper part of the waist was overlaid with a slender design in white lace ap- plique. Around tho bottom of the skirt were six narrow ruffles of black silk mus- lin edged wiffi black satin ribbon. There ! was an overdress In pinafore shape of black silk muslin wrought with black, green and iridescent spangles In Persian design. The sleeves were covered with i it also. The whole gown at a short dis- j tance had a sort of coppery color. It , waa very handsome and not so glaring as | one might think, the black toning it j down. The belt was black and the ruffles I to the sleeves. j All lace dresses are to be much in evi- dence. One design had a canary colored underslip of silk and a fringed sash and | collar of the same. The whole outer ! dress was of white net with applique of j heavier lace upon it in irregular design. Across the front breadth was a narrow lace flounce and another to simulate a tunic. I The waist had a yoke of heavily ap- | plied lace. Tho vest was gathered and | had ft lighter design. The sleeves were I gathered- The sash consisted of one width of soft taffeta with a deep knotted 1 fringe. Fringe of all kindtris “In.” Fringe is used to trim almost every- j thing, "but Its most particular mission j seem* to be to garnish skirts. It looks | almost ridiculous to see a handsome dress l with one or two rows of “minty” little i Tom Thumb fringe sewed around the | bottom. Some t>f the gowns have a com- piste overdress of the knotted heading, j often in different styles of knotting. IMilntja, meviuot) Travel, “Elevators are terrible sudden, but they save a power of climbin,” exclaim- ed the good woman from the country as soon as she had recovered breath after her first ride In an elevator. The miles of “climbin" saved seem more impres- sive if one considers the distance trav- ersed by the elevator cars iu one day in a single building in New York. The towering office building on Park row hns ten elevators, each shaft being £80 feet high. It takes minutes on an aver- age for the cars to go up or down, and they run all day, with brief intervals of waiting top and bottom. At this rate it Is computed that the elevator ears cover nearly 100 miles a day. The num- ber of passengers carried on each trip would rnn the total number of miles j of walking saved by the use of the ele- vators in one day into many times a hundred miles—New York Press. | --.rv.MmJ,r-pl. OoM lour SPW" Out. Sixteen ounces of gold arc suftieion* to gild a wire that would eneitA the earth. --;-5- Ol-fC Wt LGO ME U "t) tW E Y. How a Yvnns Womim Carried Deca- tni's Greeting to tbe Admiral. The city ot Decatur, Ills,, adopted a Corel method ot assuring Admiral Dewey that its dtlrena were anxious to do him honor. Realising that it was improbable that the admiral could be secured aa a guest, Decatur determined that If the he- ro would not ootne to them they would po to tbe hero. While ot course It was Impossible for the whole city to rush to New York, there yet remained one course open. This \yas to send a proxy, so a proxy was sent- Miss Lillian Irwin, an attractive young boman, was the person chosen as Decs- IRWIN. fur’s commissioner of welcome. When she started for New York, she carried with her an address signed by the city officials on behalf of the 27,000 Inhabit- ants of the city. The address begaD as follows: “Loving Greeting: Inspired by the memory of that gallant naval hero whose name it bears, the Inland city of Decatur, In the center of the Prairie State of Il- linois, yields to none in her admiration of the matchless achievements of Ameri- can seamen on all the waters of the globe. For them today these memories, this loving admiration, have been crystal- lized into the single name of Dewey.” Then follow 000 words of praise of the admiral. Miss Irwin found the admiral in New 'S’ork, delivered her message and then went back to Decatur a very proud young womun. _ KRUGER A PREACHER. al A president who can preach f Oom Paul Sometimes ;LS we]i ^ gov- ern and pray as | Oeenpies a Pnlpit well as fight Is I something of a I la Pretoria. novelty. But 1 _* Oom Paul is m such a presi- dent. It is well known that, like all Boers, be is a deeply religious man, but that he often goes into the pulpit and ex- pounds the Bible for the benefit of his good burghers is equally true. Until recent years it was quite the usu- al thing for President Kruger to go on Sunday morning to the little'Dutch Re- formed church opposite his residence in Pretoria and Mount to the pulpit. Of late years, however, these occasions have been infrequent, but even now he some- times turns preacher. When it is known that Kruger is to preach, the little church is always well filled, for Oom Paul often seizes the occasion to mix doctrine with politics and j thunder out denunciations of the Roo- j PRESIDENT KRUGER IN TUB PULPIT, ineks. This is the pet epithet for the British. Rooinek, it may be mentioned, means literally “redneck” and is the nickname the Boers applied to the Eng- lish because they had noticed that when a Briton was angry his neck grew red. President Kruger’s discourses are liber- ally sprinkled, as are his everyday con- versations, with Biblical quotations. He can prove by any chapter in the good book that the Lord is always on the side of the Boer. It is interesting to note, in connection with Kruger’s preaching, that Joseph Chamberlain taught a Sunday school ciass for a long time and today is some- times referred to by Englishmen as “the beh. red of Birmingham." “Blues” the Common Fate of All. “If we call the -roll of the groat teach- ers of this generation we discern that not one but has his hours of depression when his reform has seamed failure, and, weary of strife, he has asked God to take away his life,” writes Rev. Newell Dwight IIl&sls, D.D., of “An Outlook upon the Victory of Optimism,” In the Octo- ber "Ladles' Home Journal.” "Carlyle enters into gloom saying T shall die leav- ing no man the better for the living.’ Spencer, too, in the saddest pieces of writing our generation has seen, affirm- ed that he had failed to influence his gen- eration, Since a philosopher has done lit- tle for a man who simply shows him what is right; while Ruskin, like Elijah, bitterly and passionately prays for the end of his career.- But in retrospect we now see that in his depressed hour the prophet stood in a golden haze of glory that veiled the future fame and victory. So far from forgetting Turner, England has consecrated the ndblest room In her gallery to that man who was the groat master of orchestral effects in color. If the sense of failure once choked Buskin’s heart, now we see all economic teachers are writing their philosophy under the influence of his Christian spirit. If Car- lyle and Spencer once felt that they looked out upon wild tracks of savagery, Ignorance and vice, it Is given us to see afar off, like some nebula Just swinging into sight, the vision of a new era for man; an era of wisdom and justice and love.” Austrian Aboralgtnos. At the close of the last century there wore supposed to be 1,000,000 aborigines in There are now fewer than among them are still eome vvwvwvw^*vM»A^vvwvvwwywvvwvvvvvvvvvwvwvv in Woman’s World. Company manners, says the New Or- leans »imes-Democrat,” are labelled and laid away for finically nice conditions, which come to us from time to time— whenevr, in fact, we meet new people upon whom we deem It, by hearsay, worth while making an Impression.' If not too stilted, our company man- ners should be taken with us on nur summer trips to the country, although there bo not a prospect of making new acquaintances of an especially—um—solid sort. Cultivation of these, our best manners, should begin in the home, and care should be taken to exercise them daily, especially at such times when the members of tho family can witness the effect. Some per- sons who consider themselves well bred j and can authenticate the origin of every deed of courtesy from its historic begin- ning, for fear of wearing away their stock of gentility and their fetching graces, lay them away in a napkin, where they rust from disuse and become misfits finally. Getting the value of one’s fine Instincts is one of the most important deductions one can make, therfe Is no risk and an Inevitable gain. The gracious speech, the unselfish deed, are better prompted in the home by some loving eye to whom your comings in and goings out are a deal of interest. But you, perhaps, underestimating yourself, put on a boorish front, treat the expressions of the one who cares as : pathos and her ministrations as folly; not j thinking well of yourself you show your worser side and feel honestly willing to ! abide by the impression you leave. Hus- bands very often disparage their quali- ties to the point of being downright un- bearable as a companion for dinner, let ; alone a life-long lessee of home prlvl- leees. Girls let themselves run down un- ; til their laces lose their glow for the ]' love-offerings of home, and, like the gar- risli sunflowers, turn outward to beam. I don't know' of what metal mothers and grandmothers are made, unless It Is the Narcissus gold, for they are all so self- appreciative that they risk the wear and tear of their good manners and gentle phrases at all hours most recklessly; but it must be confessed that there are few Instances on record of our families when constant usage affected them in the least. I Those who must claim disruption of all i tenets affecting Lares and Penates ! through the feminine mainstay should ae- ! knowledge —e aristocratic, but morally j uncomfortable, family ghost. But. as to company manners. With what ! your heart dictates as the most refined conduct to be responsible for, a little In- cident which occurred at Pigeon Cove re- cently will prove a contrast. A woman who considers hersejf gently born and bred was invited to be one of a house party at that delightful hamlet. It is unnecessary to discredit any t.'ly by Stating her place of residence, tar she Is a reproach to any of them. She nr- ] rived with her daughter, and was shown j to. a large room oveflooking the Atlantic ! Ocean. The domestic then asked whether she could perform any service for the La- ! dies, when madamo, with raised prows, | said: ‘T perceive that there are two beds. ; Surely I am not expected t'o occupy a | room with my daughter?” The maid answered that she had been ; •told to make the ladies comfortable in j the blue room. “There musk be some mistake,” madams | remarked languidly. “Ask Mrs. Cove to : come here.” Mrs. Oove was chatting with other ! guests on the porch when the summons i came through the isomewhat frightened maid. With a smile she mounted the stairs, nek countenancing the absurd story of her servant; there was some mistake, of coitrse. "You surely bo not v'ish my daughter and me to sleep In the same room, Mrs. Cove?” said madame. “I had thought such a plan would r.oit be disagreeable,” ansrvered the hostess. ! “We have a very delightful man down j from Boston overnight, whom we had not expected until other guests had, lofL, and I have been obliged to give him. the room eonencting with this. I hope^ you will not be inconvenienced for this night, and tomorrow we will have less con- | traded quarters—though, as you see. tho j room is spacious, and I have no hesitancy in asking you to share a room with your own daughter.” One would think the incident, which had already consumed too much time, would ... here. But madame's nostrils quivered like those of the traditional Ukraine horse, and she refused to take the chair proffered hy the necessarily de- cided hostess. _ “My daughter and I have never occu- pied a room itogethfer.” said, madame, coldly ‘’and I should decidedly prefer not «o do so now. I should have postponed, my visit to you till you could acoommo- diate us properly, had I known that your houiso Is now too Cull. 1 am sure that the Boston gentleman will he glad to oblige mo by giving me hl's room, and you can put Mm in with some other men in the bachelor quarters, I know your house so well, my dear, 'that I am sure It will 'fltrdt'ch to unknown limits. Please use your .accustomed tadt In this matter, and <ais soon, as possible." The bos#®* Wad met all ..sorts and con- ditions of pediple in her cosmopolitan ca- reer, butt she bad never received orders before from, a guest under her roof. She Butm-omwed 'her spirit of tolerance, and, with apparent inex-citaibillty, left the room. Astonished at her own- calmness, Bhe gave orders 'to remove the luggage of the Bos-tonese Into 'her son’s chamber, pending that young gentleman to a room over the stable. Madame won her way, Jt would seem, but she baa rescinded a heretofore stand- ing invitation to visit at 'that particular summer house in Pigeon Cove. * It seems to me Ithalt the up-to-dateness on -which so many women pride them- selves is only another term- for unrest, comments one of our sex. The simple -truths, the genuine hospital- ity of certain htom-ea I know and to which the talbel “out of style" has been so long atlfaichdd 'that It la never thought about or ha* come ‘to be regarded as on -honor- able badge, bring a peace and refreshment ■to ail entering them, such as no heights of eltyle and ostentation of HVing eou.d : possibly roach. Our great crying need now, as It has ever been,' Is' for truer homes, home* whose quietness and retlffu-lness shall re- < store for the -battle, and give us new : strength and Inspiration. She who makiB i .11, -or series of ben off t dubs. bJo charity that any woman ever undertook will make ade- quate excuse, for inefficiency as head of 'her household, or as 'helpmate, could she only 'be persuaded of the fact! . There Is sound logic underlying the phi-. lGsopliy of optimism; nothing can be accomplished without hope, which is the foundation of success and Inseparable from ths optimistic view, says the “Woman’s Home Companion.” It Is In- stinct which makes us turn toward the sun, love gaiety and light and Joy. The great workers, the men who have headed vast changes, were cheerful men, loving their Joke, full of mellowness and bub- bling over with good humor. They had their uncertain moments, their fits of de- pression and despair, but the Indomitable spirit conquered, and courage and hope were never far distant. Our capacity for Joy is far greater than for pain. Nothing Is so easily forgotten as pain, nothing so long treasured as the remembrance of a supremely happy moment. The morality of optimism lies in Its energising touch. It gives us courage, it sweetens toil and makes every effort seem light compared to the goal lying beyond. The charm of yachting rests very large- ly upon its uncertainty. So elusive are the elements of air and water that from the moment when she is set afloat until she Is hauled out for repairs a vessel Is never at rest. The sea is forever seeking to force an entrance Into her from below and the winds of heaven are ever ready to snap her spars and rend her canvas overhead. It is largely luck if, when she Is first set afloat, she settles nearly enough to her estimated water-line to snrisfv thft idPHS of her rieslsrner. nnrl nothing but the keenest watchfulness can keep her up to a perfect standard of ef- fectiveness when she is called upon to en- dure the complicated strain of a sailing match in a smart breeze, says “Urpin- cott’s Magazine.” If any one questions the difficulties of such navigation, let him take the family umbrella and try to make it pull or push him across the lawn against the wind. This is precisely the problem that con- fronts the yachtsman, save only that in place of the umbrella he has to manage a towering structure of bellying canvas held aloft a hundred and more feet by slender spars and a network of cordage every fathom of which must be under absolute control if the beautiful—almost sentient-creature of canvas, wire and steel is to acquit herself with credit. * * * “Keep your vitality, above the negative condition and you will never know dis- ease of any kind,” writes E. B. Warman in the October “Ladies’ Home Journal.” “No disease can exist where there is an abundance of pure blood. To get the nec- essary amount, eat nutritious food; to cir- culate it perfectly, take proper exercise; to purify it, get fresh air and sunlight. If a perfectly healthy condition of the skin exists and an even temperature of the surfaacc of the body is maintained it is impossible to catch cold. Cold water baths taken every day will do much to- ward producing the former; proper food and exercise, the latter. Nature giyes you an alarm in the first chilly feeling. Heed it at once or pay-the penalty. Take a brisk walk or run. breathe deeply and keep the mouth closed. If you are so situated that you can do neither, as in a church, lecture room, street or steam car, breathe deeply, rapidly and noise- lessly until you are satisfied that your body has passed from a negative to a positive condition.” * * * Lack of application is the main reason for half of womankind’s shortcomings. It doesn’t matter whether it is the resolu- tion to put the baby to bed at 5:30 every lay or the determination to keep one’s bands and nails pretty—unless the wom- an is a real genius and an entirely out af the ordinary mortal her plans and sood intentions go by fits and starts and finally don’t get in working order at all. Beautifying need, not necessarily con- sume much of one’s time. When it gets to playing leading role in this moving panorama of existence, then it is not a desirable ambition, but a bother. Jf one will only got into the habit of following certain rules—eating what is. good for me, bathing regularly and taking out- 3oor exercise—about sixteen-seven teenths 3f the battle will be won. This spasmod- ic way of looking after one’s hair or jhe's finger nails isn’t worth tlje time t takes to tell it. The finger nails can >e made beautiful and dainty only by constant attention. Ten minutes every morning is worth a deal more than two flours of gouging and snipping and fuss- ing every week or so:. * Kentucky club women have undertaken crusade against slang. The federation >f that State has prepared a petition that is to be sent to school principals- and :eachers, asking their co-operation with :he council of the club presidents to se- cure a more careful use of English. The petition further declares that the great l imount of ungrammatical and poor | English and slang so constantly heard In :he home, the school room and on the jtreet is an offense to the ear that should lot exist. The petition might have gone ■till further and spoken of the torture to sensitive ears of flat or shrill, unmodu- ated voices rolling out careless, slovenly speech. In which syllables are cut out, mil the sound of honest, necessary letters willfully Ignored. The possibilities of the speaking voice are yet only half under- stood. There Is still hope, however, that parents will one day see the Importance >f spending much time on the cultivation >f the conversational voices of their sons ud doughters. * The manta for solving riddles ts In- herent in the human breast. The boy who vainly studies Euclid Is only the fore- runner of one of these elderly men who nay be seen any day In the remote car- ters of their clulbs, bending their reverend md often stately heads in futile attempts o solve magazine acrostics. Naturally, wherever guessing ts concerned, the Vmerican Is to the fore, an English maga- :ine asserts. "T g\jess” explains his at- itude; and the latest fashionable device, o make people In America "keep on messing" Is distinctly original. There. startling innovation. The hostess records the answers of the guests in a book, and the person who solves most riddles cor- rectly is awarded a prize—as a consola- tion^ I presume, for dyspepsia. Although this particular -form of enter- tainment is a novelty, those who protest against guessing as a horror, should re- member that the idea of it as a means of amusement is no new thing, and that to some minds It affords real delight. People who can remember social life in the later sixties tell us of the great popularity that riddles had in those days, and I am afraid that in t'he spelling bees which were so much the rage afterwards,, the hard words were often little more than a trial of con- jecture. * * Bad habits of children give not a little uneasiness to the mother, but if not ac- centuated by continual reminder they of- ten correct themselves. A girl, perhaps, has grown too fast and is not quite erect; continual directions, however, to straighten up and to throw back her shoi- ders never yet have been known to cor- rect the awkward tendency, but rather to increase it. And so the child in endeavor- ing to throw her shoulder back throws her stomach forward, the figure and pose being then made infinitely worse. A healthy degree of pride will straighten her when she gets a little older and attains to the age of corsets, when the needed support will be supplied. In the case of a boy who squints his eyes or makes faces, seemingly without knowledge of the fact, a doctor should be consulted. The rem- edy is never found in continual correct- ing, as this will merely make the child so self-conscious that the fault—if fault it be—is increased. Awkwardness in a child is often much be&ter for letting alone, the child being made sensitive in the extreme by a continual reminder of his deficiencies. * A professor in one of the many medical : colleges of this city holds that there Is i no need of buying and swallowing adver- tised tonics, because they accomplish no I more than a judiciously selected diet will, | says the Chicago “Chronicle.” The pro- fessor says that spinach is richer In Iron, which Is the basis of most tonics, than : even the yolk of an egg, while the latter i contains more than beef. The ordinary i dish of spinach and poached egg is a j tonic as potent as one in which iron ! forms a part, without the harmful ef- j feet of other ingredients that enter into ! the medicinal compound. Plants imbibe iron, and it is through them that we should absorb it into our system. The mineral is present largely in apples, len- tils, strawberries, white beans, peas, po- tatoes and most of the red fruits and vegetables. Stewed black currants, if taken dally in their season, will cure anaema that has become chronic. It is the experience of mariners that while lime juice is a pallia- tive of scurvy, potatoes are a specific. Nansen in his voyage on the Fram had no occasion to resort to the medicine chest. The concentrated form of all the fruits and vegetables that his men.-were accustomed to eat in Norway' was worth a shipload of drugs. It is the first in- stance on record of the escape of Arctio explorers confined on shipboard from the ravages of scurvy and it was due entirely to the tonic effect of the food supplied. * » The dainty girl, according to the Phila- delphia “‘Record,” has these characteris- tics:— * She does not economize on laundry for the sake of wearing a gold watch. She does not find it necessary to bring out a lot of company toilet Implements and display' them on her dressing table when a visitor is coming. She does .not wear a pair of silk stock- ings with “bargain” shoes, or a brocade gown with a gingham underskirt. She makes her undergarments from fine cotton and trims them with simple frills of the material, or with an occasional bit of honest crochet edging by her own fingers. She wears boots that are honestly- made from solid leather, and never in the ex- treme of fashion. She has dainty skirts In summer of linen or inexpensive pongee, trimmed again with ruffles of the same, that give as excellent a “stand off” effect as em- broidery, at a third of the cost. She has winter gowns of serge or cash- more, with flannel shirt waists for every day. a warm beaver coat, brown, blue or black, and a neat hat. In the summer she revels In cotton “things” In- expensive and always pretty. She hasn’t a single organdie or lawn cause, with her slender purse, the color could not he silk, and she knows the tawdry effect of cheap imitations; on the contrary, she has pletty of pretty mus- lins, trimmed with ruffles or narrowest Valenciennes, and several white lawns, with sashes of the same material. She does not despise the India print for mornings with white collar and cuffs, white belt and four-in-hand. She has also crash and duck skirts and plenty of gingham shirt waists. She Is careful to have everything she wears scrupulously clean and whole, there are no ragged Khams to disguise, and she is not struck dumb with terror, as some more smartly gowned girls we may have seen, by an Invitation to remain overnight and share an Impending gayety and the room of her girl hostess. People are going about this year with eitra covers to their watches, cases which show the face and appear to be made of celluloid. They cost only a trifle, and prevent the weather Influencing the works, a constant difficulty. What with the differences of time and climate, travel- ] ing clocks and watches are often a source I of discomfort rather than comfort. A very useful contrivance for hanging upon the I door Is a sort of curtain which covers the gowhs and takes up little room; it Is cer- tainly a great boon. The washing bags WILL COUNT HAWAIIAN5. Editor Who Is Special Censa%-Asea4 For Oub Sew Territory. Mr. Alatau X. Atkinson, who |g going to count noses in the Hawaiian Islands for Uncle Sam, has undertaken a job ot no mean proportions. His official title le special agent of the census for Ha- waii. He is a good deal of a cosmopo- lite, although at heart he is thoroughly American. Mr. Atkinson was born in Siberia of English- parentage. His father was X- ALATAU T. ATKINBOIT. W. Atkinson, an artist and traveler, who wrote “Oriental and Western Siberia” 1 and •’The Upper and Lower Amoor,” : which for many years were standard works on th» subjects of which they treated. His mother, too, was an author. She wrote “Tartar Tents and Their In- habitants,” a charming account of the do- mestic and family life of the Tartars. Mr. Atkinson wont to Hawaii in 1863 and was for a number of years principal of St. Albans college and later of the Fort Street government school, then per- haps the leading public school in the is- lands. From 1880 to 1887 he was editor of the Hawaiian Gazette. This was dur- j tog the perigd leading up to the revolu- tion of 1887, which oulminated in the j new constitution of that year. From 1887 to 1896 he was inspector general of schools, and it was during his j administration of the office that English ! was fully substituted for Hawaiian as j the medium of Instruction in all the gov- I ernment schools, a measure that has been of great benefit in the process of Ameri- canizing Hawaii. He was superintend- ent of the census In 1896 and a member of the legislature In 1898. Since 1897 he has been editor of the Hawaiian Star. WORLD’S FAIR WAIF. I He Is Now the Pride of His Foster Parents. ! William Por- ! ace Borer, aged 6, has the dis- tinction of be- ing theonly real World’s fair boyinthecoun- , try. This is how it happened: At the time of the Columbian exposition a creche was Instituted on the grounds, where daily hundreds of parents left their babies from morn till night on pay- ment of a small fee. It was anticipated that many unprinci- pled parents, desiring to get rid of their little ones, would take advantage of this opportunity, and the administration made arrangements with the Children’s Home and Aid society of Chicago to receive and care for all children that might be so abandoned. But of 10,002 tots placed in the day nursery during 1803 only one remained uncalled for, a baby boy weighing scarce- ly six pounds and judged to be about 0 ! * j I WIU.IAM OOKACa weeks old, with the most doubtful chances of ever adding another seven j days to his tender ape. The case wa$ mentioned in the papers and brought a large number of applica- tions for the child, among them one from Mrs. W. It. Boyer, whose husband had Full charge of the Illinois Institution For the Education of the Blind at Jacksou- i-iile, Ills. Mr. and Mrs. uvjw were allowed to adopt the child. He has grown up into healthy, active and precocious young- ster- He is extremely handsome, and his Foster parents think the world of him. Che accompanying picture of the World’s Fair waif was taken the other day just is he had conw from the barber’s, where ie had sacrificed the curls which had 1 Jeen his bane and his foster mother's >ride, _ Tortured Him. There is a retired organ grinder in \ Louisville who is both clever and rich. ] doing unable to collect three months’ l rent on a house he owned, he took his 1 irgan there and played it steadily in ] ront of the house till the tenant, assisted s >y his sympathetic suffering neighbors, -1 'aised the money and bought off the or- 1 ;an grinding landlord with the rent. T " s wore cnageron. "I see,” said the tall member of the r lillionaires’ club, “that there are noble- t len going around disguised as tramps.” f “That may be,” assented the member f nth marriageable daughters, “but what ? wish to look out for is tramps going t round disguised as lioblerne□.’’—Chicago Jews. -— I I of It Will Be <60 f Counti-r—To O^yQVoZ o S; j Chicago’s new postoffice, the corner- stone for which President McKinley laid the other duy, is to be the finest building of the kind in the country. Chicago de- serves it. The city of rs^dd growth haa seldom had a postofflee building large enough for its uses. On brief occasions the city has been satisfied with its postal facilities, but the city has either out- grown these structures or they hare been destroyed by fire. But the new postofflee promises to be big enough to accommodate all the postal business that Chicago will have for many years to come. The site is in the heart of the business district, where skyscrapers tower on ev- ery hand. It is the site on which stood the old postofflee, which was tom down to make way for the new structure. The old building was regarded as unsafe, and it was said that it was gradually sinking into the mud, yet it was necessary to us* dynamite in clearing away the old foun- dations. The architect. In designing a building to cover a lot 396 by 321 and hemmed in by lofty buildings, has successfully solv- ed a difficult problem. He has planned building which will not be obscured or overshadowed by its big neighbors and which will bo a relief to th* architecture of Chicago’s business district The basement and the two lower'floors of the building will be used entirely for postofflee purposes and will cover the en- tire lot. Above these the structure will be built in the shape of a cross. In this form the structure will rise eight stories. Above the main roof there will be eight additional stories, Inclosed In a dome 100 feet in diameter. The cross construction will permit all of the rooms to have out- side light and give the architect more scope for external effects, which would have been impossible with an edifice built up flush with the sidewalk. The building will be the highest offlen building in Chicago. There are building* FACADE OF CHICAGO’S 3TEW FOHKJmOL there with more^-storles than the new postoffiee, but the rooms of the latter will' be so lofty that if will excel in height all the other skyscrapers. All the hails of the budding wlli meet at the center under the dome in a great rotunda. On the different floors it Is expected that all the government offices of the city can be comfortably housed. They are now scattered about In the various big office buildings and were thus distribnted long before the old structure was demol- ished. A feature of the external appearance of the building will be the-massive granite columns at' the street ends of the cross sections. Five columns will reach from the. sec- ond floor to the roof. Each column win be five feet In diameter, and each mono- litb will weigh 84 tons. On each eorner Of the building will be a group of statu- ary. The receipts of the Chicago postoffiee, roughly estimated, amount to $6,000,000 a year, and of this about $31000,000 is profit. The new structure will cost, when com- pleted, at least $4,OOQ,0QQ. This was the estimate, but it is expected the total cost will exceed this amount. The ground on which the structure Btaads is worth $5,000,000, so that the new budding will represent an invest- ment of about $10,000,000. Work on the postoffiee: was begun about a year ago, and tho structure is rapidly assuming shape. The framework Is of steel and iron, which now reaches the height of nearly eight stories. In preparing the foundation for thia great weight $,000 piles, averaging 45 feet long and a foot thick,, were driven down to the solid substratum from 75 to 100 feet under the surface. These piles were cut off below the level of the lake, and upon them was placed concrete. Then piers of stone were laid on it up to the love) of the basement Boor, where the actual construction be- gins. No piers of masonry extend up through the building to support the upper stories^ not even for tho dome, the entire struc- ture being of steel. Upon this frame and the igirders, truss- .“s and beams are to be built the massive pcanite external wails. This Is said to be the first case in which granite is used with a steel frame. The dome masonry begins above the 1*44 4-K/n eidniwallt tud virtually rests y 220 feet long. A feature of the buiidUyi •ault of the subtreasury, watch wu nuglar, mob and fire proof and h mough* iflrer. ent- to the Dowager Kmpress of China present consisting of two vases and two amps, both of the famous Berlin porce- iln. It appears that this gift, owing is fragile nature, was the cause of ious trouble in Celestial official circle,, laron von Heyklng. the German Amir ador, duly delivered the ornaments to the 'sung-lt-Yamen, is order that they might e carried thence into the palace. On* f the servants, however, overwhelmed, erhaps, with the Importance of his mis- lon, let a vase fall, and In an instant he work of art lay on the ground In nousaand pieces. The terrified Mir ushcd to the Ambassador and beg* im to obtain a new vase from s quickly as might be. All the vase could not be made in les years. The Ministers then i Baron von Heyklng not to sn is desptch of two vases, but only* of cm*-/, a request which, of course, the Ambus-

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Page 1: in Woman’s World. of · 2018-12-07 · 1 fringe. Fringe of all kindtris “In.” Fringe is used to trim almost every- j thing, "but Its most particular mission j seem* to be to

BY MATE LEROY.

SOME NEW RECEPTION GOWNS.

t One of the prettiest, as well as most elegant, dresses I have seen Intended for this season for evening wear was shown me the other day.

The gow“ was of rich cream white silk, With Jet sewed oh It In a way to make one think that handfuls of fine beads had been thrown at it from a distance and stuck there. The center of each figure •was in a dark mass, with straggling fines in every direction. The lower ones had the appearance of having dripped down. The design of these was never the same

In two cases, and they are more than the size of a hand. These are sewed all over the skirt and upon the draped low bodice. There is one large one directly in front at the bust line and one at!the point of the waist, and these have all the droop- ing lines made loose In a handsome jet fringe.

There 19 a jet fringe four inches wide at the bottom sowed on in scallops. There is a train, wide and long, and the effect of ail this fine cut jet sewed to the thick Bilk is indescribably rich. Under the edge of the skirt was a balayeuse of black lace.

Nearly everybody is now thinking rath- er more of reception, evening and ball gowns than of those for street wear,

though they claim a fair share of atten- tion, as do furs and hat3 and the many trifles classed under the head of accesso- ries.

I find that lace is one of the first fac- tors in the making of handsome evening gowns and also for the special adorn- ment of tea gowns. The number of these last mentioned gowns would predict the consumption of enormous quantities of tea. Never have I seen so many tea gowns together nor so rich and handsome ones. f In one house there were hundreds of them, all Imported and bearing the name of famons Paris dressmakers. They vary in price from $15 to $250. Nearly all of them have an empire effect more or less pronounced. This means that the skirt falls from Just below the bust line in one

long, graceful sweep. The upper portion of these U generally most elaborate and most often of elegant lace over some

bright color. Velvet, ribbon and lace of every kind, as well as fine hand embroid- ery, In one or In many colors are used to decorate them,

Ofie corgi pink Bilk brocade had a row of Alaska sable fur all around the skirt and up the front. Between the two fines of fur In front there was a full shirred panel of.white china crapa. A sash of the came reached from under the arms and tied la a loose knot and hung nearly to the floor at the left side, with a heavy knotted fringe to inatob.

Home tea gowns have high collars. Oth- ers have the front open V shape. It is difficult to say which is the handsomest. I think It would depend more on the wearer.

Xnere is one pretty style of nmshmg »£f a tea sown around the neck that nev- er seems to grow stale, and that is the swan’s down band. It is soft and delicate and sets off a young face beautifully, while It softens and tones down an older one. There are a few with high ruffs made very fall of silk mull edged with narrow batter colored lace. This shows well against the white, pink or pole blue of the ruff, and they may be of any one of these or of black with spangled edges. These, however, do not seem to be quite so well liked as the more elegant swan’s down or all lace trimming.

Ribbons are among the favorite articles of ornamentation, and bow- -nd long, Boating ends will be seen where, particularly on tea gowns other home and Indoor gowns of ceremony. The preferred '.ribbon for snch use is double satin face with a heavy cord at the edge.

Aside from tea gowbs, there are many other loose End comfortable house dresses worthy of special mention. There are

kimonos, whore enough of Japanese ef- fect is retained to give a gown its char- acter and not enough to hamper the movement. These are-pretty. There are

othgra made of plain or printed cash- mere or some one of the soft wools.

I should have said in connection with the imported gowns that they are of bro- caded or embroidered Bilk, satin or velvet and with aC their trimming of the most expensive kind. The house gowns copy them clogely In style and general design, but are made In this country and of cheaper goods, but the gowns themselves are little less pretty. The empire and French waist effects, the yoke and the Brincess shape are all used as models for rorm. J nere are tome very uandswme brocaded wools in self colors. These trim- med with lace and ribbons give almost ns good an effect as the others. Then

j? there are others where the gown is of the smooth farmer satin. This Is very dura- ble and useful and when in colors takes trimming Quite as well as real satin. Many like it better. It is produced in all the colorings.

For inexpensive house gowns, especial- ly for morning, we have chinchilla cloth. This comes In rml, pink, blue an'd heiio-

Is ’prettily trimmed wltr; velvet eonars,

cuffs, pockets and yokes, while ribbon bows and lace over the yokes or other

parts are often put for added effect. There are dainty Scotch flaunts, which make the neatest and nicest of morning gowns for young women, and old ones,

too, and flannelette is offered in such a

variety of designs and color that many persons buy it. It is cheap and very pret- ty until it is laundered. That takes away all its beauty.

Eider down flannel is the coziest, soft- est and by all odds the warmest and best of ail the materials for early morning wear. This is produced in so many weights, degrees of fineness and colors that I despair of telling of them. They are usually made with half fitting back and loose front, with thick silk cord and tassels to match or ribbon half belts. Velvet collars and other accessories gen- erally are added to these, but if one

wants to be particularly comfortable in one of these let her have a swan’s down of fur boa sewed arpund the neck. Beru- hardt knows what she is doing when she buries her face in a fluffy mass.

There Is a small movement on foot to make black silk undergarments fashiona- ble, and we find a few black china silk chemises, drawers and nightgowns. Pet- ticoats we have had a long time. But, aside from the contingent of worshipers of new idols, these black undergarments find few adherents. White Is so much cleaner looking.

I know one pretty Igdy who took such a great fancy for black silk underwear that she even had black silk sheets, but she soon grew tired of it all. This was sis or seven years ago. Perhaps the fashion for black underclothes will suc-

ceed this time. Among the handsome new dresses for

dinner, reception and visiting are three really very fine ones.

One is of ashes of roses peau de gant silk. The skirt and waist are both plain, but overlaid with cream colored renais- sance lace In form of a flounce at the bot- tom of the skirt and a vest in front. There is a narrow belt of dark gray vel- vet. The collar Is of velvet overlaid with lace and has a full ruffle at the upper edge. The sleeves arc straight and tight and end at the bottom with chatelaine cuffs of velvet covered with lace. This gown is peculiarly refined and elegant.

Another and rather more striking gown was of automobile red corded taffeta. The upper part of the waist was overlaid with a slender design in white lace ap- plique. Around tho bottom of the skirt were six narrow ruffles of black silk mus- lin edged wiffi black satin ribbon. There

! was an overdress In pinafore shape of black silk muslin wrought with black, green and iridescent spangles In Persian design. The sleeves were covered with

i it also. The whole gown at a short dis-

j tance had a sort of coppery color. It , waa very handsome and not so glaring as

| one might think, the black toning it

j down. The belt was black and the ruffles I to the sleeves. j All lace dresses are to be much in evi-

dence. One design had a canary colored underslip of silk and a fringed sash and

| collar of the same. The whole outer ! dress was of white net with applique of

j heavier lace upon it in irregular design. Across the front breadth was a narrow lace flounce and another to simulate a tunic.

I The waist had a yoke of heavily ap- | plied lace. Tho vest was gathered and

| had ft lighter design. The sleeves were I gathered- The sash consisted of one width of soft taffeta with a deep knotted

1 fringe. Fringe of all kindtris “In.” Fringe is used to trim almost every-

j thing, "but Its most particular mission

j seem* to be to garnish skirts. It looks | almost ridiculous to see a handsome dress l with one or two rows of “minty” little i Tom Thumb fringe sewed around the | bottom. Some t>f the gowns have a com-

piste overdress of the knotted heading, j often in different styles of knotting.

IMilntja, meviuot) Travel, “Elevators are terrible sudden, but

they save a power of climbin,” exclaim- ed the good woman from the country as soon as she had recovered breath after her first ride In an elevator. The miles of “climbin" saved seem more impres- sive if one considers the distance trav- ersed by the elevator cars iu one day in a single building in New York. The towering office building on Park row hns ten elevators, each shaft being £80 feet high. It takes minutes on an aver- age for the cars to go up or down, and they run all day, with brief intervals of waiting top and bottom. At this rate it Is computed that the elevator ears cover nearly 100 miles a day. The num- ber of passengers carried on each trip would rnn the total number of miles

j of walking saved by the use of the ele- vators in one day into many times a hundred miles—New York Press.

| --.rv.MmJ,r-pl.

OoM lour SPW" Out.

Sixteen ounces of gold arc suftieion* to

gild a wire that would eneitA the earth.

--;-5- Ol-fC Wt LGO ME U "t) tW E Y.

How a Yvnns Womim Carried Deca- tni's Greeting to tbe Admiral.

The city ot Decatur, Ills,, adopted a

Corel method ot assuring Admiral Dewey that its dtlrena were anxious to do him honor. Realising that it was improbable that the admiral could be secured aa a

guest, Decatur determined that If the he- ro would not ootne to them they would

po to tbe hero. While ot course It was

Impossible for the whole city to rush to New York, there yet remained one course

open. This \yas to send a proxy, so a

proxy was sent- Miss Lillian Irwin, an attractive young

boman, was the person chosen as Decs-

IRWIN.

fur’s commissioner of welcome. When she started for New York, she carried with her an address signed by the city officials on behalf of the 27,000 Inhabit- ants of the city. The address begaD as follows:

“Loving Greeting: Inspired by the memory of that gallant naval hero whose name it bears, the Inland city of Decatur, ■

In the center of the Prairie State of Il- linois, yields to none in her admiration of the matchless achievements of Ameri- can seamen on all the waters of the globe. For them today these memories, this loving admiration, have been crystal- lized into the single name of Dewey.”

Then follow 000 words of praise of the admiral.

Miss Irwin found the admiral in New 'S’ork, delivered her message and then went back to Decatur a very proud young womun. _

KRUGER A PREACHER.

al A president who can preach f Oom Paul Sometimes ;LS we]i ^ gov- ern and pray as

| Oeenpies a Pnlpit well as fight Is I something of a I la Pretoria. novelty. But 1 _* Oom Paul is m such a presi- dent. It is well known that, like all Boers, be is a deeply religious man, but that he often goes into the pulpit and ex-

pounds the Bible for the benefit of his good burghers is equally true.

Until recent years it was quite the usu- al thing for President Kruger to go on

Sunday morning to the little'Dutch Re- formed church opposite his residence in Pretoria and Mount to the pulpit. Of late years, however, these occasions have been infrequent, but even now he some- times turns preacher.

When it is known that Kruger is to

preach, the little church is always well filled, for Oom Paul often seizes the occasion to mix doctrine with politics and j thunder out denunciations of the Roo- j

PRESIDENT KRUGER IN TUB PULPIT, ineks. This is the pet epithet for the British. Rooinek, it may be mentioned, means literally “redneck” and is the nickname the Boers applied to the Eng- lish because they had noticed that when a Briton was angry his neck grew red. President Kruger’s discourses are liber- ally sprinkled, as are his everyday con-

versations, with Biblical quotations. He can prove by any chapter in the good book that the Lord is always on the side of the Boer.

It is interesting to note, in connection with Kruger’s preaching, that Joseph Chamberlain taught a Sunday school ciass for a long time and today is some- times referred to by Englishmen as “the beh. red of Birmingham."

“Blues” the Common Fate of All. “If we call the -roll of the groat teach-

ers of this generation we discern that not one but has his hours of depression when his reform has seamed failure, and, weary of strife, he has asked God to take away his life,” writes Rev. Newell Dwight IIl&sls, D.D., of “An Outlook upon the Victory of Optimism,” In the Octo- ber "Ladles' Home Journal.” "Carlyle enters into gloom saying T shall die leav- ing no man the better for the living.’ Spencer, too, in the saddest pieces of writing our generation has seen, affirm- ed that he had failed to influence his gen- eration, Since a philosopher has done lit- tle for a man who simply shows him what is right; while Ruskin, like Elijah, bitterly and passionately prays for the end of his career.- But in retrospect we

now see that in his depressed hour the prophet stood in a golden haze of glory that veiled the future fame and victory. So far from forgetting Turner, England has consecrated the ndblest room In her

gallery to that man who was the groat master of orchestral effects in color. If the sense of failure once choked Buskin’s heart, now we see all economic teachers are writing their philosophy under the influence of his Christian spirit. If Car- lyle and Spencer once felt that they looked out upon wild tracks of savagery, Ignorance and vice, it Is given us to see afar off, like some nebula Just swinging into sight, the vision of a new era for man; an era of wisdom and justice and love.”

Austrian Aboralgtnos. At the close of the last century there

wore supposed to be 1,000,000 aborigines in There are now fewer than among them are still eome

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in Woman’s World. Company manners, says the New Or-

leans »imes-Democrat,” are labelled and laid away for finically nice conditions, which come to us from time to time—

whenevr, in fact, we meet new people upon whom we deem It, by hearsay, worth while making an Impression.' If not too stilted, our company man-

ners should be taken with us on nur

summer trips to the country, although there bo not a prospect of making new

acquaintances of an especially—um—solid sort.

Cultivation of these, our best manners, should begin in the home, and care should be taken to exercise them daily, especially at such times when the members of tho family can witness the effect. Some per- sons who consider themselves well bred j and can authenticate the origin of every deed of courtesy from its historic begin- ning, for fear of wearing away their stock of gentility and their fetching graces, lay them away in a napkin, where they rust from disuse and become misfits finally. Getting the value of one’s fine Instincts is one of the most important deductions one can make, therfe Is no risk and an Inevitable gain. The gracious speech, the unselfish deed, are better prompted in the home by some loving eye to whom your comings in and goings out are a deal of interest.

But you, perhaps, underestimating yourself, put on a boorish front, treat the expressions of the one who cares as :

pathos and her ministrations as folly; not j thinking well of yourself you show your worser side and feel honestly willing to !

abide by the impression you leave. Hus-

bands very often disparage their quali- ties to the point of being downright un-

bearable as a companion for dinner, let ;

alone a life-long lessee of home prlvl- leees. Girls let themselves run down un- ; til their laces lose their glow for the ]' love-offerings of home, and, like the gar- risli sunflowers, turn outward to beam.

I don't know' of what metal mothers and

grandmothers are made, unless It Is the

Narcissus gold, for they are all so self- appreciative that they risk the wear and tear of their good manners and gentle phrases at all hours most recklessly; but it must be confessed that there are few

Instances on record of our families when constant usage affected them in the least. I Those who must claim disruption of all i

tenets affecting Lares and Penates !

through the feminine mainstay should ae- ! knowledge —e aristocratic, but morally j uncomfortable, family ghost.

But. as to company manners. With what !

your heart dictates as the most refined conduct to be responsible for, a little In-

cident which occurred at Pigeon Cove re-

cently will prove a contrast. A woman who considers hersejf gently

born and bred was invited to be one of a

house party at that delightful hamlet. It

is unnecessary to discredit any t.'ly by Stating her place of residence, tar she Is

a reproach to any of them. She nr- ] rived with her daughter, and was shown j to. a large room oveflooking the Atlantic !

Ocean. The domestic then asked whether she could perform any service for the La- !

dies, when madamo, with raised prows, | said: ‘T perceive that there are two beds. ;

Surely I am not expected t'o occupy a | room with my daughter?”

The maid answered that she had been ; •told to make the ladies comfortable in j the blue room.

“There musk be some mistake,” madams | remarked languidly. “Ask Mrs. Cove to :

come here.” Mrs. Oove was chatting with other !

guests on the porch when the summons i

came through the isomewhat frightened maid. With a smile she mounted the

stairs, nek countenancing the absurd story of her servant; there was some mistake, of coitrse.

"You surely bo not v'ish my daughter and me to sleep In the same room, Mrs.

Cove?” said madame. “I had thought such a plan would r.oit

be disagreeable,” ansrvered the hostess. !

“We have a very delightful man down j from Boston overnight, whom we had

not expected until other guests had, lofL,

and I have been obliged to give him. the

room eonencting with this. I hope^ you

will not be inconvenienced for this night,

and tomorrow we will have less con- | traded quarters—though, as you see. tho j room is spacious, and I have no hesitancy

in asking you to share a room with your

own daughter.” One would think the incident, which had

already consumed too much time, would ... here. But madame's nostrils

quivered like those of the traditional

Ukraine horse, and she refused to take

the chair proffered hy the necessarily de-

cided hostess. _

“My daughter and I have never occu-

pied a room itogethfer.” said, madame,

coldly ‘’and I should decidedly prefer not

«o do so now. I should have postponed, my visit to you till you could acoommo-

diate us properly, had I known that your

houiso Is now too Cull. 1 am sure that the

Boston gentleman will he glad to oblige

mo by giving me hl's room, and you can

put Mm in with some other men in the

bachelor quarters, I know your house so

well, my dear, 'that I am sure It will

'fltrdt'ch to unknown limits. Please use

your .accustomed tadt In this matter, and

<ais soon, as possible." The bos#®* Wad met all ..sorts and con-

ditions of pediple in her cosmopolitan ca-

reer, butt she bad never received orders

before from, a guest under her roof. She

Butm-omwed 'her spirit of tolerance, and,

with apparent inex-citaibillty, left the

room. Astonished at her own- calmness,

Bhe gave orders 'to remove the luggage of

the Bos-tonese Into 'her son’s chamber,

pending that young gentleman to a room

over the stable. Madame won her way, Jt would seem,

but she baa rescinded a heretofore stand-

ing invitation to visit at 'that particular summer house in Pigeon Cove.

• *

It seems to me Ithalt the up-to-dateness on -which so many women pride them-

selves is only another term- for unrest, comments one of our sex.

The simple -truths, the genuine hospital- ity of certain htom-ea I know and to which the talbel “out of style" has been so long atlfaichdd 'that It la never thought about or ha* come ‘to be regarded as on -honor- able badge, bring a peace and refreshment ■to ail entering them, such as no heights of eltyle and ostentation of HVing eou.d :

possibly roach. Our great crying need now, as It has

ever been,' Is' for truer homes, home* whose quietness and retlffu-lness shall re- <

store u» for the -battle, and give us new :

strength and Inspiration. She who makiB i

.11, -or

series of ben off t dubs. bJo charity that

any woman ever undertook will make ade- quate excuse, for inefficiency as head of 'her household, or as 'helpmate, could she only 'be persuaded of the fact!

• . •

There Is sound logic underlying the phi-. lGsopliy of optimism; nothing can be

accomplished without hope, which is the foundation of success and Inseparable from ths optimistic view, says the “Woman’s Home Companion.” It Is In- stinct which makes us turn toward the sun, love gaiety and light and Joy. The great workers, the men who have headed vast changes, were cheerful men, loving their Joke, full of mellowness and bub- bling over with good humor. They had their uncertain moments, their fits of de- pression and despair, but the Indomitable spirit conquered, and courage and hope were never far distant. Our capacity for Joy is far greater than for pain. Nothing Is so easily forgotten as pain, nothing so

long treasured as the remembrance of a

supremely happy moment. The morality of optimism lies in Its energising touch. It gives us courage, it sweetens toil and makes every effort seem light compared to the goal lying beyond.

• •

The charm of yachting rests very large- ly upon its uncertainty. So elusive are the elements of air and water that from the moment when she is set afloat until she Is hauled out for repairs a vessel Is never at rest. The sea is forever seeking to force an entrance Into her from below and the winds of heaven are ever ready to snap her spars and rend her canvas overhead. It is largely luck if, when she Is first set afloat, she settles nearly enough to her estimated water-line to snrisfv thft idPHS of her rieslsrner. nnrl

nothing but the keenest watchfulness can

keep her up to a perfect standard of ef- fectiveness when she is called upon to en-

dure the complicated strain of a sailing match in a smart breeze, says “Urpin- cott’s Magazine.” If any one questions the difficulties of

such navigation, let him take the family umbrella and try to make it pull or push him across the lawn against the wind. This is precisely the problem that con-

fronts the yachtsman, save only that in

place of the umbrella he has to manage a towering structure of bellying canvas held aloft a hundred and more feet by slender spars and a network of cordage every fathom of which must be under absolute control if the beautiful—almost sentient-creature of canvas, wire and steel is to acquit herself with credit.

* * *

“Keep your vitality, above the negative condition and you will never know dis- ease of any kind,” writes E. B. Warman in the October “Ladies’ Home Journal.” “No disease can exist where there is an

abundance of pure blood. To get the nec-

essary amount, eat nutritious food; to cir- culate it perfectly, take proper exercise; to purify it, get fresh air and sunlight. If a perfectly healthy condition of the skin exists and an even temperature of the surfaacc of the body is maintained it is impossible to catch cold. Cold water baths taken every day will do much to- ward producing the former; proper food and exercise, the latter. Nature giyes you an alarm in the first chilly feeling. Heed it at once or pay-the penalty. Take a brisk walk or run. breathe deeply and

keep the mouth closed. If you are so

situated that you can do neither, as in a church, lecture room, street or steam car, breathe deeply, rapidly and noise- lessly until you are satisfied that your body has passed from a negative to a

positive condition.” *

* *

Lack of application is the main reason

for half of womankind’s shortcomings. It doesn’t matter whether it is the resolu- tion to put the baby to bed at 5:30 every lay or the determination to keep one’s bands and nails pretty—unless the wom-

an is a real genius and an entirely out af the ordinary mortal her plans and sood intentions go by fits and starts and finally don’t get in working order at all.

Beautifying need, not necessarily con-

sume much of one’s time. When it gets to playing leading role in this moving panorama of existence, then it is not a

desirable ambition, but a bother. Jf one

will only got into the habit of following certain rules—eating what is. good for me, bathing regularly and taking out- 3oor exercise—about sixteen-seven teenths 3f the battle will be won. This spasmod- ic way of looking after one’s hair or

jhe's finger nails isn’t worth tlje time t takes to tell it. The finger nails can

>e made beautiful and dainty only by constant attention. Ten minutes every

morning is worth a deal more than two

flours of gouging and snipping and fuss- ing every week or so:.

♦ *

Kentucky club women have undertaken crusade against slang. The federation

>f that State has prepared a petition that is to be sent to school principals- and :eachers, asking their co-operation with :he council of the club presidents to se-

cure a more careful use of English. The petition further declares that the great l imount of ungrammatical and poor | English and slang so constantly heard In

:he home, the school room and on the jtreet is an offense to the ear that should lot exist. The petition might have gone

■till further and spoken of the torture to

sensitive ears of flat or shrill, unmodu- ated voices rolling out careless, slovenly speech. In which syllables are cut out, mil the sound of honest, necessary letters willfully Ignored. The possibilities of the

speaking voice are yet only half under- stood. There Is still hope, however, that

parents will one day see the Importance >f spending much time on the cultivation >f the conversational voices of their sons

ud doughters. * • •

The manta for solving riddles ts In-

herent in the human breast. The boy who vainly studies Euclid Is only the fore- runner of one of these elderly men who

nay be seen any day In the remote car-

ters of their clulbs, bending their reverend md often stately heads in futile attempts o solve magazine acrostics. Naturally, wherever guessing ts concerned, the Vmerican Is to the fore, an English maga- :ine asserts. "T g\jess” explains his at- itude; and the latest fashionable device, o make people In America "keep on

messing" Is distinctly original. There.

startling innovation. The hostess records the answers of the guests in a book, and the person who solves most riddles cor-

rectly is awarded a prize—as a consola- tion^ I presume, for dyspepsia.

Although this particular -form of enter- tainment is a novelty, those who protest against guessing as a horror, should re-

member that the idea of it as a means of amusement is no new thing, and that to some minds It affords real delight. People who can remember social life in the later sixties tell us of the great popularity that riddles had in those days, and I am afraid that in t'he spelling bees which were so much the rage afterwards,, the hard words were often little more than a trial of con- jecture.

* * •

Bad habits of children give not a little uneasiness to the mother, but if not ac- centuated by continual reminder they of- ten correct themselves. A girl, perhaps, has grown too fast and is not quite erect; continual directions, however, to straighten up and to throw back her shoi- ders never yet have been known to cor- rect the awkward tendency, but rather to increase it. And so the child in endeavor- ing to throw her shoulder back throws her stomach forward, the figure and pose being then made infinitely worse. A healthy degree of pride will straighten her when she gets a little older and attains to the age of corsets, when the needed support will be supplied. In the case of a

boy who squints his eyes or makes faces, seemingly without knowledge of the fact, a doctor should be consulted. The rem-

edy is never found in continual correct- ing, as this will merely make the child so self-conscious that the fault—if fault it be—is increased. Awkwardness in a child is often much be&ter for letting alone, the child being made sensitive in the extreme by a continual reminder of his deficiencies.

• *

A professor in one of the many medical :

colleges of this city holds that there Is i no need of buying and swallowing adver- tised tonics, because they accomplish no

I more than a judiciously selected diet will,

| says the Chicago “Chronicle.” The pro- fessor says that spinach is richer In Iron, which Is the basis of most tonics, than

: even the yolk of an egg, while the latter i contains more than beef. The ordinary i dish of spinach and poached egg is a j tonic as potent as one in which iron ! forms a part, without the harmful ef- j feet of other ingredients that enter into ! the medicinal compound. Plants imbibe iron, and it is through them that we

should absorb it into our system. The mineral is present largely in apples, len- tils, strawberries, white beans, peas, po- tatoes and most of the red fruits and vegetables.

Stewed black currants, if taken dally in their season, will cure anaema that has become chronic. It is the experience of mariners that while lime juice is a pallia- tive of scurvy, potatoes are a specific. Nansen in his voyage on the Fram had no occasion to resort to the medicine chest. The concentrated form of all the fruits and vegetables that his men.-were accustomed to eat in Norway' was worth a shipload of drugs. It is the first in- stance on record of the escape of Arctio explorers confined on shipboard from the ravages of scurvy and it was due entirely to the tonic effect of the food supplied.

* »

The dainty girl, according to the Phila- delphia “‘Record,” has these characteris- tics:— *

She does not economize on laundry for the sake of wearing a gold watch.

She does not find it necessary to bring out a lot of company toilet Implements and display' them on her dressing table when a visitor is coming.

She does .not wear a pair of silk stock- ings with “bargain” shoes, or a brocade gown with a gingham underskirt.

She makes her undergarments from fine cotton and trims them with simple frills of the material, or with an occasional bit of honest crochet edging by her own

fingers. She wears boots that are honestly- made

from solid leather, and never in the ex-

treme of fashion. She has dainty skirts In summer of

linen or inexpensive pongee, trimmed again with ruffles of the same, that give as excellent a “stand off” effect as em-

broidery, at a third of the cost. She has winter gowns of serge or cash-

more, with flannel shirt waists for every day. a warm beaver coat, brown, blue or black, and a neat hat. In the summer she revels In cotton “things” In-

expensive and always pretty. She hasn’t a single organdie or lawn

cause, with her slender purse, the color could not he silk, and she knows the tawdry effect of cheap imitations; on the contrary, she has pletty of pretty mus-

lins, trimmed with ruffles or narrowest

Valenciennes, and several white lawns, with sashes of the same material.

She does not despise the India print for mornings with white collar and cuffs, white belt and four-in-hand.

She has also crash and duck skirts and plenty of gingham shirt waists.

She Is careful to have everything she wears scrupulously clean and whole, there are no ragged Khams to disguise, and she is not struck dumb with terror, as some

more smartly gowned girls we may have seen, by an Invitation to remain overnight and share an Impending gayety and the room of her girl hostess.

• • •

People are going about this year with eitra covers to their watches, cases which show the face and appear to be made of

celluloid. They cost only a trifle, and prevent the weather Influencing the

works, a constant difficulty. What with

the differences of time and climate, travel- ]

ing clocks and watches are often a source I of discomfort rather than comfort. A very useful contrivance for hanging upon the I door Is a sort of curtain which covers the gowhs and takes up little room; it Is cer-

tainly a great boon. The washing bags

WILL COUNT HAWAIIAN5. Editor Who Is Special Censa%-Asea4

For Oub Sew Territory. Mr. Alatau X. Atkinson, who |g going

to count noses in the Hawaiian Islands for Uncle Sam, has undertaken a job ot no mean proportions. His official title le special agent of the census for Ha- waii. He is a good deal of a cosmopo- lite, although at heart he is thoroughly American.

Mr. Atkinson was born in Siberia of English- parentage. His father was X-

ALATAU T. ATKINBOIT. W. Atkinson, an artist and traveler, who wrote “Oriental and Western Siberia” 1

and •’The Upper and Lower Amoor,” :

which for many years were standard works on th» subjects of which they treated. His mother, too, was an author. She wrote “Tartar Tents and Their In- habitants,” a charming account of the do- mestic and family life of the Tartars.

Mr. Atkinson wont to Hawaii in 1863 and was for a number of years principal of St. Albans college and later of the Fort Street government school, then per- haps the leading public school in the is- lands. From 1880 to 1887 he was editor of the Hawaiian Gazette. This was dur- j tog the perigd leading up to the revolu- tion of 1887, which oulminated in the j new constitution of that year.

From 1887 to 1896 he was inspector ■

general of schools, and it was during his j administration of the office that English ! was fully substituted for Hawaiian as j the medium of Instruction in all the gov- I ernment schools, a measure that has been of great benefit in the process of Ameri- canizing Hawaii. He was superintend- ent of the census In 1896 and a member of the legislature In 1898. Since 1897 he has been editor of the Hawaiian Star.

WORLD’S FAIR WAIF.

I He Is Now the

Pride of His

Foster Parents.

! William Por- ! ace Borer, aged 6, has the dis-

■ tinction of be- ing theonly real World’s fair boyinthecoun-

, try. This is how it happened: At

the time of the Columbian exposition a creche was Instituted on the grounds, where daily hundreds of parents left their babies from morn till night on pay- ment of a small fee.

It was anticipated that many unprinci- pled parents, desiring to get rid of their little ones, would take advantage of this opportunity, and the administration made arrangements with the Children’s Home and Aid society of Chicago to receive and care for all children that might be so

abandoned. But of 10,002 tots placed in the day

nursery during 1803 only one remained uncalled for, a baby boy weighing scarce-

ly six pounds and judged to be about 0

!

* j

I

WIU.IAM OOKACa

weeks old, with the most doubtful chances of ever adding another seven j days to his tender ape.

The case wa$ mentioned in the papers and brought a large number of applica- tions for the child, among them one from Mrs. W. It. Boyer, whose husband had Full charge of the Illinois Institution For the Education of the Blind at Jacksou- i-iile, Ills.

Mr. and Mrs. uvjw were allowed to adopt the child. He has grown up into

healthy, active and precocious young- ster- He is extremely handsome, and his Foster parents think the world of him. Che accompanying picture of the World’s Fair waif was taken the other day just is he had conw from the barber’s, where ie had sacrificed the curls which had 1

Jeen his bane and his foster mother's >ride, _

Tortured Him. There is a retired organ grinder in \

Louisville who is both clever and rich. ] doing unable to collect three months’ l rent on a house he owned, he took his 1

irgan there and played it steadily in ] ront of the house till the tenant, assisted s

>y his sympathetic suffering neighbors, -1 'aised the money and bought off the or- 1

;an grinding landlord with the rent. T "

s

wore cnageron. "I see,” said the tall member of the r

lillionaires’ club, “that there are noble- t len going around disguised as tramps.” f “That may be,” assented the member f

nth marriageable daughters, “but what ? wish to look out for is tramps going t

round disguised as lioblerne□.’’—Chicago Jews.

-—

I I

of It Will Be <60 f

Counti-r—To

O^yQVoZ o S; j Chicago’s new postoffice, the corner-

stone for which President McKinley laid the other duy, is to be the finest building of the kind in the country. Chicago de- serves it. The city of rs^dd growth haa seldom had a postofflee building large enough for its uses. On brief occasions the city has been satisfied with its postal facilities, but the city has either out- grown these structures or they hare been destroyed by fire.

But the new postofflee promises to be big enough to accommodate all the postal business that Chicago will have for many years to come.

The site is in the heart of the business district, where skyscrapers tower on ev- ery hand. It is the site on which stood the old postofflee, which was tom down to make way for the new structure. The old building was regarded as unsafe, and it was said that it was gradually sinking into the mud, yet it was necessary to us* dynamite in clearing away the old foun- dations.

The architect. In designing a building to cover a lot 396 by 321 and hemmed in by lofty buildings, has successfully solv- ed a difficult problem. He has planned • building which will not be obscured or overshadowed by its big neighbors and which will bo a relief to th* architecture of Chicago’s business district

The basement and the two lower'floors of the building will be used entirely for postofflee purposes and will cover the en- tire lot. Above these the structure will be built in the shape of a cross. In this form the structure will rise eight stories.

Above the main roof there will be eight additional stories, Inclosed In a dome 100 feet in diameter. The cross construction will permit all of the rooms to have out- side light and give the architect more

scope for external effects, which would have been impossible with an edifice built up flush with the sidewalk. The building will be the highest offlen

building in Chicago. There are building*

FACADE OF CHICAGO’S 3TEW FOHKJmOL there with more^-storles than the new

postoffiee, but the rooms of the latter will' be so lofty that if will excel in height all the other skyscrapers.

All the hails of the budding wlli meet at the center under the dome in a great rotunda.

On the different floors it Is expected that all the government offices of the city can be comfortably housed. They are now scattered about In the various big office buildings and were thus distribnted long before the old structure was demol- ished.

A feature of the external appearance of the building will be the-massive granite columns at' the street ends of the cross

sections. Five columns will reach from the. sec-

ond floor to the roof. Each column win be five feet In diameter, and each mono- litb will weigh 84 tons. On each eorner

Of the building will be a group of statu- ary.

The receipts of the Chicago postoffiee, roughly estimated, amount to $6,000,000 a year, and of this about $31000,000 is

profit. The new structure will cost, when com-

pleted, at least $4,OOQ,0QQ. This was the estimate, but it is expected the total cost will exceed this amount.

The ground on which the structure Btaads is worth $5,000,000, so that the new budding will represent an invest- ment of about $10,000,000.

Work on the postoffiee: was begun about a year ago, and tho structure is

rapidly assuming shape. The framework Is of steel and iron, which now reaches the height of nearly eight stories. In preparing the foundation for thia

great weight $,000 piles, averaging 45 feet long and a foot thick,, were driven down to the solid substratum from 75 to

100 feet under the surface. These piles were cut off below the level

of the lake, and upon them was placed concrete. Then piers of stone were laid on it up to the love) of the basement Boor, where the actual construction be- gins.

No piers of masonry extend up through the building to support the upper stories^ not even for tho dome, the entire struc- ture being of steel.

Upon this frame and the igirders, truss- .“s and beams are to be built the massive pcanite external wails.

This Is said to be the first case in which granite is used with a steel frame.

The dome masonry begins above the 1*44 4-K/n eidniwallt

tud virtually rests y 220 feet long.

A feature of the buiidUyi •ault of the subtreasury, watch wu

nuglar, mob and fire proof and h mough* iflrer.

ent- to the Dowager Kmpress of China present consisting of two vases and two

amps, both of the famous Berlin porce- iln. It appears that this gift, owing is fragile nature, was the cause of ious trouble in Celestial official circle,, laron von Heyklng. the German Amir ador, duly delivered the ornaments to the 'sung-lt-Yamen, is order that they might e carried thence into the palace. On* f the servants, however, overwhelmed, erhaps, with the Importance of his mis- lon, let a vase fall, and In an instant he work of art lay on the ground In nousaand pieces. The terrified Mir ushcd to the Ambassador and beg* im to obtain a new vase from s quickly as might be. All the

vase could not be made in les years. The Ministers then

i Baron von Heyklng not to sn is desptch of two vases, but only* of cm*-/, a request which, of course, the Ambus-