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STAY BALANCEDExperience Zagreb’s unique blend of old-world charm and youthful vibe. From its enchanting Upper Town, green parks and picturesque open-air markets, to a multitude of restaurants, cafés, theatres, museums and galleries, the City will provide you with the ideal setting to recover your balance.

The irresistibly healthful offerings at The Westin Zagreb allow you to indulge in the pure joys of deliciously wholesome food, revitalizing activities, and amazingly restful sleep.

The perfect venue in an ideal setting - what more can one ask for? Model your unforgettable experience with one of our fantastic special offers!

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION, VISIT WESTINZAGREB.COM OR WESTIN.COM/ZAGREB, CALL + 385 1 4892 058, OR SIMPLY E-MAIL US AT RESERVATIONS@WESTINZAGREB.COM

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D. F

abija

niÊ

Nakladnik/Publisher

Croatia Airlines

Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka

Bani 75b, Buzin

10 010 Zagreb, Croatia

tel. +385-1-616-00-66

faks +385-1-616-01-53

E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO

Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief

Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/

Editor-in-chief assistants

Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Dizajn/Design

Ivana IvankoviÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout

Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Rukovoditeljica marketinga/

Head of Marketing

Zlata PrpiÊ

Lektorica/Proof reader

Mirjana Miholek

Prijevod na engleski/

English translation

Lancon d.o.o.

Oglaπavanje/Advertising

Croatia Airlines

Gabrijela Lochert

tel. +385-1-616-00-17

E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion

Croatia Airlines

tel. +385-1-616-01-26

Priprema/Photolitography

Zrinski d.d., »akovec

Tisak/Print

Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278Krešimir KuËkoPredsjednik UpravePresident & CEO

D. F

abija

niÊ

Poπtovani put ni ci!

SrdaËno vas pozdravljam u naπem zrakoplovu uza æelju da vam i ovaj let s nama protekne ugodno i opuπteno. Vjerujem da Êe ugoaj u put-niËkoj kabini upotpuniti naπ putni Ëasopis, koji, kako su nam rekli mnogi od vas, rado Ëitate i nerijetko ga ponesete sa sobom. Raduje nas πto je tako… i to veÊ punih dvade-set godina…Naime, naπa Croatia ovim osamdesetim brojem obilje-æava vrijedni jubilej − 20 go-dina izlaæenja. Prvi broj kompanijskoga putnog Ëa-sopisa joπ je 1994. godine stavljen u pretince sjedala svih naπih zrakoplova. VeÊ tada bili smo svjesni da Ëasopis mnogim putnicima omoguÊuje prvi kontakt s naπom zemljom pa smo æeljeli predstaviti naπu baπtinu i prirodne ljepote, osobito onima koji prvi put dolaze u Hrvatsku, i ujedno trenutke leta uËinili πto zanimljivijima. Tako je i u ovom broju… Nedavno smo proslavili i 25 godina osnutka tvrtke (osnovana je 7. kolovoza 1989.), o Ëemu smo viπe pisali u ljetnom izdanju. Zahvaljujemo vam na Ëe-stitkama i na mnogim lijepim rijeËima koje ste nam poslali tom prigodom. U povodu tog dogaaja 7. kolovoza na letu OU 416 iz Zagreba u Frankfurt organizirali smo nagradnu igru i nagradili pet putnika s dvije karte za neko od naπih odrediπta po njihovu izboru. Takoer potkraj srpnja nagradili smo dvjema besplatnim kartama i naπu milijuntu putnicu u ovoj godini, zabiljeæenu na letu iz Pariza za Split. »esti-tamo svima i æelimo ugodan boravak u gradovima koje su odluËili posjetiti. A 25. roendan proslavljamo i izloæbom 25 godina dizajna i fotografi je u Croatia Airlinesu, postavljenom od 25. rujna do 5. listopada u zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt. Pozivamo vas da je posjetite, a meu izloæenim eksponatima, koji su obiljeæili povijest tvrtke, bit Êe i svi putni Ëasopisi poredani od prvoga do zadnjeg broja i moÊi Êete ih prelistati. Dragi putnici, joπ jedanput vam zahvaljujemo na dugogodiπnjoj vjernosti i povjerenju koje ste darovali naπoj tvrtki. Istinski se trudimo da vaπe povjerenje opravdamo, i u tome neÊemo posustati. Nadam se da Êemo joπ dugo dijeliti lijepe zajedniËke trenutke meu oblacima…

Dear passengers,

I would like to welcome you on board our aircraft and wish you a very comfortable and relaxing fl ight. I believe that this is exactly how you feel as you are leafi ng through our travel magazine. Many of you have told us that you like to read it and very often

take it with you as you leave the aircraft. We are glad that this has been the case... for all the twenty years so far…With this issue, the 80th to date, our Croatia marks a valuable jubilee − 20 years of publication. The fi rst issue of our company’s infl ight magazine was placed in seatback pockets in 1994. From the very fi rst day, we were aware that for many of our passengers the magazine would be their fi rst contact with our country, so we were eager to showcase our heritage and the beauties of nature, particularly for those who were arriving in Croatia for the fi rst time, making their fl ight as interesting as possible at the same time. This is also true of this issue...Not long ago, our company celebrated its 25th anni-versary (it was established on 7 August 1989). Our summer issue wrote more extensively on this. We would like to thank all the well-wishers who congratu-lated us on the occasion. To mark the event, on 7 Au-gust, we organised a prize draw for the passengers of OU 416 en route from Zagreb to Frankfurt, and rewarded fi ve of them with two tickets to one of our destinations of their choice. Also, towards the end of July, our millionth passenger this year, fl ying from Paris to Split, was rewarded with two free tickets. We congratulate all of them and wish them a pleasant stay in the cities they have chosen to visit.Another event organised to mark our 25th anniver-sary is the 25 Years of Design and Photography at Croatia Airlines exhibition, from 25 September to 5 October at Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts and we invite you to visit. Amongst the exhibits, all marking the company’s history, all the issues of our infl ight magazine will be arranged in order, and you will be able to leaf through them. Dear passengers, once again, I take this opportunity to thank you for the years of loyalty and trust you have placed in our company. We are working very hard to live up to your expectations and will continue to do so in the future. I am truly looking forward to sharing many pleasant moments amongst the clouds for many years to come.

Vaš,Yours faithfully,

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■ SADRÆAJ

Jesen/Autumn 2014 www.croatiaairlines.com

20 Razgovor: Iva ToliÊIVA TOLIΔ, HRVATSKA ZNANSTVENICA ME–U 40 NAJBOLJIHMladu hrvatsku znanstvenicu ugledni znanstveni Ëasopis Cell uvrstio je u generaciju buduÊnosti, a tu vrijednu titulu dobila je na temelju uspjeha u otkrivanju sloæenih staniËnih procesa. 28 MuzejiMODERNA GALERIJA, PROŠLOST I SADAŠNJOSTModerna galerija smjeπtena je u srediπtu Zagreba. S fundusom od 9800 umjetnina, najveÊa je zbirka hrvatske moderne likovne umjetnosti.42 OtociCRES, OTOK ORLOVA GNIJEZDAU Cresu moæete promatrati spektakularan let bjeloglavog supa, tumarati netaknutom πumom Tramuntane i lebdjeti nad morem u gradiÊu Lube-nice, smjeπtenome na visini vidikovca njujorπkog Empire State Buildinga. 78 BaštinaLJETNIKOVAC BUNIΔ-KABOGA, BAŠTINA IZ RUKE BAŠTINIKAZbog upornosti posljednjeg nasljednika dubro-vaËke vlastelinske obitelji Caboga, ljetnikovac je potpuno obnovljen te u novom ruhu darovan zajednici. 88 Kontinentalna HrvatskaDARUVAR, GRAD KOJI VOLI ÆIVOTVijeÊe Europe pokrenulo je 2010. godine inicijativu Udruæenje europskih termalnih gradova (EHTTA) radi oËuvanja, povezivanja i revalorizacije povije-snih europskih termalnih toplica. Hrvatsku u tom udruæenju predstavljaju Daruvarske toplice.102 MeridijaniBALI JE BALIBali je najvaænije indonezijsko turistiËko odrediπte, otkriveno joπ tridesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa. Koliko god vremena odluËili provesti na Baliju, bit Êe vam premalo. 120 Kultura življenjaKAKO ÆIVE HRVATSKI ARHITEKTIZavirite s nama u πest genijalnih domova hrvatskih arhitekata. Spoznat Êete kako na izgled ne-spojivi materijali mogu izvrsno funkcionirati za-jedno i joπ mnogo toga…134 Dizajn»UDESAN SVIJET LUTAKA, VILA I ŠUMSKIH BIΔA OD TEKSTILAHrvatska dizajnerska scena u posljednjih se ne-koliko godina razvila u lutkarskom smjeru − autori maπtovito ruËno izrauju mala neobiËna biÊa, spoj izmeu lutkica, Ëarobnjaka, vila i æivotinja…156 Poznati u zrakoplovuHAMBURŠKA KRALJICA AVANGARDE NA KRILIMA CROATIA AIRLINESARazlog posjeta koloraturne sopranistice Frauke Aulbert Hrvatskoj bio je njezin nastup na novom festivalu za suvremenu glazbu i umjetnost Novalis music+art festivalu, koji se odræao na glavnome novaljskom trgu.

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■ CONTENTS

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak This is your personal copy

20 Interview: Iva ToliÊCROATIAN SCIENTIST IVA TOLIΔ AMONGST THE BEST 40The young Croatian scientist was selected to enter the 40 under 40 list of best scientists by the renowned science magazine Cell. Her break-through fi ndings of complex cellular processes earned her ranking in the generation of the future.28 MuseumsTHE PAST AND THE PRESENT OF THE MODERN GALLERYThe Modern Gallery is at the very heart of Zagreb. Boasting holdings of 9800 exhibits, it is the largest Croatian collection of modern paintings. 42 IslandsCRES, THE ISLAND OF THE EAGLE’S NESTWatch the spectacular fl ight of the griffon vulture, roam the virgin Tramuntana forest or hover high above the sea in the townlet of Lubenice, located as high as the lookout point of New York’s Empire State Building. 78 HeritageTHE BUNIΔ-KABOGA SUMMER VILLA, HERITAGE FROM THE HANDS OF THE HEIROwing to the perseverance of the last heir of Dubrovnik’s noble Kaboga family, their summer villa has been completely restored and donated to the community in its newly refurbished and now splendid attire. 88 Inland CroatiaDARUVAR, A TOWN THAT LOVES LIFEIn 2010, the Council of Europe launched the European Historical Thermal Towns Association (E.H.T.T.A.) initiative aimed at preserving, con-necting and revaluating historical thermal towns in Europe. The Croatian representative in the Association is Daruvarske Toplice. 102 MeridiansBALI IS BALIBali has been the most popular tourist destination in Indonesia since the 1930s when it was fi rst discovered. However long you decide to stay in Bali will not be enough.120 LifestyleHOW CROATIAN ARCHITECTS LIVEJoin us in taking a sneak peek into the fabulous homes of six Croatian architects. You will come to realise that seemingly clashing materials can work really well together and much, much more...134 DesignTHE ENCHANTING WORLD OF TEXTILE DOLLS, FAIRIES AND FOREST SPIRITSOver the past several years, the Croatian design scene has moved in the direction of doll-making − their imaginative designers handcraft quirky little beings, blending dolls, wizards, fairies and animals...156 Celebrites on boardHAMBURG’S QUEEN OF THE AVANT-GARDE ON THE WINGS OF CROATIA AIRLINESThe reason for the arrival of the coloratura so-prano Frauke Aulbert in Croatia was her appear-ance at the Novalis Music+Art Festival, a new contemporary music and art festival taking place at Novalja’s main square.

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6 CROATIA AIRLINES

Piπe/By Fea VukiÊ

Fenomen infl ight magazina razvio se danas toliko da je veÊ moguÊe govoriti i o kompleksnoj tipologiji, o

pojedinim vrstama unutar kategorije. Zatim, moguÊe je govoriti o posebnim æanrovskim i semantiËkim

zakonitostima koje vladaju unutar samog medija. I, napokon, moguÊe je analizirati i pojedine primjere,

πto u ovoj prigodi i Ëinimo u povodu dvadeset godina izlaæenja infl ight magazina Croatia.

The in-fl ight magazine phenomenon has developed to such an extent that its typology has become

rather complex, so much so that one can easily embark on a discussion about different kinds within

the category. Moreover, it is also possible to speak about particular semantic or genre rules within the

medium itself. And fi nally, it is possible to analyze certain examples, which is exactly what we are doing

to commemorate the twentieth anniversary of Croatia in-fl ight magazine.

VIZUALNO - 25 godina dizajnai fotografi je u Croatia Airlinesu

VISUAL - 25 years of design and photography in Croatia Airlines

25.9 - 5.10.2014MUO, Zagreb

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CROATIA AIRLINES 7

Prema dostupnim podacima, danas u svijetu postoji oko stotinu i pedeset infl ight magazina − tiskanih medija

kojima zraËni prijevoznici komuniciraju s vlastitim putnicima i πirom publikom. Osobit je to medij − ima vrlo jasnu niπu ciljane pu-blike, kanal distribucije gotovo je besplatan, a æivot magazina dulji je od uobiËajenih, koji se prodaju u kioscima ili pretplatom. A poËelo je Ëetrdesetih godina kada tadaπnji Pan American Airlines uvodi magazin New Hori-zons kao pogodnost za putnike na njihovim redovitim linijama. Tako je poËela joπ cjelovito nenapisana povijest magazina koji æive u zraku, za trajanja leta, ali imaju i naknadni æivot, nerijetko joπ dugo u domovima putnika koji su doputovali na odrediπe, pa ih Ëuvaju kao dobar sadræaj ili neku vrstu uspomene.No, najprije zavirimo malo u proπlost. Najsta-riji infl ight magazini doista su slijedili sadræajni smisao i vizualni izgled kakav je Ëetrdesetih i pedesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa dominirao u svijetu tiskanih medija. Sadræaj je posve slijedio odrednice veÊ utemeljenog æanra life-style magazina, a grafi Ëki izgled bio je posve na tragu estetiËkih i tehniËkih moguÊnosti onoga doba. VeÊ je tad fotografi ja, najprije crnobijela a zatim i u boji, postala jedan od najvaænijih alata komunikacije s publikom. »esto se infl ight magazini dotiËu i aktualnih politiËkih, kulturnih i znanstvenih tema, ali njihov je glavni smisao promidžba putovanja, dinamiËnog æivotnog stila i multikulturnih vrijednosti koje su nuæno vezane uz fenomen dostupnih kontinentalnih i interkontinentalnih putovanja.Potkraj πezdesetih i u poËetku sedamdesetih godina infl ight magazini poËinju u sadræaju stavljati veliki naglasak na verbalne i vizualne opise odrediπta, odnosno kulturno-povije-snih i prirodnih vrijednosti pojedinih gradova i regija. Takva je orijentacija stavljena u neπto jednostavniji grafi Ëki okvir i raspored informa-cija po stranicama, pri Ëemu je tema u prvom planu, a grafi Ëki dizajn diskretan.S takvim naslijeem fenomen infl ight magazi-na proæivljava svoj zenit osamdesetih i doËe-kuje devedesete, kad se, u zoru politiËkih promjena na jugoistoku Europe, 1989., svjet-skom skupu zraËnih prijevoznika pridruæuje joπ jedan − Zagal, odnosno danaπnji Croatia Airlines, kompanija koja veÊ toËno dvadeset godina objavljuje svoj putni Ëasopis Croatia.Bilo je to, naime, posve drukËije vrijeme od ovoga danaπnjega, kad je Republika Hrvatska Ëlanica Europske unije. Tada je raspadom bivπe Jugoslavije prepoznata potreba za komuniciranjem imena novostvo-rene dræavne zajednice. Iz tog je konteksta i izveden temeljni sadræajni okvir magazina.

Gotovo da nema nekoga bitnijeg elementa kulturne povijesti ili aktualne kulture u Hrvatskoj a da nisu predstavljeni na strani-cama ovog magazina.

There is hardly any important element of Croatian history or culture which was not featured on the pages of the magazine.

Kad su objavljeni prvi brojevi magazina Croatia, u Hrvatskoj joπ traje rat. Misija ovog infl ight magazina tijekom prvih godina bila je jasno oznaËiti ime i sadræaj novostvorene dræavno-pravne cjeline, koja je dotad posto-jala samo kao konstitutivni dio πire zajednice juænoslavenskih naroda. Dakle, trebalo je po-sredovati taj novi entitet, i to predstavljanjem kulturnog identiteta i prirodnih karakteristika teritorija. Tako je planiran sadræaj prvih godi-na infl ight magazina Croatia Airlinesa. Gotovo da nema nekoga bitnijeg elementa kulturne povijesti ili aktualne kulture u Hrvatskoj a da nisu predstavljeni na stranicama ovog magazina. S godinama, tematski se okvir πirio, dakako, kako su se geografski πirile i operacije kompanije. Tako su se na stranica-ma magazina predstavljali gradovi u koje su zrakoplovi letjeli, a s vremenom i oni drugi, do

kojih se lako moglo doÊi iz odredišta pokri-venih redom letenja u suradnji s partnerskim aviokompanjama. Croatia je tako, upravo na tragu najboljih usporednih primjera, postala medij komplementaran medijima promidžbe turizma i dinamiËnoga æivotnog stila.− Komunikacijska funkcionalnost inflight magazina Croatia Airlinesa odmah postaje jasna, Ëim se prelistaju stari brojevi. »aso-pis, koji izlazi od 1994. godine, nerijetko omoguÊuje prvi kontakt putnika s naπom zemljom, pruæajuÊi im prve informacije o Hrvatskoj. Misija naπeg infl ight magazina tije-kom prvih godina bila je prenijeti, i zrakoplo-vima, ime nove dræave preko njezinih granica radi promicanja hrvatske kulture, baπtine, prirodnih ljepota i razliËitih zanimljivosti iz zemlje te, uz promidæbu Hrvatske, takoer informirati putnike i πiru javnost o odabranim

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8 CROATIA AIRLINES

struËnim temama iz zrakoplovstva i æivota kompanije. To se nije promijenilo do danas − istiËe Ksenija Ælof, veÊ 20 godina zaposlena u Croatia Airlinesu, kao voditeljica odnosa s javnoπÊu i urednica Ëasopisa Croatia. Prije toga radila je kao novinarka, reporterka, urednica i glavna urednica. Doktorirala je informacijske znanosti, a u znanstvenoj grani odnosa s javnoπÊu, prva je doktorica znanosti u Hrvatskoj. Dobitnica je nagrade PRO.PR za doprinos struci te za povezivanje struke sa znanoπÊu.− Snaga autorskog koncepta medijskog formata ovog magazina upravo je u njegovoj funkcionalnosti. Sve je u sluæbi komunikaci-je − kaže Ksenija Ælof, koja sa svojim istim timom najbliæih suradnika veÊ 20 godina kreira putni Ëasopis Croatia.Promjene unesene u meuvremenu od poËetka do danas minimalne su, ali nisu ni potrebne. Grafi Ëki je okvir magazinu veÊ u prvom broju dao urednik fotografi je Damir FabijaniÊ, s prepoznatljivo kvadratnim ka-drovima fotografi ja, a poslije se pridruæili i kompanijska dizajnerica Ivana IvankoviÊ i vanjski suradnik Nenad VujoševiÊ. Taj au-

torski tandem i danas daje peËat magazinu, iako su stranicama prodefi lirali gotovo svi istaknuti suvremeni hrvatski fotografi te vrsni autori tekstova. Ekipi se prije 15 godina pridruæila i Gabri-jela Lochert, diplomirana ekonomistica, zaduæena za oglaπavanje.− Naπi oglaπivaËi godinama nas prepoznaju kao kvalitetan medij pa je to razlog πto uvijek vlada nesmanjeno zanimanje za predstavlja-nje razliËitih proizvoda i usluga te oglaπavanje u Ëasopisu Croatia − kaæe Gabrijela Lochert, specijalistica promocije, koja je u kompaniji veÊ gotovo 20 godina, a najprije je radila kao Ëlanica kabinskog osoblja.Damir FabijaniÊ nije samo urednik fotografi je i glavni fotograf Croatia Airlinesova putnog Ëasopisa nego i autor fotografi ja u ostalim promidžbenim materijalima Croatia Airlinesa. Freelance fotograf veÊ je 27 godina. Autor je brojnih autorskih izloæbi πirom Europe i Juæne Amerike, najpoznatiji po svojoj izloæbi i knjizi-trilogiji Dubrovnik…, autor i kreator-suradnik u mnogim monografijama i tiskovinama (Ëasopis ORIS), koautor hrvatskih paviljona na EXPO 2005 i 2008, glavni kreator svjetski

priznatoga eno-gastronomskog Ëasopisa IÊe&piÊe.− Igrom sluËaja, imao sam priliku (i Ëast) biti prvi kotaËiÊ kontinuiteta putnog Ëasopisa Croatia, jer u prvom sam broju pozvan da su-djelujem kao fotograf (i neformalni art-direk-tor) − kaæe Damir FabijaniÊ. VeÊ u sljedeÊem broju stigla je Ksenija Ælof (i dandanas) glavna urednica, a u treÊem Ivana IvankoviÊ, mlada dizajnerica, izravno s fakulteta, koja je pro-fesionalno bitno unaprijedila misao vodilju postavljenu (uz ograniËenja) u prvom broju. Pravo je zadovoljstvo imati povjerenje u takve suradnike − istiËe Damir FabijaniÊ.To što postoji Ëasopis u kojem gotovo dva desetljeÊa kontinuirano djeluje isti tim, zasluæuje osobitu paænju, a izaziva i pitanje postoji li uopÊe joπ koji takav sluËaj.Formalni okvir i izraæajna sredstva magazina defi nirana su veÊ u poËetku. Naglasak na ve-likim reprodukcijama sustavno posloæenih fo-tografi ja, jednostavna tipografi ja, nekomplici-rana koloristiËka shema. Ukratko, prijateljski za korisnika, a sve kako bi se iz broja u broj, kvartalno, razvijala priËa o Hrvatskoj, njezinim ljudima, prirodi i kulturi, ali i o gradovima,

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CROATIA AIRLINES 9

ljudima i kulturama iz cijelog svijeta. Moglo bi se Ëak reÊi i ovo − putni Ëasopis Croatia dizajnom je sljednik izraæeno modernistiËke linije tradicije likovne umjetnosti dvadesetog stoljeÊa u Hrvatskoj.− U poËetku zadali smo si smjernice po naËelu manje je viπe. Postavili smo granice u vizualnom izraæavanju i tako si otvorili prostor za traæenje slobode u tim ograniËe-njima, a da opet bude prisutna neka ideja i inovativnost − napominje dizajnerica Ivana, veÊ dvadesetu godinu zaduæena za dizajn ne samo Ëasopisa, nego i cijele kompanije.Magistrirala je na Studiju dizajna pri Arhi-tektonskom fakultetu SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu u prvoj generaciji tada novoosnovanoga interfakultetskog studija. Od 1995. voditeljica je odjela kompanijskog dizajna u Croatia Air-linesu, gdje je stekla iskustvo u svim fazama implementacije kompleksnoga korporativno-ga vizualnog identiteta. Redizajnirala je zrakoplove Croatia Airlinesa 2004. godine, za πto je dobila meunarodnu nagradu ReBrand 100, a taj je redizajn proglaπen jednim od najboljih brendova za 2005. godinu. Radovi su joj redovito zastu-

pljeni u svim vaænim domaÊim izloæbama dizajna te uvrπteni u razliËite meunarodne strukovne publikacije (European Design Annual, Print, Icograda Gallery, KAK...). Do-bitnica je viπe strukovnih priznanja i nagrada.Nenad VujoπeviÊ zaduæen je za prijelom Ëasopisa.− Imamo visoke kriterije pri odabiru materijala koji ilustriraju odreene teme, a kad napokon izaberemo, trudimo se da ih tretiramo tako da dou do izraæaja i da se istakne njihova umjetniËka vrijednost. Najteæe je pronaÊi sklad tako da Ëasopis u kontinuitetu bude zanimljiv, pronaÊi optimalnu mjeru za pojedinu temu i u sve to uklopiti mnogo oglaπivaËa, koji takoer trebaju biti zadovoljni smjeπtajem i tretiranjem njihova oglasnog prostora − kaže Nenad.Iako je neupitna vizualna dosljednost Ëa-sopisa od prvog broja do danas, ipak su u meuvremenu uvedene i neke promjene, πto je i razumljivo, jer promjene u vizualnom smislu doæivio je korporacijski identitet kompanije. Posljednji redizajn korporacijskog identi-teta tvrtke, koji funkcionira i danas, unosi odreene semantiËke promjene u utvrenu

formalnu shemu. Te promjene uvode neπto kompleksniju ali joπ komunikacijski funk-cionalnu vizualnu strukturu. Jedan takav element, razvijena struktura na vertikalnoj repnoj povrπini zrakoplova Croatia Airlinesa, danas je moæda i najprepoznatljiviji element korporacijskog identiteta, u vizualnoj guævi svake zraËne luke kamo ti zrakoplovi stiæu.

Korporacijski vizualni identitet

Moglo bi se reÊi da je vizualni identitet zra-koplovne tvrtke Croatia Airlines obiljeæio je gospodarsku sliku Hrvatske tijekom proteklih Ëetvrt stoljeÊa, a bitno je prisutan u njezinom ukupnom kulturnom identitetu. Prvi poslovni potezi, prvi oglasi i prvi zrakoplovi tvrtke bili su oznaËeni grafi Ëkom shemom dva pove-zana kvadrata, formom koju je autor Boris LjubiËiÊ poslije razraivao u viπe inaËica u sklopu drugih autorskih projekata. Razvojem operacija kompanije spoznalo se da je potre-ban sustavni razvoj korporacijskog identiteta. Stoga je raspisan pozivni natjeËaj na kojem je prvoplasiran bio rad Vilima Vasate, tada profesora komunkacijskog dizajna u Essenu, inaËe dizajnera hrvatskog porijekla.

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10 CROATIA AIRLINES

Iz tog su natjeËaja proistekle komunikacijske konstante Croatia Airlinesa, koje su i danas u uporabi, znak i logotip te osnovna boja (kompanijske boje crvena, bijela, plava i siva; kompanijski font helvetica). Sredinom devedesetih na tadaπnjem interfakultetskom Studiju dizajna SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu diplomi-rala je prva generacija dizajnera u Hrvatskoj. Unutar te zajednice raspisan je natjeËaj za kreativnu osobu koja Êe razvijati Vasatin koncept i tada je odabrana dizajnerica Ivana IvankoviÊ, koja sa svojim suradnikom Nenadom VujoševiÊem do danas sustavno i dosljedno kreira korporacijski vizualni identi-tet, te uvodi Ëisti dizajn bez suviπnih detalja i ËistoÊu u vizualnom izraæavanju, posveÊujuÊi osobitu pažnju kompoziciji unutar formata.KljuËnu ulogu u komunikacijskom i medij-skom formatiranju magazina imao je fotograf Damir FabijaniÊ, uvoenjem kvadratnog ka-dra kao osnovne prepoznatljive semantiËke konstante. Ta je ideja razraivana tijekom godina koje su slijedile, a kvadrat kao se-mantiËki okvir na naslovnici zadræan je i do danas, nerijetko i na dominantnim stranicama unutar magazina. Uz to, ranih devedesetih taj

standard prezentacije uvodi se i na tiskane kalendare tvrtke, Ëime je upotpunjena opÊa slika korporacijskoga vizualnog identiteta. To je bila i danas jest posebnost Croatia Airlinesa, razraivana u kompanijskom odjelu za dizajn.U sklopu toga dugoroËnog projekta stvoreni su i razraeni svi elementi pojavnosti tvrtke: eksterijer i interijer zrakoplova, identitet in-fl ight servisa, grafi Ëko oblikovanje tiskanih sredstava promidžbe i pojedinih edicija, oblikovanje intranetskih i internetskih stra-nica i elemenata za oglaπavanje u digitalnim suËeljima. Zatim su oblikovani elementi za fi lm i videoinfl ight entertainment, elementi za komunikaciju u digitalnome i mobilnom okruæju kao i sredstva za unapreenje pro-daje te oblikovanje poslovnica.OpÊeniti je projekt razvoja korporacijskog identiteta tvrtke predstavljen na mnogim hrvatskim i meunarodnim izloæbama i ma-nifestacijama dizajna, a predstavljan je i u meunarodnim publikacijama.U komuniciranju korporativnih vrijednosti, vizualnog identiteta tvrtke, ali i nacional-nog identiteta, Ëasopis Croatia svakako je

obavio svoju vrlo veliku funkciju dosljedno razjaπnjavajuÊi πto je, gdje i kakva je Hrvat-ska. Tu dosljednost nije izgubio ni danas, iako je proπao i neke manje vizualne i komu-nikacijske promjene. Jedna od najoËitijih jest drukËije tretiranje naslova i uvodne stranice Ëlanka. Naslov je sada vrsta tipografske sli-ke koja metaforiËki evocira neku vrijednost teme. Uvodna stranica povezuje takav naslov i kljuËnu fotografi ju, pa je tako zanimanje ËitaËa pobueno veÊ i na razini uæivanja u vizualnom, joπ dok Ëitanje nije ni poËelo. No, u danaπnjem svijetu izazova za tiskane medije i sve veÊe dominacije on line sadræaja, Ëak i infl ight magazini poËinju migrirati u di-gitalna okruæja. Danas, kad je Hrvatska veÊ poznat pojam, mnogo poznatiji u odnosu na vrijeme prije dvadeset godina, moæe se zakljuËiti da je svojim vjeËno minimalnim grafi Ëkim suËeljem i infl ight magazin Croatia spreman i za novu eru. ■

According to available information, about 150 in-fl ight magazines are currently published worldwide.

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CROATIA AIRLINES 11

Airline companies use this type of media as a channel to communicate with their own passengers and the public at large. This is a special kind of magazine − its niche market is well known; its distribution channel is almost free of charge, and its lifespan is longer than the lifespan of any other publication sold at newsstands or by subscription. It all started in the 1940’s when the then Pan American Airlines launched its magazine New Horizons as a special gift for the passengers fl ying on their regular lines. That was the beginning of a yet untold story of magazines which live midair to be read during fl ights, and often continue to live for quite a while in the homes of the passen-gers who have reached their destinations and decided to hold on to them, either as a keepsake or because of their content. Let us start with fi rst things fi rst and take a peak into the past. The earliest in-fl ight magazines followed a certain logic regard-ing contents and visual imagery which dominated the world of printed media in the 40’s and 50’s of the last century. The contents they presented strictly followed the

already established lifestyle magazine rules while their graphic design was in line with the contemporary aesthetic and technical capabilities. Photos, fi rst black and white and then colour, became one of the most important tools of communication with the readers. Very often, in-flight magazines touched upon topical, political, cultural and scientifi c issues, but their main purpose was to promote travel, a dynamic lifestyle and multicultural values which were inevitably linked to the phenomenon of accessible continental and intercontinental travels.In the late 60’s and early 70’s, in-fl ight maga-zines started to place a lot more emphasis on the visual presentation of destinations, i.e. on depicting the cultural, historical and natural values of specifi c cities and regions. As a result of that orientation, their graphic framework and the apportionment of infor-mation became somewhat easier on the eye. Topics took centre stage, while graphic design was only discretely present.With this kind of legacy, the in-fl ight maga-zine phenomenon reached its pinnacle in the 80’s and welcomed the 90’s. In 1989, on

the eve of political changes in South-Eastern Europe, the family of global airline carriers was joined by yet another one − Zagal, today’s Croatia Airlines, a company which has been publishing its in-fl ight magazine, Croatia, for 20 years.The times were very different than today; the Republic of Croatia is now a member of the European Union. Back then, the former Yugoslavia had just broken up and disappeared from the map of the world. Consequently, a new state was created and the need arose to make its name known. That was the context that provided the framework for the contents of the new in-fl ight magazine. War was still pretty much going on in Croatia when the fi rst issues of Croatia magazine came off the printing press. During those first few years, the mission of the in-fl ight magazine was to put the name of the newly founded state on the map and present it to the world; it had only previously existed as a constituent part of a broader association of the South-Slav peoples. The magazine’s main purpose was to serve as a vehicle for the promotion

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12 CROATIA AIRLINES

of that new entity, by way of presenting its cultural identity and the beauty of its land. That was the brief that the Croatian Airlines in-fl ight magazine followed during the fi rst few years of its publication. There is hardly any important element of Croatian history or culture which was not featured on the pages of the magazine. As years went by, the range of topics expanded very much in line with the geographic expansion of the company’s operations. The magazine showcased cities where the company’s aircraft landed, and as time went by, many others which were easily accessible from Croatia Airlines’ des-tinations in cooperation with partner airlines. Thus, following the best industry practices, Croatia became a medium which comple-mented all other media aimed at promoting travel and a dynamic lifestyle.

− The communication functionality of Croatia Airlines’ in-fl ight magazine becomes quite evident as soon as one begins leafing through the old issues. The magazine, which has been published since 1994, is very often the passengers’ fi rst contact with Croatia. − During the fi rst years of its publication, the mission of our in-fl ight magazine was to communicate the name of the newly founded state and carry it across state borders. The main goal was to promote Croatian culture, heritage and natural wealth and present vari-ous things of interest to the traveller. Besides showcasing Croatia, the goal was also to provide passengers and the public at large with bits of information related to the air-travel industry and the company’s operations. This has never changed, says Ksenija Ælof, who has worked for Croatia Airlines for 20 years

as the head of the company’s Public Rela-tions and the editor of the Croatia magazine. Before joining Croatia Airlines, she worked as a journalist, reporter, editor and editor-in-chief. She earned her PhD in communication science, and was the fi rst doctor of science in the newly established scientifi c branch in Croatia of public relations. She is a recipient of the PRO.PR award for her contribution to the profession and linking the profession with science. − The power of this magazine’s medium for-mat concept lies precisely in its functionality. Everything is in the service of communica-tion, says Ksenija Žlof who, supported by a team of her closest associates, has been the creative force behind the Croatia magazine for twenty years. The changes introduced in the meantime are minimal, and not really crucial. With the trademark square photo frames, photo editor, Damir FabijaniÊ, gave the magazine a recognizable graphic framework already in the fi rst issue. He was later joined by Ivana IvankoviÊ as the chief company designer and her close associate, designer Nenad

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CROATIA AIRLINES 13

VujoševiÊ. They continued to provide the magazine with its identity to this very day, although nearly al l prominent Croatian photographers and excellent authors have made their contributions. Gabrijela Lochert, who holds a degree in economics, joined the team 15 years ago and took charge of advertising.− For a number of years now, our advertisers have perceived us as a quality advertising channel. As a result, there has been an unre-lenting interest in the presentation of various products and services and advertising in Croatia Magazine, says Gabrijela, a promo-tion specialist, who joined the company as a cabin crew member nearly 20 years ago.Damir FabijaniÊ is not only the editor of photography and the chief photographer of the Croatia Airlines infl ight magazine, he is also the author of photographs in other Croatia Airlines promotional materials. He has been a freelance photographer for 27 years. Solo exhibitions of his work have been mounted all over Europe and South America and he is best known for his book trilogy Dubrovnik... He is also the author or

creator-collaborator in many monographs and publications (ORIS magazine), the co-author of the Croatian pavilions at EXPO 2005 and 2008, and the architect of the internationally acclaimed enogastronomy magazine IÊe&piÊe.− By a lucky coincidence, I had the opportu-nity (and honour) to be the generator wheel for the current Croatia infl ight magazine. I was invited to participate in the shaping of the fi rst issue as a photographer (and the non-offi cial art director), Ksenija Ælof came on immediately after that and has been the magazine’s editor-in-chief since the second issue. Young designer, Ivana IvankoviÊ, joined us straight from school and participated in the creation of the third issue. A fantastic professional, she greatly improved the fundamental guiding principle which had been set out (with some limita-tions) for the fi rst issue. It is a great pleasure to be able to place trust in such colleagues, says Damir FabijaniÊ. The fact that there is a magazine out there which has been running for 20 consecu-tive years by the same team commands

respect and also begs the question: is there a similar case.A formal framework and creative tools for the magazine were defi ned from the very outset. The emphasis was placed on large photo reproductions which were systemati-cally laid out, a simple typography, and a non-complicated colour scheme. In short, user friendly, all with a view to developing a story of Croatia, its people, nature and culture from one issue to the next, every four months, but also a story of the cit-ies, peoples and cultures worldwide. One could easily say that in terms of its design, Croatia travel magazine is a successor of the very pronounced modernistic outlines of the traditional 20th century art in Croatia.− From the very outset, our guiding prin-ciple was less is more. We set boundaries for visual expression and thus, created room to search for our own freedom of expression within those boundaries while at the same t ime display ing creat ive ideas and innovativeness, says Ivana IvankoviÊ, who has been in charge of not only the design of the magazine but the

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14 CROATIA AIRLINES

entire company for the whole of 20 years. Ivana IvankoviÊ holds a master’s degree in design from the Faculty of Architecture of the University of Zagreb. She was amongst the fi rst generation of students to have gradu-ated from a newly set up interfaculty study programme. Since 1995, she has been the head of the Department of Company Design at Croatia Airlines, where she has acquired experience in all the stages of implementa-tion of complex corporate visual identity. In 2004, she redesigned Croatia Airlines’ air-craft and received the international ReBrand 100 award for her work, with her redesign having been proclaimed one of the best brands in 2005. Her work is staged at lead-ing local design exhibitions and in various international trade publications (European Design Annual, Print, Icograda Gallery, KAK, etc.). She is the recipient of several profes-sional recognitions and awards.Nenad VujoπeviÊ has been in charge of the magazine’s layout as the chief designer’s closest associate over a number of years. − Our selection criteria for illustrations are very high. Once we make our fi nal choice,

we try to make the images really prominent and accentuate their artistic value. The hard-est thing is to strike balance and make the magazine uniformly interesting from cover to cover, to fi nd the optimum space for a topic and combine all that with the growing number of advertisers who need to be satis-fi ed with the position and treatment of their promotional message, he says. Although the magazine’s visual consistency has been indisputable since day one, some changes have been made in the meantime, in line with changes in the corporate visual identity. The last redesign of Croatia Airlines’ corporate visual identity, which is still very much in place, introduced some semantic changes to the well defi ned formal scheme. Those changes implied a somewhat more complex, but still functional visual structure which communicates the message well. One such element, a redesigned structure on the vertical fi n, located on the tail of a Croatia Airlines’ aircraft is possibly the most recog-nizable element of the corporate identity that stands out from the visual overload at every airport where the aircraft lands.

Corporate visual identity

One may say that visual identity of Croatia Airlines has made its mark on the economic image of Croatia over the past quarter of a century, and features as a significant presence in its overall cultural identity. The fi rst business moves, the fi rst advertise-ments and the company’s fi rst aircraft were marked by a graphic scheme featuring two intertwined squares, a form subsequently developed by its author, Boris LjubiËiÊ, into numerous other variations as part of his other projects. As the company’s opera-tions developed, the need arose for a more systematic elaboration of the corporate identity. The winner of a public competition, wherein designers were invited to submit their proposals for the company’s corporate identity, was a designer of Croatian origin, Vilim Vasata, a professor of communication design in Essen.The competition laid the foundations for the Croatia Airlines communication constants which are still in use: brand and logo and principal colours (the company’s signature colours are red, white, blue and grey; the

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CROATIA AIRLINES 15

company’s font is Helvetica). In the mid-90’s, the University of Zagreb saw the first generation of students graduate from the Interfaculty Study of Design. A competi-tion was launched inviting them to develop creative ideas based on Vasata’s concept. The winner, designer Ivana IvankoviÊ, came on board and has systematically and con-sistently created the company’s corporate identity ever since. She opted for pure design, purity of visual expression, paying special attention to composition within a given format. Photographer Damir FabijaniÊ has played a key role in the communication and media formatting of the magazine. He introduced a square frame as the fundamental and recognizable semantic constant. This idea was elaborated on during the years that followed. The square on the cover page has been kept to this day as the semantic frame-work and often repeated on the magazine’s dominant inside pages. Besides, in the early 90’s, the same layout standard was intro-duced into the company’s calendars and thus, the overall image of the company’s

corporate identity was rounded off. The trademark feature of Croatia Airlines has been elaborated on within the company’s design department.All the elements of the company’s image have been created and elaborated on within the framework of this long-term project: the aircrafts’ interior and exterior, the identity of in-fl ight service, the graphic imagery of printed promotional tools and some edi-tions, the design of the company’s intranet and internet pages, and advertising ele-ments for digital interfaces. Elements for fi lm and video in-fl ight entertainment, communi-cation elements for digital and mobile envi-ronments, the design of sales promotional tools and offi ce design followed. The general project of development of the company’s corporate identity has been pre-sented at many Croatian and international exhibitions and design fairs, as well as in international publications. By communicating the company’s corporate values, its visual identity as well as the na-tional identity of the state, Croatia magazine has certainly played a huge role by consis-

tently explaining what Croatia is, where and what kind of country it is. It has remained constant to that mission to this very day, despite some minor visual and communica-tion changes it has gone through. One of the most obvious ones is a different treatment of the titles and introductions to the articles. The titles are currently a sort of typographic image which works as a metaphor for one of the values of the topic. The introductory page connects the title with the relevant key photo, so as to arouse the reader’s interest by giving them visual pleasure even before they start reading the article. In the contemporary world, where on-line contents have gone from strength to strength while printed media are riddled with more and more problems, even in-fl ight magazines have started migrating into digital environments. Today, Croatia is a familiar notion, much better known now than it was twenty years ago. One would not be wrong in concluding that with the minimal graphic interface it has always fostered, its name-sake, the Croatia infl ight magazine, is also well prepared for a new era. ■

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Prvi broj putnog Ëasopisa Croatia tiskan je u proljeÊe 1994., a sljedeÊi godinu

dana poslije. Od poËetka smo teæili tome da postignemo redovitost izlaæenja te da svako godiπnje doba doËekamo s novim brojem putnog Ëasopisa. Od 1997. godine tako je i bilo. Naime, u prvoj godini izlaæenja tiskan je samo jedan broj Ëasopisa, sljedeÊe dva, a u 1996.g. izdana su tri broja Ëasopisa.Od prvoga do aktualnog broja suradnik je naπeg Ëasopisa urednik fotografi je Damir FabijaniÊ, uvelike zasluæan i za izgled, be-sprijekorne fotografi je te vizualni identitet Ëasopisa. U novinarskom smislu za prvi su

broj, kao dio uredniπtva, zasluæni iskusni novinari Silvana Jakuπ i –uro TomljenoviÊ.Od drugog broja do danas na mjestu je glav-ne urednice Ëasopisa Ksenija Ælof, a u treÊem broju timu se pridruæila dizajnerica Ivana IvankoviÊ, sa svojim vanjskim suradnikom Nenadom VujoπeviÊem, te lektorica Mirjana Miholek. Taj tim do danas neprekidno radi na Ëasopisu, a u meuvremenu je i pojaËan Gabrijelom Lochert, iz marketinga Croatia Airlinesa, koja se brine za oglaπavanje. Da-kako, nerijetko nam pomaæu i drugi kolege iz tvrtke, meu kojima vrijedi spomenuti Anu ΔulumoviÊ, Snježanu Hrs, Davora JanušiÊa...Sad smo veÊ kao neka vrsta obitelji, jer gotovo 20 godina zajedno radimo, dijeli-mo divne, ali katkad i izazovne trenutke. Ali, ono πto se svih tih godina nije nimalo promijenilo jest to da nikad nismo prestali u tome uæivati. ZajedniËka æelja da Ëaso-pis bude πto bolji s godinama ne jenjava, naprotiv, Ëak se i poveÊava i raste zajedno s naπim zajedniËkim iskustvom. Drago nam je stoga πto je ambicioznost tima i ljubav koju ulaæemo prepoznala i struka, tako da je Ëasopis bio uvrπten u mnoge

dræavne i meunarodne izloæbe i publikacije.A evo i nekih statistiËkih zanimljivosti:Kad bi se zbrojila naklada svih dosad tiska-nih Ëasopisa, doπli bismo do broja od viπe nego milijun i pol otisnutih primjeraka, a kad bismo ih poredali jedan do drugoga, bila bi to duga cesta, gotovo kao od Zagreba do Münchena ili od Rijeke do BeËa, jer taj bi red bio dugaËak oko 500 kilometra. Da ih, pak, sloæimo u visinu, bio bi to stup koji bi dosezao do visine leta naπih zrakoplova, i viπe… Ako znamo da je prosjeËni tekst dugaËak ot-prilike Ëetiri kartice, a dosad je objavljeno oko 800 tekstova, znaËi da je ukupno napisano viπe od 3000 kartica teksta. A objavljeno je i viπe nego 16.000 fotografi ja.Prvi broj naπega Ëasopisa imao je 13 oglasa, a aktualni ih ima πezdesetak. Prvi je imao 68 stranica, a posljednjih nekoliko godina Ëaso-pisi imaju oko 180 stranica. Svi dosad tiskani Ëasopisi zajedno imaju oko 192,000.000 stranica.Od prvoga do zadnjeg broja cilj tiskanja put-nog Ëasopisa Croatia ostao je isti: promicati hrvatsku kulturu i baπtinu, ovjekovjeËiti pri-rodne ljepote naπe zemlje te nastojati privuÊi

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putnike koji Êe letjeti zrakoplovima Croatia Airlinesa odabranim temama iz zrakoplov-stva i æivota kompanije, a njihove trenutke provedene u naπem zrakoplovu za vrijeme leta uz naπ Ëasopis uËiniti zanimljivijima i opuπtenijima. Naπi zrakoplovi Ëesto su i prvi susret putnika s naπom zemljom. Svjesni smo toga i zato se veÊ 20 godina trudimo zadræati visoke krite-rije koje smo si u poËetku zadali te osobito prikazati Hrvatsku kao atraktivno i zanimljivo odrediπte.Dosad smo izdali ukupno 80 brojeva naπe Croatije, u kojima je svoje radove objavilo ukupno 508 autora, od toga 287 autora tek-stova i 221 autor fotografi ja. Kako su nam svi vaæni, a nemoguÊe je sve spomenuti, ovom prigodom najsrdaËnije zahvaljujemo svima naπim suradnicima koji su nam u proteklih dvadeset godina pomogli u ostvarenju tog cilja.Æel ja nam je bi la da nakon 20 godina poslaæemo naslovnice jednu pokraj druge i da tvore niz od 20 metara, a da se naslovnica razlikuje samo u fotografi ji. Tu ideju uspjeli smo realizirati, a kako to uæivo izgleda, pogle-

dajte na izloæbi u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt, Trg marπala Tita 10, Zagreb, od 25. rujna do 5. listopada. ■

The fi rst issue of Croatia infl ight magazine was printed in the spring of 1994. The

next one followed a year later. From day one, our goal was to achieve regularity in publica-tion and to welcome every new season with a new issue of our infl ight magazine. This has been the case since 1997. In the fi rst year of publication, only one issue of the magazine was printed; the next year there were two, and in 1996, three issues of the magazine were published. Since day one, Damir FabijaniÊ has been an important contributor and the Chief Photography Editor who takes most of the credit for the magazine’s design, distinctive photographs and visual identity. Experienced journalists, Silvana Jakuπ and –uro Tomlje-noviÊ, who were on the fi rst issue’s editorial board, take credit for its journalistic content. Ksenija Ælof has been the magazine’s Editor-in-Chief since the publication of the second issue. Ivana IvankoviÊ, a young designer, and

her free-lance colleague, Nenad VujoπeviÊ, joined the team for the publication of the third issue, together with language editor Mirjana Miholek. This team has been working at the magazine ever since. In the meantime, they have been reinforced with Gabrijela Lochert, who joined from the Croatia Airlines Mar-keting Department and who is in charge of advertising. Very often we rely on the help of other colleagues, including Ana ΔulumoviÊ, Snježana Hrs, Davor JanušiÊ...We are almost like a family now. We have been together for nearly 20 years, sharing many wonderful and sometimes challenging moments. However, the one thing that has not changed over all these years is that we have never stopped enjoying what we do. Our common wish to produce a high quality magazine has never waned. On the contrary, it has increased and keeps growing together with our joint experience. We are glad that the ambition of the team and the love we invest in our work has been recognized by the industry so that the magazine has been showcased at many national and interna-tional exhibitions and in publications.

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18 CROATIA AIRLINES

2003., 2004.). Dizajn godine 02., Dizajn godine 03, ZagrebaËki salon 2003, Zgraf 9, Ikograda galerija, Izloæba dizajna Croa-tia Airlines − MUO, Izloæba dizajna Infl ight Magazina Croatia Airlines - KloviÊevi dvori, Dizajn godine 0708, Hrvatska gospodarska komora 2008, Oblikovanje za dræavo-Design for the Country 2008 − Ljubljana, Kreativ-nost i inovativanost…

Here is some statistical information: The combined number of copies of the issues printed so far amount to a staggering fi gure of over one and a half million copies. If we were to put all of them next to each other, they would make a road, 500 kilometres long, almost covering a span from Zagreb to Munich or from Rijeka to Vienna. If we

were to stack them one on top of the other, they would make a column reaching or even exceeding the fl ight altitude of our aircraft.If an average text is about four pages long, and a total of 800 texts have been published so far, this means that over 3000 pages of text have been written to date, and over 16,000 photographs have been published.

The fi rst issue of our magazine featured 13 advertisements. The current issue features 60. The fi rst issue had only about 68 pages while over the past few years, our maga-zines have had about 180 pages. All the issues of the magazine printed so far total 192,000,000 pages.Since the fi rst issue, the goal of Croatia infl ight magazine has remained the same: to promote Croatian culture and heritage, to document the natural beauties of our country, to arouse the interest of Croatia Airlines passengers with selected topics from the airline industry and the life of the company, and to make their fl ying time more interesting and relaxing.Our aircraft is often the passengers’ fi rst encounter with our country, which is why for the past 20 years, we have been trying to uphold the high criteria we set for ourselves from day one and showcase Croatia as an attractive and interesting destination.So far, we have published 80 issues of Croatia magazine with the help of 508 contributing authors, 287 writers and 221 photographers. Since each and every one of them is important to us, and since it is impossible to mention them all by name, we are taking this opportunity to thank all the contributors who have worked with us over the past 20 years and helped us achieve our goal. ■

Pozivamo Vas da izloæbu pogledate u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt u Zagrebu od 25.9. do 5.10.2014 godine.Zahvaljujemo sponzorima i partnerima koji su nam pomogli u realizaciji izloæbe.

We invite you to visit the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb from 25 September to 5 Oc-tober 2014 and see the exhibition.We would like to thank the sponsors and part-ners who supported its organization.

Epson, PBZ Card, Erste Card Club, Varteks, Fed, Zrinski d.d.

Zajedno 20 godina/Together for 20 years Gabrijela Lochert (oglaπavanje/advertising), Nenad VujoševiÊ (prijelom/layout), Ksenija Žlof (glavna urednica/editor-in-chief), Damir FabijaniÊ (urednik fotografi je/photo editor), Ivana IvankoviÊ (dizajn/design)

Radovi nastali u odjelu dizajna Croatia Airlinesa bili su zastupljeni na mnogima

domaÊim i inozemnim izložbama

The works created in Croatia Airlines’ department of design have been presented at

numerous local and foreign exhibitions

Zgraf 96, Zgraf 97, 31. zagrebaËki salon, BIO Ljubljana’99, Zlatno zvono (1999., 2000., 2001., 2002., 2004.). Zgraf 99, ZagrebaËki salon 99, European design manual 2000, Euro-pean design manual 2001., Dizajn godine 01., Golden Drum Portoroæ (2000., 2001., 2002.,

6_20godina.indd 18 9/12/14 4:35 PM

CROATIA AIRLINES 19

We would like to say thank you for partnering us over several decades and look forward to working together in the future.

Zahvaljujemo se na više od deset godine partnerstva

More mobility for the world

6_20godina.indd 19 9/12/14 4:35 PM

20 CROATIA AIRLINES

■ RAZGOVOR IVA TOLIΔ Piπe/By Ljerka Bratonja MartinoviÊ

Dam

ir Fa

bija

niÊ

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CROATIA AIRLINES 21

INTERVIEW IVA TOLIΔ ■

Nen

ad R

eber

šak

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22 CROATIA AIRLINES

Zajedno s kolegama na Institutu Maxa Plancka u Dresdenu mlada hrvatska znanstvenica Iva ToliÊ identifi cirala je

prvi potencijalno besmrtni organizam, kvasac afriËkog piva, koji se pomlauje kod svake diobe stanica. To otkriÊe moglo bi postati temelj drukËijeg lijeËenja niza bolesti, od raka do Alzheimerove ili Parkinsonove bolesti. S Ivom ToliÊ razgovarali smo u vrijeme pripre-ma za preseljenje u Zagreb, gdje Êe uskoro zasnovati obitelj i nastaviti znanstveni rad na Institutu Ruera BoπkoviÊa. ■ OsjeÊate li se kao jedna od najboljih

mladih znanstvenica u svijetu? ©to za

vas znaËi ta titula?

− Bila sam iznenaena kad su mi to javili iz Cella. Volim svoj posao i mnogo mi je vaæniji sam znanstveni rad na putu do nekog vaænog otkriÊa nego titule i nagrade, ali, dakako, lijepo je dobiti priznanje za rad. Na toj sam listi u uglednom druπtvu kolega iz cijeloga svijeta, a tu je joπ jedan Hrvat, Mario HaliÊ, koji radi na sveuËiliπtu u Münchenu. Zanimljivo je da su se meu 40 mladih znanstvenika biologa iz cijeloga svijeta naπla dva Hrvata. ■ ©to je zasluæno za uspjeh koji ste po-

stigli - dobre ideje, kvalitetni suradnici ili

neπto treÊe?

− Ideje su kljuËne, a i intelektualno okruæje u kojem radite. Imala sam sreÊu πto sam radila i radim s vrhunskim kolegama i suradnicima, htjela bih istaknuti profesora Nenada Pavina s Prirodoslovno-matematiËkog fakulteta u Zagrebu, s kojim suraujem veÊ osam godina na projektima iz biofizike stanice. Vaæno je i raditi s motiviranim doktorskim studentima i postdoktorandima koji su ambiciozni, fokusi-rani i æele sudjelovati u zahtjevnim projektima. Naπi uspjesi ne bi bili moguÊi bez interdis-ciplinarne suradnje, u kojoj smo kombinirali znanja iz molekularne i staniËne biologije, genetike, raËunarstva i teorijske fizike, te suvremenu mikroskopiju koja je bazirana na eksperimentalnoj fizici. I, naravno, vaæno je da uæivate u tome πto radite jer onda sve ide lakπe i uspjeπnije.■ Biste li danas bili meu 40 najznanstve-

nika da ste kojim sluËajem nakon studija

ostali u Hrvatskoj?

− To je sada teπko znati. Svakako, mislim da je za mlade znanstvenike veoma vaæno otiÊi u inozemstvo na doktorat ili poslijedoktorsko usavrπavanje. Za mene je to bilo neprocjenjivo iskustvo, æivjeti u nekoliko razliËitih dræava i gradova, raditi na viπe istraæivaËkih instituta gdje sam mnogo nauËila, stekla nove kolege, vidjela da se moæe raditi na drukËiji naËin. Drago mi je πto sam otiπla van jer uspjela sam se profesionalno ostvariti. Ali zagrebaËki naËin æivota uvelike mi je nedostajao i zato

sam se vratila, te sada ovdje namjeravam primijeniti sve πto sam nauËila i nastaviti svoja istraæivanja.■ HoÊe li znanost pronaÊi lijek za sta-

renje?

− Proces starenja kompleksan je i ima mnogo uzroka. »ak i na razini stanice brojni mehaniz-mi utjeËu na starenje stanica. U ljudskim se stanicama pri svakoj staniËnoj diobi skraÊuju krajevi kromosoma, takozvane telomere. Osim toga, stare stanice nakupljaju πtetne tvari, kao πto su slobodni radikali, koje uniπtavaju proteine i DNK. Da bi se starenje zaustavilo, treba, meu ostalim, zaπtititi kromosome, te poboljπati razgradnju πtetnih tvari i onemoguÊiti njihovo nakupljanje. Na razini organizma, te-orija genetski programiranog starenja govori da se ekspresija gena programirano mijenja sa staroπÊu organizma. I hormonska se slika mijenja s godinama, πto utjeËe na starenje. StohastiËka pak teorija starenja govori da se pod utjecajem okoliπa πtetne tvari nakupljaju u organizmu i osteÊuju ga iznutra, a oπteÊenja, koja se gomilaju s vremenom, uzrokuju sta-renje. To znaËi da brzina starenja ovisi o stilu æivota. Obje su teorije toËne, ali nije poznato koja od njih u veÊoj mjeri objaπnjava proces starenja.Ne oËekujem da Êe biti moguÊe potpuno zaustaviti starenje, ali vjerujem da Êe ga biti moguÊe usporiti. NaËini za usporavanje sta-rosti ili, jednostavno, ublaæavanje simptoma starosti obuhvaÊat Êe i dalje zdravu prehranu, izbjegavanje stresa, tjelesnu aktivnost, uz moguÊi dodatak hormonskih terapija, lijekova za ËiπÊenje πtetnih tvari i popravak mutacija, a moæda i direktnih genetskih manipulacija.■ ©to je Vas privuklo upravo istraæivanjima

funkcioniranja stanice? Kako ste se dosje-

tili afriËkoga pivskog kvasca?

− Jedno je od najfascinantnijih znanstvenih pitanja ©to je æivot i kako funkcionira. BuduÊi da su stanice atomi æivota, odluËila sam se baviti funkcioniranjem tih miniæivota od kojih se sastoje svi organizmi. Na kvascu afriËkog piva radim od 2001. godine, a njega sam izabrala kao modelnu stanicu, meu ostalim, zbog njegova naËina diobe. Pri diobi veÊine drugih kvasaca, stanica majka stvara mladu stanicu kÊer, a sama nastavlja æivjeti i dijeliti se. Nasuprot tomu, kod naπega se kvasca stanica majka dijeli u dvije jednake stanice kÊeri. To znaËi da nakon diobe stara stanica majka prestaje postojati, a ostaju samo stanice kÊeri, za koje smo pretpostavili da su mlade. Ta se pretpostavka o oËuvanju mladosti kroz diobe pokazala toËnom. Tako smo identificirali kvasac afriËkog piva kao prvi jednostaniËni organizam koji ne stari, dok god æivi pod povoljnim uvjetima. Kad se pak stanice toga

Hrvatsku znanstvenicu

Ivu ToliÊ ugledni znanstveni

Ëasopis Cell svrstao je

meu 40 najboljih mladih

biologa svijeta, nazivajuÊi ih

generacijom buduÊnosti.

Mlada znanstvenica tu

vrijednu titulu dobila je na

temelju uspjeha u otkrivanju

sloæenih staniËnih procesa.

The Croatian scientist

Iva ToliÊ has been ranked

among the 40 best young

biologists in the world by

the prestigious magazine Cell,

which calls them the

generation of the future.

The young scientist owes

this valuable title to her

successes in detecting

complex cellular processes.

Intervju.indd 22 9/12/14 4:31 PM

CROATIA AIRLINES 23

tome je vaæno da æena ne mora sve u obitelji raditi sama. Imam divnog zaruËnika s kojim zajedno obavljam sve kuÊanske i obiteljske obveze, roditelji su nam blizu, a organizirat Êemo i dodatnu pomoÊ u kuÊi.

Iva ToliÊ zavrπila je zagrebaËki MIOC i di-plomirala molekularnu biologiju na PMF-u u Zagrebu. Dio doktorskog rada o staniËnoj mehanici napravila je na SveuËiliπtu Harvard u Bostonu, a doktorat obranila u Zagrebu 2002. godine. Od 2005. godine radi kao voditeljica istraæivaËke grupe na Max Planck Institutu u Dresdenu. Odræala je viπe od 80 pozivnih predavanja na meunarodnim kon-ferencijama i istraæivaËkim institutima, objavila viπe od 50 znanstvenih radova u Ëasopisima s meunarodnom recenzijom, a sudjeluje u nastavi na doktorskom studiju u Dresdenu i Splitu, te na nekoliko magistarskih studija u NjemaËkoj. U posljednjih πest godina dobila je πest projekata od njemaËke Zaklade za znanost, te projekte meunarodne suradnje od zaklade Human Frontier Science Program i Unity Through Knowledge Fund. Ove se godine zaposlila kao znanstvena savjetnica na Institutu Ruera BoπkoviÊa, gdje osniva svoju grupu i nastavlja istraæivanja staniËne diobe i starenja. ■

Together with her colleagues at the Max Planck Institute of Dresden, the young Croatian scientist Iva ToliÊ has identi-

fi ed the fi rst potentially immortal organism, the African brewer’s yeast, which rejuvenates with each cell division. This discovery could become the basis for differently treating a number of diseases, from cancer to Alzheimer’s or Parkin-son’s disease. We talked with Iva ToliÊ during her preparations for moving to Zagreb, where she will soon start a family and continue her scientifi c work at the Ruer BoπkoviÊ Institute.■ Do you feel like one of best young sci-

entist in the world? What does this title

mean to you?

− I was totally surprised when I heard that from Cell. I love my job and the scientifi c work leading to an important discovery means much more to me than titles and awards, but, of course, it is nice to get recognition for your work. I am on this list in the distinguished company of colleagues from all over the world and along with another Croatian national, Mario HaliÊ, who works at the University of Munich. It is interesting that among 40 young scientists, biologists from around the world, there are two Croatian nationals. ■ What lies behind the success that you

have achieved − good ideas, quality as-

sociates, or something else?

kvasca podvrgnu negativnim utjecajima poput πtetnih kemikalija ili visoke temperature, naπ kvasac poËinje starjeti. U takvim se stresnim uvjetima kvasac poËne dijeliti na mlae i starije stanice kÊeri baπ kao i ostale vrste stanica. Dok starije stanice sve viπe stare i na kraju umru, mlae se reproduciraju bez problema, Ëak i u teπkim stresnim uvjetima. To otkriÊe izazvalo je pozornost medija diljem svijeta. Zvali su nas iz Bilda i Zeita, te s niza njemaËkih portala. Za naπ su se rad zainteresirali i britanski, francu-ski, brazilski, kineski i ameriËki mediji, a Ëak je NASA-in Ëasopis za astrobiologiju objavio Ëlanak o naπem otkriÊu. Bila je to lanËana reakcija, svi su novinari æeljeli znati πto smo otkrili o starenju, jer to je vruÊa tema koja zanima cijeli svijet.■ VraÊate se u Zagreb, svoj rodni grad,

nakon πto ste proputovali priliËno svijeta.

Kakvi su Vaπi dojmovi iz zemalja u kojima

ste æivjeli?

− Æivjela sam i radila, osim u Hrvatskoj, u Ëetiri zemlje: SAD-u, Danskoj, Italiji i NjemaËkoj. Na poslu mi je najbolje bilo u NjemaËkoj, SAD-u i Danskoj, a privatno u Hrvatskoj i Italiji. NjemaËka i SAD imaju vrhunske znanstvene rezultate jer su svjesne kako je znanost bitna za napredak druπtva i zato intenzivno ulaæu u znanstvena istraæivanja. Ali, privatni je æivot, po mome miπljenju, kvalitetniji u Hrvatskoj i Italiji jer tu su meuljudski odnosi topliji, prijateljske i rodbinske veze ËvrπÊe i ljudi viπe znaju uæivati u svakodnevnom æivotu. Tu je viπe smijeha, opuπtenosti, a i kaos koji je u odreenoj dozi potreban za kreativnost.■ Pretpostavljam da kao dinamiËna mla-

da znanstvenica volite putovati. Kakvo

mjesto putovanja imaju u Vaπem æivotu?

− Mnogo putujem i uæivam u tome. PoËela sam intenzivno putovati za vrijeme studija, kada sam autostopirala po cijeloj Europi. Bila sam u gotovo svim zemljama Europe, u SAD-u, Indiji, Japanu, Singapuru, Australiji, Argentini, Brazilu, Maroku, Izraelu. Od europskih zemalja najviπe mi se sviaju Italija i ©panjolska, a od dalekih uvelike me se dojmila Indija. ■ Razlog povratka u Hrvatsku, kako ste

veÊ otkrili, privatne je prirode. OËekujete

li da Êete uspjeπno spojiti majËinstvo i

obitelj sa znanstvenim angaæmanom?

Vjerojatno Êete uzeti koju godinu predaha.

− Nije mi sada lako zamisliti koliko Êe mi dijete promijeniti æivot... Ali, volim raditi, pa Êu se vjerojatno za pola godine vratiti na posao. To je posao koji me intelektualno stimulira, u ko-jemu osobito volim znanstvenu znatiæelju, igru i izazove, i spremnost na mentalne skokove da bi se rijeπio odreeni problem i otkrilo neπto potpuno novo i dosad nepoznato. Vjerujem da se znanost i obitelj mogu dobro spojiti, a pri

− Ideas are the key, but also the intellectual en-vironment in which you work. I am lucky that I have always worked with top-notch colleagues and associates. I would like to especially men-tion Professor Nenad Pavina from the Faculty of Science (PMF) in Zagreb, with whom I have been cooperating for as many as eight years on projects in cell biophysics. It is also important to work with highly motivated PhD students and postdoctoral students who are ambitious, focused and willing to participate in challenging projects. Our successes would not be possible without interdisciplinary collaboration, in which we combine knowledge of molecular and cell biology, genetics, computer science and theoretical physics, and modern microscopy, which is based on experimental physics. And, of course, it is important to enjoy what you are doing because it makes everything easier and you are more successful.■ Would you be among the 40 top scien-

tists today if you had stayed in Croatia

after your university studies?

− It is diffi cult to know that. In any case, I think that for young scientists it is really important to go abroad for doctorate or post-doctorate training. For me it was a precious experience, living in several different states and cities, working at several research institutes where I learned a lot, meeting new colleagues, seeing that things can be done in a different way. I am glad I went abroad because I was able to accomplish things professionally. But I very much missed the Zagreb way of life and that is the reason why I returned. I now intend to apply everything I have learned and continue my research here.■ Will science fi nd a cure for aging?

− The aging process is complex and has many causes. Even at the level of cells, there are numerous mechanisms which affect the aging of cells. In human cells, at each cell division the ends of chromosomes, known as telomeres, are shortened. In addition to this, old cells accumulate harmful substances, such as free radicals, which destroy proteins and DNA. In order to stop aging, it is necessary, among other things, to protect chromosomes, en-hance the degradation of harmful substances and prevent their accumulation. At the level of the organism, the genetically programmed aging theory tells us that gene expression is subject to programmed change which hap-pens along with the ageing of the organism. Also, the hormonal picture changes over time, which affects aging. On the other hand, the stochastic theory of aging says that under the infl uence of the environment, the contaminants accumulate in the body and damage it from the inside, and the damages, which accumulate

Intervju.indd 23 9/12/14 4:31 PM

24 CROATIA AIRLINES

over time, lead to aging. This means that the pace of aging depends on your lifestyle. Both theories are correct, but it is not clear which of them better explains the aging process.I do not expect that it will be possible to completely stop aging, but I believe it will be possible to slow it down. The ways to slow down aging or simply relieve the symptoms of old age will continue to be a healthy diet, avoiding stress, physical activity, perhaps with the addition of hormone therapy, medications to cleanse the organism from harmful sub-stances and repair mutations, and possibly direct genetic manipulations.■ What attracted you to researching the

functioning of cells? What has led you to

explore the African brewer’s yeast?

− One of the most fascinating scientifi c ques-tions is What is life and how does it work? Since the cells are the atoms of life, I decided to explore the functioning of these mini live organ-isms which are present in all organisms. I have been working on the African brewer’s yeast since 2001, and I have chosen it as a model, among other things, due to its way of division. In the division of most other yeasts the mother cell produces a young daughter cell and contin-ues to live and divide. Unlike that, in the African brewer’s yeast the mother cell is divided into two identical daughter cells. This means that after the division the old mother cell ceases to exist and only the daughter cells, which are assumed to be young, remain. This assump-tion about the preservation of youth through division proved to be true. Thus, we identifi ed the African brewer’s yeast as the fi rst single-cell organism which does not grow old, for as long as it lives under favourable conditions. On the other hand, if the yeast cells are subjected to

■ I assume that as a dynamic young re-

searcher you like travelling. What place

does travelling have in your life?

− I travel a lot and I enjoy it. I began travelling extensively during university when I hitch-hiked across Europe. I have been to almost all the countries of Europe, the USA, India, Japan, Singapore, Australia, Argentina, Bra-zil, Morocco and Israel. Out of the European countries, I like Italy and Spain most of all, and out of the far away ones, I was very much impressed with India. ■ As you have already revealed, your rea-

son for returning to Croatia is of a private

nature. Do you expect to successfully

combine motherhood and your family en-

gagement with science? You’ll probably

take a few years of leave.

− I cannot even imagine how my baby will change my life... On the other hand, I like work-ing, so I will probably go back to work in six months. My work stimulates me intellectually. I particularly like the scientifi c curiosity, games and challenges, and readiness to make mental jumps in order to resolve a specifi c problem and discover something completely new and previously unknown. I believe that science and family can go well hand in hand, but it is important that a woman does not have to do all the family work by herself. I have a wonderful fi ancé, with whom I share all the house and family-related chores; our parents live close to us and we will organize additional help at home.

Iva ToliÊ attended high school in Zagreb (MIOC) and graduated from the Department for Molecular Biology at the Faculty of Sci-ence in Zagreb. She completed part of her dissertation on the topic of cell mechanics at Harvard University in Boston, and received her PhD diploma in Zagreb in 2002. Since 2005 she has worked as head of the research group at the Max Planck Institute in Dresden. She has delivered more than 80 invited lectures at international conferences and research institutes, published more than 50 scientifi c papers in international peer-review journals, participated in teaching at the doctoral stud-ies in Dresden and Split, as well as several master’s studies in Germany. In the past six years she has received six projects from the German Foundation for Science, as well as international cooperation projects from the Foundation Human Frontier Science Program and Unity Through Knowledge Fund. This year she was employed as a scientifi c advisor at the Ruer BoπkoviÊ Institute, where she founded her research group and continued research-ing cell division and aging. ■

negative infl uences, such as harmful chemicals or high temperatures, they begin to age. Under such stressful conditions the yeast begins dividing into younger and older daughter cells just like other types of cells. While older cells get increasingly old and eventually die, the younger ones reproduce without problems, even in severe stress conditions. This discovery has caused a lot of media attention around the world. We were contacted by Bild and Zeit, and a number of German portals. The Bri-tish, French, Brazilian, Chinese and American media showed interest in our work, and even the NASA astrobiology magazine published an article about our discovery. It was a chain reaction; all the reporters wanted to know what we found out about aging because it is a hot topic of interest to the whole world.■ You are returning to Zagreb, your

hometown, after having seen a lot of the

world. What are your impressions of the

countries in which you have lived?

− In addition to Croatia, I have lived and worked in four countries: USA, Denmark, Italy and Ger-many. Work-wise, it was best living in Germany, the USA and Denmark, but privately, in Croatia and Italy. Germany and the United States have superior scientifi c results because they are aware of the fact that science is essential for the progress of society and therefore they intensively invest in scientifi c research. On the other hand, my private life, in my opinion, was better in Croatia and Italy because in these countries relationships between people are warm, friends’ and family ties are stronger and people know how to enjoy life better. In these countries people are more easy-going, there is more laughter, but there is also chaos, a pinch of which is needed for one’s creativity.

Dodjela ordena Red Danice Hrvatske/Bestowing of the Order of Danica Hrvatska

Dom

agoj

Opa

Ëak,

Ure

d P

reds

jedn

ika

RH

/Th

e O

ffi ce

of t

he P

resi

dent

of t

he R

epub

lic o

f Cro

atia

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To je Hrvatska

Re pu bli ka Hrvat ska smjeπte na je uz istoË nu oba lu Ja dran skog mo ra i u nje go vu za le u. Pro teæe se od obro na ka Al pa na sje ve ro za pa du do pa non - ske rav ni ce na isto ku. Povrπina je nje zi na kop na 56.542 Ëe tvor na ki lo me tra, a povrπina te ri to rijal- nog mo ra 31.067 Ëe tvor nih ki lo me ta ra. U Hrvat-skoj æivi, pre ma po pi su iz 2011. go di ne, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je mor ske oba le 5835 km za jed no s oto ci ma, oto Ëi Êi ma i gre be ni ma. Oto ka, oto Ëi Êa i gre be na ima 1185, a na se lje no je 47 oto ka. Sluæbe ni je zik je st hrvat ski, a pi smo la ti niË no. Nov- Ëa na je di ni ca − ku na.Glav ni je grad Za greb (790.017 sta nov ni ka), ko ji je ujed no ad mi ni s tra tiv no, kul tur no, aka dem sko i trgo vaË ko sre diπte zem lje. Ustav Re pu bli ke Hrvat ske iz gla san je 22. pro sin ca 1990., a me u na rod no je pri zna ta 15. si jeË nja 1992. go di ne. Hrvatska je od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica Eu-ropske unije.

This is Croatia

The Re pu blic of Cro a tia li es along the ea st co a st of the Adri a tic Sea and its hin ter land. It stret ches from the slo pes of the Al ps in the nor th-we st to the Pan no ni an Pla in in the ea st. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its ter ri to ri al sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2011 cen sus, Cro a tia’s popu-la ti on is 4,284,889. The len gth of its sea co a st is 5835 km, in clu ding islan ds, islets and re efs.The re are 1185 islan ds, islets and re efs, of which 47 islan ds are in ha bi ted. The of fi ci al lan gu a ge is Cro a ti an, and the of fi ci al script is La tin. The cur ren cy is the Ku na. The ca pi tal is Za greb (790,017 in ha bi tan ts), which is al so the co un try’s ad mi ni s tra ti ve, cul-tu ral, aca de mic and eco no mic cen ter. The Con sti tu ti on of the Re pu blic of Cro a tia was adop ted on 22 De cem ber 1990, and the co untry re ce i ved in ter na ti o nal re cog ni ti on on 15 Ja nu ary 1992.Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013.

Nacionalni parkovi

Hrvat ska ima osam na ci o nal nih par ko va, od kojih su Ëe ti ri u pla nin skom po dru Ëju (Pa kle ni ca, Pli tvi-Ëka je ze ra, Ri snjak i Sje ver ni Ve le bit), a Ëe ti ri na obal nom po dru Ëju (Bri ju ni, Kor na ti, Krka i Mljet). Nji ma, kao pro stor oso bi to vri jed ne pri rod ne baπti ne, tre ba pri do da ti i po dru Ëja pod stro gom zaπti tom pri ro de, re zer va te, spo me ni ke pri ro de, par ko ve pri ro de. Zbog svih njih Hrvat sku mno gi sma tra ju jed nim od naj ljepπih eu rop skih vrto va.

National parks

Cro a tia has eig ht na ti o nal par ks, fo ur of which are lo ca ted in the mo un ta in re gi on (Pa kle ni ca, Pli tvi ce

La kes, Ri snjak and Nor thern Ve le bit), and fo ur in the co a stal re gi on (Bri ju ni, Kor na ti, Krka and Mljet). Be si des the se, cer ta in are as un der strict na tu re pro tec ti on ∑ re ser ves, na tu ral mo nu men ts and na tu ral par ks ∑ sho uld be men ti o ned as a na tu ral he ri ta ge of spe ci al va lue. They ha ve all con tri bu-ted to Cro a tia’s be ing con si de red one of the mo st be a u ti ful gar dens of Eu ro pe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost

Hrvat ska obi lu je kul tur no-po vi je snim spo me-ni ci ma iz svih ra zdob lja, zbog bur nih po vi je-snih zbi va nja i pre ple ta nja utje ca ja ra zli Ëi tih kul tu ra. Nje zi nu oba lu ka rak te ri zi ra ju utje ca ji me di te ran ske kul tu re, mno gi an tiË ki spo me-ni ci, spo me ni ci iz rim skog ra zdob lja i ra no ga sred njeg vi je ka, ro ma niË ko-sa kral na baπti na te niz oËu va nih ka rak te ri stiË nih me di te ran skih ur ba nih cje li na. Kon ti nen tal na Hrvat ska dio je sred njo e u rop sko ga kul tur nog kru ga i isti Ëe se mno gim pra po vi je snim na la zi ma sv jet ske vaæno sti, sta rim gra do vi ma, utvrda ma i dvor-ci ma ka sno ga sred njeg vi je ka, kul tur nim spo-me ni ci ma i ar hi tek tu rom iz ra zdob lja ba ro ka.Tri hrvat ske ur ba ne cje li ne i dva spo me niË ka kom plek sa ima ju sta tus spo me ni ka sv jet ske kul tur ne baπti ne, ko ji do dje lju je Une sco. To su ka sno an tiË ka Di o kle ci ja no va pa la Ëa, pre gra-e na ti je kom sto lje Êa u sred njov je kov ni Split, gra do vi Du brov nik i Tro gir te Eu fra zi je va ba zi li ka u Po re Ëu i ka te dra la sv. Ja ko va u ©ibe ni ku.Na ci o nal ni park Pli tviË ka je ze ra, naj ljepπi i naj-pozna ti ji hrvat ski na ci o nal ni park, ta ko er je dio Une sco ve Sv jet ske baπti ne.

A past for the present

Cro a tia is rich in cul tu ral and hi sto ri cal monuments from all eras, due to the tur bu lent even ts of hi story and the in ter la cing of in fl u en ces of dif fe rent cul tu-res. Its co a st is cha rac te ri zed by the in fl u ences of Me di ter ra ne an cul tu re, nu me ro us an ci ent re ma ins, mo nu men ts of the Ro man era and ear ly Mid dle Ages, a Ro ma ne sque chur ch he ri ta ge and a num ber of di stin cti ve Me di ter ra ne an ur ban en ti-ti es that ha ve be en pre ser ved. Inland Cro a tia is a part of the Cen tral Eu ro pe an cul tu ral circle and is di stin gu i shed by nu me ro us pre hi sto ric fi n din gs of wor ld sig ni fi cance, by old tow ns, for tre sses and ca s tles da ting from the la te Mid dle Ages, and cul tu ral mo nu men ts and ar chi tec tu re from the Ba ro que era.Three Cro a ti an ci ti es and two mo nu men tal com -ple xes ha ve the sta tus of mo nu men ts of wor ld cul tu ral he ri ta ge ac cor ded by UNE SCO. The se are the La te An ti que Pa la ce of Di o cle ti an, re mo-de led thro ugh the cen tu ri es in to the me di e val city of Split, the ci ti es of Du brov nik and Tro gir, the Ba si li ca of Eup hra si us in Po reË and the Cat he dral of St. Jacob in ©ibe nik.The na ti o nal park of the Pli tvi ce La kes, Cro a tia’s

mo st be a u ti ful and ce le bra ted na ti o nal park, is al so a part of UNE SCO’s wor ld he ri ta ge.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju

Hrvat ska je po sljed njih go di na − ocje nju ju me-u na rod ni tu ri stiË ki znal ci i sta ti sti Ëa ri − naj ve Êe tu ri stiË ko izne na e nje te hit-odre di πte na Sre-do zem lju.Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za sta-tistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otoci-ma, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2013. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabi-lježili su oko 12,442.000 turista, od kojih je stranih oko 10,955.000. Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima oko 64,828.000 noÊenja.Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kon-gresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kul-turnih vrijednosti…Hrvat ska je bli zu ne sa mo zbog svoga geograf-skog smještaja, ne go i zbog mreæe zraË nih lu ka i kva li tet nih uslu ga na ci o nal nog avi o pri-je vo zni ka Croatia Air li ne sa te dru gih zraË nih pri je vo zni ka. I zbog svoje mreæe au to ce sta i po lu a u to ce sta Hrvat ska je bliæa ne go ikad. Ako ste pak oda bra li od mor na jed no me od mno gih hrvat skih oto ka, pri je voz tra jek tom ili hi dro gli se rom s kop na tra jat Êe − i kad su po sri je di oni na ju da lje ni ji − kraÊe od 2 sa ta. Ali nji ho va lje po ta i ne po sre dan do dir s iskon skom pri ro dom bit Êe ta ko ne za bo rav ni kao da ste od sva kod ne vi ce mi lja ma i mi lja ma da le ko...

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism

success

Cro a tia has be en a hit de sti na ti on and the bigge st to u ri st sur pri se in the Me di ter ra ne an in the pa st few ye ars, say sta ti sti ci ans and in-ter na ti o nal ex per ts in to u ri sm. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded roughly 12.4 million tourists in commercial accom-modation facilities in 2013, of whom around 10.9 foreign tourists. Tourists realized about 64,828,000 overnight stays. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommo-dation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing

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excursions that include natural and cultural treasures...

Novac i naËin plaÊanja

Ku na je na ziv nov Ëa ne je di ni ce Re pu bli ke Hrvat ske. U op tje ca ju su nov Ëa ni ce ku na (kn) i ko va ni no vac ku na i li pa (lp). Nov Ëa ni ce su izda ne u slje de Êim apo e ni ma − 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 ku na, a ko va ni no vac − 1, 2 i 5 ku na, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 li pa (100 li pa = 1 ku na). Mo gu Êe je pla Êa nje kre dit nim kar ti ca ma (Di ners, Vi sa, Ame ri can Ex pre ss, Eu ro card i Ma ster card) i eu ro Ëe ko vi ma. No vac se moæe po di za ti i na ban ko ma ti ma.

Currency and payment methods

The cur ren cy of the Re pu blic of Cro a tia is cal led the Ku na (kn). In cir cu la ti on are ban kno tes in Ku na and co ins in Ku na and Li pa (lp) ∑ one hun dred-th of a Ku na. The ban kno tes are issu ed in the fol lo wing de no mi na ti ons: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Ku na, whi le the de no mi na ti on struc tu re of the co ins is 1, 2 and 5 Ku na and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Li pa (100 Li pa = 1 Ku na). Pay men ts can be ma-de by cre dit card (Di ners, Vi sa, Ame ri can Ex pre ss, Eu ro card and Ma ster card), as well as eu ro-chec ks. Ca sh can be wit hdrawn from AT Ms.

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKEMAP OF CROATIA

Izravne domaÊe linijeDirect domestic routes

Odrediπta Croatia AirlinesaCroatia Airlines destinations

stalne / regular

sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

............................................Kar

togr

afsk

i lab

orat

orij

Križ

ovan

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■ MUZEJI MUSEUMS

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Vlaho Bukovac, MLADA PATRICIJKA/ YOUNG PATRICIAN WOMAN, 1890.

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Ideju o osnutku Galerije modernih hrvat-skih slikara Druπtvu umjetnosti predloæio je 1899. Izidor Krπnjavi, slikar i prvi pro-

fesor povijesti umjetnosti na zagrebaËkom sveuËiliπtu, koji je u to vrijeme obnaπao duænost predstojnika vladina Odjela za bogoπtovlje i nastavu. »lanstvo je Krπnjavijev prijedlog prihvatilo aklamacijom i ubrzo poËelo s ustrojem njezina djelovanja.Zbirka koja se od 1905. postupno popunjava-la, za javnost je bila otvorena 1914. izloæbom darovanih, kao i u meuvremenu otkupljenih umjetnina Ëlanova Druπtva umjetnosti. Bila su to umjetniËka ostvarenja najistaknutijih autora, koja se i danas ubrajaju meu likovne budnice hrvatske slikarske i kiparske moderne. Djela slikara Nikole MaπiÊa, Celestina MedoviÊa, Vlahe Bukovca te kipara Ivana RendiÊa i Iva-na MeπtroviÊa, uz djela drugih umjetnika koji su studirali na tada prestiænim umjetniËkim akademijama u Veneciji, BeËu, Rimu, Pragu i Münchenu, bila su prve laste danas golemog jata galerijskih umjetnina. Galerija je zatim za svoj fundus otkupila djela velikog portretista Vlahe Bukovca, predvodnika pariπke orijenta-cije u hrvatskom slikarstvu, ali i djela dvojice mlaih slikara, Josipa RaËiÊa i Miroslava KraljeviÊa, koji su se nakon minhenske Akade-mije − na kojoj su uËili uz poznatog profesora Habermanna − veÊ kao zrele slikarske osob-nosti zaputili u Pariz, gdje su izmeu 1908. i 1912. stvorili djela koja su pokrenula razvoj i bujanje modernizma u hrvatskom slikarstvu prve polovine 20. stoljeÊa.

Ljubo BabiÊ, prvi profesionalni kustos Mo-derne galerije, 1920. u stalni je postav uvr-stio otkupljena pariπka remek-djela dvojice spomenutih slikara, kojima je prerana smrt naprasno zakljuËila opuse. Sliku Pont des Arts RaËiÊ je naslikao 1908., samo nekoliko mjeseci prije smrti, a KraljeviÊ je Parc du Luxembourg, Veliki akt, Bonvivant, Golgotu i Autoportrete naslikao 1912. u vrijeme fulmi-nantne pariπke godine, samo godinu dana prije smrti. Pet godina mlai BabiÊ, koji je i sam bio predstavnik minhenske Akademije i slijedbenik pariπke orijentacije, na taj je naËin naglasio da se s RaËiÊevom, te poglavito KraljeviÊevom pariπkom dionicom opusa za-tvara beËko i minhensko poglavlje, a otvara novo u hrvatskoj likovnoj moderni. Moderna galerija s vremenom je postala nezaobilazno mjesto zagrebaËke i hrvatske memorije, a svakako i jedno od najvaænijih Ëimbenika u formiranju nacionalnoga likov-noga i kulturnog profi la modernog vremena, kao i promicatelj stvaralaπtva hrvatskih autora na internacionalnom planu. Izloæba Miroslava KraljeviÊa, koja je u proljeÊe 2014. odræana u Ca’ Pesaro, nije prva izloæba Moderne galerije predstavljena Veneciji. Naime, od 1926. do 2009. s pridruæenim povjerenicima Moderna je galerija na venecijanskoj Mostri realizirala osam izloæbi. A od osamostaljenja Republi-ke Hrvatske joπ je intenzivnije prisutna na meunarodnoj likovnoj sceni uz niz tematskih izloæbi iz hrvatske likovne kulturne baπtine i suvremene produkcije. Il Paesagio nella

U srediπtu Zagreba, u prekrasnoj historicistiËkoj Vranyczanyjevoj

palaËi na Zrinjevcu, sagraenoj 80-ih godina 19. stoljeÊa prema

projektu slavnog austrijskog arhitekta Otte Hofera, smjeπtena je

Moderna galerija. S fundusom od 9800 umjetnina najveÊa je zbirka

hrvatske moderne likovne umjetnosti.

The Modern Gallery is situated in the very centre of Zagreb, in the

beautiful historicist Vranyczany Palace at Zrinjevac. It was built in

the 80s of the 19th century according to the design of the famous

Austrian architect Otto Hofer. With a collection comprising 9800

works, it is the largest art collection of Croatian modern fi ne art.

Pripremila/Prepared by Lana Šetka

Fotografi je/Photos Goran VraniÊ

Josip RaËiÊ, PONT DES ARTS, 1908.

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Mato Celestin MedoviÊ, VRIJES/HEATHER, 1911.

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Ivan RendiÊ, HERCEGOVKA/ WOMAN FROM HERZEGOVINA, 1901.

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Vizure stalne izloæbe Moderne galerije Hrvatska likovna umjetnost od 19. do 21. stoljeÊa

The Modern Gallery’s permanent exhibition Croatian fi ne Art from 19 th to 21st century

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Postav retrospektive Miroslava KraljeviÊa/

Miroslav KraljeviÊ’s retrospective

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Vizure stalne izloæbe Moderne galerije Hrvatska likovna umjetnost od 19. do 21. stoljeÊa

The Modern Gallery’s permanent exhibition Croatian fi ne Art from 19 th to 21st century

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Miroslav KraljeviÊ, OLIMPIJA/OLIMPYA 1912.

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pittura Moderna Croata izloæba je koja je 1991. odræana u Milanu, a Nuevo Arte de Croacia tijekom 1997. i 1998. bila je predstavljena u najznaËajnijim muzejima Juæne Amerike. Europi je otkrila hrvatsku umjetnost 2000. retrospektivom Vlahe Bukovca u Nacionalnoj galeriji u Pragu, a devet godina poslije i u Gemeentemuseumu u Den Haagu. A 2011. u Donauschwäbisches Zentralmuseumu u Ulmu, na izloæbi Kroatische moderne Kunst im europäischen Kontext an der Wende vom 19. zum 20. Jahrhundert predstavila je osamde-setak najznaËajnijih djela hrvatskih umjetnika na prijelazima posljednja dva stoljeÊa. Od pedesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa Mo-derna galerija, uza stalni postav, prireuje i retrospektivne i monografske izloæbe kljuËnih protagonista novije i suvremene nacionalne likovne umjetnosti, te tematske izloæbe u vezi s hrvatskom modernom baπtinom. Izloæbena aktivnost joπ je intenzivnija nakon πto je u obnovi palaËe 2005. mostom uspostavljen kruæni tok izmeu 30 izloæbenih dvorana rasporeenih na dva kata, a umjetnine su izloæene prema najviπim muzeoloπkim standardima. Recentni stalni postav galerije tvori 780 reprezentativnih izloæaka nastalih izmeu 1835. i 2010. godine, koji biljeæe zbivanja na hrvatskoj umjetniËkoj sceni od pojave modernoga graanstva do suvreme-ne produkcije. Vaæan je dio stalnog postava i Taktilna gale-rija MG, prva multisenzorna galerija u ovom dijelu Europe, namijenjena slijepim i slabo-vidnim osobama kojima je uz audiovodiËe, taktilne dijagrame i legende na Brailleovu pismu omoguÊeno razgledavanje kapitalnih djela hrvatskog slikarstva i kiparstva od 19. stoljeÊa do danas, pa mogu u sadræajnom i oblikovnom smislu vidjeti sliku i prepoznati skulpturu. Tako je Moderna galerija hrvat-sku likovnu umjetnost novijeg doba uËinila dostupnu svima. RespektirajuÊi mnogostruke interese su-vremene publike i promjene u percepciji baπtinjenoga likovnog stvaralaπtva, Galerija prireuje povremene izloæbe unutar samog postava kako bi s motriπta suvremenih spoznaja povijesno-umjetniËke struke re-valorizirala likovne opuse koji su zakljuËeni i afi rmirala recentno stvaralaπtvo umjetnika koji su u zenitu kreativnih postignuÊa. U tom kontekstu u prosincu proπle godine, u povodu stote obljetnice smrti Miroslava KraljeviÊa, jed-noga od najznaËajnijih hrvatskih modernista, u Modernoj je galeriji inaugurirana prva cjelovita izloæba slikarova stvaralaπtva na kojoj je bilo predstavljeno stotinu i devedeset KraljeviÊevih djela: ulja, akvarela, kolaæa, gvaπeva, crteæa, grafi ka i skulptura. Ako ove jeseni ili zime

doete u Osijek i Dubrovnik, retrospektivnu izloæbu prvaka hrvatske slikarske moderne moæete razgledati tijekom listopada i stude-noga u OsjeËkoj galeriji likovnih umjetnosti, a tijekom prosinca i u dubrovaËkoj UmjetniËkoj galeriji.A u svom domu, u palaËi Vranyczany u Zagrebu, Moderna galerija ovu jesen posjeti-teljima je, uz novi stalni postav, pripremila i sjajnu retrospektivu slikarstva Zlatka Boure-ka, te izloæbu kiparice Milene Lah, a uoËi boæiÊnih i novogodiπnjih blagdana i izloæbu novih galerijskih akvizicija, meu kojima su i mnoga vrijedna djela veÊ spominjanih likovnih umjetnika.

The idea of founding the Modern Gallery of Croatian Painters was proposed to the Art Society in 1899 by Isidor

Krπnjavi, a painter and the fi rst professor of art history at the University of Zagreb, who at the time served as head of the government’s Department for Education and Religion. The members accepted Krπnjavi’s proposal by acclamation and soon started with the orga-nization of its operation.The collection, which has been gradually ex-panded since 1905, was open to the public in 1914 with an exhibition of donated, as well as in the meantime purchased, artworks of the members of the Art Society. Those were the artistic achievements of the most promi-nent authors who are today considered the ‘art reveille’ of Croatian modern painting and sculpture arts. The works of painters Nikola MaπiÊ, Celestin MedoviÊ, Vlaho Bukovac and sculptors Ivan RendiÊ and Ivan MeπtroviÊ, along with the works of other artists who studied at the then prestigious art academies in Venice, Vienna, Rome, Prague and Munich, were the fi rst examples of today’s gallery of fi ne arts. Following this, works were purchased for the gallery’s collection which were done by the great portraitist Vlaho Bukovac, the leader of the Parisian orientation in Croatian painting, as well as the works of two younger artists, Josip RaËiÊ and Miroslav KraljeviÊ, who after completing the Munich Academy - where they were taught by the famous professor Haber-mann - as mature artistic personalities headed for Paris, where between 1908 and 1912 they created works which initiated the development and proliferation of modernism in Croatian painting in the fi rst half of the 20th century. In 1920, Ljubo BabiÊ, the fi rst professional curator of the Modern Gallery, included in the permanent collection the masterpieces created in Paris by the two aforementioned artists, whose untimely deaths suddenly concluded their opuses. RaËiÊ painted the picture Bridge

Ivan MeštroviÊ, Djevojka s lutnjom/

Girl with a lute, 1918.

S postava izloæbe Ikonografi ja grada u hrvatskom slikarstvu prve polovice 20. stoljeÊa, odræane u

Modernoj galeriji tijekom 2010. godine/

From the Iconography of the City in Croatian Painting of the First Half of the 20th Century

exhibition, held at the Modern Gallery during 2010

S otvorenja izloæbe Hrvatska umjetnost u europskom kontekstu na prijelomu

19. i 20. stoljeÊa u Donauschwäbisches Zentralmuseumu u Ulmu, 2011./

Opening of the 19th and 20th Century Croatian Art in the European Context exhibition in

Donauschwäbisches Zentralmuseumu in Ulm, 2011

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of the Arts in 1908, just a few months before his death, and KraljeviÊ created Park Luxem-bourg, Large Nude, Bonvivant, Golgotha and Self-Portrait in 1912, during the years of insta-bility in Paris, only one year before his death. BabiÊ, who was fi ve years younger and also a representative of the Munich Academy and a follower of the Parisian orientation, thereby emphasised that with RaËiÊ’s, and even more so KraljeviÊ’s Parisian opuses, the Vienna and Munich chapters were closed and a new one was opened in Croatian modern art. The Modern Gallery eventually became a cru-cial point in the Zagreb and Croatian memory, and certainly one of the most important factors in the formation of the national artistic and cultural profi le of modern times, as well as the promoter of Croatian authors internationally. The exhibition by Miroslav KraljeviÊ, held in the spring of 2014 at Ca’ Pesaro, was not the fi rst exhibition of the Modern Gallery presented in Venice. Indeed, from 1926 to 2009, together with its associates, the Modern Gallery had eight exhibitions at the Venice International Film Festival Mostra. Since Croatia’s independence, it has been even more intensively present on the international art scene with a series of thematic exhibitions on Croatian cultural heritage in the fi ne arts and contemporary production. In 1991, the exhibition Il paesaggio nella pittura moderna Croata (Landscapes in Croatian Modern Painting) was held in Milan, and Nuevo Arte de Croacia (New Croatian Art) was presented in the most important museums of South America during 1997 and 1998. Croa-tian art was revealed to Europe in 2000 with the retrospective of Vlaho Bukovac at the National Gallery in Prague, and nine years later at the Gemeentemuseum in The Hague. In 2011, at the Donauschwäbisches Zentralmuseum in Ulm, the exhibition Kroatische moderne Kunst im europaischen Kontext an der Wende vom 19. zum 20. Jhrhundert (Croatian Arts at the Turn of the 20th Century in the European Context), presented about eighty of the most important works of Croatian artists at the turn of the century. Since the fi fties of the last century, in addition to its permanent collection, the Modern Gal-lery has been organizing retrospective and monograph exhibitions of the key protagonists of recent and contemporary national fi ne art, and thematic exhibitions related to Croatia’s modern heritage. The activities related to the exhibitions became even more intense after the restoration of the palace in 2005 when a bridge was established between 30 exhibition halls that spread over two fl oors, and artworks were exhibited according to the highest museum standards. The recent permanent exhibition of

the gallery comprises 780 representative ex-hibits created between 1835 and 2010, which captured the events on the Croatian art scene from the appearance of modern civic society to contemporary production. The Tactile Gal-lery MG is an important part of the permanent exhibition. This is the fi rst multi-sensory gal-lery in this part of Europe and it is intended for blind and visually impaired persons who can now use audio guides, tactile diagrams and legends in Braille, which enable them to experience the main works of Croatian paint-ing and sculpture since the 19th century and see the painting and recognize the sculpture in their content and shape. In this way, the Modern Gallery has made current Croatian art available to everyone. Respecting the manifold interests of the contemporary audience and changes in the perception of inherited fi ne art, the gallery or-ganizes exhibitions within the permanent setup in order to revalue art opuses from the point of view of contemporary knowledge of the histori-cal and artistic profession and affi rm the recent work of artists who are at their zenith of creative achievement. In this context, in December of last year, on the occasion of the centenary of the death of Miroslav KraljeviÊ, one of the most important Croatian modernists, the Modern Gallery inaugurated the fi rst comprehensive exhibition of his works and presented one hundred and ninety of KraljeviÊ’s works: oils, watercolours, collages, gouaches, drawings, prints and sculptures. If you happen to be in Osijek or Dubrovnik this autumn or winter, you can see the retrospective exhibition of the champion of Croatian modern painting, which will be held during October and November in the Osijek Gallery of Fine Art, and during De-cember in the Dubrovnik Art Gallery.And in its home, the Vranyczany Palace in Zagreb, in addition to the permanent exhibition, this autumn the Modern Gallery has prepared for its visitors an excellent retrospective of Zlatko Bourek’s paintings and the exhibition by the sculptor Milena Lah, while just before Christmas and the New Year holidays you will be able to see an exhibition of the gallery’s new acquisitions, including many works by the above mentioned artists.

Prezentacija slika Ljube BabiÊa, Ede MurtiÊa i Miroslava KraljeviÊa u Taktilnoj galeriji MG/

Presentation of Ljubo BabiÊ, Edo MurtiÊ and Miroslav KraljeviÊ’s paintings in the Modern Gallery’s Tactile Gallery

Instalacija Vlaste Delimar iz 1991. godine u stalnom postavu MG/

Vlasta Delimar’s installation from 1991 − an exhibit in the Modern Gallery’s permanent collection

S postava retrospektive Josipa Pina Trostmanna, odræane u Modernoj galeriji tijekom proljeÊa 2014. godine./

Josip Pino Trostmann’s retrospective held at the Modern Gallery during spring 2014

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■ OTOCI ISLANDS

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Piπe/By Davorka Vukov ColiÊ Fotografi je/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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Iako poËeci razvoja turizma na Cresu seæu u 1845. godinu, zbog Ëega je drugo mjesto s najduæom

turistiËkom tradicijom na hrvatskom Jadranu, otok danas nije uobiËajeno turistiËko srediπte. Umjesto

ljeπkarenja u hotelima najviπih kategorija s wellness centrima i guranja s turistima s kruzera, ovdje

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Êete promatrati spektakularan let bjeloglavog supa, tumarati netaknutom πumom Tramuntane i

lebdjeti nad morem u gradiÊu Lubenice, smjeπtenome na visini vidikovca njujorπkog Empire State

Buildinga.

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Although the fi rst tourists arrived on the island as early as 1845, and thus started what would become

the second longest spanning tourist tradition on the Croatian Adriatic coast, today Cres is not among

the top travel destinations in Croatia. Instead of lingering by the pools of high luxury hotels boasting

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with wellness facilities and fi ghting for elbow room with cruise ship passengers, you can observe the

spectacular fl ight of the griffon vulture, explore the old-growth forest of Tramuntana and soar above the

sea in the townlet of Lubenice, with a viewing platform equal to that of New York’s Empire State Building.

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Prije dvije godine jedna je ptica letjela zrakoplovom Croatia Airlinesa, od Kopenhagena do Zagreba. Bio je to

mladi, jednogodiπnji bjeloglavi sup Oπtro, koji je odletio iz gnijezda na otoku Cresu do 1800 kilometara udaljenoga πvedskoga grada Tuvea, gdje su ga iznemogloga pronaπli tamoπnji ornitolozi. Bila je to najsjevernija europska toËka na kojoj je ta vrsta veliËanstvenih ptica grabljivica iz porodice jastrebova, raspona krila i do 2.8 metara, ikad viena. Oπtro je tako oborio rekord u letu kraljeva nebeskih visina, tim viπe πto je bio teæak manje od πest kilograma, nedovoljno da preæivi takvu pustolovinu. Ipak, preæivio je, a πvedski ornitolozi smjestili su ga u oporaviliπte nedaleko od Göteborga, uhranili i dovezli do Kopenhagena, otkud je, umjesto na svojim krilima, u Zagreb doletio meunarodnom linijom hrvatskoga zraËnog prijevoznika, te je vraÊen na jadranski otok Cres.Æelite li i vi zrakoplovom do tog otoka u Kvarnerskom zaljevu, moæete sletjeti u ri-jeËku zraËnu luku, zatim cestom do istarske Brestove, otkud Êete trajektom produæiti do creske trajektne luke Porozine ili iz krËkog mjesta Valbiska trajektom do creskog Merga, gdje Êete uz malo sreÊe i strpljenja uæivati u spektakularnom letu supova. Oπtro i njegova druæina najpoznatiji su kri-lati prastanovnici otoka, uza susjedni Krk najveÊega i poslije Hvara najduljega na Ja-dranu. Protegnut na 66 kilometara, njime se rasprπilo nekoliko desetaka starih gradiÊa, se-oceta i naselja, od kojih su neka ostala tek kao okamenjene ruπevine obrasle u brπljanu kakve zaboravljene Arkadije u koju zalutaju uporni πetaËi i ovce, kojih na otoku ima posvuda. VeÊa pak mjesta, poput grada Cresa, nude bogatu raznolikost toga razigranog otoka.Nekada je Cres bio tankom prevlakom povezan sa susjednim Loπinjem, ali odvojen je uskim Osorskim kanalom i spojen mostom, te se ovdje u proπlosti odvijao glavni tranzitni promet izmeu sjevernog Jadrana i dalmatinske oba-le. Zbog toga je gradiÊ Osor na creskoj obali kanala izrastao u meunarodnu luku i bogato trgovaËko srediπte, Ëije se nekadaπnje bogat-stvo ogleda u zgradama iz 15. i 16. stoljeÊa, gradskoj vijeÊnici s natkrivenom loæom, biskupskoj palaËi i velebnoj katedrali. Cres i Loπinj odvojeni su fi ziËki, ali administrativno povezani, jer grad je Cres, najveÊe mjesto na otoku, administrativna jedinica koja obuhvaÊa sjeverni i srediπnji dio Cresa, a juæni dio potpada pod grad Mali Loπinj. Æivot otoka usredotoËio se u gradu Cresu, æivahnoj luci okruæenoj maslinicima, nekada poznatoj po ribarstvu, pomorstvu i brodogradnji. Staru jezgru tvore uske i visoke kuÊe, naslonjene jedna na drugu,

sa starim grbovima koji simboliziraju zanimanja njihovih vlasnika, labirintom uliËica i glavnim trgom s gradskom loæom, nekada opasan gradskim zidinama. Iako poËeci razvoja turizma na Cresu seæu u 1845., samo godinu dana nakon πto je u Opatiji otvorena vila Angiolina i hotel Kvarner, Ëime je poËeo turizam u Hrvatskoj, otok danas nije uobiËajena turistiËka meka. Otvaranje prvog hotela Miramar na kraju 19. stoljeÊa, u vrijeme kada joπ veÊina gradova na Jadranu nije ni sanjala o gostima, navijestilo je turistiËku eksploziju, ali na njemu danas neÊete naÊi hotele najviπih kategorija s wellness centrima, noÊnim klubovima, turistima s kruzera, ekstra restoranima ni partijanja uza æongliranje DJ-a. To je otok za posjetitelje æeljne mira, medite-ranskog ozraËja i maslinika, Mediterana kakav je nekad bio. Cres je otok Ëije se stanovništvo uspješno oduprlo okupaciji betona, Ëelika, stakla, te je zadržao onu neku egzotiku. Cres je Ëista egzotika.Bogata mitologija kvarnerskog podruËja crpila je nadahnuÊe i na tom otoku, raspolovljenom na dva svijeta. Onaj juæni i srednji, tipiËni mediteranski s paπnjaËkim goletima i gustom makijom, te sjeverni, submediteranski s po-druËjem Tramuntane, visokim i strmim oba-lama, rijetkim naseljima, πkrtom vegetacijom i kraπkim paπnjacima, prelazeÊi na sjeveroistoku u gustu mitsku πumu visokog hrasta medunca, graba, brijesta i kestena. U srce otoka ukopalo se slatkovodno jezero Vrana okruæeno πpiljama i novozasaenom πumom borova − za stanovnike Cresa i Loπinja pitka voda kao dragocjeni izvor æivota, te nije Ëudno πto se ovdje povijest mjeri tisuÊama godina. I dokazuje ostacima liburnijskih gra-dina, antiËkih gradova, ranokatoliËkih crkvi-ca, samostana i graevina iz venecijanskog razdoblja.A u æupnoj crkvi sv. Marka, u naselju Valun juæno od grada Cresa, Ëuva se dragocjeni spomenik hrvatske pismenosti, Valunska ploËa. Taj dvojeziËni i dvopisamski natpis iz 11. stoljeÊa, na kojemu je tekst na hrvatskoj obloj glagoljici i latinskom pismu karolini, svjedoËi o kontinuitetu i opstojnosti hrvatskoga kulturnog biÊa. Raritet predstavlja i Senjski misal ili Misal po zakonu rimskog dvora, koji se Ëuva u Sa-mostanu sv. Franje sagraenome potkraj 12. stoljeÊa. Senjski misal prva je pisana hrvatska knjiga otisnuta 1483. godine, 28 godina nakon dovrπetka Ëetrdesetdvoredne Biblije i pred-stavlja prvu europsku knjigu koja nije tiskana latiniËnim slovima (tiskana glagoljica). Jedan je od tri preostala originalna primjerka.Revizijom iz 1997. godine utvreno je da creski Samostan sv. Frane Ëuva joπ 27 inkunabula (tzv. prvotisci).

Na zapadnome i juænom dijelu nanizale su se mnogobrojne uvale i πljunkovite plaæe, na sjevernoj i istoËnoj strani ustremile su se visoke, sure stijene. Na litici jedne od njih, na 378 metara visine, kao da stojite na vrhu njujorπkog Empire State Buildinga, smjestio se kameni gradiÊ Lubenice, ispod kojega vas Ëeka samo provalija i beskrajna morska puËina. U srednjemu vijeku Lubenice su stoga s razlogom bile najbolja osmatraËnica i jedno od vaænih geostrateπkih srediπta arhipelaga. Danas bi mogla biti savrπena lokacija za kakvu fi lmsku maπtariju tipa Gospodara prstenova i sasvim posebno mjesto za sluπanje Rossinijeve komiËne opere BraËna mjenica ili neku izvedbu ansambla za ranu glazbu Marco Polo na Lube-niËkim glazbenim veËerima.Saviti gradsko gnijezdo u takvoj ptiËjoj per-spektivi, meu oblacima, do Ëega se moæe vinuti samo bjeloglavi sup, nije bilo lako, ali tu se uporno æivjelo Ëetiri tisuÊljeÊa, sve do ovih dana kada se zaustavilo vrijeme i viπe nema stanovnika mlaih od πezdeset i pet godina. Tek kad se spustite u podnoæje Lubenica, otkrit Êete plaæu Sv. Ivan, jednu od mnogih na otoku, koju je zbog dramatiËne pozadine i bisernog mora njemaËki Bild svrstao na petnaesto mje-sto meu Ëetrdeset najljepπih plaæa na svijetu.I dom bjeloglavog supa, gradiÊ Beli, Caput Insu-lae (Glava otoka), kako ga je nazvao car Tiberije, ili Orlovo gnijezdo, kako ga joπ zovu domaÊi, smjeπten je visoko u brdu, sa zaπtiÊenom luËicom i πljunËanom plaæom u podnoæju. Stari rimski most i nekoliko bunara svjedoËe o naselju iz rimskih vremena. Bjeloglavi sup, Ëijih je Ëak 80 parova upravo ovdje pronaπlo svoj dom, postao je i svojevrsni brand otoka Cresa. U Belom je pokrenuta i priËa o cjelovitoj zaπtiti bioraznolikosti otoka i kulturno-povijesnog naslijea Tramuntane, edukaciji i buduÊnosti ekoturizma.Na sedam pouËnih ekostaza duæine πezdeset kilometara oblikovano je sedam labirinta Tra-muntane, s idejom da se preko njih otvori du-hovni dijalog Ëovjeka i prirode. Pritom su samo

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slijedili nekadaπnje putove koji su povezivali da-nas napuπtena sela. Kako netko reËe, da biste nauËili vidjeti i Ëuti, morate potpuno sami kroËiti u divljinu, a nju Êete naÊi ako iz Beloga krenete prema naselju Ivanje, pa uskom cestom što se pretvara u puteljak poete u netaknutu πumu, koja svojom gustoÊom i Ëudesnim oblicima osuπenih hrastova asocira na fantastiËni svijet hrvatske spisateljice Ivane BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ. Na proplancima nabasat Êete na Vesnin labirint, posveÊen starohrvatskoj božici proljeÊa, Ladin labirint, posveÊen starohrvatskoj božici ljubavi i ljepote, labirint vatre i vode...Kada hrvatskom gurmanu spomenete Cres, on Êe vas odmah podsjetiti na mladu cre-sku janjetinu i ekstra djeviËansko maslinovo ulje. Kao nekada, ovce i danas uzgajaju na slobodnoj ispaπi, a bogato aromatiËno bilje, zaËinjeno morskom soli πto je donose vjetrovi, creskoj janjetini daju osobito delikatan okus. A otoËani je znaju pripremiti na niz naËina, pa je to jedino mjesto gdje sam je kuπala pohanu. Bila je podjednako ukusna kao i ona s raænja. Na jelovnicima restorana i konoba uz ribu, plo-dove mora i janjetinu, Ëesto Êete naÊi i divljaË, jer ovdje je ima zbog πumskog okruæja. Tu bogatu raznolikost Cresani nastoje promicati popularnim gastronomskim dogaanjima kao πto su Brudetijada (riba), Gulaπijada (divljaË), Dani creske janjetine i creskoga maslinovog ulja (Ævacetijada), Granceta fest − kuhanje jela od rakova tzv. granceta, Feπta od dagnji, Dani treπanja, Dani smokava...Trodnevni Semenj (starohrvatska rijeË za sajam) poËinje na Dan Majke Boæje Snjeæne u poËetku kolovoza, a tradicionalna puËka sveËanost, koja vuËe korijenje iz 16. stoljeÊa, danas je vesela turistiËka manifestacija, kao πto je to i u nas jedini meunarodni ljetni karneval. U gradu Cresu ljubitelji jazza doÊi Êe na svoje na Meunarodnom CREScendo Music Festivalu, ljubitelji ozbiljne glazbe na Osorskim glazbenim veËerima, a Dani Frane PetriÊa, manifestacija nazvana u spomen na poznatoga hrvatskog fi lozofa, humanista i znanstvenika, vaæno su odrediπte znanstvenika i struËnjaka iz Hrvat-ske i inozemstva. Za svakoga poneπto, ali bez turistiËke halabuke.A ako je suditi po putnim navikama bjeloglavog supa, Oπtro sada nije na Cresu. Mladi supovi, naime, najprije odlaze na svoje petogodiπnje lutanje svijetom, te se tek nakon te pustolo-vine vraÊaju u svoju koloniju, savijaju gnijezdo i ostaju na otoku do kraja æivota, 30 do 40 godina, koliki je njihov æivotni vijek. Kao da tako i oni oponaπaju ustrajnost i vjernost stanovnika Cresa, koji se nakon mnogih obilazaka brojnih svjetova, kao moreplovci, struËnjaci i trgovci, u velikoj veÊini ipak vraÊaju svome otoku.Cres je vaπ otok i vaπ svjetionik, prilika da spo-

znate sebe i da doæivite iskonsku prirodu. To je mjesto na koje Êete se radosno vraÊati i gdje Êe vas uvijek radosno doËekivati. NO STRESS ON CRES. ■

Two years ago a bird fl ew from Copen-hagen to Zagreb with the help of the wings of a Croatia Airlines aircraft. The

bird was a young, one-year old griffon vulture Oπtro, who had left his nest on the island of Cres and fl ew as far as the Swedish town of Tuve, 1,800 kilometres away, where he was found, all exhausted, by local ornithologists. That was the northernmost point in Europe where the magnifi cent bird of prey, whose wing span can extend up to 2.8 metres, had ever been seen. By fl ying so far, Oπtro had broken the king of the airspace fl ying record, which was all the more a remarkable achievement based on the fact that he weighed less than six kilos; not nearly enough to survive such an adventure. Still, he survived, and the Swedish ornithologists took him to a bird rescue sanc-tuary not far from Goteborg, put some weight on him and drove him to Copenhagen. From there, he was fl own back to Zagreb, and then on to Cres, with a little help from the Croatia airlines wings. If you want to get to this island in the Bay of Kvarner yourself, after landing at Rijeka Airport you have to take a journey by road to Brestova in Istria and then a ferry to the harbour of Po-rozine on Cres. Alternatively, you can take a ferry from Valbiska harbour on the island of Krk to Merag on Cres. With a little bit of luck and patience, you will be able to spot the vultures and delight in their spectacular fl ight. Oπtro and his mates are the best known and oldest winged settlers of this island, which is the second largest island only to its neighbour Krk and the second longest only to the island of Hvar. Stretching for 66 kilometres, the island is home to several dozens of old townlets, villages and hamlets. Some are nothing more than stony ruins of a forgotten Arcadia covered in ivy and visited only by the most adventurous and persistent strollers and sheep which are a common site all over the island. By contrast, larger settlements, including the namesake town of Cres, epitomize the rich variety of this playful island. In the past, Cres and the neighbouring island of Loπinj were connected by a thin strip of land. The two were subsequently separated by the narrow Osor Canal and reconnected by a bridge. This was where most of the transit traffi c between the Northern Adriatic and the Dalmatian Coast took place in the past. As a result, the townlet of Osor on the island of Cres developed into an international harbour and a

wealthy centre of trade. The former wealth is still refl ected in the 15th and 16th century buildings, the town hall with a roofed loggia, the bishop’s palace and the magnifi cent cathedral. Cres and Loπinj may have been physically separated but they are part of the same administrative district: the town of Cres, the biggest on the island, is the administrative centre of a district encompassing the northern and central parts of Cres, while the southern part of the island of Cres falls under the town of Mali Loπinj. Most of the urban living on the island is concentrated in the town of Cres, a lively harbour surrounded by olive groves; a place once known for its fi shing industry, maritime trade and shipbuilding. The old part of the town features terraces of narrow and tall buildings, boasting old crests which reveal their owners’ profession. The labyrinth of narrow streets leads to the main square with a loggia, in the heart of what used to be a walled city. Although the fi rst tourists arrived in Cres as early as 1845, only a year after Villa Angiolina and Kvarner Hotel opened their doors to tourists in Opatija and marked the beginning of tourism in Croatia, interestingly enough, the island has not become a staple tourist Mecca. The opening of the fi rst hotel, Miramar, at the end of the 19th century heralded a tourist explosion at the time when the majority of other Adriatic cities could hardly dream of receiving guests. However, more than a century later, the island still does not boast the highest category hotels with well-ness facilities, night clubs or top restaurants. It is not on the beaten path of cruise ship guests or party vultures who are entertained by deck juggling DJs. This island is meant for visitors seeking peace, the Mediterranean allure and olive groves; the Mediterranean as it once was. The population of Cres has successfully kept concrete, steel and glass at bay. Instead, they have preserved the island’s exotic at-mosphere. Cres is the essence of the exotic. The rich mythology of the Kvarner region drew a lot of its inspiration from this island, which is

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divided into two distinct parts. The southern and central areas are made up of typical Mediter-ranean landscapes featuring vast grazing fi elds and thick shrubbery, while the northern, sub-Mediterranean region consists of Tramuntana, high and steep cliff-like shores, sparse habita-tion, parsimonious vegetation and pastures in karst fi elds which, as you travel northeast, turn into a dense mythical forest of tall downy oak, hornbeam, elm and chestnut trees. The fresh-water Vrana Lake digs deep into the heart of the island, surrounded by caves and the newly planted fi r tree forest. For the inhabitants of Cres and Loπinj, drinking water has always been a precious source of life. Therefore, it is not surprising that the history of habitation on the islands spans thousands of years. The remains of Lyburnian settlements, ancient towns, early Catholic churches, mon-asteries and edifi ces built by Venetians bear ample witness to that. The parish church of St. Mark in Valun, a settle-ment south of the town of Cres, safeguards a cherished monument to Croatian literacy, the Valun Tablet. The 11th century inscription in two languages, the Croatian Glagolitic script and the Latinic Carolina script, testifi es to the continuity and perseverance of Croatian cultural identity. Another rarity is the Missal of Senj or Missale Romanum Glagolitice, which is kept in the Franciscan Monastery erected in the late 12th century. The Missal of Senj is the fi rst Croatian book ever printed in 1483, only 28 years after the 42-line Bible, as the fi rst missal in Europe not printed in the Latin script, but in the Croatian angular Glagolitic script. It is one of the only three remaining copies. The 1997 review established that there are 27 other incu-nabula (so-called fi rst copies) in the Franciscan Monastery in Cres. While the western and southern parts are adorned by strings of bays and pebble beaches, the northern and eastern parts offer a dramatic view of high bare rocks. On the very top of one of them, at an altitude of 378

metres, equalling the height of New York’s Empire State Building, you will fi nd the stony village of Lubenice. There is nothing but a precipice and the endless sea below it. It is quite understandable that in the Middle Ages Lubenice served as the best observation post and one of the most important geostrategic centres of the entire archipelago. Today, this could be the perfect location for a fi lm set in the Lord of the Rings-type reverie and a special venue for the performance of Rossini’s operatic comical farce The Bill of Marriage. Or, it could even be the stage for the Marco Polo Ensemble performing their early music during the Musical Evenings in Lubenice. It was certainly not easy to set up an urban dwelling in such a birds’ environment, among the clouds, at a place easily accessible only by griffon vultures. Nevertheless, people have lived here for four thousand years, until this very day, when time has stopped and there are no more inhabitants of Lubenice under the age of 65. When you come down from Lubenice you will discover St. Ivan’s Beach, one of the many on the island. Because of its dramatic background and translucent sea, the German newspaper Bild ranked it 15th among the top 40 most beautiful beaches in the world. The abode of the griffon vulture, the townlet of Beli or Caput Insulae (the Head of the Is-land), as the Emperor Tiberius called it, or the Eagle’s Nest, the pet name given to it by the locals, is also nestled high up on a hilltop, with a well-protected harbour and a pebble beach at its foot. The old Roman bridge and several water wells bear witness to the Roman origin of the settlement. As many as 80 griffon vulture couples have found their home here making the species the trademark of Cres. In addition to protecting the griffon vulture, the centre in Beli has extended its mission to the overall protection of the biological diversity of the island and the cultural and historical heritage of Tramuntana, as well as to the education and the future of environmentally friendly tourism.Seven educational eco-trails, with a total length of some 60 kilometres, have shaped the seven labyrinths of Tramuntana. The underlying idea was to open a spiritual dialogue between people and nature. The new trails were mapped along the former roads which used to connect the villages on the island, which nowadays are sadly abandoned. As somebody once said, if you wish to learn how to see and hear, you have to set out into the wilderness on your own. You will fi nd wilderness if you set out from Beli towards Ivanje, and then proceed along the narrow road which becomes a path and enters the virgin forest. Its density and the fantasti-cally shaped old oak trunks are reminiscent of

the mystical world of the Croatian writer Ivana BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ. One of the openings in the forest reveals Vesna’s Labyrinth, dedicated to the old Croatian goddess of spring, as well as Lada’s Labyrinth, dedicated to the old Croatian goddess of love and beauty, followed by the labyrinth of fi re and water...If you mention Cres to an afi cionado of good Croatian food they will immediately remind you of young lamb from Cres and extra virgin olive oil. Just like in the past, sheep still graze freely, while the highly aromatic plants, imbued with sea salt carried by the wind, give a particularly delicate fl avour to lamb from Cres. The island-ers have many ways of preparing it. This is the only place where I had it coated in breadcrumbs and deep-fried. It was as delicious as spit roasted. Besides lamb, the restaurant and wine cellar menus feature seafood and fi sh, as well as game, which the surrounding forest abounds with. The islanders are trying to promote the rich diversity of the island by staging gastro events such as Brudetijada (Fish Stew Festival), Gulaπijada (Goulash Festival), Days of Cres Lamb and Cres Olive Oil (Ævacetijada), Granceta fest − preparing food with sea crustaceans or so-called granceta, Mussel Fest (Feπta od dagnji), Cherry Days, Fig Days...The three-day Semenj fair starts on the Day of Our Lady of the Snow at the beginning of August. The traditional festival, which dates back to the 16th century, has become a cheerful tourist event, as well as the only international summer carnival. Jazz lovers fl ock to Cres during the International CREScendo Music Fes-tival; the Osor Musical Evenings offer treats to classical music lovers, while the Days of Frane PetriÊ, an event named after the well known Croatian philosopher, humanist and scientist, is a must for scientists and experts from Croatia and abroad. There is something for everybody, without the tourist hullabaloo. If one is to judge by the griffon vultures’ travel habits, Oπtro is currently not on Cres. Young birds fi rst roam the world for fi ve years and only when that adventure is over do they return to their colony, make a nest and stay on the island until the end, for 30 or 40 years, which is their expected life span. They seem to emulate the perseverance and loyalty of the islanders who, having travelled all over the world and having explored its various corners as seafarers, experts and merchants, return to their native island in great numbers.Cres is your island and your light tower. It of-fers an opportunity to get to know yourself and experience pure nature. You will always want to return to it, and when you do, there will always be a warm welcome awaiting you. NO STRESS ON CRES. ■

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CROATIA AIRLINES 75

Live the gameof fast in QatarBe part of the Handball World Championship in Qatar

January 15th – February 1st Here is where handball players come together with the crowds. Where the world meets the game. Where speed and passion challenge your will to be the best. Here in Qatar is where you’ll hold your breath. All for the game of fast. For more information, visit qatarhandball2015.com#LiveitWinit

@2015Handball@2015Handballqatarhandball2015

Live it. Win it.

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76 CROATIA AIRLINES

Zagreb’s st yZagreb, the capital of the Republic of Croatia, is one of the oldest European cities and is yet one of Europe’s youngest metropolises. Despite being a Central European city in geography, culture and baroque architecture, in many ways, Zagreb has a Mediterranean way of life. Thanks to its many infl uences, the city has a special charm and hospitable feel generated by its open-hearted people. Many say that nothing compares to this city!The journey through Zagreb is a never ending story. You may best learn about it by walk-ing down the city streets and enjoying a cappuccino in one of its many city cafes. It is a well-known center of culture where you can fi nd one interesting exhibition after another; there is a host of theatrical and musical performances of all styles and expressions. Many world famous names will appear on Zagreb’s stages in the upcoming season and beauti-ful autumn in Zagreb we are starting with Bundekfest. A rich musical, gastronomic and entertaining program is being prepared for the period September 25 - October 5. Located by the Bundek Lake, this year’s festival is accompanied by partner cities - Budapest, Vienna, Ljubljana, and Rome which will all give a special charm to the Croatian capital and exclusive cultural, gastronomic and amusing happening.Nevertheless, the biggest value of this city is its atmosphere and the people who never allow you to feel alone. Zagreb has a story to tell and it has a heart, a big heart.

Zagreba ka i aZagreb, glavni grad Republike Hrvatske, jedan je od najstarijih europskih gradova, ali i jedna od najmlaih europskih metropola. Iako kulturom i zemljopisnim položajem sred-njoeuropski, arhitekturom barokni, Zagreb u mnogoËemu živi mediteranskim naËinom života. I baš zbog tog spoja on je - priznaju to njegovi gosti - grad specifi Ënoga šarma i gostoljubivih, srdaËnih ljudi. Mnogi kažu, bez konkurencije!Putovanje Zagrebom ovime nije završilo. Možda Êete ga najbolje upoznati u šetnji gradom, uz cappuccino u nekoj od mnogobrojnih gradskih kavana. Uz bogatu ponudu kazališnih predstava, galerija i izložbi, Zagreb je i u ovoj sezoni domaÊin mnogim svjet-ski poznatim imenima. Dug popis dogaanja koja Êe se u Zagrebu održavati sljedeÊih mjeseci, dokazuju da grad živi doista dinamiËno, a festival Bundekfest Êe Zagreb u prvim jesenskim danima uËiniti europskom festivalskom prijestolnicom. Na jezeru Bundek, u periodu od 25. rujna do 5. listopada 2014., oËekuju nas nastupi brojnih glazbenih zvijezda, bogata gastro ponuda, ali i zabavni sadržaji. U društvu partnerskih gradova Budimpešte, BeËa, Ljubljane i Rima, zagrebaËka jesen dobit Êe poseban šarm i ekskluzivno kulturno, gastro i zabavno putovanje.Meutim, najveÊa vrijednost ovoga grada za mnoge je ipak njegova atmosfera i ljudi zbog kojih nikad niste sami. Zagreb ima priËu i srce, veliko srce.

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARDwww.zagreb-touristinfo.hr tel. + 385 (0)1 481 40 51

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CROATIA AIRLINES 77

Treat Yourself with

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78 CROATIA AIRLINES

■ BAŠTINA HERITAGE

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CROATIA AIRLINES 79

Piše/By Goran StojanoviÊ

Fotografi je/Photos Željko TutnjeviÊ

Tekst o nastanku i povijesti jedne vri-jedne baπtine ladanjske arhitekture dubrovaËkog podruËja inicirat Êu

priËom. Poznato je da upravo priËe, koje se Ëesto svrstavaju u legende, bajke ili anegdote, u primatelja produbljuju vrijednosti, slobodu, vjeru, hrabrost ili spokoj uz britku samospo-znaju, koja, kao kakva ispunjena zagonetka, odjednom osvijetljena jednostavnim pouËkom, izranja iz svog vremena i prostora. Uvodna priËa Nasljednik prijestolja govori o drevnom kralju, koji je imao dva sina blizanca. Kako mu potomstvo bi jednako pametno, lijepo, sposobno i odano, kralj je danima i noÊima razmiπljao kako da izabere nasljednika kraljevstva, ali ni u najbliæih suradnika nije dobio dobar savjet. Jednoga dana u dvor naie stari pustinjak, zatraæivπi prijam kod kralja. Namjeravao mu je saopÊiti nešto vaæno i povjerljivo. Kralj, istinoljubiv i dobre Êudi, primi ga u audijenciju. Starac mu reËe da je Ëuo kako traæi savjet

Vidio sam anela u mramoru, i klesao dok ga nisam oslobodio.Michelangelo (1475.−1564.)

I saw the angel in the marble and carved until I set him freeMichelangelo (1475 ∑ 1564)

Ljetnikovac BuniÊ-Kaboga (Bona-Caboga) na Rijeci dubrovaËkoj

ladanjski je kompleks na vodi koji predstavlja jedno od vrhunskih

ostvarenja dubrovaËke gotiËko-renesansne arhitekture.

Zbog upornosti posljednjeg nasljednika dubrovaËke vlastelinske

obitelji Caboga, ljetnikovac je potpuno obnovljen te u novom ruhu

darovan zajednici.

The Villa BuniÊ-Kaboga (Bona-Caboga) on the River of Dubrovnik is

a waterside complex which represents one of the superior achieve-

ments of Dubrovnik’s gothic-renaissance architecture.

Owing to the perseverance of the last descendant of Dubrovnik’s

noble family Caboga, the villa has been completely restored and

donated to the community in its new attire.

oko nasljednika te mu je slobodan predloæiti kako odabrati pravog. Sinovi su ti u svemu sliËni, osim u jednoj stvari, a ona je najvaænija za vladara. Predlaæem da svakomu od sinova dadeπ dva novËiÊa i uputiπ ih da za taj iznos, svaki posebno, kupi neπto Ëime Êe ispuniti prijestolnu dvoranu. Po njihovu Êeπ izboru moÊi izabrati nasljednika.Jedan sin kupi vreÊu sitnog pijeska koju raza-stre po dvorani. Drugi, oËistivπi pijesak, unese veliku svijeÊu postavivπi je u srediπte prostora. Upaljena, ona obasja dvoranu. Kralj tada za-dovoljno reËe: Ti si izabrao ono πto je svima na korist. Od svjetlosti svijeÊe svi bolje vidimo. Ti si odabrani nasljednik, jer pokazao si osobinu najvaæniju za vladara: da misliπ na druge!Misliti na potrebe drugih, donositi mudre i dugo-roËne odluke, odlika je dobronamjernih, jedno-stavnih i velikih ljudi kojima je svijet jednine jedini kojemu teæe; svijet Ëiji se dodir sa stvarnoπÊu mjeri neoËekivano drugaËijim parametrom od onoga na koji smo naviknuli. PriËa o ljetnikovcu

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80 CROATIA AIRLINES

BuniÊ-Kaboga i njezinim baπtinicima iskazuje sadræaj dostojan takvih naËela.Ljetnikovci DubrovaËke Republike iz pet-naestog i πesnaestog stoljeÊa osobita su arhitektonska dostignuÊa koja su odraæavala osobni ukus vlasnika te moÊ i rezultat njegovih gospodarskih interesa. Graeni su u doba kad je dubrovaËki teritorij veÊ bio zaokruæen te sigu-ran za æivot i izvan zidina svoga grada − dræave. U poËetku Ëetrnaestog stoljeÊa, prostori na kojima su ljetnikovci graeni prostirali su se na uskom kopnenom prostoru izmeu Cavtata i Oraπca te Elafi tskih otoka. U tom i stoljeÊu poslije, kada je Dubrovnik veÊ stekao dodatni izvangradski teritorij koji ukljuËuje poluotok Peljeπac, Konavle i otok Lastovo, ljetnikovci poËinju sve više nicati, tako da ih je do kraja 16. stoljeÊa sagraeno viπe od dvije stotine.Gradnji tih ladanjskih prostora pogodovalo je i to što je Dubrovnik u to doba veÊ bio pre-napuËen i buËan te je plemstvo i trgovaËka elita teæila izlasku iz gradskih zidina u okruæje prirodnih ljepota, u svoje novosagraene la-danjsko rezidencijalne krajolike. U to vrijeme dubrovaËku ideologiju ispunjava i literatura ta-lijanskih humanista, koja pridonosi idealiziranju æivota u prirodi te mijenja koncepciju, u kojoj rad na zemlji ima i uzviπen smisao. Oni koji su mogli, izmicali su se od beπÊutne dvoliËnosti svakodnevice traæeÊi slobodu u savrπenom skladu sa svekolikom Prirodom. Ljetnikovci su bili i mjesta slobode koje u Gradu nije bilo, prostor u kojem se uæivalo u πetnjama, goz-bama i ribolovima. To su bili i omiljeni prostori dubrovaËkih fi lozofa i pjesnika, humanista i pisaca, smjeπteni u zelenoplave krajolike tadaπnje Republike.Osobitost dubrovaËkih ljetnikovaca istiËe se i u njihovoj arhitekturi. Ladanjske kuÊe bile su redovito jednokatne, a na njih okomito su se prikljuËivala prizemna krila s orsanom, spremiπtem za manja plovila, osobito brojna na obalama Gruæa i Omble te na otocima. Orsani su bili i ulazna vrata u ladanjski posjed jer tada se njima moglo prilaziti jedino morem. UnatoË tomu, vrtovi ljetnikovaca bili su osigu-rani visokim ogradnim zidovima koji su Ëuvali mir i privatnost veleposjednika. U njima je Ëak i najmanji dio bio racionalno organiziran, a od renesanse svakom posjetitelju bila je vidljiva perspektivna simetrija sadnih povrπina i ravnih staza. Vrtovi ljetnikovaca na Gruæu i Rijeci du-brovaËkoj obilovali su fontanama i ribnjacima, koji su se veÊ tada napajali vodom iz vodovoda.Ljetnikovac BuniÊ-Kaboga pripada skupini najvrednijih spomenika kulturne baπtine i du-brovaËke ladanjske arhitekture iz πestnaestog stoljeÊa, koji su na specifi Ëan naËin oblikovali krajolik na uπÊu Rijeke dubrovaËke (Omble), u predjelu od davnina zvanom Batahovina. Ovaj

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ladanjski komples sagraen na vodi ukljuËuje gotiËko-renesansno zdanje s trijemom, loom, orsanom, kapelicom sv. Bernarda i terasastim vrtovima koji se, u ograenom veleposjedu, dijele na prednje i stražnje, ponegdje i boËne.PriËa o ovom ljetnikovcu poËinje s vlastelinskim rodom Bona (BuniÊa), Ëiji uspon poËinje joπ u trinaestom stoljeÊu kroz uspjeπnu djelatnost trgovine srebrom, olovom, æitom, solju i tkani-nama, a sredinom sljedeÊeg stoljeÊa postali su jedna od najbogatijih dubrovaËkih vlastelinskih obitelji. U to vrijeme BuniÊi kupuju lijepi posjed na Batahovini s blagim padinama k moru, na kojoj poËinju graditi svoj ljetnikovac oko 1520. Iz prve faze gradnje, koja je trajala dvadesetak godina, saËuvani su svi arhitektonski dijelovi i raspored prostorija. Trijem je pokriven terasom koja se produæuje do ogradnog zida vrta, povezujuÊi kuÊu s kapelicom, obiteljskim ora-torium privatium, najviπim statusnim simbolom i privilegijem toga doba. Kako se takva kapelica nalazi na terasi ljetnikovca, njoj se posveÊivala dostojna paænja u ukraπavanju. Upravo kape-lica BuniÊeva ljetnikovca, u kojoj i danas leæi tijelo feldmarπala Bernarda Caboge, koju je sagradio 1538. godine Petar AndrijiÊ, ujedno i autor crkve sv. Spasa u Dubrovniku, jedna je od najljepπih na dubrovaËkom podruËju.Nakon velikog potresa 1667. godine, u kojem

pogiba veliki dio muπkog plemstva BuniÊa, ljetnikovac prelazi u posjed vlastelinskog roda Kaboga (Caboga). Najpoznatiji potomci tog roda, koji se prvi put spominju veÊ u desetom stoljeÊu, bili su Marojica Bernardov Caboga, dubrovaËki poklisar koji je u vrijeme velikog kaosa i potpune dezorijentacije nakon razor-nog potresa 1667. godine, kao srediπnja fi gura i politiËki lider, svojom hrabroπÊu, autoritetom i mudroπÊu uspostavio red i spasio æivot Grada i DubrovaËke Republike, te feldmarπal Bernard Caboga, koji je imao veliku karijeru u austrijskoj vojsci u devetnaestom stoljeÊu i Ëesto, kad je god mogao, pomagao svom Gradu. PoËevši od gospara Marojice, ljetnikovac su posjedovali Ëlanovi obitelji Kaboga, pa su meu njima bili i naruËitelji radova izvedenih u osamnaestom i devetnaestom stoljeÊu. Naj-znaËajnija intervencija u drugoj fazi ureenja bila je gradnja novog stubiπta. U prizemlju ljetni-kovca mijenja se tada format i svod centralnog salona (saloËe), koji postaje predvorje novog stubiπta, a preureenjem interijera uvode se snaæna stilska obiljeæja baroka i klasicizma. Osobitost arhitekture raspoznaje se i u organi-zaciji unutarnjega i vanjskog prostora; prizemlje se povezuje s vrtom, a kat otvara krajoliku.Velika dvorana bila je u kasnom osamnaestom stoljeÊu oslikana svijetloplavom bojom s deko-

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Project management. Property consulting. Construction & Architect

Abis savjetovanje d.o.o. • Abis Consulting Ltd.Nikole Tavelića 50, 21 000 Split • Tel: +385 (0) 98 265 151, Fax: +385 (0)21 473 010 • E-mail: info@abis-croatia.com

www.abis-croat ia .com

VILLA TIHA VILLA ROSEMARINE VILLA IVY & CYPRES

...to the reality...

78_Bunic.indd 81 9/12/14 4:47 PM

82 CROATIA AIRLINES

racijom. I u boËne Ëetiri sobe na katu otkriveni su viπestruki preboji zidova, dokazujuÊi konti-nuitet stanovanja i stilskog ukusa. U drugoj polovici devetnaestog stoljeÊa BuniÊ-Kabogin te susjedni Stayev ljetnikovac postaju posjed istog vlasnika. Njihovi vrtovi tada se povezuju πetnicama.Tijekom gradnje Jadranske ceste πezdesetih godina dvadesetog stoljeÊa prednji vrt i orsan ljetnikovca znatno su skraÊeni. Proπirenje ceste i nasipavanje obale prekinuli su vezu ljetnikovca s Omblom, vezu koja je bila i izvorni smisao njegove gradnje i postojanja.Posljednji potomak obitelji Caboga doktor je kemijskih znanosti Ivo Felner, kojega uz Dubrovnik i njegov ljetnikovac veæu mnoge us-pomene. U trogodiπnjem je razdoblju, velikom upornoπÊu, vizijom i kvalitetnim timom surad-nika, visokom donacijom zaklade Batahovina Foundation potpuno obnovio ljetnikovac, kapelicu sv. Bernarda i vrtove, vratio im æivot, te ih darovnim ugovorom predao na upravljanje Dubrovniku i Republici Hrvatskoj s misijom da sav ladanjski kompleks saæivi kao nezaobilazno mjesto kulturnih zbivanja u Dubrovniku.Projekt obnove, Ëija je vrijednost bila gotovo tri milijuna eura, temeljen je na istraæivanjima povjesniËarke umjetnosti dr. Nade GrujiÊ uz struËnu suradnju Hrvatskoga restauratorskog zavoda i arhitektonskog studija Vetma.U obnovljeni ljetnikovac smjestili su se uredi Hrvatskoga restauratorskog zavoda, tu se nalazi i memorijalna soba obitelji Caboga, koja Êe imati javnu i kulturnu namjenu. Cijeli ladanjski kompleks BuniÊ-Kaboga sa Stayevim ljetnikovcem u sluæbi je zajednice. Kabogin ljetnikovac s kapelicom i vrtovima, πetnicama i terasom pun je obnovljenog sjaja i decentne raskoπi koja ispunjava mnogo veÊi prostor od ograenoga.Poslije viπe desetljeÊa taj ladanjski kompleks, potpuno obnovljen, nudi niz moguÊih aktivno-sti usmjerenih kulturi kroz glazbu, edukaciju, vjenËanja, razliËite radionice, susrete. U njemu se osjeÊa kreativna energija stvaranja; mjesto susreta i razmjene miπljenja restauratora, glazbenika, slikara, profesora i studenata, zaljubljenika u umjetnost i dubrovaËku baπtinu, koja, kao uzorni primjer, poziva u obnovu i druge dubrovaËke ljetnikovce.Do jedne granice moæe se opisivati more; preko te granice mora se zaplivati. Iskazati Ëin nese-biËnog darivanja za dobrobit zajednice, poticati jedinstvo koje viπe nije tek subjektivna ideja, nego poticajna istina, mogu samo rijetki. Takva djela vode prema slobodi mnogo istanËanijeg savrπenstva te otvaraju prostor i vidik neogra-niËenog napretka za sve one kojima je moguÊe razumjeti snagu dobroga, koju nose u sebi. U kraljevstvu materijalnoga, ljudi su ljubomorno

Kapelica sv. Bernarda, interijer/

The Chapel of st. Bernard, interior

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CROATIA AIRLINES 83 tickets available at:

www.medvescak.com

Slovan, Bratislava (SK) 26.09.2014, 18:30

SKA, St. Petersburg (RU) 29.09.2014, 19:30

SKA, St. Petersburg (RU) 01.10.2014, 19:30

Dinamo, Riga (LV) 03.10.2014, 18:30

Slovan, Bratislava (SK) 14.10.2014, 19:30

Sibir, Novosibirsk Region (RU) 28.10.2014, 19:30

Metalurg, Novokuznetsk (RU) 29.10.2014, 19:30

Admiral, Vladivostok (RU) 31.10.2014, 19:30

Amur, Khabarovsk (RU) 02.11.2014, 17:30

Atlant, Moscow Region (RU) 14.11.2014, 19:30

Vitjaz, Moscow Reg. (RU) 16.11.2014, 17:30

Dinamo, Minsk (BY) 19.11.2014, 19:30

Jokerit, Helsinki (FI) 22.11.2014, 17:30

Vitjaz, Moscow Region (RU) 25.11.2014, 19:30

Lokomotiv, Yaroslavl (RU) 27.11.2014, 19:30

Baris, Astana (KZ) 08.12.2014, 19:30

Avangard, Omsk Region (RU) 10.12.2014, 19:30

Salavat Julajev, Ufa (RU) 14.12.2014, 17:30

Neftehimik, Nizhnekamsk (RU) 22.12.2014, 19:30

DEC. 26-31, 2014 KHL MEDVEŠČAK ZAGREB WILL TAKE A PART IN THE

OLDEST INVITATIONAL ICE HOCKEY TOURNAMENT IN THE

WORLD ‘SPENGLER CUP’ IN DAVOS, SWITZERLAND! www.spenglercup.ch

KHL MEDVEŠČAK ZAGREB is the only ice hockey club in the world that has proudly carried the title of UNICEF sports partner since 2010.

All games are played in the Ice Hall of Dom sportova Zagreb

Kontinental Hockey League Championship. Season 2014/2015

26 09 2014 18:30 Vitjaz Moscow Reg

tal Hockey League Championship. Season 201

KHL MEDVEŠČAK ZAGREBvs

eague Championshipeague Championship

FIND OUT WHY THE PUBLIC HAS TITLED KHL MEDVEŠČAK ZAGREB THE ‘SPORTO’ BRAND, MOST APPEALING BRAND AMONG SPORTS CLUBS

IN CROATIA AND THE REGION IN 2013 AND WHY THE WHOLE WORLD . IS TALKING ABOUT THIS CROATIAN ICE HOCKEY CLUB!

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ponosni na svoje posjede i vlasniËka prava. U takvom kraljevstvu boravi se u svemiru povije-sti, u okruæju neprestanog prisjeÊanja s kojim Ëovjek uskovitlava hodoËaπÊe svog razvoja. Postoje i pojedinci, koji imaju boraviπte i u kraljevstvu unutarnjih ostvarivanja, znajuÊi kako iskoraËiti u element nematerijalnih vrijednosti. Gospodin Ivo Felner jedan je od njih.

I will start this text on the creation and history of a valuable piece of Dubrovnik’s legacy with a story. It is a well known

fact that stories which are categorised as legends, fairytales or anecdotes intensify the values, freedom, faith, courage and serenity of those who happen to hear them, and that they enhance the sharp cognition of oneself, which like a completed puzzle, illuminated by a simple morale, all of a sudden emerges from its time and space. The introductory story, The Heir to the Throne, speaks of an ancient king who had twin sons who were equally smart, handsome, able and loyal, so the king spent long days and nights thinking how to choose the heir to his throne, but not even his closest confi dants could give him straightforward advice. One day, an old hermit came to the court and asked for an audience with the king on an important and confi dential matter. The king, who was of sincere and benevolent disposi-tion, granted him an audience. The old man told the king that he knew about his dilemma regarding his heir, and therefore took the lib-erty to suggest how he could make the right choice. Your sons are similar but in one thing, and that one thing is the most important for a ruler. I suggest that you give both your sons two coins and instruct them to spend the money, separately, on something that would fi ll the throne room. Their choice will help you choose your heir.One son bought a bag of fi ne sand that he strewn across the hall. The other one, having cleaned the sand from the room, bought a big candle and placed it in the very centre of the hall. He lit it and its light brightened up the room. The king then said contentedly: You have chosen something that is of use to everybody. The light of the candle helps us all see better. You are my chosen heir because you have displayed the trait most important for a ruler: you think of others!Thinking of the needs of others and making wise and long-term decisions is a charac-teristic of the well-meaning, easy-going and great people to whom the world of unity is the only world they strive for; a world whose contact with reality is measured using another parameter, surprisingly different from the one

we are all used to. The story about Villa BuniÊ-Kaboga and its inheritors presents contents worthy of such principles. The summer villas which were built in the Du-brovnik Republic in the 15th and 16th centuries were special architectural achievements. They refl ected the owners’ personal tastes as well as their economic power and results of their commercial activities. They were built at a time when the territory of Dubrovnik was already well defi ned and safe for living, even beyond the walls of the city-state. At the beginning of the 14th century, the summer villas were built along the narrow strip of land stretch-ing from Cavtat to Oraπac and on the Elafi ti Islands. They started mushrooming during that century and later when Dubrovnik had already acquired territories beyond the city walls, including Peljeπac Peninsula, Konavle and Lastovo Island. Over two hundred villas were built by the end of the 16th century. The construction of those countryside abodes was prompted by the fact that Dubrovnik had become overpopulated and noisy, and so the nobility and commercial elite sought to leave the city walls and fi nd respite in the beauty of nature, in the environment surrounding their newly constructed countryside residences. At that time the ideology of Dubrovnik was infl uenced by the literature of Italian human-ists which contributed to the creation of an ideal image of life in nature and changed the concept in which working on the land had a lofty meaning. Those who could do so found a way to escape from the callous hypocrisy of everyday life and look for freedom in perfect harmony with all-embracing nature. Summer villas were places of freedom which did not exist in the city, where one could enjoy strolls, banquets and fi shing. Nestled in the green and blue countryside of the then Republic, those were the favourite places of Dubrovnik’s phi-losophers and poets, humanists and writers. A special feature of Dubrovnik’s summer villas was the expression of their architecture. They were all one-storey houses, with perpen-dicular ground fl oor wings featuring orsans, boathouses for smaller boats, quite common on the shores of Gruæ and Ombla and on the islands. Those boathouses were also gateways to the seaside estates because the only way they could be accessed at that time was by sea. Despite that, their gardens were surrounded by high walls which preserved the owners’ peace and privacy. Inside, even the tiniest bit of space was rationally organized, and as for their renaissance features, every visitor could notice the perspective of symme-try in the garden plots and the straight paths. The gardens surrounding the summer villas in

Kapelica sv. Bernarda/

The Chapel of st. Bernard

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Gruæ and the River of Dubrovnik abounded in fountains and fi shponds. Already at that time, they were fed by water from water supply lines. Villa BuniÊ-Kaboga is one of the most valu-able monuments of cultural heritage and Du-brovnik’s countryside architecture of the 16th

century which, in a very specifi c way, shaped the landscape of the mouth of the River of Dubrovnik (Ombla) in an area long known as Batahovina. This complex, constructed ‘on the water’, includes a gothic renaissance building with a portico, a loggia, an orsan, the Chapel of St. Bernard and enclosed terraced gardens divided into front and rear portions and some-times side gardens as well.The story about this summer villa starts with the noble family Bona (BuniÊ), whose ascent to wealth started already in the 13th century with a lucrative trade in silver, lead, wheat, salt and fabrics. In the mid-14th century they became one of the wealthiest noble families in Dubrovnik. At that time, the BuniÊ family pur-chased a beautiful plot of land in Batahovina, on property that gently sloped towards the sea, and they started building their summer villa there around 1520. The fi rst stage of the construction lasted for some 20 years and all the architectural parts of the building and the fl oor layout from that time still remain. The por-tico was roofed by a terrace which extended to the wall surrounding the garden and con-nected the house with the chapel, the family’s oratorium privatium, the highest status symbol and a privilege at the time. Since the chapel is on the villa’s terrace, it was decorated with due respect. The chapel of BuniÊ’s summer villa, the last resting place of the body of Field Marshal Bernard Caboga, was built in 1538 by Petar AndrijiÊ, the author of the church of St. Salvation in Dubrovnik, and it features as one of the most beautiful such buildings in the entire Dubrovnik region. When the devastating earthquake in 1667 claimed the lives of most of the male mem-bers of the noble family BuniÊ, the summer villa became the property of the noble family Kaboga (Caboga). The most famous descen-dants of the family, which was fi rst mentioned in the 10th century, were Marojica Caboga, Dubrovnik’s ambassador who, during the time

of major chaos and complete disorientation after the calamitous 1667 earthquake, came to the fore as a central fi gure and political leader and restored order and saved the life of the city and the Dubrovnik Republic with courage, authority and wisdom; and Field Marshal Bernard Caboga, who had an exceptional career in the Austrian military in the 19th century and who helped his city as often as he could. Starting with Master Marojica, the villa’s owners were members of the Kaboga family. Among them were those who commissioned building works on the villa in the 18th and 19th

centuries. The most important intervention during the second building stage was the con-struction of a new staircase. The format and the ceiling of the central salon (saloËa) on the ground fl oor were altered and it became the antechamber of the new staircase, while the reconstruction of the interior introduced the prominent stylistic characteristics of Baroque and Classicism. Another prominent architec-tural feature is refl ected in the organization of the interior and exterior; the ground fl oor was connected with the garden, and the fi rst fl oor was opened out to the landscape. In the 18th century the grand hall was painted light blue and decorated. Several layers of paint were also discovered in the four side rooms on the fi rst fl oor, bearing witness to the continuous habitation and decorative tastes. In the second half of the 19th century, the BuniÊ-Kaboga and the neighbouring villa Stay became the property of one owner. Their gardens were then connected with little promenades. During the construction of the Adriatic Tourist Highway in the 60s of last century the villa’s front garden and orsan were significantly shortened. The expansion of the road and the coastal fi lling severed the villa’s connection with the Ombla, the true reason why the villa was built there in the fi rst place.The last descendant of the Caboga family, Ivo Felner, who had a PhD in chemistry, cherishes fond memories of Dubrovnik and his summer villa. It took him three years, exceptional per-severance and vision, a high quality team of workers, and a substantial donation from the Batahovina Foundation to completely restore the villa, the Chapel of St. Bernard and the gardens. He gave them a new lease of life and then signed a deed by which he handed it over to the City of Dubrovnik and the Republic of Croatia for management on the condition that the entire complex was used as a staple venue for cultural events in Dubrovnik. The restoration project, worth nearly 3 million euro, was based on research undertaken by art historian Dr. Nada GrujiÊ, along with the expert

help of the Croatian Conservation Institute and the Architecture and Design Studio Vetma. The newly restored summer villa is home to the offi ces of the Croatian Conservation Institute; there is a memorial room of the Ca-boga family which will serve the purpose of public and cultural events. The entire complex including Villa BuniÊ-Kaboga and Stay’s sum-mer villa now serves the community. Kaboga’s summer villa, with the chapel and gardens, promenades and the terrace, is awash with renewed splendour and discrete luxury which fi lls up a space much bigger than the one within its borders. After many decades, this fully restored coun-tryside complex offers the potential for various cultural activities, musical events, wedding receptions, workshops and meetings. Beam-ing with creative energy, it is a place where conservers, musicians, artists, professors and students, those who cherish art and Dubrovnik heritage, can meet and exchange thoughts and views; a place which serves as a role model for the future reconstruction of Dubrovnik’s other summer villas. You can go on describing the sea up to a point; after that point, you need to take a plunge. There are few of us who can selfl essly give and benefi t their community; who can inspire unity which is no longer just a subjective idea but an inspirational truth. Such deeds lead to the freedom of a much more sophisticated perfection and open a space and perspective of limitless progress for all those who are able to appreciate the power of the good they carry within themselves. In the kingdom of material wealth, people are jealously proud of their property and title deeds. In such a kingdom, one resides in the universe of history, surrounded by perpetual memories which propel them onto the pilgrimage of their development. There are also individuals who reside in the kingdom of their intimate achieve-ments, those who know how to make a step forward into the element of intangible values. Mr. Ivo Felner is one of them.

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Piše/By Anika Rešetar Drvar Fotografi je/Photos Saša PjaniÊ

KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA INLAND CROATIA ■

Iako su vremena raskoπnog æivota u toplicama davna proπlost, o

kojima svjedoËe brojni spomenici arhitekture tog doba i perivoji i

parkovi koji svojom dugovjeËnoπÊu krijepe duπu, VijeÊe Europe

pokrenulo je 2010. godine inicijativu Udruæenje europskih povijesnih

termalnih gradova (EHTTA) radi oËuvanja, povezivanja i revalorizacije

povijesnih europskih termalnih toplica. Hrvatsku u tom Udruæenju

predstavljaju Daruvarske toplice iz Daruvara, koje sjedinjuju proπlost

i sadaπnjost ljeËiliπnog turizma.

Although life in spas is no longer the lavish never-ending holiday

it once was as testifi ed by numerous monuments of architecture

built at the time, and promenades, gardens and parks which are

still here to invigorate both mind and soul, in 2010 the Council of

Europe started the European Historic Thermal Towns Association

(EHTTA) initiative aimed at protecting, connecting and revalorising

historical thermal towns in Europe. Croatia’s representative in the

Association is Daruvarske Toplice in Daruvar, a historical thermal

spa where health tourism is growing by the day.Vila Arcadia,

Daruvarske toplice

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U drugoj polovici 19.stoljeÊa imuÊni su aristokrati i buræuji odmor, zdravlje i zabavu traæili u termalnim toplicama

diljem Europe. Bolesti kostiju i zglobova, koæni problemi i neplodnost, stres i rastrojenost æivaca i odmor od svakodnevice traæili su se i lijeËili u termalnim toplicama Bath u Engleskoj, Spa u Belgiji, nadaleko poznatim Ëeπkim toplicama Karlovy Vary, Mariánske Lázne, Frantiskovy Lázne, njemaËkim Baden-Baden i Wiesbaden i u hrvatskim termama u Daruvaru, Lipiku i Topuskom. Stanje je svuda bilo gotovo jednako: raskoπno ureπene kupaliπne zgrada s iskiÊenim bazenima, grandiozni hoteli debelih sagova i neËujne posluge, promenade za su-srete, traË partije i koncerte, perivoji za πetnje i razne igre, kasina kao zabava za dokone i preteËa avanturistiËkog sporta, koncertni paviljoni sred kultiviranih nasada, raskoπne kavane bogatog izbora slastica i gostionice s klasiËnom graanskom kuhinjom i pokojim Ëudotvornim i ljekovitim jelom ili sastojkom. Tijekom svog boravka u belgijskom ljeËiliπtu Spa 1781. car je Josip II. za to mjesto rekao da je Café of Europe. A ne Ëudi što je i naziv belgijskog mjesta poslije postao æanrovska odrednica te vrste ljeËiliπnog turizma. NajËeπÊi gosti toplica tad su bili plemiÊi koji bi putovali s obitelji, rodbinom, dragim prijateljima i pokojim gostom zaduæenim za razonodu, te slugama, guvernantama i kuÊnim uËiteljima. U toplicama se tad odvijao buran druπtveni æivot kao πto je to primjerice danas ljeti duæ jadranske obale. Iako je ljetni morski turizam potisnuo ladanjski oblik umjerenog æivota u toplicama, toplice u posljednje vrijeme sve viπe postaju en vogue. Toplice danas prvi put najËeπÊe posjeÊuju ljudi koji su tamo upuÊeni na rehabilitaciju nakon zdravstvenih problema, ali velik se postotak tih posjetitelja dragovoljno vraÊa kao redoviti gosti kojima toplice jednostavno gode. Iako su vremena raskoπnog æivota u toplicama davna proπlost, o kojima svjedoËe brojni spomenici arhitekture tog doba i perivoji i parkovi koji svojom dugovjeËnoπÊu krijepe duπu, VijeÊe Europe pokrenulo je 2010. godine inicijativu Udruæenje europskih povijesnih termalnih gradova (EHTTA) radi oËuvanja, povezivanja i revalorizacije povijesnih europskih termalnih toplica. Hrvatsku u tom Udruæenju predstavljaju Daruvarske toplice iz Daruvara, koje sjedinjuju proπlost i sadaπnjost ljeËiliπnog turizma. Ver-tebralni sindromi, upalne reumatske bolesti, degenerativne bolesti kraljeænice i zglobova, postoperativna, neuroloπka i ginekoloπka reha-bilitacija, rekreacija, novi tretmani mrπavljenja i wellness nadnaslovi su danaπnje suvremene ponude u Daruvarskim toplicama, a osnovni su prirodno ljekoviti faktori termalna voda i mine-ralno blato- fango.(www.daruvarske-toplice.hr)

Daruvarske toplice

Blatno kupaliπte/

Mud baths, Daruvarske toplice

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Kao i u ostalim toplicama Udruæenja europskih povijesnih termalnih gradova, i Daruvarske su toplice nastale u doba Rimskog Carstva. Prve su kaptaæe izvora ljekovite vode ureene 288.g.pr.Krista, a temperatura im je u prosje-ku 46,7 stupnjeva Celzijusa. Tadaπnji je naziv toplica Aquae Balissae (jaka vrela), a pozitivno i ljekovito djelovanje termalne vode, Rimljani su pripisivali moÊi svojih boæanstava, Silvanu, Dijani i Solu. Pisani dokumenti otkrivaju da su i Rimljani veÊ rabili vruÊe, tople i hladne kupke, te posebne prostorije za znojenje i masaæu. Postojali su i veÊi zajedniËki bazeni koje su koristili uglavnom vojnici za odmor i oporavak. Tijekom turskih osvajanja toplice su funkcioni-rale kao osmanlijska ilidæa, a znaËajan razvoj zbiva se dolaskom grofa Antuna JankoviÊa 1756., kojemu plemstvo dodjeljuje carica Marija Terezija. On je potaknuo kaptaæe izvora, gradnju novih bazena, a zatim i zgrada. Grof Antun JankoviÊ (1729. − 1789.) kupio je 1760.godine vlastelinstva Podborje, SiraË i Pakrac. BuduÊi da je sastavni dio obiteljskoga grba obi-telji JankoviÊ ædral, grof mijenja hrvatski naziv

Trg kralja Tomislava/

King Tomislav Square, Daruvar

Gradske vedute/ Cityscapes

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Podborje u Ædralov grad, odnosno maarski Daruvar, i svom imenu dodaje pridjevak de Da-ruvar. Grof Antun JankoviÊ bio je obrazovan i ugledan aristokrat, obnaπao je duænost velikog æupana Poæeπke æupanije, bio je predsjednik kraljevskog Stola sedmorice u Budimu i tajni savjetnik (Geheimrat) cara Josipa II. Jedan od najljepπih baroknih dvoraca Monarhije graen je od 1771. do 1777.godine u Daruvaru po njegovom nalogu. BuduÊi da je graen u obliku slova U, dvorac ima tri krila, a u prizemlju i na prvom katu smjeπteno je πezdeset soba. Glavni se salon, kao i nekada, danas rabi za koncerte i okruæen je nizom sveËanih reprezentativnih salona. Ispred juænog ulaza u dvorac grofa Antuna JankoviÊa dva su primjerka listopadnog drveta Ginko biloba - æenski i muπki primjerak porijeklom iz zapadne Kine. Nalaze se u dvor-skom perivoju koji je nastajao usporedno s gradnjom dvorca, a zavrπen je 1780. godine. To je najstarija vrsta drveÊa na Zemlji, koja postoji viπe od dvjesto milijuna godina. Drvo u Daruvaru najveÊe je i nastarije u Hrvatskoj, a drugo najstarije u Europi. Dvorac Daruvaru i danas podaruje identitet i snagu kontinuiteta. Od 1868. do 1870. dvorac je dao obnoviti grof Julije JankoviÊ, mijenjajuÊi bitno njegov izvorni izgled. Na glavnom ulazu dodana je altana sa stupovima te su u unutraπnjosti pregraene neke prostorije. Obnovu je vodio beËki arhitekt König, unutraπnje ureenje Julije Manstein, takoer iz BeËa. Interijeri dvorca s kraja 19. stoljeÊa saËuvani su na starim fotografijama. Julije JankoviÊ (1820. − 1904.) unuk je grofa Antuna JankoviÊa i istaknuo se uspjeπnim politiËkim djelovanjem, ali joπ viπe osnivanjem brojnih dobrotvornih zaklada i donacijama za Narodni muzej, Narodno kazaliπte, za osnivanje JAZU, a osnovao je i zaklade za πkolovanje mladiÊa na Kraljevskom πumarskom uËiliπtu u Kriæevcima. Zbog dugova grofovi su 1871./72. prodali sva svoja imanja, a dvorac su 1878. prodali Magdaleni Lechner, a ona Aloisu i Antonu Tüköryju. Oni 1905.godine vlastelin-stvo i dvorac prodaju Hrvatskoj poljodjelskoj banci, a 1920. kupila ga je opÊina Daruvar i u njemu smjestila πkolu. Obitelj se JankoviÊ nakon prodaje dvorca preselila u Austriju u Kreuzhoff na Achenskom jezeru. Ondje je 1904.godine preminuo grof Julije JankoviÊ kao posljednji muπki potomak obitelji. Iako je grof Julije JankoviÊ od silnog dobrotvorstva doæivio osobni bankrot, on i dalje æivi u jednom od najljepπih parkovnih perivoja Hrvatske - u Julijevom parku. Pomno odabrano i s ljubavlju i znanjem njegovano staro drveÊe jedno je od najdraæih mjesta veÊine gostiju Daruvarskih toplica. Snaga i starost, visina i postojanost ispune Ëovjeka kad se nae meu stablima starima i viπe od dvije stotine godina. VeÊina

posjetitelja uæiva najviπe u restoranu Terasa, gdje uz piÊe ili jelo odmaraju duπu zagledani u dugovjeËno drveÊe. Perivoji su uz dvorce nekoÊ bili najveÊi statusni simbol plemstva, ureivali su ih poznati i ugledni parkovni kre-atori tog doba tako da smire, ali povremeno lagano uznemire neoËekivanim obratom vizure. Park i danas odiπe bezvremenskim skladom i elegancijom. Prvo je drveÊe posadio joπ grof Antun JankoviÊ oko 1762.godine, a perivoj je rastao paralelno s gradnjom ljeËiliπnih kupki, osobito za vrijeme Antunovih nasljednika grofova Izidora i Julija JankoviÊa. Danas se u njemu nalazi πezdeset vrsta bilja. U perivoju nalazimo barokne cvjetne lijehe pravilnih oblika, koje svjedoËe o maru ljudske ruke i Ëovjekove teænje da prirodom ovlada i uresi je po svojoj maπti, i elemente engleskoga pejzaænog stila u kojemu se Ëovjekova intervencija sastoji u tome da pusti prirodu da bolje prodiπe i postane po-put bujnoga æenskog poprsja koje hrani mirom i staloæenoπÊu. To istiËe i ljepota bronËane puti AugustinËiÊeve KupaËice iz 1927.godi-ne. LjeËiliπni perivoj Julijev park zaπtiÊen je i u njemu se Ëovjek doista osjeÊa uronjen u neko proπlo vrijeme, osobito kad se nae okruæen i zgradama podignutim u vrijeme prvih vlasnika, kao πto je kupaliπna zgrada zvana Antunova kupka, koju je grof dao podiÊi 1762. godine, a sagradili su je makedonski majstori. U njoj se prvotno kupao obiËan puk, a ispred zgra-de izvor je tople ljekovite vode (43° C) i sluæi za piÊe. U perivoju su joπ Ivanova i Marijina kupka, a zanimljivoπÊu se istiËu ©vicarska vila sagraena 1860. godine kao ljetnikovac, vila Arcadia podignuta 1870. godine, a kao sim-bol toplica nametnula se zgrada centralnoga blatnog kupaliπta sagraena u maurskom stllu. Bazen je bio oploËen fajansom, a uz rub su bile kamene klupe za sjedeÊe kupke. Na sredini je bazena umjetna stijena od kamenih gromada, s hladnim vodenim mlazom za osvjeæenje.Osim po ljekovitoj vodi, Daruvar je najpoznatiji po pivu i vinu. Naselivπi daruvarsko podruËje Ëeπkim doseljenicima, grof JankoviÊ iskori-stio je njihovo poznato graditeljsko iskustvo u gradnji pivovare i tradicionalno umijeÊe u proizvodnji piva. Pivovara Daruvar ima tradi-ciju dugu 170 godina i najstarija je hrvatska pivovara, koja od osnivanja 1840. godine djeluje na istome mjestu. Ima i respektabilan brend − StaroËeπko pivo, koje imenom i stilom govori o tradiciji Ëeπkog pivarstva. Na temelju tradicije u proizvodnji piva i prirodno meke vode, daruvarsko pivo od poËetka je sliËno Ëeπkom pivu. Osim proizvodnog asortimana, Pivovara Daruvar izletnicima nudi organizi-rani obilazak pivovare uz vodstvo struËne osobe, kao i degustaciju StaroËeπkog piva. (www.starocesko.com) U Daruvaru æivi i najviše

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OPG KovaËeviÊ/

The KovaËeviÊ family farm and B&B

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Vinski salon, dvorac JankoviÊ/

The JankoviÊ castle wine salon

Julijin park/Julia’s Park Daruvarske toplice

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Vinski salon, dvorac JankoviÊ/

The JankoviÊ castle wine salon

Dani piva, Daruvarska pivovara/

Beer Days at the Daruvar Brewery

Daruvarska vinska cesta/

The Daruvar wine road

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»eha u Hrvatskoj, u gradu je i sjediπte »eske besedé, a Ëeπki se utjecaj njeguje i u lokalnoj kuhinji. Najpoznatiji su specijaliteti knedli s kiselim kupusom, krpice sa svjeæim kupusom, dizani knedli na pari, salenjaci i bramborak. Za vinopije daruvarski se kraj moæe preporuËiti kao mjesto ponude vrlo finih vina i sjajnog omjera kvalitete i cijene. Vrijedi krenuti Daru-varskom vinskom cestom i pomno je i polako istraæivati (www.vinskeceste-bbz.hr). Cesta povezuje sedam punktova koji spajaju najuda-ljenije dijelove grada, a tijekom πetnje uæiva se u pogledu na vinograde uz Ëaπu vina i u toplini dobrodoπlice. »ak je i prvi Vinski salon osnovan u Daruvaru 2012.godine, a u njemu se, uz ra-zna vina, kuπaju i sirevi lokalno proizvedeni od kravljega i kozjeg mlijeka. U proizvodnji sireva osobito se istiËu sirana Biogal i OPG Janeπ, a zainteresirani posjetitelji mogu ih obiÊi uz pret-hodnu najavu. Pravo ladanje moæe se iskusiti na etno imanju OPG KovaËeviÊ, na kojem veÊ u petoj generaciji uzgajaju vinovu lozu i prave svoja vina. Od bijelih vina KovaËeviÊevi nude graπevinu, chardonnay i mirisavi traminac, a od

crnih cabernet sauvignon i pinot crni. U blizini njihova vinograda tradicionalna je kuÊa tipiËna za daruvarski kraj, graena punom ciglom, a ukraπena je brojnim etno eksponatima. U dvokrevetnom apartmanu i dvokrevetnoj sobi moæe se otpoËinuti kao u stara vremena, uz starinski namjeπtaj i ruËno vezenu posteljinu i tu kao da se utjelovljuje moto TuristiËke zajed-nice grada − Daruvar voli æivot. Kratak je to i jednostavan poziv gostima da dou na obnovu zdravlja, okrepu duπe i dobru zabavu.

In the latter part of the 19th century, well-to-do aristocrats and bourgeoisie patronised thermal spas all over Europe in pursuit of

rest, wellbeing and entertainment. Bath in the UK, Spa in Belgium, the famous Czech spas in Karlovy Vary, Mariánske Lázne, Frantiskovy Lázne, and Baden-Baden and Wiesbaden in Germany, as well as the Croatian spas in Daruvar, Lipik and Topusko, all promised cure for bone and joint diseases, skin problems and infertility, relief from stress, nervous disorders and rest from the rat race of everyday life. The

scene in all those places was almost identical: splendid bathing buildings with ornate swim-ming pools, grand hotels with thick carpets and silent and discreet service, promenades where people could meet, chat, gossip and frequent concerts, parks for leisurely walks or games, casinos where the rich could pass their time, predecessors of adventure sports, pavilion-like buildings in manicured public gardens where concerts were held, lavish Viennese-style cafés whose patrons were spoiled for choice of con-fectioneries and restaurants serving typically local food, amongst which there was at least one particularly healthy dish or a medicinal ingredient with the promise of a miraculous cure. While staying in Spa in Belgium in 1781, Emperor Joseph II described the place as the Café of Europe. It is, thus, not surprising that the name of the Belgian resort was later ad-opted as the name for all such places and the descriptive term for a particular type of tourism. A typical spa patron was a member of nobility who travelled with relatives, dear friends and an occasional guest in charge of entertainment,

Daruvarsko vinogorje/

The Daruvar wine-growing region

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servants, nannies and teachers for their chil-dren. Spas were centres of a very vibrant social life, reminiscent of the summer scenes that can presently be witnessed along the Adriatic Coast. Although seaside tourism has replaced the more sedate lifestyle of countryside spas, thermal baths have been coming back into fashion as of recently. Today, the majority of spa-goers are people recovering from health problems, but a large percentage of them return as regulars because they simply like a spa holi-day! Although life in spas is no longer the lavish never-ending holiday it once was as testifi ed by numerous monuments of architecture built at the time, and promenades, gardens and parks which are still here to invigorate both mind and soul, in 2010 the Council of Europe started the European Historic Thermal Towns Association (EHTTA) initiative aimed at protecting, connect-ing and revalorising historical thermal towns in Europe. Croatia’s representative in the Associa-tion is Daruvarske Toplice in Daruvar, a historical thermal spa where health tourism is growing by the day. Vertebral syndromes, infl ammatory rheumatic diseases, degenerative spine and joint diseases, postoperative neurological and gynaecological rehabilitation, recreation, new weight loss treatments and wellness − these are the buzzwords of the current offer at Daruvar-ske Toplice, whose main medicinal ingredients from nature are thermal water and mineral mud or fango. (www.daruvarske-toplice.hr) Daruvarske Toplice shares its early history with many other EHTTA members. It was fi rst estab-lished during the Roman Empire. The sources of thermal water were fi rst fi tted out as early as 288 B.C. The average water temperature at source was 46.7 degrees Centigrade. The Romans built a settlement around the thermal water source and called it Aquae Balissae (strong sources). They attributed the positive and healing properties of thermal water to the powers of their gods Silvanus, Diana and Sol. Written documents reveal that Romans were aware of the benefi ts of hot and cold baths, and that they had special sweating and mas-sage rooms. There were larger common pools mostly used by soldiers who came to rest and recuperate in spas. During the Turkish onslaught, the spa functioned as an Ottoman ilidæa (warm thermal springs), with both the settlement and the spa experiencing a sig-nifi cant leap forward after 1756, the year of the arrival of Count Antun JankoviÊ, who had received his noble title from the Empress Maria Theresa. The Count encouraged the building of thermal water catchments, the construction of new pools and buildings. In 1760, Count Antun JankoviÊ (1729-1789) bought estates in Podborje, SiraË and Pakrac. Given that the

crest of the JankoviÊ family featured a crane, the Count changed the Croatian name of Podborje into Ædralov grad (Crane Town) or Daruvar in Hungarian, and added the new designation of de Daruvar to his family name. Count Antun JankoviÊ was a well-educated and prominent aristocrat; he held offi ce as the Great Prefect of the County of Poæega; he was president of the King’s chair of Seven in Buda and secret advisor (Geheimrat) to Emperor Joseph II. He commissioned one of the most beautiful baroque manors in the whole Mon-archy in Daruvar, which was then constructed between 1771 and 1777. Built in the shape of the U letter, the manor had three wings, and a combined count of sixty rooms on the ground and fi rst fl oors. The main salon, which has always been used as a concert room, is skirted by a string of smaller, elegant representative salons. Originating from western China, two deciduous Gingko Biloba trees, a male and female specimen, can be seen in front of the southern entrance to Count Antun JankoviÊ’s manor. They are part of the leafy promenade which was planted at the same time that the manor was constructed with its design fi nished in 1780. Having been around for over 200 mil-lion years, gingko trees are the oldest in the world. The one in Daruvar is the tallest and oldest tree in Croatia, and the second oldest in Europe. The manor in Daruvar is still what gives the whole region its identity, testifying to the continuity of human habitation. From 1868 to 1870, the manor underwent reconstruction under Count Julije JankoviÊ, who decided to change its original appearance. A portico with columns was added to the main entrance, and some of the rooms were partitioned off. The architect in charge of the reconstruction was master König from Vienna, while its interior design was entrusted to Julije Manstein, also from Vienna. The interior as it was in the late 19th century is depicted in old photos. Julije JankoviÊ (1820-1904), a grandson of Count Antun JankoviÊ, made a name for himself as a successful political activist, and even more so as a founder of many charitable foundations and a donor to the National Museum, National Theatre and a contributor to the foundation of the Yugoslav Academy of Sciences and Arts. He set up a charitable foundation for the education of boys at the Royal Forestry School in Kriæevci. Due to having generated large debts, the counts sold all of their prop-erties in 1871 and 1872, and so the manor was sold in 1878 to Magdalena Lechner, who subsequently sold it to Alois and Anton Tüköry. In 1905, they sold the manor to the Croatian Agricultural Bank and in 1920 it was purchased by the municipality of Daruvar and

Janica KosteliÊ, Daruvarske toplice

Dvorac JankoviÊ/

The JankoviÊ castle

Daruvarska pivovara/

The Daruvar Brewery

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turned into a school. Having sold the manor, the JankoviÊ family moved to Kreuzhoff by Achen Lake in Austria. That was where Count Julije JankoviÊ died in 1904 as the family’s last male heir. Although Count Julije JankoviÊ had to declare personal bankruptcy as a result of his philanthropy, he continues to live in one of the most beautiful parks in Croatia − Julije’s park. Carefully selected and nurtured with tender loving care, the old trees in the park are still the darlings of most guests of Daruvarske Toplice. Their power and age, their height and steadi-ness strike the spa’s guests with awe − some of the trees are over two hundred years old. What most visitors like to do is spend time at Terasa restaurant, resting their eyes on the old trees while enjoying mouth-watering refresh-ments. Besides manors, parks also used to be status symbols of the one-time nobility. They were designed and cultivated by famous and widely acclaimed park designers, who chan-nelled all their creative energies into embellish-ing the landscape with unexpected vistas. To this very day, the park in Daruvarske Toplice exudes immortal harmony and elegance. The fi rst trees were planted around 1762 by Count Antun JankoviÊ himself with the rest of the park continuing to grow with the construction of thermal baths, especially during the time of Antun’s successors, Counts Izidor and Julije JankoviÊ. At present, the park boasts 60 plant species. The baroque, regularly shaped fl ower beds testify to human diligence and desire to conquer nature and shape it according to human imagination; it also features so-called English garden elements, in which human in-tervention boils down to letting nature breath better allowing it to become very much like a generous bosom which nurtures with peace and composure. This is further highlighted by the beauty of the bronze complexion of Au-gustinËiÊ’s Bather sculpture from 1927. Julije’s Park is protected, and once there, surrounded by the buildings erected at the time of its fi rst owners, including the spa building known as Antun’s Bath which the Count had erected in 1762 by Macedonian masons, one feels truly immersed in the past. At fi rst, common people bathed there and drunk mineral water from the source in front (43°C). The park also features Ivan and Marija’s baths, as well as the intriguing Swiss Villa, built in 1860 as a summer house, and Villa Arcadia built in 1870. The spa symbol is the central mud bath building, constructed in the Moorish style. The swimming pool once displayed faience tiles, and was fl anked with stone banks for those who wanted to bathe in a seated position. In the centre of the pool, there was an artifi cial rockery made of huge stones with spurting cold water for refreshment.

Apart from mineral water, Daruvar’s other claims to fame are beer and wine. Having settled Czech émigrés in the region sur-rounding Daruvar, Count JankoviÊ used their brewery building experience and traditional beer brewing skills to start beer production. With a tradition spanning 170 years, Daruvar’s is the oldest Croatian brewery which has been brewing beer in the same place ever since its foundation in 1840. And it also owns a very respectable brand − StaroËeπko beer, whose name and style invoke the Czech beer brewing tradition. Owing to tradition and very soft water, the beer made in Daruvar reminds much of the Czech variety. The Da-ruvar Brewery welcomes visitors with the full range of their products on offer, as well as a guided tour of the brewery and free tastings of StaroËeπko beer (www.starocesko.com). Daruvar has the largest Czech population in Croatia. It is the seat of »eska beseda, with the Czech infl uences in the local cuisine being very prominent. The best known spe-cialties are dumplings with sauerkraut, pasta fl akes with cabbage, steamed dumplings, lard dough cookies and potato pancakes. Wine lovers will be interested to know that the Daruvar region is the home of some very good and reasonably priced wines. Taking and exploring the Daruvar wine road connecting seven posts in seven different parts of town will be worth one’s attention and time (www.vinskeceste-bbz.hr). During a stroll, one can savour the view of vineyards while sipping good wine and enjoying a warm welcome. The fi rst wine salon in Daruvar was opened in 2012. Besides wine, it offers tastings of locally produced cow and goat cheeses. The most prominent cheese makers, Biogal and the OPG Janeπ, offer prearranged tours of their production facilities. The ambiance of countryside living can be experienced at the KovaËeviÊ family’s estate where the fi fth generation has been involved in viticulture and wine making. The KovaËeviÊ’s offer includes white wines, Graπevina, Char-donnay and fl agrant Traminer, and reds, Cab-ernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. Close to their vineyard is a traditional house typical of the Da-ruvar region, built of thick brick and exhibiting numerous ethno decorations. Accommodation in the soothing peace and quiet of yesteryear is available in a two-bedroom apartment and a double room, with the rooms furnished with old furniture and hand-embroidered bed linen seeming to epitomise the motto of the Daruvar Tourist Board − Daruvar loves life. This is but a short and simple invitation to future guests to come and restore their health, reinvigorate their souls and have fun in the process.

Fontana na Trgu kralja Tomislava/

Fountain at King Tomislav Square

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■ MERIDIJANI MERIDIANS

Plaæa, Sanur/Sanur Beach

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Krajolik oko Ubuda s pogledom na vulkan Gunung Agung/

The Ubud landscape with a view of Gunung Agung volcano

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Malo Êe se tko, poe li na Bali, pohvaliti da putuje u Indonezi-ju. To je nesumnjivo najpoznatiji

od pribliæno 17.000 otoka najveÊe otoËne dræave na svijetu. Najmanja od njezine 34 administrativne provincije i jedinstven otok po autentiËnoj kulturi æivljenja, Bali je najvaænije indonezijsko turistiËko odrediπte, otkriveno joπ tridesetih godina proπloga stoljeÊa. PriËa o Baliju mogla bi se saæeti ovako: vulkani su mjesto bogova, plodna riæina polja zemlja ljudi, a ocean obitavaliπte demona i zlih duhova. Turizam je moæda donekle izmijenio redoslijed, no jedinstveno naËelo Balineæana, utemeljeno na naËelu Tri Hita Karana koje ljude, bogove i prirodu sjedinjuje u harmoniju supostojanja, svoj spektakularni odraz zrcali u edenskoj vizuri, samopouzdano se noseÊi s izazovima suvremenosti. Danas vjerojatno da i nema celebrityja koji se ne smijeπi s fotografi ja iz lobbyja luksuznih hotela, a poznati svjetski bestseller i neπto poslije fi lm Jedi, moli, voli na marketinπkom su planu uËinili svoje. Bali slovi kao mjesto osobite kulturne tradicije, umjetnosti, rukotvorstva, nadaleko poznat po Kecak i Legong plesovima uz pratnju gamelan orkestra. To je i otok bajkovitih pjeπËanih plaæa, rajskih zatona, veliËanstvenih zalazaka sunca, surfera, honeymoonera, profi njene estetike suvremenog oblikovanja i svjetskih hotelskih brandova. Dvojite li isplati li se potezati na drugi

Bali je najvaænije indonezijsko turistiËko odrediπte, otkriveno joπ

tridesetih godina proπloga stoljeÊa. PriËa o Baliju mogla bi se saæeti

ovako: vulkani su mjesto bogova, plodna riæina polja zemlja ljudi, a

ocean obitavaliπte demona i zlih duhova. Dvojite li isplati li se potezati

na drugi kraj svijeta ili je Bali samo jedan potroπeni, turistiËki must

see stereotip, sa sigurnoπÊu vam mogu reÊi: koliko god vremena

odluËili provesti na Baliju, bit Êe vam premalo.

Bali is the most important Indonesian tourist destination, which was

discovered in the 1930’s. The story about Bali could be summarized

as follows: its volcanoes are places of gods, its fertile rice fi elds are

home to its people and the ocean, the residence of demons and

evil spirits. If you are wondering whether it is worth travelling to the

other end of the world to experience all that or if Bali is just another

old and worn-out must-see tourist stereotype, there is one thing I

can tell you with certainty: however long you decide to stay in Bali,

it will simply not be enough.

Teks i fotografi je/Text and photos Saša PjaniÊ

kraj svijeta ili je Bali samo jedan potroπeni, tu-ristiËki must see stereotip, sa sigurnoπÊu vam mogu reÊi: koliko god vremena odluËili provesti na Baliju, bit Êe vam premalo. SlijeÊuÊi u meunarodnu zraËnu luku Ngurah Rai, jednim pogledom kroz avionski prozor moæe se obuhvatiti ono Ëemu bi kolokvijalno, vjerojatno najbolje, odgovarao naziv Perjani-ca turistiËke ponude Balija. PjeπËane plaæe, hramovi na vapnenaËkim klifovima o koje se razbija i pjeni tirkizni ocean, poznata surfi ng mjesta, dokovi za kruzere, ekskluzivni golfski tereni i luksuzni villas & spa resorti s najljepπim sunset terasama. Sve to nalazi se tek dvadese-tak minuta voænje u krugu oko zraËne luke, pa ako ste sluËajno australski vikendaπ i k tome joπ strastveni zaljubljenik u daskanje, moæete veÊ s aerodromskog praga, u aloha koπulji, shortsu i s daskom pod rukom namirisati dobre valove. A to se moæe cijele godine, jer temperature, s obzirom na blizinu ekvatora, uvijek se vrte oko tridesetke. No nepoπteno bi bilo taj zbijeni prostor izmeu obalnih strmaca poluotoka Bukit i rubova urbanog aglomerata Sanura, Denpasara i Kute samo tako progla-siti dosadnim, turistiËkim getom. Nae se tu zadovoljstva za svakoga, od pikantnih uliËnih satay raænjiÊa i jeftinih, treπtavih barova do πik restorana i penthouse bazena. A Ëesto baπ i nije lako opredijeliti se za sportski æivot na va-lovima ili ludi noÊni provod po diskoklubovima. No zbog navike da mnogi zaglave tek malo dalje od piste, treba reÊi da Bali nudi mnogo viπe svakome tko je spreman malo πvrljati po njemu. A otok zapravo i nije velik, barem kada je posrijedi njegova povrπina. U mediteranskim razmjerima svrstao bi se negdje izmeu Krete i Majorce. Ali po naseljenosti, s gotovo Ëetiri milijuna stanovnika u rangu je Sicilije ili, nama omiljene usporedbe, Hrvatske. Kao i veÊi dio Malajskog arhipelaga, Bali se nalazi u jednome od vulkanski najaktivnijih podruËja na Zemlji. Na sjeveru otoka dvije su ugasle kaldere s kraterskim jezerima Batur, Buyan, Beratan i Tamblingan i joπ nekoliko aktivnih stratovulkana oko njih. Kroz kratere prolaze glavni putovi koji povezuju prenaseljeni jug i pomalo uspavani sjever otoka. NajveÊi vulkan Balija jest tri tisuÊe metara visok stoæac Gunung Agunga, koji se uzdiæe istoËno od jezerskih kaldera. Balineæanski hindusi vjeruju da kroz njega prolazi srediπnja os svemira. Na padinama vulkanskog stoπca nalazi se Pura Besakih, najveÊi i najsvetiji hram na Baliju. Podignuto joπ davno prije pojave hinduizma u Indoneziji, svetiπte podsjeÊa na uzajamnu vezu drevnih otoËana i hirovite moÊi prirode. Fascinantan je podatak da je zbog posljednje erupcije 1963., gutajuÊi sve pred sobom, æitka lava, na samo nekoliko metara, zaobiπla ovo

Riæina polja, Subak sustav navodnjavanja/

Rice fi elds, Subak irrigation system

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sveto mjesto, ostavljajuÊi hram gotovo nedir-nutim. Od podnoæja hrama polazi jedan od dva trekerska uspona na vulkanski vrh. Spuπtanje prema moru, po otvrdnuloj, crnoj lavi obrasloj πumama i visokom travom, podsjeÊa pomalo na razmatanje klupka vremena, od najstarije geoloπke proπlosti do najrecentijeg turistiËkog developmenta. Balineæani su potomci austronezijskih doseljenika iz juæne Kine i jugoistoËne Azije, koji prije 4000 godina naseljavaju otok. Vjerovanja i obiËaje oblikovali su priroda i nedokuËivi svijet duhova, a tek poslije upotpunilo uËenje o dharmi koje iz Indije na Bali, stoljeÊima postupno, stiæe preko Jave.Veze Balija i susjedne Jave mnogo su dublje od nekoliko kilometara plitkog mora koje je prije desetak tisuÊa godina potopilo kontinentalni πelf i razdvojilo ta dva otoka. Ono πto danas, kroz glazbu, ples i kazaliπte najprije prepoznaje-mo kao autentiËnost Balija, svoje korijene vuËe s Jave. Nekoliko javanskih dinastija, s promje-njivom je sreÊom, nastojalo nametnuti svoj utje-caj starosjedilaËkom otoËnom stanovniπtvu. Sredinom 14. stoljeÊa monarsi i diplomati moÊnog carstva Majapahit, uz veÊ prethodno uspostavljane tazbinske veze balineæanskih i javanskih vladarskih kuÊa, uspijevaju Bali podloæiti svom trajnom utjecaju. Namjesniπtvo novog kralja Dewe Agunga u prijestolnici Gel-get, nedaleko od grada Semarapura, sljedeÊih Êe nekoliko stoljeÊa jamËiti pokornost ostalih otoËkih kraljevstava. No kad jednom smrkne, drugom svane, pa je tako nekoÊ moÊno car-stvo indonezijskog arhipelaga, u postupnom uzmicanju pred πirenjem sultanata, potkraj 15. stoljeÊa konaËno i prestalo postojati. Preostala javanska elita utoËiπte je pronaπla na Baliju, a sada potpuno samostalno kraljevstvo Gelget u 16. Êe stoljeÊu doæivjeti pravu renesansu. Batik, gamelan i lutkarsko kazaliπte sjenki, uz mnoštvo hramova koji niËu svuda po otoku, æivi su podsjetnici toga doba. Percepcija Balija kao rajskog vrta, zasluga je vrhunskog majstorstva pejzaæne arhitekture, a to je, opet prema tripartitnom shvaÊanju skla-da, zajedniËko djelo i bogova i prirode i ljudi. Zbog plodnog vulkanskog tla, obilja topline i znatne koliËine padalina koje svoj maksimum doseæu s prvim mjesecima kalendarske godi-ne, tropska fl ora buja po Ëitavom otoku. Darove s neba i iz utrobe zemlje otoËani prihvaÊaju s ritualnom zahvalnoπÊu, a povlasticu slave kroz oËovjeËeni sustav ekoloπke odræivosti i jedin-stvenu estetiku krajolika koju je kao svjetsku baπtinu prepoznao i UNESCO. Subak je naziv za drevni sustav kontrole navodnjavanja, koji se moæe naÊi samo na Baliju, a stoljeÊima je veÊ temelj poljodjelstvu i skladnom odnosu ljudi i njihova okoliπa. Slivno podruËje pojedinog subaka tvori fi na mreæa kanala, tunela i brana

koja πume, izvore, riæina polja i naselja povezuje u zatvoreni krug. U njegovom srediπtu nalazi se Pura tirta ili vodeni hram, iz kojega, raspo-djelom vode po terasama, upravlja hramski sveÊenik. Sagraen prije viπe od tisuÊu godina, sustav je joπ u upotrebi.Raskoπ i ljepotu ruralnog Balija najizravnije se moæe doæivjeti u gradiÊu Ubudu i njegovoj oko-lici. Smjeπten tridesetak kilometara od obale, usred gustih πuma i riæinih polja, na plodnom vulkanskom tlu, Ubud je veÊ dulji niz godina središte alternativnog turizma. Drugim rijeËi-ma, kome god dosadi plaæa i vreva noÊnoga provoda, dolazi upravo na ovo mjesto. I joπ neπto. U Ubud se zaljubljuje na prvu, a iz njega se ne odlazi baπ lako. Popis aktivnosti kojima se ovdje moæe ispuniti vrijeme poveÊi je, od joge do teËaja plesa i kuhanja, a razne izloæbe, umjetniËke kolonije, seminari i radionice Ëine ga kulturnom Mekom otoka. Uostalom, svijet je i upoznao Bali zahvaljujuÊi umjetnicima. Sve je poËelo 1927., nakon kaosa Velikog rata, kada njemaËki slikar Walter Spies, traæeÊi red i smi-sao na istoku, dolazi u Ubud. U njemu Êe ostati do tragiËne smrti, u spletu nesretnih okolnosti u poËetku japanske okupacije. Taj je umjetnik, uz Meksikanca Miguela Covarrubiasa i ameriËke antropologe Margaret Mead i Gregoryja Bate-sona, najËeπÊe isticana liËnost kada je rijeË o pribliæavanju Balija zapadnoj kulturnoj svijesti. Osim predanoga slikarskog rada, Spies je bio priznati erudit i kolekcionar znanja o razliËitim aspektima balineæanske kulture, umjetnosti, etnografi je i povijesti. Uzajamnom suradnjom i suæivotom s domaÊim umjetnicima, neizmjerno je utjecao na razvoj moderne balineæanske umjetnosti te osnovao Muzej Balija, kojemu je bio i kurator. UmjetniËka scena u Ubudu i duhovna klima razmjene i stvaralaπtva vrhunac proæivljava potkraj tridesetih kada je Bali veÊ postao omiljeno mjesto poznatih i slavnih. I tako je zvijezda roena, a put njezinoj slavi poploËen i utaban. Za nepuna tri desetljeÊa Bali Êe postati jedno od najglasovitijih turi-stiËkih odredišta, ovjenËano titulom tropskog raja u kojemu je sve u znaku ljepote i sklada s prirodom.Razni umjetniËki obrti, uza slikarstvo, vrlo su unosan oblik zarade za odredište koje godiπnje posjeti viπe od tri milijuna ljudi. ©ira okolica Ubuda prava je mala ruralna aglomeracija na-selja koja se jedno za drugim niæu po zelenim padinama, ispresijecanim bistrim potocima i stazama za hodanje. Gdje zavrπava jedno, a poËinje drugo selo, najËeπÊe se moæe raspo-znati tek po vrsti rukotvorina izloæenih ispred galerija i radionica. Rezbarije, drveni namjeπtaj, nakit, skulputure, maske. Jalan, jalan, kako bi se to veÊ reklo u Indoneziji ili samo hodaj niz ulicu i Ëut Êeπ kako vjetrena zvona polako

Nusa Lembongan, pjeπËana plaæa/sandy beach

Flora

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Kuta Beach, zalazak Sunca/

Sunset over Kuta Beach

Ruralni prizor/Rural view

Sanur, obredna ceremonija/

Sanur − religious ceremony

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Kuta Beach, surfer/

Surfer on Kuta Beach

Campuhan Ridge, Ubud

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prelaze u kvrcanje dlijeta o kamen. Ali nemojte veÊ nakon nekoliko ulica traæiti najbliæi warung radi slasnog zalogaja u palminom listu ili pitkog i jeftinog indonezijskog piva. Iskuπajte najprije svoje hikerske i bikerske moguÊnosti, a ako vam to baπ i ne ide, skitanje po okolici moæete nastaviti iznajmljenim skuterom ili bemom, simpatiËnim lokalnim, javnim prijevozom Ëija Êe vas voænja podsjetiti da su Balineæani stra-stveni ljubitelji borbi pijetlova. Obiite svakako Kraljevsku palaËu Peliatan u Ubudu i neπto dalje u Padangtegalu, hram Dalem Agung u ©umi majmuna. PjeπaËenje po Campuhan Ridgeu obvezno! Kroz visoku travu i zelene pristranke, obrasle palmama i tikovinom do u maπti zasijanih nasada riæe i kave. Ako vam nije dosta i mislite da moæe i bolje, znajte da moæe. Ovisi samo o tome pouzdajete li se u svoje tabane ili slijedi voænja. Svakako, savjet je da produæite dalje, do sela Tegalalang i po-znatih riæinih terasa. U blizini je Pura tirta Empul, vodeni hram i mjesto hodoËaπÊa, koje neÊete zaobiÊi. Ima tu joπ svega; špilja, slapova, jeze-ra, svjeæih brzica, hramova i opet riæinih polja. I, dakako, prekrasnih villas and spa i boutique hotela. Da, to su one fotografi je s infi nity edge bazenima usred praπuma, koje se redovito pojavljuju na internetskim stranicama top 20 najljepπih mjesta na svijetu. Jeste li znali da kopi luwak, najskuplja kava na svijetu, koja se præi od neprobavljenih zrna iz cibetkina izmeta, potjeËe iz Indonezije? Gutljaj vrele delicije, koja na zapadu doseæe cijenu i do 50 dolara po πalici, za prihvatljiv me iznos, u jednoj od ubudskih kavana, ponovno vratio u ne baπ davno vrijeme. Kao i Ëaj u Indiji, uzgoj kave u Indoneziji velikim je dijelom uspomena na kolonijalnu proπlost. PriËe kaæu da su prvi Europljani koji su s paluba karake ugledali rajski otok bili veÊ veoma prorijeena posada Magellanove ekspedicije. Nakon pogibije slavnog Portugalca koji je u sluæbi Karla ©pa-njolskog trebao oploviti svijet, jedini preostali jedrenjak veÊ se bio okrenuo prema Rtu dobre nade kada je sluËajno plovio uz Bali pa od tog susreta vjerojatno i nije ostalo mnogo viπe osim πturih natuknica u brodskom peljaru. Prvi doπljaci sa Starog Kontinenta, koji su se iskrcali na otok, bili su ponovno sunarodnjaci slavnog admirala. Portugalski guverner Malaje 1585. πalje trgovaËku misiju na Bali no brod se razbija o stijenu, a samo pet sretnika uspijeva isplivati na kopno. Desetak godina poslije, u sliËnoj Êe misiji na otok stiÊi i nizozemski pustolov Cornelis de Houtman pa izmeu ostaloga izvijestiti da su portugalski brodolom-ci, sad veÊ u sluæbi gelgelskog kralja, dobro i da, oæenjeni Balineæankama, ne namjeravaju napustiti otok. Ne, to uopÊe nije izmiπljotina, premda je nevjerojatno koliko daleko i precizno

Stjenovita obala juænog Balija/

South Bali rocky coastline

Tradicionalni balineæanski ribarski Ëamci/

Traditional Balinese fi shermen’s boats

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Ubud, Kraljevska palaËa/

King’s Palace

Suvenirnica /

Souvenir shop

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izvjeπtaj pretkazuje buduÊnost. U 17. i 18. stoljeÊu Nizozemci kod kuÊe ratuju s morem, a drugdje viπe manje sa svima, ©panjolcima, Englezima, javanskim i malajskim sultanima, Portugalcima, Francuzima. Zlatno doba nije bilo ni pribliæno mirno, no mlada i poduzetna kraljevina uspijeva skrπiti portugalski monopol u Malaji, utemeljivπi 1619. na otoku Javi svoju kolonijalnu prijestolnicu Bataviju, buduÊu Jakartu. I dok najmoÊnijom mornaricom toga doba IstoËnoindijska kompanija kontrolira svjetske putove zaËina, Bali ostaje u zavjetrini velikih zbivanja. Situacija se stubokom mijenja sredinom 19. stoljeÊa. Nizozemske kolonijalne vlasti æele proπiriti upravu na cijeli indonezijski arhipelag. SlijedeÊi formulu divide et impera, iskoriπtavaju neslogu balineæanskih monarha, kako bi zaposjeli Ëitav otok. Iz uporiπta u Sin-garaji na sjeveru otoka poduzimaju viπe vojnih intervencija, pokoravajuÊi kraljevstvo po kra-ljevstvo. Stradanje juænih kraljevina Tabanana i Badunga 1906. zorno je opisano u romanu Ljubav i smrt na Baliju, austrijske autorice svjetski poznatih bestselera Vicki Baum. Vijesti o krvavim ærtvama kraljeva i njihovih vojski, koji odbijaju predaju te u ime Ëasti, goloruki ili samo s noæevima u ruci juriπaju na nizozem-ske bataljone, putuju svijetom. Dogaaj nije mogao proÊi bez odjeka, kao ni Nizozemska bez osude. Pred oËima javnosti brutalnost tog Ëina nikakao se nije mogla uklopiti u miroljubivu politiku razvoja kolonija, koju su zagovarali liberalni parlamentarci. Ali zanimljivo je to da, potaknuti kritikom javnosti, Nizozemci pokreÊu πiroku kampanju modernizacije Balija usmjere-nu restauraciji i oËuvanju izvornih vrijednosti. Loπ medijski imidæ o sebi Nizozemci mijenjaju dobrim imidæem Balija o æivuÊemu muzeju koji bi svatko trebao posjetiti. I tu se krug ponovno zatvara. Nitko ne zna toËan broj hramova na Bali-ju. Kaæu da ih ima isto toliko koliko i ljudi. Hramovi su mnogo viπe od mjesta obreda i πtovanja. Oni su prave male radiopostaje za komunikaciju sa svijetom duhova. Vjerovanje u duhove zapravo je temelj religiozne svijesti Indoneæana, mnogo stariji od hinduizma koji je na arhipelag stigao iz Indije. Nevidljivi svijet Balija veoma je bogat, od duhova predaka do personificiranih sila prirode. Skladna ravnoteæa odnosa u nepredvidivom i uzbur-kanom teatru hyanga, za Balineæane je vaænija Ëak i od tipiËnog vedskog uËenja o selidbi duπe. Proæimanje hinduizma s animizmom najbolje se vidi u Ëinu darivanja. U malu koπaricu od suhog palminog lista briæljivo se polaæu riæa, zaËini, duhan i pokoja rupija, a napunjeni canga sari s mirisnim se πtapiÊima zatim prinosi boæanstvu u hramu, na ulici ili kuÊnom oltaru. Organizacija prostora stano-

vanja takoer podlijeæe duhovnim naËelima. Koncept stanovanja na Baliju ne poznaje jedan objekt pod Ëijim se krovom nalaze svi stambeni sadræaji. Kao i kod hramova i palaËa, osnovu strukture tvori dvoriπte omeeno zi-dom i posebno ukraπenim ulaznim dverima, unutar kojega se, odvojeni, redaju sobe, dnev-ni boravak, blagovaonica, ostava i kuhinja. Vaænost prostora raste izvana prema unutra, a najvaæniji je srediπnji dio, gdje se nalazi kuÊni hram. Prostorije tvore paviljoni od dr-venih stupova, prekriveni slamnatim krovom, i zidane nastambe, obiËno spavaonice od terakote i kamena. Svu ljepotu i ugodu takvog stanovanja najbolje Êete iskusiti odsjednete li u homestay domaÊinstvima, omiljenoj i jefti-noj inaËici smjeπtaja na Baliju. Tradicionalna estetika stanovanja posebno je mjesto naπla u suvremenoj arhitekturi i dizajnu. Prepoznatljivi balinežanski stil svjetski je dizajnerski brend oblikovanja prostora i namjeπtaja s naglaskom na egzotiËnom skladu i estetici tropskih ma-terijala. Bungalovi, kuÊe, vile i hoteli natjeËu se u neprestanom obnavljanju oËito vjeËnog trenda, a mnogi posjetitelji svoje kuÊe i sta-nove opremaju namjeπtajem kupljenim na Baliju. Uz carine i brodsku poπiljku, cijene su joπ znatno niæe nego na zapadu.Balineæanska kuhinja nudi sve osim kravljeg mesa. Jela su bogata najraznovrsnijm namir-nicama, zaËinima, marinadama i umacima. Nasi campur s Balija tipiËan je sloæenac od pomalo svega; riæe, tune, tofua, raænjiÊa, po-vrtnog curryja, krastavaca i lawara, mjeπavine nasjeckanog peËenja s Ëeπnjakom, Ëilijem, kokosovim orahom, limunskom travom ili citrusima. Umotan u palmin list, uobiËajeno je jelo koje se sluæi u restoranima i omiljenim warung-zalogajnicama. Tu je i tempeh, poznati indonezijski odrezak od fermentirane soje, povrtna sayur juha s tamarindom te pikantni sambal umaci. I preko tanjura evo nas opet do mora. Nekad rub svijeta, prepuπten hiru valova i morskih demona, Bukit je danas najveÊa zona intenzivnog razvoja turistiËke industrije Balija, gdje je svaki pedalj zemlje i viπe nego drago-cjen. Benoa, Nusa Dua, Uluwatu ili Pandang taksistima najprije oznaËava toËan smjer za neki od svjetski poznatih resorta, a tek onda mjesni toponim. Blizina zraËne luke, Ëija pista doslovce presijeca najpoznatije plaæe Balija, ne smeta da vile i hoteli cijele godine budu dobro popunjeni. Uz obilje suhog vremena, visoka se-zona na Baliju traje od poËetka srpnja do kraja rujna, kada su i cijene najviπe. Plaæa Jimbaran dugi je pjeπËani æal duæ zapadnog ruba uske prevlake πto poluotok Bukit povezuje s ostat-kom Balija. Povoljna orijentacija jamËi spekta-kularne zalaske sunca, a taj se fenomen, uz dodatni sadræaj, ovdje uvijek dobro unovËuje.

VapnenaËki klifovi, juæna obala/

Limestone cliffs on the southern coast of Bali

Prikaz demona/

Demonic image

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Svakog dana, veÊ u kasno poslijepodne, krcati stolovi zamjenjuju kupaËe i surfere. Cijela se plaæa pretvara u veliki riblji restoran pod vedrim nebom, koji rujnoπÊu sutona i skupim vinskim kartama, mami sungazere iz obliænjih hotela. Uz rumeni balon πto tone u ocean, sit i zado-voljan, shvatio sam da mi je jasno zaπto je Bali tako primamljiv i opojan, premda odgovora na to pitanje zapravo i nemam. Bali je jednostavno Bali i dugo Êe joπ biti tako. Je li Bali slavan samo zato πto je dalek i neobiËan? Zato πto je egzotiËan? I πto je to uopÊe egzotika? Tek stanje svijesti i moguÊnost koja nas nagoni na putovanja. Na kraju, πto bi bila egzotika za Balineæana, Alpe, snijeg ili pustinja?

Very few of those travelling to Bali would consider bragging about going to Indonesia, the largest island state

in the world, even though Bali is certainly the most famous island out of the 17,000 islands it approximately has. The smallest of its 34 administrative provinces and unique in terms of its authentic culture of life. Bali has been most important Indonesian tourist resort ever since it was fi rst discovered in 1930 ’s. Tourism has somewhat changed the order of things, albeit ever so slightly, because the unique principle honoured by the population of Bali is based

Dnevni boravak/

Living room

Rukotvorine/ Handicraft

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on the Tri Hita Karana principle which unites people, gods and nature into a harmonious coexistence, refl ected in the spectacular Eden-like vistas which defy the challenges of moder-nity with unfaltering self-confi dence. There is probably no single celebrity in the world whose face has not smiled at you from the photos hung in the lobbies of luxury hotels, while world bestsellers turned blockbuster movies of the Eat, Pray, Love variety, have played their part in the promotion of the island. Bali enjoys the reputation of being a place of exceptional cultural tradition, art and handicraft; Kecak and Legong dances are accompanied by widely famous gamelan orchestras. This is an island of fairytale sandy beaches, paradise bays, splendid sunsets, surfers, honeymooners, of a refi ned aesthetic offered by modern design and global hotel brands. As you land at Ngu-rah Rai International airport, it takes just one brief look through the aircraft window to see everything that could be best described as the fl agship of Bali’s tourist offer: sandy beaches, temples scattered on limestone cliffs with foaming waves of the turquoise ocean breaking against them, acclaimed surfi ng spots, docks for large cruise ships, exclusive golf grounds, luxurious villas and spa resorts whose terraces command the most spectacular sunset views. All this is only a 20-minute-drive away, within an easy reach of the airport, so if you happen to be an Australian weekend tourist and a passionate surfer on top of that, you will be able to smell the good waves already at the exit from the airport, wearing your aloha shirt, shorts and carrying a surf board under your arm, which you can do the whole year round because temperatures are always around 30 degrees Celsius owing to the island’s vicinity to the Equator. But it would be really unfair to proceed recklessly and proclaim this com-pressed area between the coastal slopes of the Bukit peninsula and the fringes of the urban conglomerates of Sanura, Denpasara and Kuta a boring tourist ghetto. There is something to please everybody here, from spicy satay sticks sold in the street and cheap noisy bars to chic restaurants and penthouse swimming pools with a view. Very often the choice between an active life on the waves and a rambunctious night out on the town is not easy to make. It should be said not only for the sake of the many who have not treaded very far from the airport runway, but for everybody else, that Bali offers so much more to all who are prepared to go a bit further afi eld and explore. The island is actually not big, at least in terms of size. From a Mediterranean perspective, it would fall some-where between Crete and Majorca. In terms of population, however, with nearly 4 million

Svakodnevno prinoπenje darova duhovima/

Daily offerings to the spirits

Obred prinoπenja darova duhovima u hramu/

Ceremonial offering to the temple spirits

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Balineæanski hinduistiËki hram/ Balinese Hindu temple

Ples Barong/

Barong dance

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inhabitants, it is on par with Sicily, or Croatia − our favourite grounds for comparison.As most of the Malayan Archipelago, Bali is among some of the world’s most volcani-cally active places. Two extinguished calderas with crater lakes: Batur, Buyan, Beratan and Tamblingan and some other old volcanoes around them are in the north of the island. Running through these craters are two main roads which connect the overpopulated south with the somewhat sleepy northern part. The biggest volcano on Bali is the three-thousand-metre high cone of Gunung Agung, which rises to the east of the caldera lakes. The Balinese Hindu population believes that the central axis of the universe goes right through it. Pura Besakih, the biggest and most holy temple on Bali is located on the slopes of the volcanic cone. Erected long before Hinduism appeared in Indonesia, the sacred temple evokes the mutual connection that existed between the ancient inhabitants of the island and the capricious powers of nature. It is a fascinating piece of trivia that during the last eruption in 1993, the viscous lava, consuming everything on its way down the slope, missed this sacred place by mere metres leaving the temple virtually intact. One of the two trekking trails to the top of the volcano starts from the foot of the temple. A descent to the sea, along hardened black lava terrain overgrown with forest and high grass feels like travelling through time, from the most ancient geological past to the most recent tourist development. The Balinese are descendants of Austronesian immigrants from Southern China and South-Eastern Asia who settled on the island 4,000 years ago. Their beliefs and customs were shaped by nature and the unfathomable world of spirits, and only later completed by Dharma, teachings which took centuries to move from India to Bali across Java. The links between Bali and neighbouring Java are much deeper than the shallow sea of several kilometres wide that fl ooded the continental shelf some ten thou-sand years ago and separated the two islands. What is recognized today as authentic in Ba-linese music, dance and theatre, has its roots on Java. Several Javanese dynasties tried to impose their infl uence on the indigenous Balinese population with mixed luck. In the mid-14th century, the monarchs and diplomats of the powerful Majapahit Empire managed to subjugate Bali permanently owing to the previ-ously established family ties between Balinese and Javanese ruling dynasties. For the next several centuries, the regency of the new king Dewa Agung in the crown city of Gelget, not far from Semarapur, guaranteed the obedience

of other island kingdoms. One man’s dusk is another man’s dawn as the saying goes, so the formerly powerful empire in the Indonesian ar-chipelago slowly receded before the expansion of the sultanates and fi nally stopped existing in the late 15th century. What remained of the Javanese elite found sanctuary on Bali and the fully independent Gelget kingdom experienced a true renaissance in the 16th century. Batik, gamelan, the puppet shadow theatre and the vast number of temples that mushroomed all over the island are a living memento of that era.Bali owes its perception as a paradise gar-den to the supreme mastery of landscape architecture; according to the tripartite per-ception of harmony, this is a joint endeavour of gods, nature and humans. Owing to the fertile volcanic soil, warm weather and ample precipitation, which reaches its peak during the fi rst months of the calendar year, tropical fl ora abounds all over the island. The island-ers receive gifts from the sky and the belly of the earth with ritual gratitude and celebrate the privilege through a humanized system of ecological sustainability and unique aesthetics of the landscape which has been recognized by UNESCO and declared a world heritage site. Subak is the name given to the ancient system of irrigation which can be found only on Bali. It has been the foundation of agriculture and harmonious relationship between people and their environment for centuries. A subak catchment area constitutes a delicate network of canals, tunnels and dams which connect forests, water sources, rice fi elds and settle-ments into a closed circle. In its centre is Pura tirta, or a water temple, which is managed by a temple priest who distributes water across terraces. Built several thousand years ago, the system is still in use. The lavish beauty of rural Bali can be best ex-perienced in the town of Ubud and its environs. Located some thirty kilometres from the coast, amidst thick forest and rice fi elds, on fertile volcanic soil; for a number of years Ubud has been the centre of alternative tourism. In other words, those who get tired of the beaches and noisy nightlife come here. The story goes on. They fall in love with Ubud at fi rst glance and fi nd it hard to say goodbye. A list of activities to pass the time here is rather long and includes yoga, dance courses and cooking lessons while various exhibitions, art colonies, semi-nars and workshop make Ubud the island’s cultural Mecca. Indeed, the world fi rst got to know Bali thanks to artists. It all started in 1927, after the chaos of the Great War, when German painter Walter Spies, turning to the East in search for order and sense, arrived in Ubud. He stayed there until his tragic death,

Ulazna vrata u hram/

Temple entrance door

Nusa Lembongan, bungalovi/bungalows

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in a whirlwind of tragic circumstances at the beginning of Japanese occupation. This artist, together with the Mexican Miguel Covarrubias and American anthropologists Margaret Mead and Gregory Bateson, are most commonly brought up as those who have brought Bali closer to Western cultural consciousness. Besides being dedicated to his art, Spies was also a well recognized erudite and collector of knowledge in various aspects of Balinese culture, art, ethnography and history. Through mutual cooperation and living together with local artists, he exerted an immeasurable infl u-ence on the development of modern Balinese art and founded the Museum of Bali where he served as curator. The art scene in Ubud and the spiritual climate of exchange and creativity saw their peek at the end of the 30’s when Bali became the favourite place of the good and great. Thus, a star was born and the path to its ultimate glory was paved. In less than three decades, Bali became one of the most famous tourist destinations, crowned with the glory of being a tropical paradise where everything was about beauty and harmony with nature.Various artistic crafts, in addition to fi ne art, are an extremely lucrative source of income for a destination which records over 3 million visitors a year. The environs of Ubud are a true agglomeration of little rural settlements which follow each other back to back across green slopes, intersected by transparent rivulets and trekking trails. Where one village ends, another begins, and the boundary between the two can be discerned only by the type of handicraft exhibited in front of the galleries and workshops. Woodcraft, wooden furniture, jewellery, sculptures, masks. Jalan, jalan − In-donesian for just keep on walking down the road and you will hear wind chimes slowly becoming the sound of a stone rapping chisel. But do not start looking for the closest warung in pursuit of a delicious snack in a palm leaf or a smooth-running and cheap Indonesian bear after just a few streets. First, put your hiking or biking abilities to the test. If that does not suit you, continue exploring the area on a rented scooter or by bem, a quirky means of local public transportation which will remind you that the Balinese are passionate fans of cook fi ghts. Make sure to visit the Royal Pal-ace Peliatan in Ubud and Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, the Great Temple of Death in the Sacred Monkey Forest somewhat further afi eld. A walk on Campuhan Ridge is a must! Through high grass and green slopes covered with palm and teak trees, to rice and coffee bean fi elds planted by the most vivid imagina-tion. If this is not enough, and if you think you can do even better than that, you are right. All

depends on whether you can rely on the soles of your feet or on transportation. In any case, a good tip would be to go on, to Tegelang vil-lage and the famous rice terraces there. Not far is Pura tirta Empul, a water temple and a place of pilgrimage which you cannot forgo. There is a lot more to see: caves, waterfalls, lakes, torrents, temples, more rice fi elds and of course, beautiful villas and spa and boutique hotels. Yes, these are the photos depicting infi nity edge water pools in the middle of virginal forests regularly featured on internet pages as the top 20 most beautiful places in the world. Did you know that kopi luwak, the most ex-pensive coffee in the world, which is made from coffee berries digested and defecated by the Asian civet originates from Indonesia? A reasonably priced sip of the hot beverage, which can normally set you back as much as 50 US dollars a cup, set me on a journey down memory lane in one of Ubud’s cafes. Just like tea in India, coffee growing in Indonesia is largely a memento to the colonial past. Legend has it that the fi rst Europeans who spotted the paradise island from the deck of their karaka were members of Magellan’s crew whose number had seriously dwindled by then. Their last remaining sailboat had already turned towards Cape Horn when it chanced upon Bali. Not much more remains of that sighting than a sparse entry in the sailboat’s logbook. The fi rst settlers from the Old Continent who disembarked on the island were again the famous admiral’s fellow-nationals. In 1585, the Portuguese governor of Malaya sent a trade mission to Bali but their ship collided with a rock. Only fi ve fortunate sailors managed to swim to shore. Some ten years later, a Dutch adventurer, Cornelis de Houtman, arrived on the island on a similar mission and reported, amongst other things, that the shipwrecked Portuguese sailors, already serving the Gelgel king, were doing well, that they had married Balinese women and showed no intention of leaving the island. No, this is not a fabrication, although it is uncanny how farsighted and pre-cise this report was in forecasting the future. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the Dutch waged war with the sea at home, and with more or less everybody else abroad, the Spaniards, the English, the Javanese and Malayan sultans, the Portuguese, and the French. The golden era was anything but peaceful. The young and entrepreneurial kingdom managed to crush the Portuguese monopoly in Malaya and in 1619 established Batavia, future Jakarta on the island of Java, the seat of its colonies. While the most powerful navy of the time, the East India Company, was in fi rm control of the global spice trade, Bali remained on the lee side of

Riæina polja u okolici Ubuda/

Rice fi elds around Ubud

Balineæanska primijenjen umjetnost, kiparstvo/

Balinese applied art - sculpture

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major developments. The situation changed signifi cantly in the mid-19th century. The Dutch colonists wanted to extend their control across the entire Indonesian archipelago. By follow-ing the formula divide et impera, they profi ted from the discord among Balinese monarchs to occupy the entire island. From the strong-hold in Singaraj in the north of the island, they embarked on several military campaigns and subjugated one kingdom after the other. The sufferings of the southern kingdoms of Tabanan and Badung in 1906 were vividly described in the novel Love and Death in Bali by the Austrian bestseller author Vicki Baum. The news of the bloody sacrifi ces of the kings and their armies who refused to surrender and charged against Dutch battalions with bare hands or nothing else but knives in their hands all in the name of honour, travelled the globe. The event could not go unnoticed, and the Netherlands could not go unpunished. Before the eyes of the public, the brutality of their action could not be nicely packaged as the peaceful policy of colonial development as advocated by liberal parliamentarians. Interest-ingly enough, inspired by public criticism, the

furniture purchased in Bali. Even with duties at customs and freight costs added to the actual price paid for the furniture, the outlays are still lower than in the West. Balinese cuisine offers everything but cow meat. Dishes are made with a vast variety of ingredients and abound in spices, marinades and sauces. Balinese Nasi campur is a ubiq-uitous mixture of a little bit of everything: rice, tuna, tofu, skewers, vegetable curry, cucum-bers and lawar, a mixture of cut roast meat with garlic, chilli, coconut milk, walnut, lemon grass or citrus fruit. Wrapped in a palm tree leaf, it is a staple on the menus of restaurants and typical warung diners. There is also tempeh, a popular Indonesian dish made of fermented soya, vegetable sayur soup with tamarind and spicy sambal sauces. Once again, we have reached the sea journeying via food. Once on the edge of the world, abandoned to the whimsical nature of sea waves and sea demons, Bukit is today the largest zone of intense tourist development in Bali where every foot of the land is almost priceless. To taxi drivers, Benoa, Nusa Dua, Uluwatu or Pandang are, fi rst and foremost, directions to one of the globally renowned tourist resorts and then, local place names. The vicinity of the airport, whose runway literally intersects the most famous beaches in Bali, does not bother guests of the villas and hotels which are rather well occupied the whole year round. Owing to good weather, the high season in Bali goes on from mid-July to the end of Septem-ber, when the prices are also at their highest. Jimbaran beach is a long sandy lagoon along the western edge of the narrow ridge connect-ing the Bukit peninsula with the rest of Bali. A favourable orientation guarantees spectacular sunsets. Combined with other attractions, this phenomenon is always a bestseller. Every day, starting late in the afternoon, crowded tables replace swimmers and surfers. The entire beach is transformed into a big fi sh restaurant for alfresco dining which lures sun-gazers from nearby hotels with a promise of redness at dusk and expensive wine menus. Gazing at the scarlet balloon slowly sinking into the ocean, well fed and content, I realized that I fi gured out why Bali was so enticing and intoxicating. Although the answer to that ques-tion actually escapes me. Bali is just Bali and will remain so for years to come. Does Bali owe its reputation to the fact that it is distant and different? That it is exotic? What does exotic mean, after all? It is merely a state of mindand opportunities compelling us to travel. At the end of the day, what would be exotic for a Balinese person? The Alps, snow or a desert, perhaps?

Dutch launched a wide campaign to modern-ize Bali, aimed at restoring and protecting the island’s original assets. The Dutch replaced the unfavourable public image of themselves with the favourable image of Bali as a living museum that everybody ought to visit. And yet once again, the circle was closed. Nobody knows the exact number of temples on Bali. According to popular wisdom, there are as many as there are people. Temples are much more than places of rite and reverence. They are veritable little radio stations for com-municating with the world of spirits. Belief in spirits is actually the foundation of the religious consciousness of Balinese people, a lot older than Hinduism which arrived from India. The invisible world of Bali is exceptionally rich, inhabited by all sorts, ranging from spirits of ancestors to personifi ed powers of nature. The harmonious balance of relationships in an unpredictable and exciting theatre of hy-ang is more important for the Balinese than the typical transition of the soul prophesized by Veda teachings. The interplay of Hinduism with animism is best refl ected in the act of gift offering. Rice, spices, tobacco, a rupee or two, are placed carefully in a small basket made of dry palm leaves, and the full canang sari with incense sticks is then offered to a deity in a temple, on the street or at the house altar. The organization of one’s living space is also a refl ection of spiritual principles. The concept of habitation in Bali does not know just one object whose roof covers all the rooms. Just like in temples and palaces, the basic struc-ture is a courtyard, surrounded by a wall with an ornately decorated entrance gate. In the courtyard, rooms, a living room, a dining room, a pantry and a kitchen are separated from each other. The importance of a space keeps growing from the outside to the inside, with the most important part of any abode being the central area which features a house altar. The rooms are either pavilions built on wooden columns and covered with thatched roofs or solid rooms, usually bedrooms built with terra-cotta and stone. You will experience the beauty and comfort of living in this kind of dwelling if you choose to stay in one of the home stay households, a favourite and cheaper alterna-tive to accommodation in Bali. The traditional Balinese housing aesthetic has found a special place in modern architecture and design. The recognizable Bali-style is a global brand in the design of space and furniture with an empha-sis on the exotic harmony and aesthetics of tropical materials. Bungalows, houses, villas and hotels compete in recycling the obviously evergreen trend, and many visitors will end up furnishing their houses and apartments with

Duriam

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KuÊa braËnog para Miljenka i Ivane FraniÊ/

Miljenko and Ivana FraniÊ’s house

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Piše/By Irena IriÊ Fotografi je/Photos Cropix

KULTURA ŽIVLJENJA LIFESTYLE ■

Poslovica kako su u postolara najgore cipele, što se tiËe hrvatskih

arhitekata, pokazala se posve netoËnom. Naime, u æelji da vidimo u

kakvim interijerima æive oni koji se po cijele dane bave osmiπljavanjem

domova za druge, posjetili smo stanove i kuÊe πest poznatih domaÊih

arhitekata i saznali kako novac nije uvijek odluËujuÊ za dobro ureenje,

kako je najvaænije za uspjeπan projekt inteligentno promiπljati o prosto-

ru, kako nespojivi materijali i uzorci nekada zaista dobro funkcioniraju

i joπ svaπta drugo. Zavirite s nama u πest genijalnih domova hrvatskih

arhitekata.

The proverb which says that the cobbler’s son has the worst shoes

does not apply to Croatian architects. We wanted to see the resi-

dences of the people whose job is to design other people’s homes,

so we visited six famous Croatian architects’ apartments and houses

and learned that money is not always crucial for good interior design,

that the most important factor in a successful project is the intelligent

consideration of the space, that sometimes seemingly mismatched

materials and patterns work great together, and many other things.

Join us in taking a peek into six amazing homes of Croatian architects.

Moderna vila s fascinantnim pogledom

na braËki kanal

VLASNICI: Miljenko i Ivana FraniÊLOKACIJA: MakarskaARHITEKT: Miljenko FraniÊModerna vila ispod Biokova s nevjerojatnim pogledom. Tako bi se najbolje mogla opisati fascinantna kuÊa na Velikom Brdu u Makar-skoj, u vlasniπtvu arhitekta Miljenka FraniÊa i njegove supruge Ivane FraniÊ MarkoviÊ, koji su sami osmislili cijeli projekt i tako stvorili dom baπ po svojoj mjeri i guπtima.− KuÊa je velika 400 Ëetvornih metara, a podigli smo je u rekordnih pet mjeseci − kaæe simpatiËan par dodajuÊi kako iz stila ureenja nekog stana ili kuÊe lako i brzo moæeπ shvatiti kakvi su ljudi koji tu æive. Tako je i s naπom kuÊom koja svakim svojim centimetrom vriπti naπa imena − smije se Ivana.

PriËa s ovom kuÊom, kaæe, poËela je sasvim sluËajno kada je suprugu Miljenku neki po-znanik 2007. godine rekao da zna za super lokaciju za gradnju kuÊe. Zemljiπte je imalo lokacijsku dozvolu za kuÊu i sagraene te-melje, a Ivana i Miljenko odmah su na njemu mogli zamisliti savrπenu kuÊu za sebe.− Imali smo jasnu viziju onoga πto æelimo u konaËnici postiÊi. Od poËetka smo htjeli sagraditi modernu, minimalistiËku kuÊu, πto smo i uspjeli u vrlo kratkom roku. Vodili smo raËuna o dobroj termoizolaciji, kvalitetnim otvorima (eloksirani izo aluminiji) i toplom podu (tikov parket). Suprug Miljenko oduvijek je bio ljubitelj moderne arhitekture, a zajedno smo preko raznih monografi ja pregledali na stotine kuÊa i divili se nekim jednostavnim i visokofunkcionalnim rjeπenjima, kako kon-strukcija samih objekata, tako i ureenja

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interijera. U Makarskoj do tada i nije bilo baπ nekih oglednih primjera moderne arhitekture, no moram reÊi kako se situacija u posljednje vrijeme mijenja nabolje, a u gradu djeluje više lokalnih arhitekata koji svoju paænju sve viπe usmjeravaju modernom i estetskom obliko-vanju objekata. Zbog naglog razvoja turizma do poËetka rata gradilo se stihijski ili kako se moglo, no u posljednje vrijeme ljudi postaju sve svjesniji vaænosti lijepe arhitekture, πto nas osobno raduje − kaže Ivana, dodajuÊi kako su nakon izgradnje kuÊe susjedi reagirali svakojako. Uglavnom pozitivno, a katkad i s Ëuenjem.− No, zapazili smo da u ljetnim mjesecima brojni turisti Ëesto usporavaju automobile da bi pogledali naπu kuÊu, i to nas uvijek iznova razveseli − kaæe Ivana.KuÊa se prostire na Ëak tri etaæe − podrum-sku, prizemnu i katnu. U podrumu se nalaze teretana, ostava i strojarnica. U prizemlju je garaæa iz koje se moæe doÊi u dnevni boravak, koji se nalazi u prizemnom dijelu i s kuhinjom i blagovaonicom spojen je u jednu prostoriju. Takvo open fl oor rjeπenje, kaæe Ivana, ima viπe prednosti nego mana.

− Komunikacija je izvanredna, djeca su mi stalno na oku, a takav koncept prisiljava nas i na urednost u svakom trenutku, πto je super − objaπnjava Ivana.Na katu kuÊe nalaze se Ëetiri spavaÊe sobe, velika roditeljska s kupaonicom, dvije djeËje sa zajedniËkom kupaonicom i gostinjska soba s kupaonicom i balkonom, koja je stalno u po-gonu. Ma, kod nas je stalno veselo i dinamiËno − kaæe simpatiËna vlasnica dodajuÊi kako je prilikom planiranja organizacije prostora kuÊe suprug osobito vodio raËuna o proæimanju gornje i donje etaæe, ali i o komunikaciji objekta s okolinom. To je bilo odluËujuÊe zbog lokaci-je. Naime, iz kuÊe se pruæa fantastiËan pogled na BraËki kanal, otoke BraË, Hvar, poluotok Peljeπac, pa Ëak i na otok KorËulu.

− Htjeli smo uæivati u tim ljepotama u svim godiπnjim dobima, πto nam je omoguÊilo mno-go otvora na svim proËeljima − otkriva Ivana.©to se tiËe ureenja, to nije iπlo brzo poput gradnje. Ureivali su postupno, polako i promiπljeno. Nije odmah sve bilo tip-top.− Modernu bijelu kuhinju Vaneta Cucine ku-pili smo u splitskoj trgovini Mio-Dino, kauËe smo donijeli iz starog stana, neke antikne naslijeene komade namjeπtaja takoer smo prenijeli i uklopili u moderni interijer. Lokalni stolari LonËar i Mraz izradili su ugradbene ormare, radni stol na galeriji, elemente u boravku, a moj roak i vrsni bravar Zoran MioËeviÊ napravio je sve ograde. Kompletan interijer osmislili smo suprug i ja te ga prila-godili vlastitom ukusu, koji mi opisujemo kao minimalistiËki s domaÊim ugoajem − kaæe Ivana, a na pitanje koja joj je najdraæa prosto-rija, odgovora:− S obzirom na to da je kuÊa povezana u sva-kom svom segmentu, bez obzira na veliËinu, nemam najdraæu prostoriju. Kavu i novine najradije obavljamo za visokim stolom u kuhi-nji, ruËamo uvijek u blagovaonici, u dnevnom boravku Ëitamo, gledamo TV, druæimo se. Djeca bi vjerojatno rekla kako im je najdraæa soba na katu, kojom se koriste kao igraoni-com. Isto tako, galerija je pravi multipraktik, svi se guraju za raËunalo, mnogo se crta i piπe za tim stolom, a pogledi su veliËanstveni iz svih kutaka. Ljeti, pak, uvijek jedemo na terasi − zakljuËuje Ivana.

©armantna drvena klet u Zagorju,

koja se spojila s prirodom

VLASNICI: Andrija i Jasminka RusanLOKACIJA: Gornja PodgoraARHITEKTI: Andrija i Jasminka RusanArhitekt Andrija Rusan jednostavno je zalju-bljen u svoju drvenu kuÊu od 144 Ëetvorna metra u Zagorju, u kojoj provodi svaki slo-bodan trenutak, puni baterije za nove radne izazove i druæi se s obitelji i prijateljima.− Osnovni je koncept kuÊe spoj modernizma i ruralnih vrijednosti. Na prvi pogled kuÊa odaje sliku tradicionalne drvene zagorske kuÊe, a radikalnim otvaranjem prema prirodi i oblikovanjem detalja pokazuje pripadnost suvremenosti − objaπnjava Andrija Rusan koji je ovu kuÊu projektirao zajedno sa suprugom, takoer arhitekticom Jasminkom Rusan.− U ulaznom prostoru nalazi se garderobni ormar i drveno stubište koje vodi u potkrov-lje. Na zapadnoj strani prostor je za dnevni boravak s otvorenom kuhinjom i izlaskom na prostranu terasu. Uz kuhinju je vezan prostor izbe, proπiren i gospodarskim sadræajima. Na istoËnoj strani nalazi se roditeljska spavaonica s radnim kutkom. Uza sobu je smjeπtena i

FraniÊ

FraniÊ

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kupaonica. U potkrovlju, do kojeg se dolazi drvenim stubiπtem, dvije su spavaÊe sobe, jedna djeËja, a druga gostinjska. Uz djeËju spavaÊu sobu nalazi se i prostor dnevnog bo-ravka djece. Taj prostor ima i konzolni balkon koji lebdi iznad πume, iza koje se otvaraju pre-krasni vidici Zagorja. U potkrovlju je smjeπtena joπ jedna kupaonica − nabraja Andrija Rusan i dodaje kako je u eksterijeru najviše hrastove drvene obloge, koja niËim nije tretirana. Drvo, ovisno o izloæenosti atmosferilijama, dobiva sivu patinu. U interijeru, pak, od materijala najviπe prevladava terazzo obloga na podu, pjeskareni betonski stupovi i drvene obloge u svijetlom brezovu furniru.Centralni prostor okupljanja prijatelja i obitelji jest dnevni boravak, koji je velikim staklenim stijenama otvoren na tri strane i maksimal-no uvlaËi prirodu u interijer. Terasa je, pak, produæetak dnevnog boravka − objaπnjava arhitekt Andrija Rusan i napominje kako je terasa omiljeni dio kuÊe. Prostrana je (Ëak 60 Ëetvornih metara) i sastoji se od natkrivenog ganjka na juænoj strani, koji je najugodniji za boravak u hladnijem razdoblju, a za sunËa-nih dana ugodno je na sjeverozapadu na πiroj terasi na kojoj se nalaze roπtilj i stol za blagovanje.©to se tiËe spavaÊih soba, ovdje je namjeπtaj raen po mjeri. Visina leæaja usklaena je s visinom prozorskih otvora.− Kad leæite u krevetu, niπta ne ometa izravnu vizuru na krajolik. Svi ormari u sobama, za-pravo cijeloj kuÊi, naËinjeni su kao ugraeni. SpavaÊe sobe u potkrovlju imaju kose stro-pove, obraene takoer u brezovu furniru, πto pridonosi toplini ugoaja, Podovi su od jednostavnoga hrastova parketa − opisuje arhitekt Andrija Rusan.

Cijeli stan ureen je za samo 25.000 kuna

VLASNICI: Mario i Vanja FurËiÊLOKACIJA: ZagrebPROJEKT: Studio Tim BoljeNovozagrebaËki stan orijentacije istok-sjever u stambenoj zgradi iz 70-ih godina arhi-tekt Mario FurËiÊ naslijedio je od bake. Od postojeÊega prostornog izgleda zadræani su samo stari zidovi, a zaruËnica, kustosica Vanja Æanko i on zatim su ga sami uredili.− Stavili smo nove ploËice u kuhinji, s uzorkom drva, postavljene kao decking. Lamperiju smo postavili u spavaÊoj sobi, do pola visine zida. Obojili smo kompletan stan u bijelo. Niπta nismo zadræali od starog namjeπtaja, postupno smo ga izbacivali kako bismo kupili neπto novo.

Velika je veÊina iz IKEA-e, najviπe nam od-govara njihova slikovita linija Hemnes te linija od punog drva Norden. Kuhinja je iz linije Udden, samostojeÊa kuhinja od inoksa. Od dizajnerskih komada najdraæa nam je podna svjetiljka id Grupe. Zidovi su puni umjetnina naπih prijatelja, kao Oko, Zlatan VehaboviÊ, Stipan TadiÊ, Puma 34, Ines MatijeviÊ... − kažu Mario i Vanja i dodaju kako su za mjesec dana sve isprojektirali, izveli i uselili se, ali stan se ureivao joπ sljedeÊih godinu dana.Najvaænije im je, kaæu, bilo postiÊi ugodan ambijent, pogotovo detaljima i umjetninama. VeÊina stana prekrivena je parketom, a kupa-onica i kuhinja su u ploËicama. Kuhinja nema zidne ploËice nego je obojena perivom bojom. Ostatak zidova obojen je obiËnom bijelom bo-

Interijer πarmantne drvene kleti obitelji Rusan/

The interior of the Rusan family’s charming wooden cellar

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jom. Boravak i kuhinja u punoj πirini prostorije imaju traku prozora − kažu Mario i Vanja, koji su osobito ponosni baπ na kuhinju koja ima retro πtih i sastoji se od niza elementa lijevo i desno. Donji su elementi samostojeÊi, metalni, podsjeÊaju na profesionalne restoranske ku-hinje. Od bake je zadræan hladionik i štednjak. Gornji su elementi od lakiranog medijapana sa slikovitim frontama, a preko puta dvije su crne police s izabranim posuem, ovisno o raspoloæenju.

− Ulazna etaæa sadræava ulazni trijem, prostor 3 u 1 (boravak/kuhinja/blagovaonica) s drve-nom terasom, malu kupaonicu i jednu gostinj-sku sobu. U potkrovlju su radna galerija i dvije spavaÊe sobe s kupaonicom. Kako bi uπtedjeli na prostoru stubište, u podrum se ulazi otkla-panjem poklopca u podu dnevnog boravka, πto se pokazalo izvrsnim. Podrum pod dijelom kuÊe spremiπte je s tehniËkim prostorom − objaπnjava arhitektica Jadranka Polak koja, da mora birati tri rijeËi kojima bi opisala svoju kuÊu, to bi bilo: pogled, dobar miris, jednostavnost.− Najvaænije u ovom projektu bilo nam je postiÊi jednostavnost u volumenu i materijalima. Ma-terijali koji prevladavaju su ariπ od kojega je proËelje, prozori i podovi te aluminij, od kojega je napravljen krov − kaæe arhitektica Jadranka Polak naglaπavajuÊi kako joj je za cijeli projekt trebalo dvije godine.Grijanje je u ovoj kuÊi na elektriËni bojler, kojim se upravlja telefonom, a vlasnica kaæe kako su joπ u potrazi za gusanom peÊi kao dodatkom.Cjelokupni interijer kuÊe osmiπljen je relativno jednostavno, u Ëemu je njegova najveÊa ljepo-ta. U dnevnom je boravku sofa veliËine samo za leæanje, πto je, kaæe, izvrsno, jer cijela se obitelj uvijek skupi i odmara na tom divanu. Blagovaonica je, pak, organizirana tako da za stol stane mnogo ljudi te da se jede ondje gdje se i kuha i boravi.SpavaÊa soba takoer je jednostavno ureena.− Ariπ plus bijelo. Kao noÊni ormariÊi sluæe

Posebnost kuhinje je takoer to πto u njoj nema nijedne ladice jer pribor za jelo Mario i Vanja dræe ondje gdje se suπi nakon pranja. U sklopu dnevnog boravka nalazi se i posebno organiziran radni prostor koji je vlasnicima veoma drag jer sami su ga osmislili do zadnjeg centimetra. Radni stol napravljen je od drvenih greda s ploËom od bijelog iverala. Stolica za radni stol spaπena je iz socijalistiËkog frizer-skog salona i Mario i Vanja tvrde da nema udobnije od nje.Najintimniji dio stana, spavaÊa soba, takoer je priËa za sebe. U njoj vlada pomalo nordijski ugoaj, bijela lamperija podsjeÊa na ladanjsku kuÊu, πto je naglaπeno slikom Ines MatijeviÊ, s duhom jelena. Umjesto ormara stavljeni su kuhinjski elementi, dignuti od poda.

Najljepπa kuÊa Gorskog kotara

VLASNICI: Jadranka i Nikola PolakLOKACIJA. Vrh, Ravna Gora, Gorski kotarPROJEKT: Jadranka PolakVikendica obitelji Polak od 120 Ëetvornih me-tara, s okuÊnicom od 800 Ëetvornih metara, raena je samo s jednim ciljem − da se u njoj svi osjeÊaju opuπteno i sretno. Ta mala, ali jednostavna, ugodna i funkcionalna kuÊica oduπevljava veÊ na prvi pogled jer teπko da itko moæe ostati ravnoduπan na drvenu kuÊicu na rubu πume, u kojoj se s prozora dnevnog bo-ravka niæu planovi brda obraslih πumom i nema ni jednog elementa koji je napravio Ëovjek.

Ugodan i funkcionalan prostor arhitekta Marija i kustosice Vanje/

Architect Mario and curator Vanja’s comfortable and functional living space

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panjevi i koπara za krumpir − kaæe arhitektica Polak dodajuÊi kako je kuÊa postavljena okomito na pad terena, a podrum je uvuËen u odnosu na proËelje. Tako se formira jedna nadstreha kao prostor za pohranu drva za ogrjev. To se u Gorskom kotaru veoma cijeni.

Urbano i mladenaËki, ali s mnogo stila

VLASNICA: Ana BilanLOKACIJA: ZagrebPROJEKT: Ana Bilan− Stan je osmiπljen kao velika prostorija, open space gdje se spajaju radni dio, dnevna soba s kuhinjom i blagovaonicom. Ovaj stan kupila sam u novosagraenoj zgradi u kojoj sam prvi vlasnik. ZateËen je trosobni stan s kupaonicom na sredini prostora. OdluËila sam stan prilagoditi svojim potrebama te sam maknula sve pregradne zidove. U open space smjestila sam kuhinju s blagovaonicom, centralni boravak i radni prostor. Problem u

tom konceptu pojavio se kada sam morala naÊi novu poziciju kupaonice. Jedina alterna-tivna pozicija bila je nasuprot boravku, πto mi funkcionalno i estetski nikako nije odgovaralo. Ideja o skrivenoj kupaonici doπla je spontano i odmah mi se svidjela jer bila je neπto novo i inovativno − kaže arhitektica Ana Bilan, koja svoj dom opisuje kao minimalistiËki, svijetao i energiËan.KonaËni cilj bio mi je osmisliti funkcionalan, jednostavan i prozraËan prostor. U stanu sam iskoristila mnoga pravila japanskog minimaliz-

ma, a nit vodilja bila je bijela kojom sam æeljela stvoriti nenametljivi hladan kostur koji Êe se s godinama puniti πarenilom s pomoÊu sitnih dizajnerskih detalja, uspomenama i knjigama − kaæe Ana. Kako joj je budæet bio limitiran, koristila se jeftinijim materijalom. Gotovo je sav namjeπtaj custom-made, od bijelog iverala, a kuhinja je od bijelog retro materijala ultrapasa.− Bilo mi je vaæno ukomponirati πto viπe hrvatskog dizajna pa je garnitura za sjedenje hrvatski dizajn od ekokoæe, stolice u radnom dijelu jesu 100lica od brenda Lega-Lega.

Vikendica arhitektice Jadranke Polak postavljena okomito na pad terena/

The construction of architect Jadranka Polak’s summer cottage is adapted to the contour of the ground

Polak

Polak

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Ostali komadi su IKEA, a nekoliko dizajner-skih komada dobila sam na dar − objaπnjava arhitektica Ana Bilan, koja je u svom stanu najzadovoljnija kuhinjom jer velika je i u njoj je apsolutno sve πto jedna kuhinja treba imati.− Nedostaje mi joπ drobilica za otpatke, a svia mi se πto nema ni jedne vidljive utiËnice, nego se izvlaËe iz elemenata − kaæe Ana koja maksimalno uæiva u svom stanu, jedino joj, kaæe, nedostaje terasa.Naime, voljela bi sunËane dane provoditi na otvorenome.

Ovo je stan eksperiment

VLASNICI: obitelj JukiÊLOKACIJA: ZagrebARHITEKT: Vedran JukiÊDvoipolsobni novozagrebaËki stan, orijentiran na istok, koji se nalazi u stambenoj zgradi s poËetka 80-ih, slobodno moæemo nazvati arhitektonskom igraonicom.− Stan je fazno adaptiran, a proces adapta-cije joπ traje − kaæe arhitekt Vedran JukiÊ i dodaje kako mu je osnovna æelja bila defi nirati

raznolik stambeni ambijent koji daje trajnu moguÊnost eksperimentiranja bojama, obli-cima i detaljima.− Tijekom izvedbe rabili su se razliËiti jeftini materijali, koji su dobili neuobiËajene uloge. Tako je pod dnevnog dijela obloæen bijelim OSB ploËama, naranËasti buæiri sluæe kao lajsne na spojevima poda i zida, polica za knji-ge dizajnirana je od opeke i kartonskih cijevi.Rasvjeta u dnevnom traktu dizajnirana je s os-novnim elektriËarskim rasvjetnim elementima − kabel, keramiËko grlo, velika æarulja i buæir.U predsoblju se kao sjenilo iskoristio gradiliπni ostatak od velike instalacijske cijevi, a u ku-paonicama je rasvjeta rijeπena u zidu koji ih dijeli (fl uo cijevi duæ cijelog zida pri podu i pri stropu) − objaπnjava arhitekt Vedran JukiÊ.Dnevni boravak u ovom stanu ukljuËuje boravak, blagovaonicu, kuhinju i vrt na loi. Organiziran je kao oblikovno cjeloviti prostor u kojemu prevladava bijela boja, s akcentima naranËaste i crvene. Neizostavni element boravka jest bujno zelenilo u interijeru i vrt s povrÊem u eksterijeru. Kuhinja je, pak, svede-na na ono najvaænije − radnu plohu i vertikalne ploËaste nosaËe, izmeu kojih se ubacuju ra-zliËiti aparati i mobilijar. Na zidu je postavljeno posue za kuhanje. Svaka posuda ima svoje mjesto, a njezin oblik zacrtan je fl omasterom kako bi se lakπe pozicionirala.

A modern villa with a fascinating view of

the BraË Channel

OWNERS: Miljenko and Ivana FraniÊLOCATION: MakarskaARCHITECT: Miljenko FraniÊA modern villa beneath the Biokovo Mountain which boasts an amazing view. This is the best description of the fascinating house on Veliko Brdo in Makarska, owned by the archi-tect Miljenko FraniÊ and his wife, Ivana FraniÊ MarkoviÊ, who designed the entire project themselves, creating a home according to their own needs and taste.− The house covers some 400 square meters and we built it within a record-breaking, fi ve months − says the friendly couple, adding that one can easily and quickly deduce what residents are like by looking at the design of an apartment or a house. This is also true in the case of our home, every inch of which screams our names − Ivana laughs.The story of this house, she says, began by accident in 2007, when an acquaintance men-tioned to her husband, Miljenko, that he knew of a great location to build a house. The land had a location permit for residential buildings and the foundations were already in place, and Ivana and Miljenko immediately pictured the perfect house for themselves.

- We had a clear vision of what we ultimately wanted to achieve. From the very beginning we wanted to build a modern, minimalist house, and we did it in a very short time span. We made sure the house was supplied with good thermal insulation, high-quality apertures (eloxed iso aluminum) and heated fl oors (teak hardwood fl oors). My husband, Miljenko, has always loved modern architecture, and we pe-rused different monographs, viewing hundreds of houses and admiring simple and highly functional solutions, both in terms of construc-tion and interior design. At the time, Makarska lacked representative examples of modern architecture, but I must say that recently this situation has been changing for the better, and there are a number of local architects working in the town whose attention is increasingly

Bilan

Bilan

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focused on the modern and aesthetic design of facilities. Due to the rapid development of tourism prior to the war, construction was random and unplanned, but lately, people are more and more aware of the importance of beautiful architecture, and we are both glad that this is so − says Ivana, adding that after the house was built the neighbours had different reactions. Most of the reactions were positive, but some were also surprising.− We noticed that during the summer months many tourists slow down as they drive by so that they can catch a glimpse of our house, and we are always pleased to see that − says Ivana.The house has three fl oors − the basement, the ground fl oor and the fi rst fl oor. The base-ment houses the fi tness room, pantry and the utility room. On the ground fl oor is a garage

from which you can access the living area, and this merges into a single space with the kitchen and the dining area. This open fl oor solution, as Ivana says, has more advantages than drawbacks.− The communication is extraordinary. I can keep an eye on the children, and this concept also forces us to be tidy at all times, which is great − Ivana explains.The house’s fi rst fl oor has four bedrooms − the parents’ large bedroom with a bathroom, two children’s bedrooms with a shared bathroom, and the guestroom with a bathroom and balco-ny, which is always in use. Our house is always merry and dynamic − says the friendly owner, adding that, when planning the organization of the space, her husband made sure that the upper and the lower fl oors were integrated, and

also that the entire house communicated with the environment. This is crucial because of the location. Namely, the house offers a fantastic view of the BraË Channel, the islands of BraË and Hvar, the peninsula of Peljeπac and even the island of KorËula.- We wanted to enjoy this great beauty dur-ing every season, which allowed us to make numerous windows on all the facades − Ivana reveals.The interior design was, however, not as fast as the construction. They decorated their house gradually, slowly and with deliberation. Not everything was perfect immediately.− We bought the modern white kitchen Veneta Cucine at the Split-based shop Mio-Dino, the couches were brought over from the old apartment, and some of the inherited antique

©to viπe hrvatskog dizajna u stanu arhitektice Ane Bilan/

Architect Ana Bilan’s apartment abounds in Croatian design

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furniture pieces were also transported here and merged with the modern interior. The local carpenters LonËar and Mraz made the built-in closets, the desk in the loft and the living area furniture, while my relative, Zoran MioËeviÊ, an excellent blacksmith, built all the railings. My husband and I communicated about the interior and adapted it to our taste, which we would describe as minimalist with an inviting home atmosphere − says Ivana. We asked her which room is her favourite:− Since all the segments of the house, regard-less of size, are connected, I don’t have a favourite room. We do our coffee-and-paper ritual at the kitchen counter, we always lunch in the dining area, and we read, watch TV and spend family time in the living area. On the

other hand, my children would probably say that their favourite room is the one on the upper fl oor, which they use as a playroom. Also, the loft is indeed multifunctional, everyone uses the computer there, there is a lot of sketching and drawing and writing done at the desk, and the views are magnifi cent from every corner. In the summer we always eat on the terrace − Ivana concludes.

A charming wooden cottage in Zagorje

which merges with nature

OWNERS: Andrija and Jasminka RusanLOCATION: Gornja PodgoraARCHITECTS: Andrija and Jasminka RusanThe architect Andrija Rusan is simply in love with his 144-square-meter wooden house,

where he spends every spare moment he has, recharging his batteries for new challenges at work and socializing with family and friends.− The house’s basic concept is a combination of modernism and rural values. At fi rst glance the house refl ects the image of a traditional Zagorje wooden house, while its radical ori-entation toward nature and the shaping of details show that it belongs to modern times − explains Andrija Rusan, who designed this house together with his wife, Jasminka Rusan, who is also an architect.− The entrance area features a wardrobe and a wooden staircase leading to the garret. On the western side is the living area with an open kitchen and an exit to a spacious terrace. Next to the kitchen is a pantry, which includes com-mercial kitchen equipment. On the eastern side is the parents’ bedroom with a work nook. Next to the bedroom is the bathroom. In the garret, which is accessed by a wooden staircase, are two bedrooms; one for the children and the other for guests. Next to the children’s bedroom is the children’s living area. This area also features a cantilevered balcony fl oating above the forest, beyond which there are beautiful vistas of Zagorje. The garret houses another bathroom − elaborates Andrija Rusan, adding that the exterior is mostly covered with untreated oak panels. The wood gains a grey patina depending on its exposure to environ-mental infl uences. The interior, on the other hand, mostly features terrazzo covering the fl oor, sandblasted concrete pillars and wooden panels made with a light birch wood veneer.The central space is the living area, where fam-ily and friends gather. It has large glass walls which open it to the outside on three sides and draw the nature into the interior as much as possible. The terrace is, on the other hand, an extension of the living area − explains the architect Andrija Rusan, noting that the terrace is the most beloved part of the house due to its size (60 m2) and its roofed balcony on the southern side, which is the most pleasant on cooler days, while during sunny days, there is a broad terrace on the north-west side with a barbecue and dining table.The furniture for the bedrooms was custom-made. The height of the beds is level with the window-sills.− When you lie in bed there is nothing obstruct-ing the direct view of the landscape. All the closets in the rooms − as a matter of fact in the entire house − are built-in. The bedrooms in the garret have slanted ceilings, also covered with a birch wood veneer, which contributes to the warm atmosphere. The fl oors are made of simple oak hardwood − the architect Andrija Rusan describes.

JukiÊ

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The renovation cost of the entire apart-

ment was only 25,000 HRK

OWNERS: Mario and Vanja FurËiÊLOCATION: ZagrebPROJECT BY: Studio Tim BoljeThe architect Mario FurËiÊ inherited an east and north facing apartment in a 1970s, Novi Zagreb residential building from his grand-mother. Of the original design, only the old walls were kept, and he and his fi ancée, the museum curator Vanja Æanko, redecorated it themselves.− We retiled the kitchen with wood-pattern tiles laid as decking. We have wainscoting in the bedroom, up half of the wall. We painted the entire apartment white. We kept none of the old furniture. We discarded it item by item in order to make room for new furniture.Most of the furniture is from IKEA, and we favour their picturesque Hemnes line and the solid wood Norden line. The kitchen is from the Udden line, and it is a free-standing inox kitchen. Among the designer pieces, our favourite is the Grupa fl oor lamp. The walls are full of our friends’ artwork, such as Oko, Zlatan VehaboviÊ, Stipan TadiÊ, Puma 34, Ines MatijeviÊ... − Mario and Vanja tell us, adding that it took them a month to design and install everything and move in, but they spent another year redecorating the place.The most important thing, they say, was to achieve an inviting atmosphere, particularly

with details and artwork. Most of the apart-ment is covered with hardwood fl oors, while the bathroom and the kitchen are tiled. The kitchen does not have wall tiles, but is painted with washable paint. The remaining walls are painted in simple white. The living room and the kitchen have a row of windows covering their full breadth − Mario and Vanja say, espe-cially proud of their metallic kitchen which is reminiscent of professional restaurant kitchens. They kept the grandmother’s refrigerator and cooking stove. The upper cabinets are made of varnished MDF with picturesque front panels, and across from them are two black shelves with a selection of dishes, which are chosen depending on the mood.Another distinct feature of the kitchen is that there are no drawers, since Mario and Vanja keep the silverware in the same rack where it dries after washing. A specially organized work-space is located within the living room, which the owners are particularly fond of since they designed it themselves to the very last inch. The desk is made of wooden planks with a board made of white refi ned chipboard. The chair for the desk was salvaged from a Socialist-era hairdresser’s shop, and Mario and Vanja claim that it is the most comfortable chair ever.The most intimate part of the apartment, the bedroom, has its own story. It has a somewhat Nordic atmosphere, and its white wainscoting is reminiscent of a country house, which is em-

phasized by Ines MatijeviÊ’s painting depicting the spirit of a deer. Kitchen cabinets raised off the fl oor serve as closets.

Gorski Kotar’s most beautiful house

OWNERS: Jadranka and Nikola PolakLOCATION: Vrh, Ravna Gora, Gorski Kotar regionPROJECT BY: Jadranka PolakThe Polak family’s 120-square-meter weekend cottage on a plot of land covering 800 m2 was built with only one purpose in mind − that ev-eryone feels relaxed and happy in it. This small, yet simple, comfortable and functional cottage inspires enthusiasm at the very fi rst glance, as no one can remain indifferent to the wooden cottage at the edge of the forest, with living room windows that offer a view of woody hills, and there is not a single man-made element.− The entrance fl oor contains the front porch, a 3 in 1 area (living area/kitchen/dining area) with a wooden terrace, a small bathroom and a guestroom. The garret houses the work loft and two bedrooms with a bathroom. In order to save on space for the staircase, the basement is accessed by lifting a lid in the living area fl oor, which has proven to be an excellent solution. The basement under part of the house serves as storage with a technical space − explains the architect Jadranka Polak. If she had to describe her house in only three words, they would be: view, heavenly scents, simplicity.

U stanu arhitekta Vedrana JukiÊa materijali su dobili neuobiËajene uloge/

In architect Vedran JukiÊ’s apartment materials have been given unusual roles

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− The most important thing in this project was to achieve simplicity, both in volume and in materials. The prevailing materials are larch-wood, which was used for the façade, windows and fl oors, and aluminium, which was used for the roof, says the architect Jadranka Polak, emphasizing that it took her two years to complete the entire project.The house is heated by an electric water heater which is operated by telephone, and the owner says that they are still searching for a cast-iron stove to supplement it.The entire interior was designed to be relatively simple, which is its greatest beauty. Thus, the living room features a sofa whose size makes it suitable for lounging only, which is, she says, an excellent thing, since the entire family gath-ers here to relax on it. On the other hand, the dining area is organized in such a way that it can seat many people at the table, and thus the dining, cooking and living areas are merged.The bedroom is also simply designed.− Larch-wood plus white. Tree-trunks and a potato basket serve as nightstands − says the architect Polak, adding that the house is laid perpendicular to the slope of the terrain, and the basement is pulled in with respect to the façade. This forms a canopy for storing fuel wood, which is a highly valued thing in Gorski Kotar.

An urban and youthful place, but with lots of style

OWNER: Ana BilanLOCATION: ZagrebPROJECT BY: Ana Bilan− The apartment is designed as a single large room; an open space where the working area and the living room merge with the kitchen and the dining room. I bought this apartment in a new building where I was the fi rst owner. The original apartment had three rooms with a bathroom in the middle. I decided to adapt the place to my needs, and I removed all the dividing walls. I placed the kitchen with the dining area, and the central living and working areas into an open space. This concept became problematic when I needed to fi nd a new position for the bathroom. The only alternative position was across from the living area, which was a bad solution both in terms of functionality and aesthetics. The idea of a hidden bathroom came about spontaneously and I liked it right away, as it was something new and innovative, says the architect Ana Bilan, who describes her home as minimal-ist, full of light and energy.My ultimate goal was to design a functional, simple and translucent space. I used many rules of Japanese mini-malism, and my guiding idea was the colour white, with which I aimed to create an unintrusive and somewhat cold frame, which will, over the years, become infused with colour, as small design details, souvenirs and books are added − says Ana, emphasizing that, since her budget was limited, she used low-cost materials. Almost all the furniture was custom-made from white refi ned chipboard, and the retro material HPL was used for the kitchen.− For me, it was important to incorporate as much Croa-tian design as possible, so the living room furniture is a Croatian design piece made of eco leather, and the chairs in the working area are the brand Lega-Lega’s 100lica.

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Other pieces are by IKEA, and I got several designer pieces as presents − explains the architect Ana Bilan, whose favourite section of the apartment is the kitchen, as it is large and contains absolutely everything that a kitchen should have.v One thing I lack is a food waste disposer, and I like that there are no visible plugs; instead, plugs are pulled out from the kitchen cabinets − says Ana, who enjoys her apartment to the full. The only thing she misses, though, is a terrace.Namely, she would love to spend sunny days out in the open.

This is an experimental apartment

OWNERS: The JukiÊ FamilyLOCATION: ZagrebARCHITECT: Vedran JukiÊThe two-and-a-half-room apartment in Novi Zagreb, facing east, located in an early 1980s residential building, can be named an archi-tect’s playroom.− The apartment was renovated in stages, and the process is ongoing − says the architect Vedran JukiÊ, adding that his main wish was to defi ne a diverse residential space which offers the permanent possibility of experimenting with colours, shapes and details.− During the renovation, different low-cost materials were used, which took on unusual roles. Thus, the living area fl oor was covered in white OSB boards, orange pipes serve as trims where the fl oor and the walls meet, and the bookshelf was fashioned from bricks and cardboard tubes.The lighting in the living area was designed using basic electric lighting elements − cables, ceramic socket, a large light-bulb and plastic pipes.A remnant of a large fi tting pipe salvaged from a construction site was used as a lampshade in the lobby, while the bathrooms are illuminated by fi xtures integrated into the dividing walls (fl uorescent tubes across the wall near the fl oor and the ceiling) − the architect Vedran JukiÊ explains.The living area in this apartment includes the living room, dining room, kitchen and the log-gia garden. It is organized as a space with integrated design, dominated by white, with orange and red accents. The living area’s vital element is the lush green in the interior and the vegetable garden outside. The kitchen is, on the other hand, reduced to the bare essentials − the countertop and vertical carrier boards, which store different kitchen appliances and equipment. Pots and pans are mounted to the wall. Each one has its own place, and its shape is outlined with a marker to make positioning easier.

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Cro A Porter, prvi domaći tjedan mode sa jasno postavljenim

standardima predstavljanja autorske kolekcije domaćih dizajnera

utemeljen je 2003. godine.

Sa dvije sezone godišnje, ujedno je i projekt sa najdužom tradicijom

u Hrvatskoj po navedenim standardima. Uveo je revolucionarne po-

make u produkciji te približio hrvatsku modu svjetskim standardima.

Pored predstavljanja već afirmiranih dizajnera poput Ivane Popović,

I-Gle, Linee Exclusive, Xd Xenie Design, Mak, Matije Vujice lansirao

je i afirmirao imena koja danas tvore domaću modnu scenu poput

Amarie, Boudoir, Ivice Klarića, Borisa Pavlina, Hippy Gardena, Elfsa,

Zigmana, Ivone Martinko, Tihomira Krznarića, Fjabe, Arilea, Ivana

Ledenka, Madame Demode, Marine Design, Dioralop, Tamare Bom-

bardelli i ostalih.

Prepoznat od strane publike, medija, kupaca, posjetitelja, partnera,

sponzora, sudionika i gospodarske scene, Cro A Porter je ostavio

neizbrisiv trag na kulturu i gospodarstvu, medijskom svijetu

Hrvatske, te je pozicionirao Zagreb na modnu kartu regije i Europe.

Iako je u svojoj ideji i po sadržaju modni projekt, Cro A Porter je

postao i daleko više od toga. Promovirajući hrvatski dizajn, kulturu

i poduzetništvo, definirao je hrvatsku društvenu scenu, medijske

standarde te udahnuo Zagrebu dašak svjetske metropole dva puta

godišnje.

Vodeća uloga Cro A Portera, glavnog lansiratelja modnih i produk-

cijskih trendova, rezultirala je popularizacijom domaćeg modnog

dizajna te kreirala i druge projekte koji slijede njegove standarde.

Viktor Drago, utemeljitelj i kreativni vođa projekta, s iskustvom u

produkciji stečenim izvan granica Hrvatske i aktivnim sudjelovan-

jem na modnoj sceni u ulozi kreativnog direktora, stilista, fotogra-

fa te suradnika brojnih medija, aktivno producira Cro A Porter

dajući mu svake sezone novi život, vizualni identitet te artističku i

estetsku vrijednost.

Uz pomoć suradnika, vrhunskih profesionalaca, uvijek svježih

i novih ideja te angažiranje novih imena - mladih entuzijasta

i kreativaca, Cro A Porter je nepresušna tvornica novih ideja i

sadržaja.

U susret novom izdanju najvažnijeg domaćeg modnog projekta

Schwarzkopf Cro A Porter, koji okuplja najeminentniju listu do-

maćih dizajnera u svojim redovima, predstavljamo Vam

SCHWARZKOPF CRO A PORTER DEPARTURE

Posjetitelji naviknuti na jedinstveno modno i produkcijsko uz-

buđenje ni ovoga puta neće ostati uskraćeni za vrhunski doživljaj!

Po prvi puta za potrebe ovog projekta, u suradnji sa domaćom

avio kompanijom CROATIA AIRLINES, oni koji će imati sreće ući će

u prostor do sada nedostupan za javnost.

Avionska pista postat će modna, a avionski hangar lokacija

događanja, za koje će ulaz biti strogo limitiran brojem posjetitelja

i kontroliran kao pri ulasku u carinsku zonu.

Inspirirani putovanjem, letom i brisanjem granica, organizatori

najavljuju možda najsofisticiranije izdanje projekta do sada.

Schwarzkopf Cro A Porter i Croatia Airlines spremni za

Departure

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■ DIZAJN DESIGN

Sestre BroniÊ dizajniraju za velike i male

The BroniÊ sisters make designs for adults and children

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Piše/By Dubravka PrpiÊ Znaor

Uglavnom je rijeË o kolekcionarskim predmetima koji nas podsjeÊaju na svijet odrastanja, nevinosti i vjeËne

igre. Iako takva biÊa jednom nogom æive u djeËjem svijetu, njihov je proces nastajanja itekako zreo, stoga krenimo na Ëudesno pu-tovanje… Meu dizajnericama u ovoj priËi ima i sestara: igrale su se kao male, a to na neki naËin Ëine i danas.

Sestre BroniÊ − kolekcije za male i velike

Blizanke Marijana i Josipa BroniÊ na hrvatskoj su modnoj sceni dugi niz godina poznate i po dizajnu odjeÊe, a lutke su nastale kao dio kolekcije za velike. − Rukopis je prepoznatljiv od samih poËetaka, naπe su lutke sliËno odjevene kao i klijentice − otkrivaju BroniÊke. − Pri radu koristimo se tradicijskim tehnikama poput tkanja, vezenja i pletenja, a jednaku paænju obraÊamo i tekstilu, koji je obvezno od prirodnih vlakana. Ta priËa nastavljena je i u Mouse house projektu, nizu unikatnih kuÊica od recikliranog kartona. Izvezene su uzicama, te nadograene pravim malim namjeπtajem,

Hrvatska dizajnerska scena u posljednjih se nekoliko godina intenzivno

razvila u lutkarskom smjeru − autori ruËno izrauju mala neobiËna

biÊa, spoj izmeu lutkica, Ëarobnjaka, vila i æivotinja, daju im imena,

ekspresije, radnju, smisao i defi niran karakter. Dizajneri su to koji

njeguju ljubav prema ruËnoj izradi i πivanju, recikliranim materijalima

i prirodnom tkanju, a njihovim Êete radom poæeljeti ukrasiti policu,

kamin, krevet ili djeËju sobu. Ili se njima Ëak poigrati!

Over the past several years, the Croatian design scene has moved

quite intensely in the direction of dolls − their designers make unusual

small beings by hand, blending dolls, wizards, fairies and animals,

giving them names, expressions, actions, meaning and distinct

characters. These designers foster love for handicraft and sewing,

recycled and natural materials, making you

want to buy their works to decorate your shelf,

mantelpiece, bed or children’s room.

Or even play with them!

Mouse House projekt Marijane i Josipe BroniÊ/Marijana and Josipa BroniÊ’s project: Mouse HouseAnd

rija

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pa miπevi-lutke imaju svoje stolce, krevete, πtendere, ljestve, ogledala… Dakako, one se kroz svoj prostor kreÊu dobro stilizirane, stoga smo ih odjenule u minijaturne haljine i modne dodatke, koji ponekad tvore specifi Ëan senza-cionalistiËki efekt. Naπa osnovna misao i ideja pri radu ovih lutaka jest ureenje interijera, a one funkcioniraju kao kolekcionarska igraËka za velike i male. Josipa i Marijana BroniÊ dizajnom tekstila bave se od devedesetih, pa su nakon diplome na Tekstilno-tehnoloπkom fakultetu poËele s revija-

ma i izloæbama. Sudjelovale su na dogaanjima u Hrvatskoj, Sloveniji, Austriji, Italiji… Osim toga, bave se i kostimografi jom i produkt dizajnom, te su od samih poËetaka djelovanja dio hrvatske alternativne modne scene.

Little Horse and Baby Beuys

Iza brenda simpatiËnog imena takoer su dvije sestre − Mejra i Maja MujiËiÊ. Dizajnerski duo koji stvara objekte za igru, odijevanje i istraæivanje granica izmeu funkcionalnosti i umjetnosti tvore Mejra, multimedijalna umjetnica koja je

diplomirala na Likovnoj akademiji, i Maja, koja je nakon studija knjiæevnosti svoj rad usmjerila prema dizajnu i modi. − Glavna nam je inspiracija nepredvidljiva i bo-gata djeËja maπta i njihova æelja da prihvate i na-dograde koncept igraËke u svemu πto prime u ruke. Igraju se svime, svaki predmet ima smisao, priËu, posebno mjesto u njihovu maπtovitom i inovativnom æivotu − kažu sestre MujiËiÊ. − Za njih je sve nadogradivo, moæe se kombi-nirati, æivi viπe od jedne sezone i uvijek se moæe nanovo ispriËati, koristiti...

Little Horse and Baby Beuys − zeËevi u zemlji Ëudesa/

rabbits in Wonderland

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Materijali su prirodni, poput pamuka, svile, vune i kaπmira, a naËin izrade tradicional-ni hrvatski, ali i japanski, kojim su sestre oduπevljene. Gumbi koji krase njihove lutke i kreacije od porculana su ili unikatni, antikni. Little horse and baby beuys predmeti bili su dio brojnih izlaganja u Milanu, Parizu, Zagrebu, Dubrovniku, Bruxellesu, Beogradu…

Jasmina KosanoviÊ & Lutke

Modna dizajnerica Jasmina KosanoviÊ svoje je najljepπe trenutke provodila kod bake na selu.− Stalno mi je priËala priËe o vilama, Ëarob-njacima i fantastiËnim biÊima − prisjeÊa se Jasmina − a u to je vrijeme poËela i moja fasciniranost lutkama. PoËela sam raditi lutke od papira, koje sam odijevala, bio je to moj prvi korak tog divnog putovanja u svijet otkrivanja, fantazije i umjetnosti. Tijekom odrastanja, divljenje lutkama nije prestajalo, pa je Jasmina nakon diplome i specijalizacije izrade kostima stala organizirati razne kreativne radionice, koje je osmislila u brojnim umjetniËkim prostorima, a tema je uvijek bila bliska svijetu lutaka: rijeË je bila o radu s djecom na projektima izrade kostima, kostimografi je, umjetniËkih kreacija… − Najviπe volim raditi s djecom i odraslima tako da otkrivaju svoj kreativni unutarnji svijet i potiËu razvijanje maπte. Sve to rezultiralo je time da sam poËela izraivati lutke, prva kreacija bio je drveni aneo. Danas svaka moja lutka ima ime: tu su Rosa, »umpa Lumpasi, Cici Micoji, Kapetan Bijeæo, Gospa od Cukra... Svaka ima karakter, lik, a sve to tumaËim i kroz izraz lica,

ekspresiju, pozu, odjeÊu i modne dodatke. Ne ponavljam ih, svaka je lutka unikat, sve se proizvodi kod mene u atelieru. Sve su to prave umjetniËke kreacije − otkriva Jasmina KosanoviÊ. Inspiraciju pronalazi svuda oko sebe, ne samo u oboæavanju i divljenju prirodi, knjigama, glazbi… nego i strasti prema Ëudesnim biÊima koja æive u priËama, a æivot dobivaju njezinim kreacijama. No, istiËe, niπta od toga ne bi bilo moguÊe bez podrπke njezine obitelji, kojoj je veoma zahvalna što ostvaruje i æivi svoj san.

Extra/Ordinary Design

Projekt vode Julia Cassim, Sanja BencetiÊ i Mirna Reinprecht, a rijeË je o seriji radionica inkluzivnog dizajna.

− Suradnjom πkolovanih dizajnera i osoba s teπkoÊama osmiπljavaju se proizvodi i komu-nikacije, koje omoguÊuju konkurentnost na træiπtu, te procesi proizvodnje prema speci-fi Ënim moguÊnostima − otkriva Sanja BencetiÊ. − Partnerske organizacije URIHO − Zagreb, Udruga za promicanje inkluzije − Podruænica Zagreb, NEOS − Osijek i Zvono − BeliπÊe, upoznale su prednosti ukljuËivanja dizajna u poslovni proces, a izloæbe proizvoda donijele su πiroj zajednici informaciju o inkluzivnom dizajnu, kao i demonstraciju znaËenja dizajna kao alata konkurentnosti. Projekt je prezentiran na nekoliko izloæbi u zemlji i inozemstvu, te je dobitnik dviju nagrada. Temeljni ciljevi i metodologija radionica proi-zlaze iz radionica Design Challenge autorice

Little Horse and Baby Beuys − kad lutke rastu zajedno s djecom/dolls grow together with children

Little Horse and Baby Beuys - lutkice koje postaju ukras za haljinu/little dolls become costume jewellery

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Julije Cassim i All Inclusive Sarajevo autorice Nataπe PerkoviÊ. ZagrebaËka radionica prva je u procesu suradnje s dizajnerima ukljuËila i osobe s intelektualnim teπkoÊama, a osjeËka osobe koje se odvikavaju od ovisnosti − u meunarodnom okruæju, ovakav naËin su-radnje nudi novu opciju odræivosti zaπtiÊenih radionica. Obje radionice pridonijele su razvoju metodologije i meunarodne mreæe suradnje.Osim nekoliko izloæbi u Hrvatskoj, izloæba proizvoda nastalih u sklopu projekta Extra Or-dinary design (Jupi za Upi!, proizvodi URIHO) odræana je u Japanu, u Tokyu i Kyotu u listo-padu i studenom 2011. godine, u organizaciji Inclusive Design Laboratory iz Tokija i Helen Hamlyn Centra. Cjelokupni projekt takoer je predstavljen na izloæbi Shared Innovation u Londonu u sijeËnju 2013. godine. Takvu suradnju priznala je πiroka i struËna javnost. Projekt je nagraen dvjema nagra-dama: nagradom na festivalu Dan D 2011. i nagradom za najbolji rad u kategoriji Koncept na bijenalnoj Izloæbi hrvatskog dizajna 1112 u MUO u rujnu − studenom 2012.

Gloopy

Brand Gloopy serija je raznolikih predmeta iza kojega su SunËana VrtariÊ, lutkarica, i Lara GlaviÊ KonËar, grafi Ëka i produkt dizajnerica. Gloopy pretvara svakodnevne, uobiËaje-ne predmete u zanimljiv i razigran dizajn s osobnoπÊu, rabeÊi raznolike materijale i kon-trastne vizualne elemente. − Gloopy nastoji u svakom predmetu sjediniti viπe funkcija, od korisnih kuÊanskih do zabav-nih za djecu i cijelu obitelj − kaže Lara GlaviÊ KonËar. − Sve je poËelo u proljeÊe 2013., kad je Gloopy startao s prvom idejom, a to je ekoloπki uzgojena lavanda. Kolekcija Wardrobe Creatures prvi je ostvaren Gloopy projekt, Ëiji je cilj bio ormare i garderobe, kao uglavnom

tamne i zaguπljive kutke, razveseliti neobiËnim malim stvorovima koji miriπu na lavandu. S magnetima za lakπe priËvrπÊivanje, likovi Wardrobe Creatures postaju standardni sta-novnici vjeπalica i polica. Svaki lik ima svoje ime i svoju pjesmicu (koje je napisala Katarina –oriÊ, uËiteljica njemaËkog), tako mu dajuÊi osobnost i bliskost ljudima, pogotovo djeci, koja najviπe otkrivaju multifunkcionalnost, pretvarajuÊi ga u bliskog prijatelja, a zbog ugodnoga umirujuÊeg mirisa lavande, dragu igraËku uz koju se lakπe zaspi. Mirisne lutkice pakirane su u praktiËne papirnate vreÊice-kutije s mat plastifi kacijom tako da πto duæe zadræavaju miris. Wardrobe Creatures danas ima tri kolekcije: Original tvore πiπmiπ zvan Schmischmisch, zmija Slinky, miπ Mischo, pauk Spike, æaba

Jasmina KosanoviÊ veliku paænju pridaje detaljima na haljini

Jasmina KosanoviÊ pays a lot of attention to detail on the dress

Jasmina KosanoviÊ − lisice kao najbolje prijateljice/foxes as best friends

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Jasmina KosanoviÊ − Crvenkapica i njezina maca/

Little Red Riding Hood and her kitten Bož

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Tsweta, guπter Sunny i sova Pero − ideja je bila da to budu stvorenja koja nitko ne æeli u svom ormaru. Druga je Morska (koju tvore zvijezda Ante, rak Roko, ribica Luce, hobotnica Kate, morski konjiÊ Toni i srdele Stipe, Mate i Jadranko). TreÊa je BoæiÊna, a tvore je Djedica, Angelina i »udni Boæo, a punjeni su lavandom, klinËiÊima i cimetom, pa mirisom podsjeÊaju na boæiÊne kolaËe. Kreativni tim branda Gloopy daljnjim istraæiva-njima materijala povezuje likove u nove projekte. Tako nastaju lutke za kazaliπte sje-na − Shadow puppets. Uz pomoÊ svjetiljke, djeca i roditelji oæivljavaju sjene likova ulazeÊi u Ëarobni svijet maπte i razvijajuÊi kreativnost kroz igru. Lutke izraene od bukove πperploËe, ostavljene u svojoj prirodnoj formi, omoguÊuju oslikavanja povrπine i tako stvaranje jedinstve-nog karaktera igraËke. Shadow puppets sad imaju dvije kolekcije: Original koju tvore πiπmiπ zvan Schmischmisch, zmija Slinky, miπ Mischo, pauk Spike i æaba Tsweta, i Morsku, koju tvore zvijezda Ante, rak Roko, ribica Luce, hobotnica Kate i morski konjiÊ Toni.

is quite mature. Let us embark on a fascinat-ing journey…Amongst the designers in this story, there are even a couple of sisters who played together as children and continue to play to this very day. The BroniÊ sisters − collections for chil-

dren and grownups

The twin sisters Marijana and Josipa BroniÊ have been on the Croatian fashion scene for a number of years. They are best known for their fashion design and the dolls they make are part of their collections for grownups. − Our signature has been recognisable since day one; the dolls wear the same clothes as our clients, say the BroniÊ sisters.− In our work, we use traditional techniques such as weaving, embroidery and knitting, and we pay just as much attention to textiles made of natural fi bres. The story continues with our Mouse House project, featuring a string of unique houses made of recycled cardboard. They are decorated with string pieces and finished with real miniature furniture so our doll mice have their chairs, beds, fl ower stands, ladders, mirrors… Obvi-ously, they need to move through their space with style, which is why we dress them in

Danas zadnji, ali sigurno ne i posljednji pro-jekt branda Gloopy, jesu Hothothot pot trivet podmetaËi za vruÊe lonce od πperploËe. PriËa je zasnovana na drugaËijem pristupu dizajnu i ruËnoj radinosti (zbog razliËitih profesija koje ju rade), modernim uzorcima, jednostavnim i Ëistim oblicima. Kako je nastalo simpatiËno ime? − Nakon iscrpne brainstorming kave, kada smo smišljale svakakva imena, no nekako niπta nije potpuno odgovaralo, sve nam je bilo glupo. OdluËile smo da se neÊemo viπe muËiti jer nam je rjeπenje bilo pred nosom − glupi, a na engleskome napisali smo po Paklenoj naranËi, jer u Nadsat slengu to znaËi da netko pametan kaæe neπto glupo, i to nam se svidjelo − otkriva Lara GlaviÊ KonËar.

Most are collector’s items which remind us of childhood, innocence and never-ending play. Although

these creatures are deeply immersed in the children’s world, the process of their creation

miniature dresses and use fashion acces-sories which sometimes provoke a specifi c sensationalist effect. Our guiding principle and the idea behind the dolls was initially interior design, while the dolls were meant to function as collectable toys for both children and grownups.Josipa and Marijana BroniÊ have been involved in textile design since the 1990s. They started exhibiting and participating in fashion shows af-ter having graduated from the Faculty of Textile Technology of the University of Zagreb. They

Extra Ordinary Design − Jupi tulipani/Jupi tulips

Gloopy Angeline

Gloopy Djedice − boæiÊna kolekcija

Gloopy Grandpas − Christmas collection

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have partook in events in Croatia, Slovenia, Austria and Italy, and are also active in theatre costume design and product design. Since the very beginning of their careers, they have been part of the Croatian alternative fashion scene. Little Horse and Baby Beuys

The two names behind the brand with the like-able and catchy name are again two sisters: Mejra and Maja MujiËiÊ. The two create clothes and playing objects by exploring the boundaries between functionality and art. Mejra is a multi-media artist who graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts, while Maja studied literature having made design and fashion her occupation once she completed her studies. − We draw inspiration from children’s imagina-tion which is unpredictable and rich, and chil-dren’s desire to accept and build the concept

of toy with everything that comes into their hands. They can and do play with everything; every object has a meaning, a story, a special place in their imaginative and innovative life, say the MujiËiÊ sisters.− For them, everything can be built on, com-bined, everything has a lifespan longer than just a single season and can always be retold and reused… The materials they use are natural, such as cotton, silk, wool and cashmere; the manner of production is traditional Croatian, but also Japanese, with which the sisters are delighted. The buttons decorating both their dolls and porcelain creations are either unique or antique. The Little Horse and Baby Beuys objects have been exhibited in Milan, Paris, Zagreb, Du-brovnik, Brussels and Belgrade.

Jasmina KosanoviÊ & Dolls

Fashion designer Jasmina KosanoviÊ spent the best moments of her childhood in the country with her grandmother. − She kept telling me stories about fairies, wizards and fantastic creatures − remembers Jasmina − and it was then that I became fasci-nated with dolls. I started crafting paper dolls; I dressed them and that was the fi rst step of my fascinating journey into the world of discovery, fantasy and art. As she was growing up, her fascination with dolls never faltered. After graduation and specialisation in costume design, Jasmina started organising, staging and holding different

creative workshops at different locations, the themes of which have always been close to the world of dolls: she has worked with children on costume making projects, costimography and artistic creations. − The way I like to work with both children and adults is to help them discover their creative in-ner world and engage their imagination. To help me with the process, I started making dolls. My fi rst creation was a wooden angel. Today, each of my dolls has a name: Rosa, »umpa Lumpasi, Cici Micoji, Kapetan Bijeæo, Gospa od Cukra... Each has a character, a distinct face, which I interpret through their facial expressions, pos-ture, clothes and accessories. I never repeat any of them; each doll is unique, I make them all in my atelier as veritable artistic creations, says Jasmina KosanoviÊ.She fi nds inspiration in everything around her, not only in her love and admiration of nature, books, music, but also her passion for fairy-tale creatures who live in stories, and become alive in her creations. She points out that none of it would be possible without the support of her family to whom she is extremely grateful for helping her live her dream.

Extra/Ordinary Design

The Extra/Ordinary Design project, headed by Julija Cassim, Sanja BencetiÊ and Mirna Reinprecht, comprises a series of inclusive design workshops. − Collaboration between trained designers and disabled persons results in the design of products and communications facilitating market competitiveness, and the creation of ability-specific production processes, says Sanja BencetiÊ.− The project’s partner organisations URIHO from Zagreb, the Association for Promoting Inclusion from Zagreb, NEOS from Osijek and Zvono from BeliπÊe have recognised the ad-vantages of including design in their production processes, while the staging of design exhibi-tions provides the community with information on inclusive design, as well as a demonstration of the signifi cance of design as a tool of com-petitiveness. The project has been presented at several exhibitions in both Croatia and abroad, and has been awarded twice.

Glooy Boæo dolazi u tri varijante i stiæe u vijeme BoæiÊa

Glooy Boæo comes in three versions around Christmas

Extra Ordinary Design Ijuju lutka

Extra Ordinary Design Ijuju doll

Extra Ordinary Design Jupi Æiraha

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The main objectives and principles of the workshops originate from the Design Chal-lenge workshop by Julija Cassim and All Inclusive Sarajevo by Nataπa PerkoviÊ. The Zagreb workshop is the fi rst such collabora-tion project with designers which has involved persons with mental disabilities, while the Osijek workshop has included recovering addicts − in an international environment, this type of collaboration offers a new prospect for the sustainability of inclusive workshops. Both workshops have contributed to the develop-ment of a methodology and an international collaboration network. In addition to several exhibitions mounted in Croatia, exhibitions of Extra/Ordinary Design products (Jupi za Upi!, URIHO products) have also been held in Tokyo and Kyoto in Japan during October and No-vember 2011 respectively, in the organisation of the Inclusive Design Laboratory from Tokyo and Helen Hamlyn Centre. The entire project was also presented at the Shared Innovation exhibition in London in January 2013.Both the public at large and the profession have recognised this type of collaboration. The project has received two awards − one at the D-Day Festival in 2011 and the other for best work in the Concept Category at the biennial 1112 Croatian Design Exhibition at the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb in November 2012. Gloopy

The Gloopy brand is a series of different objects produced by SunËana VrtariÊ, a doll maker, and Lara GlaviÊ KonËar, a graphic and product designer. Gloopy transforms everyday ordinary objects into interesting and playful design with a personality, using all sorts of materials and contrasting visual elements. Gloopy tries to fuse several functions in every object, ranging from useful household utensils to entertaining objects for children and the whole family, says Lara GlaviÊ KonËar. − Ev-erything started in the spring of 2013 when Gloopy launched its fi rst idea − organically grown lavender. The Wardrobe Creatures collection was the fi rst Gloopy project aimed at bringing joy to wardrobes and cupboards, as well as all other dark and stuffy corners, with quirky little creatures exuding the scent of lavender. Equipped with magnets, Ward-robe Creatures become standard dwellers of hangers and shelves. Each character has a name and a verse (written by Katarina –oriÊ, a German language teacher). By giving them character and personality, we bring them closer to people, particularly children who are best at discovering their multifunctionality,

thus transforming them into close friends. At the same time, the soothing lavender smell makes them lovable toys that help them fall asleep. The scented dolls are packaged in practical paper bags or plasticised boxes to help retain the scent for as long as possible. The Wardrobe Creatures come in three differ-ent collections: the Original collection includes Schmischmisch the bat, Slinky the snake, Mischo the mouse, Spike the spider, Tsweta the frog, Sunny the lizard and Pero the owl. The underlying idea was to put creatures that nobody wants in people’s cupboards. The second is the Sea Collection (comprising Ante the starfi sh, Roko the sea crab, Luce the little fi sh, Kate the octopus, Toni the seahorse and Stipe, Mate and Jadranko the sardines). The third collection is the Christmas collection including the Grandpa, Angelina and »udni Boæo. They are fi lled with lavender, cloves and cinnamon which invoke the smell of Christmas cookies. The creative team of the Gloopy brand contin-ues to research various materials and interlink their characters in new projects. As a result, Shadow Puppets have been created. With the help of a lamp, children and parents give life to the shadows of the characters; they enter the enchanting world of imagination and develop creativity through play. The puppets crafted from beech plywood, left in its natural form, are easily painted over to give each puppet a unique character. The Shadow Puppets now come in two collections: the Original collection includes Schmischmisch the bat, Slinky the snake, Mischo the mouse, Spike the spider and Tsweta the frog, while the Sea collection includes Ante the starfi sh, Roko the crab, Luce the fi sh, Kate the octopus and Toni the seahorse.The latest Gloopy brand project are the Hothothot Pot Trivet hotpot coasters made of plywood. The story is based on a different ap-proach to design and handicraft (owing to the different professions of the people involved in their manufacture), modern patterns and simple and clean forms. And how did they come up with the amusing name?− After a long brainstorming session over cups of coffee, during which all sorts of names were mentioned, but none fi tted the purpose, ev-erything seemed stupid (gloopo). We decided to stop agonising over the name, because the solution was there, right before our noses − glupi (stupid), and so we anglicised the word following the example from Clockwork Orange, because in Nadsat slang this means that somebody smart says something stupid, and we liked that, says Lara GlaviÊ KonËar.

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Otkrijte prednosti turistiËke regije Kvarner, destinacije jedinstvenog spoja primorja,

otoka i gorja.

TuristiËka zajednica Kvarnera radi na pro-micanju proizvoda i novih turistiËkih doæivljaja, odnosno na brendiranju motiva dolaska na Kvarner. Najprije se ocjenjuje po propisanim kriterijima, a zatim se dodjeljuje oznaka kva-litete, standarda i prepoznatljivosti Kvarnera.Kvarner Family − znak je to provjerene turistiËke kvalitete, standarda i prepoznatlji-vosti brendiranih apartmana, kuÊa za odmor, kampova i soba iznajmljivaËa obiteljskog smjeπtaja na KvarneruKvarner Gourmet & Kvarner Food − potraæite oznake kvalitete na proËeljima najboljih restorana i konoba na Kvarneru, koji nude autohtona jela, destinaciji dobre hrane i vina, zdravog æivota i blagotvorne klime Kvarner Health & Wellbeing - brendiranje regije Kvarner kao regije zdravlja s dugom tra-dicijom i promidžba ukupne ponude razliËitih medicinskih ustanovaKvarner Outdoor − oblik aktivnog odmora koji veÊ sada æivi, bilo kao dio sportsko-re-kreacijskih aktivnosti lokalnog stanovniπtva i posjetitelja, ili kao dio organizirane turistiËke ponude. Razni oblici aktivnog odmora orga-niziraju se na razliËite naËine, najviπe preko sportskih klubova odnosno udruga, manjim dijelom preko specijaliziranih turistiËkih agen-cija i specijaliziranih gospodarskih subjekata.

Kvarner Family

Sobe, apartmani, kuÊe za odmor, mali kam-povi i penzioni u domaÊinstvu, u autentiËnom ozraËju æivota malih slikovitih mjesta, gradiÊa i sela Kvarnera − tvore posebnu ponudu poznatu kao obiteljski smjeπtaj. Obiteljski

smjeπtaj Kvarnera moæe se pohvaliti 170 godina dugom tradicijom ugoπÊavanja mani-rom dobrog domaÊina, pa ta vrsta smjeπtaja upravo na podruËju Kvarnera ima i najvjer-nije goste. Danas k istim obiteljima Ëesto dolaze unuci pa i praunuci prvih gostiju. U obiteljskom smjeπtaju Kvarnera sklopljena su brojna dugotrajna prijateljstva, mnogi su gosti prihvatili æivotni stil svojih domaÊina, upoznali prirodne i kulturne vrijednosti, predali se uæitku autohtone gastronomske i enoloπke ponude. Taj je æivotni stil postao glavni motiv dolaska starih gostiju i njihovih prijatelja na Kvarner, k domaÊinu, u istu obitelj, i tako je nastao ovaj jedinstveni pojam turistiËke po-nude pod nazivom Kvarner Family.Obitelj Kvarner Family domaÊinstava iz dana u dan sve viπe raste i prisutna je u svim dijelo-vima naπe regije. Dobro domaÊinstvo Kvarner Family kvalitete razumijeva ugodan smjeπtaj s dodatnim sadræajima koje su poæeljeli sami gosti. Gosti u knjizi dojmova upisuju dojmove i preporuke koje domaÊini ali i buduÊi gosti Ëitaju i prema njima planiraju svoje aktivno-sti. DomaÊini stoje na raspolaganju gostima za sva pitanja, savjete i usluge koje gost na odmoru moæe trebati.Kao πto je Kvarner (Quaternarius) jedinstve-no podruËje koje omoguËuje nevjerojatne doæivljaje, jer to je toËka u kojoj se spajaju sve Ëetiri strane svijeta: planine i mediteranski otoci, istoËna i zapadna civilizacija, s boga-tom i raznolikom ponudom gastronomije, prirodnih i kulturnih atrakcija, s mnoπtvom razliËitih mikrosvijetova u planinskom, pri-morskom i otoËnom, ruralnom i urbanom okruæju; tako i odmor u Kvarner Family smjeπtaju omoguÊuje jedinstveni, pravi doæivljaj izvorne kulture æivljenja domicilnog stanovniπtva.

Kvarner Family - Pet Friendly

Nazivom Pet Friendly, Dog Friendly i oznakama gostoljubivosti za kuÊne ljubimce oznaËeni su pruæatelji usluga koji su specijalizirani za domaÊinstvo ljubimcima i njihovim vlasnicima. To su, u prvome redu, smjeπtaj, i to Kvarner Family kvalitete s dodatnom Pet Friendly ponudom, zatim restorani Kvarner Gourmet i Kvarner Food kvalitete s posebnim mjestom na terasi za vaπeg Ëetveronoænog prijatelja, plaæe na kojima je dopuπteno kupanje psima, trgovine s Ëekaonicama za pse, veterinarske ambulante, hoteli za pse, saloni za uljepπavanje pasa, trgovine za kuÊne ljubimce i sve ostale usluge koje mogu zatrebati vaπem ljubimcu u vrijeme godiπnjeg odmora na Kvarneru.www.kvarnerfamily.hr

Discover the advantages of the Kvarner tourist region, a destination of a unique

coastline-island-mountain blend.

The Kvarner County Tourism Offi ce is currently working on the promotion of products and new tourist experiences in general, and the brand-ing of what motivates tourists to choose Kvar-ner as their destination in particular. Evaluation is fi rst done according to prescribed criteria, after which labels of quality, standards and the recognisability of Kvarner as a destination are awarded:Kvarner Family − a sign of assured tourist quality, standard and the recognisability of branded apartments, holiday homes, camp-sites and rooms rented for family accommoda-tion in Kvarner. Kvarner Gourmet & Kvarner Food − a label of quality at the entrance of the best res-taurants and taverns in Kvarner offering local

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dishes, destinations of fi ne wining and dining, healthy lifestyle and a benefi cial climate.Kvarner Health & Wellbeing − the branding of Kvarner as a region of health with a long-standing tradition and promoting the offer of various medical institutions.Kvarner Outdoor − forms of active vacation already on offer either as part of sports and rec-reational activities by the locals and visitors or as part of organised tourism. Different forms of active vacation are organised in different ways, mostly through sports clubs and associations, and to a lesser extent through specialised travel agencies and specialised businesses.

Kvarner Family

Private accommodation in the form of rooms, apartments, holiday homes, and small privately owned campsites and guesthouses, all located in the surroundings of quaint small towns and villages in the Kvarner region, make up a special part of the local tourism off er. Kvarner family accommodation boasts a tradition of 170 years of hospitality, which is why this type of accommodation has the most loyal guests in Kvarner. Today, some house-holds continue to welcome the grandchildren or even great-grandchildren of the fi rst guests. Private accommodation in Kvarner has given birth to many lasting friendships, and many of

the guests have adopted the lifestyle of their hosts, become acquainted with the natural and cultural treasures of the area, and grown to love the local culinary specialities and wines. Over time, this lifestyle has become the main motivation for regular guests and their friends to visit Kvarner and always stay with the same family. This is how this special segment of the Kvarner tourist offer, known as Kvarner Family, came into being.Every day, Kvarner Family encompasses more and more households from all over the region. A household with the Kvarner Family label complies with high quality standards that include comfortable accommodation and additional services and facilities as required by the guest. In the guestbook, guests write their impressions and recommendations, which are then read not only by their hosts, but also by future guests, who can use this information to plan their activities. Hosts are at the disposal of their guests for any questions, advice and services they might need during their holiday. Kvarner (Quaternarius) is a unique region that offers the opportunity for an amazing experien-ce, as it is the meeting point of the four cardinal points, the mountains and Mediterranean islands, and Eastern and Western civilisation. Moreover, it is a region with a rich and varied culinary tradition, a wide range of natural and

cultural attractions, and a variety of different areas with mountainous, littoral, island, rural and urban surroundings. In the same way, a holiday in Kvarner Family accommodation provides a unique and authentic experience of the way of life of the local people.

Kvarner Family - Pet Friendly

The labels Pet Friendly, Dog Friendly and Pets Welcome indicate services and service providers that meet the needs of pets and their owners. First of all, this refers to accommoda-tion, which in addition to the Kvarner Family quality label now also includes the Pet Friendly section. Apart from accommodation, this ini-tiative also includes restaurants marked with Kvarner Gourmet and Kvarner Food quality labels that have a special place on their terra-ces for your four-legged friend, dog beaches, shops with waiting rooms for dogs, veterinary clinics, dog hotels, beauty salons for dogs, pet shops and any other services that your pet might need during your stay in Kvarner.www.kvarnerfamily.hr

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www.dalmatia.hr

info@dalmatia.hr

Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, 21000 Split, Croatiatel/fax: +385 (0)21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

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www.v is i tsp l i t .com

C r o a t i a n N a t i o n a l To u r i s t B o a r d

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NatjeËaj Balon Stellar Stratosfera poËeo je u studenom 2013., a pobjednici su

proglaπeni 2. srpnja ove godine. Neprofi tna udruga Tim Stellar osmislila je i provela na-tjeËaj za srednjoπkolce, koji su podræali mnogi sponzori, pa tako i Croatia Airlines − dva je tima, sudionika natjeËaja, nagradio opserva-cijskim letovima na svojim domaÊim linijama.Ideja o natjeËaju rodila se u Londonu, gdje su se sastali najvaæniji Ëlanovi Google Lunar XPRIZE tima Stellar. Team Stellar jedan je od 18 meunarodnih timova koji se natjeËu za 30,000.000 dolara vrijedne nagrade, a okuplja struËnjake s Ëetiri kontinenta, koji surauju kako bi ostvarili cilj natjecanja: po-slati robotsko vozilo na Mjesec. To robotsko vozilo treba na Mjesecu prijeÊi udaljenost od najmanje 500 metara i poslati video HD kvalitete natrag na Zemlju.PoËetna zamisao bila je napraviti jednostavan natjeËaj za srednjoπkolce u Hrvatskoj, no kako se sve viπe ljudi ukljuËivalo u projekt, natjeËaj je poprimao sve ozbiljnije obrise. Dobivena je potpora Ministarstva znanosti, obrazovanja i sporta, pridruæili su se i prvi sponzori, te je odluËeno da se visoke novËa-ne nagrade dodijele izravno uËenicima, jer æelja je bila pokazati im da se znanje i rad isplate.Odaziv srednjoπkolaca nadmaπio je i najop-timistiËnija predvianja organizatora, udruge Tim Stellar. Na natjeËaj se prijavio Ëak 21 tim s gotovo 130 Ëlanova iz cijele Hrvatske. Zaπto je odaziv bio tako velik objaπnjava jedan od

Piše/By Marin TomiËiÊ

Fotografi je/Photos Tomislav MuiÊ

su njihovi eksperimenti prikupili u stratosferi. Timovi su tada na temelju hipoteze koju su prije postavili i podataka koje su njihovi eksperi-menti prikupili tijekom leta u stratosferi, napisali zavrπne radove. StruËna komisija pregledala je zavrπne radove i proglasila najbolje timove. Najbolja tri tima nagraena su visokim novËa-nim nagradama. Prvoplasirani tim Gravity iz Kutine nagraen je s 30.000 kuna i prijeno-snim raËunalima, drugoplasirani tim nagraen je s 20.000 kuna, a treÊe mjesto nosilo je nagradu u iznosu od 10.000 kuna. Nisu samo najbolja tri tima nagraena, svaki tim koji je sudjelovao dobio je neku nagradu od sponzora natjeËaja. Vrijednim je nagradama udruga Tim Stellar nastojala obuhvatiti πto veÊi broj timova i natjecatelja ovog natjeËaja koji se odvio prvi put. U tome se uspjelo, uz veliku pomoÊ i razumijevanje sponzora koji su, poput samih natjecatelja, prepoznali vrijednost ovog projekta.Kreativnost koju su pokazali timovi pri izradi eksperimenata iznenadila je mnoge struËnjake. S obzirom na to da su fi nancijska sredstva za izradu eksperimenta morali pronaÊi sami, timovi su, uglavnom uz male proraËune, osmislili zanimljiva i inovativna rjeπenja koja su zahtijevala mnogo promiπljanja i improvizacije.Kakve su sve teπkoÊe timovi morali prevladati da bi njihov projekt bio uspjeπan? Jedno od najvaænijih pravila natjeËaja bilo je da ukupna teæina eksperimenta ne smije prelaziti 150 grama, eksperimenti su morali izdræati velike

natjecatelja, voditelj tima Prism Spectrum iz MetkoviÊa, Josip ToπiÊ:− Rijetko u svojem okruæju imamo priliku poka-zati svoje kreativne sposobnosti na naËin koji nam pruæa Tim Stellar. ©to se tiËe oËekivanja, sigurni smo u to da Êemo se zabaviti tijekom rada na projektu te da Êe nam udruga biti na usluzi cijelo vrijeme, πto je vrlo velika stvar s obzirom na to da nam sigurno lansiranje i pronalazak malo tko moæe obeÊati. Mislimo da veÊ i ideja ispitivanja akustike u viπim slo-jevima atmosfere ima potencijala − originalna je, zanimljiva i izvediva, πto je za projekt vrlo bitno. Naime svjesni smo da Êemo se morati suoËiti s velikom konkurencijom radova iz cijele dræave.InaËe, tim Prism Spectrum iz MetkoviÊa zauzeo je 5. mjesto u konaËnom poretku, te je jedan od timova što ga je nagradio Croatia Airlines, op-servacijskim letovima koji ukljuËuju i kratki po-sjet pilotskoj kabini. Uzbudljiv let i jedno neza-boravno iskustvo bili su pred srednjoπkolcima s juga Hrvatske, kao zasluæena nagrada za njihov rad i znanje.Balon Stellar Stratosfera natjeËaj je kojemu je cilj bio da srednjoπkolci oforme timove do πest Ëlanova, od kojih dva Ëlana ne moraju biti srednjoπkolci, te osmisle i izrade eksperimente koje je Tim Stellar posebnim balonima poslao u stratosferu, na viπe od 30 kilometara visine. Kada su baloni, odnosno njihov teret, pali na zemlju, Tim Stellar pronaπao ih je i vratio timovima, kako bi mogli analizirati podatke koje

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razlike u temperaturi, tlaku i sve druge izazo-ve koje pruæa okruæje na rubu svemira. Osim toga, kuÊiπte eksperimenta moralo je izdræati pad iz stratosfere brzinom do 10 m/s i zaπtititi osjetljive ureaje u sebi.Izazovi su bili veliki, ali æelja timova da ih prevladaju i pobijede u ovom natjeËaju bila je joπ i veÊa.Potkraj travnja eksperimenti su lansirani u stratosferu, a operaciju lansiranja i potrage za balonima vodio je Australac Robert Brand, veteran svemirskih misija Apollo, koji sa svo-jim dvanaestogodiπnjim sinom Jasonom dræi rekord u broju uspjeπno lansiranih i pronaenih stratosferskih balona. Robert Brand bio je struËnjak za komunikacije, koji je pomogao da do Zemlje dou prve rijeËi izgovorene na Mjesecu, a sada sudjeluje u novom pohodu na Mjesec kao Ëlan Google Lunar XPRIZE Teama Stellar.©to su u stratosferi istraæivali sudionici na-tjeËaja Balon Stellar Stratosfera i kakva je bila raznolikost eksperimenata, najbolje pokazuju primjeri pobjedniËkih timova. Tim Gravity iz TehniËke πkole Kutina, u kojemu su profesor Marko Marinπek te dvojica uËenika, Josip IviËek i Kristijan Veina, mjerio je utjecaj tlaka na vreliπte vode. Taj eksperiment donio im je pobjedu u natjeËaju, visoku novËanu nagradu i prijenosna raËunala.Drugoplasirani tim Space Jet, iz iste πkole kao i pobjedniËki tim, mjerio je viskoznost aviokero-zina JET A-1 na ekstremnim visinama, a tim iz Gimnazije Bjelovar, Bjelovar Stellar Laboratory, zanimalo je kakav je utjecaj kozmiËkog zraËe-nja na tvari i ureaje.Osim πto su morali osmisliti i izraditi eksperi-mente, timovi su odræavali svoje stranice na druπtvenoj mreæi Google+, te su morali snimiti videouradak u trajanju od 3 do 5 minuta. Na

svojim stranicama i u zavrπnom videu opisivali su tijek rada na projektu, svoje uspjehe i neu-spjehe i tako uËili kako komunicirati svoj projekt u javnost. Komunikacija s javnoπÊu preko novih medija bio je jedan od elemenata koji je ulazio u ukupnu ocjenu projekata.StruËna komisija koja je ocijenila zavrπne rado-ve timova radila je na aplikaciji razvijenoj upravo za tu prigodu. »lanovi komisije mogli su vidjeti radove svih timova, ali nisu mogli vidjeti ocjene drugih sudaca, πto je pridonijelo neovisnom ocjenjivanju svakoga pojedinog Ëlana komisije. SveËana dodjela nagrada najboljim timovima ovogodiπnjeg natjeËaja Balon Stellar Stratos-fera organizirana je u velikoj auli Nacionalne i sveuËiliπne knjiænice u Zagrebu, te je prvi natjeËaj tako zavrπen. S obzirom na veliko zanimanje uËenika i potre-bu za izvaninstitucionalnim oblicima edukacije, veÊ ove jeseni bit Êe pokrenut novi natjeËaj Balon Stellar Stratosfera, a zbog zanimanja iskazanoga iz drugih zemalja, mogao bi se natjeËaj internacionalizirati veÊ tijekom 2015. godine.

The competition Balon Stellar Stratosfera (Balloon Stellar Stratosphere) started in

November 2013, and the winners were an-nounced on 2 July this year. The Tim Stellar (Team Stellar) non-profi t association conceived and carried out the secondary school students competition, that was supported by numer-ous sponsors, among which Croatia Airlines, which awarded two teams, participants in the competition, with observation fl ights on its domestic routes.The idea about the competition arose in London, where the most signifi cant Google Lunar XPRIZE Stellar team members met.

Team Stellar is one of 18 international teams that compete for 30 million dollar worth prizes. Team Stellar gathers experts from four conti-nents, which cooperate on realizing the goal of the competition: sending a robot vehicle to the Moon. That robot vehicle should travel the dis-tance of at least 500 meters on the Moon and send an HD quality video back to the Earth.The initial idea was to make a simple competi-tion for secondary school students in Croatia, but, as more and more people were joining the project, the competition took more seri-ous shape. The support from the Ministry of Science, Education and Sport was received, the fi rst sponsors joined in too, and it was de-cided to award big monetary awards directly to students, because the wish was to show that knowledge and work pay off.The response of the secondary school students exceeded the most optimistic an-ticipations of the organizers, the Tim Stellar association. As many as 21 teams applied for the competition, with almost 130 members from all over Croatia. Why the response was so big is explained by one of the competitors, the leader of the Prism Spectrum team from MetkoviÊ, Josip ToπiÊ:− We rarely have an opportunity to show our creative abilities in our surroundings in the way that is given to us by Tim Stellar. As for the expectations, we are sure that we will have fun while working on the project, and that the association will be at our service all the time, which is a very big deal since hardly anyone can promise us safe launching and fi nding (of the experiment). We believe that the very idea of testing the acoustics in higher strata of the atmosphere has a potential because it is original, interesting and feasible, which is very important for the project because we are

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aware that we have to face great competition of works from the whole state.Otherwise, the Prism Spectrum team from MetkoviÊ took the 5th place in the fi nal order, and is one of the teams awarded exactly by Croatia Airlines, by observation fl ights that include a short visit to the cockpit. An exciting fl ight and unforgettable experience lies before the secondary school students from the south of Croatia, as a deserved reward for their work and knowledge.Balon Stellar Stratosfera is a competition the goal of which was for secondary school students to form teams of six members, two of which did not have to be secondary school students, and to devise and prepare the ex-periments which Tim Stellar sent by balloons to the stratosphere, to the altitude of over 30 kilometers. When the balloons, i.e. their load, fell to the ground, Tim Stellar found them and returned them to teams, so that they could analyze the data gathered by their experiments in the stratosphere. Then the teams prepared the fi nal papers based on the hypothesis the had set earlier, and the data collected by their experiments during the fl ight in the strato-sphere. The fi nal papers were checked and the best teams were announced by a professional commission.Three best teams were awarded big monetary awards. The fi rst-placed team, Gravity from

of Apollo space missions, which, together with his twelve-year son Jason, holds the record in the number of successfully launched and found stratospheric balloons. Robert Brand was a communication expert which helped the fi rst words spoken on the Moon to reach the Earth, and now he participates in the new journey to the Moon as a member of the Google Lunar XPRIZE Team Stellar.What did the Balon Stellar Stratosfera partici-pants research in the stratosphere, and how diverse the experiments were, is best shown by the examples of the winning teams. Tim Gravity from the Technical School in Kutina, consisting of a teacher, Marko Marinπek, and two students, Josip IviËek and Kristijan Vein, was measuring the effect of pressure on the boiling point of water. That experiment brought them the victory in the competition, a big mon-etary award and laptops.The second-placed Space Jet team, from the same school as the winning team, was measuring the viscosity of avio-kerosene JET A-1 at extreme altitudes, while the team from the Bjelovar Grammar School, Bjelovar Stellar Laboratory, wanted to know what is the effect of cosmic radiation on substances and devices.Apart from having to devise and prepare the experiments, the teams were maintaining their websites at the Google+ social network, and they had to record a video with the duration from 3 to 5 minutes. At their websites and in the fi nal video, they described the course of their work on the project, their successes and failures, whereby they learned how to commu-nicate their project to the public. Communica-tion with the public by means of new media was one of the elements that was included in the overall appraisal of the projects.The professional commission which appraised the fi nal papers of teams operated in the ap-plication developed exactly for that purpose. Commission members could see the papers of all the teams, but they could not see the appraisals of other judges, which resulted in independent judging on part of each particular commission member.The ceremony of awarding the best teams of this year’s Balon Stellar Stratosfera competition was organized in the Great Hall of the National and University Library in Zagreb, which con-cluded the fi rst competition.With respect to big interest of students and the need for extra-institutional forms of education, a new Balon Stellar Stratosfera competition will be initiated already this autumn, and exhibited interest from other countries could make the competition international already during 2015.

Kutina, was awarded 30,000 kuna and lap-tops, the second-placed team was awarded 20,000 kuna, while the third place received the award amounting to 10,000 kuna. There were not only three teams rewarded, every team that participated won some award from the competition sponsors. The Tim Stellar association endeavoured to cover by valuable awards the greatest possible number of teams and participants in this competition, that was held for the fi rst time. They succeeded in that, with great assistance and understanding of sponsors which, like the competitors them-selves. recognized the value of this project.Creativity manifested by the teams in prepa-ration of the experiments surprised many experts. Since they had to fi nd the fi nancial funds for preparing the experiments them-selves, teams have devised interesting and innovative solutions, which demanded a lot of consideration and improvisation, mostly with small budgets.What diffi culties did the teams have to over-come for their projects to be successful? One of the most important rules of the competition was that the total weight of the experiment must not exceed 150 grams, the experiments had to withstand big variations in tempera-ture, pressure, and all the other challenges brought by the environment at the very edge of the universe. Besides, the casing of the experiment had to withstand the drop from the stratosphere at the speed of up to 10m/s and protect the sensitive devices inside it.Challenges were big, but the desire of the teams to overcome them and win in this com-petition was even bigger.By the end of April, the experiments were launched into the stratosphere, with the opera-tion of launching and searching for the balloons led by the Australian Robert Brand, a veteran

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www.panorama-zagreb.comwww.hupzagreb.com

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154 CROATIA AIRLINES

SERVICES AT VIENNA AIRPORTFUN FOR KIDS AT VIENNA AIRPORTAirline travel can be even more convenient and comfortab-le thanks to useful services of-fered at the airport. Vienna Airport offers new service op-tions, especially for children and families. The airport provides separate family security lanes and a children’s adventure area at Terminal 3. At the Family Fun Gate, children can enjoy a fun-ny world of experience with sli-des, a climbing frame, labyrinth and much more. They can en-tertain themselves in this spe-cially designated area with toys and colorful leather cubes they can stack up. A diaper changing station has been set up for the youngest children and a seating area is available for parents. The fun area for kids is open around the clock, and can be used free of charge. The Family Fun Gate is located near the F Gates at Ter-minal 3.

FREE WLAN

Many other airport services en-sure pleasant travel comfort. For example, Vienna Airport offers free WLAN in all terminal areas without any time limitation and easy to access with no need to register. Travelers can conveni-ently surf in the Internet with their smart phones or laptops.

The Vienna Airport app ensures that you have the latest informa-tion on your personal fl ight iti-nerary, provides you with latest shopping offers and other rele-vant airport information. Vienna Airport has also installed more than 20 new information moni-tors so that fl ight information is highly visible for all passen-gers at the airport. The informa-tion displays are easy to identify thanks to a new arrangement of the screens. The latest informa-tion is also available at the bag-gage claim areas. For all fl ights handled by Vienna Airport, pas-

sengers can see on the monitors how fast their suitcases appear at the carousels. More informati-on for this services please fi nd at www.viennaairport.com.

NEW CULINARY OFFERINGVienna Airport is offering trave-lers a wide range of culinary op-tions. Recently the restaurants Zugvogel at the Plaza area in Ter-minal 2 and Rustichelli Mangio-ne at the D Gates opened. They offer light meals and snacks be-sides many other culinary spe-cialties. The offering ranges from breakfast variations to a great variety of snacks and sandwi-ches with salmon, mozzarella, Milan salami, prosciutto, rocket salad or turkey ham. Of course you can enjoy the classic Aust-rian and international cuisine such as Wiener Schnitzel, fried chicken, Sacher sausages or gou-lash soup at the Zugvogel at the Plaza in Terminal 2.

THE BEST FROM AUSTRIA AND THE WHOLE WORLDThe modernization of the termi-nal area Pier West will be opened by the end of this year. In the fu-ture, passengers can enjoy an extensive gastronomical experi-ence in a brand new Food & Be-verage area. Do & Co will be the operator of this Food Court lo-cated at the C Gates area of Pier West. On a fl oor space of about 800 m² and in typical DO & CO quality, Demel offers traditio-nal Vienna coffee house culture of the highest quality. At Henry guests at Vienna Airport can en-joy freshly squeezed juices, ta-pas and antipasti, cold and warm dishes from all over the world and many homemade desserts. Check out the American Diner with a broad range of breakfast dishes, freshly made salads, Ame-rican sandwiches and burgers. Another highlight is a “Children’s Restaurant” boasting a culinary offering tailored to the wishes of the airport’s young guests.

VIENNA AIRPORT

WWW.VIENNAAIRPORT.COM

2013: Luftaufnahme

www.viennaairport.com

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NEW SHOPS AT VIENNA AIRPORTThe Hamburg-based company Gebrueder Heinemann recently opened the largest duty free shop in Austria at the Shopping Plaza of Vienna Airport. On an area of about 1,200 m², travelers will find a huge range of interna-tional brand-name products at low prices, Austrian specialties and delicacies and surprising ser-vice innovations.

NEW: VICTORIA’S SECRET AT THE AIRPORTVictoria’s Secret, the leading lingerie and beauty brand, just opened its first beauty and ac-cessories store at Check-in 2 in the Shopping Plaza. Effective immediately, passengers can find fragrances, cosmetics in practical travel sizes, signature lip glosses, branded beauty ca-ses and many stylish accessories of the brand Victoria‘s Secret. A

shop from Picard and the pop-up store of the Austrian glasses brand Silhouette are also new at the airport. The Internatio-nal Bookstore near Check-in 3 at the G Gates recently launched a new shop concept for travelers. Travelers will find more than 100 shops and restaurants at Vienna Airport.

STAR ALLIANCE TERMINAL 3Almost all Star Alliance flights depart from Terminal 3, which offers passengers short distan-ces. Passengers do not have to change terminals when transfer-ring to connecting flights depar-ting from Vienna.

After the central security check-point, travelers will find 43 Shops, Duty Free Shops and Re-staurants in Terminal 3 as well as lounges of Austrian Airlines and Vienna Airport.

TRANSPORTATION TO VIENNA’S CITY CENTREThe City Airport Train (CAT) car-ries passengers on the fastest way nonstop to “Wien Mitte” station that is located in the city center of Vienna. The dri-ving time is just 16 minutes and the train leaves every 30 minu-tes. Vienna Airport Lines opera-tes scheduled bus connections between the airport and the city center (Morzinplatz/Schweden-platz), the Western Railway Sta-tion (Westbahnof), Meidling and

the Vienna International Center (UNO City). The suburban train (S-Bahn) leaves every thirty mi-nutes and also takes travelers to Wien Mitte, stopping at several regional stations along the way. Travel time is about 35 minutes. Taxis, rental cars and limousine services are available in front of the arrival hall. Anyone travelling to the airport by car can select among several multi-storey car parks and parking lots. The least expensive parking rates can be determined in advance using the interactive parking fee calculator at www.viennaairport.com.

Entg

eltl

iche

Anz

eige

Ankunftarrival

Abflug /

departure /

Ankunft /arrival /

Terminal 1

Terminal 2

Terminal 3

Terminal 1A

FamilyFun Gate

VIENNA AIRPORT-APPThe Vienna Airport app is available at the App Store or at the Play Store as download!

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156 CROATIA AIRLINES

Letom Croatia Airlinesa stigla je u Hrvatsku mlada njemaËka ko-

loraturna sopranistica Frauke Aulbert, poznata kao Hamburπka

kraljica avangarde. Razlog njezina posjeta Hrvatskoj novi je festival

za suvremenu glazbu i umjetnost Novalis music+art festival, koji se

održao na glavnome novaljskom trgu u organizaciji grupe hrvatskih

muziËara mlae generacije.

Young German coloratura soprano Frauke Aulbert, dubbed Ham-

burg’s queen of avant-garde, arrived in Croatia by a Croatia Airlines

fl ight. The reason for her visit to Croatia was a new festival of con-

temporary music and art titled, Novalis music+art festival, which

took place in the main square in Novalja, on the island of Pag, in

the organization of a group of young Croatian musicians.

Piše/By Davor DragojloviÊ

Fotografi je/Photos Tomislav VeiÊ

Frauke Aulbert, hamburπka kraljica avan-garde, tu titulu nosi na temelju iznimnog

raspona glasa od Ëetiri oktave i velike virtuo-znosti koja, uza standardne klasiËne tehnike, obuhvaÊa i brojne posebne pjevaÊe tehnike kao alikvotno pjevanje, izvoenje multifonika i drugo.U toku svog obrazovanja izuËavala je razliËi-te muziËke æanrove, od gamelana, jazza, πansone, beatboxsa, te svih ostalih suvre-menih izriËaja pjevanja. Nakon studija na vrhunskim πkolama u Kiehlu, Hamburgu i na Tenerifeu, u sklopu kojih je napisala dizertaciju o alikvotnom pjevanju, Frauke Aulbert nastupa po cijeloj Europi, ali i svjetskim pozornicama u SAD-u, Tunisu, Gruziji i Brazilu. Samo u posljednjoj godini, Frauke Aulbert nastupila je na Radio France, ZKM u Karlsruheu, Gri-meborn Festivalu u Londonu i na najpozna-tijemu meunarodnom ljetnom seminaru za suvremenu glazbu u Darmstadtu. Od brojnih nagrada najznaËajnije je prvo mjesto koje joj je 2009. dodijelila Fondacija Stockhausen za izvrsnu interpretaciju Stockhausenovih djela, kao i meunarodna nagrada Music theatre NOW, koju je osvojila 2012. godine.Razlog njezina posjeta Hrvatskoj novi je festi-val za suvremenu glazbu i umjetnost Novalis music+art festival, koji se održao 28. kolovoza na glavnome novaljskom trgu u organizaciji grupe hrvatskih muziËara mlae generacije. Za organizaciju festivala Novalis zaslužni su mladi glazbenici Davor Branimir Vincze, Sanja LasiÊ i Ivana Biliπko. − Taj festival predstavlja novi pristup sluπanju ozbiljne glazbe razbijajuÊi stigmu klasiËnog odnosa izvoaËa i publike − istiËe B. Vincze, dodajuÊi: − Obrazovanjem u inozemstvu, shvatili smo da vani postoji trend pribliæavanja suvremene glazbe umjetnosti kroz drugaËiji koncept koji uklanja barijeru izmeu sluπatelja i glazbenika pruæajuÊi im novi doæivljaj suvremene glazbe.Drugim rijeËima, ovaj festival odvija se pod glavnom premisom 3I - Inovacija, Interdisci-plinarnosti i Interakcija.Inovativnost se odnosi u prvom redu na nove medije, ali i na ukupni naËin nekoncertnog naËina predstavljanja glazbe, koji ukljuËuje neobiËne lokacije na otvorenom, kretanje izvoaËa, samostalno odluËivanje publike o naËinu sluπanja glazbe kao i izvoenje samo æivuÊih autora.

■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT

FRAUKE AULBERT

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CROATIA AIRLINES 157

Natasha López, Alessia Park, Marija Skender, Frauke Aulbert,

Davor B. Vincze, Jagoda Szmytka, Sanja LasiÊ

Interdisciplinarnost se odnosi na to što Êe veÊina izvoenih glazbenih komada spajati suvremenu glazbu sa srodnim umjetniËkim pravcima poput videoinstalacija, suvreme-nog plesa, teatra i ostalih umjetniËkih formi.Kako je danas teπko privuÊi pozornost sluπatelja, kljuËna je Interakcija izmeu publike i izvoaËa, kako bi se gledatelje uspjeπno uvuklo u samu izvedbu. Zbog istog razloga, u sklopu programa, iduÊih godina bit Êe odræane razne radionice, intervjui s umjetnicima te okrugli stolovi, ali i otvorene probe, kako bi se posjetitelji festivala osjeÊali neposredno upleteni u proces stvaranja.Stoga Novalis predstavlja mjesto susreta profesionalaca s razliËitih podruËja umjet-nosti i publike, koja ima priliku svjedoËiti novonastalim idejama koje Êe se raati iz njihove umjetniËke suradnje.Ove godine Novalis je pilot koncertom pred-stavio Ëetiri solistice vokalnog ansambla Forum Neue Vokalmusik, Frauke Aulbert, Na-tashu López, Alessiju Park i Mariju Skender, a voditeljica je i osnivaËica Frauke Aulbert. Na koncertu u Novalji 28. kolovoza izvele su skladbe poznatih æivuÊih autora kao πto su Aperghis, Saariaho, Szmytka, ali i djelo hrvatske skladateljice Sanje LasiÊ. PjevajuÊi, skaËuÊi, lupajuÊi, vriπteÊi i dozivajuÊi se preko megafona, djevojke su na svojstven naËin na glavnom novaljskom trgu ugodno iznenadile i zabavile znatiæeljnu publiku uza svjetlost svijeÊa u suton. Neprestano mijenjajuÊi poziciju na atraktivnoj lokaciji uz more, Frauke Aulbert i njezine kolegice na originalan su naËin pokazale da Novalja, uz 24-satnu zabavu na ZrÊu, moæe ponuditi i ve-oma kvalitetan kulturni program.

Frauke Aulbert, Hamburg’s queen of avant-garde, owes her title to the ex-

traordinary vocal range of four octaves and an enviable virtuosity which comprises many singing techniques including overtone singing and producing multifonics with her voice, in addition to the classical singing techniques. In the course of her education, she studied different music genres including gamelan, jazz, French chanson, beatbox and other contemporary types of singing. Having completed her studies at the top schools in Kiel, Hamburg and Tenerife, during which she also wrote a dissertation on overtone singing, Frauke Aulbert has performed all over Europe and further afi eld on stages in the USA, Tunisia, Georgia and Brazil. In the course of last year alone, Frauke Aulbert appeared on Radio France, the ZKM in Karlsruhe, at the Grimeborn Festival in London and at the most famous international summer seminar for

contemporary music in Darmstadt. Among the numerous recognitions for her work, the most important is the award she received in 2009 by the Stockhausen Foundation for her remarkable interpretation of Stockhausen’s pieces as well as the international award Music Theatre NOW, which she won in 2012.The reason for her visit to Croatia was a new festival of contemporary music and art titled, Novalis music+art festival, which took place on August 28th in the main square in Novalja in the organization of a group of young Croatian musicians: Davor B. Vincze, Sanja LasiÊ and Ivana Biliπko. − This festival offers a new approach to the way we listen to classical music and it dispels the stigma of the conventional relationship between a performer and an audience, said Mr. Vincze, and added to that: − During our education abroad, we became aware of the trend which brings contem-porary music closer to art with the help of a different concept: removing the barrier between listeners and musicians and of-fering audiences a different experience of contemporary music. In other words, the festival’s motto was 3I − Inovation, Interdisciplinarity and Inter-action. Inovation implies, fi rst and foremost, the new media as well as the totality of non-concert ways of presenting music which includes unorthodox outdoor venues, performers’ movements, the involvement of audiences who make independent decisions on how they wish to listen to music and also perform-ing only music by living authors. Interdisciplinarity refers to the fact that a majority of the performed pieces connects contemporary music with related art forms

such as video installations, contemporary dance, theatre and others. One of the biggest problems today is cap-tivating audiences’ attention which is why Interaction is the key word; interaction be-tween an audience and a performer aimed at drawing the listeners successfully into the performance itself. For the same reason, the upcoming editions of the festival will feature various workshops, interviews with artists and round tables as well as public rehearsals so as to fully involve the festival’s visitors into the creation process. Thus, Novalis is a place where professionals engaged in different fi elds of art meet their audiences who are given the opportunity to witness new ideas resulting from their artistic cooperation. This year, during its pilot concert, Novalis presented the four soloists of the Forum Neue Vokalmusik ensemble: Frauke Aulbert, the leader and founder of the ensemble, Natasha López, Alessia Park and Marija Skender. During the concert, which took place on August 28th in Novalja, they per-formed music by well known living authors such as Aperghis, Saariaho, Szmytka, and a piece by Croatian composer Sanja LasiÊ. By singing, jumping, clapping, screaming and calling each other by megaphone, the girls pleasantly surprised and entertained a curi-ous audience gathered in the candle-lit main square in Novalja at sunset. By constantly changing their positions in an attractive location by the sea, Frauke Aulbert and her colleagues chose a very original way to show that there is more to Novalja than round the clock partying at ZrÊe and that Novalja can offer a very high quality cultural programme as well.

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158 CROATIA AIRLINES

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150_Balon.indd 158 9/16/14 6:48 AM

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Prvih 10 putnika Croatia Airlinesa, koji se registriraju i aktiviraju svoj nextbike korisniËki raËun, dobivaju na dar nextbike korisniËku karticu potpuno besplatno. S nextbike kori-

sniËkom karticom moæete bræe i jednostavnije unajmiti bicikl. Prislonite je na senzor termi-nala, upiπete broj bicikla koji æelite unajmiti, sjednete i vozite! Ugodnu voænju æeli vam nextbike!

Sustav javnih gradskih bicikala nextbike, dostupan u brojnim europskim i svjetskim metropolama, u Hrvatskoj uspjeπno funkci-onira u Zagrebu i ©ibeniku. Nextbike je izvr-sna nadopuna javnoga gradskog prijevoza, pomaæe u lakπem, bræem i zdravijem kretanju kroz grad, izbjegavanju guævi, rjeπava pro-blem parkiranja i πtedi vaπ novac. Nextbike pridonosi zaπtiti okoliπa, obogaÊuje turistiËku ponudu i opÊenito utjeËe na poboljπanje kvalitete æivota u gradu. Jedanput kad se registrirate u Zagrebu ili ©ibeniku, nextbike bicikle moÊi Êete unajmljivati u viπe od 80 gradova u svijetu!

Flying to Zagreb? The most exciting

and pocket friendly way to explore the

city is by bike! From now on all Croatia

Airlines passengers enjoy 150 minutes

free bike ride per day as soon as they

activate standard tariff for only 79 HRK!

Register, sit and ride:)

There are only four simple steps that will put you on the bicycle seat:

1. Register at https://nextbike.net/hr/en/zagreb/register/ 2. Activate your user account via credit card for only 79 HRK and use it as a prepaid amount for bike rentals3. Send us your fi rst and last name, address, number of your plane ticket and the date of your last fl ight to info@nextbike.hr and your Fly & Bike tariff will be active within 24 hours4. Rent a bike, sit and ride!

Nextbike bike sharing system is available in many European and other cities worldwide and is also available in Zagreb and ©ibenik. It is a perfect addition to the existing public transport network. It will help you in easier, faster and healthier commuting in the city, avoiding traffi c jams and parking problems and saving your money! Nextbike protects the environment, enriches tourist offer and it has a positive impact on the quality of life in urban areas in general. Once registered, you can use nextbike bikes in more than 80 cities worldwide!

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■ IZ NAŠEG ZRAKOPLOVA FROM OUR AIRCRAFT

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CROATIA AIRLINES 161

Piše/By Dubravka Belas Fotografi je/Photos Nenad Reberšak

»asopis Croatia predstavlja Hrvatsku, njezinu slavnu povijest i kulturu, drevne gradove, profi njenu

arhitekturu, raskoπne prirodne ljepote, ljude i obiËaje, æivopisnu, divnu sliku zemlje, koju vam daruje

Croatia Airlines da je ponesete sa sobom i, joπ dugo poslije putovanja, uæivate u njoj. »asopis je prozor

u Hrvatsku, ali u njegovoj raskoπnoj ponudi tema zacijelo Êe vas zaintrigirati i pogled kroz prozor na

letovima prema nekome od naπih odrediπta.

The magazine showcases Croatia, its glorious past and culture, ancient cities, refi ned architecture,

breathtaking natural beauty, people and customs, providing a colourful, enchanting image of a country.

It is Croatia Airlines’ gift to its passengers. You are more than welcome to take it home and enjoy it for

days to come even after your trip is over. The magazine is your window into Croatia. Having said that,

the topics in it may be interesting and diverse, but you will certainly be intrigued by the view through

the aircraft window as you fl y to one of our destinations.

OU 667 Dubrovnik-Zagreb

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Proπli ste sve aerodromske formalnosti, prehodali duge hodnike zraËne luke, pronaπli svoj gate, ukrcali se, smjestili,

s olakπanjem odahnuli i zavalili se u udobno sjedalo aviona Croatia Airlinesa. Prepustili ste kontrolu iskusnoj posadi i pristali biti dio ovoga smirujuÊeg prostora koji Êe vas za sat ili dva, kroz ledene oblake, dovesti do odrediπta. Ne-kima od vas, onima najzaposlenijima, trenuci provedeni na letu moæda su i jedini predah izmeu sastanaka i telefoniranja.Velika je vjerojatnost da Êete najprije pregledati sadræaj dæepa sjedala ispred vas. A meu ostalim standardnim stvarima ondje Êete naÊi − i putni Ëasopis. U 2014. godini Croatia Airlines slavi Ëak dva velika jubileja − srebr-nu obljetnicu tvrtke i dvadesetu godiπnjicu izlaæenja putnog Ëasopisa. I dok se vaπi suputnici joπ komeπaju gore-dolje po pro-lazu, vi Êete veÊ listati glatke, sjajne stranice Ëasopisa koji se zove jednostavno − Croatia, poput zemlje Ëiju ste nacionalnu kompaniju odabrali za svoj let. Moæda Êe vam to biti i prvi dodir s ovom lijepom, malom zemljom na jugoistoku Europe, pa eto razloga viπe da je bolje upoznate.Istraæivanja su pokazala da 80 posto putnika doista proËita Ëasopis koji im kompanije po-nude i da provedu prosjeËno 30 minuta leta ËitajuÊi ih, ili barem listajuÊi, Ëak i danas kad

se putnicima nude i drugi oblici zabave tijekom leta. »injenica je da su u sveobuhvatnoj krizi, koja je zahvatila i izdavaËku industriju, putni Ëasopisi trpjeli mnogo manje od ostalih. To je ljepπa strana priËe, dijelom zahvaljujuÊi poznatom broju Ëitatelja, sigurnoj i besplat-noj distribuciji, bez remitende, no stvar se komplicira kad znamo da se, prema svakoj teoriji izdavaπtva, mora toËno identifi cirati i opsluæivati svoja specifi Ëna publika − pa su zato uspjeπniji i stabilniji oni koji su pronaπli svoju stalnu æanrovsku i Ëitateljsku niπu, svoje specifi Ëno træiπte. Sad zamislite tko je samo danas sjedio na istom sjedalu prije vas: poslovni Ëovjek iz Franfkurta, redovnica iz hercegovaËkog Meugorja, nepraÊeno desetogodiπnje dijete iz Pariza, Ëlan hrvatske posade izvan duænosti, turistica iz Dublina, umirovljena dadilja iz Tokija, bacaË kladiva iz Taπkenta i imat Êete sliku πiroke lepeze Ëitatelja, kakvu nije moguÊe jednostavno ciljati. Iskreno, nije ju uopÊe moguÊe ciljati. Zato, imperativno, Ëasopis mora biti dopadljiv svima − ponajprije vizualno kako bi bio πto privlaËniji − neπto poput slikovnice za odrasle, kakvu bi poæeljela listati i djeca. A svrha je sadræaja Croatije putniku pribliæiti ponajprije Hrvatsku, njezine prirodne ljepote i kulturnu baπtinu, s ponekom priËom iz

OU 4436 Zagreb-München

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CROATIA AIRLINES 163

letovima prema nekome od naπih odrediπta. Poglede je za vas snimio Nenad Reberπak, viπestruko nagraivani fotoreporter i strastveni putnik na sjedalu uz prozor.Pogled kroz prozor aviona, uvijek razliËit, zadivljujuÊe je ostvarenje naπih djetinjskih sno-va: pa i kad je vidljivost slaba, uvijek moæete zamisliti elfe, nestaπne zraËne duhove πto se duboko dolje noÊu igraju po neosvijetljenim livadama. Joπ je bolje kad letite iznad nabo-ranih planinskih lanaca pod snijegom poput goleme zapeËene meringe, iznad smarag-dnog æelea gorskih jezera i mentolne modrine mora, divnih plavih vrpci rijeËnih delta, æutih, zelenih, smeih polja, mekog barπuna kakvim se s visine doimaju πume. Katkad Êete upor-no pratiti malu sjenu aviona, dostiænu tek pri slijetanju. Vidjet Êete strukture koje su ljudi sagradili u tim Ëarobnim predjelima, brane, mostove, osvijetljene gradove, vidjet Êete blije-di dim koji se ponekad uzdiæe iz dimnjaka neke usamljene planinske kolibe, neke tvornice, a ubrzo se rasplinuo. Vidjet Êete vijugave ceste koje povezuju ljude, gradove u kojima æive, a ipak nikad ne vidite ljude same; uvijek je to dekirikovski krajolik, pomalo uznemirujuÊe oËiπÊen od, makar siÊuπnih, ljudskih likova, poput nekoga bezazlenoga dana poslije, bez vidljive destrukcije ili ikakve negativne konotacije.

æivota kompanije, odrediπtima koja povezu-je, razgovorima s ljudima koji je stvaraju ili sa slavnim ljudima koji njome Ëesto putuju. Napokon, i s vaænim informacijama o kom-panijskoj fl oti, letovima, poslovnicama… Zbog svoje informativnosti i znaËenja i za turistiËku promidæbu, dijeli se ne samo zrakoplovnim putnicima, nego i agentima i predstavnicima na turistiËkim sajmovima te medijima. Teme koje obrauje bogate su i raznovrsne, pa je Croatia jedan od Ëasopisa s najveÊim brojem stranica i s veoma kvalitetnim fotografi jama i tekstovima meu 150 sliËnih, koji se danas izdaju u svijetu. Svojom snaænom, karakter-nom vizualnoπÊu refl ektira vizualni identitet Hrvatske i same tvrtke Croatia Airlines pa se, logiËno, njegov produæeni æivot odvija i u programima emitiranima videosustavom u zrakoplovima, a brojevi posljednjih nekoliko godina mogu se u online izdanju pregledati i na internetskoj stranici kompanije.»asopis Croatia predstavlja Hrvatsku, njezinu slavnu povijest i kulturu, drevne gradove, pro-fi njenu arhitekturu, raskoπne prirodne ljepote, ljude i obiËaje, æivopisnu, divnu sliku zemlje, koju vam daruje Croatia Airlines da je pone-sete sa sobom i, joπ dugo poslije putovanja, uæivate u njoj. »asopis je prozor u Hrvatsku, ali u njegovoj raskoπnoj ponudi tema zacijelo Êe vas zaintrigirati i pogled kroz prozor na

OU 656 Zagreb-Split

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164 CROATIA AIRLINES

OU 674 Zagreb-Pula

OU 442 Zagreb-BeË

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CROATIA AIRLINES 165

A opet su te tople naznake postojanja drugih ljudi, drugih duπa, na drugim mjestima, drage i ohrabrujuÊe; mi nismo sami na tome svijetu, pa Ëak ni taj usamljeni leteÊi brod u kojemu nakratko dijelite sudbinu s drugim putnicima, samo je jedan od mnogih Ëiji Êe se bijeli tragovi ukrstiti na nebu. Pusti me samo da se vinem u to nebo, u njego-vo bespuÊe. Pusti me samo da dijelim njegove oblake, da πirim krila u sjaju njegovoga sunca, pjevao je Rabindranath Tagore, a vi se pitate odakle mu to iskustvo, kad je on to mogao na tmuran ili maglovit dan uzletjeti, prodrijeti kroz zatvorene i guste oblake sve do bljeπtavila na visinama na kojima je uvijek sunce. Neke od najspektakularnijih zora ili zalazaka sunca moÊi Êete vidjeti kroz prozor aviona Croatia Airlinesa − poput zalaska na Jadranskome moru, koji je svojim objektivom saËuvao naπ fotograf, putni romantiËar poput svih onih koji traæe mjesto uz prozor; zaËarani prizor u kojem se sunce sklanja ispod horizonta, negdje is-pod morske povrπine, razlijevajuÊi svoju vatru unaokolo pa se i nebo i more i, inaËe od πume zatamnjen otok Mljet, doimaju zapaljenima, i taj je proliveni plamen jednako rumen, zlatan i silan poput kakvoga πumskog poæara. Ili te zore nad morem, ruæiËaste i sive, u kojima se ne vidi razlika ni granica izmeu neba i mora. Danaπnji putnici mogu samo æaliti za proπlim vremenima, kad su, sve do ranih devedesetih, vrata cockpita katkad bila otvorena na slije-tanju, pa su i putnici uz prolaz mogli doÊi na svoje - i danju, a osobito noÊu, vidjeti kako se osvijetljena pista pruæa pred pilotima.A tek oblaci... poput lopti od pamuka ili bijele pjene... Jeste li znali da je Lijepa Helena, zbog Ëijega je lica pokrenuto tisuÊe brodova, bila tek privienje oblaka, Ëarolija Protejeva, puki trik kojim se zameÊu ratovi. Oblaci su i Ëarobne Zeusove igraËke iz kojih se raaju kentauri. Oblaci su pregrade izmeu dvaju svjetova; isprva izgledaju guste i Ëvrste poput gruda snijega, gotovo odmoriπta, a onda i najmanja ptica proleti kroz njih poput metka i otkrije nam da su, zapravo, laki i prozraËni poput prvih ljubavnih snova. I varljivi, jer ne mogu nas zadræati u svojem zagrljaju, kako se god predstavljali.I svejedno je li rijeË o paperjastim cirusima, oteæalim nimbusima koji sav svoj vodeni teret izlijevaju kÊerima Oceana rasprπenima po otocima; svejedno je jesu li ih vjetrovi oblikovali u bijele leÊe rasute svodom, ili je rijeË o gole-mim, cvatuÊim nakovnjima kumulonimbusa koje Êe svaka posada, s respektom, briæljivo zaobilaziti; svi su jednako oËaravajuÊi, koliko god im ljepotu znanost razotkrivala podukom o sastavu i tvorbi. Joπ samo da imate sreÊe jedanput, neke bistre i mirne ljetne noÊi, kad

OU 414 Zagreb-Frankfurt

OU 414 Zagreb-Frankfurt

OU 490 Zagreb-London

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166 CROATIA AIRLINES

je sunce veÊ ispod obzora, opaziti one rijetke, najviπe oblake, noktilucentne, Ëiji Êe siÊuπni ledeni kristali svijetliti plavom ili rumenom svjetloπÊu, tako slobodni, tako neobjaπnjivo nadmoÊni nad gravitacijom. A kad oblaka nema, otkrit Êe vam se sva raskoπ divnih gradova koje prepoznajete sustavno, poput enigmatiËara, kad ih gledate pri slijetanju - vatikanskoga grada s kupolom sv. Petra i apostolskom palaËom, dijelove vjeËnoga grada presjeËenog zelenom æilom Tibra; vidjete Êete ljeskanje zavojite Temze, πarm pariπkih krovova, praktiËnost beËkih ringova; otkrit Êe vam se zatim Alpe, Ëak i one neπto pravilnijega i stroæeg rastera u mrkome njemaËkome i πvicarskome dijelu, od blaæega i zelenijega u francuskome i ta-lijanskome dok se snjeænim prstima pruæaju prema Sredozemlju.U Hrvatskoj upravo je kroz avionski prozor najlakπe zapaziti bogatstvo potpuno razliËitih krajolika skupljenih na nevelikom prostoru, na jednome mjestu, poput izloæbe, izloæbe samo za vas. Tek iz zraka moæete razumjeti zaπto se polja u Slavoniji nazivaju zlatnima, ili zaπto je Zagreb metropola po mjeri Ëovjeka. Duboko zelenilo Gorskoga kotara, udoline ispunjene maglom kao da je netko u njih natoËio mlijeko, ljepota Like i PlitviËkih jezera; uvijek osunËani istarski trokut, a onda, prema jugu, niska pre-divnih gradova ugnijeæenih u uvalama ispod kamenih planina, od Rijeke, preko Zadra, ©ibenika, Splita, Trogira, onih najveÊih, sve do krunskog dragulja Dubrovnika, svi oni s otoci-ma preko puta, od pustog biserja Kornata, do otoËkih gradova u kojima se kao u zrcalima,

ogledaju − jednako lijepi, jednako uzbudljivi. Pa se pitate − hoÊete li ikad imati vremena sve ih posjetiti, jer svi zasluæuju mnogo viπe od preleta i pogleda s visine, danju, kad se doimaju pustima; ili noÊu kad æmirkaju svojim svjetlima u dubini. Tada postanete radoznali, svjesni pulsiranja æivota u njima, istoga onog æivota koji nam jasno poruËuje − da samo sanjati jednostavno nije dovoljno.

All airport formalities are behind you; you have done the long walk through the airport building corridors, found

your gate, boarded your plane and located your seat; you breathed a sigh of relief and you are sitting comfortably in the seat of your Croatia Airlines aircraft. You have ceded con-trol to the experienced fl ight crew and allowed yourself to be immersed into the soothing atmosphere of the aircraft, which will take you through icy clouds to your destination in an hour or two. For the busiest ones amongst you, that short fl ight will be the only break between meetings and telephone calls.Soon, you will be checking the contents of the seatback sleeve in front of you and you will fi nd our in-fl ight magazine there. The year 2014 is marked by two important anniversa-ries for Croatia Airlines: the company’s silver jubilee and the twentieth anniversary of its in-fl ight magazine. And while your fellow-passengers are still walking up and down the aisle, you are already leafi ng through the supple and glossy pages of the magazine titled simply, Croatia, like the country whose national air carrier you have chosen to fl y with. This will possibly be your fi rst encounter with this small beautiful land in the southeast of Europe - even more reason to get to know it better.Surveys have shown that 80 per cent of airline passengers read the magazines offered to them by air carriers and spend an average of 30 minutes of fl ying time reading or at least leafi ng through them, even today when other onboard entertainment options are available. Despite the overall crisis that has hit the economy, including the publishing industry, in-fl ight magazines have suffered consider-ably less than other publications. This is the brighter side of the story, due partly to the fact that in-fl ight magazines have a highly predictable number of readers, a safe and free distribution channel and no unsold copies. However, it is not as simple as that. Things get more complicated bearing in mind the universally accepted publishing theory which says that knowing one’s readership well is the key to providing it with good service. This is why publications with a well defi ned reader-

ship niche and a specifi c market are more successful and stable than others. And now, having read this, try to imagine who could have occupied your seat before you: a businessman from Frankfurt, a nun from Meugorje in Herzegovina, an unaccompa-nied minor from Paris, a dead head Croatia Airlines crew member, a retired nanny from Tokyo, or a javelin thrower from Tashkent. As you do that, you will get the picture of a vast array of readers who are anything but easy to target. Therefore, universal appeal is an absolute must for an in-fl ight magazine. First of all, it has to make a strong visual impression and be as attractive as possible − like a picture book for adults that also appeals to children. As for Croatia’s contents, the aim is to bring Croatia closer to its readers, to showcase the country’s natural wealth and cultural heritage; to fl avour everything with a story or two from the company’s day-to-day business operations, the destinations it connects, interviews with people who make the airline tick and celebrities who often use its services. Last, but not least, it needs to provide all-important information about the company’s fl eet, services, offi ces... Owing to the information it offers and its importance in tourist promotion, Croatia is handed out not only to the airline’s passengers but also distributed to agents and industry represen-tatives at trade fairs as well as to the media. The wide range of topics it covers makes Croatia one of the in-fl ight magazines with the greatest number of pages; the remark-ably high quality photos and texts make it stand out among the 150 similar publications currently available worldwide. Its strong and characterfull design refl ects the visual identity of Croatia as a country and Croatia Airlines as its national air carrier. It is, therefore, only logical that its life-cycle has been extended into onboard video broadcast. In the last few years, all issues can be viewed online on the company’s website. The magazine showcases Croatia, its glori-ous past and culture, ancient cities, refi ned architecture, breathtaking natural beauty, people and customs, providing a colourful, enchanting image of a country. It is Croatia Airlines’ gift to its passengers. You are more than welcome to take it home and enjoy it for days to come even after your trip is over. The magazine is your window into Croatia. Having said that, the topics in it may be interesting and diverse, but you will certainly be intrigued by the view through the aircraft window as you fl y to one of our destinations. The photos of those views were taken for you

OU 460 Zagreb-Zürich

OU 657 Split-Zagreb

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CROATIA AIRLINES 167

by Nenad Reberπak, a multiple award-winning photographer and a passionate window seat passenger himself.An ever changing view through an aircraft window is like a childhood dream come true in a most wonderful way: even when visibility is poor, you can always imagine elves, playful ghosts who live in the element air and twist and twirl deep down below you as they play their night-time games in poorly lit meadows. Better still, you will fl y over the rugged moun-tain ranges covered with snow which makes them look like a huge heap of meringue; above the jelly-like emerald mountain lakes and the mint blue coloured sea, the beautiful blue bands of river deltas, yellow, green and brown fi elds... the soft velvet that are forests seen from above. You will pass the time in following the small aircraft shadow, reachable only at landing. You will see structures built by humans in fascinating places: dams, bridges, brightly lit cities; you will see the pale smoke rising from the chimney of a lonely mountain lodge or a factory, smoke there one moment and gone the next. You will discern winding roads connecting people and cities they live in; however, you will never see people themselves. The landscape is always De Chiricoesque, disturbingly divested of people, even the tiniest human characters, strongly reminiscent of a harmless day after without a trace of destruction or negative connotation. And yet again, these heart-warming signs of the existence of other people, other souls, in other places, are so endearing and encourag-ing. They tell us we are not alone in this world. Even this lonely fl ying vessel in which you are sitting comfortably and sharing a brief mo-ment of your existence with other passengers is actually just one of the many whose white traces will cross paths in the sky. To quote Rabindranath Tagore Let me but soar in that sky, in its lonely immensity. Let me but cleave its clouds and spread wings in its sunshine.You may wonder where the poet’s experience comes from; how could he possibly soar in the sky on a dark or foggy day? How could he penetrate the impenetrable thick clouds all the way to the heights where the sun always shines? You will be able to see some of the most spectacular sunrises or sunsets through a Croatia Airlines window, like the sunset over the Adriatic Sea captured by the lens of our photographer, a romantic traveller who always asks for a window seat; a fascinating scene depicting the sun setting below the horizon, below the surface of the sea, while spilling its fi re so that the sky and the sun, and the island of Mljet whose forests always make it

look dark, look ablaze. That liquid blaze is as crimson, gold and mighty as a real forest fi re.Or the rosy and gray sunrises above the sea which make the boundary between the sky and the sea blurred. Modern-day travellers can only long for the days gone when, up to the early 90’s, cockpit doors were open dur-ing landing so that even the passengers in the aisle seats could benefi t from a spectacular view during the day and even more so during night: the brightly lit runway extending before the pilots’ eyes as the aircraft started landing, luring and seducing them like a mistress as if it was coming up towards the plane, while at the same time descending upon it.And clouds… like cotton balls or white foam… Did you know that Belle Helene, whose face launched a thousand ships, was nothing but a cloudy apparition, a Proteus’ spell, a mere trick to start a war? Clouds are also Zeus’s magical toys which give birth to centaurs. Clouds are partitions between two worlds; at fi rst glance, they look thick and fi rm like snow balls, almost like places where one could lay to rest, and even then the smallest of birds zooms through them like a bullet and exposes them for what they really are: light and ethereal like the fi rst love dreams, and also deceitful because they can keep us in their embrace no matter how they present themselves to us. Whatever they are − the feathery cirrus, the cumbrous nimbus which unloads all of its water loads to the daughters of the Ocean scattered across islands; it makes no differ-ence whether winds have shaped them into white cells dispersed across the celestial sphere or whether they are huge, fl ourishing anvils of the cumulonimbus which every fl y-ing crew will give a wide berth with respect; they are all equally fascinating no matter how much science exposes their beauty for what it is teaching us about their composition and formation. With a bit of luck, on a clear and balmy summer night, when the sun is already below the horizon, you will spot the rarest and highest of clouds, the noctilucents and the blue or red glitter of their minute icy crystals, so free and so inexplicably stronger than gravity.On a cloud-free day, the splendour of beauti-ful cities reveals itself to you and you start a mental guessing game: what is it that you see as your aircraft approaches the runway? Like a puzzle solver, you start identifying the sights below you: the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica and the Apostolic Palace in the Vatican, parts of the Eternal City intersected by the green vein of the Tiber; the glitter of the meandering Thames River; the delightful charm of Parisian rooftops, or the practical arrangement of the

rings in Vienna; the Alps will reveal them-selves to you, their somewhat more regularly shaped and strictly aligned parts in the darker German and Swiss regions and their softer and greener slopes in France and Italy, or their snow-covered fi ngers stretching deep towards the Mediterranean. An aircraft window is the perfect medium to communicate the amazing diversity of land-scapes in such a small area that is Croatia, like an exhibition, staged just for you. Only from so high up can you understand why the fi elds of Slavonia are dubbed golden, or why Zagreb is a metropolis made to human measure. The deep verdant of Gorski Kotar, mountain gorges fi lled up with milk-like fog, the beauty of Lika and Plitvice Lakes, the eternally sun-drenched Istrian triangle, and then, towards the south of the country, a string of beautiful cities nestled in bays at the foot of stony mountain ranges; Rijeka, Zadar, ©ibenik, Split, Trogir, to mention only the biggest ones, and the crown jewel that is Dubrovnik; all of them with islands off their shores, including the desolate string of pearls known as the Kornati archipelago, and island towns mir-rored in the sea − all equally beautiful, equally exciting. And you cannot help but wonder if you will ever have the time to visit them all, because they deserve so much more than a brief fl yover and a view from above, in daylight, when they look deserted, and at night when their lights fl icker deep down below you. You become curious, aware of the life pulsating in them, the same life which sends us a clear message: dreaming is simply not enough.

OU 490 Zagreb-London

OU 490 Zagreb-London

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168 CROATIA AIRLINES

award is holding a concert at the Stu-dent Centre Cinema. www.eventim.hr19.-26.10., ZagrebZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL/

ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL

Filmove koji nisu komercijalni, nego teæe umjetniËkim ostvarenjima i posta-ju hitovima, moæete pogledati na Za-greb Film Festivalu. Projekcije fi lmova praÊene su i izvrsnim koncertima./The Zagreb Film Festival brings uncom-mercial fi lms which strive for artistic achievement and become box-offi ce hits. Film projections are accompanied by superb concert performances. www.zagrebfi lmfestival.com

Sisak i okolica/Sisak and

surroundings

10.- 12.10., Hrvatska KostajnicaKESTENIJADA/KESTENIJADA −

CHESTNUT FESTIVAL

Moæete sudjelovati u berbi kestena i kuπati razliËita jela i slastice od ke-stena./You are invited to take part in chestnut picking and sample various chestnut-based savoury and sweet dishes. www.hrvatska-kostajnica.hr

GospiÊ i okolica/GospiÊ and

surroundings

4. i 5.10., GospiÊJESEN U LICI/AUTUMN IN LIKA

Ova manifestacija, uz predstavljanje malih liËkih gospodarstava i poduzet-nika, nudi i izloæbu koja Êe prikazati karakteristiËne prehrambene, upo-rabne i ukrasne predmete. Izloæbu prate kulturno-umjetniËka druπtva koja Êe upotpuniti doæivljaj./Besides

28.9., Viæinada BICIKLISTI»KI MARATON

PARENZANA/OL ISTRIA MTB

TOUR − PARENZANA CUBE −

PARENZANA CYCLING TOUR

Rekreativni biciklistiËki maraton sva-ke godine okuplja sve viπe ljubitelja rekreativnog biciklizma iz Hrvatske i drugih europskih zemalja. OËekuju vas zanimljivi prigodni programi i druæenje./ Every year, this recreational cycling tour gathers an increasing number of cycling recreationists and fans from both Croatia and abroad, with packed entertainment programmes and good fun for all. www.parenzana.com

LISTOPAD/OCTOBER

Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and

surroundings

10.-18.10., ZagrebZAGREB KOM 8/ZAGREB KOM 8

U Hrvatskome glazbenom zavodu odræava se 9. zagrebaËki meunarodni festival komorne glazbe, na kojemu moæete posluπati vrhunske izvedbe./The Croatian Music Institute is hosting the 9th Zagreb International Chamber Music Festival featuring top perfor-mances. www.zagreb-festival.org19.10., ZagrebKONCERT JOAN BAEZ/JOAN

BAEZ IN CONCERT

Legendarna country pjevaËica, akti-vistica i dobitnica nagrade za æivotno djelo, odræat Êe koncert u Kinu SC./The legendary country singer, activist and recipient of a lifetime achievement

* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara This schedule is valid on August 15th. Allow for change after this date.

Varaædin i okolica/Varaædin and

surroundings

20.9.-2.10., VaraædinVARAÆDINSKE BAROKNE

VE»ERI/VARAÆDIN BAROQUE

EVENINGS

Tijekom trinaest festivalskih dana moÊi Êete uæivati u baroknoj glazbi i gostovanju domaÊih i stranih glaz-benika, a osobito zanimljivi bit Êe koncerti Venecijanskoga baroknog ansambla./ The 13 days of the festival feature plenty of baroque music with guest appearances by both Croatian and international musicians, including a particularly interesting performance by the Venice Baroque Orchestra.www.vbv.hr

Pula i okolica/Pula and

surroundings

6.9.-30.11., Buzet, Motovun, LivadeDANI TARTUFA U ISTRI/DAYS

OF TRUFFLES IN ISTRIA

Tartuf, vrhunska delicija koja je joπ prije 4000 godina draæila nepca mezopotamskih vladara, i danas je jedan od prestiænih sastojaka svjetske gastronomije. Istarski bijeli tartuf zri u jesen i najbolje je kuπati tu rijetku blagodat odmah u izvornom okruæju./Truffl e, the exquisite delicacy which tantalised the palates of Mesopota-mian rulers 4,000 years ago, is still one of the most luxurious ingredients in global gastronomy. Istrian white truffl es ripen in autumn and the best way to enjoy this rare delicacy is to savour it fresh in its natural environ-ment.www.istria-gourmet.com

RUJAN/SEPTEMBER

Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and

surroundings

25.-28.9., Zagreb10. INTERNACIONALNI FESTIVAL

EKSPERIMENTALNOG FILMA I

VIDEA/ 10th INTERNATIONAL

EXPERIMENTAL FILM AND

VIDEO FESTIVAL

Mnoge zanimljive fi lmove πto Êe ih predstaviti autori u Studentskom centru moæete pogledati na festivalu koji prati najnoviju produkciju avan-gardnoga i eksperimentalnog fi lma./ Showcasing the recent production of avant-garde and experimental fi lms, this is a festival of fascinating fi lms presented by authors at the Student Centre.www.25fps.hr

30.9., ZagrebKONCERT IL DIVO/IL DIVO

CONCERT

U Areni Zagreb nastupit Êe svjetski popularan kvartet Il Divo, koji Êe svoj drugi koncert na toj pozornici odræati u sklopu nove turneje Il Divo − A Musical Affair: najbolje pjesme s Broadwaya uæivo./ The globally popular quartet Il Divo is performing at Zagreb Arena for the second time as part of their latest Il Divo − A Musical Affair: The Greatest Songs of Broadway Live tour.www.eventim.hr

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CROATIA AIRLINES 169

St Martin’s Day in November, grape turns into wine. Popular St Martin’s festivities are a deeply rooted tradi-tion of the north-western regions of Croatia and are particularly marked in the Zagreb County.www.tz-samobor.hr29.11., ZagrebKONCERT ANDREJE BOCELLIJA/

ANDREA BOCELLI IN CONCERT

Proslavljeni talijanski tenor i istinska svjetska glazbena zvijezda, Andrea Bocelli, odræat Êe svoj veliki solistiËki koncert pred zagrebaËkom publikom u Areni Zagreb./The celebrated Italian tenor and a true global star Andrea Bocelli is holding a big solo concert at Zagreb Arena. www.eventim.hr

Osijek i okolica/Osijek and

surroundings

9.-10.11., KutjevoPUTEVIMA PANDURA/ON THE

TRAIL OF THE TRENK

TROOPERS

Ova manifestacija održava se ispred povijesnog dvorca u Kutjevu i ukljuËuje povijesni prikaz posjeta carice Marije Terezije Kutjevu 1741. godine te njezin susret s barunom Trenkom i njegovim pandurima./Taking place before the historical Manor of Kutjevo, this event is an enactment of the visit of Empress Maria Theresa to Kutjevo in 1741, and

presenting small businesses and entrepreneurs from Lika, this event offers an exhibition featuring typical kitchenalia and decorative objects. Folklore group performances will complete the experience.www.licko-senjska.hrRijeka i okolica/Rijeka and

surroundings

1.10. - 30.11., PunatDANI MASLINA/OLIVE DAYS

Ovo dogaanje krËkim gostima pre-zentira svu raskoπ kvalitetnog ploda masline. To je jedinstvane prilika da sudjelujete u berbi maslina i osjetite otoËku svakodnevicu./Guests of the Island of Krk will be able to experience the luxury of quality olive fruit, present-ing them with a unique opportunity to pick olives and experience everyday insular life. www.tzpunat.hr24.-26.10., LovranMARUNADA/MARUNADA

CHESTNUT FESTIVAL

Ponuda maruna, kolaËa i ostalih sla-stica od maruna, domaÊa jela, jela s marunima, med od maruna, medica, uz cjelodnevni glazbeni i zabavni program u središtu Lovrana./Roast chestnuts, chestnut cakes and other sweet delights, local chestnut dishes, chestnut honey and chestnut liqueurs are offered against the backdrop of music and entertainment programmes

her encounter with Baron Trenk and his troopers. www.najboljeuhrvatskoj.info

PROSINAC/DECEMBER

Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and

surroundings

Prosinac, ZagrebADVENT U ZAGREBU/ADVENT

IN ZAGREB

U srcu Zagreba - na Trgu bana JelaËiÊa, kao i na ostalim trgovima i uli-cama grada, u sklopu te tradicionalne blagdanske manifestacije, organizira se bogat kulturno-zabavni program./At the heart of Zagreb, the Ban JelaËiÊ Square, as well as other squares and streets of the City, cultural and enter-tainment programmes are organised as part of traditional holiday festivities. www.adventzagreb.com

taking place the whole day in the cen-tre of Lovran.www.tz-lovran.hr

Zadar i okolica/Zadar and

surroundings

23.-26.10., BiogradBIOGRAD BOAT SHOW 2014./

BIOGRAD BOAT SHOW 2014

Biogradski jesenski nautiËki sajam mjesto je gdje moæete dobiti informa-cije o plovidbi i dobro se zabaviti./The Biograd Boat Show is the place to get fi rst-hand sailing information and have good fun. www.marinakornati.com

STUDENI/NOVEMBER

Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and

surroundings

11.11., Dugo Selo, Samobor, Sv. Ivan Zelina, Velika Gorica, JastrebarskoMARTINJE U ZAGREBA»KOJ

ÆUPANIJI/ST MARTIN’S DAY IN

THE ZAGREB COUNTY

U studenome na Dan sv. Martina moπt se pretvara u vino. Popularno Martinje obiËaj je koji je duboko ukorijenjen u tradiciju sjeverozapadnih krajeva Hr-vatske pa se tako joπ i danas posebno obiljeæava u ZagrebaËkoj æupaniji./On

168 Dogadjanja.indd 169 9/12/14 5:33 PM

170 CROATIA AIRLINES

Rođendansko slavlje Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa.

Dvostruko slavlje, dvostruke pogodnosti! Proslavite i vi 45. rođendan Diners Cluba u Hrvatskoj te 25. rođendan Croatia Airlinesa i iskoristite pogodnosti:

- Diners Club Croatia Airlines i Visa Croatia Airlines kartice bez upisnine i članarine za prvu godinu korištenja

- rođendanski promotivni kod u vrijednosti od 200 kn koji možete iskoristiti prilikom online kupnje Croatia Airlines zrakoplovnih karata na www.croatiaairlines.hr, prema uvjetima objavljenim na stranici

Diners Club Croatia Airlines i Visa Croatia Airlines kreditnim karticama možete kupovati na najvećem broju prodajnih mjesta u svijetu te istodobno skupljati nagradne milje* i osvojiti zrakoplovne karte.

*prema Pravilima nagradnog programa za korisnike Diners Club Croatia Airlines i Visa Croatia Airlines kartice

Nešto je posebno u zraku!www.erstecardclub.hr Info telefon: 01 4929 555

168 Dogadjanja.indd 170 9/12/14 5:33 PM

CROATIA AIRLINES 171

SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS

172NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST

LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED

176NOVOSTI

NEWS

178U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU

ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT

181FLOTA

FLEET

183ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

185ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

186ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI

WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL

188ADRESE

ADDRESSES

Na usluzi171.indd 171 9/12/14 5:33 PM

172 CROATIA AIRLINES

Miles & More

Osnove programa Mi les & Mo re

Mi les & Mo re naj ve Êi je pro gram na gra i va nja put-ni ka u Eu ro pi i nu di Ëla no vi ma ra zli Ëi te mo guÊ no sti pri kup lja nja mi lja i ko ri πte nja na gra da, kao i mno ge priv laË ne po god no sti. »la no vi pri kup lja ju mi lje ko ri ste Êi se uslu ga ma broj nih par tne ra u pro gra mu. Mi lje se bi lje æe za le to ve svih Ëla ni ca Star Al li an cea i dru gih kom pa ni ja par tne ra, ali i za unaj mlji va nje vo zi-la, od sje da nje u ho te li ma ili po tro πnju pre ko kre dit nih kar ti ca Mi les & Mo re.

Za tra æi te svo ju Di ners Club Cro a tia Air li nes kre-

dit nu kar ti cu!

n 5 ku na = 1 mi lja − za sva kih 5 ku na po tro πe nih pre ko ove kar ti ce, bi lje æi vam se 1 na grad na mi lja

Introducing Mi les & Mo re

Miles & More is the greatest frequent fl yer programme in Europe, offering its members numerous pos-sibilites for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many at trac ti ve pri vi le ges. Mem bers col lect mi les by using the ser vi ces of many par tners in the pro gram me. Mi les are cre di ted for fl ig hts of all Star Al li an ce mem-bers and ot her air li ne par tners, but al so for ren ting ve hi cles from rent-a-car par tners or sta ying in par-ti ci pa ting ho tels.

Ap ply for yo ur Di ners Club Cro a tia Air li nes cre dit

card!

n 5 HRK = 1 mi le − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you col lect 1 mi le

Kupujte eksluzivne proizvode

u Lufthansa WorldShopu −

moguÊa dostava u Hrvatsku!

Otkrijte naπ πiroki asortiman zanimljivih proizvoda kao πto su putne torbe i kovËezi, dodatna oprema, elektroniËki ureaji i ostali nezaobilazni proizvodi za putovanje i kuÊu. Posjetite nas na www.worldshop.eu ili u naπim prodavaonicama u zraËnim lukama. Moæete plaÊati gotovinom ili kreditnim karticama te Miles & More nagradnim miljama, a moguÊe je i kombinirati ta dva naËina plaÊanja. Shop for exclusive products

at Lufthansa WorldShop −

available for delivery to Croatia!

Discover our wide assortment of interesting products such as luggage, accessories, electronics, and other must-haves for on the move or at home. Visit us at www.worldshop.eu or in our airport shops. Available for purchase with cash or credit card, redeemable for Miles & More award miles, or a combination of both.

FF_milje.indd 172 9/12/14 5:30 PM

Pristupnica − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia ili na fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200Enrolment − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia or by fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200

Popunite i pošaljite / Complete and send off

Datum odlaska (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of departure (dd/mm/yyyy)

Molimo Vas da velikim štampanim slovima popunite polja podacima o svom trenutnom letu / Please fill in your current flight details in capital letters

Broj karte, etix®, ETKT (npr. 220 3000000474) / Ticket number, etix®, ETKT (e.g. 220 3000000474)

Br. leta (npr. LH 180) / Flight No. (e.g. LH 180)

Ruta (npr. Frankfurt−Paris) / Route (e.g. Frankfurt−Paris)

Molimo Vas da unesete naziv kompanije (nije obavezno) / Please enter name of company here (optional) Odjel (nije obavezno) / Department (optional)

Oslovljavanje / Salutation

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Molimo da napišete samo jednu adresu velikim, štampanim slovima / Please state only one address in capital letters

g / Mr. Dr.Ga / Mrs. Prof.

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Ime / First or given name

Ulica i broj, zgrada / Street and number, building

Država / Country

Odabirem jezik za komunikaciju / Preferred correspondence language: NjemaËki / German Engleski / English Ovisno o državi koja se prikazuje u Vašoj adresi, moguÊe je da Êete moÊi odabrati jezik od njih nekoliko dodatnih. Jezik korespondencije može varirati ovisno o mediju. Kako biste provjerili svoj raËun ili ažurirali svoj profil, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com/myprofile. / Based on the country shown in your address, additional languages may be available for you to choose from. The language of correspondence may vary depending on the medium. To check your account status or to update your profile, please visit miles-and-more.com/myprofile.

Datum / Date Potpis / Signature

* Imate pravo bilo kad povuÊi svoj pristanak, djelomiËno ili u cijelosti, tako da ažurirate svoj Miles & More profil online ili da nazovete Miles & More Servisni Centar na broj: 072 220 220 ili +49-69-66 10 23 30 10. Vaši dodatni komentari, za koje ne postoji predvien prostor, neÊe biti uzeti u obzir. / You have the right to revoke your consent at any time, inwhole or in part, by updating your Miles & More profile online or by calling the Miles & More Service Center at +49 - 69 - 66 10 23 30 10. Unfortunately all supplementary notes can not be considered.

Sudjelovanje u frequent flyer progamu Miles and More je podložno Pravilima i Uvjetima. Kako biste proËitali trenutna Pravila i Uvjete, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com. Registracija u Miles & More programu je besplatna. / Participation in the Miles & More frequent flyer program is subject to the Terms & Conditions. To read the current Terms & Conditions, please visit miles-and-more.com. Registration in the Miles & More program is free of charge.

0HR01

Æelim primati sljedeÊe i slažem se da se moji osobni podaci koriste za: / I would like to receive the following communication and agree to the usage of my personal data for communication:

Miles & More Online Newsletter / Miles & More Online Newsletter

Miles & More ponude posebno za Vas / Miles & More offers especially for you

Informacije o proizvodima Lufthanse iostalim Miles & More avio partnerima / Product information about Lufthansa and the Miles & More airline partners

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

pošta / postal

Podaci o Vašem Miles & More raËunu i Miles & More newsletter mogu jedino biti poslani elektroniËkom poštom. NeÊete ih primiti poštom; bilo kako bilo, svoj raËun milja u bilo kojevrijeme možete vidjeti na miles-and-more.com / Miles & More account information is only sent via the Miles & More online newsletter. There is no separate mailing.; however, you can view your mileage account anytime at miles-and-more.com.

Osoban odabir naËina komunikacije* / Personal communication preferences*

Datum roenja (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of birth (dd/mm/yyyy)

Grad / Town

Poštanski pretinac / PO Box

Telefon / Telephone Broj mobitela / Mobile number

+

e-mail / e-mail

Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo:• preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom• telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovuBit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti Vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let kojiste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekimdrugim partnerom u programu. Molimo Vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu.Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na straniciwww.miles-and-more.com. Molimo Vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak uzrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok Vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register:• Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By post• By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • With one of your flight attendantsWe will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flightstaken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner.Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to youraccount, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card andpassenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.

Miles & More

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Miles & More – start collecting miles now

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»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More,milje Êe Vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo Vas da pri svakoj rezervacijinavedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êetepoπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu.

Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe Vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation. You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collec ted one mile.

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once youhave provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu miljuna svom raËunu.We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.

Razred putovanja/Service class

Broj leta/Flight number

Broj karte/Document number

Klasa knjiæenja/Booking class

Ime/First name

Prezime/Surname

CROATIA AIRLINES 173

n Pri kup ljaj te na grad ne mi lje svuda − jed no stav no

pla Êaj te svo jom Di ners Club kar ti com na bi lo ko-

jemu od 12,000.000 DC pro daj nih mje sta u zem lji

i ino zem s tvu.

n Osvo ji te joπ vi πe mi lja − ko ri πte nje osta lih po god-

no sti Di ners Clu ba po put be s plat nih onli ne uslu ga,

e-pla Êa nja ili traj nih na lo ga do no si vam do dat ne

mi lje.

n 2 kar ti ce − 1 ra Ëun Mi les & More − ko ri stite li se

isto dob no pri vat nom i po slov nom kar ti com Di ners

Clu ba i Cro a tia Air li ne sa, pri kup lje ne na grad ne mi lje

zbra ja ju se na va πemu ra Ëu nu Mi les & Mo re.

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu

karticu!

Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia

Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu.

Potroπnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim

karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a

za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko

kartica u paru 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Za tra æi te svo ju Cro a tia Air li nes American Express

kre dit nu kar ti cu!

n 4 ku ne = 1 nagradna mi lja − za sva ke 4 ku ne po-

tro πe ne pre ko Pre mi um kar ti ce bi lje æi se 1 na grad na

mi lja, od no sno za sva kih 5 ku na po tro πe nih pre ko

Stan dard kar ti ce

n 2500 mi lja do bro do πli ce − za no ve osnov ne Pre-

mi um ko ri sni ke i 1250 mi lja do bro do πli ce za no ve

do dat ne Pre mi um ko ri sni ke

n 1500 mi lja do bro do πli ce za no ve osnov ne Stan dard

ko ri sni ke i 750 mi lja do bro do πli ce za no ve do dat ne

Stan dard ko ri sni ke

n Dvo s tru ke na grad ne mi lje − za po tro πnju u po slov-

ni ca ma Cro a tia Air li ne sa i PBZ Card Travel American

Expressa

n UËla nje nje u Pri o rity Pa ss bez nak na de te pri stup

u vi πe od 450 VIP sa lo na u zraË nim lu ka ma

Ra zre di Ëlan s tva i po god no sti

Ko ri πte njem uslu ga par tne ra u Miles & More pro gra-

mu pri kup lja te na grad ne mi lje ko je za mje nju je te za

na gra de i sta tu sne mi lje ko je odre u ju vaπ Ëlan ski

sta tus, na temelju kojeg ostvarujete po god no sti.

Sta tu sne mi lje pri kup lja ju se re do vi tim le to vi ma.

Sva ka ta ko os tva re na mi lja bi lje æi se i kao sta tu sna

i kao na grad na mi lja.

Uz 35.000 sta tu snih mi lja pri kup lje nih u jed noj ka len-

dar skoj go di ni, ste Êi Êe te sta tus Fre qu ent Tra vel ler,

a za 100.000 sta tu snih mi lja u ka len dar skoj go di ni

oËe ku je vas sta tus Se na tor. »la no vi ko ji pri ku pe

naj ma nje 600.000 HON Cir cle mi lja u ra zdob lju od

dvi je uza stop ne ka len dar ske go di ne, stje Ëu sta tus

HON Cir cle.

n Col lect award mi les ever ywhe re − sim ply pay

with yo ur Di ners Club Card in any of 12 mil li on DC

of fi ces in Cro a tia or abro ad

n Col lect ex tra award mi les − by using ot her Di ners

Club be ne fi ts, such as free onli ne ser vi ces, in ter net

ban king and e-pa ying, standing or ders etc.

n 2 cre dit car ds − 1 Mi les & Mo re mem ber ship

ac co unt − use yo ur pri va te and bu si ne ss card to col-

lect award mi les on the sa me mem ber ship ac co unt.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card!

Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA

Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business

and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile

for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards

whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via compan-

ion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be

credited to your account.

Ap ply for yo ur Cro a tia Air li nes American Express

cre dit card!

n 4 HRK = 1 award mi le − for every 4 HRK spent

via Pre mi um card, you col lect 1 award mi le, and

for every 5 HRK spent via Stan dard card you col-

lect 1 mi le.

n 2.500 wel co me mi les − for new ba sic Pre mi um

card users and 1.250 wel co me mi les for new ad di-

ti o nal Premi um card users.

n 1.500 wel co me mi les − for new ba sic Stan dard

card users and 750 wel co me mi les for new ad di ti-

o nal Stan dard card users.

n Earn do u ble award mi les − using the card to pay

for tra vels at Cro a tia Air li nes sa les of fi ces and PBZ

Card Travel American Expressa.

n Free Pri o rity Pa ss enrol lment- it ena bles you to

ac ce ss in to mo re than 450 VIP air port lo un ges.

Ti ers and be ne fi ts

By using the Mi les & Mo re par tners’ ser vi ces mem-

bers col lect award mi les, which are tra ded in for

awar ds; and sta tus mi les, which de ter mi ne a mem-

ber’s mem ber ship sta tus and pri vi le ges.

Sta tus mi les can be ac cru ed on sc he du led fl ig hts.

Every mi le ac cru ed is re cor ded as both a sta tus

and an award mi le.

With 35,000 sta tus mi les col lec ted in one ca len dar

ye ar mem bers earn the Fre qu ent Tra vel ler sta tus,

with 100,000 sta tus mi les the Se na tor sta tus, and

mem bers who col lect at le a st 600,000 HON Cir cle

mi les wit hin two con se cu ti ve ca len dar ye ars, earn

the HON Cir cle sta tus.

FF_milje.indd 173 9/12/14 5:30 PM

174 CROATIA AIRLINES

Po god no sti sta tu sa Fre qu ent Tra vel ler

- Exe cu ti ve Bo nus − 25 po sto više mi lja

- ne o gra ni Ëe na va lja no st na grad nih mi lja za tra ja nja

sta tu sa

- pred no st na li sti Ëe ka nja

- pri ja va za let (check in) na πal te ru po slov nog ra zre da

- 40 kg prtlja ge bez na pla te, ovisno o odredištu i

zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

Ako je rijeË o komadnom prijevozu prtljage, 2 komada

u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a 3 u prvom

razredu putovanja

Po god no sti sta tu sa Se na tor

- Exe cu ti ve Bo nus − 25 po sto više mi lja

- ne o gra ni Ëe na va lja no st na grad nih mi lja za tra ja-

nja sta tu sa

- pre du jam od 50.000 mi lja

- upo ra ba Luf than sa Se na tor Lo un ge te Star Gold

Lo un ge par tne ra u Star Al li an ceu

- vi πi pri o ri tet na li sti Ëe ka nja

- pri ja va za let (check in) na πal te ru prvog ra zre da

- osi gu ra no mje sto na le tu za re zer va ci je do 48 sa ti u

najvišoj ekonomskoj i najvišoj poslovnoj klasi

- do dat nih 20 kg ili do dat ni ko mad prtlja ge bez na-

pla te, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

- komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonom-

skom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu

- dva e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja

(upgrade), te dva vauËera prilikom svake obnove

statusa.

- Senator Premium Award

Po god no sti sta tu sa HON Cir cle

- sve po god no sti sta tu sa Se na tor

- Exe cu ti ve Bo nus od 25 po sto

- pre du jam od 100.000 mi lja

- Sta tus Se na tor za su pru æni ka ili par tne ra, ovisno

o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

- šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putova-

nja (upgrade) te šest prilikom zadržavanja statusa

- do dat ne po god no sti ko je nu de par tne ri pro gra ma

osi gu ra va ju Êi je din s tve no isku s tvo pu to va nja

- komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonom-

skom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu

Tro πi te mi lje

Pri kup lje ne na grad ne mi lje za mje nju je te za mnoge

na gra de: nagradne kar te, pre mje πtaj u vi πi ra zred pu to -

va nja (up gra de), ra zli Ëite nagrade ko ji ma se mo æe te

ko ri stiti pri pu to va nju (ho tel ski smje πtaj, unaj mlji va-

nje vo zi la).

Više informacija možete pronaÊi na:

www.miles-and-more.com

Fre qu ent Tra vel ler pri vi le ges

- Exe cu ti ve Bo nus of 25 per cent more miles

- Ac cru ed award mi les ha ve no ex piry da te

- Wa i ting li st pri o rity

- Check-in at the Luf than sa Bu si ne ss Cla ss co un ter

- Free bag ga ge al lo wan ce of 40 kg depending on

the destination and the airline

If piece concept is applicable 2 bags in total

(Economy or Business) and 3 bags in the First

Class

Se na tor pri vi le ges

- Exe cu ti ve Bo nus of 25 per cent more miles

- Ac cru ed award mi les ha ve no ex piry da te

- 50,000 mi les in advan ce

- Ac ce ss to the Luf than sa Se na tor Lo un ge as well as

to the Star Gold Lo un ges of Star Al li an ce par tners

- High wa i ting li st pri o rity

- Fir st Cla ss check-in

- Bo o king gu a ran tee up to 48 ho urs before depar-

ture in the highest booking class in Business and

Economy class

- Ad di ti o nal 20 kg bag ga ge al lo wan ce or an ad -

di ti o nal bag depending on the destination and the

airline

- Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and

4 in the First Class

- 2 e- Upgrade Vouchers and two e-vouchers each

time the status is renewed.

- Senator Premium Award

HON Cir cle pri vi le ges

- All exi sting Se na tor pri vi le ges

- Exe cu ti ve bo nus of 25 per cent

- 100,000 mi les in advan ce

- Se na tor sta tus for yo ur spo u se or par tner depend-

ing on the airline

- 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers and 6 every time the status

is renewed

- Ad di ti o nal be ne fi ts of fe red by Mi les & Mo re par-

tners, ro un ding off the tra vel ex pe ri en ce

- Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and

4 in the First Class

Spend mi les

You can ex chan ge col lec ted award mi les for awar ds

pre pa red for you: award tic kets, up gra des, va ri o us

tra vel awar ds.

Please fi nd detailed info at:

www.miles-and-more.com

FF_milje.indd 174 9/12/14 5:30 PM

CROATIA AIRLINES 175

THE MOST LOVED CROATIAN BEER

Ask your flight attendant for a cold Ožujsko

FF_milje.indd 175 9/12/14 5:30 PM

176 CROATIA AIRLINES

CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS

It is worth reminding ourselves that, since the fi rst commercial fl ight which took place on 5 May 1991 between Zagreb and Split to date, the company’s aircraft has accumu-lated approximately 469,000 fl ights having transported a total of nearly 29,000,000 pas-sengers. Of these, 20 million were transported on international fl ights, and about 9 million on fl ights within Croatia.

CROATIA AIRLINES SLAVI RO–ENDANOve godine naπa nacionalna zrakoplovna kompanija slavi 25. obljetnicu osnutka. U povodu obiljeæavanja 25 godina Croatia Airlinesa, 7. kolovoza 2014., na letu OU416 iz Zagreba u Frankfurt nagradili smo petoro putnika. Pet najsretnijih na letu, koji su izvukli

muffi n s naljepnicom Lucky winner, dobitnici su nagrade - dvije karte za neko od odredišta Croatia Airlinesa po izboru. Na kraju su se nagraeni putnici mogli fotografi rati s posadom i u cockpitu.U znak zahvale putnicima za dosadaπnje povje-renje, Croatia Airlines u povodu 25. roendana organizira joπ i niz drugih nagradnih aktivnosti − nagradne natjeËaje, izloæbu i mnoga druga dogaanja. Viπe informacija o dogaanjima moæete pronaÊi na www.croatiaairlines.hr.

CROATIA AIRLINES’ BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION This year, Croatia Airlines is celebrating its 25th birthday.To mark the 25th anniversary of Croatia Airlines, on 7 August 2014, fi ve passengers were rewarded on fl ight OU416 from Zagreb to Frankfurt. The fi ve luckiest passengers on the fl ight drew muffi ns with a Lucky Winner label, each winning two tickets to a Croatia Airlines destination of their choice. In the end, the winning passengers could also take pictures with the crew in the cockpit. In gratitude to our travellers’ trust, Croatia Airlines is organising a series of activitiesto reward our consumers − competitions,

PREVEZLI SMO MILIJUNTOG PUTNIKA U 2014. GODINIDana 28. srpnja 2014. zabiljeæili smo naπega milijuntog putnika u ovoj godini. Ovogodiπnja je jubilarna putnica Jelena NinËeviÊ, a zabiljeæena je na letu OU475 iz Pariza u Split. Ovogodiπnji milijunti putnik Croatia Airlinesa zabiljeæen je otprilike u isto vrijeme kao i lani, a dosadaπnji prometni uËinci u 2014. godini takoer se kreÊu na lanjskoj razini. Sretnoj putnici darovali smo dvije besplatne povratne zrakoplovne karte po izboru za jed-no od naπih odrediπta, a poklon-bon darovala joj je ZraËna luka Split.Podsjetimo, od prvog komercijalnog leta, koji je obavljen 5. svibnja 1991. izmeu Zagreba i Splita, do danas, zrakoplovi tvrtke obavili su oko 469.000 letova i ukupno prevezli gotovo 29,000.000 putnika. Od toga je oko 20 mili-juna prevezeno na meunarodnim letovima, a oko 9 milijuna na letovima unutar Hrvatske.

MILLIONTH PASSENGER IN 2014 TRANSPORTED On 28 July 2014, we recorded Croatia Air-lines’ millionth passenger this year − Jelena NinËeviÊ fl ying from Paris to Split on fl ight OU475.This year’s millionth passenger fl ying with Croatia Airlines was recorded around the same time as last year and the current traffi c results in 2014 are also at last year’s level. The lucky traveller was rewarded with two return tickets to one of our destinations of her choice and a gift certifi cate sponsored by Split Airport.

FF_milje.indd 176 9/12/14 5:30 PM

CROATIA AIRLINES 177

exhibitions and many other events. More information about the events is available at www.croatiaairlines.hr.

NOVI TERMINAL 2 U ZRA»NOJ LUCI LONDON HEATHROWNovi Terminal 2, dom Star Alliancea u zraËnoj luci Heathrow, otvorio je svoja vrata za dobrodoπlicu prvim putnicima, Ëime je poËelo novo iskustvo putovanja za 12 milijuna putnika Star Alliancea, koji na godiπnjoj razini prolaze kroz vodeÊu zraËnu luku Ujedinjenog Kraljevstva.Sve Ëlanice Star Alliancea, koje posluju na Heathrowu, preselit Êe se u novi terminal i tako Êe prvi put biti pri-sutne na istome mjestu u jednoj zraËnoj luci. Croatia Airlines preselit Êe u novi terminal 15. listopada ove godine.Kad se svi avioprijevoznici smjeste u ovom objektu, moguÊnosti prikljuËnih letova za transferna putovanja bit Êe jednostavnije nego ikad prije u Heathrowu. OËekuje se da Êe veliko Ëvoriπte Star Alliancea u Heat-hrowu biti katalizator rasta globalnoga putniËkog pro-meta prema Londonu i poveÊati privlaËnost Heathrowa kao meunarodne transferne zraËne luke.

NEW TERMINAL 2 AT LONDON’S HEATHROW AIRPORTThe new Terminal 2, the home of Star Alliance at Heathrow Airport, has opened its doors to welcome its fi rst passengers. 12 million Star Alliance passengers, which is how many pass through the largest airport in the United Kingdom annually, will now be given a new experience of travelling. All the members of Star Alliance operating at Heath-row will be moving to the new Terminal, making them all be present at the same place in an airport. Being a Star Alliance member, Croatia Airlines is moving to the new Terminal on 15 October this year. When all the airline companies settle at Terminal 2, catching connecting fl ights will be easier than ever before at Heathrow Airport. It is expected that this Star Alliance hub at Heathrow will be a catalyst for growth in international passenger traffi c to London and increase the attractiveness of Heathrow as an international transfer airport.

FF_milje.indd 177 9/12/14 5:30 PM

178 CROATIA AIRLINES

U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI!

Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija za-daÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pis-menih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima.Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobro- doπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih

za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom

putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let iza-

brali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije.

Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne

πto ugodnije.

UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

RED SJEDENJA

Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Na-puπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

RU»NA PRTLJAGA

Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike ekonom-skog razreda: 1 komadn maksimalna teæina 8 kg n zbroj dimenzija do 115 cm (55x40x20) Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike poslovnog razreda: 2 komadan maksimalna teæina 8 kg po komadu n zbroj dimenzija maksimalno 115 cm (55x40x20) ili 57x54x15cm (etui za odijela) Radi ograniËenog spremiπnog prostora u putniËkoj kabini te kada je veÊa popunjenost zrakoplova, i dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga bit Êe Ëekirana i spremljena u prtljaæni prostor.

UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST

Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja.Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

ELEKTRONIČKI URE�AJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI

Upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja dopuπtena je iskljuËivo u zrakoplovnom radu, teæe i veÊe ureaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obveznog vezivanja.Popis dopuπtenih elektroniËkih naprava:

n Mobilni/Smart telefoni n Tablet raËunala

n Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke n Digitalni audio/MP3 ureaj n ElektroniËke igre n e-ËitaË n Prijenosna/Notebook raËunala n Prijenosni DVD/CD ureaj n Bluetooth ureaji n Kamere n Medicinski ureaji n ElektriËni brijaÊi aparat

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI

Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog ma-terijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA

U naπim zrakoplovima posluæujemo hranu i napitke bez naplate.U poslovnom razredu na svim letovima usluga ukljuËuje birana hrvatska jela, alkoholna i be-zalkoholna piÊa te izbor domaÊega i stranog tiska.U ekonomskom razredu usluga ovisi o vrsti i duljini leta. Na domaÊim letovima posluæuje se samo voda, a na meunarodnim letovima usluga se sastoji od snacka i ponude piÊa. Na veoma kratkim letovima putnicima nudimo samo vodu, a na duljim letovima u ponudi su alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te topli napitci.IskljuËivo u poslovnom razredu moæete na-ruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed (vegeta-rijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed).Putnicima nije dopuπteno konzumiranje vlasti-tih alkoholnih piÊa. Alkoholiziranim putnicima ne posluæuju se alkoholna piÊa.Puπenje je zabranjeno tijekom boravka u zrakoplovu. Toaleti su opremljeni detektorima dima. ■

Faze leta u kojima je dopuštena upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja Faze leta Mobilni/ Prijenosno Sluπalice za Funkcija Smart telefoni, raËunalo suzbijanje buke teksta/razgovora Tablet

Ukrcavanje DA DA DA DA

Kaπnjenje u polasku DA DA DA DA

Taxiranje za polijetanje DA NE DA* NE

Polijetanje DA NE DA* NE

Tijekom leta DA DA DA NE

Spuπtanje DA NE DA* NE

Slijetanje DA NE DA* NE

Taksiranje DA NE DA* DA *U navedenim fazama nije dopuπteno rabiti sluπalice prikljuËene na audio/MP3 ureaje

U zrakoplovu.indd 178 9/12/14 5:34 PM

CROATIA AIRLINES 179

n e-Readers n Laptop/Notebook computers n Portable DVD/CD player n Bluetooth devices n Personal cameras n Assistive medical devices n Electric shaver

RESTRICTED ITEMS

The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, fl ammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, fi rearms, compressed gases, corrosive pro-ducts and oxidizers.

IN-FLIGHT SERVICES

We serve food and beverages free of charge in our aircraft. In business class on all fl ights the services include a choice of Croatian foods, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as a choice of domestic and foreign print media. Our services in economy class depend on the type and length of the fl ight. On domestic fl ights we serve only water, and on international fl ights our services include snacks and an offer of beverages.On very short fl ights our passengers are of-fered only water, and on longer fl ights they are offered alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as well as hot drinks. In business class only you can order a special meal when purchas-ing your tickets, however, this must be done at least 24 hours ahead (vegetarian, Muslim, diet, but kosher meals must be ordered 48 hours ahead).Passengers are not allowed to consume their own alcoholic beverages. Passengers that are considered under the infl uence of alcohol are not served alcoholic beverages. smoking is forbidden in the aircraft. The toilets are equipped with smoke detectors. ■

predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and land-ing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole fl ight.Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the fl ight.

PERSONAL ELECTRONIC DEVICES

Electronic devices may only be used if they are in fl ight mode. Bulky personal electronic devices must be securely stowed whenever the seat belt sign is turned on.List of approved personal electronic devices:

n Mobile/Smart phones n Tablet computers n Noise-cancelling headphones n Digital audio/MP3 player n Electronic games

ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT

DEAR PASSENGERS!

Your satisfaction is our fi rst and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services.Each one of your suggestions is most wel-come, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Infl ight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Please read the instructions below,

important for your safety and comfort

during the fl ight. We are happy that you

have chosen Croatia Airlines for your

fl ight and shall do our best to make it as

pleasant as possible.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking fl ights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT

Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the fl ight, please return to it before each landing.

HAND BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE

Economy Class passengers: 1 piecen max. weight 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) Business Class passengers: 2 piecesn max. weight per piece 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) or 57x54x15cm if it is a foldable garment bag Due to a limited storage space and when a fl ight is fully booked even approved carry-on baggage will be checked-in and stowed in cargo compartments.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the fl ight attendant’s

Use of electronic devices during different fl ight phases

Flight phase Hand Held PEDs Larger PEDs Noise- Text and (i.e. smart phones (i.e. Laptops cancelling phone and tablets) and notebooks) Headphones functions

Boarding YES YES YES YES

Extended Ground Delay YES YES YES YES

Taxi-out for Take-off YES NO YES* NO

Take-off YES NO YES* NO

Cruise YES YES YES NO

Descent YES NO YES* NO

Landing YES NO YES* NO

Taxi to Stand YES NO YES* YES *During critical phases of fl ight headphones must not be plugged to audio/MP3 players.

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180 CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES 181

One of the most modern turbo-prop short rangeaircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer.Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business toeconomy class seating depends on actual booking.

Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskihzrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje.Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razredarazlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplovasrednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga iekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga dodrugog leta.

One of the most modern midrangeaircraft in the world. Flexible cabinlayout, the ratio of business to economyclass seating depends on actual booking.

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplovasrednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga iekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga dodrugog leta.

Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 iDash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu.

Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Airbus A319-100

34,1 / 111

33,84 / 111

70 000

11 900 / 39 000

122,40 / 1318

834 (450 KTS)

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

4

Dash8 - Q400

28,42 / 93,24

32,83 / 107,71

29 257

7620 / 25 000

63,08 / 679

667 (360 KTS)

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

6

Airbus 320-200

Airbus 319-100

Dash 8-Q400

Airbus A320-200

34,1 / 111

37,6 / 123

73 500

11 920 / 39 100

122,40 / 1318

834 (450 KTS)

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

2

Broj sjedala / Number of seats 144 76 174

FLOTA FLEET

Flota.indd 181 9/12/14 5:35 PM

182 CROATIA AIRLINES

Poslovni projektori Epson

Nitko ne prodaje više projektora od Epsona. Zbog čega? Zbog jarkog svjetla. Za mjerenje snage projektora koristimo metodu Color Light Output (CLO) umjesto mjerenja samo bijelog svjetla. Visoka CLO vrijednost znači da su sve boje jarke. Do tri puta jarkije u odnosu na DLP projektore s jednim čipom*. Slijedeći puta kada ćete nabavljati poslovni projektor provjerite njegovu CLO vrijednost i odaberite onaj koji daje doista jarku, lijepu sliku.

Više informacija na www.epson.hr/CLO

*Podatak “slijepog” testiranja naspram pet vodećih konkurentskih DLP modela s jednim čipom. Za više informacija o testiranju, CLO mjerenju te o 3x jarkijim bojama, kliknite na www.epson.hr/CLO

NAJSVJETLIJE BOJE - PREMAMIŠLJENJU 98% ISPITANIKA*

Flota.indd 182 9/12/14 5:35 PM

CROATIA AIRLINES 183

•

Palermo

Catania

Bari

RIJEKAGenoa

Turin

Chisinau

St. Petersburg

LYON OSIJEK

TEL AVIV

ATHENS

Madrid

Edinburg

Aberdeen

Dublin

Belfast

BRA»

BELGRADE

Bucharest

Manchester

VENICE

USA

NEW YORKWASHINGTON

PORTO

BARCELONA

VILNIUS

GDANSK

POZNAN

STAVANGER

BERGEN

Kassel

Podgorica

Tirana

DUSSELDORF

Amman

Damascus

Jerusalem

Beirut

TRONDHEIM

Brussels Airlines

United Airlines

Alitalia

ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

Partneri / Partners:

linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama in cooperation with partner airline

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184 CROATIA AIRLINES

Zemljovid.indd 184 9/16/14 6:30 AM

CROATIA AIRLINES 185

TAKSI

3

1

4 4Gates 11-21Izlazi 11-21International Arrivals & Departures

Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

Check-in “B”Registracija putnika “B”

Accessible topassengers only/Samo za putnike

Accessiblefor all/Dostupnoposjetiteljima

Check-in “A”Registracija putnika “A”

P

C

DD

PC

S

B

B

5

A

S

N

Parking Area/Parkiraliπte

Domestic Arrivals & DeparturesDomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

Gates 1-7Izlazi 1-7

BUS

2

1

2

3

Business Class Lounge ZrinjevacProstorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

V.I.P. Salon, Conference RoomSalon za konferencije

Diners Club Business Class LoungeProstorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

4 Restaurant Faust VranËi Ê

CROATIA AIRLINESTicket Counter and Welcome ServiceProdaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

C

N NewstandNovinarnica

Customs ControlCarinska kontrola

P

D Duty Free ShopBescarinska trgovina

Passport ControlKontrola putovnica

S ShopsProdavaonice

B Bank, Exchange OfficeBanka, mjenjaËnica

Restaurant, Self-Service RestaurantRestauracija, samoposluæivaonica

Coffee BarKavana

Bar

Post Office, Telephone, FaxHPT (poπta, telefon, faks)

BaggagePrtljaga

Flight InformationInformacije o letovima

Tourist InformationTuristiËke informacije

Rent-a-Car OfficesNajam automobila

Panoramic ViewPanoramski pogled

A

5

ii

i

i

ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB ZAGREB AIRPORT

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba

Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and

Charges

In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 75 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the fl ight, and in ZADAR 75 minutes before the fl ight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing.

Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) − Zagreb (zraËna luka) − Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) − Rijeka − Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) − Zagreb Airport − Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport − Rijeka − Departure at 15.30.

5.00 5.30 6.00 6.30 7.00 7.30 8.00 8.30 9.00 10.00 10.30 11.00 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

ZAGREB − Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolo- dvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb:Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb:

ZAGREB − Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor):Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb):

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information:

Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119,Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094www.plesoprijevoz.hr

Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas.Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova.Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic fl ights and two hours prior for international fl ights.

7.00 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.30 10.30 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00

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186 CROATIA AIRLINES

ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI? WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

Kse

nija

©ko

riÊ

Irma

Pod

oreπ

ki

Dragi putnici! Zahvaljujemo na lijepim fotografi jama koje nam redovito πaljete s vaπih putovanja. Svako godiπnje doba ima svoje prednosti, a neka vam najljepπe boje jeseni budu inspiracija za prekrasne fotografi je. ©aljite nam svoje fotografi je uz jednu reËenicu u kojoj objaπnjavate zaπto volite putovati i sudjelujte u naπem nagradnom natjeËaju. Pobjednika Êemo nagraditi s dvije povratne aviokarte po izboru za neko od odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa, dok Êe dva dobitnika primiti poklon-pakete.Fotografi ju autorice Snjeæane BionËina odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovome broju te je nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promidæbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Kseniju ©koriÊ i Irmu Podoreπki.I dalje vas pozivamo da nam πaljete vaπe fotografi je s neobiËnih i zanimljivih mjesta s putovanja, jer i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vas vrijedne nagrade. Posjetite naπu web stranicu www.croatiaairlines.hr (Ponude/Nagradne igre i natjeËaji), pogledajte uvjete nagradnog natjeËaja i sudjelujte!

Dear passengers!

Thank you for the wonderful photographs you have been sending us from your travels. Each season has its advantages, so we hope that the amazing colours of autumn will inspire you to take breath-taking photographs. Send us your photographs accompanied by a sentence in which you explain why you like travelling and take part in the photograph contest. We will award the fi rst prize winner with two return tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of your choice, while the second and third place winners will receive promotional packages.We have selected Snjeæana BionËina as the author of the best photograph in this issue; she is the winner of two Croatia Airlines return air tickets. Ksenija ©koriÊ and Irma Podoreπki have won our promotional pack-ages.We would like to invite you to continue sending us your photographs from unusual and interesting places you have visited during your trav-els because valuable rewards await you in the next issue, too. Visit our webpage www.croatiaairlines.hr (Offers/Contests and competitions), check the conditions, and take part in the contest!

Snj

eæan

a B

ionË

ina

Æivot je kratak, a na putovanjima otkrivam sebe.Life is short and when travelling I get to discover myself.

PutujuÊi otkrivam ljepotu skrivenih detalja.While travelling, I get to discover the beauty of hidden details.

Putovati volim zato πto mogu vidjeti koliko malo za sreÊu treba.I like travelling because I can see just how little one needs to be happy.

Volim putovati.indd 186 9/12/14 5:36 PM

CROATIA AIRLINES 187

DubrovnikCard Special tourist discount card

Available at all Tourist Information Offi ces, Cultural Institutions, Hotels & Travel Agencies

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions and 24 h public transport rides

No charge for children up to 12 years old

DailyCardONLY 150,00 kn

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions and 10 public transport rides

No charge for children up to 12 years old

3-dayCardONLY 200,00 kn

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions and 20 public transport rides

No charge for children up to 12 years old

WeeklyCardONLY 250,00 kn

Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin DræiÊ, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, DulËiÊ-Masle-Pulitika Gallery and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops...

www.dubrovnikcard.com

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180 CROATIA AIRLINES

ADRESE ADDRESSES

Direkcija / Head offi ceBani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb,Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66Fax (+385-1) 6160 153

E-mail adrese / E-mail addressesPresident’s Offi ce/uprava@croatiaairlines.hrPublic Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hrMarketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hrCustomer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hrSales/sales@croatiaairlines.hrCargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr

Kontakt centar / Contact Center072-500 505 samo za pozive iz HrvatskeTel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 18:00sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 15:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr

Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept.Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52

Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team

072 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske

Brojevi telefonskog check-ina /Telephone check-in

Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71Pula 052-53 01 05Split 021-20 31 83Zagreb 01-456 21 05

PutniËka prodaja / Passengers salesFax (+385-1) 61-60-270BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb

Informacije o prijevozu robe /Cargo information offi ce

Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575

Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays LtdTel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38

Poslovnice / Town and airport offi cesIdentifi kacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/Identifi cation code for offi ces in Croatia is:

HR-B-01-080037012Amsterdam

Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80Bruxelles

1930 Zaventem/Brussels AirportBox 31Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132Fax (+32-2) 753-5130bruap@croatiaairlines.hr

Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, DubrovnikZraËna luka/Airport DubrovnikTel. (+385-20) 773-232Fax (+385-20) 772-240dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr

Frankfurt60 313 FrankfurtSchillerstrasse 42-44,Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51frato@croatiaairlines.hr

LondonConcorde North Wing,Gatwick AirportRoom 332, West Sussex RH6 0DWTel. (+44-20) 8563-0022, Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615Airport Heathrow, Terminal 1, Zone HHounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZTel. (+44-20) 8745-4683Fax (+44-20) 8754-7377lonto@croatiaairlines.hr

München85 356 München Flughafen/AirportVerwaltungsgebäude Nord Ebene 4. Büro 4.1319 Tel. (+49-89) 975-92-730Fax (+49-89) 975-92-736mucap@croatiaairlines.hr

Paris 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Roissypôle Le Dôme, Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France

Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-40-00Fax (+33-1) 48-16-55-11parto@croatiaairlines.hr

PulaZraËna luka/Airport PulaValtursko polje 210, 52 100 Ližnjan Tel. (+385-52) 218-909, 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998puyap@croatiaairlines.hr

Rijeka 51 000 RijekaJelaËiÊev trg br. 5Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757Fax (+385-51) 335-931rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr

Rim / Roma00054 FiumicinoAeroporto/Airport Leonardo da VinciTorre Uffi ci 2, room 518Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021Fax (+39-06) 5923-792romto@croatiaairlines.hr

Sarajevo71 000 SarajevoZraËna luka/AirportTel. (+387-33) 789-600Fax (+387-33) 789-602sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr

Skopje1000 SkopjeZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 3296-967, 3296-969Fax (+389-2) 2520-921skpap@croatiaairlines.hr

Split21 000 SplitZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298Fax (+385-21) 203-125spuap@croatiaairlines.hr

Zadar23 000 ZadarZraËna luka/AirportTel. (+385-23) 250-101Fax (+385-23) 250-109zadap@croatiaairlines.hr

Zagreb 10 000 ZagrebTrg Nikole Š, Zrinskog 17Tel. (+385-1) 481--96-33Fax (+385-1) 481-96-32posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hrMeunarodna zraËna luka Zagreb/Zagreb International AirportTel. (+385-1) 61-64-581Fax (+385-1) 62-65-930

Zürich Hardstrasse 2, 8004 ZürichTel. (+41-44) 2610-840Fax (+41-44) 2610-883zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr

Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents

Europa / Europe»eπkaCK Blue Sky Travel

Opletalova 57, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. +420 222 222 235Fax +420 222 220 237czech@croatiaairlines.hr

GrËka / GreeceIntermodal Air

25, Filellinon Str., 105 57 AthensTel. +30 210 32 17 679, 32 17 750Fax +30 210 32 49 152greece@croatiaairlines.hr

KosovoAirtour Bill Clinton 32, 10031 Prishtina

Tel. +381 38 233 833Fax +381 38 245 845kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr

Airtour Prishtina International Airport Tel. +381 38 594 111Fax +381 38 594 222kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr

Portugal ATR - Actividades Turisticas e Representações

Av. D. João II, Lt. 1.16.1 - 8º Andar, 1990-083 LisboaTel. +351 21 761 89 80Fax +351 21 425 24 12croatiaairlines@atr.co.pt

SlovaËka CK Blue Sky Travel

Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel./fax +421 2 5262 2375slovakia@croatiaairlines.hr

Španjolska / SpainGlobal Representacion Turistica / GRT

c/Valencia, 266, 4, 1, 08007 BarcelonaTel. +34 934 875 775Fax +34 934 880 121spain@croatiaairlines.hr

Turska ZENITH Services

Ordu Caddesi, No. 12/1, Laleli Fatih34134 IstanbulTel. +90 212 513 2667, gsm +90 533 738 8470Fax +90 212 512 4234turkey@croatiaairlines.hr

ZENITH ServicesIstanbul Ataturk AirportTel. +90 212 465 5023Fax +90 212 465 4092turkey@croatiaairlines.hr

Bliski istok IzraelBiaf Aviation Services Ltd

1 Ben Yehuda Street, Migdalor blgd. 12th fl oor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. +972 3 516 7181, 516 7140Fax +972 3 516 7174israel@croatiaairlines.hr

Australija / AustraliaSky Air Services

7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205,Tel. +61 3 9699-9355, Fax +61 3 9699-9388lidia@skyair.biz

Novi Zeland / New ZealandCTtravel Limited NZ

PO Box 104-056, Lincoln North,Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Rd. Henderson, Auckland, NZTel. +64 9 837 9897Fax +64 9 837 9898croatiaairlines@cttravel.co.nz

JapanAir System Inc.

Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo,105-0001 JapanTel. +81 3 3593 6740Fax +81 3 3593 6534asipaxtyo@airsystem.jp

Koreja / KoreaBohram Air Services

7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, KoreaTel: +82 2 754 6336Fax: +82 2 779 8795customersupport@croatiaairlines.co.kr

Tajvan, Kina, Hong Kong / Taiwan, China, Hong KongPacifi c Express Company Limited

8F, No 137, Nanking E. Road Sec. 2, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C.Tel: +886 2 2515 2371Fax: +886 2 2515 3463pcpnexpr@ms23.hinet.net

Adrese.indd 180 9/12/14 5:37 PM

tel.+385 49 326 600kaj@bluesunhotels.comwww.hotelkaj.hrwww.facebook.com/HotelKaj

Coordinates: 16.11907, 46.00427

High-end quality accommodation and culinary experience: boutique hotel concept (luxury rooms, exclusive hotel restaurants, internationally renowned chef, wine cellar, wellness & spa, conference facilities...)

Marija Bistricafamous Marian Shrine for pilgrimsCroatian Chateau Experience: Ethno Homesteads & Old Craft WorkshopsAttractions (medieval castles from the Habsburg era, Neandertalland excavation site and a museum)Wine roads, meadow biking

Hidden oasis of beauty in the heartland of Croatia...

bluesun hotel kaj, Marija Bistrica

Korice2_4.indd 3Korice2_4.indd 3 9/12/14 2:50 PM9/12/14 2:50 PM

Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5*

www.valamar.com

Elegant luxury for the ultimate

Dubrovnik holiday

Korice2_4.indd 4Korice2_4.indd 4 9/12/14 2:51 PM9/12/14 2:51 PM