introduction to fine swiss watchmaking
DESCRIPTION
A beginner's guide to fine Swiss watchmaking. This short overlook includes: history, modern business, glossary, brand stories, complication hierarchy and importance of service.TRANSCRIPT
Swiss MadeSuccess story
Artem SkachkovMarketing manager at Noblesse
Watch of XXI century
PhoneThe most reliable and practical watch in 2013
Facts & FiguresSwiss watch industry in facts & figures
Swiss watch industrySwitzerland
Area: 41 284 km² Population: 7 700 200 people GDP: more than $ 636 billion Languages: French, German, Italian,
Romansh Government: federal republic Districts: 26 cantons Capital: Bern
Swiss watch industrySwitzerland
Export: 19 300 mln. EURO Produced: 29.8 mln. pieces Production centers: cantons Vaud,
Geneve, Neuchatel, Jura
Watch sales
Quantity Value2%
60%
7%
18%
10%
15%
81%
7%
Switzerland Japan Others China
*data from research of Harward Business School, 2010
Watch facts
1 mmHeight of Rado ceramic case
Watch facts
1 200 mWaterresistance of Omega watch
Watch facts
1 500 partsMake up Franck Muller movement
Watch facts
0,2 sm2 Area of Jaeger-LeCoultre watch
Watch facts
10 vibrationsMakes every second balance wheel of Zenith watch
Watch facts
840 Co
Temperature at the oven to produce Ulysse Nardin dial
Professional languageBasic terms of fine watchmaking
Watch types
Mechanical Quartz
Watch types
Self-wound Hand-wound
Watch types
Self-wound Hand-wound
Watch types
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Watch dictionary
MovementIMPORTANT! Terms and names
Watch dictionary
EscapementA mechanism that is fitted
between the gears and the regulating organ to suspend the gears' motion at regular intervals
Pendulum
Watch dictionary
BalanceA circular, moving part which
oscillates on its rotational axis
Heart
Watch dictionary
BezelA ring around the case
middle that secures the crystal.
Top ring
Watch dictionary
GuillocheA decorative engraving
technique in which a precise intricate repetitive pattern or design is mechanically engraved into an underlying material with fine detail
Decoration
Watch dictionary
CalibreA synonym of size. Used to
denote the layout and dimensions of the different movement pillars, wheels, barrel, etc.
Movement
Watch dictionary
JewelsAn international term for the
jewels (rubies) in a watch movement that are used as bearings for pivots to reduce friction.
Bearings
Watch dictionary
VibrationsMovement of a pendulum or
oscillating body between two extreme positions. An oscillation ("tick-tock") equals two vibrations
Tick-Tock
Watch dictionary
RotorA semi-circular disc that
freely rotates with each movement of the arm to automatically wind the mainspring.
Winding
Watch dictionary
ChronographA watch combined with a
mechanism which can be started, stopped and returned to zero on demand to measure intervals of time
Stop-watch
Watch dictionary
ChronometerA high-precision watch displaying
seconds whose movement has been controlled over a period of several days, in different positions and at different temperatures, by an official neutral body
Precise watch
HistoryFrom home manufacture to stock exchange
Watch history
Marine chronometerWatches with gyroscope
Watch historyJohn Calvin
Birth: 10 july 1509 Education: theology, law Reforms:
Creation of city council Death penalty
Ideas: “Life at the wealth, death in
the poverty” “Denial of decorations”
Watch historyGeography
Area: mountains of Alps and Jura Average temperature: from +4 to
+6 Precipitation: up 2 000 sm/year Language: French Cantons: Geneva, Vaud, Neuchatel
Watch history
WorkshopHome-based production of watch components
Watch history
ManufactureIndustrial watch production
Watch history
EvolutionFrom pocket to wrist watch
Watch historyRapid Development factors
Innovative progress in: Aviation Diving Military Engineering
Pursue of precision Coroporate and government orders
Watch history
Quartz crisisApparent death of Swiss watch industry
Watch historyQuartz crisis
Quartz watches: Battery powered Highest precision No winding Digital\ analogue display
Fuel crisis: USD value fall CHF value growth
Results: Production fall from 90 000
pieces to 33 000 pieces
Ernest SchneyderBreitling
Franck MullerFanck Muller
Nicolas Hayek
SWATCH
Gunter BlumleinRichemont
Rolf W. Schneider
Ulysse Nardin
Watch history
RenaissanceFounding fathers of new Swiss watch industry
Founding fathers
Gunter Blumlein
• Life: 1944-2001• Company: LMH (in 1981) – later a
grew into Richemont Group• Brands: IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre,
A.Lange & Sohne• Gave second life to A.Lange&Sohne• “Savior” of Jaeger-LeCoultre from
bankruptcy
Founding fathers
Franck Muller
• Life: 1958-present• Company: Franck Muller Group
(founded in 1991)• Master of Complications• Watchmaker (Ecole d'Horlogerie de
Genève)• Co-Founder and partner – Vartan
Sirmakes
Founding fathers
Nicolas Hayer
• Life: 1928-2010• Company: Swatch Group (from
1985)• Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Omega,
Jaquet Droz, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Hamilton, Swatch, CK
• Engineer, 2 PHDs• Creator of SMART car• “King” of Swiss watches• 232nd wealthiest person
Founding fathers
Rolf W. Schnyder
• Life: 1935-2011• Company: Ulysse Nardin (bought in
1983)• Traveler, athlete• Most of the life spent in Asia
(Malaysia, Thailand, China, Vietnam)
• Worked with Ludwig Oechslin
Founding fathers
Ernest Schneider
• Life: 1921-present• Company: Breitling (bought in
1979)• Professional pilot• Watchmaker and microelectronics
engineer• Non-public person• Lead Breitling to manufacture status
Watch history
Manufacture Modern production site
BrandsTOP watch brands
Watch brands
Watch brandsBreguet
Founded: 1775 Founder: Abraham-
Louis Breget Brand meaning:
Founder’s last name Town: Valle-de-Joux
Watch brandsAchievements
Invented tourbillon Invented hairspring Created dial guilloche Produced first wrist
watch
Watch brandsHublot
Founded: 1980 Founder: Carlo Crocco Brand meaning: in
French bull`s eye Town: Nyon (suburbs of
Geneva)
Watch brandsAchievements
First watch on rubber bracelet
Proficency in material combination (titanium, ceramics, etc.)
Watch brandsIWC
Founded: 1868 Founder: Florentine
Ariosto Jones Brand meaning: short
for International Watch Company
Town: Schaffhausen
Watch brandsAchievements
The only watch company in German speaking Switzerland
Masculine brand Programmed calendar
for 500 years Classical pilot watches
Watch brandsJaeger-LeCoultre
Founded: 1833 Founder: Antoine
LeCoultre Brand meaning: names
of partners (Edmond Jaeger and Jaques-Davide LeCoultre)
Town: Valle-de-Joux
Watch brandsAchievements
Creator of milionometer
Full cycle manufacturing
Inventor of gyrotourbillon
Development of Extreme LAB watch
Watch brandsOmega
Founded: 1848 Founder: Louis Brandt Brand meaning: fro
calibre named Omega (idea of perfectness)
Town: Biel/Bienne
Watch brandsAchievements
Watch of Apollo 11 astronauts
Olympics’ official timekeeper
James Bond watch Development of Co-
Axial escapment
Watch brandsPatek Philippe
Founded: 1839 Founders: Antoni Patek
and Fransua Chapek Brand meaning: name of
partners (Antoni Patek and Jean-Adrien Philippe
Town: Plan-les-Ouates
Watch brandsAchievements
Inventor of crown #1 at antiquarian
auctions Champion of precision
Watch brandsRomain Jerome
Founded: 2004 Founder: N\A Brand meaning: N\A Town: Geneva
Watch brandsAchievements
Watches with Titanic parts
Watches with Moon dust and parts of Apollo 11
Developer of capsule collection concept
Watches for professional golfers
Watch brandsRolex
Founded: 1908 Founder: Hans Wilsdorf Brand meaning: N\A Town: Biel/Bienne
Watch brandsAchievements
Waterresistance record Largest watch
production First automatic watch First certified
chronometer
Watch brandsUlysse Nardin
Founded: 1846 Founder: Ulysse Nardin Brand meaning: name
of the founder Town: Le Lockle and
La Chaux-de-Fonds
Watch brandsAchievements
Most reliable marine chronometers
Most complicated watches – Guiness book of records
The only jaquemarts watches
Watches with silicon parts
Watch brandsVacheron Constantin
Founded: 1755 Founder: Jean-Mark
Vacheron Brand meaning: name
of partners (Jaques-Barthélemy Vacheron and François Constantin)
Town: Plan-les-Ouates
Watch brandsAchievements
Most ancient manufacture
First antimagnetic watch
BusinessWatch holdings, fairs and rewards
Swatch Group
Watch business
LVMHRolex Group
Franck Muller Group
Richemont Group
Holding companiesLargest conglomerates
Watch businessFMG
Franck Muller Group
• Fonded: 1991• Brands:
• Franck Muller, CVSTOS, Pierre Kunz, Backes&Strauss, Martin Braun, Smalto, European Watch Company, Rodolphe, Roberto Cavalli, Pierre Michel Golay
• President: Vartan Sirmakes
Watch businessLVMH
Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy
• Founded: 1987• Brands:
• Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Dior, BVLGARI, Chaumet
• President: Bernard Arnault
Watch businessRichemont Group(ex-LMH: Les Manufactures
Horlogeres)
• Founded: 1986• Brands:
• A.Lange&Sohne, Dunhill, Baume&Mercier, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis, Montblanc, Panerai, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef&Arpels, Ralph Lauren
• President: Johann Peter Rupert
Watch business
Rolex Group
• Founded: 1946• Brands:
• Rolex, Tudor• President: Gian Riccardo Marini
Watch businessSwatch Group
(ex-SMH: Swiss Corporation for Microelectronics and Watchmaking
Industries)
• Founded: 1985• Brands:
• Breguet, Blancpain, Omega, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Hamilton, Balmain, Certina, Mido, Endura, Swatch, Calvin Klein, Flik Flak, Leon Hatot
• President: Neyla Hayek• CEO: Nick Hayek
Watch fairs
Baselworld
Watch fairs
SIHHSalon International de la Haute Horlogerie
Watch fairs
WPHHWorld Presentation of Haute Horlogerie
PriceWatch complications scale
Watch complications
Small second
Watch complications
Power reserve
Watch complications
Date
Watch complications
Big date
Watch complications
Day of the week
Watch complications
Month
Watch complications
Moonphase
Watch complications
Retrograde hands
Watch complications
Chronograph
Watch complications
Dual Time
Watch complications
GMT
Watch complications
Alarm
Watch complications
Skeletonized dial
Watch complications
Annual calendar
Watch complications
Perpetual calendar
Watch complications
Minute repeater
Watch complications
Jaquemarts
Watch complications
Tourbillon
Watch priceMaterials
Platinum Gold Titanium Carbon fibre Steel Composite materials Rare materials
After sales serviceTaking care of Swiss watches
Watch service
AtmosThe only perpetual watch
Watch serviceReasons
Strokes Temperature (oil inside) Water (waterristance
rules) Scratches Time (full service)
Watch service
Service centerRepairs are made at certified service center only
Watch service
WatchwinderTaking care of automatic watches
Watch service
Leather strapService period up to 1.5 years
Watch waterresistance
•No water contact
< 30m (3am)•Mi
nimum water contact - hand washed with watches on
30m - 50m
•Some contact with water -car washed with watches on
50m - 100m
•Swimming with watches on
100m - 200m
•Active leisure on water with watches on
200m - 500m
•Diving with watches on
>500m (50am)
Watch waterresistance
CrownNever use in water!
Thank you!
Swiss DoneQ&As