INDIAN WOOL INDUSTRY STATISTICS AND FIFNISHING OF WOOL CARPETS YARNS

R.B.CHAVANDEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

INDIAN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

HASZ-KHAS, NEW DELHI

WOOL INDUSTRY IN INDIA

SMALL IN SIZEWIDELY SCATTEREDLOCATED IN STATES OF PUNJAB, HARYANA, RAJASTHAN, U.P., MAHARASHTRA AND GUJARAT 40% OF THE WOOLLEN UNITS ARE LOCATED IN PUNJAB, 27% IN HARYANA, 10% IN RAJASTHAN, 23% THE REST OF THE STATES A FEW OF THE LARGER UNITS ARE LOCATED IN MAHARASHTRA, PUNJAB, U.P., GUJARAT AND WEST BENGAL.

WOOL PRODUCTION IN INDIA

45 MILLION kg ESTIMATE

15-16 MILLION kg SUITABLE FOR CARPER

REST COARSE, INFERIOR, BLACK WOOL UNSUITABLE FOR USE IN CARPET MAKING.

NO PRODUCTION OF FAPPAREL WOOL

50-60 MIILION kg IMPORT

NEW ZEALAND CARPET WOOL

AUSTRALIA APPAREL WOOL

IMPORT OF WOOLEN RAGS FOR SHODDY WOOL

SHODDY WOOL USE

BLANKETS

BLAZERS

RECYCLED WOOL BLENDED FABRIC

INDIAN WOOL INDUSTRY PROFILE

TOTAL No. OF REGISTERED UNITS 675

TOTAL No. OF PERSONS EMPLOYED 12 LAKH

TOTAL IMPORT OF WOOL Rs.700 cr.

TOTAL EXPORTS 1999-2000 (EXCLUDING

HAND MADE CARPETS, RUGS, DURRIES ETC.) Rs.2110 Cr.

TOTAL IMPORT OF RAW WOOL (1999-2000) 66 m kg

TOTAL IMPORT OF WOOLLEN

AND COTTON RAGS ETC. (1999-2000) 71.6 m kg

WOOLEN INDUSTRY SECTORS

ORGANISED SECTOR:

I) COMPOSITE MILLS

II) COMBING UNITS.

III) WORSTED AND NON-WORSTED SPINNING UNITS.

IV) MACHINE MADE CARPET MANUFACTURING UNITS.

B) DECENTRALISED SECTOR:

I) HOSIERY AND KNITTING

II) POWERLOOM

III) HAND KNOTTED CARPETS, DRUGGETS AND NAMDAHS

IV) INDEPENDENT DYEING PROCESSING HOUSES.

INSTALLED CAPACITY(1999-2000)

WOOL COMBING 29.28 m. kg.  

SYNTHETIC FIBRE COMBING 3.57 m. kg.

WORSTED SPINDLES 5.88 Lakh Nos. NON-WORSTED SPINDLES 4.25 Lakh Nos.

POWERLOOM (approx. including 7228 Nos. decentralized sector)

MACHINE MADE CARPET SECTOR 8.10 lac sq. mt. 8.27 m.kg.

STATE WISE WOOL PRODUCTION mkg (1996-1997)Andhra Pradesh  1.88Arunachal Pradesh 0.06Bihar 1.23Gujarat 2.40Haryana 1.86 Himachal Pradesh 1.60 Jammu & Kashmir 5.06 Karnataka 5.00Madhya Pradesh 0.78 Maharashtra 1.56 Punjab 1.40 Rajasthan 18.00 Sikkim 0.04 Tamil Nadu 0.73 Uttar Pradesh 2.03 West Bengal 0.63 Total 44.26

INDIAN CARPETS

RENOWNED THE WORLD OVER

THEIR EXQUISITE DESIGNS,

SUBTLE ELEGANCE,

ATTRACTIVE COLORS

WORKMANSHIP.

SUBSTANTIAL CARPET EXPORTS PROMINENT IN THE INTERNATIONAL CARPET MAP.

NATURAL COLOURS

'MADDER'  ROOT PROVIDES THE WHOLE RANGE OF PINKS AND REDS

GREEN FROM THE 'GRASS'

BROWN FROM THE 'KIKER' TREE.

BLUE FROM INDIGO

BLACK FROM HARADA

ALL TYPES OF NATURAL DYES ARE USED.

MATERIAL

WOOL HAS BEEN THE BASIC MATERIAL,

SILK IS ALSO COMMONLY USED ,

TO A LESSER DEGREE COTTON AND STAPLE/SYNTHETIC MATERIALS.

DESIGNINGTHE USUAL PROCEDURE ADOPTED BY THE WEAVER IS TO DRAW HIS DESIGNS AND TRANSFER THEM TO GRAPH PAPER ON WHICH EACH SQUARE REPRESENTS A SINGLE KNOT.

THEN THE PAPER IS DIVIDED INTO VARYING PARTS DEPENDING ON WHETHER THE PATTERN IS INTENDED FOR THE CENTER MEDALLION OR FOR A PART OF A REPEATED PATTERN.

THESE SHEETS OF PAPER ARE THEN PASSED ON TO THE KNOTTING WORKSHOP.

THE OTHER MANNER FOLLOWED BY THE WEAVERS OF KASHMIR AND AMRITSAR IS THE 'TALIM',

WHERE A CODED COLOR CHART INDICATES THE NUMBER OF KNOTS TO BE WOVEN IN THEIR RESPECTIVE COLORS.

THE MASTER-WEAVER READS ALOUD FROM IT AND THE WEAVERS FOLLOWS HIS DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY..

WEAVING

ONE OF THE MOST COMMONLY USED LOOM IN INDIA IS THE ROLLER-BEAM LOOM.

THE SIMPLEST OF THESE LOOMS HAS TWO HORIZONTAL WOODEN BEANS BETWEEN WHICH THE WRAP THREADS ARE STRETCHED,

THE ONE BEAM IN FRONT OF THE WEAVER, THE OTHER IS BEHIND THE FIRST.

AS THE KNOTTING PROCEEDS,

THE CARPET IS ROLLED TO THE BACK OF THE LOOM.

THE WEAVER BEGINS BY WEAVING A SELVEDGE AND SEVERAL SHOOTS OF WEFT ARE PASSED TO FORM A NARROW BAND TO SECURE THE KNOTS AT THE END OF THE CARPET.

THE INDIAN CARPET WEAVER NORMALLY USES THE ASYMMETRICAL OR PERSIAN KNOT .

FINISHING

WASHING OF A CARPET IS DONE TO BRING SHEEN AND LUSTER.

BEFORE WASHING, THE CARPET GOES THROUGH THE STAGE OF BURNING THE BACK OF THE CARPET,

RUBBING WITH WIRED BRUSH ('BERAI') TO MAKE IT EVEN.

WASHING IS DONE WITH WATER MIXED WITH SOAP, BLEACHING POWDER AND OTHER CHEMICALS.

AFTER WASHING, THE CARPET IS SUN-DRIED AND THEN SENT FOR CLIPPING.

CARPET INDUSTRYTHE  CARPET PRODUCING CENTERS IN INDIA ARE UTTAR PRADESH, JAMMU & KASHMIR, RAJASTHAN, PUNJAB, HARYANA, MADHYA PRADESH, BIHAR , HIMACHAL PRADESH, WEST BENGAL, ANDHRA PRADESH, KARNATAKA   PONDICHERRY. EMPLOYEES AROUND 2.5 MILLION PEOPLE IN  RURAL AREAS OF WHERE OTHER EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES ARE VERY REMOTE. CHILD LABOUR IS PROHIBITED BY LAW UNDER THE CHILD LABOUR PROHIBITION  ACT.

TYPES OF INDIAN CARPETS

HAND-KNOTTED WOOLEN CARPETS

TUFTED WOOLEN

HANDMADE WOOLEN DHURRIES

PURE SILK CARPETS

STAPLE/SYNTHETIC CARPETS

CHAIN-STITCH RUGS

FINISHING OF WOOL CARPET YARN

VALUE ADDITION THROUGH

IMPROVEMENT IN AESTHETICS

IMPROVEMENT IN FUNTIONAL PROPERTIES

BROAD CLASSIFICATION

PHYSICAL FINISHING

OPTICAL FINISHING

BRUSHING AND NAPPING

SOFTENING

SHEARING

COMPACTING (CALENDERING)

FINISHING OF WOOL CARPET YARN

VALUE ADDITION THROUGH

IMPROVEMENT IN AESTHETICS

IMPROVEMENT IN FUNTIONAL PROPERTIES

BROAD CLASSIFICATION

PHYSICAL FINISHING

OPTICAL FINISHING

BRUSHING AND NAPPING

SOFTENING

SHEARING

COMPACTING (CALENDERING)

CHMICAL FINISHING

FINISHES AFECTING AESTHETICS, COMFORT AND SERVICESOPTICAL FINISHES

HYDROPHILIC AND SOIL RELEASE FINISHES

SOFT AND STIFF FINISHES

WEIGHTING AGENTS

SHRINK RESISTANT FINISHES

CREASE RESISTANCE FINISHES

PROTECTIVE FINISHES

PHOTOPROTECTIVE AGENTS AND ANTIOXIDANTS

OIL AND WTER REPELLANTS

ANTISTATIC AGENTS

ANTIBACTERIAL AND INSECT RESISTANT FINISHES

FLAME RETARDANTS

FINISHING OF WOOL CARPET YARNS

YARN SCOURINGYARN SCOURING IS ESSENTIAL FOR WOOL CARPETSREMOVE FIBRE PROCESSING AIDS (LUBRICANTS) APPLIED TO ASSIST CARDING AND SPINNINGREMOVE SOIL AND DIRT DEPOSITED ON THE YARNREMOVE RESIDUAL WOOL GREASEREDUCE THE RESIDUAL IMPURITIES TO 1% IMPROPER SCOURING MAKE CARPETS PRONE TO RAPID AND EXCESSICE SOILING DURING USEPROCESS DETERGENT ALONG ITH MILD ALKALI AMMONIA

SCOURING PROCESSYARN IN HANK FORM

SCOURING AGENT: DETERGENT AND MILD ALKALI LIKE AMMONIA

600C, 30-45 MIN.

WASH, NETRALIZE, WASH.

DRY

SOLVENT SCOURING

SHORT TREAMENT WITH PERCHLOROETHYLENE IN DRY CLEANING MACHINE

USEFUL FOR YARNS SENSITIVE TO AQUEOUS SCOURING

SETTING OF CARPET YARNS

NECESSARY TO SET THE TWIST OF CARPET YARNS

CARPET MAINTAINS TEXTURE AND TUFT DEFINITION AND APPEARANCE

DURING PROCESSING

DURING USE.

AUTOCLAVE SETTING

SETTING CYCLE OF YARN IN HANK FORM

VACUUM TO MAXIMUM

STEAM AT 105/1100C FOR 2 MIN. AIR REMOVAL

VACUUM TO MAXIMUM

STEAM AT 105/1100C FOR 10 MIN. SETTING

VACUUM STEAM REMOVAL

EFFECT OF TEMPERATURE

TEMP. 105/110C IS SATISFACTORYIN CASE OF YELLOWING REDUCE TEMP TO 1020C OR EVEN 1000C INCREASE SETTING TIME AT LOWER TEMP.ALTERNATIVELY, FOR IMPROVED SETTING RAISE TEMP. TO 1200C PROVIDED YELLOWING IS NOT EXCESSIVELIGH LEVEL OF SET ACHIEVED AT 1000C FOR LONGER TIMEINCREASE IN YELLOWNESS IS LESS THAN FOR SIMILAR SET SET LEVEL OBTAINED AT HIGH TEMP. IN SHORTER TIME.

EFFECT OF pH

DURING SETTING YARN SHOULD BE NEUTRAL

IF ALKALINE (pH 9),

INCREASE IN THE DEGREE OF SET,

EXCESSIVE YELLOWING

CONSIDERABLE STRENGTH LOSS

EFFECT FO MOISTURE

MOISTURE HAS CONSIDER EFFECT ON SETTING

MOIST AND WET YARN SETS BETTER THAN DRY YARN

YELLOWING OF MOIST YARN IS ALSO LESS

STRENGTH LOSS IS HIGHER BUT DOES NOT AFFECT THE LIFE OF CARPET

UNEVEN MOISTURE CONTENT IN YARN WILL GIVE VARIABLE DEGREE OF SETTING

SETTING IN CONE FORM

AVOIDS HANK CONVERSION AND RE-WINDING

YARN IS NOT FREE TO RELAX

LESS DEGREE OF SET COMPARED TO HANK SETTING

CONES SHOULD BE PERFORATED TO ALLOW STEAM PENETRATION

SETTING IN HANK FORM

COMMON FORM FOR SETTING CARPET YARN

ALL THE YARNS MUST BE EQUALLY FREE TO RELAX AND BULK

CAN BE ENSURED BY SETTING THE HANKS IN TRAY OR

PREBULKING AND RELAXING THE HANKS e>g. SCOURING

CHEMICAL SETTING

IMMERSE THE YARN IN SODIUM BISULPHITE SOLUTIN (1%) AT pH 7, 850C , 2 MINRINSE TWICE 850C , 2 MIN. EACHTO IMPROVE SET, INCREASE SETTING TIME, BISULPHITE CONCENTRATION AND TEMP.LONG DWELL TIMES ARE NOT EASILY ACHIEVED IN SOME MACHINESIWS HAS DEVISED A SETTING PROCESS USING HIGHER CONC. OF BISULPHITE WITH DWELL TIME AS LOW AS 20 SEC.IF DYED YARN IS USED TAKE CARE TO USE DYESTUFFS FAST TO BISULPHITE

WATER SETTING

SET THE BATH WITH ACETIC ACID AT pH 5

ADD WETTING AGENT

ENTER YARN AT 300C

BRING TO BOIL

BOIL FOR 15-20 MIN.

DROP LIQUOR

RINSE

DRY

BOILING FOR LONGER TIME INCREASE SET AT THE EXPENSE OF YELLOWING

ASSESSMENT OF DEGREE OF SET

CUT 10 PIECES OF YARN EACH OF 40 mm LONG

STAPLE TO A PIECE OF FAIRLY STIFF FABRIC

PLACE THE FABRIC INSIDE THE BEAKER FILLED WITH WATER

BOIL FOR 60-90 MIN

REMOVE YARNS

DRY

MEASURE LENGTH AND TPI

INSECT RESIST FINISHWOOL AND OTHER ANIMAL FIBRES ARE PRONE TOATTACK BY CERTAIN INSECT SPECIESIN ALL CASES THE LARVAE NOT THE ADULT INSECTS CAUSE DAMAGE.THE KERATINE DIGESTING INSECTS PREFER TO LIVE AND BREED IN DARK PLACES WHERE THEY ARE MOST LIKELY TO REMAIN UNDISTURBEDTHE RISK IS INCREASED CONSIDERABLY IF THE ARTICLE IS DIRTYTYPICAL SITES OF INSECT INFESTATION OCCUR IN PARTS OF CARPETS UNDER HEAVY PIECES OF FURNITURE WHICH RE CLEANED ONLY SELDOM AND PROVIDE AREAS UNDISTURBED SEMI-DARKNESS WHERE THE INSECTS CAN BREED.

INSECT RESIST ((IR) AGENTS (MOTH PROFFING)

LARGE NUMBER OF MOTH PROOFING AGENTS ARE REPORTED IN LITERATURE

ONLY FEW ARE USED IN INDUSTRY

ORGANOCHLORINE COMPOUNDS

IMPORTANT MOTH PROOFING AGENTS ARE

APPLICATION

EASILY APPLID FROM ACIDIC AQUEOUS SOLUTION AT BOILADSORBED BY WOOL LIKE ACID DYES COMPOUNDS WITH SULPHONIC ACID GROUP ARE WATER SOLUBLEHAVE HIGH AFFINITY TO WOOL POSSESS THE FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF GOOD WOOL DYESRESISTNT TO REPEATED WASHING, LIGHT, DRYCLEANOING, RUBBING etc. ODOURLESS, COLOURLESS MITIN FF AND EULONS ARE EXPENSIVEDIELDRIN LOW COST, LACK WASH FASTNESS

APPLICATION

DURING HANK DYEING

APPLICATION DURING DYEING IS PREFERRED METHOD

TECHNICALLY SIMPLEST

FSTNESS IS BETTER

ADD THE APPROPRIATE QUANTITY (1% oww) TO DYE BATH ALONG WITH THE DYESTUFF AND OTHER AUXILIARIES

PRECAUTIONS

SOME DYEBATH AUXILIARIES MAY RETARD THE EXHAUSTION OF IR AGENTS ONTO WOOL OR MAY REDUCE THEIR EFFECTIVENESS

IR AGENT MAY DECOMPOSE IF DYEING TIME IS PROLONGED

TREATMENT AFTER DYEING WITH CATIONIC AGENT THE CONCENTRATION OF IR AGENT SHOULD BE DOUBLED IN ORDER TO COMPENSATE FOR ANTAGONISTIC EFFECT OF THE CATIONIC AGENT ON THE ANIONIC IR AGENT.

APPLICATION

DURING SCOURING

MANY IR AGENTS MAY BE APPLIED DURING CONTINUOUS SCOURING PROCESS

ADD IR AGENT AND ACID TO THE FINAL BOWL

BOTH LOOSE STOCK AND YARN IN HANK FORM MAY BE TREATED IN THIS WAY.

DURING YARN SETTING

IF YARN IS SET IN BOILING WATER, IR AGENT MAY BE ADDED TO BOILING BATH

MAINTAIN NEUTRAL OR SLIGHT ACID CONDITION

APPLICATION

ON PRINTED CARPETS

CAN BE CARRIED OUT BEFORE OR DURING PRINTING PROCESS

BEFORE PRINTING

TREATMENT DURING RAW WOOL SCOURING, DURING YARN SCOURING OR DURING WATER-SETTING OF YARN IS POSSIBLE

DURING PRINTING

ADDITION OF IR AGENT IN THE PRINT PASTE

WOOLMARK CARPETS

FOR CARPETS WITH WOOLMARK LABLE MOTHPROOFING IS MANDATORY

SHOULD CONTAIN SUFFICIENT IR AENT TO PROTECT CARPET FROM INSECT ATTACK THROUGH THEIR USEFUL LIFE.

IWS WITH AGREEMENT OF ALL MAJOR MANUFACTURERS OF IR AGENTS HAS ISSUED LISTS OF RECOMMENDED APPLICATION LEVEL (RAL’S)FOR WIDELY USED IR AGENTS AND ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION

TOXICITY

ALL CHLORINATED IR AGENTS ARE TOXIC

TO BE USED CAREFULLY

LESS TOXIC ORGANIC IR AGENTS HAVE BEEN DEVELOPED

FLAME RETARDANT TREATMENT

WOOL IS NATURALLY FLAME RETARDANT

ADDITIONAL FLAME RETARDANCY REQUIRED TO PREVENT BURNING DUE TO CIGARETTE BUTS

FLAME RETARDANCY IS IMPARTED USING

HALOGENATED ORGANIC ACIDS

ORGANOPHONATES

COMPLEX INORGANIC SALTS OF ZIRCONIUM, TITANIUM TUNGSTEN etc.

ANTI-SOIL/ANTI-STAIN FINISH

TREATMENT WITH FLUROCARBON BASED PRODUCTS (e.g. TEFLON OR SCOTCHGARD) CAN INCREASE RESISTANCE TO BOTH STAINING AND SOILING

DURABILITY OF SUCH PRODUCTS IS LIMITED

SILCONE TREATMENT INCREASES RESISTANCE TO STAINING TO WATER BASED SPILLS.