inst’tight™ - lucas meyer cosmetics · 2020. 7. 22. · innovative eco-extraction process by...
TRANSCRIPT
Inst’Tight™
ECO-DESIGNEDFLASH SKIN PERFECTOR
FLASH BEAUTY TREND
COMPLEMENT TO ANTI-AGING
Combined with an anti-aging active ingredient with a biological mechanism of action, the instant action is not claimed but enables consumers to feel the product is more efficient.
FILTER-LIKE TREND
Lifting effect
Inst’Tight™
Instant Tightener+
Immediate action
=
• Depending on their molecular structures (branching, length, molecular weight,…), polysaccharides have different
properties
• Some have the capacity to form a resistant and continuous 3D network at the surface of the skin which provides mechanic tensions for:
-Immediate skin tightening effect
-Smoother skin
➔ polysaccharides are widely used in cosmetic products for their immediate lifting action. They can be extracted from several sources: botanical/plants/algae/fermentation
POLYSACCHARIDES, STRONG INSTANT TIGHTENERS
Polysaccharides are one of the best sources to develop a tensing ingredient
HONEY LOCUST
Plant ID
NAME ORIGIN: Derived from the sweet taste of the pulp,
BOTANICAL NAME: Gleditsia triacanthos L.
FAMILY: Fabaceae (pea)
ORIGIN: native to North America, then naturalized in EasternEurope (ornemental tree)
FLOWERS: The greenish small flowers are arranged in grape-like
FRUITS: 15-20 cm (6-8 inch) flat pods get mature during early fall (September-October)
USES: -The pod pulp was used as food by the native American people -The pod pulp is fermented to produce alcoholic or non-alcoholic beverage.
-Roasted mature seeds are used as a coffee substitute
-Various parts of the tree were used for various medicinal properties historically used by Native American culture: antiseptic, treatment of indigestion or fever, blood purifier, etc
HONEY LOCUST SEEDS, NEW SOURCE OF POLYSACCHARIDES
• Honey locust fruit pods mature in early fall and contains several
seeds rich in polysaccharides which:
-act as a reserve of energy to enable them to germinate
-retain water to prevent the complete drying of seeds
• Mainly galactomannans: high molecular weight polysaccharide consisting primarily of D-mannose straight-chain
polymer branched with D-galactose sugars.
Depending on mannose/galactose ratio, tightening properties of galactomannans vary
ECO-EXTRACTION CHART
Based on the Green Chemistry chart, the 6 principles of
the Eco-Extraction chart has been published in 2012 to:
• promote a reduction of the environmental impact of
extraction processes
• guide and encourage the design of products and
processes that consume minimal amounts of materials
and energy while producing little to no waste material
Standard polysaccharide extraction process
Grinded whole seeds
Aqueous extraction (app. 8h)
Filtration
Purification step(ethanol)
Filtration
Drying
Resolubilisation in water
Stabilization of galatomannanswith glycerin
Innovative Inst’Tight™process
Grinded seed outer layers
Aqueous extraction (app. 5h)
Filtration
Stabilization of galactomannanswith glycerin
INNOVATIVE ECO-EXTRACTION PROCESS BY LMC
2X LESS
WATER,40% TIME
SAVED
REDUCED
OPERATION
STEPS
Internal part
Honey locust seeds
Compost
Outer layer
(rich in galactomannans)
INNOVATIVE SEED ECO-EXTRACTION PROCESS BY LMC
Inst’Tight™ is eco-designed!
Inst’Tight™ polysaccharide extraction
process is aligned with the 6 principles of
the Eco-Extraction chart
INST’TIGHT™
Naturalness
• Honey locust seed extract
• Renewable seeds
• Chemical solvent free extraction process
• Preservative free
• 99.7% natural origin (ISO 16128)
• Vegan compliant
Sourcing
• Full traceability
• Responsibly sourced in Hungary and Bulgaria
• Hand collected on the ground
Environmental
Footprint
• Process aligned with the 6 principles of green extraction
• Compared to standard polysaccharides extraction:-2X less water used -40% time saved-4 fewer steps
• Zero waste (by products from process recycled for compost)
• No GMO/CMR
• Eco-friendly: biodegradable and no water toxicity (in progress)
NaturalSustainable innovation/
Green chemistryResponsiblesourcing
Eco-Designed Flash Skin Perfector
Product sustainability
MECHANISM OF ACTION
After water evaporation,
polysaccharides form a tightening
3D biopolymeric network
Application of Inst’Tight™
Mechanical tension
The skin is instantly mechanically
smoothed
IN VITRO TEST
Evaluation of the tightening properties (GlasboxPLUS®)
In vitro protocol• GlasboxPLUS® model uses a collagen matrix to mimic skin structure• 2% Inst’Tight™ aqueous solution was added in the medium• Evaluation of the contractile forces induced by the polymerisation of the collagen
after 30 minutes and at different times for 24 hours
Inst’Tight™ provides strong tightening properties
EVALUATION OF THE TIGHTENING PROPERTIES
UP TO
+26% AT 1H
+14%
Beams (sensors)
Wells where the collagen matrix developsin contact with water
GlasboxPLUS®
CLINICAL STUDIES
Evaluation of the sustained lifting action on 3 different zones
Ingredients Active formula (%)
Deionized Water 96.00
Gelling agent 0.50
Inst’Tight™ 2.00
pH adjuster 0.50
Preservatives 1.00
Evaluation of instant lifting action on crow’s feet wrinkles (vs. T0 for the gel & vs. a placebo for the emulsion)Tested formulas
2
1
Crow’s feet wrinkles(vs. placebo)
Forehead lines(vs. T0)
Frown lines(vs. T0)
Self-assesment3
Ingredients Active formula (%) Placebo (%)
Deionized Water 96.54 98.23
Gelling agent 0.50 0.50
Inst’Tight™ 2.00 0.00
Glycerin 0.00 0.30
Caprylyl Glycol 0.00 <0.01
Preservatives 0.96 0.96
Tested formula
Ingredients Active formula (%) Placebo (%)
Deionized Water 75.57 77.56
Emulsifier 6.00 6.00
Gelling agent 0.30 0.30
Oil phase 15.00 15.00
Inst’Tight™ 2.00 0.00
pH adjuster 0.05 0.05
Preservatives 0.08 0.09
In vivo protocol• 10 women (48 to 62 years old)• Single application of a 2% Inst’Tight™ gel on the eye contour area• Wrinkle analysis at T0, T5min and T1h by skin profilometry (Primos 3D)
Inst’Tight™ instantly smoothes the crow’s feet wrinkles whithin 1h
EVALUATION OF INSTANT LIFTING ACTION1
EVALUATION OF INSTANT LIFTING ACTION
Vol#3 - 62 years old (Primos pictures)
T0 5 min 1h
1
In vivo protocol• 10 women (51 to 61 years old)• Single application of a 2% Inst’Tight™ cream or placebo on the eye contour area• Wrinkle analysis at T0, T15min and T1h by skin profilometry (Primos 3D)
Inst’Tight™ instantly smoothes the crow’s feet wrinkles whithin 1h
EVALUATION OF INSTANT LIFTING ACTION1
UP TO
-55%
UP TO
-34%
UP TO
-19%
EVALUATION OF INSTANT LIFTING ACTION
Vol#2 - 53 years old (digital pictures)
T0 15 min 1h
1
EVALUATION OF INSTANT LIFTING ACTION1
Vol#8 - 51 years old (digital pictures)
T0 15 min 1h
In vivo protocol• 20 women (45 to 65 years old)• Single application of a 2% Inst’Tight™ gel on the eye contour area versus a placebo• Wrinkle analysis at T0, T3min, T1h, T2h, T4h, T6h and T8h by skin profilometry (Bio3D Structured-light Scanner)
Inst’Tight™ instantly smoothes the crow’s feet wrinkles from 3 minutes,with a long lasting effect up to 8h
EVALUATION OF SUSTAINED LIFTING ACTION - CROW’S FEET WRINKLES
UP TO
-51% UP TO
-37%
UP TO
-11%
2
Vol#1 - 61 years old
T0 3 min 1 h
EVALUATION OF SUSTAINED LIFTING ACTION - CROW’S FEET WRINKLES2
Vol#14 - 64 years old
T0 3 min
EVALUATION OF SUSTAINED LIFTING ACTION - CROW’S FEET WRINKLES2
EVALUATION OF SUSTAINED LIFTING ACTION - FOREHEAD LINES
In vivo protocol• 20 women (45 to 65 years old)• Single application of a 2% Inst’Tight™ gel on the forehead area• Line analysis at T0, T3min, T1h, T2h, T4h, T6h and T8h by skin profilometry (Bio3D Structured-light Scanner)
Inst’Tight™ instantly smoothes the forehead lines from 3 minutes,with a long lasting effect up to 8h
UP TO
-74% UP TO
-72%
UP TO
-17%
2
EVALUATION OF SUSTAINED LIFTING ACTION - FOREHEAD LINES
Vol#1 - 61 years old
T0 3 min
2
EVALUATION OF SUSTAINED LIFTING ACTION - FOREHEAD LINES
T0 3 min 1h
Vol#18 - 55 years old
2
In vivo protocol• 20 women (45 to 65 years old)• Single application of a 2% Inst’Tight™ gel on the frown area• Line analysis at T0, T3min, T1h, T2h, T4h and T6h by skin profilometry (Bio3D Structured-light Scanner)
UP TO
-54%
EVALUATION OF SUSTAINED LIFTING ACTION - FROWN LINES
Inst’Tight™ instantly smoothes the frown lines from 3 minutes,with a long lasting effect up to 6h
UP TO
-24%
UP TO
-14%
2
EVALUATION OF SUSTAINED LIFTING ACTION - FROWN LINES
Vol#1 - 61 years old
T0 3 min
2
CONSUMER TEST
In vivo protocol• 20 women (45 to 65 years old)• Single application of a 2% Inst’Tight™ gel on the crow’s feet area, foreahead lines and frown lines• Self-assessment (2-3 hours after application)
The action of Inst’Tight™ has been approved by consumers
3
Inst’Tight™Eco-designed flash skin perfector
NATURAL AND
SUSTAINABLE EXTRACT• Honey locust seed extract concentrated
in polysaccharides (galactomannans)
• Process aligned with the 6 principles of
the Eco-extraction chart
INSTANT ANTI-WRINKLE &
SKIN SMOOTHING ACTION• 3 areas tested: crow’s feet wrinkles,
forehead lines & frown lines
• ↓ wrinkle depth, surface and length
• Results in 3 minutes and up to 8 hours
MECHANICAL TIGHTENING
EFFECT• Forms a 3D biopolymeric network at the skin
surface
• Mechanically stretches and tightens the skin
immediately
MANUFACTURER BENEFITS• Helps satisfy consumers in search of
fast visible results
• Proven efficacy in a gel and an emulsion
• Aligned with the flash beauty trend
• Aligned with natural and sustainable
strategy
• Full traceability
CONSUMER BENEFITS • Instantly minimizes the appearance of
wrinkles and fine lines
• Smoothes the skin as a real-life
Instagram® filter
• Long-lasting action all day long
INCI NAME Water (and) Glycerin (and) Gleditsia Triacanthos Seed Extract
ADDITIVE Caprylyl Glycol
APPEARANCE Yellow to brown aqueous transparent gel
FORMULATION Should be incorporated at the end of the formulation at a temperature below 40oC
DOSAGE Moderate action / Filter-like action: 1%Optimal action / Anti-wrinkle action: 2%
OPTIMUM PH 3.0 - 10.0
APPLICATIONS • Anti-aging skin care• Anti-wrinkle skin care• Eye and lip contour care• Face and body firming products • Décolleté lifting care• Men’s care
PRODUCT INFORMATION
35
To feel beautiful every day
Applications• Anti-aging skin care• Anti-wrinkle skin care• Eye and lip contour care
Dosage• Moderate action / Filter-like action: 1%• Optimal action / Anti-wrinkle action: 2%
To look your best
• Face and body firming products • Décolleté lifting care• Men’s care
≠NOFILTER To perfect natural beauty
APPLICATION - CLAIMS
INSTANT FLAWLESS
INST’TIGHT™TASMAN PEPPER™ AF
INSTANT BEAUTYFIER
INST’TIGHT™ HYDROSELLA™
LIP CONTOUR
INST’TIGHT™ SWT-7™H/L
INSTANT GLOW
INST’TIGHT™ MATIPURE™ OIL FREE
DÉCOLLETÉ LIFT
INST’TIGHT™ ADIPOFILL’IN™
STOP AGING
INST’TIGHT™ IBR-DORMIN®
EYE CONTOUR
INST’TIGHT™ ALDAVINE™
ACTIVE COMPLEX
Excellent safety profile
TOXICOLOGICAL STUDIES
• Eye Irritation (Neutral Red Release method) 50% Inst’Tight™ tested
• Skin irritation (Episkin™ model - OECD 439) 100% Inst’Tight™ tested
• Assessment of acute oral toxicity (OECD 129) 100% Inst’Tight™ tested
• Sensitization (h-CLAT & Sens-IS & & KeratinoSens™) 100% Inst’Tight™ tested
• Mutangenicity (AMES - OECD 471) 100% Inst’Tight™ tested
• Phototoxicity - UV spectrum 10% and 25% Inst’Tight™ tested
THANK YOU