interns at extension this summer - university of...

Campbell County 3500 Alexandria Pike Highland Heights, KY 41076 (859) 572-2600 Fax: (859) 572-2619 campbell.ca.uky.edu June/July 2019

Misty Medeiros was born in New Hampshire and moved

to North Carolina where she lived for eight years before

her family moved back to New Hampshire her sophomore

year of high school. She aquired her love for horses when

she started riding them when she was eight years old.

From her love and curiosity of horses, she decided to

attend the University of Kentucky to study Equine Science

and Management. She will be a senior this fall and finish

her degree. She is interning for Cooperative Extension

Service in Boone and Campbell Counties. She will be

under the supervision of Don Sorrell and Michelle Simon.

During her time, she will be visiting various horse farms,

attending 4-H Camps, completing farm profiles of various

horse farms and putting on field days for them. The field days she is organizing will allow

each farm to showcase the inner workings of each farm and allow the community to ask

questions and learn a little about what each farm has to offer. This is her first time working

with Cooperative Extension serviced, she will be interviewing agents of both counties to get

a well-rounded understanding of what extension is and the many programs offered. She is

very excited for this opportunity and the summer ahead of her. She is hoping to pursue the

Extension Service after she graduates in May 2020. (Misty in dark top.)

Conner Richardson is a native of Campbell County, he

grew up in Alexandria and attended Campbell County

High School, where he was very active in the agriculture

program and FFA Chapter. Through his involvement in

agricultural education and the FFA, he is pursuing a

Bachelor’s Degree in Agricultural Education with a minor

in Agricultural Economics from the University of Kentucky.

During his freshman year at the University of Kentucky,

Conner served the Kentucky FFA Association as the

State Reporter, and represented Kentucky as the

National Officer Candidate during his sophomore year at

UK in the fall of 2018. Conner will be a junior at the

University of Kentucky this fall. Conner worked with

Campbell County Cooperative Extension on a small scale last summer, collecting data and

surveys from the Farmer’s Markets in the county. This summer, Conner is looking forward to interning with the horticulture program

area to continue his work with the Farmer’s Markets, and also expand his skillset and program knowledge from all areas of the

Campbell County Cooperative Extension Service. Conner will complete a project that seeks to provide Farmer’s Markets with the

resources to help them grow and expand their customer base, and the market as a whole.

Interns at Extension this Summer

June 25, Eden Shale Farm Tour (see flyer for details)

July 9, 7:00 p.m. Northern KY Beekeepers Association, CCEO

July 10, 2019 7:00 p.m. Equine Facilities and Farm Management Field Day – Cork and Mane Farm, 3795 Dead Timber Road, California, KY 41007.

July 20, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., Campbell County Backroads Farm Tour – Pick up farm tour maps from the Extension and Conservation District offices or Campbell County Libraries

Sept. (date TBA) 2019, Developing & Implementing a Natural Resources Management Plan for Your Farm – Dobbs/Bezold Farms

September 21, 9:00 a.m. Chute Side Beef Quality and Care Assurance Program, Alan Ahrman Farm

Preparing for Winter, October 12 9:00 a.m. Locations TBA

Agriculture News - June/July 2019

T hese two grant programs were developed to support the

growing need for providing financial assistance to beginning

farmers (farming less than 5 years) and youth (9 to 17 years old)

who wish to be engaged in an agriculture or farming activity.

Organizations that are

financially

supporting these two

programs include:

Campbell County

Conservation District,

Campbell County Farm

Bureau, and Campbell

County Extension

Service. Twelve

beginning farmers and five

youth received funding

during the pat year.

This year’s application

period is from August 8

through August 30. An

application and investment

area guidelines can be

picked up on or after

August 8 from the

Campbell County

Cooperative Extension

Service, 3500 Alexandria

Pike, Highland Heights

(859) 572-2600 or the

Campbell County

Conservation District, 8350

East Main Street,

Alexandria (859) 635-9587.

An informational meeting

about these two grant

programs will be held on August 8 at 6:30 p.m. at the

Environmental Education Center.

Beginning Farmer Grant Program

Application requirements include:

Eligible up to $1,500 per program year with a $3,000 maximum

per FSN number.

Eligible cost share is based on a 50/50 cost share basis.

Only one applicant per household is eligible to receive funds.

Funds distributed to the applicant shall be on a reimbursement

basis.

Applicant must be a resident of Campbell County, 18 years or

older and share in the financial risk of this new farming

operation.

Applicant must not have operated a farm for more than 5 years.

Investment areas include: Agricultural diversification, large

animals, small animals, farm infrastructure, fencing & on-farm

water, forage & grain improvement, poultry & other fowl and

value-added & marketing

Youth Incentive Grant

Program

Application requirements

include:

Eligible up to $500 per

program year.

Eligible cost share is

based on a 50/50 cost

share basis.

Projects previously

done by the applicant will

not be eligible for

reimbursement. This

must be a new project.

Funds distributed to

the applicant shall be on

a reimbursement basis,

upon completion of the

project.

Applicant must be a

resident of Campbell

County between 9 and 18

years old.

Applicant will need to

have parent consent.

Mentoring is required

from one of the following:

4-H leader, Extension

Agent, FFA leader,

school Ag teacher or a

leader of an Agriculture

organization such as

Farm Bureau, Southern States etc.

Investment areas include: Agricultural diversification

(horticulture, hydroponics) large animals, small animals, farm

infrastructure, fencing & on-farm water, forage & grain

improvement, poultry & other fowl, value-added & marketing,

supervised agriculture experience (approved by FFA teacher)

and country ham project. Other agriculture and horticulture

projects will be considered.

Don Sorrell

Campbell County Extension Agent for Agriculture and

Natural Resources

Beginning Farmer and Youth Incentive Grant Programs

Agriculture News June/July 2019 -

W ith springtime finally here, we turn our attention to the

vegetable garden. Getting your transplants up and

growing will give you some delicious homegrown produce in the

months to come. Transplanting gives a plant more space to

develop, but it will temporarily stop growth, not stimulate it.

Therefore, for successful transplanting, try to interrupt plant

growth as little as possible. Whether you grow your own

transplants or purchase them, these eight steps can ensure

successful transplanting into the garden.

1. Transplant on a shady day in late afternoon or in early evening

to prevent wilting.

2. Ensure transplants are well watered and their roots are

thoroughly damp an hour or two before setting them in the

garden.

3. Handle the plants carefully. Avoid disturbing the roots. Try

removing plants from their containers by knocking them out in an

inverted position rather than tugging on the plants. Plants

growing in peat pots may be planted with the pot intact.

4. Dig a hole

large enough

to hold the

roots. Set the

plants to the

lowest leaf at

recommended

spacing. Press

soil firmly

around the

roots.

5. Pour 1 cup

of a solution of soluble plant food and water mixed according to

the label’s directions.

6. Put more soil around each plant, but leave a slight depression

for water to collect. Break off any exposed parts of peat pots so

that they will not act as wicks and pull water out of the soil.

7. Water the transplants as needed for the next 2 to 3 weeks.

A s more and more

consumers seek self-

sufficiency, many are finding

success in their backyard

gardens. Concurrently the green

movement continues to spur

interest in organic practices and

heirloom fruits and vegetables.

Heirlooms are vintage varieties

preserved by passing down

seed through generations.

Generally 50 to 100 years old,

heirlooms are always open pollinated and usually breed true to

type. They often are selected for flavor potential and quality.

Prior to the development of commercial farming methodologies,

heirlooms held a prominent place on the family farm. Today

many of these old-time favorites are finding a niche at local

farmers’ markets and roadside stands. Many hybrid varieties are

a cross between two other varieties to establish characteristics

for mass marketing. Growers might cross tomato varieties for

disease resistance, uniformity and solid texture to improve

shipping stability. Beans and cucumbers might grow low to the

ground on bush type plants which allows for mechanized

harvesting. Heirlooms require a different set of growing practices.

Tomatoes are often indeterminate and require staking. Beans

and cucumbers are mostly vine varieties that need trellising. The

fruits may be more susceptible

to disease and many do not hold

up under excessive handling.

These characteristics leave

heirlooms poorly suited for

commercial growers who sell to

large wholesale markets.

Smaller wholesale markets for

heirloom growers include local

restaurants, food co-ops and

health food stores. Selling seed,

transplants, and value-added

products such as salsa or soup mix represent other income

producing opportunities. The difference between hybrids and

heirlooms arguably may be one of quality versus quantity. It is

noteworthy that heirlooms almost always are ripened on the vine

where hybrids are often picked in the green stage. This may

account for taste and texture differences in the end. Whether you

want to grow heirlooms to sell or simply for the enjoyment of your

own table, many sources exist for good heirloom seeds. Because

they are open pollinated, heirloom lines are much easier than

hybrids to maintain. Look for reputable catalog companies that

offer product descriptions and history. The Sustainable Mountain

Agriculture Center in Berea offers a wide variety of old-fashioned

bean seeds. Kentucky heirloom tomato varieties include KY

Beefsteak and Depp’s Pink Firefly.

Successfully Transplanting Vegetables

Heirloom Fruit and Vegetables


Source: Richard Durham, extension horticulture specialist

Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky (ID-128)

A new, updated version of Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky (ID-128) has

recently been released. A “must have” for all residential gardeners, this 44

page publication is packed with information starting with planning a vegetable garden

and ending with harvest and storage. Covering crops from asparagus to watermelon,

ID-128 includes disease, insect, and weed management information.

Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky (ID-128) is available online at: http://

www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/id/id128/id128.pdf

You could also call the Extension office and ask for a copy. (859) 572-2600

Y ou might think

vegetables will be the

best quality only if they

get adequate water

throughout the growing

season.

It’s important that you water

vegetables well while they

are being established (not an

issue this year) and during

flowering, but sometimes the

best quality garden produce

results when water is

somewhat limited.

All vegetables need a good

supply of soil moisture before and during flowering and during

fruit development. For crops such as cabbage and broccoli, this

period is during establishment and head development.

One to two inches of water per week, in the form of natural

rainfall or supplemental irrigation is enough for most vegetables

during this time. For vegetables you continually harvest, such as

eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, summer squash and green beans,

it’s important to keep an adequate supply of water to the plant.

This ensures even soil moisture throughout the growing season,

and it will keep plants productive longer. Consistent soil moisture

on tomatoes will also help prevent blossom end rot and cracking

of fruit.

You should withhold water from potatoes once the vines have

begun to die. The tubers under the soil are entering dormancy at

that time and excess water or fertilizer may cause regrowth or

cracking of the potatoes, which makes them less suitable for

storage.

Cucumbers will become

bitter without a good supply

of moisture throughout the

entire growing season. On

the other hand, melons will

produce a sweeter fruit

when they are kept drier

once the fruit has reached

about half of its expected

final size.

For melons, don’t cut off

water completely. Continue

to provide one-half to one

inch of water per week.

Heavy rain or irrigation

when the melons are nearly mature will dilute the fruits’ sugar.

Watermelons will reconcentrate the sugar if left on the vine a little

longer. Muskmelons, however, are less apt to do this.

Okra tends to produce more leaves than pods when it’s over

watered, so try to keep these drought-tolerant plants on the dry

side.

A layer of mulch in the vegetable row will help conserve

moisture, reduce weed growth and keep produce cleaner. Using

black plastic film as a mulch has become standard in commercial

vegetable production, but most backyard growers still prefer

organic mulches such as straw, compost or grass clippings. Do

not use grass clippings that have been sprayed with a herbicide.

http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/id/id128/id128.pdf




T omatoes are fun to grow and good to eat. When there are

issues with growing them, I receive many phone calls or

plant samples to determine the problem. Common questions are

about the lack of fruit set, black bottom on the fruit, and spots on

the leaves. When the tomato blossoms drop, the fruit does not

set. One cause of blossom drop is low or high night

temperatures. Most tomato varieties will not set fruit unless the

night temperature is between 55 and 75 degrees F for at least

part of the night. Hot and drying winds, sudden periods of cool

weather, beating rains, or excessive applications of nitrogen

fertilizer can interfere with fruit set. Once fruit set, the first

problem found on the fruit is blossom end rot. It begins as a

small, water-soaked spot on the blossom end, which is the

bottom of the fruit. The spot shrinks and becomes flattened or

sunken. Later, secondary fungi may invade the affected area,

resulting in further decay of the fruit. Usually the first fruits to

ripen are affected. Blossom end rot occurs when environmental

conditions prevent the distribution of calcium to the fruits.

Environmental conditions such as low soil moisture, hot and dry

wind, heavy applications of

nitrogen fertilizer, and fluctuations

in soil moisture contribute to the

development of blossom end rot.

Under environmental stress

conditions, calcium moves to the

leaves with the water inside the

plant and bypasses the fruit.

Without calcium in the fruit, the

tissue at the blossom end of the

tomato breaks down.

To manage blossom end rot, maintain an even moisture supply

by watering plants as needed and mulch the plants with straw to

conserve soil moisture. At this time, applications of calcium to the

soil or foliage do not prevent or cure the disorder. Blossom end

rot is not caused by a lack of calcium in many cases, but by poor

distribution of calcium in the plant.

Early blight is one common disease on tomato plants that is

caused by the fungus Alternaria solani. The fungus generally

causes small, irregular, brown, dead spots on the older leaves of

the plant first. As the spots enlarge, they usually show ridged,

concentric rings in a target pattern. These spots are typically

surrounded by a yellowed area. During periods of high

temperatures and humidity, the fungus can spread.

Septoria leaf spot occurs on tomato leaves too. Septoria leaf

spot is caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersici. The infections

usually start on the older leaves of the plants near the ground. At

first, spots on the leaves appear water-soaked and are often

scattered thickly over the leaf. These spots become roughly

circular and have gray centers surrounded by dark margins. The

spots are smaller and more numerous than those of early blight.

The numerous spots on the leaves eventually cause the entire

leaf to turn yellow, then brown, and wither. This disease is

favored by moderate temperature and rainfall.

Both early blight and septoria leaf

spot spread by spores produced by

the fungi. They often occur on the

same leaves. The spores are

carried by the wind or by raindrops

splashing the spores onto the

leaves. The spores germinate on

the leaf surface and infect the leaf

tissue if the temperature and

moisture conditions are just right for

the fungi.

To manage early blight and septoria leaf spot, cultural practices

can be used. Good air movement around the plants helps dry off

the leaves quickly, which discourages disease development.

Caging or staking plants helps to increase air circulation around

the plants. Also, rotate the location of the tomatoes in the garden

each year to help prevent a buildup of diseases against tomatoes

in one location. Picking off the leaves when you see the spots of

early blight as they first appear may help reduce its spread.

Fungicides can be used

to help manage these

diseases. It is best to

apply them before the

plant is infected. A

fungicide containing the

active ingredient

mancozeb can be used

during the early season

before fruit harvest starts,

and chlorothalonil can be

used during the season

while picking fruit. Good coverage with the fungicide on both

sides of the leaves is important in order to protect the plant from

more infections by early blight and septoria leaf spot. Apply the

fungicide according to the label directions, making sure the

product is labeled for use on tomato plants. Follow label

directions on how often to apply the fungicide and the number of

days you should wait after spraying before you can harvest the

fruit. The fungicide needs to be applied several times during the

season to protect the new foliage.

Common Tomato Concerns Article provided by: Annette Meyer Heisdorffer, Daviess County Horticulture Agent

Septoria Leaf Spot on Tomato. Photo courtesy of University of Kentucky - IPM Team

Blossom End Rot. Photo courtesy of University of Kentucky - IPM Team

Early Blight on Tomato foliage. Photo courtesy of University of Kentucky - IPM Team


B ackyard chicken flocks are

popular in all areas of

Kentucky. If you want to have a

successful flock and produce

your own eggs, preparation and

education are essential.

Not everyone is suited for

keeping a poultry flock. Make

sure you check that your local

city and county ordinances allow

backyard flocks. Some

ordinances require a minimum

amount of land, and some

subdivisions even have their

own rules.

Remember, chickens require

daily care. You must feed them, provide clean water and collect

eggs every day. It is a good opportunity to teach children

responsibility, but make sure they can fit it into their daily routine

and that you supervise them. Keep in mind that chickens can get

sick and very few veterinarians will provide care for them.

Anyone handling chickens needs to make sure to wash their

hands before and after caring for them. Also, don’t bring

chickens into the house and don’t use your kitchen sink to wash

equipment associated with your flock.

Chickens make noise. While it’s true only roosters crow, hens

are not always quiet and they can make a lot of noise to let

everyone know they just laid an egg.

Keep in mind that chickens eat

a lot. You probably can’t

produce eggs cheaper than

you can buy them in the store,

but you’ll have the satisfaction

of knowing from where they

came. Hens use about 60% of

the feed they consume; they

excrete the rest as manure.

Make sure you have a plan for

what you’ll do with all the

manure your flock produces.

You could compost the

manure to produce a valuable,

odor-free fertilizer for your

garden.

To complicate things, chickens stop producing eggs at some

point and they live longer than that window, sometimes a lot

longer. You need to have a plan for what you’ll do with hens

once they stop producing eggs. If you keep them because they

are pets, you’ll have to be willing to continue paying for food

while they are no longer earning their keep.

Another thing to consider is that chickens can destroy gardens.

Chickens scratch when they forage and if you let the hens run

free, you may need to put a fence around your garden to prevent

them from damaging your plants.

As for housing your flock, you’ll need a chicken house that

provides shelter from the weather, nest boxes where your hens

will lay eggs and perches for hens to roost at night. Housing

needs to be easy to clean out and provide protection from

predators. You’ll need to have an open run for hens to get into

the open air. It’s important to keep your chicken house clean and

dry to prevent odor and flies. Manage any bedding well to

prevent rodents from making your chicken house their home.

It can be difficult to obtain ready-to-lay pullets, so you’ll probably

need to raise your hens from chicks. You can buy online and

have them shipped to your home, but some hatcheries require a

minimum purchase of 25 chicks for safe shipping. You can also

buy chicks and local farm stores, but Kentucky state regulations

require a minimum purchase of six chicks. If you only want three,

you could go in with a friend or neighbor to meet the minimum

requirement. You will need to provide chicks with a heat source,

such as a heat lamp, for the first six weeks.

For more information on small or backyard poultry flocks, contact

the (COUNTY NAME) Extension office. You may also

visit https://afs.ca.uky.edu/poultry/poultry-publications.

Information is only a few key strokes away for most farmers with access to the internet. The following are websites that I would highly recommend for you to bookmark on our computer for easy access and credible agriculture information. The first two websites are for beef cattle newsletters developed by UK and Ohio State University Extension folks. The third website is the UK forage web-site and the last website is for the KY Department of Agriculture. Enjoy!! http://afs.ca.uky.edu/beef/extension/newsletters/offthehoof http://beef.osu.edu/beef/archive.html http://www.uky.edu-Ag-Forage- http://www.kyagr.com/

Agriculture Websites

Source: Jacquie Jacob, extension poultry project manager

https://afs.ca.uky.edu/poultry/poultry-publications


Tall Ironweed Control in Grazed Pastures J. D. Green, Extension Weed Scientist

T all ironweed (Vernonia altissma Nutt.) is one of the more commonly found weeds in grazed pasture fields and other

non-cropland areas. In Kentucky, tall ironweed is ranked as the most troublesome and third-most common weed found in grazed pastures. The quantity of grass available for grazing can be substantially reduced in pastures by the presence of tall ironweed because of its unpalatability to livestock. This further leads to an increase in tall ironweed populations over time as animals graze and selectively avoid this weed.

Mowing alone can help suppress top growth of

tall ironweed plants, but does not reduce plant

populations. Mowing or clipping pasture fields,

which is often performed once per year, can

also lead to more multi-stemmed tall ironweed

plants. Whereas, using a timely herbicide

application in problem fields is one method to

effectively reduce tall ironweed populations.

Based on several field research studies tall ironweed populations

can be reduced 80 to 95% the year following herbicide treatment

when combined with other management strategies.

A herbicide-based control program for tall ironweed in grazed

pastures may require a 12- to 18- month time period to reduce

tall ironweed populations and allow for reestablishment of clover.

Tall ironweed control should start in early to mid-July by mowing

emerged tall ironweed stems. Mowing removes top growth of

currently emerged plants which often have older, tattered leaves.

This also forces the plant to use more stored energy from its

roots to develop new shoots. When plants regrow 10 to 20

inches in height (generally in mid to late August) the younger

stems and leaves are more conducive for herbicide uptake. In

August or by early September apply a pasture herbicide

containing either triclopyr (eg. PastureGard, Crossbow, etc.) or

aminopyralid (eg. ForeFront, etc.) as a broadcast treatment.

Although mid-summer (June and July)

treatments can provide good control, better

herbicide movement to the root system occurs

with perennial weeds such as tall ironweed with

late summer applications. Consult product label

or Extension bulletins for recommended use

rates for herbicides.

One of the drawbacks to the application of

broadleaf pasture herbicides is that they can

impact desirable clover stands. Emerged clover

within the treated areas of the field are likely to

be killed. Consult the herbicide label of the

product used for minimum reseeding intervals

for clovers and other desirable forage grasses.

Also, observe other precautions prior to

application.

This approach for tall ironweed control is best suited for fields

with moderate to heavy tall ironweed populations. For lighter

infestations levels, a spot treatment of individual plants may be

warranted to keep tall ironweed populations from becoming a

major problem. Use of rope wick applicators and roller wipers

have also been evaluated for tall ironweed control as a method to

minimize injury to clover. However, the results have consistently

been less successful than broadcast herbicide treatments for

control of tall ironweed.

Call Don at the Extension Office at 859-572-2600 if you would

like a farm visit to look at weed control issues on your farm.

Forage Timely Tips: June Dr. Les Anderson, Beef Extension Professor, University of Kentucky

Continue hay harvests. Minimize storage

losses by storing hay under cover.

Clip pastures for weeds and seedheads as needed.

Slow rotation allowing for a longer recovery period.

Use portable fencing to decrease paddock size and increase

paddock number.

Do NOT graze below the minimum desired residual height. (4

inches)

Crabgrass often consider a weed is a warm-season annual

grass, can provide high quality summer grazing.


W hether you’re taking the crop as haylage or dry hay, it’s

important to pay attention to forage cutting height. One

of our goals as farmers is to maximize our yield; however, cutting

a crop too low can lead to several negative issues. The

introduction of the disk-type mowers (discbines) allows for cutting

very close to the ground. I’ve seen many fields that have been

“scalped” right to ground level. This differs considerably from the

older sickle bar mowers (haybines), whose technology required

that some level of stubble height remain. Stand longevity can be

compromised when the crop is cut too low. As a general rule,

alfalfa can be cut closer to the ground than our grass crops. We

need to think about where energy reserves are stored in the

crop. For alfalfa, carbohydrates are stored below the ground in

the taproot. Grasses store their energy above ground in the stem

base or tillers. Frequent mowing at a close height will continue to

deplete these energy reserves, resulting in stand longevity

issues.

The second consequence for mowing too close to the ground

is increased ash content of the forage. All forage has a natural

ash content of approximately 6%. However, mowing too closely

with disk mowers can add soil to the crop, and increase the ash

content by as much as 10-12% (18% ash content in total

analysis). If we all had table-top smooth fields, it would also be

much easier to make a closer cut across all fields. However,

things such as groundhog holes and the unevenness of fields

can add to increased ash content of our harvested forage.

So, the million-dollar question is how low can you go? The best

answer is…it depends! The first question I always ask is — is it a

solid stand or a mixed stand? If you have grasses involved, you

must keep cutting height higher than a

pure stand of legume, if you want to keep

the grass in the stand. Keep in mind these

are minimum recommendations; it’s OK to

mow higher than the numbers below.

Here are my minimum cutting height recommendations:

Alfalfa or Clover

2” minimum. Some literature shows a

cutting height of 1” will not reduce stand

longevity but remember the increased ash

content (soil and other organic material)

issue. Also, keep in mind that frequent

cutting at early maturity will continue to

deplete carbohydrate reserves. One

cutting of alfalfa should be allowed to

reach the bloom stage each year.

Cool Season Grasses (Orchardgrass, Fescue and Timothy)

4” during the establishment year 3” minimum during production years. This is where we see

most of our stand longevity issues. Frequent cutting of cool

season grasses at a low height will continue to deplete energy

reserves.

Mixed stands of legumes and grasses

You must manage for the predominant species. Do you

have a grass stand with some alfalfa, or an alfalfa stand with

some grass?

Alfalfa with some grass: 2.5” minimum

Grass with some alfalfa: 3” minimum (if you want to keep

the grass stand!)

The Cooperative Extension Service prohibits discrimination in its programs

and employment on the basis of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability or

national origin.

To file a complaint of discrimination, contact Tim West, UK College of

Agriculture, 859-257-3879; Terry Allen or Martha Alexander, UK Office of

Institutional Equity and Equal Opportunity, 859-257-8927; or the USDA,

Director Office of Civil Rights, Room 326-W Whitten Bldg., 14th &

Independence Ave. SW, Washington, DC 20250-9410, 202-720-5964.

Cutting Height in Forages: How Low Can You Go? Dwane Miller, Penn State Extension Educator, Agronomy


P asture is an important component for many livestock

enterprises. Most of our common pasture forage species are

classified as cool season species. This includes fescue,

orchardgrass, bluegrass, and white clover. These forages grow best

when there is adequate moisture, air temperatures in the 50 to 70

degree range and soil temperatures in the 50 to 65 degree range. I

bring this up because our current weather pattern and the extended

forecast are definitely not bringing about conditions for optimum

production. In hot, dry conditions good pasture management is

needed to keep cool season pastures productive.

When the weather is hot and dry it is critical that pastures not be

overgrazed. In grazing schools we talk about the "take half, leave

half" principle. In most cases, a good starting grazing height is 8 to10

inches of growth. Remove animals from a pasture paddock when

average pasture forage height is about 4 inches. The remaining leaf

area provides the "solar collector" surface that allows the

photosynthetic process to keep going and to keep the plant growing.

Studies have demonstrated that the percentage of top growth

removed is correlated with root mass and growth below the surface.

When 50% of the top growth is removed the root mass and growth is

only negatively impacted by a few percentage points. However if

60% of the top growth is removed, the root mass is reduced by about

50%, significantly impacting the regrowth of the plant as well as

nutrient and water absorption. If 80% of the top growth is removed,

the root system is shut down and essentially has to start growth all

over.

In hot, dry weather leaving more plant cover is better. In addition to

keeping the photosynthetic process going and the root system fully

functioning, that leaf cover acts like a mulch to keep the soil

temperature cooler and reduce moisture loss from the soil. This is

important with cool season forage species when a few degrees

difference in soil temperature could determine if the plant will go into

dormancy or continue to grow.

Some pasture managers like to keep seed heads clipped off the

grass plants to keep the plant in the vegetative state and produce

higher quality forage. I have often seen pastures clipped off at 2 to 3

inches in height. During many of our typical springs with cool

temperatures and good moisture the plant can handle this stress.

However, in hot, dry times it is more important to keep the plant

residue so pasture managers may want to tolerate some seed heads

or clip high at around 5 inches.

Hot, dry weather leads to slower pasture growth. As grass growth

slows down, the temptation is to speed up the pasture paddock

rotation. Actually just the opposite is needed. When pasture growth

slows down, pasture rotation must slow down to insure that each

paddock has enough time to recover to a beginning grazing height of

8 to 10 inches. The only way that this can be accomplished without

staying too long in a paddock and overgrazing that paddock is to

have multiple pasture divisions or paddocks. To protect pastures and

manage through hot, dry periods, the livestock owner needs at least

8 to 10 paddock divisions.

In order to keep cool season pastures productive the livestock

manager must look ahead at pasture growth and keep an eye on

extended weather.

"Summer" Pasture Management has Begun! Rory Lewandowski, Extension Educator Wayne County and Crossroads EERA

Hay will never be in a better nutritional

state than the moment it is cut. It

simply deteriorates from that point. The

only thing you can control is getting the

hay baled, out of the field and into good

storage conditions as rapidly as

possible. However, it is important to be

certain that hay reaches a safe

moisture level and internal temperature

before moving it to storage to avoid

spontaneous combustion. Otherwise,

fire can occur in hay stored outside or

in a barn.


Do you stockpile for summer, clip or hay? I cannot believe the weather.

I have never seen a spring

quite like this. We have gone

from soggy wet pastures

with forages that were

hesitating to grow to

runaway forage on wet or

saturated soils.

I’m still an advocate for

utilizing grazing first as the

main means of forage

management. The normal

recommendation is to

continue moving animals through the system until the first

pasture or allotment is ready to be grazed again. Then go back to

that first field and start over. The fields that are skipped can be

used as summer stockpile as is, clipped to remove seed heads,

or mowed for hay. I want to discuss these choices, but first I

encourage you to do a simple assessment.

On average, by early to mid-June, most cool season forages

have reached about two-thirds of their dry matter yield. Stop and

think about that for a moment. By this point, most cool season

grasses have gone from leaves only, to pollinating, to seed

production. Removal of vegetation by grazing has slowed the

process down some, but it won’t stop it.

What you need to assess, is how much forage you have

presently. You should not be able to completely control all

forages by grazing this time of year. Consider this. If two-thirds of

the potential forage that you can normally grow on the farm have

now been grown, there had better be more forage out there than

what you need for the time frame. If the cows are keeping up with

the forages, then you either don’t have enough forage or more

likely, you have too many cows.

It would be nice if forages grew at approximately the same rate

as consumption. There are times when this is possible, but it will

not stay that way long. Pastures can be managed by what I call

“put and take” grazing, which is actually more like a continuous

grazed system, than a rotated system. Animals are added or

removed to keep consumption more in balance with forage

growth. This method is not very practical. This method, if

workable at all, is probably best done with stocker cattle of which

numbers might be slightly easier to adjust, as needed. If you

have a cow-calf operation, it will not work.

Continuing with our discussion on making an assessment, do

you have excess forage right now in mid June? If yes, then good,

animal numbers are at least somewhat in balance with forages

Too much pasture? Clip it, hay it, or stockpile it for summer!Victor Shelton, NRCS State Agronomist/Grazing Specialist

long-term. If no, then

forages will be even shorter

in supply as the year

progresses, reducing the

number of grazing days

and increasing the number

of feeding days. The more

“feeding” days, the more

out-of-pocket expense in

the cost of operation.

Our cool season forages

grow with good soil

moisture and moderate

temperatures, but will slow

down drastically or stop

growth in response to low soil moisture and high temperatures

later in the summer. That’s why you need to stockpile some

growth for later. You also want to go into summer with as much

vegetative forage and cover as possible because that live

vegetative cover helps to keep the soil cooler and slow

evaporation (although it certainly is not an issue right now), which

helps promote at least some continued growth. Fields that are

skipped can be used as summer stockpile as is, clipped to

remove seed heads, or mowed for hay.

If you skip the fields and stockpile them and do nothing else, the

forages will mature. Mature forages are usually lower in protein

and higher in carbon. There is still some good feed value in this

forage, but animals will tend to eat the best and leave the rest. If

the field could use some extra soil organic matter or benefit from

extra rest, then this would be a very good choice. When you

finally get through those earlier paddocks the second time and

find that the first-grazed field is not ready to be grazed again,

then you could go back to the skipped stockpiled field. It is best

to either strip-graze or allocate out in sections to maintain some

quality as you move across the field. While the livestock are

grazing this summer’s stockpile, the rest of the pastures are

resting and recovering the best they can for later use.

There is some value in clipping or topping that summer stockpile

with a rotatory mower, but timing is important. It needs to be

done early enough to help promote some continued growth.

Once the seed heads start drying off, you are mainly only making

the plants look better cosmetically. New growth is harder to

achieve at this stage, especially as drier, hotter days increase.

Clipping must be done while the seed stalks are still green and

before the plants are too big.

It is almost impossible to mow high enough to only remove seed

heads and not remove too much leaf. Mowing too short will

remove potential feed and the better part of the solar panel or


Bees and Pesticides in the Garden Dr. Ric Bessin, UK Extension Entomologist

O verwintering losses of honey bee colonies

has been a major concern for a number of

years. At the same time, there has been a huge

increase in beekeeping by hobbyists. This article

addresses a few steps which can be taken to

minimize hazards to bee when using

insecticides to manage other insect pests in the

garden. There are two main potential ways that

the bees could be harmed when you spray your

trees, vegetables, flowers, and lawn in your yard. Avoid Spray Drift

The first is: bees can be harmed is through spray drift when the

application moves toward and over the colonies themselves. Many

of our documented bee kills with pesticides have been due to

pesticide drift where bee colonies were located in proximity to

areas been treated. So as a long term strategy, try to locate bee

colonies in areas that are less likely to be treated with insecticides,

or plant vegetation around them to serve as a buffer to reduce

spray drift reaching the colonies. Avoid spraying pesticides on

windy days, especially on days where the winds may carry spray

drift in the direction of the colonies. Many pesticide labels provide

guidance on avoiding spray drift. In addition, spraying after 6:00

pm or when the temperature is below 55˚F also helps because the

foraging of bees is greatly reduced. Avoid Contaminating Bee Food & Water Supplies

The second main route to injuring honey bee colonies with

pesticide sprays is: by contaminating their food or water supplies.

As a general rule of thumb, you shouldn’t spray plants in bloom

with an insecticide (in fact, many pesticide

labels expressly prohibit this) or in areas where

pollinators are foraging. “Plants in bloom”

covers more plants than just the ones you

planted or may be interested in. This includes

weeds that may be flowering. An example may

be dandelions or flowering clover underfruit

trees in the yard. The easiest way to deal with

flowering weeds, is to mow or pull them before

you spray.

Bees need a constant source of water to survive; you must be

very cautious to avoid contaminating these sources with pesticide

sprays or other applications. Beekeepers may locate their

watering stations for bees away from areas that are likely to be

sprayed with pesticides. Limit Pesticide Use

The final way to limit damage to the bees, is to only spray if you

need to and to use materials that are effective, but also least toxic

among your choices. Pesticides are just one strategy to prevent

pest damage and should only be used after we have exhausted

cultural, physical, and biological control options. When pesticides

are used, they need to be timed such that they are applied when

most effective, which can reduce the number of applications, and

when pests are at a level to warrant the need for control. Different

insecticides vary widely in their toxicity to honey bees and other

pollinators and there is often several different types to choose

from to control a particular pest. Products containing Bt or Bacillus

thuringiensis are among the insecticides least toxic to honey bees.

Too much pasture? Clip it, hay it, or stockpile it for summer!

cover it up with the clippings. After it is clipped, stems and cut

forage is often coarser and in some cases may be less desirable

to the animal. I’ve seen this go both ways—again timing is

everything. The more vegetative the field is when clipped the

better. There is a cost to clipping, so the added value of forage,

potential extra regrowth, or weed control needs to be obtained to

justify the expense. Most pastures I’ve been in so far this year

that have good fertility and have not been grazed yet, are too

dense and tall to clip, so you would lose more than you would

ever gain. You would be better off just grazing it as discussed

earlier, or my least favorite option—haying it.

If you are in what I refer to as the “building” stage of soil fertility –

in other words, it still needs some, then you would be better off

bringing in sources of fertility, such as hay, then to remove it. Hay

harvested off a pasture will be removing nutrients from where

they are needed and moving them to a “feeding” area where they

are already high. When grazed, most nutrients which are present

have a higher chance of remaining and being used for future

forage growth.

Fields that you cannot graze for one reason or another, would be

better choices for hay or fields where nutrients, especially

phosphorus might be high from past heavy applications of

manure. If a pasture is cut for hay, restore fertility back to that

field as soon as possible to help promote and sustain the forage.

Understand that those fields will take longer to recover than if

they were grazed, especially as the days get hotter, and perhaps

drier.


A quatic plants in farm ponds range from microscopic

organisms known as plankton algae which drift suspended

in the water, to larger plants rooted in the pond bottom. Certain

types of aquatic plants are essential for

fish production. However, aquatic plants

that seem to take over the pond and

interfere with fishing are considered to be

weeds.

Aquatic plants that cause weed problems

may be placed into four groups: algae,

floating weeds, emersed weeds (foliage

above water) and submersed weeds

(majority of foliage below water).

Aquatic weed control is a management

plan that incorporates preventive methods

such as proper pond construction and

maintenance, biological methods such as

the grass carp and the use of labeled

aquatic herbicides. The development of an aquatic weed

management plan is dependent upon correctly identifying the

problem weed(s) and selecting control methods that are

compatible with efficient fish culture procedures.

Aquatic Weed Management

Proper pond construction practices are the first steps in

preventing aquatic weed problems. Rooted aquatic weeds and

algae usually begin growing in shallow water (2 feet or less).

Edges of new and existing ponds should

be deepened so shallow water areas are

minimized.

The grass carp is a practical and

economical way to control certain types of

pond weeds. Grass carp effectively

control weeds with tender succulent

vegetation such as filamentous algae and

duckweed.

Early manual removal of weeds by raking

can prevent some weed problems.

The first step in successful chemical

control is accurate identification of the

problem weed. After the weed has been

identified, a herbicide may be selected.

Give me a call or bring aquatic weed samples to the office for

identification. The following is a list of chemicals that control

different types of aquatic vegetation.

Forage Quote of the Month:

Leaving new bales in the field

is like leaving dirty dishes in

the sink. Sure, it’s convenient

at the time, but in both

situations, after a while they

begin to stink ~

Lauren Peterson


Aquatic group & vegetation

Copper sulfate and some chelated copper complexes

Cutrine -Ultra

Komeen Pondmaster Nautique Captain

2, 4-D Diquat Aquathol Hydrothol Glyphosate Fluridone Triclopyr Imazapyr Sodium carbonate peroxyhydrate

Algae

phytoplankton E E P P G P P G

filamentous algae E E P G P G P P G

Pithophora spp. G G

muskgrass (Chara

spp.) E E P P P G P P

Floating plants

duckweeds P F G P P P E F

water hyacinth P G E E G E E E

watermeal P F F G

Submersed plants

coontail P G G E E E

milfoils P G E E E G E

naiads P G F E E E

pondweeds P G P G E E G1

Emergent plants

alligatorweed F P G F E E

arrowhead P E G G E E E

cattails P F G P E F E

sedges & rushes P F F G P E2 F3

slender spikerush P G P G F

smartweed P F E F E F E E

waterlilies P E P G E G G

water primrose P E F P E F E E

watershield P E P G G E

willows P E F P E P E E

E = excellent control G = good control F = fair control P = poor control blank = unknown or no response G1 Spray only emergent portion E2 for sedge F3 for rush Table from SRAC 361

Product Common Trade Names

Copper Copper sulfate, Cutrine-Plus, Aquatrine, Clearigate, Cutrine-Ultra, K-Tea, Algimycin, Komeen, Pondmaster, Captain, Nautique

Endothall Aquathol, Aquathol K, Aquathol Super K, Hydrothol 191

Hydrothol Hydrothol 191

2, 4-D Navigate, WeedRhap, Weedar 64, Aqua-Kleen

Fluridone Sonar, Sonar AS, Sonar PR, Sonar SRP, Sonar Q, Avast, Avast SRP

Diquat Reward, Weedtrine D

Glyphosate Rodeo, Aquamaster, AquaPRO, AquaNeat, Eraser AQ, Eagre, Glypro, Aquastar

Triclopyr Renovate 3, Garlon 3A

Imazapyr Habitat

Sodium carbonate peroxyhydrate GreenClean, GreenCleanPRO, Pak 27, Phycomycin

Surfactant Cide Kick

Dyes Aquashade, Aquashadow, Admiral Liquid, Admiral WSP


Join us at Eden Shale Farm for a tour of the Large Hay Feeder and the Fenceline Feeders!

interns at extension this summer - university of...

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