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INSTITUTE OF CURRENT WORLD AFFAIRS

JLS-6: DAUGHTERS OF THE GURUNG

August 2, 1974Dear Mr. Nolte,

The Gurung live in scattered agricultural villages on thesouthern slope of the snowy Annapurna range, high above the malarialterai of southern Nepal and the arid Gangetic plains of northernIndia. One of perhaps 36 ethnic groupings of Nepal, they are of com-paratively recent Tibetan origin (likely no longer than lO00 yearsago) and speak a dialect of the Tibeto-Burman family. The Gurungcomprise twenty exogamous clans within two largely endogamous sub-castes, one Hindu, one Buddhist. onogamy is general, but polyandry(both fraternal and avuncular) and polygyny carry no stigma. As inthe days before Indian independence, Gurung men who are able join thefamous British army regiment of Gurkhas, visiting their homes fbronly brief periods. And so women predominate in the villages of theGurung.

It is a day’s bus ride from Kathmandu west to Pokara andthree days’ trek from there to Ghandrung, Landrung, Euldi and Chomro,the Gurung villages where these snapshots were recently taken. Theyare tendered in hopes that they may revive in the viewer that per-fectly natural obsession that can with luck be the lot of us all andthat in the present author was brought to light fifteen years agowith the first of many readings of a masterpiece by Nabokovo

Regards,

Jeffrey Steingarten is an Institute Fellow exploring the relevance oflaw and psychology. This newsletter arises from a recent recreationalhike in the mountains of Nepal.

popping popcorn

When Gurung girls reach nine or ten years, they cus-tomarily enter a society of their peers, relieve their mothersof some household chores, and exchange their dresses for thecostume of women--a close-fitting blouse of rough gray cottonor red or black velvet with openings on each side that are laterused for nursing, a skirt of printed, imported cloth wrappedaround their haunches and reaching to the ankles, a very longbelt in a single color encircling many times their littlewaists, and a triangle of black velvet covering their seatwith the two points tied in front. They tend to the domesticanimals and their younger brothers and sisters, collect waterat the village well, hull and grind the rice and millet, de-louse their mothers. Otherwise they keep to themselves, butthey are ready always to becharm unwary travelers.

Later that evening we hear the tinkle of braceletsand the rustle of cotton as five or six girls visit thehouse of a friend, to whisper together in a dark corner of thekitchen. When they are fifteen, they will go in a group tothe campfire where the young men wait for them and sit mostof the night together. But now it is different.

9oon the soft speech and laughter give way to thesound of one voice and then two in an improvised song,and there is singing until I am asleep.

"Now I wish to introduce the follow-ing idea. Between the age limits ofnine and fourteen there occur maidenswho, to certain bewitched travelers,twice or many times older than they,reveal their true nature which isnot human, but nymph+/-c (that is, de-moniac); and these chosen creaturesI propose to designate as ’nymphets.’

"It will be marked that I substitutetime terms for spatial ones. Infact, I would have the reader see’nine’ and ’fourteen’ as the boundar-ies--the mirrory beaches and rosyrocks--of an enchanted island hauntedby those nymphets of mine and sur-rounded by a vast, misty sea. Be-tween those age limits, are all girl-children nymphets? Of course not.Otherwise, we who are in the know,we lone voyagers, we nympholepts,would have long gone insane."

--Lolita

In midLafternoon after a difficult seven hours’ walk,we cross the Nodi River halfway between the Gurung villages ofLandrung and Ghandrung and find a flat campsite on the terracedhillside just beyond. In a half-hour our tents are pitched,water is boiling for tea, and I stretch out for a nap on asquare of canvas. When I open my eyes, two Gurung girls .perhapsten and twelve years old are watching me from the edge of theterrace. They smile and join their palms in front of theirfaces with the word ’Namaste.’

Out of a rhododendron grove come two more girls, onewith a large basket hung behind her from a strap over her fore-head, her body pitched slightly forward and her hands crossedin back of her head to relieve the weight. They walk surely onthe rocky terrain, keeping their upper bodies almost immobileand hardly lifting their bare feet from the ground. They siton their heels next to their friends and array their skirts be-tween their brown thighs in a quick gesture. None of them takesher eyes from me except when they huddle to discuss the signifi-cance of semething I’ve done--dab alcohol on my sore feet, purifywater through a charcoal filter, locate film for my camera.

I try to explain and they find my attempts ridiculous,but they politely hide their laughter behind their hands orthe cotton head-cloth that falls over their bare shoulders.It is no use calling over our guide to translate because hespeaks only Nepali and his native Sherpa language and a littleEnglish, and the girls speak only Gurungkura. Eyes and gesturesare all we have.

One of them slips away and returns awhile later witha large plate of hot popcorn. She sits nearer to me thanher companions, her two legs bent in front of her with oneknee up and the other resting on its side on the ground, feettogether. As I snap their pictures, one is bashful but theothers look past the lens with a directness that makes meuneasy.

It is getting dark and the mists inch up from the Nodigorge. A mother calls to her daughter and the others getready to follow. The girl with the basket--in it is a copperjug of water that must weigh thirty pounds--squats down in frontof it, passes the strap over her forehead, leans forward ontoher knees with her legs still crossed, and pushes up with oneleg as she straightens the other behind it. She smiles andgoes toward a house several terraces away up the slope. Thewater slaps against the jug with thee rhythm of her walk.

Gurung shepherdess

"Narriage and cohabitation before the age of puberty are stillnot uncommon in certain East Indian provinces After allDante fell madly in love with his Beatrice when she was ninea sparkling girleen, painted and lovely and bejeweled im acrimson frock and this was in 1274 in Florence at a privatefeast im the merry month of ay. And when Petrarch fell madlyin love with his Laureen she was a fair-haired nymphet oftwelve running in the wind, in the pollen and dust a flowerin flight in the beautiful plain as descried from the hillsof Vaucluse."

"You have to be an artist and a madman, a creature of infinitemelancholy...in order to discern at once, by ineffable signs--the slightly feline outline of a cheekbone, the slenderness ofa downy limb, and other indices which despair and shame andtears of tenderness forbid me to tabulate--the little deadlydemon among the wholesome children; she stands unrecognized bythem and unconscious herself of her fantastic power."

--Lolita

Received in New York August 5, 1974

Science would be superfluous if there wereno difference between the appearance ofthings and their essence.

Karl arx, Das KapitlBook III, vol. IIi

It is only shallow people who do not judgeby appearances. The mystery of the worldis the visible, not the invisible.

Oscar Wilde, in a letter

And whether a man dispassionatelySees to the core of lifeOr passionatelySees the surface,The core and the surfaceAre essentially the same,Words making them seem different0nly to express appearance.If name be needed, wonder names them both

Lao-tse