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KNITS FIT FOR A FAIRY TALE

SPECIAL ISSUE 2014

K N I T T I N G D A I LY . C O M

from the editors of Jane Austen Knits

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KNITS FIT FOR A FAIRY TALEKNITS FAIRY TALEfrom the editors of from the editors of Jane Austen KnitsJane Austen KnitsEnchantedEnchantedEnchantedE

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Contents

THE BROTHERS GRIMM: FATHERS OF THE MODERN FAIRY TALEby Bonnie-Lynn Nadzeika 6

ROOTS IN LEGEND: TREES IN MYTHS, FAIRY TALES, AND SACRED STORIESby Mary C. Gildersleeve 10

FAIRY-TALE CATSby Amy Harris-Aber 14

THE PRINCESS WHO SPUN NETTLESby Judith Mackenzie 18

A BIT OF MAGIC: THUMBELINA’S DRESSby Josie Mercier 128, 124

4 From the Editor

125 Yarn Sources

122 Classi� eds

126 Project Index

DEPARTMENTS

72

FEATURES

SINISTER46 Eglantine SleevesLynne Vogel Instructions page 52

47 White Queen StoleSusanna IC Instructions page 54

48 Male� cent’s CloakVicki Square Instructions page 56

49 Colubrida WrapAngela Hahn Instructions page 60

50 Hervor’s UndermittensJen Hagan Instructions page 63

51 Riddles with Dragons ShawlKate Poe Instructions page 66

ORDINARY IN THE EXTRAORDINARY24 Sylvania CardiganGabrielle Vézina Instructions page 30

25 Honest Woodsman PulloverKathleen Dames Instructions page 34

26 Woodcutter SocksRachel Coopey Instructions page 37

27 Giant Slayer’s Vine ScarfAndrea Jurgrau Instructions page 39

28 Into the Magic Forest BlanketMelanie Berg Instructions page 41

29 Hansel & Gretel SocksRachel Coopey Instructions page 43

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9874

On the Cover: Snowdrop and Rose Red Cowl by Andrea Jurgrau, page 70

29

NATURE’S MAGIC98 Kitsunetsuki CardiganEmma Welford Instructions page 104

99 Among the Birches ShawlKate Larson Instructions page 108

100 Butter� y Fairy TankIzumi Ouchi Instructions page 110

101 Chloris SontagT. L. Alexandria Volk Instructions page 112

102 The Entwife’s CoatTheressa Silver Instructions page 116

103 Bamboo Princess Baby Blanket and HatKim Driggs Instructions page 120

SINISTER46 Eglantine SleevesLynne Vogel Instructions page 52

47 White Queen StoleSusanna IC Instructions page 54

48 Male� cent’s CloakVicki Square Instructions page 56

49 Colubrida WrapAngela Hahn Instructions page 60

50 Hervor’s UndermittensJen Hagan Instructions page 63

51 Riddles with Dragons ShawlKate Poe Instructions page 66

THE CLASSICS70 Snowdrop and Rose Red CowlAndrea Jurgrau Instructions page 76

71 Rumpelstiltskin’s Wrap Moira Engel Instructions page 78

72 Hunger for Rampion PulloverJen Hagan Instructions page 81

72 String of Flowers CircletSarah Gomez Instructions page 86

73 Taking Flight KerchiefJennifer Chase-Rappaport Instructions page 87

73 Singeli’s Silver SlippersLisa Jacobs Instructions page 89

74 Undine ShawletteAndrea Jurgrau Instructions page 91

75 Merlin SweaterAnne Podlesak Instructions page 94

Special Issue 2014Special Issue 2014

EnchantedEnchantedEnchantedEKnits

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4 Enchanted Knits � knittingdaily.com

he charm and the challenge of fairy tales are that they rarely make sense on their faces. Whether they’re transgressive or just plain nonsensical, they generally make their own rules.

Sometimes it’s laws of nature that they dis-obey. From animals talking in “Puss in Boots” to princesses who slumber for hundreds of years in “Sleeping Beauty,” there are fairy tales that don’t conform to the world as we know it. Others cheat our expectations about the outcome:

The little man is denied his prize in “Rumplestiltskin,” and the princess feels the pea beneath all those mattresses.

I believe the best fairy tales are about transformation, shaking our belief that what is shall always be so. The change can be magical and physical, such as the beast who becomes a handsome prince through pure love. It can be tricky, like the wolf who passes for Grandmother by simply donning her clothing. Or it can be subtler and more earthly, like the ugly duckling whose looks change over the slow passage of time.

Knitting is our act of transformation. Not every knitter works with such desperate urgency as the princess for her brothers the Wild Swans, but working yarn into frothy shawls or sturdy mitts is a slow act of storytelling in stitches. Like the fairy tales, knitting patterns sometimes seem inscrutable but they often reveal unexpected lessons to the careful knitter.

You’ll � nd fairy tales both moral and magical in this issue. As you work through the designs, remember two things:

If the pattern seems to be disguised under a spell, check the glossary at knittingdaily.com for techniques and other assistance.

And no matter how tempting it may be to charm your needles into knitting by themselves, the Sorcerer’s Apprentice reminds us that objects bewitched may not always do our bidding. (In other words: Check your work, read your knitting, and enjoy the process.)

I hope you fall under the spell of your knitting.

Anne Merrow, [email protected]

From the Editor

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Anita OsterhaugEDITOR Anne Merrow

MANAGING EDITOR Liz GoodEDITORIAL ASSISTANT Abbi Byrd

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Amy Clarke Moore, Christina Garton

TECHNICAL EDITORS Jill Aurand, Tracey Davidson, Karen Frisa, Julia Gaddy, Daniela Nii

COPY EDITOR AND PROOFREADER Katie Bright—————————

DESIGNER Jason ReidPRODUCTION DESIGNER Janice Tapia

ILLUSTRATION Bekah ThrasherPHOTOGRAPHY Christa Tippmann

HAIR AND MAKEUP STYLIST Kathryn MacKayWARDROBE STYLIST Allie Liebgott

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Enchanted Knits is a special issue of Spin.Off magazine. Spin.Off ® (ISSN 0198-8239) is published quarterly by Interweave, a division of F+W Media, Inc., 4868 Innovation Drive, Fort Collins, CO 80525. (970) 669-7672. All content of this issue of Enchanted Knits is copyrighted by F+W Media, Inc., 2014. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher. Printed in the U.S.A.

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the content of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online at knittingdaily.com.

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Once upon a time, the staff of Enchanted Knits discovered magical spots for

photographing this magazine. At Compass Montessori School in Golden, Colorado, the massive fireplace and charming farm provided dramatic backdrops. (Thanks to Bekah Piepergerdes for giving us access to the building and for modeling the Entwife’s Coat on page 102.) The lush setting of the Denver Botanic Gardens transported us to the tropics despite the snow outside. Boettcher Mansion in Golden, Colorado offered a number of special spaces inside and out and hospitality fit for royalty.

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Special Issue 2014 � Enchanted Knits 5

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nce upon a time, there lived two brothers named Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm who would become part of a world in a way that neither of them could have imagined. Known today as the Broth-ers Grimm, their work has been loved by count-less children and enmeshed in everyday popular culture in countries throughout the world.

Jacob was born in 1785 and his brother Wilhelm in 1786, the eldest of six surviving children born to Philipp and Dor-othea Grimm. They were a solid middle-class family; Philipp Wilhelm was a lawyer and clerk in the town of Hanau, where the brothers were born, and he went on to become district magistrate in Steinau, Germany. The brothers were tutored at home in a variety of subjects ranging from geography to bot-any. Their childhood was happy, and their social status secure until the devastating death of their father in 1796.

To assist the family, Dor-othea’s sister made arrange-ments for the two eldest Grimms to study at the Ly-ceum in Kassel. The broth-ers lacked the income and family support enjoyed by their schoolmates and came to rely heavily on each other. It was important to their en-tire family that they receive a good education and under-take careers that would help

support their mother and younger siblings, and letters from their family back home reminded them of their duty. One let-ter from their Grandfather Zimmer noted, “I cannot repeat of-ten enough that you must remember your goal, the reason for being where you are.” Each graduated at the top of his class, Jacob in 1802 and Wilhelm in 1803, and went on to study law at the University of Marburg.

It was during this period that the brothers studied under Friedrich Karl von Savigny, who became a great influence on not only their studies but their future careers. Savigny be-lieved that laws could only be fully understood and practiced by studying their origins, particularly emphasizing the study of history and the roots of language. Ultimately, both Grimms would abandon the study of law for that of literature and lan-guage to become scholars and librarians.

Like innumerable fairy-tale characters, the brothers had to deal with forces beyond their control. After the death of their mother in 1808, they took on the roles of both parents for their younger siblings. The area in which they grew up was oc-cupied by the French and for a time became the Kingdom of Westphalia, ruled by Napo-leon Bonaparte’s brother, King Jérôme. Not only did Jacob serve as librarian at the Royal Library under King Jérôme but he also

By Bonnie-Lynn Nadzeika

The Brothers

GrimmFathers of the

Modern Fairy TaleJacob and Wilhelm Grimm, 1843, by Ludwig Emil Grimm.

Jacob and Wilhem Grimm, around 1829, by Ludwig Emil Grimm.

Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm who would become

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served as part of the Hessian War Ministry prior to the French occupation and later was head of the Hessian Peace Delega-tion after the occupation ended. During this period they pub-lished their first books, including the first volume of Children’s and Household Tales in 1812.

Although they were incredibly close and preferred work-ing together, Jacob’s diplomatic positions and political ap-pointments and Wilhelm’s lifelong battle with illness often separated them. Wilhelm suffered from a variety of ailments ranging from asthma to heart disease and had to seek treat-ment wherever he could. The cost of the treatments increased the strain on them to take positions to support their family. While Jacob remained single, Wilhelm married a longtime family acquaintance, Doro-thea Wild, and had five chil-dren. The brothers were continually engaged in some sort of work, often leveraging their positions to continue their research and publishing.

The brothers both worked as librarians in Kassel and later moved to Göttingen to serve as librarians and pro-fessors at the univer-sity there. During this time, they worked diligently collecting folklore and publish-ing books. Politics intervened again in 1837. The mon-arch King Ernst August II dissolved parliament and re-voked the 1833 constitution; the Grimms and five others signed a protest document. All seven were dismissed from their positions, and Jacob was ordered to leave the king-dom. They were forced to relocate and took positions at the University of Berlin, which they held until they retired. After a lifetime battling illness, Wilhelm died in 1859. Jacob died four years later in 1863.

Although the brothers are best known for their work with fairy tales, they published books almost continually through-out their careers: Jacob produced twenty-one books, Wilhelm

produced fourteen, and together they collaborated on eight. Always interested in language and culture, their work ranged from the ambitious undertaking of the first comprehensive German dictionary (they completed through letter F) to a va-riety of works related to German and other European cultures. Unfortunately, none of these resulted in commercial success during their lifetimes.

The work that they are today most famous for, Children’s and Household Tales, was published in 1812. The publication was not intended for children but was part of their efforts to capture German folk culture. Realizing that the work was being used for children and that they might gain some commercial success from it, they continually revised it. Between 1812

and 1857, seven editions were published. Changes were made to each edition: stories were

edited, tales were added, and tales were removed. All in all, more than two hundred tales would appear in various forms in the numerous editions.

Critics of modern adaptations of the Grimm fairy tales (as they came to be known as) often complain that the stories have been altered or sanitized for their current audience; howev-er, the brothers did the same thing themselves. The length of the tales increased as they added detail and embellished the language. The stories took on more references to Christian

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Wilhelm married a longtime family acquaintance, Doro-thea Wild, and had five chil-dren. The brothers were continually engaged in some sort of work, often leveraging their positions to continue their research

The brothers both worked as librarians in Kassel and later moved to Göttingen to serve

and 1857, seven editions were published. Changes were made to each edition: stories were

The 1819 edition of Children’s and Household Tales was illustrated by Ludwig Emil Grimm, younger brother of Wilhelm and Jacob.

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morals. Sex was heavily redacted, although a great deal of vi-olence was added. Rapunzel no longer had nightly visits from the prince. The Frog Prince ceased to occupy the bed of the princess. They also put barriers between the heroes and hero-ines of the stories and their tormentors; mothers became step-mothers who exerted their will over otherwise loving fathers.

In addition, the stories are not all strictly German in origin. Versions of Cinderella, for example, have been told in many countries, one of the earliest dating from approximately A.D. 850 in China. Some of the most famous tales such as “Little Red Riding Hood” and “Snow White” have English, French, and Italian versions. Charles Perrault, the French author who collected fairy tales more than a hundred years before the Grimms, published a ver-sion of “Sleeping Beauty” in 1697.

The Legacy of the Brothers GrimmFrom the time that the Brothers

Grimm published their first book, they have had a major impact on popular cul-ture. By the 1870s, the tales had found their way into the German school cur-riculum. A version of “Snow White” has been produced for film or television near-ly every decade since the beginning of the twentieth century; it was first made into a film in 1902. It was a 1916 version that was the first movie seen by Walt Disney. From 1961’s Snow White and the Three Stooges to the two adaptations produced in 2012, Snow White and the Huntsman and Mirror, Mirror, “Snow White” has come to life countless times. The tale has also ap-peared in episodes of popular television shows from 1973 as “Snow White and the Seven Bradys” to a 1992 Snow White–in-spired episode of Saved by the Bell.

During the 1930s, Walt Disney felt strongly that animated movies as feature films would be the future of animation. He spent many years and ultimately invested everything he owned into producing Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. Originally a cu-riosity, the movie became a sensation and ultimately financed the construction of the Walt Disney Studios. The Disney ver-sion, although it differs greatly from the Grimm’s version, re-tains much of the Germanic feel, from the dark forest to the beer steins found in the dwarfs’ cottage. Disney went on to produce several more films based on fairy tales, from Cinder-ella to Tangled. While not every film is credited as originating from the Grimm stories, the fairy tales have nonetheless influ-enced each one. Disney’s 1959 Sleeping Beauty was based on Charles Perrault’s version of the story, yet elements including the

thornbushes growing around the kingdom are derived from the Grimms.

Countless others besides Disney utilized the stories for reasons ranging from the political to the personal. The Grimms’ desire to preserve German culture was corrupted in Nazi Germany, where Little Red Riding Hood and the Big Bad Wolf became metaphors for Hitler’s views on racial purity and anti-Semitism. Meanwhile, in the United States, cartoonist Tex Avery provided a whole new take on the Big Bad Wolf in his 1943 short “Red Hot Riding Hood,” transforming Little Red into a femme fatale singer and the wolf into her ardent fan, the once innocent little girl turning the tables on the wolf. In 1971, poet Anne Sexton included her own ver-

sion of Little Red Riding Hood in her book Transformations, which featured a collection of Grimm tales adapted as poems that reflect-ed her lifelong struggle with depression.

Although always present on the page, in film, in television, as opera, as ballet, and on stage, fairy tales have had an incredi-ble resurgence in popularity in recent years. The Grimm tales and characters have been again at the forefront of storytelling. Little Red Riding Hood, Snow White, and Han-sel and Gretel have all made appearances in major motion pictures in the last three years. Meanwhile, the characters have ap-peared on television in forms that Jacob and Wilhelm could never have imagined. Not one but two fairy tale-themed televi-sion shows debuted in 2011.

Ultimately, fairy tales, whether by the Grimms or others, are a lot like knitting: The origins of both are uncertain. Their style and technique vary widely from cul-ture to culture. Each generation takes part of the original and turns it into something new. And both take simple materials and

turn them into magical creations. •BONNIE-LYNN NADZEIKA is an avid knitter, reader, and writer living in northern New Jersey. She has spent her entire career in the museum field, working at numerous historical sites. She enjoys bringing her love of needlecrafts and history together.

BIBLIOGRAPHYGrimm, Jacob, Wilhelm Grimm, and Maria Tatar. The Annotated

Brothers Grimm. New York: W.W. Norton, 2004.Hettinga, Donald R. The Brothers Grimm: Two Lives, One Legacy. New

York: Clarion, 2001.Tatar, Maria. The Hard Facts of the Grimms’ Fairy Tales. 2nd ed. Princ-

eton, New Jersey: Princeton University, 2003.Zipes, Jack. The Brothers Grimm: From Enchanted Forests to the Modern

World. New York: Routledge, 1988.

Jacob Grimm at his desk, 1817, by Ludwig Emil Grimm.

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Conchobar, the head of the house of Ulster. Sent to a castle far, far away, in the middle of a forest, Deirdre grew in beauty day by day. As she drew near marrying age, the king, an old man by now, demanded her for his wife despite the warning.

But the curse of Deirdre’s beauty set Irish and Scottish men warring with each other, led to the death of her lover, Naoise (NEE-sha), and his brothers, and caused King Conchobar to lose his kingdom and all that he held dear. Unable to forget

Roots in Legend

Trees in Myths, Fairy Tales, and Sacred Stories

nce upon a time, a baby girl was born, announcing her own impending birth with a blood-curdling scream from the womb. When she was born shortly after, a Druidic priest prophesied that the child would grow to be the downfall of an ancient Celtic house. Due to the druid’s prognostication, the

baby was named Deirdre, an Irish name that means “broken-hearted” or “sorrowful.” Deirdre was ordered into exile by King

would grow to be the downfall of an ancient Celtic

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Opposite page: The legendary yew tree (Taxus baccata) can be found in stories from “Robin Hood” to “Deirdre of the Sorrows,” and it is found planted in many cemeteries.Left: A seventeenth-century Icelandic manuscript depicts the tree Yggdrasil.

religious beliefs or as a way of portraying human emotions.

Holy TreesThe ancient Nordic people spoke of Yggdrasil,

the ash tree that harbors the gods and world of Norse legend. Yggdrasil spreads over the world, supporting Asgard, the realm of the gods, in its topmost branches; Midgard, the realm of the humans and the dwarves, in its trunk-to-branches section; Jötunheim, the land of the giants, and Niflheim, the world of the dead, in its root system. In the Hávamál, a collection of Norse poems from the Viking era, Odin sacrifices himself in the tree to gain knowledge.

Naoise, horrified to be wed to King Conchobar, she took matters into her own hands. While out riding her horse one day, she threw herself to the ground, dying instantly. Shortly after her burial, a yew tree sprang up on her grave.

The yew’s part in the tale of Deirdre of the Sorrows is just one time when trees play a part in the myths and legends of the ancient peoples. Virtually every culture uses the image of a tree to describe the birth of the world or the world’s place in the cosmos, or as a symbol of their

©SHUTTERSTOCK/ SEMMICK PHOTO



In Judeo-Christian tradition, the Tree of Knowledge of Good and Evil holds center stage as the root of hu-manity’s problems. This tree in the Garden of Eden, which is described as a large fruit-bearing tree (often an apple tree), led to mankind’s fall from grace.

The ancient Hindus of India imag-ined their world tree as an upside-down sacred fig tree. The roots of Ashvattha were in the heavens, while the branches covered the earth. This tree was considered one aspect of Brahman, the world spirit. Some be-lieved that the tree contained the Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. The tree also produced a juice, soma. Anyone who drank this soma received immor-tality from the gods. Ashvattha was also the source of all fruits and seeds, a true tree of life.

Tree Fairy TalesBut trees are also significant in fairy tales told throughout

time to teach morals and right behavior. Trees in these stories can shelter and protect, as in the story of Snow White, who lived in the deep forest to hide her presence from the wicked queen. Other benevolent trees from a modern-day fairy tale are the Ents of Tolkien’s legendary Lord of the Rings cycle. Trees who shepherd the flora and fauna of the forests while protect-ing the free peoples of Middle-earth, the Ents come alive to protect the good.

Trees that talk and whistle or sing include the classic tale from the Brothers Grimm, “Frau Holle,” in which a tree of-fers opportunity: An apple tree asks a good, industrious little girl to shake him. When she does, the apples (or in some tales showers of gold) fall down and she is given a better life. Her stepsister, a selfish and lazy character, tries to repeat the trick

and ends up with nothing—or worse. In Hans Christian Andersen’s tale The Fir-Tree, the tree takes on the human characteristic of always wanting what it can’t have. In the end, the tree realiz-es that he missed his chance to be joy-filled in his youth.

Yew TreesIn Western Europe, the yew tree

(Taxus baccata) is often mentioned for its longevity, magic powers, and leg-endary status. Yew trees will grow to a great height and distance, entwining branches with other yews. It is preva-lent throughout the British Isles and evinces the romantic and mystery in the tale of Deirdre and Naoise.

Because of its longevity and ability to grow new trees from aged branches, the yew tree has become a symbol of life conquering death. Even today, most yew trees in the British Isles are found in churchyards, graveyards,

and other religious places. Some of the plantings pre-date Christianity: the yew was there before a church, monastery, or other sacred building was erected on the pagan site.

Yew wood is similar to cedar or pine, being classified as a softwood. Yew is easy to work, the hardest of the soft-woods, while also possessing a remarkable elasticity. These characteristics make yew boughs ideal for products that re-quire flexibility and spring, such as bows. Robin Hood and his merry men purportedly made their legendary longbows from the branches of local yew trees. Although their home was probably an oak forest, and a “major oak” is considered their meeting tree, yews are still part of the “Robin Hood” story. There is a legend that a yew tree in Doveridge (Der-byshire), estimated to be over 1,400 years old, was the site of Robin and Maid Marian’s marriage.

In the story of Deirdre of the Sorrows, a yew tree sprang up al-most immediately over Deirdre’s grave. Legend states that across the river, where Naoise was buried, a yew tree also sprang up over his grave. These yew trees grew and grew and grew. Eventual-ly the branches reached toward each other over the distance be-tween their graves, entwining in an eternal embrace.

MARY GILDERSLEEVE is a design-artist in Virginia.

RESOURCESwww.ancient-yew.org/mi.php/trees-in-mythology/79www.educationscotland.gov.uk/scotlandsstories/deirdreofthe

sorrows/deirdrestory/index.asp www. merganser.math.gvsu.edu/myth/trees.htmlwww.mythencyclopedia.com/Tr-Wa/Trees-in-Mythology.htmlwww.treesforlife.org.uk/forest/mythfolk/yew.html

The tree in Hans Christian Andersen’s “The Fir-Tree” lies discarded on the floor in this illustration by Edna F. Hart from the 1914 edition of Hans Andersen’s Fairy Tales.

The young fir tree depicted in the 1905 edition of Eventyr of historier by Hans Christian Andersen, illustrated by Vilhelm Pedersen.



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ur lives revolve around stories. We’re made of them: tales that vacillate between existing in our culture’s collective con-

sciousness and ones that hide in older pat-terns that modern people may not be aware of. Stories themselves are ageless, a reflec-tion of humanity’s need to create mytholo-gies that explain life. Fairy tales are passed through cultures like half-dreamt memories. Popular mov-ies sometimes reform them, but they always return with some hint of their original pur-pose. They are malleable shape-shifters. They are shadows and dust that somehow hold on to per-manence despite the ever-changing age.

My favorite kinds of stories are the ones that create more questions than they answer. It’s no surprise that I love fan-tastical anecdotes that c o n c e r n t h e m s e l v e s with glass slippers and poisoned apples. Popu-lar culture has been fo-cusing on fairy tales in recent years, with televi-sion shows such as Once Upon a Time and box-of-fice hits like Maleficent. But I don’t think that “Jack and the Beanstalk” or “Sleeping Beauty” will ever fall out of style. Ev-eryone has a favorite, and each story whispers something slightly different to each ear that hears it.

I love tales that feature fantastical cats the best. I spent my summers on my grandmother’s farm in Kansas. Instead of being whisked away to the Technicolor world of Oz to find a cowardly lion, I stayed grafted to the dirt and ran through fields where the lines between earth and sky were never clearly defined.

There were cats living in the woodpile at the outskirts of the barnyard. In the eve-ning, I’d watch them dart from place to place chasing the rabbits or scurrying up the sides of tractors. During the day, one or two might emerge from their hiding spots to find cooler resting places. They came in all shapes and sizes. Some had tortoiseshell patterns, others wore stripes. They looked

like beautiful scraps of fabric flitting in and out of sight. They never came near me.

I wondered at these creatures that moved as if they weren’t quite com-mitted to the ground. They wondered at me, too, with their jade and citrine eyes. The cats seemed knowing and wise in a way that unset-tled me.

On Their Own TermsAs I grew older, I found

that I was not the only one to have such a reaction to these furry feline wander-ers. As Maria Nikolajeva reminds us in her essay “Devils, Demons, Famil-iars, Friends: Toward a Se-miotics of Literary Cats,” humans character ize Felis catus with an “enig-matic nature.” Nikolaje-va mentions the long-held traditions of the power of names and cats. She states that “the cat’s ability to conceal its true name is. . . prominent in many

narratives,” which further points to the mystery and defiance we project onto these creatures. It’s no wonder so many fairy tales feature them as heroes and trick-sters. We have given them the power to mystify, and they unwit-tingly but willingly comply.

Rudyard Kipling gave audiences a modern yet effective myth that imagines how cats came to interact with humans in “The

Illustration by Rudyard Kipling of “The Cat that Walked by Himself,” from Just So Stories.

Fairy

By Amy Harris-Aber

taleCatsur lives revolve around stories. We’re made of them: tales that vacillate between existing in our culture’s collective con-

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Cat that Walked by Him-self” from his Just So Stories. At the beginning of the story, the cat declares himself wild and without close compan-ions, claiming that he is “the Cat who walks by himself, and all places are alike [to me].” In other words, the cat claims he’s not here to make friends; apparently, there’s no time for that. Yet by the end of Kipling’s tale, both fe-line and human have accept-ed the beneficial potential of an alliance.

Kipling’s story incudes a theme that pervades quite a few fantastical cat stories and provides us with a con-text for our relationships with them: We have accused cats of aloofness. We sometimes find them cold. When life seems confusing and terrify-ing, it seems appropriate to take issue with a creature that seems unshakable, unflappa-ble, and irreverent by nature. But it is necessary to remem-ber that these creatures are very interested in almost ev-erything going on. The cat is simply choosy about when and where to get involved.

Mind you, there are loads of stories about cats who get involved.

Puss in BootsPuss in Boots was one

such creature. The earliest version of “Puss in Boots” was probably passed down orally, and we might argue that this is the way all stories are born. According to Jack Zipes, editor of The Great Fairy Tale Tradition, “magical helper” tales like “Puss in Boots” come from all over the world. The story that we are familiar with has roots in Giovan Francesco Straparola’s “Costantino Fortunato” (Lucky Constantino), which was first circulated in the sixteenth century.

It is a familiar story even in its oldest and original form: a parent dies, and the youngest son, Constantino, is left with nothing of the estate save for a cat. The two elder brothers are not the kindly sort, and there is a great deal of suffering

Puss-in-Boots or Der gestiefelte Kater, illustrated by Carl Offterdinger in the late nineteenth century.

for both the boy and his feline inheritance. When all hope seems lost, it is revealed that the cat is actually a good fairy in disguise. She tells her master, “[D]on’t be depressed. I’ll take good care of you and find enough provisions for the two of us” (Zipes, 391). True to her word, the hero of the story ris-es “from poverty or even beggary to become a powerful king” (Zipes, 393). The good fairy cat delivers a hare she’s caught to the king himself and uses the opportunity to sing her master’s praises, calling him the “most virtuous and handsome man in

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the world” (Zipes, 391). The young man’s luck only gets better from that point on. The king simply can’t help but reward the cat’s charming behavior.

Zipes explains that in the earliest versions of the tradition-al “Puss in Boots” tale the cat remained female until Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm took hold of the story in their 1812 edition of Children’s and Household Tales. Cats are often aligned with a cer-tain feminine energy, and this tradition is fairly constant in the realm of fable, as in an Madame d’Aulnoy’s French tale “The White Cat,” the story of a cat who is really a cursed princess.

Cats and WitchesThe traditional fairy tale witch is often pictured on a broom

with a black cat. It happens that my favorite fantastical cat story relies heavily on the witch/cat partnership. It is a story my Gram used to tell me while I visited her years ago on that farm in Kan-sas. It was about a little girl sent by a particularly nasty step-mother to the witch Baba Yaga for some thread and a needle.

Baba Yaga is the most feared witch in all of Russia. Depend-ing on which story you hear, or what kind of day she’s having, a person could either get a gold star and a cookie or have her head bashed in—she’s just that kind of person. Her house is built on giant chicken legs that crash around the forest like an unwieldy monster from a Japanese horror film. She has iron teeth that are filed down to sharpened points. Instead of fly-ing on a broomstick, the fearsome woman travels in a mortar and pestle, scooping up little kids so she can eat them.

Baba Yaga also owns a cat. This little girl ends up sitting in the

house on chicken-legs, spinning wool while a maid cleans out a tub in which Baba Yaga’s guests are routinely boiled alive. Luckily, the cat intervenes.

The cat asks, “Little girl, do you want to get out of this?”

“I do,” she says, not thrilled at the thought of being someone’s dinner. The cat gives the little girl a towel and a comb and tells her to throw one item behind her each time she hears the witch draw-ing near. Then, like any sane person would do, our heroine books it.

The witch eventually tries to chase down her errant supper. The girl first throws the towel, and there is suddenly a river behind her that gives Baba Yaga soggy troubles. Not one to be easily dis-couraged, the witch finally makes it onto the other side of the river bank and is again hot on the girl’s trail. This time, our plucky heroine throws the comb far over her shoulder. An impenetrable for-est springs up in seconds and surrounds the ancient spell-working cannibal. For

all I know, the witch never made it out of the forest—that part was never clear. But the girl makes it home alive, all thanks to the cat.

The Cat and UsIt’s worth remembering that humans always seem more than

ready to project their motives and mannerisms onto creatures they want to relate to. Perhaps the complicated nature of the cats in these stories speaks to my own goals and identity. I hope that like these cats, I can also survive, adapt, and courageously lend help to those in need. However, I’d be lying to you if I said I don’t still think about the old woodpile that still stands on the edge of the barnyard. I questioned whether or not the branches were cut from the very trees that kept Baba Yaga trapped. Despite this terrifying thought, I suspect that the cats who never came near me might have secretly been there to protect us.

Someday, if I find a towel and a comb on my doorstep, I’ll know what to do.

AMY HARRIS-ABER is an adjunct professor. She and her husband own a clowder of cats, and she will be starting a PhD in folklore studies at Middle Tennessee State University this fall.

RESOURCESNikolajeva, Maria. “Devils, Demons, Familiars, Friends: Toward

a Semiotics of Literary Cats.” Marvels & Tales 23,2 (2009). <http://digitalcommons.wayne.edu/marvels/vol23/iss2/2>.

The fearsome Baba Yaga, traveling in her mortar and pestle, pictured in The Red Fairy Book illustrated by by H. J. Ford, published in 1905.

EK_014-016_Harris-Aber_Cats.indd 16 6/26/14 8:58 AM


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nce upon a time, long ago and far away, there was a beautiful country: mountains with snowy tops, valleys sweet with pastures and fruit trees, rivers clear and bright that ran to a sparkling sea.

The king of this world was tall and hand-some, just as a king should be. He was also just

and kind, a definite plus in a king. He had eleven sons as bright and shining as the mountains, as kind as the beautiful val-leys, and as constant as the shin-ing sea.

But of all the treasures in the kingdom—more precious than the gold from the mountains and the sweet apples from the valleys and the flashing silver fish in the sea—the dearest of them all to the king was his last-born child, Iso-bel. When she gathered berries in the forest, the rabbits hopped and danced along her path, and chickadees followed her through the sunlit trees.

There was, of course, trouble in paradise.

The king, in spite of his beau-tiful children, was a little sad. For you see, his lovely queen, the mother of the eleven good and noble sons and the beautiful and kind Isobel, had died and he missed her, missed her, missed her.

And at night, when all were asleep, the sheep in their mead-ows, the fish in the arms of the sea, and his children dreaming their sweet dreams, he would lie down in his big wide kingly bed, and a tear would slip down his cheek.

You would think that in this perfect world, when cruelty and wickedness reared their heads, they would be ugly so that all would know and be warned. But it is not true. Wickedness can come in seductive beauty.

When Princess Mia of Ravenswood arrived at the castle, the king rose from his throne and held out his hand to her—

completely smitten by midnight black hair; still, gray eyes; and lips like blood-red currants in a winter forest. Princess Mia smiled her cool smile and took his hand.

Beautiful and ruthless, she was just as you might imagine a stepmother. She convinced the king that his wonderful sons had gone to see the wider world. In truth, she had taken them into the dark woods and put a spell on them to turn them into swans. Up they flew, puzzled and dismayed, into a cold

winter sky. She convinced the king that Princess Isobel needed lessons in ladylike behavior and should be sent out of the perfect world to a good school. Mia took the child Isobel deep into the darkest forest in Ravenswood to be brought up by a poor wood-cutter and his wife.

The king, smitten as he was (poor fool!), asked no questions, and while he missed his love-ly daughter and his handsome sons, the beautiful Mia—with the midnight hair, eyes as still as a winter’s silver pool, lips as red as winter currants—made sure he had not a moment to won-der where his children might be. But one day, such a long time lat-er, the king remembered he had a daughter and insisted that Queen Mia fetch her home at once.

Mia was not happy; she wor-ried that her charms might not be working if the king had noticed that his beloved daughter was not by his side. When Mia reached the woodcutter’s hut, she saw the

most beautiful young woman: radiant, full of light. A tiny spot-ted fawn tugged at Isobel’s skirt. Isobel and the woodcutter’s wife laughed and danced while the fawn chased behind.

Mia stormed in, her black hair like smoke, her eyes like cold fire. She dragged Isobel away while the fawn and the woodcut-ter’s wife cried and called after her. She dragged the princess into the deep, dark woods and savagely cut off her shining hair

By Judith Mackenzie

THE PRINCESS WHO

SPUN NETTLES

Illustration by H. J. Ford from The Yellow Fairy Book, published in 1906.

was a beautiful country: mountains with snowy

EK_018-023_Mackenzie_Nettles.indd 18 6/26/14 9:29 AM

Illustration by Maxwell Armfield from the 1910 edition of Faery Tales from Hans Andersen.


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and matted it with mud to her skull. She rubbed walnut skins all over Isobel’s body until her skin was stained and dreary. She tore the simple handwoven dress and threw away the lit-tle lace shawl Isobel had spun and knitted. And then she took her to the king.

The king took one horrified look at the matted hair, the torn ragged dress of the dirty, stained young woman who reached out to him with tears in her eyes saying, “Father, Fa-ther!”

“She’s so ugly!” he said. “Take this imposter away—I have no daughter who would look like that! She is not mine—take her away!”

And as the men-at-arms dragged Isobel out of the castle and through the meadows, farther and farther away to the dark forest, Mia, queen of the perfect world, laughed and laughed. Her laughter stopped butterflies dead in their flight, and the chickadees fled.

Alone in the deep, dark forest, Isobel was desolate. Lost and alone, she cried herself to sleep, curled up in the moss beside a forest pool. She woke to find a little red fox sitting beside the pool and washing his face with his paw. She covered her face with her hands saying, “What shall I do? Where can I go? Oh, I am so alone in this world.”

“Not quite alone,” said the fox in his cheerful voice. “You have me! Now, come to the pool and eat these red strawber-ries and drink this crystal clear water. Let’s wash you up. Then we’ll reconsider the situation.”

I sobe l , be ing sen-sible and brave as well as beautiful, took the good fox’s advice. The fox showed Isobel how to find the wild horse-tail that grows by the ponds. She scrubbed and scrubbed with the horse-tails until a lovely young woman with a fresh glow-ing complexion emerged from the dirty walnut stain. And the fox, who was very prideful of his own lovely coat, carefully worked away at her mat-ted and chopped hair un-til a new Isobel emerged with a crop of golden curls, shiny bright like the cinquefoil that bloomed in the meadows of her childhood.

“Now,” said the fox, “tell me how you have come to be in these dark woods.” And he sat pa-

tiently with his beautiful tail flicked over his paws while she told the story of the king’s sadness and the coming of wick-ed Mia to the perfect world. She told him of her lost brothers, her life in the forest with the woodcutters, and her return to her father only to be driven away.

From the 1893 edition of Hans Christian Andersen’s Stories for the Household, published by McLoughlin Bros. (illustrator unknown).

Illustration by Vilhelm Pedersen from H. C. Andersens Eventyr og Historier.



When Isobel had finished her story, the fox gazed at her with tenderness and compassion. He saw her brave spirit and true heart that no amount of dirt or walnut stain could hide.

He said to Isobel, “I can help you, but it won’t be easy. We need to find your brothers. They need your help.” He explained that they had been imprisoned by the terrible queen and trans-formed into swans. But he had heard there was a weak spot in the queen’s spell, a tiny opening where they could be freed and become handsome young princes once again.

“How can I free them?” Isobel asked the fox. “Where are they? When will I see them?”

“Hold on, hold on!” said the fox, holding his paws over his ears. “One thing at a time! First, can you spin?”

“Oh yes,” she said. “I learned long ago from the woodcut-ter’s wife. We would spin our sweet sheep’s wool into yarn and the flax plant’s straw into thread.”

“Second, can you knit?” asked the fox. “Oh yes,” she said. “In the winter, we would knit the yarn

from the sheep to make soft, warm socks; we would knit the linen thread into lace to sell.”

“Well,” said the fox, “how lucky are we! This spell can be lifted by a young woman who can spin and knit and is as brave as she is good. I think you are the very one I have been searching for!”

Then Isobel looked stricken, and tears threatened to slip down her cheeks. “But where will I ever find a wheel in this dark forest! And I don’t even have my knitting needles!”

“No time for tears,” said the fox. “Spinning isn’t done by the wheel, my dear, neither is knitting done with needles; it’s done best with your heart and your hands. Come with me, and I’ll show you what you must do.”

And off they went—the fox with his purposeful trot and the young Princess Isobel at his side, resolute and determined. As they came to the edge of the forest, the path split into two. One way went to the little village they could see in the distance. The afternoon sun made it look lovely—peaceful and abundant, fruit trees and lambs, the sound of chickens, the smell of wood smoke.

Of course, they took the path less traveled. It led to a tiny cot-tage, just one room with two windows on either side of a bright red door. The fox walked up the path to the door. He barked once, twice, and on the third bark, the door flew open. Inside it was bright and warm with a fire on the hearth and a bubbling pot of soup. Isobel felt her heart open wide.

When they were fed and cozy, the fox curled on the rug by the fire and Isobel tucked into the bed under a wool quilt, the fox told Isobel stories of his adventures in the wide world. At the end of each story, the fox would say, “Against every dark-ness, we have a light.” And Isobel drifted to sleep dreaming of the light of the moon, the light of a million stars.

In the morning, the fox told Isobel what must be done to

lift the spell. First, she must agree never to say a word until the spell was lifted, no matter who asked, no matter how hard or dangerous it was to remain silent. Isobel thought of her beauti-ful brothers trapped by such a wicked woman and such a wick-ed spell and knew she would not speak.

She was to knit a sweater for each brother; she needed to spin the yarn herself and the yarn would be made with nettle. “Nettle,” said Isobel anxiously. “I’ve never spun nettle.”

“Not to worry,” said the fox. “It is a wise and an-cient plant. We spun it long ago. It made

ropes and sails to let us travel the wide world and fishnets to feed us and

cloth for comfort.” “But we use flax for those things

now,” said Isobel. “Ah, yes,” said the fox. “Now

we use flax, a simpler plant that doesn’t need its freedom. Net-tle could not be fettered; it need-

ed its own wild ways and couldn’t bow its head to the plow. For magic,

we need strength and wildness.” And so off they went in search of wild nettle.

They found the nettles growing in rich soil by a little creek at the edge of the spruce forest. They

were as tall as Isobel with beautiful dark green leaves covered with drops of dew that shone like crystals in the morning light. “Be careful to pull them out by the roots,” said the fox. “We’ll hang them on the cottage wall to dry. And Isobel, from the time you touch the stems, you must never speak until your broth-ers are released from this wicked spell.”

She reached out and grasped the stem of the nettle. Out it came with a network of wild, white roots. The fox could see the red welts forming on Isobel’s hands and arms, but she didn’t fal-ter and she didn’t cry. He quickly collected wild dock, a plant that always grows near nettle. He broke the stems open and rubbed the juice on Isobel’s stings. She smiled her thanks as the pain less-ened and bravely pulled more.


“Well,” said the fox, “how

lucky are we! This spell can be lifted by a young woman who

can spin and knit and is as brave as she is good. I think you are

the very one I have been searching for!”



Like everything that matters, partic-ularly good textiles, it’s a long time between the plant and the yarn. First, the plants had to dry upside down so the rich oils from the roots spread through the fiber. Then the root and the stocks were bundled up to wait for the fall rains. The fox and Isobel spent their days helping the farmers in the fields and orchards. At night, the fox worked on the beautiful cedar spindle whorl he was carving for Isobel. As he carved, he told stories of the world. And at the end of each story, the fox would say, “Against every darkness, we have a light.”

When the autumn rains came, the fox showed Isobel how to lay the nettle stems on the wet grass and to check them to see if the outer bark was rotting away. When it was just sloughing off easily, they carried the stems down to the little creek and washed all the vegetable matter away.

When it was dry, the very clever fox showed Isobel how to crack the fiber over her knee, then comb it from the blossom end to the root, one plant at a time. Each plant was combed through finer and finer combs until she had a lovely strick from each plant she had pulled up. Isobel was amazed at how lovely it was, silvery and shiny, strong and beautiful.

The fox showed Isobel how to use the spindle, and quickly she set to spinning a fine thread. As she spun, she thought of her brothers, hoping that as winter came they had found a safe haven against hunters and ter-rible cold. And as she spun, the fox made beautiful knitting needles, each topped with a small swan.

Of course, people talked. A wom-an living alone with a fox, a wom-an who didn’t speak, a woman who spun in the old way with a spin-dle and, of all things, spun wild net-tle. Not really proper, even a little bit scary. Yes, she had kindly helped when the cow couldn’t birth properly,

but what magic did she know that let her

save the calf when no one else could? And what

about the way the soup pot in the cottage was always full, no

matter how many hungry people came to her door? And she wouldn’t

speak or answer any questions, and only she could understand what the fox

said. Magic, they said, sitting around their fires at night. Witch. When the creek froze and there was no water,

they blamed Isobel. When the cat gave birth to three blind kittens, everyone knew she had put a spell on it.

And so the cold, cruel winter twisted the kindness of the fox and Isobel into sinister threads that wove the villagers

tighter and tighter into a web of fear and hate.By midwinter, Isobel had spun all the nettles. She had shin-

ing, silky skeins, one for each brother. She knitted away, sweat-er after sweater taking shape as she worked. Quiet days, lovely days knit-ting while the fox told his stories and the soup kettle steamed away and the snow fell deeper and deeper.

On the darkest night, before the sun’s return, the mutterings of witchcraft, just tiny flickers at first, began to burn with a wicked heat. People started to say things like, “Suffer not a witch to live” and “Fire cleanses an evil heart.”

The people, who had been helped and nourished by the fox and Isobel, met in the village. They brought brush and wood with them. They set a stake in the village green and heaped the brush and wood around it. They ran down the road not taken, beat down the red door. They grabbed the fox and stuffed him in a sack to drown him later. They dragged Isobel to the green and bound her to the stake.

As they took her, she had grabbed her precious knitting bag and she frantically worked to finish the last

Illustration by Walter Crane from the 1914 edition of Household Stories from the Collection of the Brothers Grimm.

Illustration by Walter Crane from the 1914 edition of Household Stories from the Collection of the Brothers Grimm.



sweater. “Answer us, tell us,” they said, “why do you spin nettle, not flax like a good woman would? Do you knit spells to destroy our crops and kill our animals? Speak, to save your life!”

Still she knitted and remained silent. The torches came nearer and nearer. The fox worked frantically to free himself and raced to the square. The flames had al-ready started to lick at the bottom of the pyre. He looked frantically for some way to free Isobel. But as he raced toward her, down through the smoke and the win-ter clouds came a great swirling of white beating wings. Eleven perfect swans, cry-ing out to their sister, beat out the flames with their wings. As she threw the sweat-ers up to them, each became a strong and handsome prince. Isobel tried to keep knitting, even through the smoke and flames. But her youngest brother, still a swan, took her in his wings, lifting her away from the fire. The sweater, touching him, transformed him, all except the tips of his fingers, which still had the beauti-ful white feathers of a swan. For the rest of his life, he would smile when he looked at them and remember his sister saying, “Let me just finish this row!”

All’s well that ends well. Isobel is saved, the brothers returned to their hu-man forms. The villagers, deeply ashamed of their behavior, vowed not to cast a stone before they had a good look in their own hearts first. (And maybe not to cast a stone at all, ever again.)

But Isobel could not find the fox, though she looked frantically for him. She remembered she could talk, and she called for him. She could hear his voice, but through the crowds and smoke, she couldn’t find him. She saw a lovely man, redheaded, with warm brown eyes and the kindest smile. She said, “Oh please help me, I have lost my dearest friend.”

And he said, “Isobel, it’s me. You have freed me as well from an evil spell.”

And, of course, they all lived happi-ly ever after.

Just remember what the fox said:Against every darkness, we have a

light.

JUDITH MACKENZIE of Forks, Washington, has been a textile artist for over thirty years. She is at work on a book about spinning luxury downs, and she’s starred in a number of Interweave spinning videos.


Illustration by Vilhelm Pedersen from H. C. Andersens Eventyr og Historier.



Sylvania CardiganDesigned by Gabrielle Vézina. PAGE 30. YARN: Swans Island Washable Wool Aran Weight.

Ordinary in the Extraordinary

Anyone can be enchanted by an encounter with magic—an innocent child, a noble passerby, a daring knitter.

Photo by Anita Osterhaug

EK_024-029_G_Ordinary_Extraordinary.indd 24 7/1/14 12:51 PM


Honest Woodsman PulloverDesigned by Kathleen Dames. PAGE 34. YARN: Madelinetosh Tosh Vintage.


Woodcutter Socks

Designed by Rachel Coopey. PAGE 37. YARN: Swans

Island Natural Colors Merino Fingering.


Photo Anita Osterhaug


Special Issue 2014 � Enchanted Knits 27Special Issue 2014 � EnchantedEnchantedE KnitsKnitsK nits nits 27

Giant Slayer’s Vine ScarfDesigned by Andrea Jurgrau. PAGE 39. YARN: Knit Picks Aloft, distrib-uted by Crafts Americana.



Into the Magic Forest BlanketDesigned by Melanie Berg. PAGE 41. YARN: Cascade Yarns 128 Superwash.



Hansel & Gretel SocksDesigned by Rachel Coopey. PAGE 43. YARN: Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock.




Sylvania CardiganGabrie l le Vézina

Take your cue from the elves, dryads, satyrs, and other forest dwellers with this cardigan. A large leaf pattern and many cables take root at the bottom edge, while the dark leaf pattern gives a mysterious air. Explore your own sylvan side as you make your way through this versatile design, which comes together like magic: knitted from the top down, it is joined at the underarm and worked seamlessly.

FINISHED SIZE 33¼ (36½ , 39, 42¼ , 46¼ )" bust circumference, buttoned. Cardigan shown measures 33¼ ".YARN Swans Island Washable Wool Aran Weight (100% super-wash Merino; 100 yd [91 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #EWW413 aubergine, 11 (13, 14, 15, 16) skeins.NEEDLES Body—size 6 (4 mm): 32" circular (cir) and set of double-pointed (dpn). Ribbing—size 4 (3.5 mm): 32" circular (cir) and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); cable needle (cn); stitch holders; 6 5⁄8" buttons; tapestry needle.GAUGE 20 sts and 28 rows = 4" in St st on larger needles; 21 sts of Leaves chart = 4¼ " wide; 6 sts of Cable chart = 1" wide.

See knittingdaily.com/glossary for terms you don’t know.

31¾ (35, 38¼ , 41½ , 44¾ )"80.5 (89, 97, 105.5, 113.5) cm

6¼ (7, 7, 7¾ , 8¾ )"16 (18, 18, 19.5, 22) cm

body

½ (½ , ¾ , ¾ , ¾ )"1.3 (1.3, 2, 2, 2) cm

8 (8¼ , 8¾ , 8¾ , 9½ )"20.5 (21, 22, 22, 24) cm

14½ (15, 15, 15½ , 15½ )"37 (38, 38, 39.5, 39.5) cm

29½ (32¾ , 35, 39, 43)"75 (83, 89, 99, 109) cm

8½ (9½ , 10¼ , 11, 11¾ )"21.5 (24, 26, 28, 30) cm

31¾ (35, 37½ , 40¾ , 44¾ )"80.5 (89, 95, 103.5, 113.5) cm

18 (18½ , 18½ , 19, 19)"45.5 (47, 47, 48.5, 48.5) cm

2¼ (2½ , 3, 3¼ , 3½ )"5.5 (6.5, 7.5, 8.5, 9) cm

4¼ (4½ , 4½ , 4¾ , 5)"11 (11.5, 11.5, 12, 12.5) cm

14¼ (15, 15¾ , 16¼ , 17½ )"36 (38, 40, 41.5, 44.5) cm

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EK_030-044_Ordinary_Extraordinary.indd 30 6/26/14 1:56 PM


NOTES - The body of this cardigan is worked from the top down back and forth in rows. The upper back is worked first, then the fronts, then the pieces are joined for the lower body. Sleeve sts are picked up and worked in the round from the top down with short-row cap shaping.

- A circular needle is used to accom-modate the large number of stitches.

- When working short-rows, work wraps together with wrapped stitches when you come to them.

- Use the knitted method to cast on stitches within the work.

- The number of stitches of the Leaves chart varies from 21 to 23. All stitch counts are based on 21 stitches in the Leaves chart.

- Before shaping back armholes, take note of the row of the cable patterns you’re on so you can start shaping front armholes at the same place.

- When ending top back section, take note of the row of the leaves pattern you’re on so you can resume at the same place later.

- When ending the armhole shaping for front, make sure you end at the same row of the pattern as the back.

CardiganBackWith larger cir needle, CO 55 (63, 67, 73, 79) sts. Do not join.Set-up row (WS) P11 (13, 15, 16, 17), place marker (pm) for right shoulder, p0 (2, 2, 4, 6), work Row 6 of Right Cable chart over 6 sts, work Row 12 of Leaves chart over 21 sts, work Row 6 of Left Cable chart over 6 sts, p0 (2, 2, 4, 6), pm for left shoulder, p11 (13, 15, 16, 17). Shape shoulders (see Notes):Short-row 1 (RS) Work in patt to last 8 (8, 12, 12, 11) sts, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) Work in patt to last 8 (8, 12, 12, 11) sts, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 3 Work in patt to last 2 (2, 7, 7, 6) sts, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 4 Work in patt to last 2 (2, 7, 7, 6) sts, wrap next st, turn.

Size 39 (421⁄4, 461⁄4)" only:Short-row 5 (RS) Work in patt to last 2 sts, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 6 (WS) Work in patt to last 2 sts, wrap next st, turn.

All sizes: Work all sts even in patt until piece measures 6 (6¼, 61⁄2, 61⁄2, 7)" from armhole edge of CO, ending with a WS row. Shape armholes: Working new sts in St st, inc 1 st at each armhole edge every RS row 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) times—63 (71, 77, 83, 91) sts (see Notes). Work 1 WS row even. Inc 1 st at each armhole edge every row 6 times—75 (83, 89, 95, 103) sts. Piece measures 8 (8¼, 8¾, 8¾, 9½)" from armhole edge of CO. Break yarn. Place all sts on holder.

Right FrontWith RS facing, larger cir needle, and beg at armhole edge, pick up and knit 11 (13, 15, 16, 17) sts from CO sts at back right shoulder. Work 2 rows in St st. Shape shoulder:Short-row 1 (WS) Purl to last 8 (8, 12, 12, 11) sts, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (RS) Knit.Short-row 3 Purl to last 2 (2, 7, 7, 6) sts, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 4 Knit.

Size 39 (421⁄4, 461⁄4)" only:Short-row 5 (WS) Purl to last 2 sts, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 6 (RS) Knit.

All sizes: Work even in St st for 13 (13, 11, 11, 11) rows, ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Inc 1 st at neck edge every row 1 (3, 3, 5, 7) time(s), ending with a RS row—12 (16, 18, 21, 24) sts. Shape front panels:Row 1 (WS) K1, purl to end.Row 2 (RS) Knit to last st, pm, p1.Row 3 CO 1 st (see Notes), p1, k1, sl m, purl to end—13 (17, 19, 22, 25) sts.Row 4 Knit to m, sl m, p1, k1.Row 5 CO 4 sts, purl to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, purl to end—17 (21, 23, 26, 29) sts.Row 6 Knit to m, sl m, work Row 1 (3, 5, 1, 3) of Left Cable chart over 6 sts.Row 7 CO 6 sts, purl CO sts, work next row of Left Cable chart over 6 sts, sl m, purl to end—23 (27, 29, 32, 35) sts.Row 8 Knit to m, sl m, work next row of Left Cable chart over 12 sts.


Row 9 CO 6 sts, purl CO sts, work next row of Left Cable chart over 12 sts, sl m, purl to end—29 (33, 35, 38, 41) sts.Next row (RS) Knit to m, sl m, work Left Cable chart over 18 sts. Work even in patt until front measures 6 (6¼ , 61⁄2, 61⁄2, 7)" from armhole edge of pick-up row, ending with a WS row. Shape arm-hole: Working new sts in St st, inc 1 st at armhole edge every RS row 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) times—33 (37, 40, 43, 47) sts. Work 1 WS row even. Inc 1 st each armhole edge every row 6 times—39 (43, 46, 49, 53) sts for each front. Break yarn. Place all sts on holder.

Left FrontWith RS facing, larger cir needle, and beg at neck edge, pick up and knit 11 (13, 15, 16, 17) sts from CO sts at back left shoulder. Purl 1 WS row. Shape shoulder:Short-row 1 (RS) Knit to last 8 (8, 12, 12, 11) sts, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) Purl.Short-row 3 Knit last 2 (2, 7, 7, 6) sts, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 4 Purl.

Size 39 (421⁄4, 461⁄4)" only:Short-row 5 (RS) Knit to last 2 sts, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 6 (WS) Purl.

All sizes:Work even in St st for 14 (14, 12, 12, 12) rows, ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Inc 1 st at neck edge every row 1 (3, 3, 5, 7) time(s), ending with a RS row—12 (16, 18, 21, 24) sts. Shape front panels:

Row 1 (WS) Purl to last st, k1.Row 2 (RS) CO 1 st, p1, pm, knit to end—13 (17, 19, 22, 25) sts.Row 3 Purl to m, sl m, k1, p1.Row 4 CO 4 sts, knit to 1 st before m, p1, sl m, knit to end—17 (21, 23, 26, 29) sts.Row 5 Purl to m, sl m, k1, purl to end.Row 6 CO 6 sts, knit CO sts, work Row 1 (3, 5, 1, 3) of Right Cable chart over 6 sts, sl m, knit to end—23 (27, 29, 32, 35) sts.Row 7 Purl to m, sl m, work next row of Right Cable chart over 12 sts.Row 8 CO 6 sts, knit CO sts, work next row of Right Cable chart over 12 sts, sl m, knit to end—29 (33, 35, 38, 41) sts.Row 9 Purl to m, sl m, work next row of Right Cable chart over 18 sts.Next row (RS) Work Right Cable chart over 18 sts, sl m, knit to end. Work

even in patt until front measures 6 (6¼ , 61⁄2, 61⁄2, 7)" from armhole edge of pick-up row, ending with a WS row. Shape armhole: Working new sts in St st, inc 1 st at armhole edge every RS row 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) times—33 (37, 40, 43, 47) sts. Work 1 WS row even. Inc 1 st each armhole edge every row 6 times—39 (43, 46, 49, 53) sts for each front.

Lower BodyJoining row: (RS) Work 39 (43, 46, 49, 53) sts left front in patt as established, CO 1 (1, 1, 2, 3) st(s), pm for left side seam, CO 6 sts, pm, CO 1 (1, 1, 2, 3) st(s), work 75 (83, 89, 95, 103) back sts from holder in patt as established, CO 1 (1, 1, 2, 3) st(s), pm for right side seam, CO 6 sts, pm, CO 1 (1, 1, 2, 3) st(s), work 39 (43, 46, 49, 53) right front sts from holder in patt as established—169 (185, 197, 213, 233). Next row (WS) Work in patt to 6 sts before right-side seam m, work Left Cable chart over 6 sts, sl m, work in patt to 6 sts before left-side seam m, work Right Cable chart over 6 sts, sl m, work in patt to end. Work even until piece measures 31⁄2 (4, 41⁄2, 5, 51⁄2)" from joining row, ending with a WS row. Shape waist: Dec row (RS) Work in patt to 2 sts before left-side seam m, k2tog, sl m, work Right Cable chart over 6 sts, sl m, ssk, work in patt to 2 sts before right-side seam m, k2tog, sl m, work Left Cable chart over 6 sts, sl m, ssk, work in patt to end—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every 6th row 2 (2, 2, 1, 1) more time(s)—157 (173, 185, 205, 225) sts rem. Work even in patt until piece measures 6¾

11

9

7

5

3

1

Leaves

21 to 23 sts

Left Cable

6 sts

5

3

1

6 sts

Right Cable

5

3

1

Key

knit on RS; purl on WS

purl on RS; knit on WS

yo

k2tog

ssk

k3tog

sl 1, k2tog, psso

no stitch

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k2 from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, k2 from cn


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m, work next row of chart to m, sl m, [k2, p2] 4 (5, 6) times, k2, p1.Sizes 361⁄2 (421⁄4)" only:Next rnd K1, [p2, k2] 5 (6) times, sl m, work next row of chart to m, sl m, [k2, p2] 5 (6) times, k1.

All sizes:Work in patt as established until sleeve measures 18 (18½, 18½, 19, 19)" from underarm. BO all sts in patt.

Left SleeveWork as for Right Sleeve, working Left Cable chart in place of Right Cable chart.

FinishingBlock piece to measurements. Neck-band: With smaller cir needle, RS facing, and beg at top edge of right front, pick up and knit 98 (102, 102, 110, 114) sts evenly around neck opening. Do not join. Next row (WS) P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Work in rib as established until neckband measures 1", ending with a WS row. BO all sts in patt. Buttonband: With

smaller cir needle and RS facing, pick up and knit 102 (106, 106, 110, 110) sts evenly along right front edge. Next row (WS) P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Work in rib as established until band measures 1½", ending with a WS row. BO all sts in patt. Mark place-ment of 6 buttons, one ½" from lower edge, one ½" from neck edge, and the others evenly spaced in between. Buttonhole band: With smaller needles and RS facing, pick up and knit 102 (106, 106, 110, 110) sts evenly along left front edge. Next row (WS) P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Work in rib as established until band measures ¾", ending with a WS row. Buttonhole row (RS) Work in patt, working a 2-st 1-row buttonhole opposite each button m. Work even in patt until band measures 1½", ending with a WS row. BO all sts in patt. Sew buttons to button band opposite button holes. Weave in ends.

GABRIELLE VÉZINA is a daydreamer who loves to take long walks in the forest and in the city, especially with her dog, who loves it just as much as she does. She’s an avid knitter, and her inner world is filled with ideas of knitwear. She lives in Montreal, Canada, and can be found online at gabriellevezina.com.

time(s).Next short-row (RS) Knit to m, sl m, work next row of chart, sl m, knit to last turning point, wrap next st, turn.Next short-row (WS) Purl to m, sl m, work next row of chart, sl m, purl to last turning point, wrap next st, turn.Rep last 2 rows 8 (9, 8, 10, 15) more times.Next short-row (RS) Knit to m, sl m, work next row of chart, sl m, knit to last turning point, k2, wrap next st, turn.Next short-row (WS) Purl to m, sl m, work next row of chart, sl m, purl to last turning point, p2, wrap next st, turn.Rep last 2 rows 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) more time(s).Next row (RS) Knit to m, sl m, work next row of chart, sl m, knit to last turning point, k3 (3, 4, 5, 5), pm at center un-derarm. Join in the rnd. Work even in St st and Cable patt until sleeve measures 11⁄2" from underarm. Dec rnd Ssk, work to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 8th rnd 0 (0, 1, 2, 4) more time(s), then every 6th rnd 13 (13, 12, 10, 9) times—44 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts rem. Work even in patt until sleeve measures 16 (161⁄2, 16½, 17, 17)" from underarm. Change to smaller dpn.Sizes 331⁄4 (39, 461⁄4)" only:Next rnd P1, [k2, p2] 4 (5, 6) times, k2, sl

(71⁄2, 8¼, 9, 9¾)" from joining row, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) Work in patt to 1 st before left-side seam m, M1R, k1, sl m, work Right Cable chart over 6 sts, sl m, k1, M1L, work in patt to 1 st before right-side seam m, M1R, k1, sl m, work Left Cable chart over 6 sts, sl m, k1, M1L, work in patt to end—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 6th row 2 (2, 3, 2, 1) more time(s)—169 (185, 201, 217, 233) sts. Work even in patt until piece measures 13 (131⁄2, 131⁄2, 14, 14)" from joining row, ending with Row 2, 4, 6, or 12 of Leaves chart. Change to smaller needles. Next row (RS) Work in patt as established over 18 sts, [k2, p2] 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) times, k2, sl m, work in patt as established over 6 sts, sl m, [k2, p2] 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) times, k2, work in patt as established over 6 sts, [k2, p2] 2 times, k2, p1, M1P, [k2, p2] 2 times, k2, work in patt as established over 6 sts, sl m, [k2, p2] 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) times, k2, sl m, work in patt as established over 6 sts, sl m, [k2, p2] 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) times, k2, work in patt as established over 18 sts—170 (186, 202, 218, 234) sts. Work in patt as established until ribbing measures 1½". BO all sts in patt.

Right SleeveWith RS facing, larger dpn, and beg at center of underarm, pick up and knit 4 (4, 4, 5, 6) sts from first half of underarm CO, 32 (34, 36, 36, 38) sts evenly spaced from base of armhole to top of shoulder, 32 (34, 36, 36, 38) sts evenly spaced from top of shoulder to base of armhole, then 4 (4, 4, 5, 6) sts from other half of underarm CO—72 (76, 80, 82, 88) sts. Shape cap:Set-up Short-row 1 (RS) K33 (35, 37, 38, 41) sts, pm, work Row 5 of Right Cable chart over 6 sts, pm, k4 (5, 5, 5, 6), wrap next st, turn.Set-up Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to m, sl m, work next row of chart to m, sl m, p4 (5, 5, 5, 6), wrap next st, turn.Short-row 1 (RS) Knit to m, sl m, work next row of chart over 6 sts, sl m, knit to last turning point, k1, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to m, sl m, work next row of chart over 6 sts, sl m, purl to last turning point, p1, wrap next st, turn.Rep last 2 rows 4 (4, 5, 4, 1) more



30¼ (34, 37¾ , 41, 44¾ , 48½ )"77 (86.5, 96, 104, 113.5, 123) cm

5¼ (5¾ , 6¼ , 6¾ , 7½ , 8½ )"13.5 (14.5, 16, 17, 19, 21.5) cm

body

17½ (18, 18½ , 19½ , 20, 20½ )"44.5 (45.5, 47, 49.5, 51, 52) cm

8 (9¼ , 10, 11¼ , 12, 13¼ )"20.5 (23.5, 25.5, 28.5, 30.5, 33.5) cm

12¾ (14½ , 16, 17½ , 19¼ , 20¾ )"32.5 (37, 40.5, 44.5, 49, 52.5) cm

3½ (3¾ , 4¼ , 4½ , 5, 5½ )"9 (9.5, 11, 11.5, 12.5, 14) cm

4 (4¾ , 5¼ , 5¾ , 6¼ , 6½ )"10 (12, 13.5, 14.5, 16, 16.5) cm

14 (15, 15½ , 15½ , 16, 16)"35.5 (38, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5, 40.5) cm

Honest Woodsman Pullover

Kathleen Dames

Losing his axe in a river, a woodsman in Aesop’s Fables weeps at the loss of his livelihood. Hermes appears and, hearing the woodcutter’s story, dives into the lake. He brings up a golden axe and asks if this is the one that was lost, but the woodcutter refuses it, saying that his had been ordinary. Hermes does the same with a silver axe, but the woodsman refuses again. Hermes brings up the woodcutter’s axe and gives him the other two as a reward for his honesty. Knit these woodgrain cables and short-row saddles for your own honest hero.

FINISHED SIZE 30¼ (34, 37¾ , 41, 44¾ , 48½ )" chest circumference. Pullover shown measures 37¾ ".YARN Madelinetosh Tosh Vin-tage (100% superwash Merino; 200 yd [183 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): bark, 7 (8, 10, 11, 12, 14) skeins.NEEDLES Size 6 (4 mm): 29" circular (cir) and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); remov-able markers; stitch holders; cable needle (cn); tapestry needle; waste yarn for provisional CO.GAUGE 20 sts and 28 rows = 4" in St st.


44¾ , 48½ )" chest circumference. Pullover shown measures 37¾ ".YARN tage (100% superwash Merino; 200 yd [183 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): bark, 7 (8, 10, 11, 12, 14) skeins.

pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size

gauge.

yarn for provisional CO.GAUGE

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NOTES - This sweater is worked seamlessly from the bottom up with grafted underarms.

- The shirt yoke is created with short-rows across the shoulder saddles as well as the upper back. The upper back is joined to the right saddle with a short graft.

- Turned hems for the body and cuffs begin with provisional cast-ons and create a clean finish.

- Cabling without a cable needle will help you move quickly through the woodgrain pattern.

Stitch GuideS2kp2: Sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso—2 sts dec’d.

K2tog tbl Bind-Off:K1, *k1, insert left needle into fronts of 2 sts on right needle and work k2tog tbl from this position; rep from * to end.

SweaterBodyWith cir needle and using a provisional method, CO 176 (200, 224, 240, 264, 288) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Next rnd *K18 (16, 14, 22, 20, 18), pm, work Woodgrain chart over 70 (84, 98, 98, 112, 126) sts, pm; rep from * once more. Cont in patt until piece measures 14 (15, 15½, 15½, 16, 16)" from CO, or desired length to under-arm. Next rnd Work 16 (15, 15, 20, 20, 20) sts in patt, place last 14 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22) sts worked on holder for under-arm (0 [0, 1, 0, 0, 2] of these st(s) will be before beg-of-rnd m), work 88 (100, 112, 120, 132, 144) sts in patt, place last 14 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22) sts worked on holder for underarm, work to end of rnd—74 (86, 96, 102, 112, 122) sts for each of front and back. Break yarn and set aside.

SleevesWith dpn and using a provisional method, CO 40 (46, 50, 56, 60, 66) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in St st for 6 rnds. Inc rnd K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 6th rnd 11 (12, 14, 15, 17, 18) more times—64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104) sts. Work even until piece measures 17½ (18, 18½, 19½, 20, 20½)" from CO. Next rnd K7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) and place these

sts on holder for underarm, k50 (58, 64, 70, 76, 82), place next 7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts on holder for underarm—50 (58, 64, 70, 76, 82) sts rem. Place sts on holder.

YokeWith cir needle, k50 (58, 64, 70, 76, 82) sleeve sts, pm in first st of body front for raglan, work 74 (86, 96, 102, 112, 122) front sts in patt, pm in last st of body front for raglan, k50 (58, 64, 70, 76, 82) sleeve sts, pm in first st of body back for raglan, work 74 (86, 96, 102, 112, 122) back sts in patt, pm in last st of body back for raglan, pm and join for working in the rnd—248 (288, 320, 344, 376, 408) sts total. Work 2 rnds even. Dec rnd *Work to 1 st before raglan m, s2kp2 (see Stitch



Guide); rep from * 3 more times (last dec uses first st of next rnd; pm for beg of rnd after last dec)—8 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 3rd rnd 8 (10, 11,

12, 13, 14) more times—176 (200, 224, 240, 264, 288) sts rem: 54 (62, 70, 74, 82, 90) sts for each of front and back, 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) sts for

each sleeve, 4 raglan sts. Left saddle: Next row (RS) Remove beg-of-rnd m, k32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52), ssk (marked st with next st of front), turn. Work back and forth in rows across sleeve/saddle sts as foll: Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), p32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52), p2tog (marked st with next st of back), turn. Next row (RS) Sl 1 kwise with yarn in back (wyb), k32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52), ssk (marked st with next st of front), turn. Rep last 2 rows 16 (19, 22, 23, 26, 28) more times, then work WS row once more—140 (158, 176, 190, 208, 228) sts rem: 36 (41, 46, 49, 54, 60) sts for each of front and back, 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) sts for each sleeve/saddle, 4 raglan sts. Back: Next row (RS) Sl 1 kwise wyb, k16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26), place next 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) left saddle sts, 1 raglan st, and 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 30) front sts on holder—105 (119, 133, 143, 157, 171) sts rem: 18 (21, 24, 25, 28, 30) sts for front, 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) sts for right sleeve/saddle, 36 (41, 46, 49, 54, 60) sts for back, 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) for left sleeve/saddle, 3 raglan sts. Work back and forth in rows. Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25), p2tog (marked st with next st of back), turn. Next row (RS) Sl 1 kwise wyb, k16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26), turn. Rep last 2 rows 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 28) more times, then work WS row once more—87 (99, 111, 119, 131, 141) sts rem: 18 (21, 24, 25, 28, 30) sts for each of front and back, 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) sts for left saddle/upper back, 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) sts for right sleeve/saddle, 3 raglan sts. Break yarn. Place 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) left saddle/upper back sts and 1 raglan st on holder. Right saddle: With RS facing, sl 18 (21, 24, 25, 28, 30) front sts and 1 raglan st to right needle. Rejoin yarn at beg of right saddle. Next

14 st repeat

Woodgrain

35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Key

knit

purl

pattern repeat

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k1, p2 from cn

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, p2, k1 from cn



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row (RS) K32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52), ssk (marked st with next st of back), turn. Work back and forth in rows across sleeve/saddle sts as foll. Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52), p2tog (marked st with next st of front), turn. Next row (RS) Sl 1 kwise wyb, k32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52), ssk (marked st with next st of back), turn. Rep last 2 rows 16 (19, 22, 23, 26, 28) more times, then work WS row once more—34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54) sts rem: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) right saddle sts, 2 raglan sts. Neck: Graft 17 (19, 21, 23, 25, 27) held upper back sts to corresponding 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) right saddle sts and 1 raglan st using Kitchener st—17 (19, 21, 23, 25, 27) sts rem. With RS facing, pick up and knit 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 32) sts along back neck, k35 (39, 43, 47, 51, 57) held left saddle and front sts—72 (80, 88, 96, 104, 116) sts total. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in St st until neck measures 2" from joining rnd. Using the k2tog tbl method (see Stitch Guide), BO all sts.

FinishingGraft held sts at underarm tog using Kitchener st. Body hem: Remove provisional CO and place 176 (200, 224, 240, 264, 288) sts onto cir needle. Pm and join in the rnd. Purl 1 rnd for turning ridge. Dec rnd *K3, k2tog; rep from * to last 1 (0, 4, 0, 4, 3) st(s), k1 (0, 4, 0, 4, 3)—141 (160, 180, 192, 212, 231) sts rem. Knit 8 rnds. Fold hem to WS along turning ridge. Sew live sts to corresponding purl bumps on WS of body, skipping every 5th purl bump. Sleeve hem: Remove provisional CO and place 40 (46, 50, 56, 60, 66) sts onto dpn. Pm and join in the rnd. Purl 1 rnd for turning ridge. Dec rnd *K8, k2tog; rep from * to last 0 (6, 0, 6, 0, 6) sts, k0 (6, 0, 6, 0, 6)—36 (42, 45, 51, 54, 60) sts rem. Knit 8 rnds. Fold hem to WS along turning ridge. Sew live sts to corresponding purl bumps on WS of sleeve, skipping every 10th purl bump. Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

KATHLEEN DAMES lives and knits in New York City, where she tries to find the magical in everyday life with her princes, big and small, and her two little princesses. In addition to creating innovative sweater patterns for men, women, and children, she teaches children to knit. See more of her work at www.kathleendames.blogspot.com.

Woodcutters abound in mythology, but nowhere more famously than in the tale of Little Red Riding Hood. Whether the Big Bad Wolf succeeds in luring Little Red Riding Hood to become his dinner or she eludes him, the Woodcutter comes and saves her (and generally her grand-

Woodcutter SocksRachel Coopey

mother, too). These hearty socks are inspired by tall, strong trees and the heroes who chop them down while waiting for young girls to need rescuing from wolves!

FINISHED SIZE 7 (8, 8¾ )" foot circumference; foot length is adjustable; 9" from top of cuff to bottom of heel. Socks shown measure 8".YARN Swans Island Natural Colors Merino Fingering (100% organic Merino; 525 yd [480 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): logwood, 1 skein.NEEDLES Size 1½ (2.5 mm): set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Stitch markers (m); cable needle (cn); stitch holder; tapestry needle.GAUGE 32 sts and 46 rnds = 4" in St st; 40 sts and 46 rnds = 4" in Broken Rib patt.

Woodcutters abound in mythology, but nowhere more famously than in the tale of Little Red Riding Hood. Whether the Big Bad Wolf succeeds in luring Little Red Riding Hood to

saves her (and generally her grand-

Woodcutter Socks



Key

knit

purl

pattern repeat

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k2, k1 from cn


sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k2, p1 from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p1, k2 from cn



Cable Chart A

12 sts

9

7

5

3

1

12 sts

Cable Chart B

9

7

5

3

1

4 st repeat4 st repeat

9

7

5

3

1

Broken RibBroken Rib

9

7

5

3

1


SockCuffCO 64 (72, 80) sts. Divide sts evenly over dpn, place marker (pm), and join in the rnd.

Right sock only:Next rnd P2, k2, p2, k4, [p2, k2] 10 (12, 14) times, p2, k4, [p2, k2] 2 times. Rep last rnd 2 more times. Next rnd P2, work Cable Chart A over 12 sts, [p2, k2] 8 (10, 12) times, p2, work Cable Chart B over 12 sts, p2, k2. Work in patt as established for 19 more rnds,

ending with Rnd 10 of charts. Next rnd P2, work Cable Chart A over 12 sts, work Broken Rib chart over 32 (40, 48) sts, p2, work Cable Chart B over 12 sts, p2, k2.Left sock only:Next rnd [P2, k2] 5 (6, 7) times, p2, k4, [p2, k2] 3 times, p2, k4, [p2, k2] 5 (6, 7) times. Rep last rnd 2 more times. Next rnd [P2, k2] 4 (5, 6) times, p2, work Cable Chart B over 12 sts, p2, k2, p2, work Cable Chart A over 12 sts, [p2, k2] 4 (5, 6) times. Work in patt as established for 19 more rnds, ending with Rnd 10 of charts. Next rnd Work Broken Rib chart over 16 (20, 24) sts, p2, work Cable Chart B over 12 sts, p2, k2, p2, work Cable Chart A over 12 sts, work Broken Rib chart over 16 (20, 24) sts.

Both socks:LegWork in patt as established for 59 more rnds, ending with Rnd 10 of charts.

Heel FlapPlace first 32 (36, 40) sts of rnd on holder for instep—32 (36, 40) sts rem for heel flap. Work back and forth as foll:

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Giant Slayer’s Vine Scarf

Andrea Jurgrau

scarf uses vivid color and a bold lace leaf motif, juxtaposed with a delicate, airy yarn and beads, to create a scarf that is both dramatic and classic.

FINISHED SIZE About 49" long and 6½ " wide after blocking. The scarf can be made longer with a second skein of yarn.YARN KnitPicks Aloft (75% su-per kid mohair, 25% silk; 246 yd [225 m]/25 g): #25217 tarragon, 1 skein. Yarn distributed by Crafts Americana.NEEDLES Size 4 (3.5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS 20g 8/0 seed beads in color to complement yarn (shown with Miyuki #457, Metallic Dark Bronze); steel crochet hook (see Notes); tapestry needle; T-pins or long flexible wires for blocking.GAUGE 20 sts and 26 rows = 4" in St st. Vine patt (without Garter st border) = 5¾ " wide.

Row 1 (WS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), p31 (35, 39).Row 2 (RS) *Sl 1 pwise with yarn in back (wyb), k1; rep from * to end.Rep last 2 rows 15 more times, then rep Row 1 once more. Turn Heel:Short-row 1 (RS) Sl 1 pwise wyb, k18 (20, 22), ssk, k1, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.Short-row 3 (RS) Sl 1 pwise wyb, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn.Short-row 4 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn.Rep last 2 rows 4 (5, 6) more times—20 (22, 24) heel sts rem.

Shape GussetResume working in the rnd. Set-up rnd Sl 1 pwise wyb, k19 (21, 23), pick up and knit 16 sts along edge of heel flap (1 st in each chain-edge st), work in patt as established across 32 (36, 40) instep sts, pm, pick up and knit 16 sts along edge of heel flap, k36 (38, 40)—84 (90, 96) sts; 52 (54, 56) sole sts and 32 (36, 40) instep sts. Pm for beg-of-rnd. Dec rnd Work instep sts in patt as established, sl m, ssk, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d. Next rnd Work instep sts in patt as established, sl m, knit to end. Rep last 2 rnds 9 (8, 7) more times—64 (72, 80) sts rem; 32 (36, 40) sts each for instep and sole.

FootWork even in patt as established until foot measures 2" less than desired finished length. Shape toe:Rnd 1 *K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k1, sl m; rep from * once more—4 sts dec’d.Rnd 2 Knit.Rep last 2 rnds 10 (11, 13) more times—20 (24, 24) sts rem. Break yarn, leaving a 12" tail.

FinishingWith tail threaded on a tapestry needle, use Kitchener st to graft sts tog. Weave in ends and block.

RACHEL COOPEY loves designing and knitting socks. Read about her constant quest for warm feet, her ever-growing sock yarn collection, and her knitting and spinning adventures on her blog, www.coopknit.blogspot.com.

Receiving a handful of magic beans in what seems at first a bad bargain, ordinary Jack begins a great adven-ture on a magic beanstalk, rising as far as the eye can see. In some legends, he blunders his way to redemption, while in others, his cunning saves the day. This clever

Receiving a handful of magic beans in what seems at first a bad bargain, ordinary Jack begins a great adven-ture on a magic beanstalk, rising as

cunning saves the day. This clever




NOTES - Vine pattern creates scallops on the long edges of the scarf. Block scarf to above measurements to fully open the pattern stitch. Finished width may be slightly less after blocking pins or wires are removed.

- Vine chart shows right-side rows only. Work wrong-side rows as given in instructions.

- The crochet hook is only used to place the beads. Choose a hook no larger than 0.75 mm that easily slips through the hole in your beads.

Stitch GuidePlace Bead: Knit stitch, insert crochet hook through hole in bead and slide bead up onto hook. Insert hook pwise into st just knitted (first st on right needle) and transfer to hook. Slide bead down hook and onto st. Place the beaded stitch on the left needle, adjust tension as you return stitch to the right needle.

35 sts*Only right-side rows are charted

Work wrong-side rows as in instructions

Vine

474543413937353331292725232119171513119753

*1

Key

knit

yo

k3tog

sssk

place bead (see Stitch Guide)

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ScarfUsing Long-tail method, loosely CO 35 sts. Knit 4 rows. Next row (RS) Work Row 1 of Vine chart. Next row and all WS rows K3, purl to last 3 sts, k3 (see Notes). Continue in patt to end of Vine chart. Repeat Vine chart 6 more times. Knit 4 rows.BO loosely as foll: K2, return 2 sts to left needle, k2tog, *return 1 st to left needle, k2tog; rep from * to end. Break yarn, leaving a 6" tail. With tail threaded on a tapestry needle, thread yarn end through last st and tighten to match tension of other BO sts.

FinishingWeave in ends. Block to finished dimensions. Use pins to hold scallops, or weave long flexible wires along each long edge and pin wire to shape. Allow to dry completely before remov-ing pins.

ANDREA JURGRAU has been knitting since she was a child and designing for the last decade. She gravitates toward skinny yarn and small needles and never misses an opportunity to add a few beads. She lives just north of New York City with her family and way too much yarn.

Into the Magic Forest Blanket

Melanie Berg

In the modern fairy tale Labyrinth, a shape-shifting owl bewitches a girl and her baby brother, spiriting them to a mysterious world whose riddles the girl must solve. The watchful eyes of the owls in this blanket will bespell your little sweetie to sleep. The blanket is knitted from the center out in bulky yarn, creating a plush and cozy fabric that’s machine washable. I-cord finishing makes an elegant edge.

FINISHED SIZE 43½ " in diameter.YARN Cascade Yarns 128 Superwash (100% Merino; 128 yd [117 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): #1926 doeskin, 6 skeins.NEEDLES Blanket—size 8 (5 mm): double-pointed (dpn), 30" and 50" circular (cir). I-cord BO—size 10 (6 mm). Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); cable needle (cn); 40 buttons (9 mm); matching thread; sewing needle; tapestry needle.GAUGE 14 sts and 22 rows = 4" in St st on smaller needle after blocking.


NOTES - The blanket is worked in the round from the center outward. Begin the blanket on double-pointed needles, but as the stitch count grows, switch to shorter circular needle and later to longer circular needle.

- Blanket must be blocked flat to final shape.



- Buttons are a choking hazard and should be left off for children under age 3.

BlanketUsing smaller dpn and the Long-tail method, CO 8 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd.Rnd 1 Knit.Rnd 2 *K1f&b; rep from * to end—16 sts.Rnd 3 Knit.Rnd 4 *K1f&b; rep from * to end—32 sts.Rnds 5–9 Knit.Rnd 10 *K1f&b; rep from * to end—64 sts.Rnds 11–21 Knit.Rnd 22 *K1, k1f&b; rep from * to end—96 sts.Rnds 23–32 Knit.Rnd 33 *K2, k1f&b; rep from * to end—128 sts.Rnds 34–44 Knit.Rnd 45 *K1, k1f&b; rep from * to end—192 sts.Rnds 46–66 Knit.Rnd 67 *K2, k1f&b; rep from * to end—256 sts.Rnds 68–90 Knit.Rnd 91 *K3, k1f&b; rep from * to end—320 sts.Rnds 92–100 Knit.Work Rnds 1–19 of Owl chart. Next rnd *K3, k1f&b; rep from * to end—400 sts. Using the cable method, CO 4 sts. Change to larger needles. Using the 4-st I-cord method, BO all sts.

FinishingSew I-cord CO and BO sts tog. Weave in ends. With sewing needle and thread, sew buttons over purl sts as owl eyes. Wash and block to final shape.

In real life, MELANIE BERG is an IT specialist, mother of three, and semi-successful housewife. In her secret, second life, she designs knitwear. She lives with her husband and three children in Bonn, Germany. Visit her blog at www.mairlynd.wordpress.com.

Owl

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

16 st repeat

Key

knit

purl

pattern repeat



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Hansel & Gretel Socks

Rachel Coopey

Two ordinary children, led into the dark forest and left there by their malicious parents, went on an unwilling adventure. Although their carelessness and appetites initially lead them into danger, they are saved by cleverness, bravery, and loyalty. These fun fraternal socks, in candy colors with the flavor of the witch’s candy house, will keep you warm on your own adventures, woodsy or urban.

FINISHED SIZE 7 (7¾ , 8½ )" foot circumference, foot length is adjustable, will stretch to fit foot circumference 8 (9, 10)", leg length 6".YARN Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock (80% Merino, 20% nylon; 430 yd [393 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): cummerbund (red), 1 skein; cool (blue), 1 skein.NEEDLES Size 1½ (2.5 mm): set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Stitch holder or scrap yarn; tapestry needle.GAUGE 34 sts and 44 rnds = 4" in St st.


NOTES - Sock 1 uses cool as color A and cummerbund as color B.

- Sock 2 uses cummerbund as color A and cool as color B.

SocksCuffWith A, CO 60 (66, 72) sts. Divide sts evenly over dpn and join in the rnd.Next rnd *K1tbl, p1; rep from * to end. Cont in rib patt as established for 19 more rnds.

LegWork Rnds 1–26 of Leg chart 2 times. Break A and cont with B only.

Heel flapSock 2 only:K30 (33, 36).Both socks:Heel is worked back and forth in rows over last 30 (33, 36) heel sts. Place rem 30 (33, 36) sts on holder for instep.Row 1 (WS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), p29 (32, 35).Row 2 (RS) *Sl 1 pwise with yarn in back (wyb), k1; rep from * to last 0 (1, 0) st, k0 (1, 0).Rep last 2 rows 15 more times, then

Leg

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21

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17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

6 st repeat6 st repeat

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21

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11

9

7

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Leg Key

with A, knit

with B, knit

pattern repeat

with A, knit

with B, knit

pattern repeat



work Row 1 once more. Turn heel:Short-row 1 (RS) Sl 1 pwise wyb, k16 (17, 20), ssk, k1, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p5 (4, 7), p2tog, p1, turn.Short-row 3 (RS) Sl 1 pwise, wyb, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn.Short-row 4 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn.Rep last 2 short-rows 4 (5, 5) more times, ending with a WS row—18 (19, 22) heel sts rem.

Shape GussetRejoin for working in the rnd as foll:Set-up rnd Sl 1 pwise wyb, k17 (18, 21), pick up and knit 16 sts along edge of heel flap (1 st in each chain-edge st), k30 (33, 36) instep sts, pick up and knit 16 sts along edge of heel flap, k34 (35, 38)—80 (84, 90) sts.Rnd beg at instep.Dec rnd Knit across instep sts, ssk, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d.Next rnd Knit.Rep last 2 rnds 9 (8, 8) more times—60 (66, 72) sts rem; 30 (33, 36) sts each for instep and sole.

FootKnit even until foot measures 2" less than desired finished length.

ToeDec rnd K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts of instep, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to last 3 sts of sole, k2tog, k1—4 sts dec’d.Next rnd Knit.Rep last 2 rnds 9 (10, 11) more times—20 (22, 24) sts rem. Break yarn, leaving a 12" tail.

FinishingWith tail threaded on a tapestry needle, graft sts using Kitchener st. Weave in ends and block.

RACHEL COOPEY loves designing and knitting socks. Read about her constant quest for warm feet, her ever-growing sock yarn collection, and her knitting and spinning adventures on her blog, www.coopknit.blogspot.com.

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Take a look at knitting through the eyes of Downton Abbey

Transport yourself to Downton Abbey! This 144-page special issue dives into the true history that surrounds the fi ctional setting of the hit television show, and includes 27 projects inspired by the lavish sets and styling including knitted lace cardigans, socks, and more.

Due to copyright restrictions this magazine is only available for purchase in the United States. This magazine is unoffi cial and unauthorized. It is not authorized, approved, licensed, or endorsed by Carnival Film & Television Ltd., it’s writers or producers, or any of its licensees.

Available at your local yarn shop or at InterweaveStore.com

knitted lace cardigans, socks, and more.

Due to copyright restrictions this magazine is only available for purchase in the United States. This magazine is unoffi cial and unauthorized. It is not authorized, approved, licensed,

Garments you’ll wear over and overKnit a collection of beautiful, wearable projects with New American Knits inspired by sportswear lines and New England colors.

New American Knits features 20+ everyday pieces designed by Amy Christoffers. Her garments have a casual elegance you’ll swoon over with classic silhouettes, soft textures, and clean lines. New American Knits has the allure for those who enjoy a fun knitting project and those who crave a gorgeous fi nished piece.

Amy Christoffers160 Pages, $24.99ISBN 13: 9781620330999

Order online at InterweaveStore.com.

Amy Christoffers160 Pages, $24.99ISBN 13: 9781620330999

Order online at InterweaveStore.com.

EK_045.indd 45 6/26/14 1:17 PM


Eglantine SleevesDesigned by Lynne Vogel. PAGE 52. YARN: SweetGeorgia CashLuxe Fine.

SinisterA spine-tingling tale, a scaly creature, a jealous interloper—the stuff of sleepless nights.

EK_046-051_G_Sinister.indd 46 6/26/14 11:38 AM


White Queen StoleDesigned by Susanna IC. PAGE 54.

YARN: Miss Babs Alpacacita.



Maleficent’s CloakDesigned by Vicki Square. PAGE 56. YARN: Classic Elite Liberty Wool.



Colubrida WrapDesigned by Angela Hahn. PAGE 60. YARN: The Fibre Company Road to China, distributed by Kelbourne Woolens.



Hervor’s UndermittensDesigned by Jen Hagan. PAGE 63. YARN: Rowan Felted Tweed DK, distributed by Westminster Fibers.


Riddles with Dragons ShawlDesigned by Kate Poe. PAGE 66. YARN: Anzula Nebula.




Eglantine SleevesLynne Vogel

When Briar Rose pricked her finger on a spindle and fell into a one-hundred-year sleep, her parents dressed her in her finest gown. Its long sleeves were festooned with spiraling vines and leaves of her namesake, also known as the Eglantine Rose. Her fairy godmother summoned a fortress of magical sweetbriars to grow around her castle until she should awaken to her true prince’s kiss. Vines are potent symbols in such tales as Sleeping Beauty, suggesting strength, protec-tion, the passage of time, and the obstinacy of fate.

FINISHED SIZES 8½ (10, 11¾ )" upper arm circumference; 5¾ (6¾ , 8)" wrist circumference; 18" long. Sleeves shown measure 8½ " upper arm circumference.YARN SweetGeorgia CashLuxe Fine (70% superwash merino, 20% cashmere, 10% nylon; 400 yd [366 m]/4 oz [115 g]): basil, 1 (2, 2) skein(s).NEEDLES Size 2 (2.75 mm): double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); cable needle (cn); size C/2 (2.75 mm) crochet hook; tapestry needle.GAUGE 35 sts and 36 rows = 4" in biasing cable patt.


NOTES - The traveling cables on these sleeves are created by shifting one stitch every other round between the cuff and Rose Leaf Lace pattern.

- While working Charts A–D on the left sleeve, move the beginning of the round one stitch to the left every other round as follows: At the beginning of every odd-numbered round, purl the first stitch with the last needle (this stitch will now be the last stitch of the round), then work in pattern to the end of the round.

- While working Charts A–D on the right sleeve, move the beginning of the round one stitch to the right every other round as follows: On even-numbered rounds, work in pat-tern to the last stitch of the round, slip this stitch to the first needle (this stitch will now be the first stitch of the next round), then work the next round.

- Arrange stitches on the other needles while shifting stitches to keep the stitches evenly divided over the needles.

Stitch GuidePicot: With crochet hook, sc into next st, do not drop from needle, ch2, sl st into first st and drop from needle.

Left SleeveCO 65 (78, 91) sts. Divide sts on dpn in multiples of 13. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd.

Set-up rnd for Left Cuff [P2, k2, p1, k2, p3, k1, p2] 5 (6, 7) times. Work Rnds 1–4 of Left Cuff chart 2 times, then work Rnds 1–2 once more.Note: Shift sts at beg of every odd-numbered rnd as foll: Remove m, purl first st with last needle, pm for new beg of rnd, work in patt to end of rnd.Set-up rnd for Chart A [P2, k5, p6] 5 (6, 7) times. Moving first st at beg of odd-numbered rnds (see Notes), work Rnds 1–6 of Left Chart A 2 times, then work Rnds 1–5 once more.Set-up rnd for Chart B [P2, k5, p3, k1, p2] 5 (6, 7) times. Work Rnds 1–6 of Left Chart B 17 times. Work Rnds 1–6 of Left Chart C once—60 (72, 84) sts rem. Note: Do not shift sts on last rnd of Left Chart D. Work Rnds 1–6 of Left Chart D 3 times, then work Rnds 7–9—50 (60, 70) sts rem. Next rnd Remove m, sl first st to end of last dpn, pm for new beg of rnd, work Rose Leaf Lace chart to end. Note: Do not shift sts while working Rose Leaf Lace chart. Work in patt through Rnd 25 of chart. With crochet hook, BO all sts as foll: *[Picot (see Stitch Guide), BO 1 st] 4 times, ch1, picot, ch1, [BO 1 st, picot] 4 times, BO 1 st; rep from * 4 (5, 6) more times.

Right SleeveCO 65 (78, 91) sts. Divide sts on dpn in multiples of 13. Pm and join in the rnd.Set-up rnd for Right Cuff [P2, k1, p3, k2, p1, k2, p2] 5 (6, 7) times. Work Rnds 1–4 of Right Cuff chart 2 times, then work Rnds 1–2 once more. Note: Shift

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MP

Key

knit

purl

yo

k2tog

ssk

M1 pwise

sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso

p3tog

[k1, yo, k1] into same st

no stitch

pattern repeat


sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, p1, k1 from cn





Left Cuff

13 st repeat

3

1

Right Cuff

13 st repeat

3

1

Left Chart C

13 to 12 st repeat

1

3

5

MP

MP

MP

Left Chart A

All charts: see instructions

13 st repeat

1

3

5

MP

MP

MP

Left Chart B

13 st repeat

1

3

5

Left Chart D

12 to 10 st repeat

work 3 times

9

7

1

3

5

Right Chart C

13 to 12 st repeat

1

3

5

MP

MP

MP

Right Chart A

13 st repeat

1

3

5

MP

MP

MP

Right Chart B

13 st repeat

1

3

5

Right Chart D

12 to 10 st repeat

work 3 times

9

7

1

3

5

sts at end of every even-numbered rnd as foll: Work in patt to last st, do not work last st, sl last st to beg of first dpn, pm for new beg of rnd, work next rnd in patt, remove old rnd m. Set-up rnd for Chart A [P6, k5, p2] 5 (6, 7) times. Moving last st at end of even-numbered rnds (see Notes), work Rnds 1–6 of Right Chart A 2 times, then work Rnds 1–5 once more. Set-up rnd for Chart B [P1, k1, p3, k5, p3] 4 (5, 6) times, p1, k1, p3, k5, p2, do not work last st, sl last st to beg of first dpn, pm for new beg-of-rnd, work next rnd in patt, remove old rnd m. Work Rnds 1–6 of Right Chart B 17 times. Work Rnds 1–6 of Right Chart C once—60 (72, 84) sts rem. Note: Do not shift sts on Rnd 8 of Right Chart D. Work Rnds 1–6 of Right Chart D 3 times, then

work Rnds 7–9—50 (60, 70) sts rem. Next rnd Remove m, k1, p2, pm for new beg of rnd, work Rose Leaf Lace chart to end. Complete as for Left sleeve.

FinishingWeave in ends. Block to measurements.

LYNNE VOGEL lives a fairy-tale life on the Hogwartian style campus of a 150-year-old university in southern middle Tennessee. A lifelong knitter and lover of nature and literature (es-pecially imaginary), she transforms her environment into knitting. She blogs at www.handspuncentral.blogspot.com.

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EK_052-068_Sinister.indd 53 6/30/14 2:21 PM


White Queen StoleSusanna IC

This shawl is inspired by the ethereal artwork created by frost and snow during winter and named for Jadis, the icy queen who ruled C. S. Lewis’s Narnia. The body of the wrap is a fairly simple geometric lace, which begins as nearly solid fabric in the center and becomes more open toward the borders as sparkly beads trickle in like ice shimmering in sunlight. The bottom edges feature more elaborate lace and numerous beads. The shawl is worked seam-lessly from a provisional cast-on to both ends, which allows its size to be easily customized.

FINISHED SIZE About 19" wide and 80" long.YARN Miss Babs Alpacacita (70% baby alpaca, 30% cultivated silk; 800 yd [732 m]/41⁄3 oz [122 g]): naked, 1 skein.NEEDLES Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS 550 glass seed beads size 8/0 (3.1 mm); crochet hook (small enough to fit through holes of beads); waste yarn; tapestry needle; blocking pins; size 9 (5.5 mm) needle for BO.GAUGE 19 sts and 24 rows = 4" in St st on smaller needles, blocked.


NOTES - The shawl begins with a provisional cast-on at the top of one of the deep borders, which is worked first. 12 st repeat

5

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Snow�akesSnowflakes

12 st repeat

5

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Key


yo

k1tbl

k2tog

k on RS; p on WS

yo

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k2tog

ssk

s2kp2 (see Stitch Guide)


pattern repeat

k on RS; p on WS

yo

k1tbl

k2tog

ssk



pattern repeat

k on RS; p on WS

yo

k1tbl

k2tog

ssk



pattern repeat

k on RS; p on WS

yo

k1tbl

k2tog

ssk



pattern repeat 24 st repeat

16316115915715515315114914714514314113913713513313112912712512312111911711511311110910710510310199979593918987858381797775737169676563615957555351494745434139373533312927252321191715131197531

24 st repeat

163161159157155153151149147145143141139137135133131129127125123121119117115113111109107105103101

999795939189878583817977757371696765636159575553514947454341393735333129272523211917151311

97531

IciclesIcicles

Live stitches are then picked up from the cast-on, and the center of the shawl is worked next (this is where the length of the piece can be customized), followed by the second border.

- Icicles chart shows odd-numbered right-side rows only; purl all wrong-side rows.

Stitch GuideS2kp2: Sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass 2 sl sts over—2 sts dec’d.

Place Bead: Insert crochet hook through hole in bead and slide bead onto hook, sl next st onto crochet hook and slide bead down onto st, sl st back to left-hand needle and knit it.

Snow Stitch:Row 1 (RS) K2tog, yo, knit to last 2 sts, yo, ssk.Row 2 Purl.Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

ssk



pattern repeat

k on RS; p on WS

yo

k1tbl

k2tog

ssk



pattern repeat

k on RS; p on WS

yo

k1tbl

k2tog

ssk



pattern repeatEK_052-068_Sinister.indd 55 6/26/14 11:52 AM


Maleficent’s CloakVick i Square

Maleficent, the evil villain in Sleeping Beauty, is horrifyingly beautiful, in the way evil presents its illusion until it is unmasked. Her cloak is a powerful part of her presence, sweeping and undulating around her. With a dropped-stitch wave pattern, this cloak emulates that sinister quality. Knitted from wrist to neck for each side, the wrap includes garter-stitch ridges for a series of flattering vertical lines. The ribbed double collar sweeps up and back in an elegant fold around the V-neck. With elements of fantasy and everyday life, this piece com-bines the spectacular with the practical to create a beautiful garment.

FINISHED SIZE About 54" wide from cuff to cuff and 44" long at center back.YARN Classic Elite Liberty Wool (100% washable wool; 122 yd [112 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): # 7827 wine, 28 skeins; # 7813 ebony, 1 skein.NEEDLES Cloak—size 7 (4.5 mm): 24" circular (cir). Collar—size 5 (3.75 mm): 24" cir. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the cor-rect gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); waste yarn; spare needle, size 7 (4.5 mm) or smaller; tapestry needle.GAUGE 20 sts and 26 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle before blocking; 18 sts and 26 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle after blocking.


NOTES - The cloak is knit sideways from the cuff toward the center, divided for the front opening and grafted together in the center back.

- To form a smooth transition with bind offs, slip the first stitch with

Ice Crystals Stitch:Row 1 (RS) [K2tog, yo] 2 times, k3, *k6, yo, s2kp2, yo, k3; rep from * to last 10 sts, k6, [yo, ssk] 2 times.Row 2: Purl.

StoleUsing a provisional method and smaller needle, CO 89 sts. With project yarn, purl 1 WS row.

First BorderWork Rows 1–6 of Snowflakes chart 3 times, then work Rows 1–163 of Icicles chart once (see Notes). With larger needle, BO all sts on next WS row (Row 164) as foll: *P2tog, p1, sl 2 sts from right needle to left needle; rep from * to end.

Center SectionRemove waste yarn from provisional CO and place 89 sts onto smaller needle. With RS facing, join yarn. Work Rows 1 and 2 of Snow st (see Stitch Guide) 5 times, then work Rows 1 and 2 of Ice Crystals st (see Stitch Guide) once. *Work Rows 1 and 2 of Snow st 9 times, then work Rows 1 and 2 of Ice Crystals st once. Rep from * once more. Work Rows 1 and 2 of Snow st 5 times.

Second BorderWork second border as for first border.

FinishingWeave in ends. Block piece to mea-surements pulling out points along the lace borders. When completely dry, remove pins and trim yarn tails.

After nine years in Europe, SUSANNA IC now lives in San Antonio, Texas, with her husband, two sons, one guinea pig, and countless balls of yarn. She has an extensive background in studio arts and art history, which inspires her knitting. Her projects and designs can be found at www.artqualia.com.

surements pulling out points along the

now lives in San Antonio, Texas, with her husband,

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yarn in front, then continue to work stitches in pattern as usual.

- Use the cable method to cast on stitches within the work.

- Stitch counts do not include yarnovers.

- A circular needle is used to accom-modate the large number of stitches.

CloakRight Front and BackWith MC, larger needle, and using the Long-tail method, CO 36 sts, place marker (pm), CO 114 sts, pm for center, CO 114 sts, pm, CO 36 sts—300 sts total. Do not join.Note: Slip center m when you come to it until dividing for front and back.

Panel 1Rows 1–2 Knit.Row 3 (RS) K6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * 2 more times, sl m, knit to last m, sl m, k6, **yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from ** 2 more times.Row 4 (WS) Knit to first m, dropping all yo sts, purl to last m, knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 5 Knit.Row 6 BO 4 sts, knit to m, purl to last m, knit to end.Row 7 BO 4 sts (1 st rem on right needle after BO), k6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * once more, pm, k5, remove m, knit to last m, remove m, k5, pm, k6, **yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from ** once more, k7.Row 8 BO 6 sts, knit to m, dropping all yo sts, purl to last m, knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 9 BO 6 sts, knit to end.Row 10 Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), knit to m, purl to last m, knit to end.Row 11 Sl 1 pwise wyf, k5, yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6, pm, k5, remove m, knit to last m, remove m, k5, pm, k6, yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6.Row 12 BO 4 sts, knit to m, dropping all yo sts, purl to last m, knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 13 BO 4 sts, knit to end.Row 14 Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to m, purl

to last m, knit to end.Row 15 Sl 1 pwise wyf, k6, pm, k5, remove m, knit to last m, remove m, k5, pm, knit to end.Row 16 BO 6 sts, knit to m, purl to last m, knit to end.Row 17 BO 6 sts, knit to end.Row 18 K1, remove m, purl to last m, remove m, k1—260 sts rem.

Panel 2Next row (RS) CO 36 sts (see Notes), k36 CO sts, pm, knit to end—296 sts.Next row (WS) CO 36 sts, k36 CO sts, pm, knit to end—332 sts.Work Rows 1–18 of Panel 1 once—292 sts rem.

Panel 3Next row (RS) CO 11 sts, k36, pm, knit to end—303 sts.Next row (WS) CO 11 sts, k36, pm, knit to end—314 sts. Work Rows 1–10 of Panel 1 once—294 sts rem. Next row (RS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to 5 sts before m, pm, k5, remove m, knit to last m, remove m, k5, pm, knit to end. Next row (WS) BO 4 sts, knit to m, purl to last m, knit to end—290 sts rem. Next row BO 4 sts, knit to end—286 sts rem. Next row Knit to end, removing end m.

Panel 4Next row (RS) CO 36 sts, k36, pm, knit to end—322 sts. Next row (WS) CO 36 sts, k36, pm, knit to end—358 sts. Work Rows 1–14 of Panel 1 once.Next row (RS) BO 4 sts, k2, yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k1, remove m, k5, pm, knit to 5 sts before last m, pm, k5, remove m, k1, yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, knit to end. Next row (WS) BO 4 sts, knit to m, dropping all yo sts, purl to last m, knit to end, dropping all yo sts. Next row Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to end.

Next row Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to m, purl to last m, knit to end. Next row BO 6 sts, knit to end. Next row BO 6 sts, knit to m, remove m, purl to last m, remove m, knit to end—310 sts rem.

Panel 5Next row (RS) CO 14 sts, k36, pm, knit to end—324 sts. Next row (WS) CO 14 sts, k36, pm, knit to end—338 sts. Work Rows 1–18 of Panel 1 once—298 sts rem.

Panel 6Next row (RS) CO 16 sts, k36, pm, knit to end—314 sts. Next row (WS) CO 16 sts, k36, pm, knit to end—330 sts. Work as for Panel 3—302 sts rem.




k6; rep from * 2 more times, sl m, knit to end.Row 4 (WS) Purl to m, knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 5 Knit.Row 6 Purl to m, knit to end.Row 7 BO 4 sts (1 st rem on right needle after BO), k6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * once more, pm, k5, remove m, knit to end—191 sts rem.

Row 12 Purl to m, knit to end.Row 13 BO 4 sts, knit to end—159 sts rem.Row 14 Knit to end, removing m.

Panel 11Next row (RS) CO 36 sts, k36, pm, knit to end—195 sts. Next row (WS) Purl to m, knit to end.Rows 1 and 2 Knit.Row 3 (RS) K6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo,

Panel 8Next row (RS) CO 30 sts, k36, pm, knit to end—332 sts. Next row (WS) CO 30 sts, k36, pm, knit to end—362 sts. Work as for Panel 4—314 sts rem.


Divide for right front and back neck:Next row (RS) CO 20 sts, k187 to center m, remove m and place 187 sts just worked on waste yarn for right front, knit to end—167 rem for back.

Back:Knit 4 rows. Break yarn, leaving a 4-yd length if possible for finishing. Place these 167 sts on hold on same size or smaller needle to graft later.

Left Front and BackWork as for Right Front and Back through Panel 9—334 sts rem.

Divide for left front and back neck Next row (RS) CO 6 sts, k36, pm, knit to center m, remove m, place next 167 sts on waste yarn for left front—173 sts rem for back.

BackPanel 10Knit 1 WS row.Rows 1–2 Knit.Row 3 (RS) K6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * 2 more times, sl m, knit to end.Row 4 (WS) Purl to m, knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 5 Knit.Row 6 Purl to m, knit to end.Row 7 BO 4 sts (1 st rem on right needle after BO), k6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * once more, pm, k5, remove m, knit to end—169 sts rem.Row 8 Purl to m, knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 9 BO 6 sts, knit to end—163 sts rem.Row 10 Purl to m, knit to end.Row 11 Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to 5 sts before m, pm, k5, remove m, knit to end.

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2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * 4 more times, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—171 sts rem.Row 12 Knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 13 BO 4 sts, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—166 sts rem.Row 14 Knit.Row 15 Sl 1 pwise wyf, k6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * 3 more times, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—165 sts rem.Row 16 Knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 17 BO 6 sts, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—158 sts rem.Row 18 Knit.Row 19 Sl 1 pwise wyf, k5, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * 2 more times, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—157 sts.Row 20 Knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 21 BO 4 sts, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—152 sts rem.Row 22 Knit.Row 23 Sl 1 pwise wyf, k6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * once more, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—151 sts rem.Row 24 Knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 25 BO 6 sts, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—144 sts rem.Row 26 Knit.Row 27 Sl 1 pwise wyf, k5, yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—143 sts rem.Row 28 Knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 29 BO 4 sts, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—138 sts rem.Row 30 Knit.Row 31 BO 6 sts, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—131 sts rem. Knit 2 rows. BO all sts kwise.

Left Front ExtensionReturn 167 held left front sts to needle and with RS facing, join yarn at neck edge. Knit 1 RS row.Next row (WS) CO 20 sts, knit to end—187 sts.Row 1 (RS) K1, ssk, knit to end—186 sts rem.Row 2 K76, pm, knit to end.Row 3 K1, ssk, knit to m, k6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * 6 more times—185 sts rem.Row 4 Knit to end, dropping all yo sts.

Row 8 Purl to m, knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 9 BO 6 sts, knit to end—185 sts rem.Row 10 Purl to m, knit to end.Row 11 Sl 1 pwise wyf, k5, yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6, pm, k5, remove m, knit to end.Row 12 Purl to m, knit to end, drop-ping all yo sts.Row 13 BO 4 sts, knit to end—181 sts rem.Row 14 Purl to m, knit to end.Row 15 BO 4 sts (1 st rem on right needle after BO), k2, yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k1, remove m, k5, pm, knit to end—177 sts rem.Row 16 (WS) Purl to m, knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 17 Knit.Row 18 Purl to m, knit to end.Row 19 BO 10 sts, knit to end—167 sts rem.Row 20 Purl to m, remove m, knit to end.Break yarn, leaving a 4-yd length tail if you were unable to leave that much from the right back. Thread 4-yd long tail onto a tapestry needle. Use Kitch-ener st to graft left back to right back, working from lower edge of garment toward back neck.

Right Front ExtensionReturn 187 held right front sts to needle and with WS facing, join yarn at neck edge. Next row (WS) Knit.Row 1 (RS) Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—186 sts rem.Row 2 (WS) Knit.Row 3 K6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * 6 more times, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—185 sts rem.Row 4 Knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 5 Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—184 sts rem.Row 6 Knit.Row 7 BO 4 sts, k6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * 5 more times, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—179 sts rem.Row 8 Knit to end, dropping all yo sts.Row 9 BO 6 sts, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—172 sts rem.Row 10 Knit.Row 11 Sl 1 pwise wyf, k5, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo]

Row 5 K1, ssk, knit to end—184 sts rem.Row 6 BO 4 sts, knit to end—180 sts rem.Row 7 K1, ssk, knit to m, remove m, k5, pm, k6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * 5 more times, k1—179 sts rem.Row 8 BO 6 sts, knit to end, dropping all yo sts—173 sts rem.Row 9 K1, ssk, knit to end—172 sts rem.Row 10 Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to end.Row 11 K1, ssk, knit to m, remove m, k5, pm, k6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * 4 more times—171 sts rem.Row 12 BO 4 sts, knit to end, dropping all yo sts—167 sts rem.Row 13 K1, ssk, knit to end—166 sts rem.Row 14 Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to end.Row 15 K1, ssk, knit to m, remove m, k5, pm, k6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * 3 more times, k1—165 sts rem.Row 16 BO 6 sts, knit to end, dropping all yo sts—159 sts rem.Row 17 K1, ssk, knit to end—158 sts rem.Row 18 Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to end.Row 19 K1, ssk, knit to m, remove m, k5, pm, k6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * 2 more times—157 sts rem.Row 20 BO 4 sts, knit to end, dropping all yo sts—153 sts rem.Row 21 K1, ssk, knit to end—152 sts rem.Row 22 Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to end.Row 23 K1, ssk, knit to m, remove m, k5, pm, k6, *yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * once more, k1—151 sts rem.Row 24 BO 6 sts, knit to end, dropping all yo sts—145 sts rem.Row 25 K1, ssk, knit to end—144 sts rem.Row 26 Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to end.Row 27 K1, ssk, knit to m, remove m, k5, pm, k6, yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6—143 sts rem.Row 28 BO 4 sts, knit to end, dropping all yo sts—139 sts rem.Row 29 K1, ssk, knit to end—138 sts rem.Row 30 Sl 1 pwise wyf, knit to end.Row 31 K1, ssk, knit to end—137 sts rem.



Colubrida WrapAngela Hahn

Snakes abound in mythology, from the White Snake of the Brothers Grimm to Scandinavian, Asian, and

Australian stories. Sometimes sinister, sometimes helpful, and sometimes princes in disguise, serpents often signify transforma-tion, power, and triumph over fear. This crescent-shaped wrap is worked from end to end and combines a serpentine lace border with a garter-stitch panel of graduated width. It is tapered at head and tail with increases and decreases worked into the lace pattern; the head of the snake is visible at one end and the tail at the other. Imagine the serpent in this design as a guardian, wrapped protectively around the wearer.

Row 32 BO 6 sts, knit to end—131 sts rem. Knit 1 row. BO all sts kwise.

FinishingWeave in ends. Wet-block garment to width measurement, length measure-ment is approximate, as each point is a different length. Pin points in place. Let dry completely.

Outer CollarWith MC, smaller needle, RS fac-ing, and beg at right front neck, 1 st from edge, pick up and knit 30 sts along right front neck, 36 sts along back neck, and 30 sts along left front neck—96 sts. Do not join. Knit 1 WS row.Row 1 (RS) Sl 1 kwise with yarn in back (wyb), *k2, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.Row 2 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.Rep Rows 1 and 2 until collar mea-sures 4½" from pick-up row, ending with WS row. BO all sts in patt.

Inner CollarWith CC, smaller needle, RS facing, and beg on inside of neck in the same place as for outer collar, pick up and knit 30 sts along right front neck, 36 sts along back neck, and 30 sts along left front neck—96 sts. Do not join.Row 1 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.Row 2 (RS) Sl 1 kwise wyb, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.Rep Rows 1 and 2 until collar mea-sures 5½", ending with WS row. BO all sts in patt. Weave in ends. Steam or spritz with water only the pick-up seam, not the ribbing. Let dry completely.

VICKI SQUARE combines a passion for knitting, a love of historic costume, and a vision for con-temporary design into making wearable knits for today. She is the author of several books, includ-ing the best-selling The Knitter’s Companion and Light and Layered Knits (Interweave).

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FINISHED SIZE 13" deep and 62" wide.YARN The Fibre Company Road to China (65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% cashmere, 10% camel; 69 yd [63 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #881 peridot, 7 skeins. Yarn distributed by Kelbourne Woolens.NEEDLES Size 8 (5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.GAUGE 18 sts and 27 rows = 4" in garter st; 27 sts of Main chart = 5" wide.


NOTE - This wrap is worked sideways from the head to the tail.

WrapHeadCO 3 sts. Work WS Set-up row of Head chart, then work Rows 1–34 of chart—28 sts total; 27 sts for lace panel and 1 st for garter-st panel.

BodyNext row (RS) Work Main chart over 27 sts, place marker (pm), M1L,

k1—29 sts. Next row (WS) Knit to m, sl m, work Main chart over 27 sts. Work 2 rows even. Inc row Work Main chart to m, sl m, M1L, knit to end—1 st inc’d. Working new sts in garter st, rep Inc row every 4th row 29 more times, then every 8th row 4 times—63 sts; 36 sts in garter-st panel and 27 sts in lace patt. Work 19 rows even in patt. Dec row (RS) Work Main chart to m, sl m, k2tog, knit to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every 8th row 3 times, then every 4th row 30 times—29 sts rem; 2 sts in garter-st panel and 27 sts in lace patt. Work 3 rows even, ending with Row 32 of Main chart.



Tail

28 sts dec’d to 3 sts

1

3

5

7

9

13

17

23

19

25

29

11

15

21

27

31

33

ANGELA HAHN has a special fondness for Jormungand, the Midgard Serpent: according to Norse mythology, he is long enough to surround the Earth and grasp his own tail. Angela was a small animal veterinarian for many years and included among her patients a few snakes. More of her patterns can be found on her website, www.knititude.com.

Main

27 sts

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Head

3 inc’d to 28 sts

1

3

5

7

9

13

17

23

19

25

29

11

15

21

27

31

33

Set-up

Key



yo

k1tbl on RS, p1tbl on WS

k1tbl on WS

k into the back of the st 1 row below st on right-hand needle

k2tog

ssk

k3tog

sssk

sl 1 st pwise, sl 1 st as if to p1tbl, transfer both sts to left needle, k2tog

k2tog tbl on RS; p2tog tbl on WS

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, [k1tbl] 2 times, [p1, k1tbl] from cnsl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k1tbl, p1, [k1tbl] 2 times from cn

TailWork Rows 1–34 of Tail chart (remove m)—3 sts rem. Next row (RS) Sl 1 as if to p1tbl, k2tog, psso—1 st rem. Break yarn and thread through rem st.

FinishingWeave in ends and block to measure-ments, stretching lace panel to open up patt (especially eyelets, which form snake eyes).

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Hervor’s Undermittens

Jen Hagan

In Norse mythology, Hervor is the daughter of Angantyr, one of twelve sons of the “berserker” Arngrim, who is famous for his magical sword Tyrfing. Angantyr died before Hervor was born, and she grew up a slave. Upon discovering her heritage, however, she dressed as a man, eventually claiming Tyrfing for her own and fighting battles with the mighty weapon. She finally tired of the warring life, married, and bore children. These heroic mittens are graced with a scalloped edge and feature four types of colorwork: two striping patterns, slipped stitches, corrugated rib cables, and a chevron design on the palm.

FINISHED SIZE 5¼ (7, 8½ )" hand circumference and 10 (15, 16½ )" long (length is adjustable). Mittens shown measure 7".YARN Rowan Felted Tweed DK (50% wool, 25% alpaca, 25% viscose; 191 yd [175 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #154 ginger (MC), 1 skein; #181 mineral (CC), 1 skein.Yarn distributed by Westminster FibersNEEDLES Size 4 (3.5 mm): two 16" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); cable needle; stitch holder; tapestry needle.GAUGE 30 sts and 28 rnds = 4" in colorwork patt.


NOTES - The cuff edging is worked back and forth, then the remainder of the mit-ten is worked in the round.

- Carry unused yarn in each round up the seam by twisting it over the one being used.

- Do not carry an unused color for more than three stitches; twist the colors frequently on the wrong side to prevent long floats.

- Length may be adjusted by changing the number of pattern repeats at the wrist and at the hand section.

Stitch GuideLong Loop Edging: (multiple of 11 sts)Row 1 (RS) Purl.Row 2 K1, *k1, sl st from right needle to left needle, pull next 8 sts over this st one at a time, [yo] 2 times, knit sl st again, k2; rep from * to last 10 sts, k1, sl st from right needle to left needle, pull next 8 sts over this st one at a time, [yo] 2 times, knit sl st again, k1.Row 3 *P2tog, [k1, k1tbl] 2 times in double yo, p1; rep from * to end.Row 4 Knit.

Birdseye Stitch: (even number of sts)Rnd 1 With CC, *sl 1 pwise with yarn in back (wyb), k1, rep from * to end.




Rnd 2 With CC, knit.Rnd 3 With MC, *k1, sl 1 pwise wyb; rep from * to end.Rnd 4 With MC, knit.Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt.

MittensCuffWith MC and one cir needle, CO 66 (88, 110) sts. Do not join. Work Rows

1–4 of Long Loop Edging (see Stitch Guide) once—36 (48, 60) sts rem. Divide sts as foll: 19 (25, 31) sts on Needle 1 for back of hand and 17 (23, 29) sts on Needle 2 for palm—36 (48, 60) sts total. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Join CC. With CC, knit 1 rnd, then purl 1 rnd. With MC, knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd, then knit 1 rnd. Work Rnds 1–4 of Birdseye st (see

Stitch Guide) 2 (4, 4) times. With MC, knit 1 rnd, then purl 1 rnd. With CC, knit 1 rnd, then purl 1 rnd. With MC, knit 1 rnd. Set-up rnd On Needle 1, k1 with MC, p1 (2, 3) with CC, [k1 with MC, p1 with CC] 2 times, k1 with MC, p1 (2, 3) with CC, [k1f&b, k1 (3, 5), k1f&b] with MC, p1 (2, 3) with CC, [k1 with MC, p1 with CC] 2 times, k1 with MC, p1 (2, 3) with CC, k1 with MC; on Needle 2, with MC, k1f&b, k17 (23, 29), k1f&b—40 (52, 64) sts; 21 (27, 33) sts on Needle 1 for back of hand and 19 (25, 31) sts on Needle 2 for palm.

WristNext rnd Work Back of Hand chart for your size over 21 (27, 33) sts on Needle 1, work Palm chart for your size over 19 (25, 31) sts on Needle 2. Work in patt as established until Rnds 1–6 of Back of Hand chart have been worked 2 (3, 3) times. Note: If you would like a shorter or longer mitten, work fewer or more reps.

Thumb GussetRight mitten only:Set-up rnd Work in patt over 21 (27, 23) back of hand sts, pm for thumb, with MC, pick up thread between sts and k1f&b, pm, work in patt to end—42 (54, 66) sts total; 2 sts inc’d for thumb. Next rnd Work in patt to m, sl m, work Thumb chart for your size to m, sl m, work in patt to end.Left mitten only:Set-up rnd Work in patt to end, pm for thumb, with MC, pick up thread be-tween sts and k1f&b—42 (54, 66) sts; 2 sts inc’d for thumb. Next rnd Work in patt to m, sl m, work Thumb chart for your size to end.Both mittens:Work in patt as established through Rnd 17 (23, 29) of Thumb chart—52 (68, 84) sts total. Next rnd Work in patt to thumb m, sl m, place next 12 (16, 20) sts on holder for thumb, with MC, CO 2 sts, work in patt to end—42 (54, 66) sts rem. Next rnd Work in patt to 1 st before thumb m, with MC, ssk (removing m), k2tog (using first st of rnd on Left mitten), work in patt to end—40 (52, 64) sts rem; 21 (27, 33) sts on Needle 1 for back of hand and 19 (25, 31) sts on Needle 2 for palm.

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Back of Hand Size 81⁄2"

33 sts

5

3

1

Back of Hand Size 7"

27 sts

5

3

1

Back of Hand Size 51⁄4"

21 sts

5

3

1

19 sts

3

1

Palm Size 51/4"Palm Size 51⁄4"

19 sts

3

1

25 sts

3

1

Palm Size 7"Palm Size 7"

25 sts

3

1

31 sts

3

1

Palm Size 81/2"Palm Size 81⁄2"

31 sts

3

1

with MC, knit

with CC, knit

with CC, purl

with MC, yo

with CC, yo

with MC, k1tbl

with CC, k1tbl

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, with MC, k1, k1 from cn

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, with MC, k1, k1 from cn


sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, with MC, k1, k2 from cn



sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in front, k1 with MC, p1 with CC, [k1 with MC, p1 with MC, k1 with MC] from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k1 with MC, p1 with CC, k1 with MC, [p1 with CC, k1 with MC] from cn

Key

with MC, knit

with CC, knit

with CC, purl

with MC, yo

with CC, yo

with MC, k1tbl

with CC, k1tbl

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, with MC, k1, k1 from cn






sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k1 with MC, p1 with CC, k1 with MC, [p1 with CC, k1 with MC] from cn

sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in front, k1 with MC, p1 with CC, [k1 with MC, p1 with MC, k1 with MC] from cn

2 inc'd to 20 sts

Thumb Size 81/2"Thumb Size 81⁄2"

2 inc’d to 20 sts

1

3

5

7

11

9

13

17

15

23

21

19

25

29

27

2 inc'd to 16 sts

Thumb Size 7"Thumb Size 7"

2 inc’d to 16 sts

1

3

5

7

11

9

13

17

15

23

21

19

2 inc'd to 12 sts

Thumb Size 51/4"Thumb Size 51⁄4"

2 inc’d to 12 sts

1

3

5

7

13

11

9

17

15



HandWork even in patt until Back of Hand chart has been worked 7 (11, 13) times total, or until the mitten body reaches just past the little finger when tried on.

Shape TopDec rnd [With MC, ssk, work in patt to last 2 sts of needle, with MC, k2tog] 2 times—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every rnd 7 (10, 13) more times—8 sts rem; 5 sts on Needle 1 and 3 sts on Needle 2. Next rnd With MC, ssk, k1, k2tog, k3—6 sts rem. Break yarn, thread tail on tapestry needle, run through rem sts and secure on WS.

ThumbPlace 12 (16, 20) sts on 2 cir needles, half on each needle. Next rnd Work in patt as established over 12 (16, 20) sts, with MC, pick up and knit 5 sts from area joining base of thumb to hand—17 (21, 25) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Next rnd Work in patt to last 5 sts, with MC, ssk, k1, k2tog—15 (19, 23) sts rem. Next rnd Work in patt to last 3 sts, with MC, k2tog—14 (18, 22) sts rem. Sl last st on Needle 2 to Needle 1, pm for new beg of rnd, remove old beg of rnd m—7 (9, 11) sts on each needle. Work even in stripe patt as established until thumb measures ½ " less than desired. Dec rnd [With MC, ssk, work in patt to last 2 sts of needle, with MC, k2tog] 2 times—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every rnd 1 (2, 3) more time(s)—6 sts rem. Break yarn, thread tail on tapestry needle, run through rem sts and secure on WS.

FinishingSeam edging. Weave in ends, closing any holes at base of thumb, and block.

JEN HAGAN is the designer of Figheadh Yarn-works. Her only more cherished loves than her yarn are her family, her overlarge personal library, her spices, and her collection of grains and dried beans. Find out more about Jen at figheadh.com.

FINISHED SIZE About 46" wide at upper edge and 18" tall.YARN Anzula Nebula (84% me-rino, 16% nylon; 400 yd [366 m]/4 oz [115 g]): coco, 2 skeins.NEEDLES Size 6 (4 mm): 24" and 47"circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); tapestry needle; waste yarn for provisional CO.GAUGE 16 sts and 20 rows = 4" in St st; 20 sts and 18 rows = 4" in charted patt.


NOTES - Shawl is knitted back and forth in rows from the center neck to the bottom in three sections. Each stockinette stitch side section is in-creased by one stitch every right-side row; the charts are worked in the center section.

- On wrong-side rows, the last yar-nover (4 stitches from end) may be difficult to see because it will be ly-ing over the slipped stitches. To keep the yarn that forms the yarnover and rolls the I-cord at the back of the work, insert the right needle into the yarnover and purl as usual but do not drop stitch from left needle.

3

3 3

333

3

3

3

3

3

3

3 333

Chart 1

1

3

5

7

9

11

3

3 3

3

33

33

3

3 3

333

3

3

Scale

10 st repeat*Chart begins with a WS row

*1

3

5

2

4

6

Riddles with Dragons Shawl

Kate Poe

Dragons, be they good or evil, are the quintessential fantasy being. Dragons are known for being wise and sometimes helpful, but only after the quester has riddled with them. Some would make the quester solve the riddle before answering the question, while others would answer the question in the form of a riddle. This shawl, with a dragon-scale lace pattern, will keep you warm as you ponder the dragon’s riddle. The scale pattern is a simple repeat with patterning on both sides to keep you on your toes.

3

333

Key

p on RS; k on WS

p2tog on RS; k2tog on WS

p3tog on RS; k3tog on WS

purl into front, back, front of same st on RS

knit into front, back, front of same st on WS

double decrease (see Stitch Guide)

yo

pattern repeat

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Stitch GuideUnattached I-Cord: (worked from left to right with RS facing)Step 1 Transfer 3 sts to left needle.Step 2 K3. Do not turn.One row of unattached I-cord completed.

I-Cord Bind-Off: (worked from left to right with RS facing)Step 1 Transfer 4 sts to left needle.Step 2 K2tog, k2. Do not turn.One st bound off.

Double Decrease:Step 1 Slip 2 sts from left needle to right needle; pass second st on right needle over first st. Slip rem st back to left needle.Step 2 Pass second st on left needle over first st.Step 3 Purl rem st on RS; knit on WS.

ShawlUsing a provisional method, CO 3 sts. Do not join. Next row (RS) With work-ing yarn, knit. Do not turn. CO 24 sts as foll: *Transfer 3 sts to left needle, yo, k3; rep from * 23 more times—27 sts. Set-up row (WS) Sl 3 sts (see Notes), p24, remove waste yarn from CO and place 3 CO sts on left needle, knit 3—30 sts. Inc row (RS) Sl 3 sts, yo, k12, yo, k12, yo, k3—33 sts. Inc row (WS) Sl 3 sts, p13, place marker (pm), yo, k1, yo, pm, p13, k3 (see Notes)—35 sts. Next row (RS) Sl 3 sts, yo, knit to m, sl m, work Row 1 of Chart 1, sl m, knit to last 3 sts, yo, k3. Next row (WS) Sl 3 sts, purl to m, sl m, work Row 2 of Chart 1, sl m, purl to last 3 sts, k3—43 sts: 9 center and 17 each side. Cont in patt working Rows 3–11 of Chart 1 between m—83 sts: 39 center and 22 each side. Beg Scale chart. Note: Scale chart beg with a WS row. Cont in patt working Rows 1–6 of Scale chart between m 13 times, then work Rows 1–4 of Scale chart once more—439 sts: 313 center and 63 each side. Do not turn.

FinishingRemove m as you come to them. Work 3 rows of unattached I-cord (see Stitch Guide) to turn corner. BO 60 sts work-ing from left to right with RS facing and using the I-cord BO (see Stitch Guide). Three sts of I-cord border rem in side section. BO center section and

Bring the tip of the left needle under the left leg of the yarnover so that it is behind the 3 slipped stitches, then drop completed purl stitch from left needle. Move yarn to back and knit the last 3 stitches.

- A circular needle is used to accom-modate the large number of stitches. Change to longer circular needle when necessary.

- The I-cord bind-off is worked from left to right with the right side facing

and incorporates short-rows in the center lace section to complete the last row of scales. All bind-off stitches in the shawl use the I-cord bind-off (see Stitch Guide).

- Slip all stitches purlwise (pwise) with yarn in front (wyf) unless otherwise indicated.

- Correct gauge is not critical for this project, but your final measurements and yardage requirements may vary if your gauge is different.


Hermionie's Long Fingerless Gloves

Moira Engel

complete last row of scales using short-rows as foll:Set-up row (RS) BO 3 sts, work 2 rows of unattached I-cord, turn.Short-row 1 (WS) Sl 3 I-cord sts to right needle, k2tog, k3tog, k2tog. Sl last st worked back to left needle. Pass second st on right needle over first st on right needle. Sl rem st back to left needle. Pass second st on left needle over first st, turn.Short-row 2 (RS) Transfer 1 st to left needle (4 sts now on left needle) and BO 1 st. Work 2 rows of unattached I-cord, BO 3 sts, work 2 rows of unat-tached I-cord, turn.Rep Short-rows 1 and 2 to 13 sts before m: 3 I-cord sts and 10 scale sts rem in center section. Work Short-row 1 once more. Next row (RS) Transfer 1 st to left needle and BO 1 st. Work 2 rows of unattached I-cord. BO 63 sts—6 I-cord sts rem: 3 sts for bottom edge and 3 sts for side edge. Work 2 rows of unattached I-cord. Break yarn and sew beg and end of I-cord tog. Block as desired. Weave in ends.

KATE POE has been fascinated with dragons for years and would love to be a were-dragon. She lives in south-central Pennsylvania and would love to have brownies to do the housework so there would be more time for knitting. Find her on Ravelry as rosegil.


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Knit 31 inspired projectsFrom the editors of Spin-Off magazine comes another edition of the popular special issue Jane Austen Knits!

Drawing on a love for literature and the Regency era, this magazine is full of knitwear inspired by the novels of Jane Austen and the Regency era within which she lived. Knitwear designers have created 31 beautiful and functional garments that are wearable today by women, men, and children.

Knit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projectsKnit 31 inspired projects

This special issue is available at your local yarn shop or online at InterweaveStore.com.

NOW AVAILABLE!

EK_069.indd 69 6/26/14 1:17 PM

Stories passed down through the ages, as familiar as old friends (or fears), honed like knitting needles.


Snowdrop and Rose Red CowlDesigned by Andrea Jurgrau. PAGE 76. YARN: Hand Maiden Swiss Mountain Cashmere and Silk, distributed by ColorSong Yarn.

The Classics

EK_070-075_G_The_Classics.indd 70 6/26/14 12:12 PM


Rumpelstiltskin’s Wrap Designed by Moira Engel. PAGE 78. YARN:

Sweet Fiber Yarns Merino Twist DK.


String of Flowers CircletDesigned by Sarah Gomez. PAGE 86. YARN: Knit Picks Palette, distributed by Crafts Americana.


Hunger for Rampion Pullover

Designed by Jen Hagan. PAGE 81. YARN: Rowan

Baby Merino Silk DK, distributed by

Westminster Fibers.



Taking Flight KerchiefDesigned by Jennifer Chase-Rappaport. PAGE 87. YARN: Holiday Yarns Silver Sock.

Singeli’s Silver SlippersDesigned by Lisa Jacobs. PAGE 89.

YARN: Patons Classic Wool Worsted, distributed by Yarnspirations.


Undine ShawletteDesigned by Andrea Jurgrau. PAGE 91. YARN: Malabrigo Sock.




Designed by Anne Podlesak. PAGE 94. YARN: Harrisville Designs Watershed.

Merlin SweaterDesigned by Anne Podlesak. PAGE 94. YARN: Harrisville Designs Watershed.



Snowdrop and Rose Red Cowl

Andrea Jurgrau

The tale of Snowdrop and Rose Red differs from the better-known Snow White story. Sisters Snowdrop and Rose Red care for a half-frozen talking bear and later help an ungrateful dwarf. Upon meeting the bear and fearing for his own life, the dwarf desperately encourages the bear to eat the girls and spare him. The bear is released from the dwarf’s curse and transformed into a wealthy prince. This sweet cowl uses an embossed lace pattern with contrasting beads decorating the lower edge, perfect for protection on a walk in the woods.

FINISHED SIZE 7" tall (8" to beaded tips) and 16½ " neck circumference.YARN Hand Maiden Swiss Mountain Cashmere and Silk (65% cashmere, 35% silk; 197 yd [180 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): 1 skein per cowl. Shown in ivory for Snow-drop and beet for Rose Red. Yarn distributed by ColorSong Yarn.NEEDLES Cast-on—size 5 (3.75 mm): 16" circular (cir) (or 2 sizes larger than smaller needle). Cowl—size 3 (3.25 mm): 16" cir. Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Size 14 (0.75 mm) steel crochet hook to place beads (or size to fit beads and yarn); 9 seed beads size 6/0 to complement yarn color (shown with Transpar-ent Ruby AB for ivory cowl and

Ecru Pearl for beet cowl); tapestry needle; markers (m).GAUGE 6 sts = 1" wide in St st on smaller needle.


Stitch GuideLeft Twist (LT) cable at patt rep edge: Remove beg-of-rnd m, k1, place beg-of-rnd m, work in patt to last 2 sts, sl 1 st to cn, hold in front, k1, sl beg-of-rnd m, k1 from cn. Note that first st of new rnd has already been worked when cont with chart.

Place Bead: Lift strand between two sts, knit lifted strand to make 1 st; place a bead onto crochet hook; lift newly made st with hook and slide bead onto st; place beaded st on right needle, adjusting tension.

CowlUsing the Long-tail method and larger cir needle, CO 108 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Change to smaller cir needle. Next rnd Work 12-st rep of Lace chart 9 times. Cont in patt as established through Rnd 18. Work Rnds 11–18 four more times. Work Rnds 19–47—207 sts. Purl 1 rnd. T

he C

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cs

EK_076-097_The_Classics.indd 76 6/26/14 12:46 PM



Next rnd BO as foll: K2, return 2 sts to left needle, k2tog, *k1, return 2 sts to left needle, k2tog; rep from * to end. Break yarn and fasten off.

FinishingWeave in ends. Soak in cool water for 30 minutes and roll in a towel to remove excess water. Block to finished di men-sions, pinning out points at each bead and using a container to support the neck section. Allow to dry completely before removing pins. Clip ends.

Lace

12 to 23 st repeat

*see Stitch Guide

*25

23

21

19*17

15

13

11*

9

7

5

3

1

8-rnd rep

47*45

43

41*39

37*35

33*31

29

27

Key

knit

purl

yo

k1tbl

k2tog

ssk


no stitch

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, k1, k1 from cn (LT)

pattern repeat



Rumpelstiltskin’s Wrap

Moira Engel

What would the miller’s daughter knit? She certainly would have time to spend on a project after winning the king’s hand in marriage. Castles must be drafty, so a sturdy, warm hooded wrap would be perfect. A little enchantment would help her spin some straw into an elegant, finely wrought piece that looks like a goldsmith had a hand in it.

FINISHED SIZE 69" long and 15" tall, excluding hood.YARN Sweet Fiber Yarns Merino Twist DK (100% superwash Merino; 260 yd [238 m]/4 oz [113 g]): Spanish coin, 6 skeins.NEEDLES Size 6 (4 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); cable needles (cn), 2; tapestry needle.GAUGE 24 sts and 32 rows = 4" in Seed st.


NOTE - Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in back.

Stitch GuideSeed Stitch: (even number of sts)Row 1 *K1, p1; rep from * to end.Row 2 *P1, k1; rep from * to end.Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

Seed Stitch: (odd number of sts)Row 1 *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.Rep Row 1 for patt.

WrapMain SectionCO 102 sts. Set-up row (WS) Work 8 sts in Seed st (see Stitch Guide),

place marker (pm), work Set-up row of Twisty Twigs chart over 19 sts, pm, work 12 sts in Seed st, pm, work Set-up row of Trellis chart over 24 sts, pm, work 12 sts in Seed st, pm, work Set-up row of Twisty Twigs chart over 19 sts, pm, work 8 sts in Seed st. Cont in patt as established, rep Rows 1–12 of charts and sl m as you come

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Row 17 Sl 1, k1, yo, k2tog, [p2, k2] 3 times, p1, k2tog, work 5 sts in Seed st—23 sts rem.Row 18 Work 6 sts in Seed st, k1, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.Row 19 Sl 1, k1, yo, k2tog, [p2, k2] 3 times, p1, k2tog, work 4 sts in Seed st—22 sts rem.Row 20 Work 5 sts in Seed st, k1, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.

Row 13 Sl 1, k1, yo, k2tog, [p2, k2] 3 times, p1, k2tog, work 7 sts in Seed st—25 sts rem.Row 14 Work 8 sts in Seed st, k1, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.Row 15 Sl 1, k1, yo, k2tog, [p2, k2] 3 times, p1, k2tog, work 6 sts in Seed st—24 sts rem.Row 16 Work 7 sts in Seed st, k1, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.

to them, until piece measures 63". BO all sts.

End Edgings (Make 2)CO 22 sts.Note: Work new sts into Seed st patt as established.Row 1 (RS) Sl 1 (see Note), k1, yo, k2tog, [p2, k2] 3 times, p1, M1, work 5 sts in Seed st—23 sts.Row 2 Work 6 sts in Seed st, k1 [p2, k2] 3 times, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.Row 3 Sl 1, k1, yo, k2tog, [p2, k2] 3 times, p1, M1, work 6 sts in Seed st—24 sts.Row 4 Work 7 sts in Seed st, k1, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.Row 5 Sl 1, k1, yo, k2tog, [p2, k2] 3 times, p1, M1, work 7 sts in Seed st—25 sts.Row 6 Work 8 sts in Seed st, k1, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.Row 7 Sl 1, k1, yo, k2tog, [p2, k2] 3 times, p1, M1, work 8 sts in Seed st—26 sts.Row 8 Work 9 sts in Seed st, k1, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.Row 9 Sl 1, k1, yo, k2tog, [p2, k2] 3 times, p1, M1, work 9 sts in Seed st—27 sts.Row 10 Work 10 sts in Seed st, k1, bring yarn to front, [wrap yarn clock-wise around rem 16 sts on left needle] 3 times, then [p2, k2] 3 times, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.Row 11 Sl 1, k1, yo, k2tog, [p2, k2] 3 times, p1, k2tog, work 8 sts in Seed st—26 sts rem.Row 12 Work 9 sts in Seed st, k1, [p2, k2] 3 times, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.

Trellis

24 sts

11

9

7

5

3

1Set-up

rep as needed

11

9

7

5

3

1

19 sts

Twisty Twigs

Set-up

rep as needed

Key




sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1tbl, k1tbl from cn

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, k1tbl, k1tbl from cn

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1tbl, p1 from cn

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, p1, k1tbl from cn

sl 1 st onto first cn and hold in back, sl 1 st onto 2nd cn and hold in back, k1tbl, p1 from 2nd cn, k1tbl from first cn



in half and mark center of one long edge, then mark 10" from center m on each side. Pin hood to shawl, centering hood between m on shawl and leaving the 8-st Seed-st section on each edge free. Sew hood to shawl. Sew long BO edges of hood to sides of flap on top of hood. Weave in ends.

MOIRA ENGEL lives and designs on the west coast of Canada. She is married to a tugboat captain with two children, one grown and one almost grown. Whenever a different collection of fairy tales is spotted, Moira and her children must have it, which has led to an impressive collection of tomes.

Cont in patt as established, rep Rows 1–12 of charts and sl m as you come to them, until piece measures 13", ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) BO 66 sts, work in patt to last 66 sts, join new yarn and BO rem 66 sts—21 sts rem. Working first and last st in St st, work even in patt for 9", measured from BO row. Work in Seed st for 1¼". BO all sts in patt.

FinishingWith RS facing, sew Seed st side of edging to each short end of the main section. Fold hood in half and mark center bottom. Fold the shawl section

Rep Rows 1–20 six more times. BO all sts.

HoodCO 153 sts. Set-up row (WS) Work 8 sts in Seed st, pm, work Set-up row of Twisty Twigs chart over 19 sts, pm, work 8 sts in Seed st, pm, work Set-up row of Trellis chart over 24 sts, pm, work 8 sts in Seed st, pm, work Set-up row of Twisty Twigs chart over 19 sts, pm, work 8 sts in Seed st, pm, work Set-up row of Trellis chart over 24 sts, pm, work 8 sts in Seed st, pm, work Set-up row of Twisty Twigs chart over 19 sts, pm, work 8 sts in Seed st.

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from the tower, but ultimately restores the prince’s sight with her magic tears. Rapunzel’s sweater evokes her famous hair in elegant rope cables that cascade over the bodice and sleeves.

FINISHED SIZE 31¼ (33½ , 35¾ , 39, 41¼ , 43½ , 45¾ )" bust circum-ference. Sweater shown measures 33½ ".YARN Rowan Baby Merino Silk DK (66% superwash Merino, 34% tussah silk; 148 yd [135 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #678 rose, 9 (9, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13) skeins. Yarn distributed by Westminster Fibers.NEEDLES Collar—size 6 (4 mm): 16" circular (cir). Yoke and body—size 6 (4 mm): 24" or 32" cir. Sleeves—size 6 (4 mm): set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); stitch holders; cable needle (cn); tapes-try needle.GAUGE 21 sts and 27 rnds = 4" in St st; 44 sts of Back chart = 5½ " wide; 52 sts of Front chart = 6¾ " wide.


NOTES - The lace pattern is worked slightly differently at the front neck (where there is a double yarnover at the apex of the diamond) and at the cuffs (where there is a single yarnover at that point). This makes the cuff pattern less open. In both cases, two stitches are worked into the yarnover (double and single) in the following round.

- Work Rows 1–40 of Front chart once, then repeat Rows 41–56 as needed.

- The body shaping may be custom-ized by changing the number and frequency of the decreases and increases.

- The body and sleeve lengths may be worked shorter or longer by adjust-ing the number of cable pattern repeats.

- Beware of changes in length after blocking if using the suggested yarn,

A young mother-to-be so hungers for the root of the rampion plant (in German, Rapunzel) that she asks her husband to steal a portion from their unfriendly neighborhood enchant-ress, a transgression that eventually leads to Rapunzel’s tower imprison-ment. A prince so hungers for the girl Rapunzel that he risks the wrath of the same sorceress by climbing up Rapunzel’s long braids into the tower. Rapunzel proves the heroine of the story, as she not only survives in the wilderness after her escape

Hunger for R ampion Pullover

Jen Hagan

leads to Rapunzel’s tower imprison-

girl Rapunzel that he risks the wrath of the same sorceress by climbing up

tower. Rapunzel proves the heroine of the story, as she not only survives



as it has a tendency to get longer. Keep blocked row gauge in mind when working to lengths specified in the pattern.

SweaterCollarWith 16" cir needle, CO 127 (131, 139, 145, 153, 157, 169) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Next rnd K15 (15, 17, 17, 19, 19, 21) for right sleeve, pm for raglan, k48 (50, 52, 56, 58, 60, 64) for front, pm for raglan, k15 (15, 17, 17, 19, 19, 21) for left sleeve, pm for raglan, k49 (51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 63) for back. Work in garter st (purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd) for 3 rnds.

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rep as needed

52 stsst 3 st 2st 51 st 50

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knit

purl

yo

k2tog

ssk

(k1, p1) into yo

no stitch





sl 4 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, (k2, p2) from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p2, k2, k2 from cn



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YokeSet-up rnd K1, p5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8), k1f&b, k2, p5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8), k1, sl m, k1 (1, 1, 3, 4, 5, 7), p0 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2), k1f&b, k44, k1f&b, p0 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2), k1 (1, 1, 3, 4, 5, 7), sl m, k1, p5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8), k1f&b, k2, p5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8), k1, sl m, k5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12), p2, k1f&b, k2, p4, [k1f&b, k2, p6] 2 times, k2, k1f&b, p4, k2, k1f&b, p2, k5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12)—136 (140, 148, 154, 162, 166, 178) sts: 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22) sts for each sleeve, 50 (52, 54, 58, 60, 62, 66) sts for front, 54 (56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 68) sts for back.Size 311⁄4" only:Inc rnd K1, M1LP, p5, work Rope Cable chart, p5, M1RP, k1, sl m, k1, M1LP, beg with st 3 and ending with st 50 of chart, work Front chart (see Notes) to 1 st before m, M1RP, k1, sl m, k1, M1LP, p5, work Rope Cable chart, p5, M1RP, k1, sl m, k1, M1L, k4, work Back chart, k4, M1R, k1—144 sts: 18 sts for each sleeve, 52 sts for front, 56 sts for back. Work 1 rnd even.Sizes 311⁄4 (331⁄2)" only:Inc rnd K1, M1LP, p6 (5), work Rope Cable chart, p6 (5), M1RP, k1, sl m, k1, M1LP, beg with st 2 and ending with st 51 of chart, work Row 2 (1) of Front chart to 1 st before m, M1RP, k1, sl m, k1, M1LP, p6 (5), work Rope Cable chart, p6 (5), M1RP, k1, sl m, k1, M1L, k5, work Back chart, k5, M1R, k1—152 (148) sts: 20 (18) sts for each sleeve, 54 sts for front, 58 sts for back. Work 1 rnd even.All sizes:Inc rnd K1, M1LP, p7 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8), pm, work Rope Cable chart, pm, p7 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8), M1RP, k1, sl m, k1, M1L, k0 (0, 0, 2, 3, 4, 6), pm, work Front chart, pm, k0 (0, 0, 2, 3, 4, 6), M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1LP, p7 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8), pm, work Rope Cable chart, pm, p7 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8), M1RP, k1, sl m, k1, M1L, k6 (6, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11), pm, work Back chart, pm, k6 (6, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11), M1R, k1—160 (156, 156, 162, 170, 174, 186) sts: 22 (20, 20, 20, 22, 22, 24) sts for each sleeve, 56 (56, 56, 60, 62, 64, 68) sts for front, 60 (60, 60, 62, 64, 66, 70) sts for back. Work 1 rnd even. Inc rnd *K1, M1LP, work in patt to 1 st before raglan m, M1RP, k1, sl m, k1, M1L, work in patt to 1 st before raglan m, M1R, k1, sl m; rep from * once more—8 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every other rnd 16 (18, 21, 23, 22, 24, 24) more times—296 (308, 332,

354, 354, 374, 386) sts: 56 (58, 64, 68, 68, 72, 74) sts for each sleeve, 90 (94, 100, 108, 108, 114, 118) sts for front, 94 (98, 104, 110, 110, 116, 120) sts for back. Work 1 rnd even.Sizes 311⁄4 (331⁄2)" only:Inc rnd K1, M1LP, work in patt to 1 st before raglan m, M1RP, k1, sl m, k1, M1L, work in patt to 1 st before raglan m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1LP, work in patt to 1 st before raglan m, M1RP, k1, sl m, work to end—6 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every other rnd 1 (0) more time—308 (314) sts: 60 sts for each sleeve, 94 (96) sts for front, 94 (98) sts for back. Work 1 rnd even.Sizes 331⁄2 (353⁄4)" only:Inc rnd Work in patt to raglan m, sl m,

k1, M1L, work in patt to 1 st before raglan m, M1R, k1, sl m, work in patt to end—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every other rnd 0 (1) more time—316 (336) sts: 60 (64) sts for each sleeve, 98 (104) sts each for front and back.Sizes 39 (411⁄4, 431⁄2, 453⁄4)" only:Inc rnd *Work in patt to raglan m, sl m, k1, M1L, work in patt to 1 st before raglan m, M1R, k1, sl m; rep from * once more—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every other rnd 0 (2, 2, 2) more times—358 (366, 386, 398) sts: 68 (68, 72, 74) sts for each sleeve, 110 (114, 120, 124) sts for front, 112 (116, 122, 126) sts for back. Work 1 rnd even. Inc rnd Work in patt to raglan m, sl m, k1, M1L, work in patt to 1 st before raglan



m, M1R, k1, sl m, work in patt to end—360 (368, 388, 400) sts: 68 (68, 72, 74) sts for each sleeve, 112 (116, 122, 126) sts each for front and back.All sizes:Work even in patt until yoke measures 7¼ (7½ , 7¾ , 8, 8½ , 9, 9½ )" from CO.Divide for body and sleeves: Next rnd Remove m, place 60 (60, 64, 68, 68, 72, 74) right sleeve sts on holder, remove m, CO 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts for underarm, pm for new beg of rnd, CO 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts for underarm, work 94 (98, 104, 112, 116, 122, 126) front sts in patt, remove m, place 60 (60, 64, 68, 68, 72, 74) left sleeve sts on holder, remove m, CO 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts for underarm, pm for side, CO 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts for underarm, work 94 (98, 104, 112, 116, 122, 126) back sts in patt, k2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5), p1—200 (212, 224, 240, 252, 264, 276) sts for body.

Lower BodyNext rnd *P1, k2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5), work in patt to 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts before side m, k2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5), p1; rep from * once more. Work even in patt for 2 (2, 2, 2½ , 2½ , 2¾ , 2¾ )". Shape waist: Dec rnd *P1, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, work in patt to m, ssk, knit to 3 sts before side m, k2tog, p1; rep from * once more—8 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 3rd rnd 5 more times—152 (164, 176, 192, 204, 216, 228) sts rem. Work even for 2½ ". Inc rnd *P1, RLI, knit to m, LLI, sl m, work in patt to m, sl m, RLI, knit to 1 st before side m, LLI, p1; rep from * once more—8 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 4th rnd 8 more times—224 (236, 248, 264, 276, 288, 300) sts. Work even until piece measures 18 (18, 18, 18½ , 19, 19, 19½ )" from underarm. Next rnd Work in patt, working ssk at center of each left-

Sleeve Cable

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sl 4 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, (k2, p2) from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p2, k2, k2 from cn



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purl to m, work Sleeve Lace chart to m, purl to last 3 sts, k2, p1. Cont in patt through end of chart. Work 3 rnds in garter st. BO all sts kwise.

FinishingWeave in ends. Block to measurements.

JEN HAGAN is the designer of Figheadh Yarnworks. When not found in her favorite knitting spot, Jen may best be located in her kitchen or on long walks in the Washington State woods with her husband. Find out more about Jen at www.figheadh.com, or her blog, www.figknits.blogspot.com.

crossing cable and k2tog at center of each right-crossing cable. Work 3 rnds in garter st. BO all sts kwise.

SleeveWith dpn, RS facing, and beg at center of underarm, pick up and knit 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts along CO sts, work 60 (60, 64, 68, 68, 72, 74) sleeve sts in patt, pick up and knit 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts along CO edge—66 (68, 72, 76, 78, 82, 86) sts total. Next rnd P1, k2, purl to m, work in patt to m, purl to last 3 sts, k2, p1. Work even in patt until piece measures 2½ (2¾ , 2¾ , 2¾ , 3¼ , 3¼ , 3¾ )" from underarm, ending with Row 2 of chart, and removing m on last rnd. Next rnd P1, k2, p2 (3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12), pm, work Sleeve Cable chart, pm, p2 (3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12), k2, p1. Cont in patt through end of chart. Next rnd P1, k2,

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String of Flowers Circlet

Sarah Gomez

Fairy-tale princesses almost always have long and flowing hair. This flower circlet celebrates your own lovely locks. Join cast-on and bind-off to make a precious coronet, or leave the ends free to plait into a long braid. A longer length makes a sweet necklace. These flowers take advantage of a picot cast-on tech-nique that allows a large number of petals to be made quickly without cutting the yarn and rejoining after each petal.

FINISHED SIZE Circlet shown measures 20" around, and braid shown measures 13" long. Easily customizable to head size and hair length; see Notes.YARN Knit Picks Palette (100% Peruvian Highland wool; 231 yd [211 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #24256 clover (MC), #25996 victorian (CC1), #24005 golden heather (CC2), #26050 comfrey (CC3), 1 skein each. Yarn distributed by Crafts Americana.NEEDLES Size 1 (2.25 mm): 2 double-pointed (dpn).NOTIONS Scissors; tapestry needle; hair clip (for braid).GAUGE Gauge is not crucial for this project.


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Taking Flight Kerchief

Jennifer Chase-Rappapor t

In some other time, some other place, a lonely girl toils at the drudgery that makes up her day. Her clothes are rags, her hair held back by a simple kerchief. But doesn’t that kerchief look just a bit like feathers? In the right light, does it seem to have a faint shim-mer to it? One day soon, something will happen to change this girl’s life forever, and she will find that the means of her escape has been with her all along.

NOTES - For the circlet, work the stem until it is long enough to fit comfortably and securely around your head; for the braid, work the stem until it is about the same length as the portion of your hair you wish to braid.

- On the samples shown, flowers are placed just over 2" apart. Depending on the length of the stem and how far apart you choose to place the flowers, you may wish to make more or fewer flowers than directed.

StemWith MC, CO 3 sts onto 1 dpn, leaving a long end for seaming. Knit all rows as I-cord until piece measures desired length (see Notes). Cut yarn, thread end through sts on needle, and pull tight.

FlowersWork 3 flowers with each CC for circlet, or 2 flowers with each CC for braid. *Using a knitted or cable method, CO 5 sts, BO 4 sts, sl rem st from right needle to left needle; 1 st and 1 petal formed. Rep from * 6 more times; 7 sts and 7 petals. Knit 1 row. Cut yarn leaving a long end for seam-ing, thread end through sts from right to left and pull tight.

FinishingBlock flowers if desired. For circlet, sew ends of stem tog using long yarn end from CO. Sew flowers evenly spaced along stem using long yarn ends (for braid, sew one of the flowers at end of stem). Weave in ends. To wear the braid, clip stem to hair with a hair clip and braid stem with hair.

SARAH GOMEZ is a young knitting designer who lives near Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Besides knit-ting, she enjoys crocheting, spinning, and reading fantasy books. You can find more of her designs at her website, www.alittlebittoknit.com.



Rows 17 and 18 Rep Rows 11 and 12.Row 19 K10, purl to last 10 sts, k9, k1f&b, using the backward-loop method, CO 9—10 sts inc’d.Row 20 K10, work Row 2 of Eyelet Chevron st to last st, k1f&b, using the backward-loop method, CO 9 sts—10 sts inc’d.Rep Rows 11–20 three more times, then Rows 11–18 once more—111 sts. Next row (WS) K10, purl to last 10 sts, k10. Change to smaller needles. Work 6 rows in garter st, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) K1, k2tog, [yo] 2 times, ssk, knit to last 5 sts, k2tog, [yo] 2 times, ssk, k1. Next row K2, (k1, p1) in double yo, knit to next double yo, (k1, p1) in double yo, k2. Work 4 rows in garter st. BO all sts.

FinishingI-cord tie: With dpn, CO 3 sts. Work I-cord for 24". BO all sts. Block pieces to measurements. Weave in ends. Thread I-cord tie through eyelets at each end of top of kerchief from WS to RS.

JENNIFER CHASE-RAPPAPORT spent her child-hood immersed in mythology and folktales, sure that she was meant to run off with the faeries. These days, she strives to find everyday magic even in urban Seattle. Her RocketBoy Knits line of patterns can be found on Ravelry, and she writes about her knitting life at www.rocketboyknits.com.

FINISHED SIZE About 19½ " long and 8½ " tall, excluding I-cord tie. To adjust size, see Notes.YARN Holiday Yarns Silver Sock (63% Merino, 20% silk, 15% nylon (polyamide), 2% metallic; 420 yd [384 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): ice bear, 1 skein.NEEDLES Kerchief—size 3 (3.25 mm): 24" circular (cir). Border—size 2 (2.75 mm): 24" cir. I-cord tie—size 3 (3.25 mm): 2 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Tapestry needle.GAUGE 25 sts and 28 rows = 4" in Eyelet Chevron st on larger needles.


NOTES - The sizing of this kerchief is very flexible, and it should fit most women.

- To adjust the size for children or for a larger head, subtract or add repeats of the pattern before working the garter-stitch border.

Stitch GuideS2kp2: Sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass 2 sl sts over—2 sts dec’d.

Eyelet Chevron Stitch: (multiple of 10 sts + 1)Row 1 (WS) Purl.Row 2 (RS) *K1, yo, k3, s2kp2, k3, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

KerchiefWith larger cir needle, CO 11 sts. Do not join.Row 1 (WS) Knit.Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8 (RS) K1, M1R, k3, s2kp2 (see Stitch Guide), k3, M1L, k1.Row 3 Knit.Row 5 Purl.Row 7 Knit.Row 9 K10, k1f&b, using the backward-loop method, CO 9 sts—21 sts.Row 10 K11, M1R, k3, s2kp2, k3, k1f&b, using the backward-loop method, CO 9 sts—31 sts.Row 11 (WS) K10, purl to last 10 sts, k10.Row 12 (RS) K1, M1R, k3, s2kp2, k3, M1L, work Row 2 of Eyelet Chevron st (see Stitch Guide) to last 10 sts, M1R, k3, s2kp2, k3, M1L, k1.Rows 13 and 14 Rep Rows 11 and 12.Row 15 Purl.Row 16 Rep Row 12.

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Singeli’s Silver SlippersL isa Jacobs

In the Swedish Cinderella story, the shoemaker makes his daughter Singeli a pair of silver slippers, which the Fairies of Fortune bless. Singeli wears her slippers under wooden clogs, and as she grows, her slippers grow with her. She becomes a cowherd for the king, and wearing her silver slippers, she rescues him from trolls. Later when she serves the king dinner, she trips and her clogs fall off, revealing her silver slippers. The king recog-nizes them and announces that she is his savior and he will marry only her. Sized from toddler to adult, these simple slippers can be fitted personally to each wearer by adjusting the felting.

FINISHED SIZE About 5½ (6, 6½ , 7, 8, 9)" circumference and 5½ (7, 8, 8¾ , 10, 11)" length after felting; 6 (6½ , 7, 7½ , 8½ , 9½ )" circumfer-ence and 8 (9¾ , 11½ , 12½ , 14¼ , 15½ )" length before felting. Slip-pers shown in 10" lengths.YARN Patons Classic Wool Worsted (100% wool; 210 yd [192 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): #00202 Aran, 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) skein(s). Yarn distributed by Yarnspirations.NEEDLES Size 9 (5.5 mm): set of 5 double pointed (dpn) (see Notes). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); waste yarn or holders; tapestry needle; embroidery needle; silver embroi-dery floss.GAUGE 16 sts and 20 rows = 4" in St st before felting.


NOTES - Slipper begins with a rectangle worked back and forth in rows on two double-pointed needles. Stitches are picked up around the sides of the rectangle and worked circularly from toe to instep; then the tongue and foot are worked flat to the back of the heel. The heel is finished with a three-needle bind-off.

- Slipper toe can be worked using double-pointed needles, two circular needles, or one long circular needle for the Magic Loop method.



- Size may be adjusted by increasing or decreasing felting time. Check slippers often during felting process.

- When working embroidery, scale flower to fit in center of slipper toe and add more rows of Jacobean couching, having thread lines about ¼" apart before couching.

SlipperToeCO 4 (4, 4, 5, 6, 7) sts onto one dpn. Next row Purl. Next row Knit. Rep last 2 rows. Do not turn. Place marker (pm) and rotate work 90 degrees clockwise, and with second dpn pick up and k3 sts along left edge of rectangle, pm, rotate work and with third dpn pick up and k4 (4, 4, 5, 6, 7) sts along CO edge, pm, rotate work and with fourth needle pick up and k3 along rem edge of rect-angle, pm, and join in the rnd—14 (14, 14, 16, 18, 20) sts. Next rnd Knit. Inc rnd K1, M1, knit to 1 st before m, M1, k1, sl m, [k1, M1] twice, k1, sl m, k4 (4, 4, 5, 6, 7), sl m, [k1, M1] twice, k1—20 (20, 20, 22, 24, 26) sts. Next rnd Knit. Inc

k1, M0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 1), knit to 1 st before m, M0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 1), k1—24 (26, 28, 30, 34, 38) sts. Work even for 13 (18, 24, 25, 30, 34) rnds, removing all m on final rnd. K1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) more sts past end of rnd. Toe measures about 4 (5, 6¼, 6½, 7½, 8¼)". Note: Remainder of slipper is worked back and forth in rows.

TongueSet-up row K1, ssk, k0 (0, 0, 2, 2, 4), k2 tog, k1—4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 8) tongue sts. Place rem 18 (20, 22, 22, 26, 28) sts on hold. Working tongue sts only, purl 1 row. Knit 1 row. BO tongue sts. Break yarn.

Instep and SoleReplace 18 (20, 22, 22, 26, 28) sts on needle and with RS facing rejoin yarn at left of tongue. Knit 1 row. Purl 1 row. Inc row (RS) K1, M1, knit to last st, M1, k1—20 (22, 24, 24, 28, 30) sts. Rep Inc row every 4th row 0 (0, 2, 5, 5, 6) more times—20 (22, 28, 34, 38, 42) sts. Work even for 11 (13, 10, 0, 4, 2) rows, ending with a RS row.

HeelSet-up row (WS) P7 (7, 10, 12, 14, 16), pm, p6 (8, 8, 10, 10, 10), pm, purl to end. Dec row (RS) Knit to m, sl m, k2tog, k2 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6), ssk, sl m, knit to end—18 (20, 26, 32, 36, 40) sts rem. Next row Purl. Rep last 2 rows 0 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) more time(s)—18 (18, 24, 28, 32, 36) sts rem. Next row (RS) K7 (7, 10, 12, 14, 16) and place on spare dpn, remove m, BO 4 sts removing m, knit to end—7 (7, 10, 12, 14, 16) sts rem. Work 2 rows even. Break yarn leaving an 18" tail. Rejoin working yarn to 7 (7,

rnd K1, M1, knit to 1 st before m, M1, k1, sl m, k1, M1, knit to 1 st before m, M0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1), k1, sl m, k4 (4, 4, 5, 6, 7), sl m, k1, M0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1), knit to 1 st before m, M1, k1—24 (26, 26, 28, 30, 32) sts. Next rnd Knit. Inc rnd K1, M0 (0, 1, 1, 1, 1), knit to 1 st before m, M0 (0, 1, 1, 1, 1), k1, sl m, k1, M0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 1), knit to 1 st before m, M0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 1), k1, sl m, k4 (4, 4, 5, 6, 7), sl m,

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There is something romantic and sinister about the mermaid. She pulls you in with song, then wraps around you like seaweed. This piece is named for one water-spirit, from a German fairy tale, who marries a mortal man to obtain a soul. The

Undine ShawletteAndrea Jurgrau

shawl uses a hand-dyed yarn with colors of the ocean and a lace pattern reminiscent of shells and seaweed.

FINISHED SIZE 18" deep and 34" wide.YARN Malabrigo Sock (100% Merino; 440 yd [404 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): solis, 1 skein.NEEDLES Size 4 (3.5 mm): 32" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. NOTIONS 45 6/0 or 5/0 seed beads to complement yarn color (shown with metallic teal-lined crystal); size 14 (0.75 mm) steel crochet hook to place beads (or size to fit beads and yarn); size 0 (3.25 mm) steel crochet hook for BO; waste yarn for provisional CO; tapestry needle; markers (m).GAUGE 24 sts and 32 rows = 4" in St st after blocking.

10, 12, 14, 16) sts on spare needle with WS facing. Work 2 rows even. With RS tog, use the 3-needle BO to join back of heel. Break yarn leaving 12" tail.

FinishingThread tail at bottom of heel onto tap-estry needle and sew bottom of heel to BO sts of sole. Weave in ends. Machine wash to felt to desired measurements.

EmbroideryWith silver embroidery floss, embroi-der chain st around foot opening and tongue. Using embroidery chart as a guide and centering motif on slipper toe as in photo, use silver embroidery floss to work flower motif on each slip-per. Outline flower and leaves in chain st. Fill flower with Jacobean couching by making long sts diagonally across heart shape and couching threads to slipper at each intersection.


chain st

Jacobean couching

chain st

Jacobean couching

Key

EmbroideryEmbroidery

LISA JACOBS designs nature-inspired patterns for Fiber Tree Designs in Nether Providence, Pennsylvania. Singeli's Silver Slippers has been her favorite fairy tale since her mother read it to her when she was a small child.

pulls you in with song, then wraps around you like seaweed. This piece is named for one water-spirit, from a

Undine Shawlette



NOTE - Mermaid chart shows right-side rows only. Work wrong-side rows as given in key.

Stitch GuidePlace Bead: Knit st, insert crochet hook through hole in bead and slide bead up onto hook. Insert hook pwise into st just knitted (first st on right needle) and transfer to hook. Slide bead down hook and onto st. Place beaded st on left needle, adjust tension as you return st to right needle.

ShawlUsing a provisional method, CO 3 sts. Knit 9 rows (4 ridges of garter st). Pick up and purl 4 sts along one long side of piece. Pick up and knit 3 sts from pro-visional CO, turn. Next row (RS) K3, [yo, k1] 4 times, yo, k3. Next row K3, p9, k3. Beg Mermaid Chart: Work chart


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along bottom edge and pin wires down. The bottom edge should scal-lop. If you do not have flexible, long wires, use a pin in each crochet ch loop to block bottom edge. Allow to dry completely before removing pins and wires. Clip ends.


Rows 1–116, working chart rep 9 times per row. BO using larger size crochet hook as foll: gather 3 sts on hook and bring yarn through all 3. [Crochet ch 6, gather 3 sts, bring yarn through all 3 sts plus final loop from ch] across the row. Break yarn and fasten off.

FinishingWeave in ends on WS. Soak in cool water for 30 minutes and roll in a towel to remove excess water. Block to measurements. Use a semi-rigid wire along top edge and flexible wire

2

3

pattern repeat

k on odd rows and purl on even rows

no stitch

knit stitch and place bead on odd rows and purl on even rows (See Notes)

k on both odd and even rows

k2tog on odd rows and purl on even rows

ssk on odd rows and purl on even rows

sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso (s2kp2) on odd rows and purl on even rows

yo on odd rows and purl on even rows

knit and then purl into the front leg of the stitch on odd rows—1 st inc’d; purl all sts on even rows

knit, purl, and then knit into the front leg of the stitch on odd rows—2 st inc’d; purl all sts on even rows

5 [knit, purl] 2 times and then knit into the front leg of the stitch on odd rows—3 st inc’d; purl all sts on even rows




Key

On RS, knit; on WS, purl

On RS and WS, knit

On RS, k2tog; on WS, purl

On RS, ssk; on WS, purl

On RS, yo; on WS, purl

On RS, knit and then purl into front leg of stitch— 1 st inc’d; on WS, purl both sts

On RS, [knit, purl, knit] into front leg of stitch— 2 sts inc’d; on WS, purl all sts

On RS, [knit, purl, knit, purl, knit] into front leg of stitch—4 sts inc’d; on WS, purl all sts

On RS, [knit, purl, knit, purl, knit, purl, knit] into front leg of stitch—6 sts inc’d; on WS, purl all sts

On RS, [knit, purl, knit, purl, knit, purl, knit, purl, knit] into front leg of stitch—8 sts inc’d; on WS, purl all sts

On RS, [knit, purl, knit, purl, knit, purl, knit, purl, knit, purl, knit] into front leg of stitch—10 sts inc’d; on WS, purl all sts

On RS, knit stitch and place bead (see Stitch Guide); on WS, purl

On RS, sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso (s2kp2); on WS rows, purl

no stitch

pattern repeat

2

3

pattern repeat

k on odd rows and purl on even rows

no stitch

knit stitch and place bead on odd rows and purl on even rows (See Notes)

k on both odd and even rows

k2tog on odd rows and purl on even rows

ssk on odd rows and purl on even rows

sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso (s2kp2) on odd rows and purl on even rows

yo on odd rows and purl on even rows

knit and then purl into the front leg of the stitch on odd rows—1 st inc’d; purl all sts on even rows

knit, purl, and then knit into the front leg of the stitch on odd rows—2 st inc’d; purl all sts on even rows





22

33

55

55

77

77

99

99

99

99

99

99

99

1111

1111

1111

Mermaid ChartMermaid Chart

11975

31

171513

232119

292725

353331

413937

474543

535149

595755

656361

716967

777573

838179

898785

959391

1019997

107105103

113111109

115



Stitch GuideDouble Seed Stitch: (multiple of 4 sts)Row 1 (RS) *K2, p2; rep from * to end.Row 2 (WS) *P2, k2; rep from * to end.Row 3 *P2, k2; rep from * to end.Row 4 *K2, p2; rep from * to end.Rep Rows 1–4 for patt.

SweaterBackWith smaller cir needle and using the Long-tail method, CO 81 (97, 105, 113,

NOTES - The sweater is worked in pieces and seamed. Circular needles are suggested, particularly for the larger sizes, to accommodate the larger number of stitches.

- To make seaming easier, when working the body, slip the first stitch of every row purlwise with yarn in back on RS rows and with yarn in front on WS rows, and knit the last stitch of every row.

Merlin SweaterAnne Podlesak

Some historians believe that a character such as Merlin existed, a druid who was not only mystical but also a political advisor. The Merlin of legend was said to control a pair of dragons under the castle. In medi-eval literature, Merlin was trapped in the trunk of a tree by the Lady of the Lake after he taught her his magic secrets. This design features tree and leaf motifs in a traditional-looking Aran sweater with classic shaping and stitch pattern placement.

FINISHED SIZE 32½ (39½ , 43, 46½ , 50½ , 57½ )" bust/chest circumference. Sweater shown measures 39½ ".YARN Harrisville Designs Watershed (100% wool; 110 yd [120 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]); silver lake 11 (12, 14, 15, 16, 18) skeins.NEEDLES Body and sleeves—size 6 (4 mm): 24" or longer circular (cir). Ribbing and neckband—size 5 (3.75 mm): 24" or longer cir and double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); cable needle (cn); scrap yarn or stitch holders; tapestry needle.GAUGE 18 sts and 26 rows = 4" in Double Seed st on larger needles; 24 sts of Hollow Oak chart = 4¾ "; 15 sts of Leaf Cable chart = 2¾ ".


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121, 137) sts. Do not join. Next row (WS) Sl 1 (see Notes), p8 (16, 20, 24, 28, 36), place marker (pm), p24, pm, p15, pm, p24, pm, p8 (16, 20, 24, 28, 36), k1. Next row (RS) Sl 1, work k2, p2 rib over 8 (16, 20, 24, 28, 36) sts, sl m, work Row 1 of Hollow Oak chart over 24 sts, sl m, work Row 1 of Leaf Cable chart over 15 sts, sl m, work Row 1 of Hollow Oak chart over 24 sts, sl m, work k2, p2 rib over 8 (16, 20, 24, 28, 36) sts, k1. Work in patt as established for 15 more rows, working Rows 1–4 of charts a total of 4 times, ending with a WS row. Change to larger needles. Next row (RS) Sl 1, work Double Seed st (see Stitch Guide) over 8 (16, 20, 24, 28, 36) sts, sl m, work Row 5 of Hollow Oak chart, sl m, work Row 5 of Leaf Cable chart, sl m, work Row 5 of Hollow Oak chart, sl m, work Double Seed st over 8 (16, 20, 24, 28, 36) sts, k1. Work in patt as established, rep Rows 5–28 of charts, until piece measures 16¼ (16½, 17, 17½, 17¾, 18)" from CO, ending with a WS row.Shape armholes: BO 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 12) sts at beg of next 2 rows—69 (83, 89, 95, 101, 113) sts rem. Work even in patt until armhole measures 9 (9½, 10¼, 10½, 10¾, 11)", ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) BO 19 (26, 26, 28, 29, 32) sts in patt, break yarn, place next 31 (31, 37, 39, 43, 49) sts on holder for back neck, join yarn and BO rem 19 (26, 26, 28, 29, 32) sts in patt.

FrontWork as for back until armhole mea-sures 7 (7½, 8¼, 8, 8¼, 8½)", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row

16¼ (16½, 17, 17½, 17¾, 18)"41.5 (42, 43, 44.5, 45, 45.5) cm

6¼ (6¼, 7½, 7¾, 8½, 9¾)"16 (16, 19, 19.5, 21.5, 25) cm

2 (2, 2, 2½, 2½, 2½)"5 (5, 5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5) cm

3¾ (5¼, 5¼, 5½, 5¾, 6½)"9.5 (13.5, 13.5, 14, 14.5, 16.5) cm

9 (9½, 10¼, 10½, 10¾, 11)"23 (24, 26, 26.5, 27.5, 28) cm

back &

front

16¼ (19¾, 21½, 23¼, 25¼, 28¾)"41.5 (50, 54.5, 59, 64, 73) cm9½ (9½, 9½, 11¼, 11¼, 11¼)"

24 (24, 24, 28.5, 28.5, 28.5) cm

17 (18, 19, 19½, 20, 20½)"43 (45.5, 48.5, 49.5, 51, 52) cm

20¼ (21, 22, 22½, 22¾, 23¾)"51.5 (53.5, 56, 57, 58, 60.5) cm

sleeve



Key



yo


k2tog

ssk

p2tog

[p1, yo, p1] in same st

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1, k1 from cn

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, k1, k1 from cn






O

Sleeve

29 sts

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

O

O

Orep as needed

work 4 times

O

O

O

Leaf Cable

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

rep as needed

work 4 times

15 sts

Hollow Oak

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

rep as needed

work 4 times

24 sts

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patt. Sew in sleeves, centering middle of Sleeve chart panel to top of shoul-der seam. Sew side and sleeve seams. Weave in ends.

ANNE PODLESAK’S designs have appeared in publications including Jane Austen Knits and The Unofficial Harry Potter Knits. She also has two self-published collections of fairy-tale themed knitwear as well as individual independently released patterns. She is the indie dyer behind Wooly Wonka Fibers.

(RS) Work 27 (33, 35, 37, 39, 43) sts in patt, break yarn and place these sts on holder for left front, place next 15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 27) sts on holder for center front neck, join yarn and work in patt to end—27 (33, 35, 37, 39, 43) sts rem for right front.Right front: Work 1 WS row in patt. At beg of every RS row, BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6) sts once, then BO 1 st 5 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times—19 (26, 26, 28, 29, 32) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 9 (9½, 10¼, 10½, 10¾, 11)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts in patt.Left front: With WS facing, return 27 (33, 35, 37, 39, 43) left front sts to needle and join yarn. At beg of every WS row, BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6) sts once, then BO 1 st 5 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times—19 (26, 26, 28, 29, 32) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 9 (9½, 10¼, 10½, 10¾, 11)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts in patt.

SleevesWith smaller cir needle and using the Long-tail method, CO 47 (47, 47, 55, 55, 55) sts. Do not join. Next row (WS) K1, pm, p8 (8, 8, 12, 12, 12), pm, p29, pm, p8 (8, 8, 12, 12, 12), pm, k1. Note: Knit first and last st of every row for selvedge. Next row (RS) K1, sl m, work k2, p2 rib over 8 (8, 8, 12, 12, 12) sts, sl m, work Row 1 of Sleeve chart over 29 sts, sl m, work k2, p2 rib over 8 (8, 8, 12, 12, 12) sts, sl m, k1. Work in patt as established for 15 more rows, working Rows 1–4 of chart a total of 4 times, ending with a WS row. Change to larger needles. Notes: On next row, work Row 5 of Sleeve chart and then rep Rows 5–28 as needed to end of sleeve. Work added sts in Double Seed st patt. Inc row (RS) K1, sl m, M1L, work Double Seed st to m, sl m, work Sleeve chart over 29 sts, sl m, work Double Seed st to next m, M1R, sl m, k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 4th row 23 (25, 27, 24, 25, 27) more times—95 (99, 103, 105, 107, 111) sts. Work even in patt until sleeve measures 17 (18, 19, 19½, 20, 20½)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts in patt.

FinishingBlock pieces to measurements. Sew shoulder seams, matching st patt as evenly as possible across seam.

Neckband: Place 31 (31, 37, 39, 43, 49) back neck sts on dpn and join yarn. Next rnd K31 (31, 37, 39, 43, 49) back neck sts, pick up and knit 15 (16, 16, 16, 17, 18) sts along left front neck edge, k15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 27) center front neck sts from holder, pick up and knit 15 (16, 16, 16, 17, 18) sts along right front neck edge—76 (80, 88, 92, 100, 112) sts. Pm and join in rnd. Work in k2, p2 rib for 2 (2, 2½, 2½, 2½, 2½)". Loosely BO all sts in



Kitsunetsuki CardiganDesigned by Emma Welford. PAGE 104. YARN: Valley Yarns Colrain, distributed by WEBS.

Nat re’s Magicn The gleaming moon, a glowering tree, a furtive fox—the earthly sources of fairy stories.


EK_098-103_G_Natures_Magic.indd 98 6/30/14 2:30 PM


Butterfly Fairy TankDesigned by Izumi Ouchi. PAGE 110.

YARN: Dream in Color Starry.

EK_098-103_G_Natures_Magic.indd 100 6/26/14 10:54 AM


Chloris SontagDesigned by T. L. Alexandria Volk. PAGE 112. YARN: Crystal Palace Yarns Mochi Plus and Crystal Palace Yarns Kid Merino.


The Entwife’s CoatDesigned by Theressa Silver. PAGE 116. YARN: Manos del Uruguay Wool Clasica, distributed by Fairmount Fibers.


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Bamboo Princess Baby Blanket and HatDesigned by Kim Driggs. PAGE 120. YARN: Sirdar Snuggly Baby Bamboo Double Knitting, distributed by Knitting Fever.

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33 (37, 41, 45, 49, 53)"84 (94, 104, 114.5, 124.5,

134.5) cm

body

5½ (6, 7, 7½ , 8, 8½ )"14 (15, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5) cm

17"43 cm

31 (35, 39, 43, 47, 51)"78.5 (89, 99, 109, 119.5, 129.5) cm

25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 45)"63.5 (73.5, 84, 94, 104, 114.5) cm

6½ (7, 7½ , 8, 8½ , 9)"16.5 (18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23) cm

4 (4¼ , 4¼ , 4½ , 4¾ , 5)"10 (11, 11, 11.5, 12, 12.5) cm

10 (11½ , 12½ , 14, 15, 15½ )"25.5 (29, 32, 35.5, 38, 39.5) cm

14 (14, 14, 15¼ , 15¼ , 15¼ )"35.5 (35.5, 35.5, 38.5, 38.5, 38.5) cm

7¾ (9½ , 10¼ , 12, 13, 13½ )"19.5 (24, 26, 30.5, 33, 34.5) cm

8 (9¾ , 10½ , 12¼ , 13½ , 13¾ )"20.5 (25, 26.5, 31, 34.5, 35) cm

Kitsunetsuki CardiganEmma Welford

Kitsune is the Japanese word for fox, though it also refers to the fox spirits prevalent in Japanese mythology. Able to shift between human and animal form, kitsune frequently appear as beautiful women in order to trick humans or to offer them magical support. A kitsune can be distinguished by its multiple tails, most commonly five or nine. More tails come with long life—only the wisest and oldest kitsune possess nine tails. Kitsunet-suki is a sleek cardigan designed to bring out the fox in you. Its fitted shape emphasizes the figure, while details on the front resemble a fox’s head and the five-strand cable on the back recalls the five tails of a kitsune.

FINISHED SIZE 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52)" bust circumference, buttoned. Cardigan shown measures 32".YARN Valley Yarns Colrain (50% Merino, 50% Tencel; 109 yd [99 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): Navajo red, 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11) balls. Yarn distributed by WEBS.NEEDLES Body and buttonband—size 8 (5 mm): 40" circular (cir). Sleeves—size 8 (5 mm): double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); cable needle (cn); stitch holders; tapestry needle; seven ¾ " buttons.GAUGE 16 sts and 22 rows = 4" in St st.


NOTES - The body of this cardigan is worked back and forth in one piece from the lower edge to the underarms. The sleeves are worked sepa-rately in the round, then the sleeves and body are joined to work the yoke.

- Each Front chart shows two sizes: the chart for the smaller size is outlined in color, while the whole chart applies to the larger size.

- A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches.

CardiganBodyWith cir needle, CO 132 (148, 164, 180, 196, 212) sts. Do not join. Next row (RS) K3, p1, [k1, p1] 13 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23) times, pm, [k1, p1] 2 times, k1, pm, [p1, k1] 5 (7, 9, 11, 13, 15) times, p1, pm, [k1, p1] 2 times, [k2, p3] 4 times, k2, [p1, k1] 7 times, pm, [p1, k1] 5 (7, 9, 11, 13, 15) times, p1, pm, [k1, p1] 2 times, k1, pm, [p1, k1] 13 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23) times, p1, k3. Work sts as they appear for 1", ending with a WS row. Set-up row (RS) K3, purl to m, sl m, [k1, p1] 2 times, k1, sl m, purl to m, sl m, work Row 1 of Back chart over 40 sts, sl m, purl

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EK_104-121_Natures_Magic.indd 104 6/26/14 11:06 AM


6½ (7, 7½ , 8, 8½ , 9)"16.5 (18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23) cm

to m, sl m, [k1, p1] 2 times, k1, sl m, purl to last 3 sts, k3. Next row (WS) P3, knit to m, sl m, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, sl m, knit to m, work chart to m, sl m, knit to m, sl m, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, sl m, knit to last 3 sts, p3. Dec row (RS) K3, purl to 2 sts before m, p2tog, sl m, rib to m, sl m, p2tog, purl to m, sl m, work chart to m, sl m, purl to 2 sts before m, p2tog, sl m, rib to m, sl m, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, k3—4 sts dec’d. Cont in patt as established, rep Dec row every 4th row 7 more times—100 (116, 132, 148, 164, 180) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 8 (8, 8, 8½ , 8½ , 8½ )" from CO, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) K3, purl to m, M1P, sl m, rib to m, sl m, M1P, purl to m, sl m, work chart to m, sl m, purl to m, M1P, sl m, rib to m, sl m, M1P, purl to last 3 sts, k3—4 sts inc’d: 1 st each front, 2 back sts. Rep Inc row every 4th row 3 (3, 2, 1, 0, 0) more time(s)—116 (132, 144, 156, 168, 184) sts. Work 3 (1, 1, 3, 3, 1) row(s) even.All Sizes: Note: Front incs appear on charts; back incs should be worked between 5-st ribs on same rows as front incs as foll: sl m, M1P, work back sts in patt to next rib m, M1P, sl m—2 back sts inc’d.Beg Front Charts: Next row (RS) Work Right Front chart for your size over 26 (30, 33, 36, 39, 43) sts, sl m, work in patt to last m, sl m, work Left Front chart for your size over 26 (30, 33, 36, 39, 43) sts. Cont in patts as established to last row of charts—124 (140, 156, 172, 188, 204) sts: 58 (66, 74, 82, 90, 98) back sts, 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48) sts each front, and 5 rib sts each side; piece measures about 14 (14, 14, 15¼ , 15¼ , 15¼ )" from CO. Set aside. Do not break yarn.

SleevesWith dpn, CO 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36) sts. Pm and join in the

87

85

83

81

79

77

75

73

71

69

67

65

63

61

59

57

55

53

51

49

47

45

43

41

39

37

35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Back

40 sts



rnd. Work in k1, p1 ribbing for 1". Knit 1 rnd. Inc rnd K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 6th rnd 9 (11, 12, 14, 15, 15) more times—46 (52, 56, 62, 66, 68) sts. Work even until sleeve measures 17" from CO. Place first and last 3 sts on holder—40 (46, 50, 56, 60, 62) sts rem. Place rem sts on 2nd holder.

YokeJoining row (RS) Return to the body to join body and sleeves tog. Work in patt across 27 (31, 35, 39, 43, 47) sts of right front, place next 6 sts on holder, pm, knit across 40 (46, 50, 56, 60, 62) sts of one sleeve, pm, work in patt across 58 (66, 74, 82, 90, 98) back sts, place next 6 sts on holder, pm, knit across 40 (46, 50, 56, 60, 62) sts of other sleeve, pm, work in patt across 27 (31, 35, 39, 43, 47) sts of left front—192 (220, 244, 272, 296, 316) sts. Work 1 WS row even. Note: When you have finished working the Back chart, switch to St st over all back sts and work any rem back decs as k2tog instead of p2tog. Dec row (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, p2tog, work across back to 2 sts before m, p2tog, sl m, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before next m, ssk, sl m, k2tog, knit to end—8 sts dec’d; 1 st each front, 2 sts each sleeve, 2 back sts. Work 1 WS row even. Dec row K1, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, p2tog, work across back to 2 sts before m, p2tog, sl m, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before next m, ssk, sl m, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—10 sts dec’d; 2 sts each front, 2 sts each sleeve, 2 back sts. Work 1 WS row even. Rep last 2 rows 1 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11) more time(s)—164 (172, 176, 184, 188, 188) sts rem. Dec row K1, ssk, knit to m, sl m, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, work to m, sl m, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—6 sts dec’d; 1 st each front, 2 sts each sleeve. Work 1 WS row even. Rep last 2 rows 6 (5, 5, 4, 3, 2) more

M

M

32" & 36" Left Front

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

26 (30) sts inc’d to 28 (32) sts

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

M

M

M

M


25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

33 (36) sts inc’d to 36 (40) sts

M

M

M

M

M


31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

139 (43) sts inc’d to 44 (48) sts

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ic



M

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

M1

sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k2,

p1 from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front. p1,

k2 from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2,

p2 from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p2,

k2 from cn

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back,

k2, k2 from cn on RS rows; sl 2

sts onto cn, hold in back, p2, p2

from cn on WS rows

sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front,

k2, k2 from cn on RS rows; sl 2

sts onto cn, hold in front, p2, p2

from cn on WS rows

Size 32"

Size 40"

Size 48"

Key

M

M

32" & 36" Right Front

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

126 (30) sts inc’d to 28 (32) sts

M

M

M

M


25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

33 (36) sts inc’d to 36 (40) sts

M

M

M

M

M

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1


39 (43) sts inc’d to 44 (48) sts



times—122 (136, 140, 154, 164, 170) sts rem. Dec row Work to m, sl m, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, work to m, sl m, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, sl m, work to end—4 sts dec’d; 2 sts each sleeve. Work 1 WS row even. Rep last 2 rows 5 (7, 7, 9, 10, 10) more times—98 (104, 108, 114, 120, 126) sts rem.

Right Front ShoulderNext row Knit to m, sl m, ssk, turn—1 st dec’d. Next row Sl 1 st pwise, purl to end. Rep last 2 rows 2 more times—16 (17, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts rem. Place sts on holder, do not break yarn.

Right Back ShoulderWith yarn attached to middle of right sleeve cap, k4 rem sleeve cap sts, sl m, k15 (16, 16, 17, 18, 19) sts of back, turn. Next row Purl to m, sl m, p2tog, turn—1 st dec’d. Next row Sl 1 st pwise, knit to end. Rep last 2 rows 2 more times—16 (17, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts rem.

Place sts on holder, break yarn. Place next 22 (24, 28, 30, 32, 34) sts on holder for back neck.

Left Back ShoulderAttach yarn after back sts have been set aside. Next row K15 (16, 16, 17, 18, 19), sl m, ssk, turn—1 st dec’d. Next row Sl 1 st pwise, purl to end. Rep last 2 rows 2 more times—16 (17, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts rem. Place sts on holder, do not break yarn.

Left Front ShoulderWith yarn attached to middle of right sleeve cap, knit 4 rem sleeve cap sts, sl m, knit to end of left front, turn. Next row Purl to m, sl m, p2tog, turn—1 st dec’d. Next row Sl 1 st pwise, knit to end. Rep last 2 rows 2 more times—16 (17, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts rem. Place sts on holder, break yarn.

FinishingUse Kitchener st to graft tops of shoulders and underarms.Buttonband: Starting at bottom right front, pick up and knit 65 (67, 69, 71, 73, 75) sts until you reach sts set aside for back

neck, knit across 22 (24, 28, 30, 32, 34) held sts, pick up and knit 66 (68, 70, 72, 74, 76) sts along left front—153 (159, 167, 173, 179, 185) sts. Next row (WS) Sl 1, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2. Next row Sl 1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Work 1 row even. On left front of sweater, mark placement of bottom button ½ " from bottom edge and top button where neckline shaping beg. Evenly space other 5 buttons between these 2, and mark placement of cor-responding buttonholes on right front. Buttonhole row Work in patt to each m then make 2-st buttonhole using the 1-row method, then cont in patt to end. Work in patt until band measures 1" then BO all sts in patt. Weave in ends, sew on buttons, and block.

EMMA WELFORD is a lifetime lover of fairy tales and mythology from all backgrounds. She lives in Greenfield, Massachusetts, with her two cats, Kitsune and Tsuki. Find her online at www.emmawelford.com.

Among the Birches Shawl

Kate Larson

Norway is known for its tales of trolls, but there is also a long oral tradition surrounding the Hidden Folk. Huldra, the elf-maiden who is sometimes helpful and sometimes dangerous, is one of the best-known characters. Known as a keen observer who might warn of impending danger and reward kindness with kindness, Huldra might also lure adults and children into the forest for nefarious ends. This lace pattern with a birch leaf motif is worked with lace on right-side and wrong-side rows to create a pattern that is completely reversible—perfect for wraps, scarves, and cowls.

FINISHED SIZE About 12" wide and 72" long.YARN Malabrigo Lace (100% Merino; 470 yds [430 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): 51 vaa, 2 skeins.NEEDLES Size 3 (3.25 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Cable needle; tapestry needle.GAUGE 28 sts and 28 rows = 4" in lace pattern, blocked.


Stitch GuideSk2p: Sl 1 knitwise (kwise), k2tog, pass sl st over—2 sts dec’d.

Sl 1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts,

responding buttonholes on right front.

1-row method, then cont in patt to end. Work in patt until band measures 1" then BO all sts in patt. Weave in ends, sew on

FINISHED SIZEand 72" long.YARN Merino; 470 yds [430 m]/1¾ oz

Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

needle.GAUGE lace pattern, blocked.

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Cross Stitch:With cable needle: Place next 2 sts on cable needle and hold to back, k1, return sts from cable needle to left needle. Place next st onto cable needle and hold to front, (k1, yo, k1) in next st, return st from cable needle to left needle, resume working row.Without cable needle: Insert right needle purlwise (pwise) in front of first 2 sts into 3rd st on left needle. Carefully slide the 3 sts off left needle tip and reinsert left needle behind 3rd st into sts 1 and 2. Return 3rd st to left needle, k1. Insert right needle pwise behind new first st into 2nd st on left needle. Carefully slide the 2 sts off the left needle and reinsert left needle in front of 2nd st into 1st st. Return rem st to left needle. (K1, yo, k1) in first st on left needle, then resume working row.

NOTE - Slip all stitches pwise with yarn in back (wyb) unless otherwise noted.

WrapWith yarn held double and using cable method, CO 85 sts (multiple of 14 sts + 1). Break one strand and cont working with a single strand only.Set-up row (WS) P2, *k7, p2, k1, (p1, yo, p1) into next st, k1, p2; rep from * 4 more times, k7, p2, k1, (p1, yo, p1) into next st, k2—97 sts.Row 1 (RS) Sl 1, p1, *[k1, yo] 2 times, k1, p2tog, yo, k1, p7, k2tog, yo, p1; rep from * to last 15 sts, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, p2tog, yo, k1, p7, k2—109 sts.Row 2 Sl 1, p1, *ssk, k3, k2tog, p2tog, yo, k1, p5, k2tog, yo, p1; rep from * to last 17 sts, ssk, k3, k2tog, p2tog, yo, k1, p5, k2—97 sts rem.Row 3 Sl 1, p1, *k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2tog, yo, k1, p5, k2tog, yo, p1; rep from * to last 15 sts, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2tog, yo, k1, p5, k2—109 sts.Row 4 Sl 1, p1, *ssk, k1, k2tog, p2tog, yo, k1, p7, k2tog, yo, p1; rep from * to last 17 sts, ssk, k1, k2tog, p2tog, yo, k1, p7, k2—97 sts rem.Row 5 Sl 1, p1, *k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p2tog, yo, k1, p3, k2tog, yo, p1; rep from * to last 15 sts, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p2tog, yo, k1, p3, k2—109 sts.Row 6 Sl 1, p1, *sk2p (see Stitch Guide), p2tog, yo, k1, p9, k2tog, yo, p1; rep from * to last 17 sts, sk2p, p2tog, yo, k1, p9, k2—97 sts rem.

Row 7 Sl 1, p1, *ssk, k5, k2tog, p2tog, yo, Cross Stitch (see Stitch Guide), k2tog, yo, p1; rep from * to last 15 sts, ssk, k5, k2tog, p2tog, yo, Cross Stitch, k2.Rows 8–14 Rep Rows 1–7.Cont to rep Rows 1–14, ending with Row 6 or 13 when piece measures about 62" (unblocked) or desired length. BO with yarn held double in patt as foll: p2, *ssk, k5, k2tog, p2, k3tog, p2; rep from * to last 15 sts, ssk, k5, k2tog, p2, k3tog, k1.

FinishingWeave in ends and block.

KATE LARSON believes that life’s enduring lessons are captured in folktales—that these stories can teach us to search for patterns and cycles that shed light on the paths we forge. When she isn’t spinning, knitting, teaching, or writing, she can be found in the barn with her ever-growing f lock of sheep in Indiana. Find her at www.katelarsontextiles.com.



Butterfly Fairy Tank

Izumi Ouchi

This A-line top with butterfly lace motifs is inspired by butterfly fairies—a popular imaginary friend children may have from enchanted stories. Two butterfly lace motifs are worked for the front and one for the back. After being sewn together at sides and shoulders, the tank is finished with a crocheted edge around armholes. A hint of Lurex adds a touch of shimmer through-out the fabric.

FINISHED SIZE 31 (32½ , 35, 36½ , 38½ , 40½ , 42½ )" bust circumfer-ence. Sample shown measures 31".YARN Dream in Color Starry (98% superwash Merino, 2% Lurex; 450 yd [411 m]/4 oz [113 g]): #140 spring tickle, 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) skeins.NEEDLES Size 4 (3.50 mm): straight. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); tapestry needle; size D/3 (3.25 mm) crochet hook.GAUGE 23 sts and 38 rows = 4" in St st.

See knittingdaily.com/glossary for terms you don’t know. See crochetme.com/glossary for crochet terms you don’t know.

Stitch GuideFilet Crochet Edging:Ch 3 and skip next edge st, *dc in next edge st, ch 1, skip next edge st;

front &

back

9½ (10, 11¼ , 11½ , 12¼ , 12½ , 12¾ )"24 (25.5, 28.5, 29, 31, 31.5, 32) cm

4¾ (5, 5¼ , 5½ , 5½ , 5¾ , 6)"12 (12.5, 13.5, 14, 14, 14.5, 15) cm

15½ (16¼ , 17½ , 18¼ , 19¼ , 20¼ , 21¼ )"39.5 (41.5, 44.5, 46.5, 49, 51.5, 54) cm

17½ (18½ , 19½ , 20¼ , 21½ , 22¼ , 23¼ )"44.5 (47, 49.5, 51.5, 54.5, 56.5, 59) cm

15"38 cm

7 (7½ , 8, 8½ , 9, 9½ , 10)"18 (19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm

¾ "2 cm

1½ "3.8 cm

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31 sts

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

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3

1

Butter�yButterfly

31 sts

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

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yo

k2tog on RS; p2tog on WS

sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso (s2kp2)

Key

rep from * to end, sl st to second ch of beg ch-3 to join in the rnd.

TankBackCO 101 (106, 112, 117, 123, 128, 134) sts. Note: Body shaping and but-terfly patt occur simultaneously; read through the foll section before proceeding.Work in St st for 2", ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) K5, place marker (pm), work Butterfly chart over next 31 sts, pm, knit to end. Cont working butterfly patt as established between m, working sts outside of m in St st. At the same time, shape body: Work 19 rows in patt. Dec row K1, k2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every 20th row 5 more times—89 (94, 100, 105, 111, 116, 122) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 15" from CO edge, end-ing with a WS row.Shape armholes: (RS) BO 5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12) sts at beg of next 2 rows—79 (82, 88, 91, 95, 96, 98) sts rem. Work 4 rows. Dec row (RS) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every 4th row 3 more times—71 (74, 80, 83, 87, 88, 90) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 7 (7½ , 8, 8½ , 9, 9½ , 10)", ending with a WS row. Shape neck and shoulders: (RS) K12, join second ball of yarn and BO center 47 (50, 56, 59, 63, 64, 66) sts for neck, knit to end—12 sts rem each side.

Working each side separately, BO 2 sts at armhole edge 4 times and at the same time, dec 1 st at each neck edge every RS row 4 times—1 st rem. Fasten off.

FrontWork as for back until piece mea-sures 10½ " from CO, ending with a

WS row. Next row (RS) Work to last 36 sts, pm, work Butterfly chart over next 31 sts, pm, work to end. Cont in patt as established until piece measures 15" from CO, ending with a WS row—89 (94, 100, 105, 111, 116, 122) sts rem. Shape armholes as for back, then work even until armhole measures 3 (3¼ , 3½ , 3¾ , 4¼ , 4½ ,



FINISHED SIZE 40 (47½ )" across upper edge and 20 (20½ )" tall, excluding ties.YARN Crystal Palace Yarns Mochi Plus (80% Merino, 20% nylon; 95 yd [87 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #603 spice market (MC), 3 balls; #557 autumn rainbow (CC1) and #574 leaves and sprouts (CC2), 2 (3) balls each.Crystal Palace Yarns Kid Merino (28% kid mohair, 28% Merino, 44% microfiber nylon; 240 yd [219 m]/7⁄8oz [25 g]): #6018 heather (CC3), #6016 cornsilk (CC4), and #6021 basil (CC5), 1 ball each.NEEDLES Body—size 10 (6 mm). Ties—size 8 (5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.HOOKS Motifs—size I/9 (5.5 mm). Chain webbing—size H/8 (5 mm).NOTIONS Markers (m); stitch hold-ers; tapestry needle; one 5⁄8" snap.GAUGE 16 sts and 34 rows = 4" in garter st with MC on larger needles.

See knittingdaily.com/glossary for terms you don’t know. See crochetme.com/glossary for crochet terms you don’t know.

Chloris is a name with many faces in Greek mythology, but this wrap is inspired by the nymph better known by the Latin name Flora. Goddess of flowers, greenness, and growth, she was said to be the wife of Zephyrus, the West Wind. Mixing crochet with knitting, this lush piece takes a utilitarian bit of warmth from the past—the sontag, or bosom friend—and updates it with plush reversed textures, lacy motifs, and thick-and-thin yarn combinations for a signature accessory that will still ward off a bit of chill.

Chloris SontagT. L . A lexandr ia Volk

4¾ )", ending with a WS row—71 (74, 80, 83, 87, 88, 90) sts rem.Shape neck: (RS) K24, join second ball of yarn and BO center 23 (26, 32, 35, 39, 40, 42) sts for neck, knit to end—24 sts rem each side. Work-ing each side separately, at each neck edge, BO 3 sts once, then BO 2 sts once, then dec 1 st every RS row 9 times, and every other RS row 2 times—8 sts rem each side. Work even until armhole measures 7 (7½ , 8, 8½ , 9, 9½ , 10)".Shape shoulder: Working each side separately, BO 2 sts at each armhole edge 4 times—1 st rem. Fasten off.

FinishingBlock pieces to measurements. With yarn threaded on tapestry needle, sew shoulder and side seams.Crochet edge for bottom, neck, and armhole edges (optional): With cro-chet hook and RS facing, join yarn to edge. Work Filet Crochet Edging (see Stitch Guide) around. Weave in ends. Block again, if desired.

IZUMI OUCHI is a coauthor of several Japanese knitting books and a contributor to United States knitting magazines. Izumi teaches Ipponbari knitting in Nagano, Japan. Her website is www.izumiknittingdesign.jimdo.com.

Chloris is a name with many faces in

inspired by the nymph better known by the Latin name Flora. Goddess of flowers, greenness, and growth, she was said to be the wife of Zephyrus, the West Wind. Mixing crochet with

past—the sontag, or bosom friend—and updates it with plush reversed

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every 4th row once more—34 sts; Row 17 of patt is complete. Work 2 rows even. Using CC1 as color 1 and CC2 as color 2, work 1 row even. Rep Inc row on next row, then every 4th row 11 (15) more times—46 (50) sts; Row 17 of patt is complete. Work 1 row even. Next row (Row 19 of patt) Work in patt to m, remove m, k10, pm, knit to end.Flip RS/WS: With CC2, knit 1 row. Next row (new RS row) Using CC2 as color 1 and MC as color 2, work Row 4 of Honeycomb patt to m, knit to end. Cont in patt, rep Inc row on next row, then every 4th row 7 more times—54 (58) sts; Row 17 of patt is complete. Work 2 rows even. Next row (Row 4 of patt) Work in patt to m, remove m, k10, pm, knit to end. Working patt over 50 sts, rep Inc row on next row, then every 4th row 3 (7) more times—58 (66) sts; Row 17 of patt is complete. Work 2 rows even. BO all sts.

Back NeckWith MC and larger needles, CO 12 (14) sts. Knit 1 row. Inc row K1f&b, knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1—2 sts inc’d. Next row Knit. Rep last 2 rows 7 more times—28 (30) sts. Work 4 (6) rows

Popcorn (PC): 3 tr in same sp, remove hook from working loop and insert it through top of first tr, catch working loop and pull it through tightly.

SontagFront and Shoulder (Make 2)With MC and larger needles, CO 15 sts. Work 4 rows in garter st. Change to CC1. Inc row (WS) K1, k1f&b, knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1—2 sts inc’d. Next row Knit. Change to MC. Rep last 2 rows—19 sts. Change to CC1. Rep last 2 rows—21 sts. Next row (WS) Using MC as color 1 and CC1 as color 2, work Row 1 of Honeycomb patt (see Stitch Guide) over 20 sts, pm, k1f&b—22 sts. Next row K2, work Row 2 of Honeycomb patt to end. Inc row (WS) Work in patt to m, knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1—1 st inc’d. Rep Inc row every WS row 7 more times—30 sts; Row 17 of patt is complete. Work 3 rows even. Rep Inc row on next row, then every 4th row once more—32 sts; Row 9 of patt is complete. Work 1 row even. Next row (Row 11 of patt) Work in patt to m, remove m, k10, pm, k2. Work 1 row even, working patt over 30 sts. Rep Inc row on next row, then

NOTES - The two front and shoulder pieces of the shawl are worked exactly the same. During assembly, one is placed right side up and the other is placed wrong side up to create a mir-rored shape with reversed patterns.

- If you are unfamiliar with crochet-ing mohair-blend yarn at a loose gauge, or working with mohair and a heavier-gauge yarn, work a practice motif first to get comfortable.

- Both the right side and the wrong side will be seen on the public side of the piece.

- If you weave your ends in carefully, the piece is fully reversible.

- Do not block the front and shoulder sections. The key to this piece is the heavy, unblocked texture of the pattern. To launder, soak gently, do not agitate, and lay flat to dry, as the yarn is prone to felting even with gentle agitation and the texture of the piece may be compromised if it is wrung out or twisted.

Stitch GuideHoneycomb: (multiple of 10 sts)Row 1 (WS) With color 1, purl.Row 2 (RS) With color 2, knit.Row 3 With color 2, knit.Rows 4–9 With color 1, work 6 rows in St st, beg with a knit row.Row 10 With color 2, *[pick up 1 color 2 st from Row 2 and place it on left needle, k2tog through back loop (tbl)] 3 times, k7; rep from *.Row 11 With color 2, knit.Rows 12–17 With color 1, work 6 rows in St st, beg with a knit row.Row 18 With color 2, *k5, [pick up 1 color 2 st from Row 10 and place it on left needle, k2tog tbl] 3 times, k2; rep from *.Row 19 With color 2, knit.Rep Rows 4–19 for patt.

Honeycomb adapted from Pop Knitting: Bold Motifs Using Color & Stitch by Britt-Marie Christof-fersson (Interweave, 2012); used with permission.

Spike Single Crochet (Ssc): Insert hook into top of st in Rnd 1, yo, draw loop through and up to height of current rnd, yo, draw through both loops on hook.



even. Dec row K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—2 sts dec’d. Next row Knit. Rep last 2 rows 11 (12) more times—4 sts rem. Next row K2tog, ssk—2 sts rem. Next row Knit. BO all sts.

Large Halley’s Comet Motif (Make 2)Note: Instructions are written for first (2nd) motif.Base ring With larger hook and CC2 (CC1), ch 4, join with sl st to form ring.Rnd 1 Ch 5, [dc in ring, ch 2] 7 times, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 5—8 ch-2 sp.Rnd 2 Ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, [dc in next dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp] 7 times, sl st in top of beg ch 3—32 sts.Fasten off. Join CC3 (CC5).Rnd 3 Ch 1, Ssc (see Stitch Guide) over first st, ch 3, sl st in top of Ssc, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st**, Ssc over next st, ch 3, sl st in top of Ssc; rep from * 6 more times, then work from * to ** again, sl st in first Ssc.Fasten off.

Small Halley’s Comet Motif (Make 2)Note: Instructions are written for first (2nd) motif.Base ring With larger hook and CC5 (CC1), ch 4, join with sl st to form ring.Rnd 1 Ch 5, [dc in ring, ch 2] 5 times, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 5—6 ch-2 sp.Fasten off. Join CC1 (CC5).Rnd 2 Ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, [dc in next dc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp] 5 times, sl st in top of beg ch 3—24 sts.Fasten off. Join CC4 (CC1).Rnd 3 Ch 1, Ssc over first st, ch 3, sl st in top of Ssc, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st**, Ssc over next st, ch 3, sl st in top of Ssc; rep from * 4 more times, then work from * to ** again, sl st in first Ssc.Fasten off.

Moorish Medallion (Make 1)Base ring With larger hook and CC2, ch 6, join with sl st to form ring.Rnd 1 Ch 1, 16 sc in ring, sl st in first sc—16 sts.Fasten off. Join CC3.Rnd 2 Ch 1, sc in same place as ch 1, sc in next sc, *(sc, ch 9, sc) in next sc, sc in each of next 3 sc; rep from * 2 more times, (sc, ch 9, sc) in next sc, sc in next sc, sl st in first sc.Fasten off. Join CC4.Rnd 3 Ch 1, sc in same place as ch 1, *skip next sc, work (2 hdc, 17 dc, 2 hdc) in next ch-9 arch, skip next sc,

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BackNeck

HeleniumCircle

EasternStar

EasternStar

LargeHalley’sComet

SmallHalley’sComet

LargeHalley’sComet

SmallHalley’sComet

MoorishMedallion

Honeycomb(WS)

Honeycomb(RS)

Honeycomb(WS)

Honeycomb(RS)

sc in next sc; rep from * 3 more times, omitting sc at end of last rep, sl st in first sc.Fasten off. Join CC1.Rnd 4 Ch 1, Ssc over first st, *ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc in next st, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, [ch 5, skip 4 sts, sc in next st, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook] 2 times, ch 5, skip 5 sts, Ssc over next st; rep from * 3 more times, omitting Ssc at end of last rep, sl st in first Ssc.Fasten off.

Helenium Circle (Make 1)With MC, make a loop; work into this loop on first rnd. With larger hook, work as foll.Rnd 1 Ch 3, 15 dc in loop, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 3—16 sts.Fasten off. Join CC4.Rnd 2 Ch 4, (dc, ch 1) in each of next 15 dc, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 4.Fasten off. Join CC1 to any ch-1 sp.Rnd 3 Ch 4, 2 tr in same sp, remove hook from working loop and insert through 4th ch of beg ch 4, catch working loop and pull it through, [ch 3, PC (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-sp] 15 times, ch 3, sl st in 4th ch of beg ch 4.

Fasten off. Join CC5 to any ch-3 sp.Rnd 4 Ch 1, 3 sc in same ch-sp, [ch 5, 3 sc in next ch-sp] 15 times, ch 2, dc in beg ch 1.Fasten off. Join CC2 to any ch-5 sp.Rnd 5 Ch 1, [ch 4, sc in next ch-5 sp] 15 times, ch 4, sl st in beg ch 1.Fasten off. Join CC5 to any ch-4 sp.Rnd 6 Ch 1, 5 sc in same ch-sp, [ch 5, 5 sc in next ch-sp] 15 times, ch 5, sl st in beg ch 1.Fasten off.

Helenium Circle adapted from 75 Floral Blocks to Crochet: Beautiful Patterns to Mix and Match for Afghans, Throws,

Baby Blankets, and More by Betty Barnden (St. Martin’s Griffin, 2012); used with permission.

Eastern Star (Make 2)Note: Instructions are written for first (2nd) motif.Base ring With larger hook and CC1 (MC), ch 6, join with sl st to form ring.Rnd 1 Ch 1, [sc in ring, ch 3] 12 times,

sl st in first sc—12 ch-3 sp.Fasten off. Join CC5 (CC3).Rnd 2 Sl st in each of next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 11 times, ch 1, hdc in top of first sc.Fasten off. Join CC1.Rnd 3 *Ch 6, sc in next ch-3 sp**, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp; rep from * 4 more times, then work from * to ** again, ch 1, dc in hdc.Fasten off. Join CC3 (CC4).Rnd 4 *(5 dc, ch 2, 5 dc) in next ch-6 arch, sc in next ch-3 sp; rep from * 5 more times, ending last rep with sc in dc of Rnd 3, sl st in next st.Fasten off.

FinishingWeave in ends. Join fronts to back neck as shown in assembly diagram. Arrange motifs as shown in diagram. With MC and smaller hook, join mo-tifs to front, back, and each other with ch st, zigzagging around central and other motifs. Shawl is asymmetric. Lift piece by corners and hold up to check that piece is hanging well—it takes less chaining than you think to secure motifs. With MC and larger hook, work picot edging along lower edge of each front as foll: *Sc in next 4 rows, (sc, ch 4, sc) in next row; rep from * to last 4 rows, sc in next 4 rows. Fasten off. Ties: With MC, smaller needles, and RS facing, pick up and knit 14 sts along CO edge of front. Work in k1, p1 rib for 12 (14)". Place sts on holder. Try on shawl, wrapping ties around you; there should be about 1½" of overlap when wrapped snugly around underbust. Work more rows if needed. BO all sts. Weave in ends. Sew half of snap to each end of tie. Variation: Work each tie to 36 (42)", omit snap, and tie into a bow in back or wrap to front and tie. This requires an extra ball or two of MC.

T. L. ALEXANDRIA VOLK learned how to use both a sewing machine and an arc welder before the age of ten. She is an experiential academic, learning through experimentation and re-creation as well as research, and has degrees in biology, art studio, art history, and poetics, and certification in Cultural Heritage Preservation and Theatrical Millinery. She is the costume shop manager of the Great Dickens Christmas Fair. She enjoys a challenge and a good read.



The Entwife’s CoatTheressa Si lver

The beautiful Entwives were partners to the Ents of Middle-earth, helping to tend and protect growing things. But they left their husbands to create lush gardens in the East. With the rise of Sauron, the Entwives mysteri-ously vanished, leaving just the memory of their existence. This poignant tale from J. R. R. Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings is the inspiration for a warm and feminine coat. Heavily decorated with flowers, leaves, fruits, and bark texture, it embodies the exuberant lushness and fertility of their gardens, while the wrap closure and heavy yarn create a garment that is warm and nurturing in its feel.

FINISHED SIZE 27½ (32, 36½ , 43½ , 48, 52½ )" chest circumfer-ence, buttoned. Coat shown measures 32".YARN Manos del Uruguay Wool Clasica (100% wool; 138 yd [126 m]/3½ oz [100 g]): #129 pressed flower, 9 (11, 14, 17, 21, 25) skeins.Yarn distributed by Fairmount Fibers.NEEDLES Size 10 (6 mm): 24" and 40" circular (cir) and set of double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); stitch holders; tapestry needle; one 1¾ " decorative button; one 1" button.GAUGE 14 sts and 22 rows = 4" in tree bark patt.


8¾ (10, 11¼ , 12¼ , 13½ , 14½ )"22 (25.5, 28.5, 31, 34.5, 37) cm 24"

61 cm

62¼ (74¾ , 87½ , 101¼ , 113¾ , 126¼ )"158 (190, 222, 257, 289, 320.5) cm

11¾

(14,

16,

18¼

, 2

0½ ,

22½

)"

30 (3

5.5,

40.

5, 4

6.5,

52,

57)

cm

10½ "26.5 cm

13¼ (16¼ , 19, 22, 25¼ , 28¼ )"33.5 (41.5, 48.5, 56, 64, 72) cm

13¾ (16, 18¼ , 21¾ , 24, 26¼ )"35 (40.5, 46.5, 55, 61, 66.5) cm

body

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ic



p2, M1, k1, sl m] 4 times—80 (88, 96, 104, 112, 120) sts. Next rnd [Purl to m, knit to m, purl to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, k1, purl to m, knit to m, p3, k2] 2 times. Next rnd [M1, purl to m, M1, sl m, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, M1, purl to 1 st before m, M1, k1, sl m, M1, k1, purl to m, M1, sl m, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, M1, p3, k1, M1, k1, sl m] 2 times—88 (96, 104, 112, 120, 128) sts. Next rnd [Purl to m, knit to m, purl to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, k2, purl to m, knit to m, p4, k3] 2 times. Next rnd [M1, purl to m, M1, sl m, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, M1, purl to 1 st before m, M1, k1, sl m, M1, pm, k2, purl to m, M1, sl

NOTES - This coat begins with an upper back motif worked in the round. Sleeves are worked in the round, beginning with stitches along one side of the motif. Stitches for the fronts are picked up along the sleeve cast-on edge, then the fronts and back (which begins with stitches along the lower edge of the upper back motif) are worked in one piece to the lower edge. Stitches for the front band are picked up along the front edges, then the front band and lower edging is worked in one piece in the round.

- When working the upper back motif, change to circular needle when necessary.

Stitch GuideS2kp2: Sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso—2 sts dec’d.

Seed Stitch: (multiple of 2 sts)Rnd 1 *K1, p1; rep from * to end.Rnd 2 *P1, k1; rep from * to end.Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for patt.

CoatUpper BackWith dpn, CO 8 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd.Rnd 1 P8.Rnd 2 *M1, k1; rep from * to end of rnd—16 sts.Rnd 3 P16.Rnd 4 [K1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p1] 4 times—24 sts.Rnd 5 [K5, p1] 4 times.Rnd 6 [K1, yo, pm, k3, yo, k1, p1, pm] 4 times—32 sts.Rnd 7 [Knit to 1 st before 2nd m, p1] 4 times.Inc rnd [Knit to m, yo, sl m, k3, yo, knit to 1 st before m, p1] 4 times—8 sts inc’d. Rep last 2 rnds 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) more times, then work Rnd 7 once more—56 (64, 72, 80, 88, 96) sts. Next rnd [M1, ssk, knit to m, yo, sl m, k3, yo, knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, M1, k1, sl m] 4 times—64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104) sts. Next rnd [P1, knit to 2 sts before 2nd m, p1, k1] 4 times. Next rnd [P1, M1, ssk, knit to m, remove m, yo, k3, yo, knit to 4 sts before m, k2tog, M1, p1, k1] 4 times—72 (80, 88, 96, 104, 112) sts. Next rnd [P2, knit to 3 sts before m, p2, k1] 4 times. Next rnd [M1, p2, M1, pm, ssk, k9 (11, 13, 15, 17, 19), k2tog, pm, M1,

m, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, M1, purl to 3 sts before m, pm, k2, M1, k1, sl m] 2 times—96 (104, 112, 120, 128, 136) sts. Next rnd [Purl to m, knit to m, purl to 1 st before m, k1, p1, k2, purl to m, knit to m, purl to m, k2, p1, k1] 2 times. Inc rnd [M1, purl to m, M1, sl m, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, M1, purl to 1 st before m, M1, k1, sl m, M1, purl to m, k2, purl to m, M1, sl m, ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, M1, purl to m, k2, purl to 1 st before m, M1, k1, sl m] 2 times—8 sts inc’d. Next rnd [Purl to m, knit to m, purl to 1 st before m, k1, purl to m, k2, purl to m, knit to m, purl to m, k2, purl to 1 st before m, k1] 2 times. Rep last 2 rnds



k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

yo

k2tog

ssk

p2tog


M1

(k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) in same st

k5tog

no stitch

pattern repeat

M

5

5

Key

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

yo

k2tog

ssk

p2tog


M1

(k1, yo, k1, yo, k1) in same st

k5tog

no stitch

pattern repeat

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

M

Leaf and Vine

47

45

43

41

39

37

35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

work 3 times

14 sts to 30 sts to 18 sts

15 st to 27 st to 15 st repeat

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

5

5

5

5

M

5

5

M

M

M

M

M

Flower ClusterFlower Cluster

15 st to 27 st to 15 st repeat

13

11

9

7

5

3

1


35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

MM

Ending Leaf and VineEnding Leaf and Vine

35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1


2 sts to 15 sts

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

M

M

M

M

M M

M

M

M

M

M

MM

M

M

Single LeafSingle Leaf

2 sts to 15 sts

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

8 st repeat

8

6

4

21 (WS)

MM

M

M

M

M

M

M

Tree BarkTree Bark

8 st repeat

1 (WS)

8

6

4

2

1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6) more time(s)—112 (128, 144, 160, 176, 192) sts. Next rnd [M1, purl to m, M1, sl m, s2kp2 (see Stitch Guide), sl m, M1, purl to 1 st before m, M1, k1, sl m, M1, purl to m, k2, purl to m, M1, sl m, s2kp2, sl m, M1, purl to m, k2, purl to 1 st before m, M1, k1, sl m] 2 times—120 (136, 152, 168, 184, 200) sts. Next rnd [Purl to m, remove m, p1, remove m, purl to 1 st before m, k1, remove m, purl to m, remove m, k2, purl to m, remove m, p1, remove m, purl to m, remove m, k2, purl to 1 st before m, k1, remove m] 2 times.

Right SleevePlace last st from previous rnd and next 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50) sts on holder for back neck, foll 29 (33, 37, 41, 45, 49) sts on 2nd holder for left sleeve, and foll 31 (35, 39, 43, 47, 51) sts on 3rd holder for back—29 (33, 37, 41, 45, 49) sts rem for right sleeve. With RS

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facing and working yarn, CO 37 (43, 49, 57, 63, 69) sts at end of row and join for working in the rnd—66 (76, 86, 98, 108, 118) sts. Set-up rnd 1 P0 (1, 2, 3, 4, 5), pm, p3, M1, p1, M1, k2, p3tog, p5, pm, p1 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11), pm, p5, p3tog, k2, M1, p1, M1, p3, pm, p3 (5, 7, 9, 11, 13), pm, p6, k2, p6, pm, p1 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11), pm, p6, k2, p6, pm for new beg of rnd (5 [8, 11, 16, 19, 22] sts unworked on left needle). Set-up rnd 2 [Purl to m, p6, k1, M1, k1, p2tog, p4, sl m] 4 times. Note: Sleeve shaping beg before charts end; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Next rnd [Purl to m, work Leaf and Vine chart to m] 4 times. Cont in patt through Row 24 of charts, then work Rows 25–48 three times. At the same time, shape sleeve as foll: Work 8 (8, 5, 3, 2, 2) rnds even. Dec 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) st(s) on next rnd by working p2tog before 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) instance(s) of chart. Rep last 9 (9, 6, 4, 3, 3) rnds 9 (9, 14, 20, 25, 30) more times, working decs evenly around sleeve—72 sts rem when all shaping and charts are complete. Work Rows 1–36 of Ending Leaf and Vine chart once—40 sts rem. For a

longer sleeve, rep Row 36 until piece is desired length. BO all sts.

Left SleevePlace 29 (33, 37, 41, 45, 49) left sleeve sts onto cir needle. With RS facing, CO 37 (43, 49, 57, 63, 69) sts at end of row, pm, and join for working in the rnd—66 (76, 86, 98, 108, 118) sts. Set-up rnd 1 P0 (1, 2, 3, 4, 5), pm, p3, M1, p1, M1, k2, p3tog, p5, pm, p1 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11), pm, p5, p3tog, k2, M1, p1, M1, p3, pm, p5 (8, 11, 16, 19, 22), pm, p6, k2, p6, pm, p1 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11), pm, p6, k2, p6, pm, p3 (5, 7, 9, 11, 13). Set-up rnd 2 [Purl to m, p6, k1, M1, k1, p2tog, p4, sl m] 4 times, purl to end of rnd. Finish as for right sleeve, working decs before or after charts as needed.

Back and FrontsWith RS facing, 40" cir needle, and beg at left shoulder, pick up and knit 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50) sts along left sleeve CO sts, pm, pick up and knit 8 (10, 12, 16, 18, 20) sts along left sleeve CO sts, pm, p15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25) back sts from holder, M1, p16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) back sts from holder, pm, pick up and knit 8 (10, 12, 16, 18, 20) sts along right sleeve

CO sts, pm, pick up and knit 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50) sts along right sleeve CO sts, ending at right shoulder—108 (124, 140, 160, 176, 192) sts total. Do not join. Next row (WS) Sl 1, pm, work Tree Bark chart to 5 (1, 5, 1, 5, 1) st(s) before m, k4 (0, 4, 0, 4, 0), p1, sl m, p1, k3 (0, 1, 3, 0, 1), work Tree Bark chart 0 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2) time(s), k3 (0, 1, 3, 0, 1), p1, sl m, p1, k3 (1, 3, 1, 3, 1), work Tree Bark chart to 4 (2, 4, 2, 4, 2) sts before m, k3 (1, 3, 1, 3, 1), p1, sl m, p1, k3 (0, 1, 3, 0, 1), work Tree Bark chart 0 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2) time(s), k3 (0, 1, 3, 0, 1), p1, sl m, p1, k4 (0, 4, 0, 4, 0), work Tree Bark chart to last st, pm, k1. Inc row (RS) Sl 1, *work in patt to 1 st before m, M1, k1, sl m, k1, M1; rep from * 3 more times, work in patt to last st, k1—8 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every RS row 25 (31, 37, 43, 49, 55) more times, working new sts in rev St st until there are 4 or 8 rev St sts on each side of m (not including St st adjacent to m), then working new sts into patt—316 (380, 444, 512, 576, 640) sts: 56 (66, 76, 86, 96, 106) sts for each front, 60 (74, 88, 104, 118, 132) sts for each side, 84 (100, 116, 132, 148, 164) sts for back. Collar and edgings: With RS facing (at end of RS row), pick up and knit 39 (45, 50, 63, 69, 74) sts along selvedge edge of right front, p31 (35, 39, 43, 47, 51) back neck sts from holder, pick up and knit 39 (44, 50, 63, 68, 74) sts along selvedge edge of left front, k1 from left needle, sl m, and join for working in the rnd—425 (504, 583, 681, 760, 839) sts total. Set-up rnd [Work in Seed st (see Stitch Guide) to 1 st before m, pm, k1, remove m, k1, pm] 5 times, p1, *k1, p5, k3, p5, k1; rep from


a magical feathered robe. This blanket is worked in checked squares of a bamboo-stitch pattern and a feather lace pattern. The matching beanie-style hat has a bamboo-stitch brim and a stocki-nette-stitch crown that comes to a little point like a bamboo shoot.

FINISHED SIZE Blanket: 27½ (40)" wide and 27½ (40)" tall, to fit car seat (crib). Hat: 11½ (13¾ , 16)" circumference, unstretched. Blanket shown measures 27½ ". Hat shown measures 13¾ ".YARN Sirdar Snuggly Baby Bamboo Double Knitting (80% bamboo-sourced viscose, 20% wool; 104 yd [95 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]): #122 groovy green, 6 (9) skeins for blanket, 1 (1, 2) skein(s) for hat.Yarn distributed by Knitting Fever.NEEDLES Blanket—size 7 (4.5 mm). Hat—size 7 (4.5 mm): double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); tapestry needle.GAUGE 21 sts and 28 rows = 4" in St st; 21 sts and 29 rows = 4" in Bamboo st.


NOTE - Blanket is worked in one piece from one end to the other; size can be changed by adding or subtracting cast-on sts in multiples of 34 (34 sts will add/subtract about 6½ " from blanket width).

Stitch GuideBamboo Stitch in rows: (multiple of 6 sts + 1)Row 1 (RS) P1, *k5, p1; rep from * to end.Row 2 K1, *p5, k1; rep from * to end.Rows 3 and 4 Rep Row 1.Row 5 Rep Row 2.Row 6 Rep Row 1.Rep Rows 1–6 for patt.

Bamboo Stitch in rnds: (multiple of 6 sts)Rnd 1 *P1, k5; rep from * to end.Rnds 2 and 3 Rep Rnd 1.

Once upon a time, an old Japanese bamboo cutter found a tiny baby girl in a stalk of bamboo. She grew to be so beautiful and talented that the Emperor asked to marry her. But as she revealed, she could not, because she was actually the princess of the moon and must return to her kingdom. As she ascended to the moon, she left her foster parents her stole and donned

Bamboo Princess Baby Blanket

and HatKim Dr iggs

* to last 3 sts, p1, pm, k2. Buttonhole rnd Work 3-st one-row buttonhole, [work in Seed st to m, work Row 1 of Single Leaf chart to m] 4 times, work in Seed st to 4 sts before m, work 4-st one-row buttonhole, work Row 1 of Single Leaf chart to m, p1, work Row 1 of Flower Cluster chart to 1 st before m, p1, work Row 1 of Single Leaf chart. Next rnd [Work in Seed st to m, work Row 2 of Single Leaf chart to m] 5 times, p1, work Row 2 of Flower Cluster chart to 1 st before m, p1, work Row 2 of Single Leaf chart. Cont in patt to end of charts. BO all sts.

FinishingWeave in ends. Block to measure-ments, taking care to shape flower on back and points of skirt. Sew larger button to RS of left front and smaller button to WS of right front so that fronts close comfortably.

An avid reader of fantasy, THERESSA SILVER read about and fell in love with Tolkien’s world as a teenager. The time the Hobbits spend with Treebeard the Ent is one of her favorite passages, and the sad tale of the missing Entwives remained with her through the years. She now lives in the lush, green Pacific Northwest with her family. (Perhaps the Entwives are there too?)

girl in a stalk of bamboo. She grew to be so beautiful and talented that

But as she revealed, she could not,

ascended to the moon, she left her foster parents her stole and donned

Bamboo Princess


Nat

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ic


HatWith dpn, CO 60 (72, 84) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work 6 rnds in garter st. Work in Bamboo st in rnds (see Stitch Guide) until piece measures 4" from CO edge. Work 4 rnds in garter st. Work in St st until piece measures 4½ (5, 6)" from CO.

Shape CrownNext rnd *K10, k2tog, pm; rep from * to end—55 (66, 77) sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. Dec rnd *Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m; rep from * to end—5 (6, 7) sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every other rnd 9 more times—5 (6, 7) sts rem. Break yarn, thread tail on tapestry needle, run through rem sts and secure on WS.

FinishingWeave in ends. Gently block to measurements.

KIM DRIGGS has always loved fairy stories. She lives in the New River Valley of Virginia, where she has been designing both knit and crochet for about three years. Her designs can be found on her blog, www.marudesigns.blogspot.com.

BlanketCO 143 (211) sts. Work 5 rows in garter st, ending with a RS row.Set-up row (WS) K5, place marker (pm), k31, pm, [k3, pm, k31, pm] 3 (5) times, k5. *Next row (RS) K5, sl m, [work Bamboo st in rows (see Stitch Guide) to m, sl m, k3, sl m, work Feather st (see Stitch Guide) to m, sl m, k3, sl m] 1 (2) time(s), work Bamboo st in rows to m, sl m, k3, sl m, work Feather st to m, sl m, k5. Work even in patt as established until piece measures 6" from beg of patt, ending with a WS row. Work 4 rows in garter st, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS) K5, sl m, [work Feather st to m, sl m, k3, sl m, work Bamboo st in rows to m, sl m, k3, sl m] 1 (2) time(s), work Feather st to m, sl m, k3, sl m, work Bamboo st in rows to m, sl m, k5. Work even in patt as estab-lished until piece measures 6" from beg of this set of patt. Work 4 rows in garter st, ending with a WS row. Rep from * 1 (2) more time(s). Work 2 rows in garter st. BO all sts.

Rnd 4 *K1, p5; rep from * to end.Rnds 5 and 6 Rep Rnd 4.Rep Rnds 1–6 for patt.

Feather Stitch: (multiple of 10 sts + 1)Row 1 (RS) *K3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.Rows 2 and all WS rows Purl.Row 3 *K2, k2tog, [k1, yo] 2 times, k1, ssk, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.Row 5 *K1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk; rep from * to last st, k1.Row 7 K2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, *sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3; rep from * to last 2 sts, ssk.Row 9 *K1, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.Row 11 *K1, yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.Row 13 *K1, yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.Row 15 *K1, yo, k3, sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso, k3, yo; rep from * to last st, k1.Row 16 Purl.Rep Rows 1–16 for patt.




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The new nook for creative knitting, crocheting, and canvas work. No matter what your skill level.1107-1109 Westgate (708) 948-7943

Wool, Warp & Wheel—Richmondwww.woolwarpandwheel.com

Spinning, weaving, and knitting supplies and equip-ment. Tue–Fri 7pm–9pm, Sat–Sun 10–5.5605 Mill St. (815) 678-4063

INDIANA

Knitting Off Broadway—Fort Waynewww.knittingoffbroadway.com

Located in a restored 1890’s building, this full-ser-vice yarn store specializes in unique and hard-to-find fibers.1309 Broadway (260) 422-YARN

MARYLAND

WOOLWINDERS YARN SHOP—Rockvillewww.woolwinders.com

Knit, create, and share fine quality yarns and multi-level knitting/ crochet classes all in our cozy, friendly shop!404 King Farm Blvd. (240) 632-9276

MASSACHUSETTS

The Woolpack—Actonwww.woolpackyarn.com

Yearn for Yarn? Unwind your mind and knit yourself silly in our cozy fiber mercantile.Acton Woods Plaza/340 Great Rd. (978) 263-3131

Stitch House—Dorchesterwww.stitchhousedorchester.com

Very cool place to buy yarn, learn to knit, sew, crochet, or have a party.846 Dorchester Ave. (617) 265-8013

Shop Listings

Sarasota

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Web ListingsFIBER PROCESSING

Ohio Valley Natural Fiberswww.OVNF.com

Serving your fiber and processing needs for over 25 years.

(937) 446-3045

ONLINE STORE

Abundant Yarn Onlinewww.abundant-yarn.com

100 luscious yarn lines. User friendly website and service. Try us!

(866) 873-0580

YARNS

Gypsy Girl Creationswww.stonebarnfibers.comAn ever changing kaleidoscope

of unique colors.(815) 968-1735

Ad IndexCascade Yarns .................................................C4

Classic Elite Yarns .............................................. 9

Denise Interchangeable Knitting & Crochet ...17

Eucalan Inc .......................................................17

Fairmount Fibers Ltd. ........................................ 5

Green Mountain Spinnery ...............................17

Interweave .........C2, 1, 9, 13, 17, 45, 69, 123, C3

Loopy Ewe, The ................................................13

Mannings Handweaving, The ..........................17

Skacel Collection .............................................13

Webs/America's Yarn Store .............................. 5

Wool 2 Dye 4 ....................................................17

WASHINGTON

Serial Knitters Yarn Shop—Kirklandwww.serialknitters.com

Specializing in local hand dyed yarns, friendly commu-nity-based atmosphere and classes.8427 122nd Ave. NE (425) 242-0086

Paradise Fibers—Spokanewww.paradisefibers.com

Terrific selection of wool yarn, knitting needles, wheels, and looms. Order online or stop in. Same-day shipping!225 W. Indiana Ave. (888) 320-7746

Your Favorite Issues of

Interweave Knits

are on CD!

Find Collection CDs atshop.KnittingDaily.com

NORTH CAROLINA

The Tail Spinner—Richlandswww.tail-spinner.com

Complete fiber arts center: Quality yarns, spinning wheels, looms, classes, related tools, and equipment.109 N. Wilmington St. (910) 324-6166

OHIO

Sally’s Shop—Wadsworthwww.sallysyarnshop.com

We are a small local business that sells five wheels, fibers, looms and yarns. We know fiber people are tac-tile thus like to feel the fibers. Come in and try out wheels before you purchase.141 College St. (330) 334-1996

OREGON

The Knit Shop—Eugenewww.knit-shop.com

Eugene’s destination yarn shop. Extensive inventory including; MadelineTosh, Noro, Malabrigo, Brown Sheep, Berroco and more. Mentoring available and encouraged.2811 Oak St. (541) 434-0430

PENNSYLVANIA

Gosh Yarn It!—Kingstonwww.goshyarnitshop.com

A beautiful yarn boutique in Northeastern PA. Visit us for fine yarn, patterns, notions, and knitting & crochet classes. 303 Market St. (570) 287-9999

Natural Stitches—Pittsburghwww.naturalstitches.com

Best selection of natural fibers in Pittsburgh. Knowl-edgeable staff. Open 7 days. Evenings, too! 6401 Penn Ave. (412) 441-4410

TENNESSEE

Smoky Mountain Spinnery—Gatlinburgwww.smokymountainspinnery.com

Come shop in our comfortable surroundings. Every-thing for spinning, weaving, knitting, crocheting, and needlefelting. Antiques and gifts, too.466 Brookside Village Wy., Ste. 8 (865) 436-9080

TEXAS

Yarntopia—Katywww.yarntopia.net

Yarntopia carries a multitude of specialty yarns that are sure to please every crafter. Stitching groups and classes available.2944 S. Mason Rd., Ste. M (281) 392-2386

WC Mercantile—Navasotawww.wcmercantile.com

“The BEST little Wool shop in Texas!” Featuring natu-ral fibers for knitting and spinning. Lots of local Texas yarns, too!201 E. Washington Ave. (936) 825-3378

Ad Index

Web Listings

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Thumbelina’s DressJosie Mercier

This dress is inspired by the tiny girl Thumbelina and her escape from a dreary winter spent underground to a beautiful springtime with her true love. The miniature dress (also pictured on page 128) is knitted in the round from the bottom up using embroidery floss. The embroidery floss is separated into six individual plies, as is common in cross-stitch and embroidery. Two plies are held together while knitting to create the shades of springtime colors in the dress.

FINISHED SIZE About 4½ " skirt circumference and 3¼ " total length.YARN DMC Cotton Embroidery Floss (100% cotton; 8 yd [7 m]/skein): 581 Moss Green; 166 MD LT Moss Green; 727 V LT Topaz; 3716 V LT Dusty Rose; 816 Garnet; 1 skein each.NOTE: Each hank is composed of 6 plies. Only 2 plies are used at a time.NEEDLES Size 000 (1.5 mm): 1 set double-pointed (dpn) or 1 circular (cir), 40" or longer. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the cor-rect gauge.NOTIONS Markers (m); tapestry needle.GAUGE 15 sts and 18 rows = 1" in St st.


NOTES - You will always be knitting with two plies of embroidery floss, although you will not always be knitting with two plies of the same color. See “Prepare Yarn” for more information.

- Work under strong light to better see the stitches.

- Use wearable magnifying glasses or discount store reading glasses if necessary.

- Loop the yarn around your finger once more than usual to help control the slippery strands and maintain an even tension.

Stitch GuideFeather and Fan Stitch (over 18 sts):Rnds 1 and 2 Knit.Rnd 3 [K2tog] 3 times, [yo, k1] 6 times, [k2tog] 3 times.Rnd 4 Purl.Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt.

Color Sequence • 2 plies of Moss Green

• 1 ply of Moss Green and 1 ply of MD LT Moss Green

• 2 plies of MD LT Moss Green

• 1 ply of MD LT Moss Green and 1 ply of V LT Topaz

• 2 plies of V LT Topaz

Prepare YarnCut a 1½ yd piece of embroidery floss. Separate one ply from the floss. When the ply is free, allow it to spin and release the extra twist. Repeat until all strands are separated. (This may be done as needed rather than all at once at the beginning of the project.)

DressSkirtUsing 2 plies of Moss Green, CO 72 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Work Rnds 1–4 of Feather and Fan (see Stitch Guide) 2 times for each color in Color Sequence (see Stitch Guide). Dec Rnd [Sl 1, k1, psso] around—36 sts rem.

BodiceChange to 2 plies of V LT Dusty Rose, work 16 rnds in St st.Shape upper bodice using short-rows as foll:Short-row 1 (RS) K8, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 2 (WS) P6, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 3 K5, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 4 P4, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 5 K3, wrap next st, turn.Short-row 6 P2, wrap next st, turn.Working wraps tog with wrapped sts, k4, then rep Short-rows 1–6 once more, work to end of rnd. Change to 2 plies of Garnet. Knit 1 rnd, working wraps tog

with wrapped sts as you come to them. Purl 1 rnd. BO all sts.

FinishingWeave in ends. Block.

JOSIE MERCIER has been designing knitwear since

2005 and loves designing garments that have a

rich backstory. She lives in Belleville, Ontario,

Canada, with her husband and two children.

When not knitting, she can be found reading,

making gluten-free banana muffins, or playing

video games. Find her online at www.mercier

knittingpatterns.blogspot.com.

Thu

mbe

lina

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Yarn Sources

United States Yarn SourcesAnzula, www.anzula.com.

Cascade Yarns, www.cascadeyarns.com.

Classic Elite Yarns, (800) 343-0308; www.classiceliteyarns.com.

ColorSong Yarn/Hand Maiden, (541) 929-2359; www.colorsongyarn.com.

Crystal Palace, www.straw.com.

Crafts Americana/Knit Picks, (800) 574-1323; www.knitpicks.com.

DMC, (800) 275-4117; www.dmc-usa.com.

Dream in Color, www.dreamincoloryarn.com.

Fairmount Fibers/Manos del Uruguay, www.fairmount� bers.com.

Kelbourne Woolens/The Fibre Company, (484) 368-3666;

www.kelbournewoolens.com.

Harrisville Designs, (603) 827-3996; www.harrisville.com.

Holiday Yarns, (315) 214-5356; www.holidayyarns.com.

Knitting Fever/Sirdar, (516) 546-3600; www.knittingfever.com.

Lorna’s Laces, (773) 935-3803; www.lornaslaces.net.

Madelinetosh, (817) 249-3066; www.madelinetosh.com.

Miss Babs Hand-Dyed Yarns & Fibers, (423) 727-0670; www.missbabs.com.

Swans Island, (888) 526-9526; www.swansislandblankets.com.

WEBS/Valley Yarns, (800) 367-9327; www.yarn.com.

Westminster Fibers/Rowan, (800) 445-9276; www.westminster� bers.com.

International Yarn SourcesMalabrigo, (786) 866-6187; www.malabrigoyarn.com.

Sweet Fiber Yarns, www.sweet� beryarns.com.

SweetGeorgia, (604) 569-6811; www.sweetgeorgiayarns.com.

Yarnspirations/Patons, (800) 351-8357; www.yarnspirations.com.

Contact these companies for the name of a local retailer or mail-order source for the yarns used in this issue.

Anzula Nebula; (51, 66) 84% Merino, 16% nylon; 400 yd [366 m]/4 oz [113 g]; 3-ply.

Cascade Yarns 128 Superwash; (28, 41) 100% Merino; 128 yd [117 m]/31⁄2 oz [100 g]; 2-ply.

Classic Elite Liberty Wool; (48, 56) 100% superwash wool; 122 yd [112 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]; 4-ply.

Crystal Palace Yarns Mochi Plus; (101, 112) 80% Merino, 20% nylon; 95 yd [87 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]; singles.

Crystal Palace Yarns Kid Merino; (101, 112) 28% kid mohair, 28% Merino, 44% micro� ber nylon; 240 yd [219 m]/7⁄8 oz [25 g]; 2-ply.

DMC Cotton Embroidery Floss; (128, 124) 100% cotton; 8 yd [7 m]/skein; multi-ply.

Dream in Color Starry; (100, 110) 98% superwash Merino, 2% Lurex; 450 yards [411 m]/4 oz [113 g]; 3-ply.

The Fibre Company Road to China (Kelbourne Woolens); (49, 60) 65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% cashmere, 10% camel; 69 yd [63 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]; 3-ply.

Hand Maiden Swiss Mountain Cashmere and Silk (ColorSong Yarn); (70, 76) 65% cashmere, 35% silk; 197 yd [180 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]; 3-ply.

Harrisville Designs Watershed; (75, 94) 100% wool; 110 yd [120 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]; 2-ply.

Holiday Yarns Silver Sock; (73, 87) 63% Merino, 20% silk, 15% nylon, 2% metallic; 420 yd [384 m]/31⁄2 oz [100 g]; 3-ply.

Knit Picks Aloft (Crafts Americana); (27, 39) 75% super kid mohair, 25% silk; 246 yd [225 m]/7⁄8 oz [25 g]; multi-ply.

Knit Picks Palette (Crafts Americana); (72, 86) 100% wool; 231 yd [211 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]; 2-ply.

Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock; (29, 43) 80% Merino, 20% nylon; 430 yd [398 m]/31⁄2 oz [100 g]; 4-ply.

Madelinetosh Tosh Vintage; (25, 34) 100% superwash Merino; 200 yd [183 m]/31⁄2 oz [100 g]; 4-ply.

Malabrigo Lace; (99, 108) 100% Merino; 470 yd [430 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]; singles.

Malabrigo Sock; (74, 91) 100% Merino; 440 yd [402 m]/31⁄2 oz [100 g]; 3-ply.

Manos del Uruguay Wool Clasica (Fairmount Fibers); (102, 116) 100% wool; 138 yd [126 m]/31⁄2 oz [100 g]; singles.

Miss Babs Hand-Dyed Yarns & Fibers Alpacacita; (47, 54) 70% baby alpaca, 30% cultivated silk; 800 yd [732 m]/41⁄3 oz [123 g]; 2-ply.

Patons Classic Wool Worsted; (73, 89) 100% wool; 210 yd [192 m]/31⁄2 oz [100 g]; 3-ply.

Rowan Baby Merino Silk DK (Westminster Fibers); (72, 81) 66% superwash Merino, 34% tussah silk; 148 yd [135 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]; 6-ply.

Rowan Felted Tweed DK (Westminster Fibers); (50, 63) 50% wool, 25% alpaca, 25% viscose; 191 yds [175 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]; 2-ply.

Sirdar Snuggly Baby Bamboo Double Knitting (Knitting Fever); (103, 120) 80% bamboo sourced viscose, 20% wool; 104 yd [95 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]; multi-ply.

Swans Island Washable Wool Aran Weight; (24, 30) 100% superwash Merino; 100 yd [91m]/13⁄4 oz [50g]; 4-ply.

Swans Island Natural Colors Fingering; (26, 37) 100% organic Merino; 525 yd [480 m]/31⁄2 oz [100 g]; 3-ply.

Sweet Fiber Yarns Merino Twist DK; (71, 78) 100% superwash Merino; 260 yd [238 m]/4 oz [113 g]; 3-ply.

SweetGeorgia CashLuxe Fine; (46, 52) 70% superwash Merino, 20% cashmere, 10% nylon; 400 yds [366 m]/4 oz [113 g]; 3-ply.

Valley Yarns Colrain (WEBS); (98, 104) 50% Merino/50% Tencel; 109 yd [99 m]/13⁄4 oz [50 g]; 4-ply.

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Project Index

Sinister

Eglantine Sleevespages 46, 52

Male� cent’s Cloakpages 48, 56

White Queen Stolepages 47, 54

Ordinary in the

Extraordinary

Sylvania Cardiganpages 24, 30

Woodcutter Sockspages 26, 37

Honest Woodsman Pulloverpages 25, 34

The Classics

Snowdrop and Rose Red Cowlpages 70, 76

String of Flowers Circletpages 72, 86

Rumpelstiltskin’s Wrap pages 71, 78

Hunger for Rampion Pullover

pages 72, 81

Kitsunetsuki Cardiganpages 98, 104

Butter� y Fairy Tankpages 100, 110

Among the Birches Shawlpages 99, 108

Nat re’s Magicn

Ordinary Extraordinary

The Classics

Nat re’snNat re’snNat re’s

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Colubrida Wrappages 49, 60

Riddles with Dragonspages 51, 66

Hervor’s Undermittenspages 50, 63

Giant Slayer’s Vine Scarfpages 27, 39

Hansel & Gretel Sockspages 29, 43

Into the Magic Forest Blanketpages 28, 41

A Bit of Magic

String of Flowers Circletpages 72, 86

Merlin Sweaterpages 75, 94

Undine Shawlettepages 74, 91

Taking Flight Kerchief

pages 73, 87

Singeli’s Silver Slipperspages 73, 89

Chloris Sontagpages 101, 112

Bamboo Princess Baby Blanket and Hatpages 103, 120

The Entwife’s Coatpages 102, 116

Special Issue 2014

EnchantedKnits

Thumbelina pages 128, 124

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A Bit

agicPoor little Thumbelina spent a summer, fall, and winter alone in a great wood, fashioning a home from grass, leaves, and other found treasures. Knit Josie Mercier’s tiny, colorful dress for the queen of the flowers. (Find the pattern on page 124.)

A Bit

agic of


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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2007:PieceWork’s fi rst issue dedicated to historical knitting features colorful mittens perfect for cold and snow, clever knitted bags, a luxurious sweater for a baby, and tips and techniques for two-end knitting. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2008:PieceWork’s second annual historical knitting issue features the popular poetry mittens, ancient Artic knitting techniques, a modern knitted kimono from Ann Budd, and more. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009:PieceWork’s third annual historical knitting issue features Eleanor Roosevelt’s love of knitting, tips and techniques to knit a sock in a sock, and instructions to knit Alice Starmore’s Capillifolium Baby Bonnet.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2010:Discover fascinating knitters from the past, learn what folks were knitting in medieval London, knit mittens and socks, and enjoy a stitch pattern from Barbara Walker, author of the beloved Treasury of Knitting Patterns books.

You can get this Collection on CD or download it instantly at InterweaveStore.com

Love historical knitting?

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2007:

knitting?knitting?PieceWork Historical Knitting 2007-2010 CollectionThis collection includes the fi rst four digital editions of PieceWork magazine dedicated to historical knitting.

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EK_C4_AD.indd 4 6/26/14 2:19 PM

interweave knits - enchanted knits 2014.pdf

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