issue 4 - the open issue

THE UNTOLD#4

Cover by Martyna Włodarczyk

index/ credits

credits

EDITOR Callum Bird. HEAD WRITER Jade Shaw CONTRIBUTIONS Laura Miucci, Margherita Calatiy, Kira Bucca, Josefien Hoekstra, Dirk Wilms, Martyna Wlodarczyk, Hari Lualhati.

index/ credits

PHOTOGRAPHY

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Laura Miucci

Margherita Calatiy

Kira Bucca

Margherita Calatiy

Josefien Hoekstra

Dirk Wilms

Martyna Włodarczyk

index

February2014Issue 4

ART

52 Hari Lualhati

ARTICLES

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A Real Furry Problem: Is Faux Still Safe?

Hats Off to Isabella Blow

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Tapes Color

Photography by

Laura Miucci, 25 from Italy

MUA & Hairstyling

byIlaria Rabbia, Michela

Riva & Serena

Tapes Color

Model: Alessandra Maria

Model: Alice Past

Model: Ilaria Rabbia Model: Paulina Nwosu

Laura Miucci was born on the 17th September 1988 in Como (Italy).Laura is an emerging Italian photographer and post producer.A passion for photography since childhood, she began to experiment in2012 by seriously working on photo shoots for all ideas are entirely her own. She also consideres herself as a stylist and post production retoucher, whilst she favors beauty and fashion photography as her main style to work in.

Someone once said that her photographs are an explosion of colours.She collaborates with magazines both home decor and lifestyle. Eclectic and multifaceted, her evolving loves are to travel and experience new photographic techniques, with the dream of working internationally in the near future.

Welcome to MyDolls House

Photography byMargherita Calatiy,

27 from Italy

Model:Alexandra Ciubotaru

Designer: VINTRICItwentynine®

Styling: Simone Vintrici

Make up: Anna Filosa

Hair styling: Celeste Calabrese & Manuela Crugliano

Calati is a freelance photographer from Italy with a speciality in portrait and fashion photography.

After studying architecture at Politecnico di Torino, and only after graduating with honors in March 2011 did Calati choose the way of photography. Having already gained technical knowledge through advanced courses and several workshops with professional photographer, he tries to work alone and build his own style.

In a few months he saw his work recognized by importable national web pages, magazine and successful brands and has the opportunity to collaborate with important professionals.

He loves to give a romantic and feminine touch to his photographs such as dream-like locations where everything is delicate.

For this work “Welcome to my Dollhouse”, Calati wanted something like a fairy tale. The house that he picked was pefect with aspects of elegance and classic richness. His model’s reflected this, with the blue-haired one already seeming to be a little doll-like with her eccentric and colourful clothes.

For this series, he got his inspiration from one of his favourite photographers - Tim Walker.

PhotographybyKira BuccaFrom New York CityModels: Ryan DanversStylist: eLeana KanellouGroomer: Briana Danielle ChapmanPhotography Assistant: Tam NguyenStylist Assistant: Aiesha Mumford

It’s a Boy ThingKira Bucca is a fashion, beauty and advertising photographer based in New York City. Her editorial work has been featured in several publica-tions including Beauty Etc., Chaos, Fantasticsmag, Fault, Obvious, Pa-percut, Plaid, Sessions, Tinsel Tokyo, VietSun, and Zink. Her highlighted fashion advertising clients include 5W, Barnard College, Benson, BGN (inter-national campaign), Isn’t She Lovely, Merc USA, Oxan, PR Factory, and Thea.

Kira’s photographic career began with shooting desert scenery while studying abroad in Australia, and continued with people and fashion pho-tography upon her return to North America. After completing her gradu-ate work in Toronto, she returned to the US to shoot fashion full time, and assist top photographers on assignments for Harper’s Bazaar, GQ, ELLE, and Ocean Drive. While most of her focus is on fashion, Kira recently ex-hibited a collection of personal works at the Skyline Gallery in New York.

“I don’t get to shoot enough guys. Everyone wants me to shoot women, which is lovely, but every once in a while I like to get my boy fix. This was pure indulgence for me. The location was near my home and has a conveniently European feel. I wanted something that would be very youthful boy. I haven’t shot a lot of stuff like this, and would like to change that. I wanted the clothing to be relatable, but fun.

I look to European magazines and art a lot. I like to mix my NYC feel with the elegance of Europe. I had noticed this one location, which is lit-erally a tiny patio and knew it would be perfect. The landlord of the space owns many cats and I figured it would be a nice touch to mix an adorable boy with adorable kittens, completely encapsulating youth.

A lot of my shoots are very planned, but I could tell from Ryan’s images that he has the right kind of personality to drive a shoot. I wanted to make this series more about Ryan and being young, sexy, but not being afraid of being soft and sensitive. On top of this, I wanted to keep the shoot from a female’s perfective: sexy, smart, sensitive, and personal. I wanted Ryan’s story to shine from behind his eyes.”

Top Left: Shirt: Christina Yi, Pants: NINH, Shoes: Aldo. Bottom Left: T-Shirt: Topman, Jacket: NINH

It’s a debate that has been rolling on for years. One that has been plastered in the news, in our favourite fash-ion magazines and even on the runway shows. It’s been fought for and against, passionately on both sides, and every time we think we may have heard the last of it, it flares back up with new vigour. And this time is no excep-tion, but there is a difference in the latest fur related fiasco; those against the use of fur have just found out some-thing that will make you re-think that next furry purchase!

Fur, like many things, has come in and out of our wardrobes with the ongoing cycle of what is on trend. Every turn where it makes it’s comeback, debates rise back up and protests come from those against animal cruelty. Over the many years fur has been used in fashion, more and more animal friendly alternatives were thrust into the fashion lime light. Faux fur, synthetic material with the same look and feel, became the closest, and kindest, way to look on trend and keep your moral compass pointed in the right direction.

Above: Shirt: Desigual, Pants: Christina Yi, Shoes: Topman

Fur, like many things, has come in and out of our wardrobes with the ongoing cycle of what is on trend. Every turn where it makes it’s comeback, debates rise back up and protests come from those against animal cruelty. Over the many years fur has been used in fashion, more and more animal friendly alternatives were thrust into the fashion lime light. Faux fur, synthetic material with the same look and feel, became the closest, and kindest, way to look on trend and keep your moral compass pointed in the right direction.

A Real Furry Problem:

Is Faux Still Safe?

Article by Jade Shaw

With faux fur products now so high in our demand, and real animal fur products still on the shelves, it would’ve appeared that a fashionable understanding had been reached. Higher end fashion houses, or those not opposed, would stock the real deal, and those in the lower end, or those who love animals too much to wear their skin, would stock the faux. It seems simple enough, when you think about it, things were divided and separate, and everyone got some of what they wanted. But a new discovery by The Humane Society of the United States has certainly rocked the boat.

Every season The Humane Society looks into the fashion that is on our rails, but never before has it’s results been so widely published and commented on than

now. Their most recent discovery shows that a lot of fashion houses, and many high street retailers, are stocking products labelled as faux fur, that have then been found to contain real rabbit, raccoon and raccoon dog fur. In the States it is a federal crime to mislabel fur, and many retailers have found themselves in some pretty hot water. Labels that came under serious fire this past year includ-ed Neiman Marcus, Dr. Jays, Eminent, Alice + Olivia, Burberry and Marc Jacobs.

Left: Shirt: Desigual, Pants: Christina Yi.Above: Shirt: H&M, Vest: NINH, Pants: Desigual.

They, surprisingly, we not the only one’s. In December the Humane Society issued a consumer warning message against Kohl’s retail-er, who they found to be advertising one of their handbags, with al-leged faux fur trimming, when in fact, the trimming was rabbit. The Humane Society urged Kohl’s to join their Fur-Free campaign, and more actively monitor the products they were selling. Pierre Grzy-bowski, research and enforcement manager for the campaign stat-ed “We’re calling on Kohl’s to adopt a fur free policy and more ro-bust quality control program, and urging consumers to learn how to tell animal fur from fake fur so they can shop with confidence”.

So, why the sudden deception in our faux fur products? Tradition-ally, cheap animal furs were sold as higher quality, more expen-sive furs, trying to make people spend more on lower quality real fur products when the higher quality fur was much harder to come by. But now, it seems faux fur is being labelled as such, regardless of it’s real animal content, to capture the business of those of us consumers who try to avoid the real product. The Huffington Post in it’s article on the matter declared; “The demand for faux fur has increased as more people aim to shop cruelty-free. As manufac-turers try to meet this demand, products are often mislabelled.”

Additionally,the discovery was made that most of the mislabelled items were found to contain raccoon dog fur. Raccoon dog fur actually costs lest to gain, than manufacturing a synthetic fur. What is worrying is that raccoon dogs are documents to endure extremely inhumane har-vesting practices when it comes to their fur, such as electroshock and being skinned alive, in countries with unregulated, minimal, or no an-imal welfare laws. It would seem manufacturer’s care more about the costs than what the animals go through for them to trim a bag, or coat.

Left: Shirt: NINH, Pants: Christina Yi, Necklace: Zoa Chimerum, Shoes: Aldo

Above: Shirt: H&M, Vest: NINH, Pants: Desigual, Shoes: Topman.

Retailers have been responding to the recent discovery in many ways, The Humane Society issued a statement informing their followers of the retailers and designers who were putting into place new policies to phase out the sale of raccoon dog fur in their products. As raccoon dog is the most widely mislabelled fur product out there, phasing this out will most likely dramatically decrease the misrepresentation in the fur/faux fur area. Other retailers, such as Dr. Jays, attributed the problem to poor garment labelling. The CEO of Dr. Jays, in an email to the New York Times, is reported to have stated that “There were a handful of instances where a word may have been omitted in our product descriptions, and others where the word “fur” was used to describe the style [of product], not intending to describe the content.”

In all, this all means it’s just become a lot harder to determine what is real, and what really is fake, which is the main reason this new controversy has re-ally become a big problem. Short of avoiding any kind of fur products all to-gether, there now seems to be no real way to distinguish what you are real-ly buying when you pick out a new fur jacket for the winter seasons. But, there are ways to tell the difference between real and fake, and the Humane Soci-ety have a Field Guide to Telling Animal Fur from Fake fur on their website, for any of us who aren’t quite ready to kick the fake fur from our lives just yet.

Left: Top: Christina Yi, Bracelet: Zoa ChimerumAbove: Shirt: H&M, Pants: NINH, Scarf: Topman

Crepuscolaria

Crepuscolaria

Photography byMargherita Calatiy,

27 from Italy

Model:Gala Oleynikova

Styling: Olympia de Molossi

Make up & Hair styling: Silvia Galeazzo

“Crepuscolaria” was born as a story about light and darkness. Calati wanted to bring out the amazing Marianna Lanzilli bridal dress, comparing it to other total black outfits. He thought about the twilight, when the dark comes to cover everything, and then the moon and stars’ light rises up just as the white dress.

The model is light herself, and with her ice eyes and golden make up, it made her a first choice model for Calati.

Artist Feature

Paintingsby

Hari Lualhati, 28 from South

Africa

Artist Feature

Title: Never Let Me GoMedium: Oil on CanvasSize: 760mm x 1010mm

Hari Lualhati is an artist, painter, illustrator, graphic artist and designer. She was born in the Philippines and obtained her degree in Fine Arts from the University of the Philippines, Diliman in 2006. Lualhati has worked in Manila, Hong Kong and Shenzhen China, but currently resides in South Africa.

Lualhati has received numerous awards from different international competitions like The Palm Art Award Certificate of Excellence in 2012 in Germany, the Art Takes Miami: 1001 Artist Project in 2012 in Miami, and has been selected for the 1st Biennale of Art of Palermo 2012 in Italy, and part of the shortlist of Ken Bromley Art Supplies Cover Competitions in 2012 for the UK.

Apart from awards and commendations, Lualhati has also been featured in International magazines and Newspapers: The Philippine Star 2004, China Daily 2008, ARTtour International Magazine October 2012 Issue and January 2013 Issue as well as many more.

Title: In the Name of LoveMedium: Oil on CanvasSize: 760mm x 1010mm

Title: Transcending LoveMedium: Oil on CanvasSize: 760mm x 1010mm

“Though I take into consideration the use of different techniques, I value more the feelings that I put into my works.

I paint with my heart. For me, a painting is successful if it can make anyone who would look at it feel the emotion thats it’s suppose to give. It is like delivering a clear message by touching the hearts of the viewers.

Like a blossoming flower, Love can be so alluring yet so fragile. It needs a constant supply of certain elements like sacrifice, care, loyalty, passion, and trust for it to sustain its beauty and for it to grow. This emotive quality is the inspiration for my latest series of works.

My art is heading towards passionate figurative compositions bults up by expressive line strokes and bold brush techniques necessary for certain emotions to show though, Together with this is my rich devotion to details that elevates the artworks aesthetics. The profound visual narrative and the techniques

used aims to reveal the invisible within the visible.” Hari Lualhati

Hats Off to Isabella Blow

A magazine editor, muse of hat designer Philip Treacy, and the woman credited with the discovery of models such as Stella Tennant and So-phie Dahl, as well as designer Alexander McQueen, Isabella Blow is not someone you could say ever lived half a life. In her time, she did more than a lot of people in the industry could dream of. With an exhibition opening on November 20th to mark her exuberant personality, and fabulous career, it seems only right to dedicate a page or two towards

her. (cont...)

Article by Jade Shaw

LOVESICK

PhotographybyJosefien Hoekstra,Models: Lizzy Meow & Danny Van TuijlClothing: Bas KostersAssistant: Marco Edelman

Born Isabella Delves Broughton on 19th November 1958, Isabella was born in Marylebone, London, England, the eldest child of Major Sir Evelyn Delves Broughton and his second wife Helen Mary Shore. Her father was a military officer, whose sister married Simon Frasrer 15th Lord Lovat, and her mother a barrister.

Isabella had two sisters, Julia and Lavina, and a younger brother John, who unfortunately drowned at the age of 2 in the family pool. John had died in her arms, leaving Isabella with what was said to be a dangerous streak, that would stay with her till the end of her days. Her younger years were marred with tragedies, including the separation of her parents when she was 14. Her mother left the household, bidding her daughters goodbye with nothing more than a handshake each. Blow often said her fondest childhood memories were trying on her mother’s pink hat, a memory she credits led to her later career in fashion.

Her relationship with her father, was far from the perfect family picture, the two had never really got on in his life, and with his passing it seemed there would be no final peace between the two. With

her father’s death came to Isabella the loss of her family home, Doddington Hall in Cheshire, which she mourned terribly. On top of that her father, whose estate was worth over one million pounds, left to her £5,000, an amount described by the family as “pitiful”. The rest, he left to Isabella’s stepmother. If it were not so sad an ending for Isabella, one could liken her early years to a fairy tale, and merely expect for her a happy ending.

She went on the study for her A levels at Heathfield School, she then enrolled at secretarial school and took on odd jobs. Talking in 2002 to Tamsin Blanchard of The Observer, Blow said, “I’ve done the most peculiar jobs. I was working in a scone shop for years...I was a cleaner in London for two years....and my cousin saw me in the post office and said, What are you doing? I said, What do you think I look like I’m doing? I’m a cleaner!”

In 1979 Blow left the English world behind, and moved to new York to study Ancient Chinese Art at Columbia University. During her time in the Big City, she shared a flat with actress Catherine Oxenberg, the first of many famous connections she would accrue in her time. A year later, Isabella packed up

and left New York, heading for Texas to work with French designer Guy Laroche. 1981 brought with it a marriage to her first husband, Nicholas Taylor, and her introduction to then fashion director at Vouge US, Anna Wintour. She was hired to be Wintour’s assistant, but it wasn’t long before she began to assist Andre Leon Talley, the now US Vouge editor – at – large. While working at the magazine in New York, Isabella added Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat to her list of celebrity acquaintances.1986 saw the Isabella’s return to London, she worked for Michael Roberts, director of the Tatler and the Sunday Times Stlye. Three years later she married her second husband Detmar Hamilton Blow, and Philip Treacy was called upon to designed her headdress, and here the famous relationship was born! Seeing Treacy’s talent, Isabella put him up in her London flat so he could work on his collections, and she wore his designs as the signature part of her flamboyant style. In her 2002 interview Blow declared she wore large hats to keep people from kissing her, stating she only wanted “..to be kissed by the people I love.” (cont...)

Blow went on to do amazing things with her career, producing the Babes in London shoot with Steven Meisel,discovering Alexander McQueen (she brought his entire graduate collection for £5,000), and launching Sophie Dahl’s modelling career. She became fashion director at the Tatler, starred in The Life Aquatic, was the subject of exhibitions and many other art and fashion projects world over. But though her life seemed perfect to most, behind the scenes a darkness grew in Isabella Blow.

Towards the end, Isabella became seriously depressed, she was reportedly anguished at

her inability to “find a home in a world she influenced”and after Alexander McQueen didn’t take her along to Gucci with him, things seemed to get worse. She split from her husband in 2004, and during there split she was diagnosed with Bipolar disorder, and received electroshock therapy. After 18 months Isabella and Detmar were reconciled, but the world dealt her another hit, and she was diagnosed with ovarian cancer.

With the cancer threat looming over her head, and her waning celebrity status Isabella took a turn for the worst, and from 2006 she began making

multiple attempts on her life. From overdoses, attempted drownings, driving her car into the rear of trucks, and even jumping from the Hammersmith Flyover, which resulted in two broken ankles. On May 6th 2007, Isabella’s attempts came to a head when she drank weed killer at her weekend house party. She was found by her sister, and died in hospital the next day. It was only after her death that her husband confirmed she had been suffering from depression and had once declared to him “I’m fighting depression and I can’t beat it.”

To many looking upon her story, it may be hard

to understand, a woman who seemed to have it all wanting to get out as soon as she could, but depression has never been an easy illness to explain or overcome, and in the end her story is one of woe. But those close to her will always remember, not her sadness, but her vivaciousness and sparkle, her laughter and smiles. We who did not know her are left with her influence, and that is something she had a lot of, and something the industry will hopefully never lose.

A Kind of Absense

Photography byDirk Wilms

47 from GermanyI’m a professional photographer since the 1990s, at that time mainly in portraitshootings and landscapes. Today I spend most of my time doing my artistic work in my small studio, only there I feel safe. To me photography means to breathe life and to express myself.

A Kind of Absense

The first few years after my HIV diagnosis I barely left my house. I was afraid to go out for almost four years. I thought everyone who sees me out there must know immediately that I carry the virus in me. But I did not want to be forgotten. I wanted people to know after my death I was in his world. And so I decided to start documenting my life, my fears and my physical decline in an artistic style. I was able to photograph and staying at home at the same time. The first traces left by this virus were to be seen in my face. Thus the stylistic idea came to cover my face on most of the photos. The entire series is called “A Kind Of Absence”.

Moi, La Fleur

Photography byMartyna Włodarczyk

21 from Poland

Model:Dominika Kachlik

Styling: Martyna Wlodarczyk

Make up: Dominika Kacklik

MOI, LA FLEURphoto: Martyna Włodarczyk ( www.violetmer-maid.digartfolio.pl / www.facebook.com/medusa.photo )model: Dominika Kachlik/Avant Modelsstyle: Martyna Włodarczykmua: Dominika Kachlikspecial thanks to: Czajka Family

In this shooting not only the model is important but the garden as well. It was the Garden I wanted to capture, it’s beauty in the middle of the summer was my inspiration and I have made a woman one of it’s flowers. Once a very delicate, subtle rose, than a strict, scarlet one. A summer story with the strong flower fragrance.

THE UNTOLD#5

THE BUMBPER ISSUE

DEADLINE FOR SUBMISSION 21/04/14

issue 4 - the open issue

Documents

martyna wodarczyk page

alessandra maria page

alice past page

aiesha mumford page

isabella blow page

michela riva serena

fashion photography

work welcome