introduction to fine swiss watchmaking

108
Swiss Made Success story

Upload: artem-skachkov

Post on 21-Jan-2015

1.949 views

Category:

Entertainment & Humor


6 download

DESCRIPTION

A beginner's guide to fine Swiss watchmaking. This short overlook includes: history, modern business, glossary, brand stories, complication hierarchy and importance of service.

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Swiss MadeSuccess story

Page 2: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Artem SkachkovMarketing manager at Noblesse

Page 3: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch of XXI century

PhoneThe most reliable and practical watch in 2013

Page 4: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Facts & FiguresSwiss watch industry in facts & figures

Page 5: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Swiss watch industrySwitzerland

Area: 41 284 km² Population: 7 700 200 people GDP: more than $ 636 billion Languages: French, German, Italian,

Romansh Government: federal republic Districts: 26 cantons Capital: Bern

Page 6: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Swiss watch industrySwitzerland

Export: 19 300 mln. EURO Produced: 29.8 mln. pieces Production centers: cantons Vaud,

Geneve, Neuchatel, Jura

Page 7: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch sales

Quantity Value2%

60%

7%

18%

10%

15%

81%

7%

Switzerland Japan Others China

*data from research of Harward Business School, 2010

Page 8: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch facts

1 mmHeight of Rado ceramic case

Page 9: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch facts

1 200 mWaterresistance of Omega watch

Page 10: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch facts

1 500 partsMake up Franck Muller movement

Page 11: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch facts

0,2 sm2 Area of Jaeger-LeCoultre watch

Page 12: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch facts

10 vibrationsMakes every second balance wheel of Zenith watch

Page 13: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch facts

840 Co

Temperature at the oven to produce Ulysse Nardin dial

Page 14: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Professional languageBasic terms of fine watchmaking

Page 15: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch types

Mechanical Quartz

Page 16: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch types

Self-wound Hand-wound

Page 17: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch types

Self-wound Hand-wound

Page 18: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch types

??? ???

Page 19: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch dictionary

MovementIMPORTANT! Terms and names

Page 20: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch dictionary

EscapementA mechanism that is fitted

between the gears and the regulating organ to suspend the gears' motion at regular intervals

Pendulum

Page 21: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch dictionary

BalanceA circular, moving part which

oscillates on its rotational axis

Heart

Page 22: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch dictionary

BezelA ring around the case

middle that secures the crystal.

Top ring

Page 23: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch dictionary

GuillocheA decorative engraving

technique in which a precise intricate repetitive pattern or design is mechanically engraved into an underlying material with fine detail

Decoration

Page 24: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch dictionary

CalibreA synonym of size. Used to

denote the layout and dimensions of the different movement pillars, wheels, barrel, etc.

Movement

Page 25: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch dictionary

JewelsAn international term for the

jewels (rubies) in a watch movement that are used as bearings for pivots to reduce friction.

Bearings

Page 26: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch dictionary

VibrationsMovement of a pendulum or

oscillating body between two extreme positions. An oscillation ("tick-tock") equals two vibrations

Tick-Tock

Page 27: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch dictionary

RotorA semi-circular disc that

freely rotates with each movement of the arm to automatically wind the mainspring.

Winding

Page 28: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch dictionary

ChronographA watch combined with a

mechanism which can be started, stopped and returned to zero on demand to measure intervals of time

Stop-watch

Page 29: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch dictionary

ChronometerA high-precision watch displaying

seconds whose movement has been controlled over a period of several days, in different positions and at different temperatures, by an official neutral body

Precise watch

Page 30: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

HistoryFrom home manufacture to stock exchange

Page 31: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch history

Marine chronometerWatches with gyroscope

Page 32: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch historyJohn Calvin

Birth: 10 july 1509 Education: theology, law Reforms:

Creation of city council Death penalty

Ideas: “Life at the wealth, death in

the poverty” “Denial of decorations”

Page 33: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch historyGeography

Area: mountains of Alps and Jura Average temperature: from +4 to

+6 Precipitation: up 2 000 sm/year Language: French Cantons: Geneva, Vaud, Neuchatel

Page 34: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch history

WorkshopHome-based production of watch components

Page 35: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch history

ManufactureIndustrial watch production

Page 36: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch history

EvolutionFrom pocket to wrist watch

Page 37: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch historyRapid Development factors

Innovative progress in: Aviation Diving Military Engineering

Pursue of precision Coroporate and government orders

Page 38: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch history

Quartz crisisApparent death of Swiss watch industry

Page 39: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch historyQuartz crisis

Quartz watches: Battery powered Highest precision No winding Digital\ analogue display

Fuel crisis: USD value fall CHF value growth

Results: Production fall from 90 000

pieces to 33 000 pieces

Page 40: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Ernest SchneyderBreitling

Franck MullerFanck Muller

Nicolas Hayek

SWATCH

Gunter BlumleinRichemont

Rolf W. Schneider

Ulysse Nardin

Watch history

RenaissanceFounding fathers of new Swiss watch industry

Page 41: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Founding fathers

Gunter Blumlein

• Life: 1944-2001• Company: LMH (in 1981) – later a

grew into Richemont Group• Brands: IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre,

A.Lange & Sohne• Gave second life to A.Lange&Sohne• “Savior” of Jaeger-LeCoultre from

bankruptcy

Page 42: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Founding fathers

Franck Muller

• Life: 1958-present• Company: Franck Muller Group

(founded in 1991)• Master of Complications• Watchmaker (Ecole d'Horlogerie de

Genève)• Co-Founder and partner – Vartan

Sirmakes

Page 43: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Founding fathers

Nicolas Hayer

• Life: 1928-2010• Company: Swatch Group (from

1985)• Brands: Breguet, Blancpain, Omega,

Jaquet Droz, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Hamilton, Swatch, CK

• Engineer, 2 PHDs• Creator of SMART car• “King” of Swiss watches• 232nd wealthiest person

Page 44: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Founding fathers

Rolf W. Schnyder

• Life: 1935-2011• Company: Ulysse Nardin (bought in

1983)• Traveler, athlete• Most of the life spent in Asia

(Malaysia, Thailand, China, Vietnam)

• Worked with Ludwig Oechslin

Page 45: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Founding fathers

Ernest Schneider

• Life: 1921-present• Company: Breitling (bought in

1979)• Professional pilot• Watchmaker and microelectronics

engineer• Non-public person• Lead Breitling to manufacture status

Page 46: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch history

Manufacture Modern production site

Page 47: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

BrandsTOP watch brands

Page 48: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brands

Page 49: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsBreguet

Founded: 1775 Founder: Abraham-

Louis Breget Brand meaning:

Founder’s last name Town: Valle-de-Joux

Page 50: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsAchievements

Invented tourbillon Invented hairspring Created dial guilloche Produced first wrist

watch

Page 51: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsHublot

Founded: 1980 Founder: Carlo Crocco Brand meaning: in

French bull`s eye Town: Nyon (suburbs of

Geneva)

Page 52: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsAchievements

First watch on rubber bracelet

Proficency in material combination (titanium, ceramics, etc.)

Page 53: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsIWC

Founded: 1868 Founder: Florentine

Ariosto Jones Brand meaning: short

for International Watch Company

Town: Schaffhausen

Page 54: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsAchievements

The only watch company in German speaking Switzerland

Masculine brand Programmed calendar

for 500 years Classical pilot watches

Page 55: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsJaeger-LeCoultre

Founded: 1833 Founder: Antoine

LeCoultre Brand meaning: names

of partners (Edmond Jaeger and Jaques-Davide LeCoultre)

Town: Valle-de-Joux

Page 56: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsAchievements

Creator of milionometer

Full cycle manufacturing

Inventor of gyrotourbillon

Development of Extreme LAB watch

Page 57: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsOmega

Founded: 1848 Founder: Louis Brandt Brand meaning: fro

calibre named Omega (idea of perfectness)

Town: Biel/Bienne

Page 58: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsAchievements

Watch of Apollo 11 astronauts

Olympics’ official timekeeper

James Bond watch Development of Co-

Axial escapment

Page 59: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsPatek Philippe

Founded: 1839 Founders: Antoni Patek

and Fransua Chapek Brand meaning: name of

partners (Antoni Patek and Jean-Adrien Philippe

Town: Plan-les-Ouates

Page 60: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsAchievements

Inventor of crown #1 at antiquarian

auctions Champion of precision

Page 61: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsRomain Jerome

Founded: 2004 Founder: N\A Brand meaning: N\A Town: Geneva

Page 62: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsAchievements

Watches with Titanic parts

Watches with Moon dust and parts of Apollo 11

Developer of capsule collection concept

Watches for professional golfers

Page 63: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsRolex

Founded: 1908 Founder: Hans Wilsdorf Brand meaning: N\A Town: Biel/Bienne

Page 64: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsAchievements

Waterresistance record Largest watch

production First automatic watch First certified

chronometer

Page 65: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsUlysse Nardin

Founded: 1846 Founder: Ulysse Nardin Brand meaning: name

of the founder Town: Le Lockle and

La Chaux-de-Fonds

Page 66: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsAchievements

Most reliable marine chronometers

Most complicated watches – Guiness book of records

The only jaquemarts watches

Watches with silicon parts

Page 67: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsVacheron Constantin

Founded: 1755 Founder: Jean-Mark

Vacheron Brand meaning: name

of partners (Jaques-Barthélemy Vacheron and François Constantin)

Town: Plan-les-Ouates

Page 68: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch brandsAchievements

Most ancient manufacture

First antimagnetic watch

Page 69: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

BusinessWatch holdings, fairs and rewards

Page 70: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Swatch Group

Watch business

LVMHRolex Group

Franck Muller Group

Richemont Group

Holding companiesLargest conglomerates

Page 71: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch businessFMG

Franck Muller Group

• Fonded: 1991• Brands:

• Franck Muller, CVSTOS, Pierre Kunz, Backes&Strauss, Martin Braun, Smalto, European Watch Company, Rodolphe, Roberto Cavalli, Pierre Michel Golay

• President: Vartan Sirmakes

Page 72: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch businessLVMH

Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy

• Founded: 1987• Brands:

• Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Dior, BVLGARI, Chaumet

• President: Bernard Arnault

Page 73: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch businessRichemont Group(ex-LMH: Les Manufactures

Horlogeres)

• Founded: 1986• Brands:

• A.Lange&Sohne, Dunhill, Baume&Mercier, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis, Montblanc, Panerai, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef&Arpels, Ralph Lauren

• President: Johann Peter Rupert

Page 74: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch business

Rolex Group

• Founded: 1946• Brands:

• Rolex, Tudor• President: Gian Riccardo Marini

Page 75: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch businessSwatch Group

(ex-SMH: Swiss Corporation for Microelectronics and Watchmaking

Industries)

• Founded: 1985• Brands:

• Breguet, Blancpain, Omega, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Hamilton, Balmain, Certina, Mido, Endura, Swatch, Calvin Klein, Flik Flak, Leon Hatot

• President: Neyla Hayek• CEO: Nick Hayek

Page 76: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch fairs

Baselworld

Page 77: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch fairs

SIHHSalon International de la Haute Horlogerie

Page 78: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch fairs

WPHHWorld Presentation of Haute Horlogerie

Page 79: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

PriceWatch complications scale

Page 80: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Small second

Page 81: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Power reserve

Page 82: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Date

Page 83: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Big date

Page 84: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Day of the week

Page 85: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Month

Page 86: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Moonphase

Page 87: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Retrograde hands

Page 88: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Chronograph

Page 89: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Dual Time

Page 90: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

GMT

Page 91: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Alarm

Page 92: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Skeletonized dial

Page 93: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Annual calendar

Page 94: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Perpetual calendar

Page 95: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Minute repeater

Page 96: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Jaquemarts

Page 97: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch complications

Tourbillon

Page 98: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch priceMaterials

Platinum Gold Titanium Carbon fibre Steel Composite materials Rare materials

Page 99: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

After sales serviceTaking care of Swiss watches

Page 100: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch service

AtmosThe only perpetual watch

Page 101: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch serviceReasons

Strokes Temperature (oil inside) Water (waterristance

rules) Scratches Time (full service)

Page 102: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch service

Service centerRepairs are made at certified service center only

Page 103: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch service

WatchwinderTaking care of automatic watches

Page 104: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch service

Leather strapService period up to 1.5 years

Page 105: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch waterresistance

•No water contact

< 30m (3am)•Mi

nimum water contact - hand washed with watches on

30m - 50m

•Some contact with water -car washed with watches on

50m - 100m

•Swimming with watches on

100m - 200m

•Active leisure on water with watches on

200m - 500m

•Diving with watches on

>500m (50am)

Page 106: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Watch waterresistance

CrownNever use in water!

Page 107: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Thank you!

Page 108: Introduction to Fine Swiss Watchmaking

Swiss DoneQ&As