Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information

Whereas the Parliament of India has set out to provide a practical regime of right to information for citizens to secure access to information under the control of public authorities, in order to promote transparency and accountability in the working of every public authority, and whereas the attached publication of the Bureau of Indian Standards is of particular interest to the public, particularly disadvantaged communities and those engaged in the pursuit of education and knowledge, the attached public safety standard is made available to promote the timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public.

इंटरनेट मानक

“!ान $ एक न' भारत का +नम-ण”Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda

“Invent a New India Using Knowledge”

“प0रा1 को छोड न' 5 तरफ”Jawaharlal Nehru

“Step Out From the Old to the New”

“जान1 का अ+धकार, जी1 का अ+धकार”Mazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan

“The Right to Information, The Right to Live”

“!ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी च0राया नहB जा सकता है”Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam

“Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen”

“Invent a New India Using Knowledge”

है”ह”ह

IS 14281 (2004): Textiles - Glossary of Terms Relating toMade-up Textile Items and Ready-Made Garments [TXD 20:Made-up Textiles]

IS 14281:2004(AmalgamatingIS12110: 1987)

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Indian Standard

TEXTILES — GLOSSARY OF TERMS RELATING TOMADE-UP TEXTILE ITEMS AND READY-MADE

GARMENTS

(First Revision)

ICS 01.020; 61.020

(2 BIS 2004

BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDSMANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG

NEW DELHI 110002

November 2004 Price Group 7

Nlade-Up Textiles (Including Ready-Made Garments) Sectional Committee, TX 20

FOREWORD

This Indian Standard (First Revision) was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft finalized bythe Made-Up Textiles (Including Ready-Made Garments) Sectional Committee had been approved by the TextileDivision Council.

‘Thisstandard which was first published in 1995 has been revised to modify the definitions of certain terms formore clarity and inclusion of definition of certain additional terms particularly used in ready-made garmentindustry. Opportunity has been availed to amalgamate IS 12110 : 1987 ‘Glossary of terms used in apparelindustry’ with this standard.

—------

... .

7IS 14281:2004

Indian Standard

TEXTILES — GLOSSARY OF TERMS RELATING TOMADE-UP TEXTILE ITEMS AND READY-MADE

GARMENTS

(First Revision)1 SCOPE

This standard prescribes definitions of terms relatingto made-up textile items and ready made garments.

2 TERMS AND DEFINITIONS

Accordian Pleats — Narrow straight pleats usuallyparallel to one another.

Allowance (Body Tolerance) — The extra dimensionsallowed on garment measurements over bodymeasurement (see also Seam Allowance).

Ammunition Carrier — The ammunition carrier ismade of thick webbing with cushioning pads andrunning web loops. The carrier is provided with a webhandle and is intended to carry ‘Anti-tank Grenadeammunition and 75 mm – 125 mm (3”- 5“) RocketLauncher ammunition in cylinders on the back alongwith the basic set of WE Patt 37’.

Anklets Battle Dress — The anklets are made fromthin web lined with cotton cloth and are intended tobe used as puttee by the army personnel.

Anorak — A lined and hooded hip length jacketdesigned to give a degree of protection from inclementweather.

Applique — A content design or shape attached tothe face of a material for ornamentation, frequentlyof a different type and/or shade of material.

Assembly Line System — A production system inwhich single garments or parts are assembled bypassing through a series of consecutive operationsperformed by different operators.

Awning — Sheet of canvas used as shelter againstsun or rain especially on ship’s deck or attached to avehicle to extend its living area.

Back - and - Fore Stitch — A hand stitch employedfor swing linings and pockets. It involves taking a backstitch and then a running stitch before the needle isremoved. .

Backing — A strip of material placed on the underside of part of a garment to act as a reinforcement.

Back Rise — The distance, measured along the surface

of a bifurcated garment, from the crotch to the centreback of the waistline (see also Front Rise).

Back Stitch — A hand stitch used to sew garmentparts. So called, because the needle, on emerging,goes back to be inserted at the end of the previousstitch.

Back Strap — A strap across the back of a garmentusually fitted with a buckle, or other method ofadjustable fastening, and used to adjust the fit of thegarment, within limits, to the wearer’s requirements.

Back Tacking — Sewing and reverse sewing at thebeginning or end of a seam to secure the stitching.

Bagging Out — A method of joining facings and/orlinings to the outer material of a garment by sewingthem together face-to-face in the form of a bag andthen turning the garment out to the right side.

Balance — The relatiQn of one section of a garmentto another, particularly that of back and front lengths,with the aim of achieving a garment in harmony withindividual posture.

Balance Marks — Visual guides, generally in the formof notches, used to maintain the correct balance of agarment during assembly, and usually positioned insideseams, shoulder seams, armholes and elsewhere asnecessary.

Bal Collar — A high millitary collar on a balmacaancoat. It can be worn turned up and bottomed or lyingflat.

Bar Tacking — Reinforcement by means of stitchingat points of stress, for example, button holes, pocketcomers, seam ends and belt loops.

Basting — Temporary stitching either by hand ormachine to hold garment parts in the correct positionfor a subsequent permanent sewing operation.

Bath Coating — A light-weight, soft napped materialof wool or cotton. The fabric is used for coverings,infants blankets, bath robes, etc.

Bearers — Of trousers. Sections fastened to the sideseams to take the weight of the trouser when the frontsare opened. Bearers for whole fall trousers contain thepockets.

1

IS 14281:2004

Belt Loop—A loop ofmaterial or thread which issewn into the waist ofagarment toreceive a belt.

Belt Waist — The belt waist is made of rolIed edgesslotted back web fitted with metallic hooks with tip ateach end. The belt is provided with slides andadjustable buckles at each end and two buckles withchap in the centre.

Bertna — A kind of cape or collar, sometimes of lace,it is often used for dress trimmings and attached to theedge of a low-backed waist.

Besom — A pocket featuring a stitched fold on upperand lower edges.

Bias — Direction at an angle to warp and weft. Truebias is at an angle of 45° to both warp and weft Otherusage includes bias cutting and cutting on the bias whichis also known as cutting on the cross.

Bias Cut — Fabric cut at angle to the warp and weftthreads.

Bight — The distance between the stitching line andthe adjacent edge of the material (see also SeamAllowance).

Binding — Tape, braid, ribbon of other material usedto strengthen or decorate the edge of a garment, blanket& other fabric.

Bind Stitch — A stitch (either by hand or machine)which does not go right through the material.

Blocking Out — The action of cutting many layers ofmaterial into manageable blocks which mayincorporate one or more parts of a garment .

Bluff Edges (Buffed Edges) — Edges finished withoutcutside stitching (see also Bluffhg).

Bluffing — The process of fastening down the frontedge of facings on the forepart canvas to preserve theshape of edges finished without outside stitching ( ~eealso Bluff Edges).

Bodice — The section of a woman’s garment coveringthe body from neck to waist.

Bonded-Fibre Fabric — A non-woven fabric consis-ting of one or more webs or masses of fibres, heldtogether with a bonding material, frequently used forinterlinings.

Bonnet — Head covering for women, children andinfants, usually fitting over back and top of head andtied with strings under chin.

Bound Seam — A seam having its material edgebound with a strip of additional material.

Box Pleats — A form of pleats achieved by doublefolding material alternately in opposite directions.

Bra — A shaped inner garment worn by women tomold and support the breasts. Usually consists of twocups held in place with straps over the shoulders andelastic in centre back. Bra is shortened form of wordbrassiere.

Break — The point where the lapel starts to roll overon a coat, usually at the top button hole.

Bridle — A narrow strip of material which is attachedto the interlining along the roll of the lapel to hold andcontrol it.

Buckram — A stiff fabric made by impregnating alight weight open cloth with adhesive and fillers.

Buggy — A lining from the neck down across the backof an otherwise unlined coat.

Bundle — A number of similar garment partstemporarily kept together for convenience of handling(see also Conventional Bundle System and ProgressiveBundle System).

Button — A tiob or disc which is attached to garmentsas a means of fastening or ornamentation (for buttonsizes see ~igne ).

Button Down Collar — The shirt collar in which thepoints are fastened to the front of the shirt with a buttonclosure. .

Buttonhole — The slit through which a bbtton ispassed to close and hold parts of a garment or othermade-up article in the correct position.

NOTES

1 Uncut buttonholes, with or without buttons, may be usedfor ornamentation.

2 The edges of buttonholes are usually hemmed oroverlooked.

Button Stand; Buttonhole Stand — The distancefrom finished edge of a garment to the centre of thebutton or buttonhole.

Butt Seam — A seam which is sewn with the twomaterial edges abutting.

Canvas Making — The sewing together of all thepieces which form the interlining of a jacket or coateither by hand or machine.

1,

Canvas Bucket — The water bucket made of canvasintended to be used as a water carrier and also as apack for toilet articles. It is made of cotton canvas of680 g/m2 and is cylindrical in shape with a metallicrim at the top. It is provided with two handles, one atthe top and other on the side and are made of samematerial as that of body.

Canvas — (a) The cloth usually made from cotton,flax, hemp orjute in weights traditionally ranging from180 g/m2 and above. The weave is plain or double-

2

IS 14281:2004

end plain. In cotton canvas, the yams may be singlesbut are frequently plied; in other canvases, the yarnsare generally singles. The warp predominates and afeature of the heavier canvases is very close packingof the weft, which is highly crimped over a straightwarp. The term canvas covers cloth with a great varietyof uses, but the salient features of all are strength andfirmness. (b) A made-up interlining for a garment.

Cap — Head covering, fitting more snugly to the headthan a hat, frequently made with a visor-type front.Usually made of felt, leather, straw, or fabric, and wornfor sports or informal occasions, and by the military.

Carrier Water Bottle — The water bottle carrier is aframe work of webbings or canvas cloth for securingthe water bottle. A buckle is attached on each side forfixing the brace.

Catch — A underlap of material providing a backingto an opening to take buttons or a zip tape for fastening,for example, fly-catch, button-catch.

Chagul — The chagul is for keeping and carryingpotable water. The basic fabric generally used in itsfabrication is flax-tow canvas. The stored water getscooled due to evaporation of water from the surface ofthe fabric.

Chain Stitch - A stitch formed with one or moreneedle threads and characterized by intralooping. Oneor more loops of thread are passed through the materialand secured by intralooping with a succeeding loop orloops after they are passed through the material.

Channel — A narrow passage formed between pliesof Inatcrial in garment or by attachment of an additionalply of material, usually to house a draw cord.

Chest Piece — An additional lay or layers ofinterlinings in the front shoulder area.

Clem — A very small dart wh]ch is sewn and not cut.

Cloth — The principal or outside fabric of a garmentalso called as shell.

NOTE — This is the normal usage in the tailoring tradealthough any fabric may be described as a cloth.

Closing — Manner in which the item of apparel isfastened including the type of device by which it issecured such as belts, pins, lacing, button or sewing.

Coat — A sleeved outer garment capable of openingcompletely down the front and often, as in work wear,described further by length, for example, 3/4 lengthor full length.

Coated Fabric — A textile fabric on which there hasbeen formed in situ on one or other surfaces, a layeror layers, of firmly adherent coating material.

Colour Bleeding — Loss of dye from coloured

material when immersed in water or solvent leadingto an obvious coloration of the liquor or adjacentmaterial, and spreading of dye from one portion of acoloured design to contiguous areas.

Collar —(a) Neck band, upright or turned over on anitem of clothing. (b) Band of lining, lace or othermaterial which completes the upper part of a garmentaround the neck. (c) Separate piece of fabric, fur,leather, or other material which tits around the neckand is not attached to the garment

Collar Stand — That part of a collar which joins theneck edge of the garment and terminates at the creaseof the collar where the fall commences.

Contour Stitching — Automatic sewing along or nearthe edge of a garment part. The shape may bepredetermined or edge following.

Conventional Bundle System — A production systemin which bundles pass from storage to an operatorand then back to storage for allocation to the nextoperation.

Core Spun Thread —A thread made from yams whichare a combination of continuous filaments providingthe core, and staple fibres providing the sheath.

Coverall — A one-piece type of legged work-wearoften capable of being fastened at wrists and ankles.

Crew Neck — A term applied to neck — openingdesigned, cut or finished in slightly curved form.

Covering Stitch — A type of chain stitch prqducedon twin-needle or multi-needle machines, used forcovering seams.

Crease — An un-intentional fold in a fabric that maybe introduced at some stage in processing,

Crease-Recovery — The measure of crease-resistance,specified quantitatively in terms of crease-recoveryangle.

Crease-Resist Finish — A finishing process, mainlyfor cellulosic fabric whidh confers the characteristic ofincreased recovery from creasing, a property notinherent.

Crocking — The rubbing off the dye from wet or dryfabric.

Cross Pocket — A pocket which lies horizontally. Inthe case of trousers, the pocket mouth can run fromthe waistband on the front to a point approximately10 cm down the side seam from the waistband.

Cross Stitch — A hand stitch formed by passing theneedle alternatively on and off the edge slightlythrough the material and in advance of the last stitch.Used as a substitute for felling or for ornamentationof raw edges.

3

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E 14281:2004

rDEPTH OF

T &———._.WAIST LEVEL

DEPTHOF

CROTCH

-l–___ . .

FIG. 1 CROTCH;

Crotch, Crutch, Fork — The region in a bifurcatedgarment where the legs of the garment join, normallythe junction of the inside leg seams (see Fig. 1).

Cuff — The lower part of the sleeve or leg of a garmentwhich usually has a plain turned in edge. A turned upsleeve may be described as a gauntlet cuff,

Cummer Bund — Waistband, either folded orpleated, worn over the top of trousers.

Cup Seaming — Joining two pieces of knitted fabricon a selvedge-to-selvedge basis by means of a chainstitch production on a sewing machine in which thefabrics are moved forward between revolving feed cups( compare linking).

Cut, Make and Trim — A section of the industry inwhich a contractor is supplied with materials anddesigns in order to produce garments for a principal.

Curtains — Of trousers. Pieces of material (usuallylining) put cross the top of the undersides under thewaistband from side seam to seat seam.

Darning — Corrections of defects, imperfections anddamages in fabrics and garments by thread and needle.Also known as ‘mending’.

Dart — A wedge or diamond shape removed from thesurface of a garment part by stitching or by cutting andstitching to contribute to the shape of the garment.

Fish Dart — A dart cut at the waist to give a closerfit.

V-Dart — A dart provided to give a better fit atthe seat.

——— 74-CROTCH-

:

1

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I

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I

CRUTCH; FORK

–WIDTH OFCROTCH

Depth of Crotch, Depth of Crutch, Body Rise —The measurement from the side waist level to the forklevel where the legs join the trunk.

NOTE— Thismeasurementis taken fmm a seated figure tlomthe side waist level to the horizontal surface.

Die Cutting ( Die-Pressing) — Cutting one or morelayers of material using cutting tools (dies) or acomposite cutting tool in conjunction with a machinepress ( clicker press).

Double Breasted (II.B.) — A coat or any other uppergarment with warp over fronts having buttons andbutton holes on each forepart.

Double, Cutting on the — Any material which hasbeen folded along the middle of its length, normallywith the face side inwards so that the selvedges aretogether. Cutting on the double is performed by cuttingthrough two thicknesses so as to obtain two pieces,that is, a right and Iefl hand section.

Draft —(a) A constructed plan of a garment. (b) Theapplication of body or garment measurements on aflat plane.

Drape — The way the material in a garment hangswhen worn.

Draw Cord — A cord which passes through a channeland allows the garment to be gathered.

Drawing in — Forming a running stitch drawn toachieve gathering or gauging of the material holdingfolds in various forms on garments, as in the gowns ofbarristers.

4

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Dress — Clothing, particularly outerwear.

Dressing — A type of adjustment made to one side oftrousers to improve fit.

Drilling — Marking key positions such as pocketsand darts through all thickness of a lay by use of adrilling machine or similar machine with a hollowneedle.

Drop Loop — A method of lowering the belt loopbelow the top of the trouser waist band (usually 1 to2 cm). This method prevents the belt from riding abovethe waist.

Durable Press — A textile finishing treatmentdesigned to impart to a textile material or garment theretention of specific contours including creases andpleats resistant to normal usage, washing and/or drycleaning.

Ease; Ease Alowance; Tolerance; Body Tolerance— An addition to body measurement, primarily tofacilitate movement, for inclusion in the patterncalculations. This addition is determined by a numberof factors, for example, fabric and style. The bodymeasurement plus ease ,gives the finished garmentmeasurement.

Easing-In — The manipulation of an additionalamount of one of the materials into a seam in order tocreate fullness, shape or contour.

Epaulet (or Epaulette) — Strap on shoulder of coat,sport shirt or jacket military in origin.

Eye of Button-Hole — That part of the buttonholeinto which the shank or neck of the button will sitwhen the garment is fastened.

Eye of Button Hole — The rounded end of a buttonhole into which the shank or neck of the button willpull when the button is fastened.

Fabric Woven — A planar structure produced byinterlacing two or more sets of yams, tibres, rovingsor filaments where the elements pass each otheressentially at right angles and one set of elements isparallel to the fabric axis.

Face Side — The side of material intended to be shownwhilst in wear.

Faced Cloth — Cloth which have a different surfacetexture, for example, pile or nap on front and back.

Facing — A separate piece of material used as acovering on specific areas of a garment, for example,a lapel.

Fagot Stitch — A form of lock stitch, using amodified zig-zag machine, for joining materialsallowing a narrow gap between the two edges.

Fall -—Of collar. The section of the collar betweenthe crease and the leaf edge.

IS 14281:2004

Feather Stitch — A decorative stitch, similar to thefagot stitch but in which the joining of two edges isnot involved.

Fine Darning — The hand operation of repairing faultsin fabrics by sewing or closing up the places wherethreads or yams are missing. It is a form of invisiblemending.

Flagging — The rising and falling of material causedby the needle movement on the sewing machine.

Flap — A shaped piece of material which provides acovering for a pocket mouth or is for ornamentation.

Flatlock Seam — A butt seam formed using a flatlockstitch. The edges of the material are trimmed duringsewing.

FlatIock Stitch — A stitch formed by the ‘flatlock’machine with four needles, four loopers and a coveringthread.

Fly — A material covered opening to conceal afastening, for example, buttons, zip. A blind fly isfastened instead of left open along the finished edge.

Flyline — The line of the fly fastening from the centreof the fork to the top of the waistband on a pair oftrousers.

Foreparts — The front parts of the upper garments.

Fork Quantity — The allowance of material inbifurcated garments provided for the thickness throughthe trunk from front to back at the crotch.

Foundation — Garment combining a bra and girdlein one piece to hold the figure. Made of without strapsover the shoulders and optional supporters for the hose,and gently made with alternating panels of flexibleelastic fabric and non-stretch.

French Cuff — Cuff on shirts, either folds back orhas double thickness usually closed with cuff-links.

French Seam — A seam in which two pieces ofmaterial are superimposed, stitched together, and thenfolded over and stitched again to conceal the edgesthus producing a flat folded seam with only one rowof stitching visible.

Frog — Design made of braid, loops and stitched,around button holes. Usually on pyjarnas or robes.

Frog Bayonet — The frog bayonet is made from onepiece of thick webbing, folded double, having twoloops at the bottom for keeping the scabbard and aloop at the top for the handle of the bayonet.

Front Rise — The distance from the crotch to thecentre front of the waist line.

Fullness — The additional amount of one of thematerials joined at a seam which is allowed in order

5

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IS 14281:2004

to create the desired shape in a part of a finished with clip is also provided, one on each side, at thegarment, for example, a sleeve head (see also Easing- top of the gusset. Two straps are also provided at backin). for attachment of straps left and right and two

Fusible Interlinings — An interlining which has beentreated so that it adheres to other materials by theapplication of heat and pressure.

Fusing — The action of bending a fusible interliningto a garment piece by the action of heat and pressure.

Gathering (Gauging) — The shortening of the materiallength by drawing together and holding a successionof small folds of material by stitching. Machinegathering or gauging is achieved by the use of a specialpresser foot or attachment.

iiWh~,ei!iS. A pair of pockets, one on each side isalso provi~d.

Haversack Straps Left and Right — The strap ismade of thick webbing 51 mm having a slide whoseone end is tipped and the other end is stitched withthick webbing 25 mm straps provided with hook. Thehook is further provided with the thick webbing 25mm.

Haversack/Pack Straps for Supporting — The strapsare pieces of thick webbing fitted with a buckle at oneend and tripped at the other end.

G imp — A special thread used to support and raise Hem — A folded edge produced by turning in thethe button hole stitching. edge of a textile material and securing it.

Gore — A wedge-shaped piece of material inserted Hemmed Bag — A bag with raw edges of cloth at theinto a garment part to obtain width at a specific place. mouth folded and stitched.

Gorge — The edge of the forepart to which, the collarstand or neck band is joined.

Grading — The process of producing a range ofpatterns of different sizes from a master pattern.

Grain — The direction of the warp of a fabric. Hencecutting straight grain means cutting parallel with thegrain, that is, warp.

G ridle — Undergarment worn by women and girls,designed to hold lower torso and sometimes legs; maybe flexible two way stretch or one way stretch elasticwith non stretchable fabric panels; hip to ankle —length, with or without garters.

Ground Sheet — Ground sheet is a rectangularwaterproof sheet made from rubber proofed light weightdouble textured fabric hemmed and fitted with eyeletsand washers on its four sides.

Grown-on Facing — The formation of a facing byfolding back the material edge.

Gun Flap — Style detail on a french coat, the extralayer of cloth across the shoulder.

Hose — Knitted item of wearing apparel covering thefoot and leg; also called hosiery or stockings. Currentusage suggests that hose refers to the more transparentand decorative varieties, while “stockings” is used forheavier varieties of a more utilitarian nature.

Impression — Of pressing. Surface unevenness atlerpressing, usually around areas of extra thickness, suchas pockets and seams.

Inlay — An extra allowance besides the usual seamallowance inside the garment for letting out, if required,or for strength at a given position.

Inserted Seam — A seam in which a single or numberof plies of material is inserted between two others whichare turned in. The complete assembly is sewn in oneoperation.

Interlacing — The passing of a thread over or aroundanother thread or loop of @netherthread.

Interlining — A layer of material inserted in betweenthe inner and outer fabric for shape retention, strength,warmth or bulk of the garment.

Gusset — A piece of material let into a garment to Intralooping — The passing of a loop of thread through

strengthen, shape or enlarge it. another loop formed by the same thread.

Hanger — A loop or loops fixed on a garment forJacket — (a) Item of apparel, usually shorter than

hanging it up.hip-length, designed to be worn over other clothingeither indoors or outdoors. Some are made in double-

Haversack — The haversack is a rectangular bag and breasted or single-breasted manner others have no

has a flap secured by two small straps and buckles. The closing, and some are closed with a zipper. (b) A short

interior of the haversack is divided longitudinally by a coat.

partition of cotton dosuti which in turn-is connected tothe front of the bag to form two compartments. The

Jetted Pocket — A pocket having a mouth on

haversack is provided with a pair of tabs on eachwhich the edges are finished by the application of

side of the top of the flap and the back and twojettings.

buckles with clips at the bottom. A pair of buckles Jetting — A narrow strip of fabric, usually cut

6

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1‘,,

warpwise, sewn parallel to the pocket opening andturned over the pocket mouth edge.

Jigger — The button on the inside of a double-breastedcoat (usually sewn with a long shank).

Jumper — Women’s and children’s sleevelessgarment, similar to a dress but usually beltless, wornover a sleeved blouse, sweater, or shirt.

Kilmono Sleeve — Generally used to describe anyloose fitting, wide sleeve cut in one with the body ofthe garment. The term derives from the traditionalgarment of Japan.

Kit Bag, Universal — The kit bag is used for keepingthe outfit necessary for soldier. Usually it is cylindricalin shape and the closure is affected by means of astring provided at the top. It is made usually fromcotton duck of 475 gfmz.

Knife Pleat — A pleat with the folds lying flat andfacing in one direction.

Lapel — The upper forepart of the front edge of ajacket or coat which folds back. The length of the lapelextends from the gorge seam to the break.

Lapel Roll — The fall and curl of the lapel downwardsfrom the break seam of the collar to the first button.The term ‘roll’ applies chiefly to a sotl finish lapel,not one which is pressed almost flat on the crease line.

Lap-Felled Seam — A seam formed with the edgesof both plies of ,material concealed by interlapping.Two or more rows of stitches secure the turned piecesof material.

Lashing — The fastening of the inside seams of acoat edgings or facings to the outer material orinterlining in order to hold them in position. Usuallysewn by a blind stitch machine.

Lay — An assembly of materials placed one on topof another in preparation for cutting.

Laying Up (Spreading) — The process of spreadingmaterial to form a lay.

Lay Planning (Layout Planning) — The arrangingof patterns, also called as markers; of the componentparts of a garment within given width of material inorder to obtain the most economical use of thematerial.

Leaf Edge — The outer or fall edge of the collar.

Ligne — A standard measure, equal to 0.635 mm (thatis, 1/40 inch) by which buttons and ribbons aremeasured.

Lining — Material used to cover part of all of theinside of a garment.

L,inking — The process of joining knitted garment

IS 14281:2004

parts on a linking machine, in which individual loopsfrom two fabrics are run on to a series of regularlyspaced points and then joined by chain stitches.

Lock Stitch — The plain stitch in which two separatethreads are used. In formation, one thread is passedthrough the material, forming a loop, while the secondis passed through the loop on the underside of thematerial. This loop is pulled into the material bringingwith it the locking thread.

Loop Stitch — A type of hand stitch used foroversewing edges so as not to increase their thicknessby having an edge turned in.

Make Through — The traditional method of garmentmanufacture, in which one operator completelyassembles one garment at a time.

Marking In — Marking around the componentgarment patterns with chalk or other means to indicatewhere material is to be cut. The term can also applyto marking with pencil when making paper markers.

Making Up — Converting material into garments.

Measure Cutting — The cutting of a garment toindividual measurements.

Mock Safety Stitch — A type of overedge stitch whichhas an appearance similar to that of a safety stitch onthe top surface of the material but has a common looperthread joining the two rows of stitching which can beseen underneath the fabric.

Model — (a) The original sample garment, and(b) The original garment made-up from a design.

Monofilament Thread — A thread comprising onecontinuous filament.

Mosquito Nets — This is usually made from wovenor knitted mesh fabric and cotton calico for protectionfrom mosquitoes. The nets have four tape draw stringsput cross-wise to hold the nets and the four endsprotruding out at the four comers of the nets for tyingpurposes. In addition, there are usually eight and fourtapes (cotton newar) ‘length and breadth-wiserespectively for tying purposes.

Moulding — The application of heat and/or pressureto material on a mould, to shape the garment orgarment parts.

Multifilament Thread — A thread comprisingnumber of individual, continuous filaments.

Nap — A fibrous surface produced on a fabric or feltin which part of the fibre is raised from the basicstructure. Such surfaces often show directional effects.

Neatening — Finishing a cut edge to prevent fraying.Various methods include turning in the edge, pinking,overedging and taping.

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IS 14281:2004

Neck Band — A band which goes around the neckpart of a garment.

Needle Damage — Damage caused to material by theneedle during sewing.

Nightgown — An item of apparel, styled similar to adress, worn by women and children for sleeping.Sometimes abbreviated to gown or nightie.

Non-woven Fabric — A manufactured laminarstructure consisting of fibres and/or filaments heldtogether by mechanical, chemical or physical meansor by a combination of these. The term does notinclude paper or fabrics which are woven, knitted,tufted, stitch bonded by a process incorporating wetmilling.

Notches — Small cuts made in the edges of garmentparts which are used as guides during garment assembly( see also Balance Marks).

Notched Lapel — Lapel on which top line slants downin line with coIlar seam.

Off Pressing (Pressing Off) — The final pressingoperations on a garment afler assembly.

Openness — The provision for leg stance in the angleof the leg seams.

Overall — Loose work garment usually designed tobe worn over every day clothes to give protection toclothes.

Overedging ( Overlooking, Serging ) — The use ofoveredge stitching either by hand or machine to bindthe edge to avoid fraying. It is sometimes used as adecoration and often described as overlooking orserging, if done by machine.

Overedge Stitch — A type of chain stitch, in whichthe needle thread loop is carried from the underside ofthe fabric over the edge and returned to the line ofstitching to be secured by the needle on its nextdownward stroke. Varying amounts of edge cover canbe obtained by using machine employing more threads.

Overlock Seam — A seam in which two or moreedges of material are joined together, oversewn andedge — trimmed in one operation, with overedgestitches having two or more threads.

Pack — The pack is a big rectangular bag and has aflap secured by the two small straps and buckles. Thepack is provided with a pair of tabs and buckles withchap at the back and a pair of web loops at the bottom.A pair of pockets, one on each side, is also providedfor carrying additional ammunition and binocular.

Pad — Any form of wadding, felt, foam or rubberinserted into a garment for the purpose of shape orfit.

Pad Stitching ( Padding) — The operation ofimparting shape by successive rows of sewing,normally at the lapels and collar.

Panties — Abbreviated term for women’s andchildren’s underpants’ garments worn under outerclothing covering torso below the waist.

Pantliner — Tight-fitting control panties comingover the knee to the calf or the ankle, worn underpants for sleek tit.

Pants — Clothing for the lower torso made to fitaround each leg; may be any length and width; somehave cuffs, some do not. Usually made with waistbandand fly-front or button closing.

Pantyhose — It is used to describe stockings andpanties cut in one piece and made in textured and sheernylon yams such as Cantrece and Agilon. First madein sizes for tall, medium and petite heights, later madein larger sizes. Introduced for men in fall 1970.Originally called tights, usually made in cotton andworn mostly by children and dancers.

Patch Pocket — A pocket formed by the applicationof a piece of material to the surface of a garment.

Peaked Lapel — Lapel on which the top line slants upfrom the horizontal.

Peticoat — Undergarment for a woman or a girl,similar to a slip, starting at the waist. Depending onovergarment, it may be full or narrow, lace-trimmedor tailored, and long or short.

Pin Tack — A small sewn pleat.

Pinking — Serrating of a materialfraying or to decorate a raw edge.

either to prevent

Piping — (a) A strip of material with or without afilling, applied folded, normally to the edge ofgarment. (b) A narrow fabric having a cordon oneedge. (c) The operation of applying piping.

Pitch — The balance insertion of the sleeve into thegarment, controlled by baltice marks in the scye line.

Placket — An opening provided in a garment or anextra piece of material applied to that opening forreinforcement or as a style feature, which mayincorporate fastenings.

Plain Seam — A seam formed by a row or rows ofstitches joining two pieces of material together face-to-face.

Plain Surface Fabric — A fabric which does not havean intentionally raised tibre or yam surface, such aspile, napped or tufted surface.

NOTE — Plain surface fabrics also include fabric having fancywoven or knitted patterns.

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Pleats — Regular folds in material, most commonlysharp, having one of a variety of configurations. Thefolds usually run in the lengthways direction of agarment giving a decorative effect and allowing forexpansion of the garment in the cross-section.

NOTES

1 True pleats comprise two opposing folds flattened to formthree layers of material. The top layer isvisible in tbe garment;the two lower layers arethe underlays. Other formationsknownas pleats (such as accordionpleats and sunraypleats) are simplycrease patterns inwhich the entire upper surface of the materialis visible.

2 ]fthe pleat is not sharp, it is specified to be unpressed.

Plugging — Fastening buttons by inserting a plugthrough the eyes of the shanks on the inside of agarment.

Ply — (a) Of fabric. A single thickness of material ina lay or seam. The number of plies in an assembly isthe number of material thickness. (b) Of thread. Anindividual yam in a thread. The number of plies in athread is the number of yarns which are twistedtogether to form the thread.

Pocket — A bag, pouch or similar container formedby the insertion or application of material to a garment.Pockets may have style features such as flaps, jettingsor welts (see also Patch Pocket).

NOTE — Garments may have style features which have theappearance of pockets but have no functional use.

Pocketing Cloth — A stout cotton cloth used formaking the pockets in men’s wear. A softer materialis used for the same pu~ose in women’s and children’swear. Pocketing cloth includes drill, satin, etc.

Poncho —(a) Fashion item shaped like a small blanketeither square or rectangular with hole in center for thehead, frequently fringed. (b) Utilitarian garmentconsisting of waterproofed fabric with a slash in thecenter for the head. When worn it was used as a raincape; when not worn could be used as a tarpaulin or ablanket. (c) Woman’s loose three-quarter length cloakworn in the 1860s with buttons from neck to hem, asmali standing collar, full sleeves — narrower at thewrist — with capes over the sleeves.

Pouches — The pouches are rectangular cases madeof webbing having box like lid, fitted with quickrelease attachment on front for securing the lid. Thepouches are provided with aluminium alloy work andbuckle on the back for attachment with belt andshoulder strap.

Pre-shrunk — A term applied to textile material thathas been shrunk to predetermined dimensions in order

~tb minimize shrinkage in use.

Pressing — The removing or creating of creases orshape in materials by heat and/or steam and/or vacuumor a combination of these with pressure.

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IS 14281:2004

Prick Stitch — A stitch made by passing the needlestraight through the material at right angles to thesurface, alternately from one side to the other.

Profile Stitching — Sewing along a pre — determinedprofile ( see also Contour Stitching).

Progressive Bundle System — A production systemin which bundles pass from one operator to the nextwith some work in hand at each operation. Theoperations are laid out in sequence with requirednumber of machine for approximate balance allocatedto each.

Progressive Line System — A production system inwhich single garments or parts are assembled. Duringassembly, the parts are passed from one operator tothe next resulting in some work in hand.

Puff — A small wedge of the material sewn on to ‘V’cut at various positions in canvas or lining — makingto accommodate a prominence, such as the shoulderbones.

Puffed Sleeve — A short sleeve which finishes abovethe elbow and has fullness gathered at either the sleevecrown or the sleeve hem, and frequently at both.

Pullover — Sweater or shirt without a complete frontopening.

Quilting— The production of a raised or padded effectby stitching or other means in two layers of material— lined or interlined with wadding or similar material.The stitching, etc, may be in parallel rows or to apattern.

Raincoat — Clothing originally designed to be wornin rainy weather, now also worn as top coat; made ofwaterproof material or regular fabric given a specialsurface finish to make it water-repellent.

Raglan Sleeve — A sleeve with the armhole lineextending from the from and back scye to the neckpoint so that the shoulder section is joined to the sleevecrown, eliminating the conventional shoulder andsleeve head seams. ,

Rolled Seam — A seam where the two edges of thematerial to be joined are rolled together and securedby a single row of stitching.

Ruffling — A form of gathering.

Running Stitch — A continuous stitch formed bypassing the thread through the material alternately fromtop to underside and vice versa.

Safety Stitch — A stitch formed by an over-edge stitchreinforced by a chain stitch ( or sometimes lock stitch)tiu-ther in from the material edge.

Scarf — (a) Decorative or utilitarian accessory worndrapped around the shoulders, the neck, or over the

IS 1428L: 2004

head for warmth or adornment. Maybe square, oblong,or triangular and made of knitted, crocheted or wovenfabric. (b) A decorative sash worn diagonally fromshoulder to opposite hip, or may be drapped aroundthe body to form clothing, for example halter, straplessbra. (c) Extremely large cravat which spread over shirtfront and fastened with a decorative tie pin.

Scye — The armhole.

Seam — The line or junction to hold two or morepieces of material.

with the raw edges turned in,

Sewing Round — Sewing round the edges of a coatto join the outer material to the facing or the facingand lining.

Sham Hole — An imitation button hole. A doublerow of stitching inserted in the fabric to simulate abutton hole.

Shirring — A type of gathering which is usually donewith multi-needle chain stitch machines using elasticthread in the looper.

Seam Allowance (Seam Margin) —A predeterminedamount of material between the edge of component Shorts — Pants shorter than knee length worn mainly

parts of the garment and the seam line. by adults and children for sportswear.

Seams and Pleats Accordion Pleats —Narrow straight Signal Despatch Service Bag — Signal dispatch

pleats usually parallel to one another. service bag is used for transportation of importantmail and has provision for closure and sealing. The

Seam Busting ( Seam Opening) — Pressure open body of the bag is made of rubber-proofed doubleseams, often carried out as an intermediate operation textured fabric.during garment assembly to evenly distribute the seamallowance on opposite sides.

Seam Grim (Grinning) — Gaping of seam under stressusually due to inadequate thread tension at sewing.

Seaming — Joining together the component parts of agarment.

Seam Pucker (Pucker) — Generally unwantedmaterial waviness along the line of stitching.

Seam Slippage — The movement of warp and wefithreads away from a seam line under transverse stress.

Sear Service Condition — The specific conditionsunder which a garment is worn (for example, at school,at leisure or at home).

Seat — Part of trousers or similar garments coveringthe buttocks.

Seat Angle — The quantity of material (5 to 8 cm )allowed at the seat on the underside for better fitting.

Selvedge — The longitudinal edges of a textile fabric,formed in such a way that the component threadsare interlaced to prevent them from unraveling orfraying.

Set-in Sleeve — A sleeve which is set into the scye.

Sewing Out — Sewing parts of a garment together withthe raw edges turned in.

Silhouette — Contour or outline of total look as shownin solid black on a white background. Similar to ablack shadow cast on a white wall. As it pertains tofashion, widely used to indicate trend in length andgeneral outline.

Single Breasted —A style of coat or any upper garmentwith minimum overlap and a centre front fastening.

Size Code — A system of symbols, numerals.alphabetical letters, signs or a combination of these usedto represent a measurement set or dimension which, inuse, indicate size suitability to an intended wearer.

Skirt — Garment covering the body below thewaistline and extending from the waist to nearly andlength depending upon the fashion. The lower end ofthe skirt must enclose both the legs in a single opening.

Skipped Stitch —A stitch which appears twice as longas the other stitches in a line of stitches. It is caused byfailure in the stitch formtion allowing the needle threadto return to the surface without being held by the lowerstitch forming part (looper or hook).

Sleeve — That part of a garment which covers all orpart of the arm. Examples include; magyar sleeve,raglan sleeve and set-in sleeve (see Fig. 2).

Sleeve Crown — The top section of the sleeve headwhich extends on either side of the shoulder seam(see Fig. 2).

Sewing Round — Sewing round the edges of a coat to Sleeve Head — That part of the sleeve which is joinedjoin the outer material to the facing or the facing and to the scye (see Fig. 2).lining.

Slide Fastener (Zip Fastener) — A fastening deviceSewing Thread — A folded yam made by twisting consisting of two flexible, interlocking stringers (withtogether two or more single yams or a multifilament or without end stops) and a slider so arranged that byyarn or a monofilament yam suitable for sewing. moving the slider along the stringers in one direction,

Sewing Out — Sewing parts of a garment togetheran ope~ing is formed ‘md by moving it in the other,

----.. *_.A

IS 14281:2004

~he opening is closed. The end which is adjacent tohe slider when the device is fully opened is designated

1he bottom end. The other end is designated the topnd.

6lip — (a) Undergarment worn by women and girls

1eginning’ above tie bust usually ‘held in place withboulder straps. Length is long or short in relation tohe dress worn over or on top. (b) Acts as lining foremi transparent dresses.

1piking — The use of spikes fixed to one edge of ainged table to facilitate the even laying up of fine

tnaterials. The table top is tilted vertically for hangingthe material and back to the horizontal for cutting othername is pinning.

Spray Marking — A method of outlining patternsprior to cutting by spraying over the lay, leaving thepattern area as a silhouette. which can then be cut out.

Stay Tape — A narrow strip of firmly woven fabric,plain weave and non -stretch, usually with linen warpand cotton weft, used for strengthening or controllingvarious parts of a garment.

Stitch — Generally, the fundamental repeating unitproduced by sewing material with one or more sewingthreads.

Stitch-Bonded Fabric: Sew-Knit Fabric — A multi-component fabric, one component of which is a seriesof interloped stitches running along the fabric length.The other components may be fibre web or batt, yams,or pre-formed fabric. Examples of stitch-bondedfabrics are:

a) a tibre web or batt bonded by stitching yams(Arachne, Maliwatt);

b) cross-laid yarns with or without machine —direction yarns bonded by stitching yarns(Malimo);

c) a structure in which either the sewing yams orother threads lying in the machine direction aretaken over sinkers to form loop pile (Araloop,Malipol); and

d) a structure in which the stitching loops areformed from the fibres of the web or batt(Arabeva, Malivlies).

Stitch (Schiffi Embroidery) — (a) An interlacing ofthe needle thread with the cop thread. (b) The distancebetween two adjacent interlacing.

Stitch Cam (Weft Knitting) — That part of a knittingmachine that is used for actuating needles or sinkersto draw new loops.

Stitch Density (Knitted Fabric) — The product ofwale density and course density.

Stitch Holding (Weft Knitting) — The retention of astitch by a needle for the purposes of patterning orshaping.

Stitch (Knitting) — An intermeshed loop (seeFig. 3).

Stitch Length (Knitting) — The length of yam in aknitted Ioop.

Stitch Transfer (Weft Knitting) — The transfer of astitch from the needle on which it was formed on toanother needle for the purpose of patterning or shaping.

Stitch Type (Sewing) — A forrhal description of theconfiguration of recurring stitches used in sewing.

FIG. 2 STICH (KNITTING) FIG. 3 SLEEVE HEAD

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Is 14281:2004

NOTE— EightclassesofmachiningstitchtypearedefinedhIS10789:2000‘Classificationandterminologyofstitchtypesused inseams’ .Theseare summarised as follows:

Class 100 Chainstitch

Class 200 Hsmdstitch(simulated)

Class 300 Lockstitch

Class 400 Multi-thread chainstitch

Class 500 Overedge chainstitch

Class 600 Flat seam stitch

Class 700 Single thread Iockstitch

Class 800 Combination stitch

Stoting —Hand stitching to draw together two cutedges of material.

Sun Ray Pleats — Pleats radiating from a single point,usually the centre of full circular skirts.

Suppression (Shape) — The creation of shape byremoval of material from the surface area of thegarment.

Swelled Sewn Edges — An effect achieved by a rowof stitching at a specific and regular distance from thefinished edge of a garment.

Swimsuit — Sportswear designed to be worn at thebeach, the swimming pool, for sunbathing, orswimming.

Tab Collar — Shirt collar made with two short tabswhich fasten under the tie knot together, to the shirtneckband or with a collar button.

Tacking — Machine or hand stitching, sometimesdecorative, to reinforce parts of a garment ( see BarTacking). In some sections of the industry, this termis also used to describe the temporary joining togetherof parts of a garment, prior to final sewing (see alsoBasting).

Taped Seam — A seam which includes straight tape.Normally used to prevent or control stretching and forstrength.

Teddy — One piece sleep garment with low-cut wrap-style front, high cut legs, and elasticised waistline.Often made of nylon satin or georgette trimmed withlace or ruffles. Can also be worn as an undergarment.

Tent — Tent is temporary shelter for housing ofpersons, stores, canteens, operation theatres, hospitalwards etc. These are designed keeping in view the enduse requirements, for example accommodation,climatic conditions, protection from heat, cold andrain, camouflaging, ease of production, ease oftransportation, ease of portability and comfort.

Thread Marking — (a) Tempera@ stitches to markthe fitting lines of a bespoke garment. (b) Markingkey positions such as pockets and darts by means ofthreads inserted through all the plies of a lay with a

thread marking machine.

Ticket Number — The number assigned to a sewingthread to designate its approximate linear density.

NOTE— The ticket number is an indicator of the fineness ofthe thread. The smaller the number the finer the thread andthe larger the number, the coarser the thread.

Ticket Pocket — A small pocket placed at the waistlevel or just above it on the left side of upper garmentand/or right side at waist level of the nether garmentmade in the same style as the other pockets on thegarments.

Top Stitching — Forming exposed stitching on theface side of the garment/component normally sewn ata uniform distance from a seam. Mainly used asreinforcement or decoration.

Top Side — Of trousers. The front section of trousers,extending from the trousers bottom to the waistband,and between the inside and side seams.

Torso — Overblouse that fits snugly and extends tohips.

Towels-Operating — Towel, operating is a 106 cm x

90 cm towel made from dosuti and is used for wipinghands after post operation washing by the surgical team.

Trimmings — The accessories required for making andornamenting of any article of dress, curtains, hangingsor drapery. The term trimming has wide applications.To the tailor, trimmings are canvas, linings, buttons,etc; to the designer or dress maker, these are linings,braids, buttons, hooks and eyes, tapes, buttons, etc.

Try-On — The individual fitting ofa garment for thepurpose of confirming the size, shape and fit, eitherbefore or after the garment is completed.

Tunic — Thigh-length, sleeved or sleevelessoverblouse, usually slightly fitted and beltless; wornover skirt, slacks or alone as short dress.

Turn-Ups — Of trousers. The bottoms of trouser legs,folded and turned back on the outside, with the rawedges hemmed on the inside.

Undersides — Of trousers. The back section oftrousers, extending from the trousers bottom to thewaistband, and between the inside and side seams.

Underpressing — The pressing operations carried outduring assembly of the garment usually seam opening.

Veil —(a) Decorative accessory usually made of lace,net, tulle, or sheer fabric, placed on the head andusually draped down the back. May also drape overthe face and shoulders. (b) Piece of net or tulle attachedto a hat.

Vent — (a) A short opening in the hem of a garment.(b) An opening in a garment to provide ventilation.

12

IS 14281:2004

Wadding — A loose, cohering mass of fibre, usuallyin the form of a sheet or roll used as padding in themaking up of garments.

Waistband — A narrow piece of material, binding oran assembly attached to the waist of agarrnent.

Wash and Wear — A generic term applied togarments which satisfactorily retain their original neatappearance after repeated wear and suitable homelaundering with little or no pressing or ironing.

Wear Level — The number of wear-refurbishingcycles to which an item has been subjected.

Wear-Refurbishing Cycle — For a specific weartesting programme, one complete series of events thatwill be terminated by laundering or dry cleaning.

NOTE—Adescriptionofawear-refurbishingcycle usuallyincludes the numberof hours worn and the number of wearingan item receives prior to refurbishing (that is, laundering ordry cleaning, or both).

Wear Service Condition — The specific conditionsunder which a garment is worn (for example, at school,at leisure or at home).

Wear Test — A test in which textile garroents aresubjected to wear service conditions and evaluated forperformance.

Wear-Wrinkle Resistant — A term applied to textile

fabrics which satisfactorily maintain their appearanceby recovery from sharp folds imposed during wear.

Welt — The extanded edge of a pocket cut. A foldedpiece of material attached to form a finished edge of apocket opening.

Whole Back — A garment back cut in one piece,not two or more as is common in tailored garments.

Width of Crotch; Width of Crutch; Fork Quantity— The measurement in bifurcated garments of thedistance through the trunk, from front to back, measuredthough a point where the legs join the trunk.

Workwear — Garments designed chiefly to providea measure of general protection in use. Normallyunderstood to exclude garments for protection againstspecific hazards where the term ‘protective clothing’is more generally used.

Yoke — (a) For garments — The upper section of agarment covering the front and/or back from theshoulder seams, usually to chest level. This section isseparately sewn to the main body of the garment. (b)For made-up items for defence applications — Theyoke is a type of web sling made from three pieces ofthick webbings, tipped at both ends. It is provided withdetachable pads. The pad is a component provided withthree loops on one side of 63 mm thin web and otherside with a latex foam pad covered with cotton drill.

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Bureau of Indian Standards

BIS is a statutory institution established under the Bureau of Indian Standards Act, 1986 to promoteharmonious development of the activities of standardization, marki~g and quality certification of goods andattending to connected matters in the country.

Copyright

B]S has the copyright of all its publications. No part of these publications may be reproduced in any formwithout the prior permission in writing of BIS. This does not preclude the free use, in the course of implementingthe standard, of necessary details, such as symbols and sizes, type or grade designations. Enquiries relating tocopyright be addressed to the Director (Publications), BIS.

Review of Indian Standards

Amendments are issued to standards as the need arises on the basis of comments. Standards are also reviewedperiodically; a standard along with amendments is reaffirmed when such review indicates that no changes areneeded; if the review indicates that changes are needed, it is taken up for revision. Users of Indian Standardsshould ascertain that they are in possession of the latest amendments or edition by referring to the latest issue of‘BIS Catalogue’ and’ Standards: Monthly Additions’.

This Indian Standard has been developed from Dot: No. TX 20 (0558).

Amendments Issued Since Publication

Amend No. Date of Issue Text Affected

BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS

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Printed at Simco Printing Press,Delhi

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