integrating draping

7/30/2019 Integrating Draping

1/31

BF

9 x 12

240pp

hardcover, spiral binding978-1-56367-486-0

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Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing


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CONT

ENTS

|vi i

Extended Contents ....................................................ix

Preface............................................................................xi

Chapter 1

Tools and Supplies .........................................1

Chapter 2

Skirts .........................................................................21

Chapter 3

Bodice ......................................................................55

Chapter 4

Bodice Variations..........................................79

Chapter 5

Necklines and Collars ...........................107

Chapter 6

Sleeves ...................................................................133

Chapter 7

Dresses ..................................................................165

Chapter 8

Drawing ..............................................................189

Appendix............................................................221

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Contents


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Preface............................................................................xi

Chapter 1

Tools and Supplies

Draping: Muslin......................................................2

Tools and Supplies...........................................2Comparing the Dress Form to

the Drawn Form............................................4

Drafting: Muslin to Paper Pattern ....................6

Tools and Supplies...........................................6

Drafting: Paper Pattern to Sloper......................7

Tools and Supplies...........................................7

Terms and Definitions...........................................8

Draping ...................................................................10

Taping the Dress Form ................................14

Pattern Symbol Legend ......................................16Drawing ..................................................................17

Tools and Supplies ........................................17

Drawing the Flat Figure.....................................18

Fashion Figure versus Flat Figure...................19

Chapter 2

SkirtsDraping the Skirt .................................................22

Trueing the Skirt Muslin: Waistline ...............28

Making the Skirt Sloper.....................................32

Drafting the Skirt from Measurements.........34

Drawing Skirt Flats .............................................38

Skirt Variations .....................................................39

Straight Skirt...................................................39

Flare Skirt ........................................................42

Six-Gore Skirt.................................................45

Pleated Skirt ....................................................48

Dirndl Skirt .....................................................50

Drawing Structured Drape ...............................52

Chapter 3

BodiceDraping the Bodice..............................................56

Trueing the Bodice Muslin................................62

Making the Bodice Sloper.................................66

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements .....68Drafting the Neckline and Armholes......72

Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders .....73

Completed Bodice Draft .............................74

Shaping the Bodice .......................................75

Drawing Options .................................................76

Chapter 4

Bodice VariationsBodice Variations .................................................80

Shoulder and Waist Dart Combination ...80

Princess Seam.....................................................82

Armhole Princess Seam ..................................86

Front Waist Dart and Back Neck Dart ....90

Drawing Bodice Variations...........................93

Side and Waist Darts.......................................94

Shoulder Yoke with Tucks

and Gathered Waist ......................................96

Gathered Neck with Yoke..........................100

Dartless Back Shoulder................................103

Drawing Bodice Details .............................104

Chapter 5

Necklines and CollarsNecklines ..................................................108

Jewel Neck ..........................................108

V-Neck ................................................110

Scoop Neck .........................................112

Square Neck........................................114

Bateau Neck ........................................116

EXTEN

DED

CONTENTS

|i x


Extended Contents


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|

Collars.......................................................118

Peter Pan Collar ..................................118

Pilgrim Collar......................................120

Mock Shawl ........................................122

Convertible Collar...............................124

Two-Piece Shirt Collar.........................126

Band Collar .........................................128

Drawing Necklines and Collars................130

Chapter 6

Sleeves

Draping the Sleeve ....................................134Stuffed Arm.........................................134

Marking the Muslin ...........................140

Drafting the Straight Sleeve ......................144

Draft from Measurements ..................145

Draft the Cap ......................................146

Drafting the Fitted Sleeve .........................148

Draft....................................................148

Sleeves ......................................................150

Leg-o-Mutton......................................150

Slim-Fitted Bell ....................................152

Blouse..................................................154

Full Bell ...............................................156

Puff .....................................................158

Turn-Up Cuff .....................................160

Drawing Sleeves .......................................162

Chapter 7

DressesDress Foundation Sloper...........................166

Draping the Dress Foundation Sloper.......168

Dresses ......................................................170

Shift Dress ...........................................170

Princess Dress......................................174

Sheath Dress........................................178

Tent Dress............................................180

Drawing Dresses .......................................184

Design Variety...........................................186

Chapter 8

DrawingDonald Brooks: Costume

and Fashion Designer .............................190

Collars and Cuffs......................................192

Five Stages for a Garment: Collar.............194

Sleeves.......................................................196

Five Stages for a Garment: Sleeve .............198

Pleating .....................................................200

Five Stages for a Garment: Bodice............202

Five Stages for a Garment: Skirt ..............204

Five Stages for a Garment:Bodice Variations ...................................206

Five Stages for a Garment: Dress .............208

Back Drape ..............................................210

Dresses ......................................................212

Sketching Options.....................................214

Flat Figure and Fashion Figure .................216

Drawing Soft Drape..................................218

Appendix

Dress Form Measurement Chart ..............222Standard Sportswear and

Streetwear Dress Form ...........................223

Croquis Templates ....................................224IntegratingDraping,

Drafting,andD

rawing

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|x i

dress as the model used throughout the text to

demonstrate how draping, drafting, and drawing

are integrated in design development. The com-

ponents are the skirt, bodice, neckline, collar,

sleeve, and dress foundation. These disciplines

are similarly integrated in the design of mens and

childrens wear.

Each chapter builds on the last. After an

introduction to tools and preparation techniques

in Chapter 1, Chapters 2, 3, and 6 begin with

draping as the first step in producing a sloper.

Drafting the sloper is then offered as an alterna-

tive method. Chapters 4, 5, and 7, focusing

respectively on bodice variations, necklines and

collars, and dresses, begin with drafting because,

for many of the design variations, these chapters

utilize slopers developed in the previous chapters.

In the case of a design variation such as the leg-o-

mutton sleeve, for example, drafting the pattern

is more efficient than draping it.

All design starts with an idea, which needs to

be translated into a sketch. Drawing basics are

interwoven throughout the book, with an empha-

sis on understanding body lines in relation to the

dress form and proportion. It is directed towardcommunicating specific garment detail in the con-

text of related projects. Lessons ground the cre-

ative process and strike a balance between the

technical and visual elements. Drawing informs

draping and drafting, just as these disciplines

inform drawing. Step-by-step instructions on

This book is about a dialog between an artistand a technician. It illustrates the design process,

encompassing sketch and garment pattern devel-

opment. It depicts the relationship among three

disciplines of fashion design: draping, drafting,

and drawing. The integration is presented in a

highly visual format.

These disciplines, particularly draping and

drafting, are often taught in separate classes.

Their relationship is integral to efficient and time-

saving methods of developing a design and its

pattern. Our aim is to create bridges between

studio methods and design illustration. Each

chapter renders a combination of skills and the

natural flow among them. Two-dimensionaldesign informs the three-dimensional and vice

versa.

Chapters are presented as hands-on learning

experiences with lessons that mimic classroom

demonstrations. Step-by-step photography por-

trays the draping process in a sculptural way

rather than using illustrations, which cannot truly

depict the response of fabric draped on a dress

form. The images of muslin sculpture com-

bined with digital drafts offer interchangeablesolutions for pattern development.

Throughout the book, there are alternative

methods used by practicing designers for devel-

oping slopers. These are master patterns, created

by draping or drafting and used to generate style

variations. We chose the basic components of the


Preface

PREFA

CE


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Acknowledgments

We would like to thank Tim Maggio for his pho-

tography, technical drawings, and graphics. Thank

you to Fred Gross for his word crafting

of drawing text and support. To Wolf Form

Company, thanks for their assistance. We are

grateful to Bill Rancitelli for his drawings, as well

as to Jerry Blum and Kay Blick for a glimpse

into Donald Brooks portfolio. Many thanks to

Fairchild Books editors Olga Kontzias, Sylvia

Weber, Jessica Rozler, and Beth Cohen and the

multi-talented Fairchild team for helping us tobring this project together. To the reviewers select-

ed by the publisher, we express our appreciation of

their recommendations. They are Melanie Carrico,

Kent State University; Andy Chan, Massachusetts

College of Art; Kathy Mullet, Oregon State

University; Artis Rewerts, University of Texas

Austin; Susan L. Stark, San Francisco State

University; and Sandra Tonz, Mt. Mary College.

Wed also like to thank our students, whose

enthusiasm and creativity continue to kindle ourpassion for fashion.

drawing the fashion figure as well as flats are

included in each chapter. Drawings correspond to

patterns and convey countless ideas for design

diversification and inspiration.

In 2003, Kathleen Maggio curated the exhibit

Donald Brooks: Designer for all Seasons. She

became acquainted with Mr. Brooks and his

work while he served as a visiting designer critic

to the fashion design department of Parsons

School of Design. This twentieth century design-

er is renowned for his accomplishments in cos-

tume design as well as on Seventh Avenue. Theauthors found that dresses from the exhibition

collection served as the ideal inspiration for this

book. Even using the basic garment components

taught in this book, Mr. Brooks designs exude

timelessness in their execution and fabrication.

Chapter 8 is devoted to drawing exercises

focused on rendering his designs and their fine

design details. It also depicts the relationship that

exists among draping, drafting, and drawing

exemplified in the images of garments fromChapters 2 through 7.

|IntegratingDraping,

Drafting,andD

rawing

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With experience gained from producing theskirt sloper, you can now develop the bodice

pattern. Draping the bodice involves balanc-

ing the front and back muslin, distributing

and controlling fullness by forming darts,

and fitting the neckline and armhole. The

muslin drape is trued and transferred to

paper, and a sloper is created. Detailed

instructions depict taking measurements

and drafting a flat pattern for the bodice

as another option. Drawing the bodycontours is a critical factor in visually

communicating the fit and form of

the bodice. Studies of body lines,

proportion, pose, flats, and specs

are included in this chapter.

3

ECIDO

B


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Drafting,andD

rawing

56565656

Draping the Bodice

Tape the Dress Form

Bust

Center front and center back Princess lines

Side seam

Base of the neckline

Shoulder seam

Shoulder blade level

(4 down from neckline at CB)

Armhole ridge

Note: Do not cover seam lines

with tape. Pin along side them.

Prepare the Muslin

1 Front length: Measure from the

dress form neckband to the

waist at CF plus 2

2 Front width: Measure from the

CF at bust level to the side

seam plus 212

Mark the Muslin

1 Measure 1 in from the length-

wise torn edge. Draw in CF

line

2 Measure from the neckband to

the bust level. Square a line

across the muslin.

3 Measure from the CF to the

side seam across bust level.

Add 12 for ease. Cross mark

for the side seam on the bust

line.

Drape

1 Align the muslin length

and cross grain line

with the tape on the

dress form. Pin the

muslin at the CF neck-

line, 3 above and

below the bust tape and

waist. Pin the cross

grain line at the bust

point at princess line.

2 Distribute 12 ease

across the bust line and

pin cross mark at the

side seam.

Bust

Level

Width

Center

Front

Length

Side

Seam

21


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|57575757

Drape the Neckline

1 Pin at the intersection of the

center front seam and neckline

of the dress form.

2 To release the muslin for fitting,

cut a 2 2 square off the corner.

3 Pin and slash down the seam

allowance (perpendicular to the

neckline) toward pin.

4 Continue pinning and slashing

along neckline to the shoulderseam. The muslin should lie

smoothly across the chest and

shoulder, with no stretching or

pulling at neckline. 18 ease

should be included.

Form the Shoulder Dart

5 Smooth the muslin from the

shoulder neck point to the

princess line or midpoint on the

shoulder and pin.

6 Smooth the excess muslin from

the bust line pinned at the side

seam up over the shoulder

towards the princess line and

pin.

7 Fold the excess muslin to form

a dart. Pin the fullness at the

shoulder.

8 Pin the side seam starting at the

arm plate down to the waist.

9 Pin out the fullness from the

shoulder down towards the bust

point.

Shoulder

Dart Neckline

CenterFront

BustLevel

WaistlineSide

Seam

7 98

1 2

4


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Drafting,andD

rawing

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Draping the Bodice

Form the Waist Dart

1 From the side seam at waist,

pin along the waist toward theprincess line. Slash the muslin

towards the pins. Allow for14 ease along waist.

2 Smooth and pin from the center

front waist towards the princess

line.

3 Fold the excess muslin to form a

dart. Pin the fullness at the waist

and pin the dart towards the

bust point.

Mark the Draped Muslin

4 With a pencil, dot along the bottom of the twill

tape along the waist and side seam.

5 Cross mark on either side of the dart at the waist

and the intersection of the side seam at the waist

and arm plate. Cross mark at the end of the

shoulder, on each side of the shoulder dart and at

the shoulder neck point.

6 Dot along the shoulder and neckline.

7 Fold the excess muslin to the front, clearing the

shoulder and side seam for the back drape.

Bust Point

CenterFront

Waistline

Armhole

SideSeam

Waist Dart

1 3

5 6 7


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BODIC

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|59595959

Prepare the Back Muslin

Back length: Measure from the dress form neckband to the

waist at Center Back plus 2.

Back width: Measure from the CB at bust level to the side seam

plus 3.

Mark the Muslin

1 Measure 1 in from the lengthwise torn edge. Draw in the

Center Back line.

2 Measure from the neckband to the bust level tape. Square a

line across the muslin.

3 Measure from the CB to the side seam across the tape. Add

1 for ease. Cross mark for the side seam on the bust line.

4 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape.

Mark and square a line for the shoulder blade level.

5 Measure across the shoulder blade level to the arm plate and

cross mark.

Drape the Back

1 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape.

Pin the muslin at the CB neck, shoulder blade, bust line, and

waist. Pin the cross grain line, distributing the ease along the

tape. Pin across the shoulder blade level, distributing 14 easeto the cross mark at the armhole ridge.

2 Pin along the back neckline of the dress form, slashing down

the seam allowance toward the pins. Secure at the shoulder

seam.

Back Muslin

Torn Edge

Shoulder

Blade

Level

Bust Line

Level

Center

Back Line

Shoulder

Blade

Cross

Mark

Cross

Mark

for Side

Seam at

Bust Line

Tape


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Drafting,andD

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Draping the Bodice

Form the Shoulder Dart

1 Smooth the muslin from the shoulder

neck point to the princess line on the

shoulder and pin. Muslin should lay

flat across the chest and shoulder

with no stretching or pulling at the

neckline.

2 Smooth the excess muslin from the

shoulder blade line at armhole up

over the shoulder towards the

princess line and pin.

3Pinch up the excess muslin to form asmall dart along the princess line.

4 Measure 3 down from the shoulder

and mark the vanishing point of the

dart with a pin.

Form the Waist Dart

5 From the side seam at the waist, pin

along the waist toward the princess

line. Slash the muslin towards the pins.

Allow for 14 ease along the waist.

6 Smooth and pin from the center back

waist toward the princess line.

7 Pinch up the excess muslin to form

a dart. Pin the fullness at the waist

and pin the dart along the princess

line to 1

above the bust level line.

Mark the Draped Muslin

8 Dot along the bottom of the twill

tape along the waist and side seam.9 Cross mark on either side of the

dart at the waist and the intersec-

tion of the side seam at the waist

and arm plate. Cross mark at the

end of the shoulder, on each side

of the shoulder dart and at the

shoulder neck point.

10 Dot along the shoulder and neck-

line.

1 2

3 4

8 9 10


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|616161

Join the Front and Back Bodice

1 Fold the leg of the dart closest to the centers

toward the sides and pin them closed. Pin the

front over the back at the side seam matching

the grain line and cross marks. Pin twill tape

around the bodice waistline.

2 Join and pin the front and back shoulders

together with the excess muslin turned out.

Trim, leaving 1 seam allowance.

3 Fold the front shoulder and pin over the back,

matching the shoulder darts.

4 The shoulder length for a size 8 should be 5.

The darts should be centered on the shoulder

seam.

5 Match the shoulder cross marks and dot around

the armhole ridge.

6 Dot along the lower half of the arm plate.

7 Blend the front and back waistline by markingalong tape.

1 2

6 7

3a 3b

4 5


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Drafting,andD

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626262

Trueing the Bodice Muslin

1 Remove the muslin from the dress form, keeping

the side seams pinned together. Unpin the shoul-

der seam.

2 With the darts still pinned closed, measure the

front and back waists. They should each include14 ease. Adjust if necessary.

Sketching the Upper Torso

Bust Line

3 Square a line from the center line 1 to begin

trueing the waistline.

4 Use a hip curve ruler to continue drawing the

waistline along the dots.

5 Unpin and open the dart. Draw in the dart legs

with a straight ruler. For a sloper, the front dart

points may end at the bust level line. Measure

across the bust line. The front and back should

each include at least 1

2 ease.

1

2

3

4

5


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BODIC

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|636363

6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1.

Mapping Out

Darts on

the Torso

Center

Front

Princess Seams

7 Use a curve ruler to draw in the armhole.

It should reflect the curve of the arm plate.

8 The back armhole will need to be drawn with

the curve in two parts since its 1 longer than

the front.

9 Draw the side seams.

10 Pin the shoulder darts closed and draw the

shoulder seam. The back shoulder seams may be

slightly curved from the princess line to the neck.

Use the curve to draw that in.

7

6

8

9

10


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Drafting,andD

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646464

Trueing the Bodice Muslin

11 Remove the pins at the mouth of the darts. Slip folded carbon

paper inside the dart and run a tracing wheel across the seam

to obtain the jog of the dart.

12 Neckline Pin the shoulders together. Lower the neckline 14 at

the center front and widen the neck 18 at the shoulder seam.

Use an L-square for the first 14 of the neckline in the front and12 in the back.

13 Draw the new neckline with a curve that reflects the curve of

the originally marked neck.

14 Complete the drape by trimming the seam allowance to 12 at

the armhole and neckline. A 1 seam should be allowed for the

side seam, shoulder, waist, and centers.

11

12

13a

13b

14


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BODIC

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|656565

15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin back together to check the fit on the form. Mark a notch at the

screw level on the armholes and a second notch 14 below the notch for the back.

Drawing Flats

Steps for drawing a flat free-hand

without a flat figure reference.

1 Neckline

2 Shoulder and

then Armhole

3 Creating

Matching

Side Seams

4 Planning

Hemline Width

5 Starting

Shoulder Darts

6 Finishing

Waistline Darts

Drawing a flat figure as a guide or reference to establish the correct

proportion and fit of a garment.

Flat Figure Sketch on

Another Page

Tracing Paper or Semi-

Translucent Marker Paper

Sketching Onlythe Garment as it

Would Fit

Flat of Your

Garment

without theFigure

A Proportions

B Sewing Lines

C Fit

D FInished FlatA B C

D


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Drafting,andD

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666666

Making the Bodice Sloper

Muslin to Paper Pattern

1 Mark any additional corrections on the muslin pattern, remove

the pins and press flat.

2 Draw length and cross grain lines on the pattern paper. Place the

muslin on the paper, matching grain lines. Use pattern weights

or push pins to hold the muslin in place.

3 Transfer pattern lines onto the paper using a tracing wheel with

a serrated edge. Working on a soft surface such as cork is ideal.

Guide the wheel with a ruler for smooth transfer of lines.

4 Allow 1 for the side seam, shoulder, and center seam

allowances. The neckline, armhole, and waist have 12

allowance. Extend all seam lines into the seam allowances.

Paper Pattern to Sloper

1 Cut oaktag twice the size of the

pattern. Fold it in half and press

a sharp, flat folded edge. Draw

a cross grain line using an L-

square. Fold the center seam

allowance of the paper pattern

under and align with the fold

and the cross grain.

2 Transfer all pattern lines to the

oaktag using a needle pointtracing wheel.


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BODIC

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|676767

3 Draw seam and dart lines with a pencil, using

straight and curve rulers. Mark length grainlines parallel to the center lines.

4 Cut straight lines with a blade. Use scissors or

pattern shears to cut curved lines. Seam

allowances are not necessary on slopers.

5 Notch the dart legs, armholes and cross grain

line at side seam.

6 Punch a hole at the apex of the darts.

7 Complete the sloper by punching a large hole

and hanging it on a pattern hook.

Drawing Darts for

This Bodice

Flat of

This Bodice

Fit Construction Detail


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Drafting,andD

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1 Center front

length (base of

neck to waist)

2 Bust circumference (fullest

part at bust level). Pin tape

parallel to the floor

3 Front neck to

bust level

4 12 bust

circumference

CF to CB

A

B

CDE

G

M

H

I

KN L

L1

JJ1

F

FrontBack

+

+

+

+

+ + +

+ +

+

O

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Q+

+

+

5/8

1

A

B

CDE

G

M

H

I

KN L

L1

JJ1

F

FrontBack

+

+

+

+

+ + +

+ +

+

O

P

Q+

+

+

T

R

S

S1

+

+

Y

W

X

W1

U

V+

+

+

3/4

1 1

1 1

1 1

3/8

A

B

CDE

G

M

H

I

KN L

L1

JJ1

F

FrontBack

+

+

+

+

+ + +

+ +

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P

Q+

+

+

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S1

+

+

Y

W

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W1

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V+

+

+

+

+

Z1

Z2

Z3

Z4+

+__

_

+

11/4

1/4

1/2 7/8

approx. 1

approx. 1

armplate

screw

A

B

CDE

G

M

H

I

KN L

L1

JJ1

F

FrontBack

+

+

+

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+ + +

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V+

+

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Z1

Z2

Z3

Z4+

+__

_

+

+1

Accurate measurements are required to draft a bodice sloper. Carefully measure the dress form or human fig-

ure and record these illustrated measurements. The following pages provide step-by-step drafting instructions.

Measuring the Dress Form

Drafting the Bodice from Measurements


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BODIC

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|696969

5 Side seam

(waist to 1

below armplate)

6 Back neck

to bust level

7 Center back

length (base of

neck to waist)

8 Back

shoulder, neck

to waist

9 Across back

shoulder

(armhole toarmhole)

10 Back waist

to shoulder

(1 from CB

waist to end of

shoulder)

11 Back

shoulder (base

of neck to end

of shoulder)

12 Front

shoulder neck

to waist

13 Across

front chest

14 Front

waist to

shoulder

15 Front

shoulder length

16 Bust point to bust point 17 Waist

circumference

18 Across back


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Drafting,andD

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A

B

CDE

G

M

H

I

K

N L

L1

JJ1

F

FrontBack

+

+

+

+

+ + +

+ +

+

O

P

Q+

+

+

5/8

1

70

1 A toB = Center Front Length - Extend a straight

line 2 in from the right side of a 24 24 sheet

of pattern paper2 A to C = the distance from the base of the Neck

to the Bust level

3 C toD =12 theBust Circumference plus 114

ease

4 D toE= 12 CD minus 14

5 EtoF= Side Seam guideline (bust level to waist)

6 Fto G = Side Seam (waist to 1 below arm-

plate). Extend the guideline to the top of the

paper

7 G toH= Square a line to the Center Back

from G. Extend the line 2 14 toward the front

8 D toI=Bustlevel to theBack Neck

9 Ito J= Center Back Length

10 JtoK= Waistto the Shoulder Neck Point-

Square a line across to the side seam guideline

11 KtoL = 12 ofAcross Shouldermeasurement

plus 1 for dart & ease

12 Square a guideline fromL down toH-G.

MarkL1 where they intersect

13 Square a guideline from JtowardFfor the back

waist14 Square a guideline fromB toFfor the front waist

15 Jto J1 = 1

16 J1 toM= Set the ruler at J1 - measure the

Back Waistto Shoulderlength to the point

where it intersects with lineL-L117 MtoN= Set the ruler atM- measure the

Shoulderlength plus 1 for dart/ease to the

point where it intersects with lineK-L

18 B to O = the Center Front Waistto Shoulder

Neckpoint. Square a guideline across to the

side seam guideline

19 Draw a parallel guideline 58 to the right of the

side seam line from the top towards line G-H

20 B toP= Center Front Waistto Shoulder

at armhole. Place the ruler at B, mark where

it intersects the 58 guideline

21 Pto Q =Front Shoulderlength plus 2 for the

dart

Drafting

DiagramSteps 1 21



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|717171

22 C toR = 12 theBust PointtoBust Point

23 Square a line fromR to the waist guideline.

Measure 1 on either side of the line and drawdart legs. Extend all dart lines 12 past the waist

guideline

24 B to T= 14 of the Waistcircumference plus

234 (the front is 12 wider than the back, plus14 ease, plus 2 for the dart)

25 Tto G =Front Side Seam

26 Q to S = 12 theFront Shoulder

27 S to S1 = 2 for theDart. At the center of the

dart extend a guideline down to R. Connect

dart legs toR and extend all lines 12 past the

shoulder guideline

28 V= Intersection ofJ1 Mwith line G-H. Shift34 towards the Center Backand mark V

29 U= Square a line down from V, extending 12

past the waist guideline

A

B

CDE

G

M

H

I

K

N L

L1

JJ1

F

FrontBack

+

+

+

+

+ + +

+ +

+

O

P

Q+

+

+

T

R

S

S1

+

+

Y

W

X

W1

U

V+

+

+

3/4

1 1

11

1 1

3/8

Drafting

DiagramSteps 22 36

30 Mark 1 on each side of line and connect the

dart legs to V- Extend the dart legs 12 past the

waist guideline31 Jto Y= 14 of the Waist minus 12, plus 214

for dart and ease

32 Yto G =Back Side Seam

33 Nto W= 12 the Shoulderplus 18 ease

34 W W 1 =34 (Dart)

35 From the dart midpoint draw a guideline 312

toX

36 Connect the dart legs toX. Extend dart lines 12

beyond the shoulder line


25/31


Drafting,andD

rawing

7272 A

B

CDE

G

M

H

I

KN L

L1

J

J1 F

FrontBack

+

+

+

+

+ + +

+ +

+

O

P

Q+

+

+

T

R

S

S1

+

+

Y

W

X

W1

U

V+

+

+

+

+

Z1

Z2

Z3

Z4+

+__

_

+

11/4

1/4

1/2 7/8

approx. 1

approx. 1

armplate

screw

72

37 Square a horizontal guideline from the CenterFrontandBack Neck. Square a vertical line up

to the Shoulder Neck Point

38 Front Neck: Draw a 114 guideline at a 45-

degree angle to the guideline square. Use a

French curve to draw in the necklineA-Q. Keep

the Center Frontneckline level for 14 before

curving

39 Back Neck: Draw a 78 guideline at a 45-degree

angle to the guideline square. Use a French

curve to draw in the necklineI-N. Keep the

Center Backneckline level for 12 before

curving

40 Front Armhole: O toZ1 =12 theAcross Chest

measurement. Square a guideline down toH-G

41 Z2 =2

3 ofZ1 - H-G42 Square a line fromH-G toZ243 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the

guideline square. DrawP-Z2-G using a French

curve.

44 Back Armhole: K Z3 =12 theAcross Back

measurement. Square a guideline down toH-G

45 Z4 =12Z3 - H-G

46 Square a line fromH-G toZ447 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the

guideline square. Draw the lower armholeZ4-G

and the upper armholeZ4-Musing a French

curve


Drafting the Neckline and Armholes

Drafting Diagram

Steps 37 47


26/31

BODIC

E

|7373A

B

CDE

G

M

H

I

KN L

L1

J

J1 F

FrontBack

+

+

+

+

+ + +

+ +

+

O

P

Q+

+

+

T

R

S

S1

+

+

Y

W

X

W1

U

V+

+

+

+

+

Z1

Z2

Z3

Z4+

+__

_

+

+1

73

48 Separate the front and back bodice. Fold thewaistdart legs closest to the centers towards

the sides. Pin the darts closed. Match and pin

the side seam together

49 Square a line 1 from the Center Frontand

back waisttowards the side seam. Use a curve

ruler to blend the front and back waists

50 Run a tracing wheel across the waist and draw

in the jog of the darts

51 Fold the shoulder darts dart legs closest to the

centers towards the sides. Pin the darts closed.

Draw a straight line from Q toPfor the front

and fromNtoMfor the back. Run a tracing

wheel across the shoulder and draw in the jog

of the darts. Note: The back shoulder can be

slightly curved when adjusted on the figure

52 Match and pin the bodiceshoulders together.The back is slightly longer for ease. Blend the

front and backneckline andarmhole at the

shoulder

53 Measure and prepare two pieces of muslin.

Transfer the draft to muslin using a tracing

wheel and carbon paper. Add seam allowance

and cut out. Pin fit and adjust

Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders

Drafting Diagram

Steps 48 53


27/31


Drafting,andD

rawing

74

ecidoB

tnorF

retn

eC

eci

doBkcaBretneC

Shoulder Blade Level

Bust Level

ecidoB

tnorFretneC

ecidoBkc

aBretneC

1/2

74

This sloper is used for drafting styles that include set-in sleeves.

Adjusted sloper for use in sleeveless styles.


Completed Bodice Draft


28/31

BODIC

E

|7575

The fit on the front of the bodice is designed to contour over

the bust apex. The bust apex is the fullest point across the chest.

The bust level runs between the front darts.

The fit on the back of the bodice is constructed to accommodate

the subtle contours of the scapula or shoulder blades. The shoul-

der blade level runs above and parallel to the bust level across

the back of the bodice.

Bust Line

Contour

Bodice

Length

Bodice Dart

Position

Bodice Fit

Bust

Level

Full

Front

Full

Back

Scapula or

Shoulder

Blades

Shoulder

Blade

Level

Back

Dart

PositionShoulder

Blade

Level

Bust

Level

Shaping the Bodice


29/31


Drafting,andD

rawing

7676

Notice how the direction of the torso,

in any pose, affects the contours or

curves in the sewing lines, as they turn

with the figure.

The function of the darts is to make a

garment fit or follow the form, in this

case, the form of the bust line curve.

The torso can be divided into four sides.

This pose shows off two sides and the

front of this square. The turn direction,

for this pose, is evident in the sides andaffects where you draw the dart lines.

Drawing Options

Posing a flat has the

advantage of

emphasizing fit:in this example,

the look or fit of

the bodice as it

hugs the chest.

Flats give you all of

the construction and

shape detail without

the possible distortion

of a posed flat.

Specs provide the most

comprehensive detail-

ing for every aspect in

creating a garment, to

produce it en masse.

Figure

Angles

Form and

Function

Body

Planes

Elongated

Fashion

Figure

Pose

Flat

Spec


30/31

BODIC

E

|7777

Posed The posed flat is usually drawn to emphasize

fit, to highlight form or function. This pose showsoff the bustline contouring.

FlatThe flat, not posed, focuses on pure shape, con-

struction, and proportion. In this case, the bustline

contouring is not emphasized.

Spec The spec has to be drawn as a precise, plain

flat to reflect the specifics of its fit to document its

measurements for production.

Shape Darts

Posed

Flat Finish

Shape Darts

Finish

Non-Posed Portfolio

or Studio Flat

Note:

Shading

Softens

Look of

Fabric

and Also

Accents the

Fit or Form

Technical Flat Sketch for Production

ShapeBig Overall

Measurements

Small Interior

Measurements

Adding Exterior

Measurements

Flat Turned

into a Spec


31/31

integrating draping

Documents