issue 240 january 2021 poultrynz
TRANSCRIPT
Ian Selby Ph: 06 754 6262 Email: [email protected]
06
03 1102
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PoultrynzPOULTRYNZ
OUR PRODUCT CATALOGUE
Issue 240 January 2021
CLEANLINESSTHE IMPORTANCE OF KEEPING
THE COOP CLEAN
10 MAKING UP LARGE OLD ENGLISH GAME SPANGLES
04
RECIPEAVOCADO & PRAWN TART
WHITE
COLLECTING POULTRY MEMORABILIA
DOUBLE MATING OF PLYMOUTH BARRED ROCKS
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Epsom Salts 4kg $15.00 $8.00 $18.00
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Poultrynz Editorial.I trust everyone had a good break over the Christmas period and are all energized for 2021. This year the Poultrynz Newsletter will come to you every two weeks.I am so pleased with my progress on developing my own Buff Plymouth Rock Bantams. I have kept 19 chicks so far. Of those 19, 5 have clean yellow legs, 4 have clean white legs and the others show feathers on their legs, half of these are better feathered than
some Pekin Bantams. I now have the stock to carry on with but I am still expecting to get feathered legged chicks next year. However I am pleased with their progress and all that is needed now is to get a light even top colour on both the Cockerels and the Pul-lets.I am sure others are pleased with their youngsters too.Until next issue. Regards, Ian Selby.
POULTRYNZ Will be at the
Horowhenua AP&I ShowVictoria St, Levin
23 and 24 January 2021All the Poultrynz Products
will be on salePoultry For Sale and Display
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INGREDIENTS
METHOD• Preheat oven to hot, 200°C. Line an oven tray with
baking paper.• Place pastry on tray. Roll 2 opposite sides over 2cm to
form a rectangle. Bake for 10-15 minutes until puffed and golden. Cool slightly, then press down centre.
• In a bowl, combine the mayonnaise, chilli sauce and lime zest. Spread over the centre of the cooled pastry.
• In a large bowl, combine prawns, tomatoes, avocado, onion, coriander, oil and juice. Season to taste and toss gently. Pile into pastry case. Serve with guacamole.
AVOCADO & PRAWN TART
Serves 41 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed¼ cup egg mayonnaise2 teaspoons sweet chilli sauce½ teaspoon lime zest, finely grated500g medium cooked prawns, peeled, deveined250g punnet mixed baby tomatoes, halved1 avocado, seeded, sliced1 small red onion, finely sliced½ cup coriander leaves2 tablespoons olive oil1 tablespoon lime juice Guacamole to serve
NZ POULTRY STANDARDS
$70+$8.50 postage
Hardback 310 pages
Ringbinder 310 pages
The defi nitive guide to standards for judging and showing poultry in New Zealand
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WHITEby Fred Jeffery, USA.
There are forty nine breeds of ban-tams with white varieties - the
most common colour. A large number of breeds are represented by white va-rieties of very high quality. White may be produced in a large number of ways as shown in the plumage colour mod-el. Some of these are:1. Recessive white which covers
up both black and red, although it does a more complete job on black than on red.
2. Dominant white which is very effective in covering up black but much less effective against red. Some light coloured red piles are pure for dominant white and many high quality exhibition red pile males have deep red hackles, backs and saddles.
3. Red-splashed white is interesting because it changes coloured birds to white. It is effective in covering up black but not quite as efficient in covering up red.
4. Blue splashed white reduces black to blue splashing on a white ground. It is ineffective against red as may be seen in the splash wheaten.
Exhibition whites should be pure white in all sections and it is of con-siderable interest, therefore, to know how pure whites may best be bred. Evidence is rather good that this can be done with recessive white on an extended black background with the
addition of blue. The author has an-alysed two strains of recessive white Old English Game and found both of them to be as indicated above and in addition it was found that both car-ried gold as well as silver. Perhaps they carry gold because most good strains of blacks carry it.
There are beau-tiful pure white strains of White Leghorns which carry dominant white. On the ba-sis of reports in the literature it is probable that these Leghorns carry extended black,
barring or sex-linked dilution, and in some cases, blue.
On a theoretical basis one would ex-pect a strain which carries both reces-sive white and dominant white to be pure white.
White Orpingtons
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Good pullets and cocker-els may be produced from the same mating. The two most troublesome defects in whites are creaminess and brassiness. Creaminess
is evident throughout the entire feather as well as in the undercolour. The ten-dency towards creaminess is inherited but its inci-dence and severity may be reduced by feeding wheat or oats in place of yellow corn or green feed. Brass-iness is limited to the sur-face of feathers in the male hackle, back, saddle, and wing bows. Degree of brass-iness is affected by exposure to direct sunlight but the basic defect is inherited and must be selected against. A good “stay-white” bird will take a little sunlight without becoming brassy. It is much more difficult to produce pure white males than fe-males.
If a breeder of recessive whites has a problem with brassiness in males and still wants to continue the strain, then it is recom-mended that he cross his whites with good blacks of the same breed. The first generation need not be a large one because all birds will look about the same - pullets should be pure black and the cockerels black with gold or silver breaks in hackle and saddle. The sec-ond generation will consist of three quarters black and one quarter white and all the blacks may be discarded at hatching time. With a lit-tle selection over the years the breeder should end up with a pure white strain.
Down colour in white strains is not a reliable in-dex of purity of white at maturity. Chicks with red or buff ish downs should be culled at hatching be-cause it is most unlikely that
their adult plumage will be pure white. Dusky or sooty down, on the other hand, frequently is a good index - many such chicks will be pure white as adults. Some strains of White Plymouth Rocks are so blackish at hatching that one can do a reasonably good job in sep-arating the sexes on the ba-sis of size and character of the white head spot.
White “sports” are re-ported frequently from matings of coloured birds. Most of them can be ac-counted for on the basis of a chance mating of two birds heterozygous for re-cessive white. Such sports have been used to start new strains as shown in the re-port of Latham (1892):
“Several years ago I was raising Silver Laced Wyan-dottes, and from one of my hatches I had a pure white chick which developed into a fine cockerel with all the characteristics of the Silver Laced Wyandottes, except-ing that his plumage was pure white and a fine yellow beak and legs. The following spring I mated him with a pen of Silver Laced Wyan-dotte pullets that were quite light in colour. Result: a good hatch of Silver Laced Wyan-dottes - not a white one in the lot. I took six of the pul-lets and mated them with the cockerel again but this time one third of the chicks were white, the balance, be-ing laced like the pullets. The white ones were bred togeth-er the following season and every chick hatched was pure white.”
White Plymouth Rocks
By R. Sturgeon
Ideal book for beginners. A5 size, 42 pages, 6 in colour
A Guide To Poultry Breeding
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It should be clearly understood that in
breeding Barred Plymouth Rocks, there are two distinct lines of blood - the dark male line and the light coloured female line should these two lines become intermingled, the result is unsatisfactory.Many mistakes are made in selecting the colour of the male. There is a shade of colour to breed and hold, and great care must be made in the selection of the breeders. You must have a keen eye for the minute differences in colouring - or successful matings can not be made.The former, in breeders’ terms, is known as Cockerel Breeders, the latter as Pullet Breeders.To avoid the strains becoming mixed it is advised that only the one line of blood be bred. Thus, top class success is more certain. It should be noted that this applies to all breeds and varieties. Many of the world’s skilled breeders know this fact which helped them to become famous for the high grade stock they produced, sought by buyers throughout the world.A breeder may have several matings in his yards all intended to obtain the same shade of colour in the progeny. No two of them may be mated the same way, apparently, but the results will be alike in each case. Not only must care be used in selecting the colour of the male, but equal care must be taken of the character of the barring. A fine exhibition female must have straight
barring, and show the barring down to the skin.The first two or three of the dark bars on the feather should be bright, strong and clearly defined. These are outer or surface barring. The barring of the undercolour, while of less importance, must be sharply defined and of sufficient strength in the dark bar to hold the colour, otherwise when the pullet moults and becomes a hen, the undercolour fades to nearly or quite white.A first-class pullet should hold her colour, both top and under, and be equally as fine as a hen. It is seldom we see a light coloured pullet breeding male that has an even barred tail, but he should have straight stiff feathers finely barred with sickle feathers and tail coverts well barred on the surface.Many mistake the term “very light-coloured male”
DOUBLE MATING OF PLYMOUTH BARRED ROCKS
by Wal Scott, Australia, 1964.
Barred Plymouth Rocks used in Double Mating
Poultrynz7
and think it means one that has very little if any barring that is clear. White in undercolour and a very light grey colour all over can still be finely barred and barred to the skin.In order to breed females of standard coloured plumage, that is, “bluish grey barred with lines of a darker blue that stops short of a positive black,” it is necessary to use a male of much lighter colour than the female. In cases where the females in a breeding pen are a little too dark in colour to be standard, and where it is desired to breed pullets from this mating lighter in colour than their dams, a male must be used that is still lighter in colour. In some cases the ground colour should be nearly white with the dark barring in proportion.Rich yellow legs and beak are much desired qualities in the Plymouth Rocks, but they are difficult to acquire and hold, for nature seems bound to add a little dark colour in the legs and beaks, if there is sufficient dark colour in the plumage to give a strong sharp barring which extends to the skin.Yellow legs and beaks can only be acquired and retained by years of careful selection. If the male has the slightest dark colour beneath scales or shanks - even in very small spots and few and far between, it nearly always shows up in increased quantities in that sire’s daughter. If we could always breed from the male we should like to have in the flock, we could have superb yellow legs and beaks, but such a bird is rarely seen. He may have yellow legs and beak and pass them on to his progeny, but he is sure to give them something else which we would rather not have.If we devote all our attention to perfecting one section of the birds, some of the other sections lose; bear this in mind.We must breed the best we can, always using the best birds for our breeding stock. However, no one need think this is going to be an easy task. Each little improvement will come only after long, careful, painstaking study and work. This applies very much to many breeds and varieties which have slipped back in quality through fads, careless breeding and inability
to import from abroad. Incompetent adjudicating has also played a part in deterioration.A good exhibition bird must show the “zebra stripes,” particularly on the rounded portion of the neck, breast, wing-bow and back. To get this, the bird must have a fine rounded shape, combined with plumage that has each feather tipped with a dark bar, and the dark bars must be narrower than the light ones. If the dark bar is wide, and the light bar narrow, the bird will have a mottled look and the barring will run together, resulting in a less attractive bird.Some females have poor wing markings. Males frequently have too dense barring on their wing bows. These faults are hard to breed out of a strain and many times, where a good result is expected, there is disappointment. Many good wings in females are obtained from males that apparently had poor wings, for instance the usual defect in wing colour is having the dark colour predominating or the light bars showing excessive width and a lack of barring, the colours being clouded together instead of being distinct.If the male is bred from a female that had nicely barred wings, even though he has wings light in colour and predominating, and the feathers are not well barred, he is still a good
bird to use. A good exhibition female should have a tail which, when spread out, will show each feather well barred to the tip. This is not obtained by breeding from a male with coarse and few bars to a feather.that are produced from the blues. By mating blue bred blacks to the splash whites one would produce almost one hundred per cent pure blues, but these would be various shades of blue.In my personal opinion it matters little what the shade of blue, provided it does not get too dark or sooty, or too washy in colour. It must be a clear colour with no lacing on the outer edges of the feathers.There are several other colours such as Buffs, Cuckoos, Brown-Reds, Birchens and Mottled, so anyone who decides to breed Pekins has a good selection of colours from which to choose.
Barred Plymouth Rock Bantams
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COLLECTING POULTRY MEMORABILIA
by Ian Selby.
Collecting Poultry Memorabilia is always
a rewarding part of keeping Fowls. I can remember my first investment from the American Bantam Association when I bought an American Bantam Standard and two of the American Bantam Associations Books on Bantams. That was back in the 1970’s when an old guy called Bill Gordon of Oamaru sent me a couple of copies of the American “Bantam Newspaper”. The whole World of learning more seriously about Poultry started then and I have been collecting all sorts of Poultry “Stuff ” ever since.
Last year I decided to break up my collection so that others can get the same enjoyment as I have had over the past 50 years. My main interest was always in the early prints of Poultry. These came from all over the world but the accumulation of books by the Worlds best writers on types of Poultry gave me the knowledge needed to breed good Poultry of which I was fortunate enough to be successful at.
I have mentioned “Investment” and that is what collecting “Poultry Memorabilia” really is. Collecting these books, prints, cards and other memorabilia not only has a monetary value but an investment in yourself to gain practical knowledge to be a better Poultry Keeper. This applies to all walks of life too like sports and other hobbies, one finds out were you can from to allow you to see where you are going. This has worked extremely
well for me in watching improvement in the Fowls you are breeding.
Back in 2009 an Englishman David Scrivener and I put together the first edition of a 60 page book called “A Guide to British Fancy Pigeon & Poultry Magazine, Prints and Postcards.” Unfortunately David has passed away since but it was a great legacy that he left us, something that was needed. There were plenty of gaps to be filled and other martial to be found which makes this hobby of collecting so interesting. In this book, between the two of us we had all most every item, unfortunately the photos were the ones I had because David lived on the other side of the world. For me it was an honour to work along side a respected man who wrote several books on Poultry and Bantams including parts of the British Poultry Standard.
The foundation has been set by the way of this guideline so that collectors can start hunting for what they have missing from their collections.
So where do we get these pieces of treasures? I got a lot of mine through Ebay and Trademe but also people who know that you are a collector of Poultry Memorabilia often have what you are looking for. In New Zealand there are few collectors but in Australia, USA and especially the UK there are a large number. I have dealt with people in Europe, South America and South Africa too. So the more serious collectors are there. The big advantage these days is Facebook, there are groups like “Fowl
My first purchase from the ABA
Don’t Miss an IssueAUSTRALASIAN POULTRY
MAGAZINE
Fancy FowlRare Breeds
Breeder Profi lesTips and Tricks
NutritionShow Reports
GeneticsHealth
Breeding SecretsBackyard Breeds
Show DatesWaterfowl
ManagementHousingTurkeys
Game Birds
Australasian Poultry is the bible for every poultry keeper, from backyarder to breeder.
Subscriptions available – 6 issues per yearAustralia –$38, Asia/Pacifi c – $58AUD
Includes postage.
A PERFECT GIFT OR SHOW AWARDPoultry Information Publishers, PO Box 438, Seymour, Vic 3661
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Play”, “Old Poultry Book Shop” and “Poultry Books Forsale and Free” just to name a few.
The World has really opened up for the collector, much more than when I was collecting seriously.
Everything has a value, it has to have so the when you are buying, selling or swapping, the playing field is fair. Only a few items are expensive, good collectable books can be sourced at around the $50 mark while old prints are $20 to $30. However the rare ones do go into the $!00’s and sometimes $!,000’s and are worth the money just for the coloured plates in them.
But there is more to collecting these Poultry treasures. There are plenty of other items that are of interest. Books and Prints being the most popular but so are Postcards and Cigarette Cards, old Magazines and Newspapers. Just collecting local Poultry
Show prizecards, badges, ribbons and catalogues etc.
So in the next few weeks I will present articles on collecting of:
1. Books; 2. Prints; 3. Postcards and Cigarette
Cards; 4. Magazines and
Newspapers; and 5. Other collectables like
Badges, Prize Cards, Ribbons and other general interest.
If you decide to start collecting Poultry Memorabilia things will come your way eventually, I know with some of my prints that I desperately wanted to years to surface. Like all hobbies it is a patient game but one that is well worth while: Inte re s t i ng – Know l e d ge gaining – Valuable– and well worthwhile.Next issue: Collecting Poultry Books.
David Scriveners Collectors Guide.
Poultrynz10
MAKING UP LARGE OLD ENGLISH GAME SPANGLES
by the late Reg Tutty, Australia.
In breeding all poultry, there are several laws of
nature which we must al-ways bear in mind; they are:
Shape Makes The Breed, Colour Makes The Variety, so the first thing we must do is fix the type in our strain of old English game.
Size and shape come large-ly from the female, colour and furnishings are con-trolled mainly by the male.
Never overlook these im-portant facts when making up your breeding pens.FIRST MATING
I selected the very best ex-hibition type, spangle BAN-TAM cock, one that was sound in body and health. For colour he was the best show bird I could find, one that was as near as possible matched to the standard description in every way. The very best Spangle Ban-tam Cock I could find. I then looked for a Large Old
English Game Partridge Dark Leg Hen. A hen that excelled in shape and size (type) and sound in body and health, colour a rich even dark partridge colour.
From this mating I hatched as many eggs as possible, and from all the chicks hatched I selected the male that was the soundest for type, colour and leg colour and showing spangling. I kept the best pullet for type (size and shape), colour, leg colour and also showing signs of spangling.SECOND MATING
For this mating, I mated the cockerel and pullet re-tained from the first mating, and again hatched as many eggs as possible. From this mating, as was to be ex-pected in accordance with Mendel’s Law we have three types of fowls, large fowls, intermediate fowls and ban-tams. The intermediate and
bantams I disposed of, and from the remaining large fowls I again selected the best male for type, colour of body, leg colour and show-ing spangling and the best female for type, body col-our, leg colour and showing spangling.THIRD MATING
The cockerel and pullet retained from the second mating were then mated to-gether to give the third mat-ing. Once again breeding as many birds as possible and from these selecting the very best male and the very best pullet.FOURTH MATING
The cockerel and pullet re-tained from the third mat-ing were mated together to give the fourth mating, to-gether with a partridge dark leg hen of the same blood-line as the foundation hen. Again from both matings I hatched as many eggs as possible, and retaining only the very best for type, body colour, leg colour and span-
gling, and from the par-tridge dark leg hen retain-ing the very best pullet for colour, type, leg colour and spangling.
From here I was able to develop two related strains of large old English game spangles.
STANDARD FOR SPANGLES, MALES AND FEMALES (from British Poultry Standard):
“These have white tips to their feathers. The more of these spots and the more reg-ularly they are distributed the better. The male should show white ends to the feathers on hackle and sad-dle. The ground colour may be red, black or brown, or a mixture of all three. Under-fluff is white, eyes and face red, legs any colour or mot-tled to match the plumage.”
A definite preference is given by judges to birds with white or yellow legs.
Old English Game Spangle Cock
Old English Game Spangle Hen
Poultrynz11
Cleanliness, it is has been said, is next to godli-
ness. Whether that is true or not, it is a fact that unclean-liness is next to death. This is particularly true breeding and raising Poultry. Moreo-ver there is no such thing as being half clean. Your Fowl yards, whether big or small, are either clean or un-clean, and you cannot hide filth. You may think you’re breeding Poultry, but, if your facilities are not clean you are breeding disease. Being clean isn’t always the easiest but it is the most fun. It pays dividends in results.
Cleanliness should start with your initial actions when you decide to raise Fowls; it should enter your pattern of design for coops, pens, nests, brooders, roosts, etc. Things should be designed in the larger house so they are easily ac-cessible, and in the smaller house so they, are easily re-movable. Cleaning will take a certain amount of time so why add to other problems with a type of design that affords no assistance. Like-wise, the best in design is
useless if there is no desire to be clean, and no willing-ness to take the time neces-sary to accomplish it.
There are some questions such as to which came first the chicken or the egg, but insofar as we are concerned cleanliness comes first with both. Setting eggs should be clean (not washed), the incubator, if artificial in-cubation is being utilized, must be clean, and kept so, for good performance. If eggs are being hatched in nests by broodies, then the hen, the nest, the nesting material, and the entire area must be thoroughly clean at time of setting, and kept so during the entire period of incubation. A little paint, combined with both liquid and powder disinfectants will do the job 100%. Work D.E. powder into the feath-ers of your broodies at time of setting, and make sure that cracks in the nests have been sprayed. Remember the constant heat genera-tion during the period of incubation in a closely con-fined area is also an attrac-tion for lice and red mites.
A good dusting again on about the 10th day should protect things well until just before hatching. Remember a broody hen knows what to do with the eggs, when
to get off the nest, when to get on, when to eat, etc., but she needs help to combat her enemies - red mites and lice. She can’t draw clean water, that is up to you!
CLEANLINESSCourtesy of the American Bantam Association 1973.
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Clean and dry nest boxes are essential.
Cleanliness makes for happy hens.
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Clean eggs, a clean nest, and a clean broody will as-sist greatly in a satisfactory hatching of healthy chicks.
Once the chicks are out of the shell and running the litter must be kept clean and dry this is a must that never ends for all Fowls, young and old. It may be startling for you to find out that more Bantams hatched healthy, subsequently die, either directly or indirect-ly, from uncleanliness than from any other single cause.
Fowl runs indoors or in the open must be dry and clean, and those in the open should have a protected area. In coops and confined pens a good litter is wood shavings, not too coarse; straw is not as absorbent as shavings. Certain types of sawdust have been used satisfactorily. Put litter re-placement, nesting renew-al, and droppings removal
on a set schedule and it will become much less a chore. Believe it or not but you can actually see the birds enjoy it.
Now, a specific word on open (outdoor) runs. Na-ture will do considerable to maintain these in a semi-clean state, but, it is neces-sary, if cleanliness is to be as it should, for the breeder to give nature an assist by rak-ing out excess droppings, removing uneaten supple-mental foods, corn cobs, greens, etc., and turning up the soil to bring new, fresh to the surface. Occasionally based on area and weather conditions, the ground of all outdoor runs should be allowed to remain unused for a time to permit it to re-store and recondition itself. If you do not keep outdoor runs clean and reasonably fresh they also breed dis-ease, and if you do not think
they give off a disturbing odour it’s because your nose has got used to it.
Remember, cleanliness makes raising Poultry fun as well as successful; un-cleanliness breeds disease, ill-luck and discourage-ment. You can avoid the latter by making certain to follow the simple sugges-
tions above and developing regular cleaning habits. If you are going to attempt to show birds you’ll soon find out that even the most in-experienced judge can tell it a Fowl is from a yard kept clean or not. Uncleanliness fools no one, not even the breeder at the source.
Mother with chicks drinking.