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SUPPORTED BY ISSUE 65 CLUB ATLÉTICO DE MADRID V FULHAM FC 12 TH MAY 2010, UEFA EUROPA LEAGUE FINAL

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CLUB ATLÉTICO DE MADRID V FULHAM FC12TH MAY 2010, UEFA EUROPA LEAGUE FINAL

AWAY GOALSAWAY GOALSGOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAA

P R O D U C E S AWAY G OA L S

T H E F O O T B A L L

F E D E R A T I O NS U P P O R T E R S’

A nd welcome to Hamburg for the Europa League Final between Fulham FC

and Club Atlético de Madrid. For many of you this won’t be your fi rst experience of the Hanseatic city, and it will be a welcome re-turn after a successful semi-fi nal here only a couple of weeks ago.

So what’s the Fans’ Embassy all about? Well, some of you may already be familiar with the work we’ve been doing around England games, going back to Italia ’90. The Fans’ Embassy is a service run by fans, for fans, provid-ing information, advice and practical assistance to travelling supporters. At England games we produce a fanzine much like this one (the England ver-sion’s called Free Lions), and operate a telephone helpline, website informa-tion, and a team of willing volunteers.

What we’re offering in Hamburg runs on similar lines, except with this Away Goals fanzine, and a team of volun-teers who are themselves Fulham fans.

Inside these pages you’ll fi nd useful advice and information – as up to date as print deadlines would allow us to be – as well as contributions from Fulham fanzine There’s Only One F in Fulham, a view on the opponents, and other nonsense to entertain you.

thanks are due to Kevin Miles, Daniela Wurbs, and Thomas Gassler ; the Fans’ Embassy team David Wilson, Paul Fitzgerald, Arthur and Michael Timbury, Dominic Stormont and Ross Tierney; TOOFIF’s David Lloyd and Jamie Ruszczynski, Emilio Abejon and Moira Boyd from Señales de Humo, Actionimages, and the artistic genii of Kevin Gibson, Andy Wilkin-son, Paul Palmer and Lawrence Canning

This Away Goals fanzine is produced by the Football Supporters’ Federation (FSF), the national membership-based organisation for fans. We have tried to ensure the accuracy of all the informa-tion provided in this fanzine, but can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience suffered by anyone relying on its contents. The FSF is entirely independent, none of the fi nancial

support we have received to produce Away Goals impacts on what we put in it. Consequently none of our supporters can be held in any way respon-sible for the contents of, nor the views expressed in, this fanzine.

This fanzine has been a team effort. It was pro-duced and edited by Garreth Cummins, and huge

Useful numbers:Fans’ Embassy Helpline:+44 7956 12 13 14British Consulate: (Hamburg)+49 40448 03236British Embassy: (Berlin)+49 3020 4570

Emergency numbers

General Emergencies(ambulance/fi re) 112Police: 110

Fulham FC v Club Atlético de MadridHamburg ArenaWednesday 12th May 2010Kick-off 8.45pm

Contact Away GoalsEmail: [email protected]

Gifts & Postcards: Away Goalsc/o The FSFThe Fans’ Stadium422A Kingston RoadKingston-upon-ThamesKT1 3PB

The Fans’ Embassy in Hamburg will operate on the afternoon of Tuesday 11th May and all day on match-day. At the time of going to press we still hadn’t received confi rmation from the German authorities where they would allow us to base ourselves. Our team of volunteers will be covering the ground throughout the city, anyway, so we’ll never be far away.

If you need help with anything, we’re also available via our 24 hour Fans’ Embassy helpline, on +44 7956 12 13 14. Even if we can’t immediately answer your ques-tion ourselves, we aim to be able to get in touch with the people that can.

The Fans’ Embassy service is here to provide support for ALL fans, regard-

WELCOME TO

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Website: www.fsf.org.uk

FSF helpline: +44 7956 121314

fi nalised before the printers need to get to work on churning out several thousand copies of this fanzine.

In the event that there’s anything you need to know that you can’t fi nd answered within these pages, please make use of the telephone helpline. It’s a 24 hour service, although please note that it’s staffed by volunteer foot-ball fans: we don’t mind taking calls in the small hours of the morning to help with genuine urgent problems, but we’d rather leave debates about quiz answers and the like until daylight.

We’re confi dent we’ll be able to answer pretty much any question you might have about arrangements for the day of the game, or assist with virtually any problem you might have while in Germany.

CONTENTS04 Absolute Dreamland06 Germany Music Quiz07 Hamburg Guide - The Stadium 08 Hamburg Guide - Matchday Info 09 Hamburg Guide - Getting to the Ground10 Hamburg Guide - Getting Around 11 Hamburg Guide - Eating And Drinking12 Hamburg Guide - Things To See And Do13 A View on the Opposition14 Atléti’s Road to the Final15 About the FSF16 Away Goals Puzzle Page

The British Consulate in Hamburg is here to help, and can provide assistance in emergencies, sort out replacements for lost passports, and put you in touch with an English-speaking lawyer in the event of arrest.

Please note however that the British Consulate CANNOT get you out of jail or interfere with court proceed-ings, pay your bills, give you money or make travel arrangements for you.

If you need the assistance of the Brit-ish Consulate while in Hamburg for the match, call: +49 40 4480 3236

Some tips from the British Embassy:

Take care of your valuables in busy areas and on public transport – pick-pockets may be operating. Be especially wary around the main railway stations and on the U-Bahn and S-Bahn, and when unloading luggage from buses/coaches or taxis.

Don’t carry valuables around with

you unless you need to – consider putting them in a safety deposit box in your hotel, if available.

You need to carry photo ID at all times, so you are advised to carry a photocopy of the details page of your passport with you at all times and keep the original safe.

THE BRITISH EMBASSY

less of whether or not they have of-fi cially supplied match tickets. We are a completely independent supporters’ organisation, and offer fully confi -dential assistance. No information on any individuals is ever passed on to the police authorities, either British or from the host country.

In this edition of Away Goals, we’ve done our best to address most of the issues that our own experience as fans travelling abroad has taught us you are likely to need to know about.

All the information we’ve given is as accurate as we can make it at the time of going to press, but it’s in the nature of events such as this that sometimes arrangements can be changed at the last minute, or that details aren’t

THE UEFA EUROPA LEAGUE FINAL 2010

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Jamie Ruszczynski, from the excellent fanzine TOOFIF (There’s Only One F In Fulham), looks back on this year’s Euro-pean journey, and the matches that led Fulham to Hamburg:

Somehow, from the moment Fulham scored that early equaliser against Juventus

on the 18th March, it felt as if the game would fi nish 4-1. Something about the emphatic way in which Bobby Zamora muscled World Cup winning cap-tain Fabio Cannavaro off the ball communicated in an instant that it was only a matter of how and when exactly we would score the remaining goals required. The Italian defender’s clumsy sending off for a trip on Gera, after a torrid 20 minutes, served only as further confi rmation of this belief. We had the bit between our teeth, and would take advantage and win. You can rely on this Fulham team.

The goals, when they came, were simply wonderful. Bobby’s brilliant fi rst was followed by one of the moves of the season to make it 2-1: the ball worked wide to Konchesky, who fed Zamora, who deftly fl icked into the path of Davies, who cut the ball back for Gera to hit high into the net. Dempsey’s winner was, of

course, one of the most auda-cious pieces of skill the Cottage has witnessed (reminiscent of Kamara’s overhead kick against Spurs for its sheer ridiculousness and invention of thought – but on a far grander stage).

Even Gera’s crucial penalty, calmly slotted home to level matters, seemed really rather beautiful in the company of all that surrounded it.

The victory was the highlight of Roy Hodgson’s tenure so far, and epitomised all that has been great about this Europa League cam-paign: a situation which demanded adventurous, attacking play rather than the usual safety-fi rst approach to gaining league points; glamorous opposition; and excited, raucous Fulham fans fi lling all four sides of the ground to create an unforget-table atmosphere. To think that this was a competition which some – including (by the sound of some of his comments) Roy Hodgson himself – didn’t want us to be in at the beginning of the season!

League points were a priority and should not be jeopardised, said the naysayers, with one eye on our fi nance sheets. It’s a philoso-phy which somehow forgets that football is a game less about numbers than romance, passion and plain excitement. Drama, after all, is surely what all fans crave over and above an extra zero on the end of their club’s balance sheet – and the European campaign has been full of it.

In the league we’ve gone about our business calmly and professionally, steering clear of relegation with impressive victories over Liverpool and Manchester United along the way. But none of it has equalled the thrill of the Europa League; nor has the team managed to reach the same heights in terms of the football played.

In Wolfsburg, for example, playing the reigning Champions of the Bundesliga, we managed something that eluded us at such venues as Hull, Burnley, Wigan, Bolton and Wolves in the league – an impressive away win. We didn’t go gung-ho by any means, and maintained the Hodgson philosophy of ball retention being the number one priority rather than speed or direction of attack – all of which was pulled off brilliantly.

But when we did have opportunities we were willing to gamble slightly more and push midfi elders forward. Murphy and Davies, for example, both found themselves in the op-posing box and very unlucky not to score – something you’re unlikely to see if you venture to the north of England to watch us play. Europe has seemed to add something extra to our game.

Of course, this display was helped by having a player up front in the form of his life and brimming with confi dence, not least due to his high-class goal which began the game. It’s been a pleasure to watch the evolution of Bobby Zamora

ABSOLUTE DREAMLANDBY JAMIE RUSZCZYNSKI

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Website: www.fsf.org.uk

FSF helpline: +44 7956 121314

this season into an all-round near perfect centre forward – the focal point of everything the rest of the team does well, along with being a potent goal-getter in his own right. He’s done it against the best, too, and in all the big games: scoring against Liverpool and Man Utd in the league, in our FA Cup quarter fi nal against Spurs, and in Europe to take us through against Basel, Shakhtar, Juventus and Wolfsburg. On form alone he is undoubtedly deserving of an England place.

Praise should also go to the fabulous Zoltan Gera, who (lest we forget) had a diffi cult season of his own last time out. This year, in his correct position behind the front man, he has aided and abetted

Bobby’s rise with brilliant intel-ligence and skill whilst scoring a fair few crucial goals himself. And in the semi-fi nal at home to Hamburg, the Hungarian had a big moment to call his own. Simon Davies had already scored a wonderful equaliser to bring us back into the game at 1-1 and crank the noise levels – already unprecedented – up another notch.

Soon afterwards, when a corner missed everyone’s head and ricocheted off Etuhu into the danger area, who else but Gera to control, swivel and shoot with brilliant economy to send the ball into the net and the home crowd into raptures.

It’s not just Zamora or Gera who have surpassed themselves this year

but the whole squad, who have all played their part at various stages. What better evidence of their su-perb endeavour than the fact we’re about to face Atlético Madrid in a major European fi nal.

It’s absolute dreamland for a club like ours – but somehow we don’t seem out of our depth, nor does it feel daunting when you’ve seen what Hodgson’s men can produce. Who knows what will happen. But on the evidence of our campaign so far the answer has to be ‘anything can’...

TOOFIF is produced every 4-6 weeks and costs £3. Subscriptions are available, please email dmltoofi [email protected] for more information.

Taking on (and beating) the likes of Shakhtar Donesk, Juventus and Hamburg just 14 years since we were losing to the likes of Torquay, Hartlepool and Lincoln is indeed a stupen-dous achievement. Our Euro Tour under the magnifi cent stewardship of Roy Hodgson has been as enjoyable as it has been unexpected – our glorious run has seen us knock out one top team after another, overcome a clutch of dodgy decisions, make a miraculous comeback against one of the world’s elite clubs... and circumnavigate an erupting vol-

cano. Had it been a fi lm script, it would have been rejected for being way too fanciful.

The real joy is to have done it with good grace and good football. Full credit goes to Roy Hodgson and his staff for instilling such values, and for improving every single player in the squad along the way. It has been a genuine team effort from fi rst kick to last, and to mention any individual player here would be utterly unfair. Fulham Football Club, London’s oldest club down by the banks of the Thames, has made the

footballing world sit up and take notice. And all for the right reasons. Thank you, Roy – and thank you Mohamed Al Fayed for helping us to fl y the Fulham fl ag so magnifi cently.

Fulham in a European fi nal - yeah, right! It’s all a dream, surely? And if so, please, please don’t wake me up just yet. Un-likely as it sounds, I gather we’re playing Atlético Madrid in the fi nal in Hamburg. If I can just keep snoozing for a little while longer who knows, I might just get on to score that spectacular last-minute winner...

David Lloyd - Editor of There’s Only One F In Fulham

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Question 2: Gabriele Susanne Kerner

“Daddy Cool” was the fi rst UK hit in 1976 for which German-based quartet?

In which city were The Mobiles drowning in the title of their 1982 Top Ten hit?

Power plant is the translation of the name of which German electropop synth band, who had a Number One hit in 1981 with the double A-side “Computer Love/The Model”?

Johann and Sebastian are the forenames of which German com-poser, born in Eisenach in 1685?

“Wind of Change” reached Number Two in 1991 for which German heavy metal band?

Which UK band, who had a Number One hit in 1992 with “Deeply Dippy”, performed at

the opening concert for the 2006 World Cup in Germany?

“I gotta reason, it’s no real reason and I’m waiting at the Berlin Wall” is a line from which Sex Pistols song?

Yvonne Catterfeld is a German singer, actress and TV host, with such memorable hits as “Bum” and “Fuer Dich”, but which British all-girl band, named after an area of London, originally recorded the song “Bum”?

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Answers on page 15

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Which German threesome had a 1982 Number Two hit with the song “Da Da Da”?

Gabriele Susanne Kerner was lead singer of which German band who had a worldwide hit in 1984 with “99 Red Balloons”?

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SCOUSE PHIL’S AWAY GOALS

THE FSF’s resident quiz-mas-ter has got 10 top musical teasers for you, in honour of

our host country. See how many you can get.

Question 10: Yvonne Catterfeld

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GERMANY MUSIC QUIZ

The FSF have joined the great social networking revolution (or at least that’s what those media types have told us to call it) and have gone and set up our own Facebook page.

Come and join the thousands of fans from across the country who are getting FSF news, updates, free competitions and

other nonsense, all while they’re busy updating their status, playing games and ‘poking’ each other (whatever that means). Find us at www.facebook.com/thefsf

But wait, there’s more. Not only are we on Facebook, but you’ll also fi nd us tweeting merrily away on that new-fangled Twit-

ter site, too. If you like getting your fi x of football info in 140 character-sized chunks, then come along and fi nd us there @The_FSF.

Or, if you’re interested in international matters (and who isn’t with the World Cup fast ap-proaching?) try our England feed @FSF_FreeLions.

JOIN THE FSF ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER

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T H E F O O T B A L L

F E D E R A T I O NS U P P O R T E R S’

Website: www.fsf.org.uk

FSF helpline: +44 7956 121314

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HAMBURG GUIDETHE AWAY GOALS GUIDE TO THE GERMAN CITY

Welcome to the Away Goals guide to Hamburg. Over

the following 6 pages we bring you the best and wurst (sorry) that Hamburg has to offer in terms of food and drink, along with our top tips for getting around the city, what’s best to see and do, and some crucial matchday and stadium information.

We hope that you have a safe and enjoyable trip, but should you get into any diffi culties then we’ve got all the details of who you need to get in touch with should the worst happen.

Don’t forget your Fans’ Embassy team will be around to offer some top-notch advice and assistance during the day (and night) on our 24 hour helpline +44 7956 12 13 14

The Hamburg Arena was built at a cost of only 97 million Euros.

Work started in 1998 and the in-augural match, a friendly between Germany and Greece, took place on 2nd September 2000. The stadium played host to three group games and a quarter fi nal match in the recent World Cup, and as we’re sure you’re aware, is home to Hamburg SV.

The stadium is set within a park some distance outside the city, so there are hardly any bars near the ground and nothing really around the nearest station either. It is, therefore, not really an option to go up to the ground early for a drink unless you are prepared to limit yourself to the facilities on the concourse or a few of the stalls

around the ground. Because this is a UEFA match, there will be no alcohol served inside the ground. There are refreshment kiosks inside the stadium, however, selling food and soft drinks.

We anticipate that for the fi nal there will be more on offer than usual around the ground, but until we have precise details we’d still advise fans to stay in the city if they want some options on their food and drink and entertainment.

THE STADIUM

We don’t know if you believe in fate, but Danny Murphy has a successful record in the UEFA Cup. He has a winner’s medal already, which he won against a Spanish team, from a fi nal in Germany. Spooky.

Mark Schwarzer, however, let four goals past him when he last reached a UEFA Cup fi nal, and it was a Spanish side that did the damage on that occasion. Fate, eh?

UEFA EUROPA LEAGUE FACTS

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League - not that we expect you to be carrying weapons, glass bottles, fi reworks or massive cameras in with you. Personal cameras are fi ne, but you are not allowed to record the whole match (UEFA are concerned about their highlights packages, obviously).

Every year there are rumours of stewards checking ID against names on tickets, and we’ve been hearing these at international games and major fi nals for donkeys years. We’re yet to see at England matches, UEFA Cup or UEFA Champions League fi nals anything even resembling ID checks at the gates. It is a measure announced

Fulham FC have been allocated around 12,500 tickets in the South Stand

(Süd Tribüne). These are broadly all in blocks 9-16 (with subsec-tions A-C within each block). If you have a ticket that is wildly different in number to this, you will not be sat with the main contingent of Fulham FC fans.

Club Atlético de Madrid fans are at the opposite end of the stadium, and tickets for their blocks have numbers in the 20s. Be wary if you are trying to pick up something off a tout, and it’s in one of these sections – it might not be the ticket to the best night of your life.

The stadium itself will be open from 1830 on matchday. There will likely be an initial ticket cordon operating some distance away from the ground – this is a primary check to make sure that fans have valid tickets, and to ensure that ticketless fans can not get as far as the turnstiles. Fans and their bags will also be searched going through this cordon. Because of this, there will inevitably be delays in getting in to the ground as potential ‘bottlenecks’ develop, so please allow some extra time to get into the ground in time for kick-off.

The usual list of prohibited articles applies for this fi xture, as with previous games in the UEFA Europa

MATCHDAY INFO

HAMBURG GUIDETHE AWAY GOALS GUIDE TO THE GERMAN CITY

to reduce the pervasive nature of touting, but we’d be frankly amazed if this was introduced on a wide-scale for any match - the logistics of checking 50,000 names and IDs would require the stadium to open long before 1830.

Unlike other ‘normal’ European games, fans will not be held back after the fi nal whistle as there are no ‘home’ or ‘away’ supporters – the winning team usually stay in the ground for some while celebrating while the defeated team’s fans slope off quietly into the city, so we expect no problems outside the ground, apart from the inevitable traffi c jams and queues for the S-Bahn.

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Website: www.fsf.org.uk

FSF helpline: +44 7956 121314

At the time of going to press we were not aware of any free

buses/coaches being laid on for supporters to get to the ground from the city centre (unless organised through private tour operators), how-ever possession of a match ticket entitles the holder to free travel on public transport throughout the day of the fi nal, so at least you won’t have to cough up a fare to get to the game.

Fulham FC fans heading to the stadium are advised to head to Othmarschen station, which is on S-Bahn lines S1 and S11. Both lines run through a lot of the major places you’re likely to find yourself on matchday such as the Reeperbahn, Landungs-brücken and Rathaus in the south of the city. Jump on a train on either of these lines which will

be heading in the direction of Wedel or Blankenese respectively.

If you are in the north of the city then you will need to take the S-Bahn lines S3 or S31 to Altona where you can change for the S1 and S11.

The stadium is around a fifteen minute walk due north from Othmarschen, but there will also be regular shuttle buses that will run between the station and the ground on matchday. If you leave it late to get to the ground, how-ever, the walk through the park may well be the quicker option.

You will need to allow around 30 minutes or so for the journey to the stadium from the city centre, obviously depending on where exactly you set off from.

A taxi will set you back around €20 from the city centre, although

EXCLUSION AREA

If you are staying in Ham-burg, beware that on 13th May there is an exclusion

zone in effect around the Reeperbahn where it will be an offence to carry any weap-on, or to sell or drink from any glass drink container. This is something that we expect to be seriously policed, as the exclusion area is in effect in the city every weekend, as well as on public holidays.

So be aware that the area between the Reeperbahn’s S-Bahn station to the west and the St Pauli U-Bahn station to the east (as well as the side-roads and squares both to the north and south of the Reeperbahn between the two) are off limits for any pint glasses or bottles of beer.

Glass containers will be confi s-cated, and breaches of the ban can result in serious fi nes of up to €5,000.

GETTING TO THE GROUND be wary of the traffi c in the lead up to kick-off, and don’t leave your departure too late.

The S-Bahn will run well into the night meaning that even in the event of extra time and the dreaded penalties there should be plenty of time to watch the trophy presentations and get back into town.

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T H E F O O T B A L L

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As you’d expect with a German city, there’s an extensive and effi cient

public transport system to get you round Hamburg. All serv-ices are under the name of HVV (Hamburger Verkehrsverbund, for those who wish to know), and an HVV ticket is valid on all trains, buses, and harbour ferries.

Firstly, an important reminder - if you are in possession of a match ticket then public transport is free all-day on matchday (May 12th) until 0600 on May 13th.

There are numerous S-Bahn and U-Bahn lines (trams and underground) as well as regional train lines that connect the city and the suburbs. These all run until about 12.30am on weekdays, at which point night buses take over with the central departure point being the Rathaus-markt in the town centre. At weekends the S-Bahn and U-Bahn run well into the night.

The prices for single tickets begin from €1.30 depending on which zones you are travelling to/from. If, however, you’ll be using public transport for more than one journey, you’re almost certainly better off getting a day pass.

A range of day and period passes are available from €5.40, depending on which zones you wish to travel in and how many people you want the pass to cover. Unless your hotel is really miles out in the sticks, you’ll

not need more than a Zone 1-2 ticket, also known as Großbe-reich, or the Greater Hamburg area. Zone 1 includes all the city centre, and out as far as the airport and the stadium, too.

A ‘9am Day Ticket’ allows you to travel all day after 9am on the day of purchase, until 0600 the follow-ing day. These are cheaper than full day tickets because they are designed to alleviate the pressure on the transport system during the morning rush hour. A 9am Ticket costs €5.40, but if you’re up and about early doors, a full day ticket will set you back €6.30. A 9am day ticket covers one adult and up to 3 children under the age of 14. All children under 6 travel for free on all HVV services.

If there’s more than one person travelling, it makes sense to get a group ticket. These cover up to 5 people travelling (all day), and a

Zone 1-2 9am group ticket will set you back €9.20.

There are no ticket barriers at sta-tions, so the system works by trusting that you have a ticket. Spot checks are made for tickets, though, and if you’re caught without a valid ticket by an inspector you’ll fi nd that the fi nes are pretty high (€40), and they will take your passport/ID details. We’d expect the inspectors to be out in force with so many fans in the city, so travel without a ticket at your own risk.

Taxis are readily available in the city centre and cost is similar to that in England, although their rates do not change at night. The starting fare is €2.60, with per km rates starting from €1.80 per km for the fi rst 4km. A journey to/from the airport should cost no more than around €25, and most journeys within the city no more than about €10-€12, and sometimes a lot less.

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HAMBURG GUIDETHE AWAY GOALS GUIDE TO THE GERMAN CITY

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T H E F O O T B A L L

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Website: www.fsf.org.uk

FSF helpline: +44 7956 121314

The Reeperbahn will no doubt be where most fans choose to drink, as it is the

party centre of Hamburg.

Thomas Reeds is a large Irish bar, which is bound to prove popular and will have screens showing the match if you don’t have a ticket. There may be a small entrance fee but this is not uncommon on the Reeperbahn. Whilst the area is well policed, make sure you check drink prices before you go into a bar. They should always be well displayed. You may fi nd that a cheap entry price is followed by an enormous bar bill and sometimes there is a mandatory minimum drink purchase, which, as you can probably guess, will not be on the cheap side. All we’ll say is that whilst the Reeperbahn is the offi cial red light area and well policed, you need to take the usual precautions associated with any such area!

Just off the Reeperbahn is a small square called Hans Albers Platz where you will fi nd the London Pub next door to Molly Malone’s and whilst the titles are more commercial than authentic, location suggests these too are likely to be popular. There is another Irish pub, The Sham-

rock which, whilst relatively small, has a good atmosphere, and it’s just a short walk from Feldstrasse station. This bar is also only about a ten minute walk from the Reeperbahn.

On the way you will pass the Jolly Roger pub which is home to many of the St Pauli fans known for their peaceful but passionate support of St Pauli, left wing politics and anti-racism – like-minded fans are likely to get a warm welcome here.

The Schanzenviertel, (Stern-schanze S-Bahn or Feldstrasse U-Bahn) is well known as Hamburg’s alternative and student district. Get off at the U-Bahn station Feldtraße and head along Schulterblatt, and you will fi nd countless small but inviting bars and restaurants with international cuisine. If the weather is fi ne, a wander along the café mile and promenade opposite the Rote Flora, probably Europe’s most famous and active squat, is defi nitely worth a try.

A favourite bar in the city centre is Finnegan’s Wake just 2 - 3 minutes walk from the Rathaus. This bar is long and narrow, with a big screen and a couple of other TVs in the back room and behind the bar. The pub shows Sky Sports and has a reasonably priced menu serving up large portions, including one or two vegetarian op-tions such as beans on toast!

The Altbierhaus on Valentin-skamp near Gansemarkt U-Bahn stop offers reasonably priced food including steak, baked potatoes and

daily specials. A good mix of music is played which gets louder as the night goes on and the bar certainly seems popular with the younger crowd. There is also an American theme music bar close by.

The Gross Neumarkt offers a col-lection of half a dozen bars and res-taurants amongst them a fairly large sports bar with several pool tables and television screens. Near to this is a very small very traditional Irish bar – The Irish Rover.

If you fancy a snack at lunchtime the food court in the Europa Passage shopping mall near the Rathaus has loads of choice includ-ing Chinese, pasta, salads, sand-wiches and of course sausages at very reasonable prices. Alternatively, near the docks (Landungsbrucke) you will fi nd Portuguese bars and plenty of snack bars offering fresh fi sh. Around the Reeperbahn and St Pauli in general there are plenty of take-aways and restaurants, in-cluding kebab shops. Prices for food and drink are roughly comparable to England.

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EATING AND DRINKING

With the exception of a 3-2 aggregate win over Galatasaray in the round of 32, all of Club Atletico de Madrid’s victories in the Europa League have come on away goals. They’ve only won 2 of the 8 matches they’ve played in the competition, drawing 5 and losing 1.

UEFA EUROPA LEAGUE FACTS

AWAY GOALSAWAY GOALSGOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAA

P R O D U C E S AWAY G OA L S

T H E F O O T B A L L

F E D E R A T I O NS U P P O R T E R S’

There are several museums and buildings worth seeing in the city including the

Rathaus (Town Hall) which is well worth a look – it’s free entry, and there’s some spectacular architecture on show, so what have you got to lose?

St Michaelis’ Church (or Der Michel as it is known) is 132m high and there are over 400 steps to the top, so you’ll need to be fi t to enjoy one of the best views of the city. Expect to pay around €5 for the privilege of getting out of breath.

Hamburg Dungeon on Kehrw-ieder in the south of the city allows you to relive some of the scarier and less pleasant moments from Hamburg’s history; much like the London Dungeon back home. While you’re there, Miniatur Wonder-land, the largest miniature railroad and model city in Europe, is only a couple of doors down the road, and might be worth a look. The Sealife Centre on Kurpromenade, the Zoo on Lokstedter Grenzstrasse and the Planetarium on Hinden-burgstrasse might also appeal if

you’re looking for something to while away the day.

For the more active, there are numer-ous places along the banks of the Outer Alster Lake to the north of the city where rowing boats, pedaloes, ca-noes and sailing boats are for hire. The Tourist Offi ces have a complete list of outlets but Bootshaus Silwar rent out canoes, kayak, pedaloes and rowing boats, and Bodo’s Bootssteg on the left Alster bank rent out pedaloes, rowing and sailing boats.

For the less active, there are a variety of decent shops worth look-ing round including on Monck-ebergstrasse which runs between Rathaus and the main station, which is full of department stores. It includes Sports Karstadt, one of Europe’s largest sports stores which has an ice rink on the roof. Spital-erstrasse is a pedestrian area near the main station which offers many familiar high street names, there’s Neuer Wall, home of many shops selling famous labels and names. Don’t forget Europa Passage, not far from the Rathaus, which is a new and shiny shopping mall.

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HAMBURG GUIDETHE AWAY GOALS GUIDE TO THE GERMAN CITY

If perhaps you’re staying longer than just the day of the fi nal and want to fi nd

out what’s best to do in the city, you can visit the tourist in-formation points in the city at:

Hauptbahnhof (main railway station) at the Kirchenallee exit. Open 0800-2100 Mon-Sat, 1000-1800 Sun.

St Pauli Harbour – between bridges 4 and 5 at the harbour (nearest S-Bahn is Landungsbrück-en). Open 0800-1800 daily.

Or if you have internet access in your hotel, visit www.hamburg-tourism.de

TOURIST INFORMATION

The city has a number of parks including the Planten und Bloomen, a large park in the city centre, whose nearest station is Dammtor. This is a must if you’re with the kids, having a playground with sand dunes, slides and jungle gyms at the Petersburger Strasse entrance, as well as a water playground at the Glacischaussee entrance. Come to think of it, that would probably appeal to a fair few adults we know, too. There are also special shows for the little ones with magicians, puppets and clowns. The skating rink and the shows for kids are near the Holstenwall entrance. There is also a mini-golf course and trampolines.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

AWAY GOALSAWAY GOALSGOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAA

P R O D U C E S AWAY G OA L S

T H E F O O T B A L L

F E D E R A T I O NS U P P O R T E R S’

Website: www.fsf.org.uk

FSF helpline: +44 7956 121314

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Who better to introduce you to Atlético than one of their own sup-

porters? Emilio Abejon, from supporters group Señales de Humo, gives us an introduction to Club Atlético de Madrid.

Atlético Madrid was founded in 1903 by some Basque students based in Madrid. Originally af-filiated to Athletic Club Bilbao, Atlético soon became one of the city’s favourite teams. After the Spanish civil war it became attached to the Air Force and was renamed accordingly as Atlético Aviación. It was in the 1940’s when Atlético first became dominant in Spain, winning three league titles.

The 1950’s and 1960’s contributed to Atlético’s glory by adding three more leagues, three Spanish Cups and their fi rst (and only) European trophy, the Cup Winners Cup of

1962. The 1970’s is by far the most glorious decade of all for Atlético, with three more Spanish leagues, two cups and one Intercontinental Cup for which they qualifi ed after losing the European Cup fi nal in 1974 and champions Bayern Munich declined to participate.After the celebrated 1970’s, Atlético started a slow decline which was aggravated after Jesus Gil became president in 1987 and owner in 1992 (by committing a fraud recognized by the Spanish courts, but not yet repaired).

Despite its obvious decline, the team, superbly managed by Raddy Antic, was able to achieve its fi rst and only double in 1996. But it was just a spark of success before we were relegated to the Spanish second division in 2000, where we stayed for two seasons.

For the last decade the club, now owned by Miguel Ángel Gil (Jesus’

son) and Enrique Cerezo (Jesus’ long time partner), has been strug-gling in La Liga despite having one of the biggest budgets of all the participants, and having produced probably the best striker of recent times, Fernando Torres, who was sold to Liverpool against the will of the supporters.

This season we began with very poor performances both in the league and in the Champions League, where our European campaign started, but our success in Europa League matches, leading to the fi nal, kick started our poor season and gave us enough power to avoid relegation in the league.

Our best players are Argentinean international Sergio ‘Kun’ Agüero (father to Maradona’s only grand-child) and Diego Forlán, Europe’s top striker last season. Other important players are Portuguese international Simao and former gunner Jose Antonio Reyes.

Atlético’s devoted following, known as the ‘colchoneros’ (‘mat-tress makers,’ because of its red and white stripes being the most common colours of mattresses in the early 20th century in Spain) or the ‘indios’ (‘indians’ because of having signed several South American players in the 1970’s) have a quasi-religious relationship with its team. This is an uncom-mon feature in Spain, a country where most fans support either Real Madrid or Barcelona besides their local club.

BY EMILIO ABEJONA VIEW ON THE OPPOSITION

Some of the peculiarities of Atlético would surprise the average English supporter:

Atlético is the only club to have won the Intercontinental Cup without ever winning the European Cup or the Copa Libertadores

Atlético is the only club in the world whose CEO, Miguel Ángel Gil, has been convicted of fraud against his own club

During Gil’s era, Atlético has had 33 different coaches twice as many as Liverpool FC or Manchester United in their entire history

Atlético almost doubled the fi gure of season ticket holders when it was relegated to Spain’s second division in 2000

AWAY GOALSAWAY GOALSGOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAA

P R O D U C E S AWAY G OA L S

T H E F O O T B A L L

F E D E R A T I O NS U P P O R T E R S’

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THE ROUTE TO THE FINAL

While Fulham FC’s famous victories over Basel, Juventus, and

Hamburg (among others) will live long in the memory, it’s not been quite such a memora-ble route to the fi nal for their opponents, Club Atlético de Madrid. We take a look back at how their season has shaped up, and how they ended up in the Europa League fi nal. Having qualifi ed for the Cham-pions League at the beginning of the season, the group stage campaign was something of a disaster. They failed to win a single one of their six matches in Group D, collecting only 3 points and scoring only 3 goals along the way. Their coach, Abel Resino, ultimately fell victim to his side’s poor start to the season. Resino was sacked after their particularly lacklustre 4-0 defeat at Stamford Bridge, leaving the Spaniards in danger of fi nishing bottom of the Group and being dumped out of Europe completely.

Atlético could only muster two draws against Cypriot side APOEL, failing to even score

in the home game. This meant their 1-1 away draw with the Group D minnows ultimately saw them finish in 3rd place on head-to-head results, despite APOEL finishing the group with a superior goal difference. This saw them qualify for the Europa League as the worst of the sides parachuting in from the Champi-ons League group stages.

Hopes could not have been high at the Vicente Calderon when they were drawn against Galatasaray in the Round of 32, and, surprise surprise, they failed to win the first leg at home to the Turkish side. A 90th minute Diego Forlán strike at the Ali Sami Yen stadium, however, gave them a shock 2-1 victory in the away leg (their first win in Europe since defeating Panathinaikos in qualifying for the Champions League back in August) to send them through to the next round as 3-2 aggregate winners.

In the last 16, they resumed their struggling ways, mustering only a 0-0 draw at home to Sporting Lis-bon. A 2-2 draw at the Estádio José Alvalade, courtesy of two fi rst-half goals from Sergio Agüero, however, saw them progress on away goals after fi nishing 2-2 on aggregate.

This was to become something of a theme for them for the rest of the competition.

In the quarter fi nals, a 2-2 draw away at Valencia in the fi rst leg was

followed up with yet another 0-0 draw at home, and suddenly a side who had won only one game in Europe all season had reached the semi-fi nal of the Europa League.

Once again, it would be a 2-2 away goal aggregate victory that saw them progress. This time, however, Atlético held a 1-0 lead over Liverpool from the fi rst leg at the Vicente Calderon after an early Diego Forlán goal. The second leg went into extra time once Aqui-lani’s goal had squared the tie at 1-1, and after Benayoun had made it 2-0 on the night, a seemingly unlikely goal from the Uruguayan Diego Forlán in front of the Kop dumped Liverpool out, and sent them on the way Hamburg.

It would require 4 goals in the fi nal from either Bobby Zamora or Zoltan Gera to fi nish as the competition’s top scorer outright. The leaders are currently Werder Bremen’s Claudio Pizarro and Benfi ca’s Oscar Cardozo, who have scored 9 goals apiece.

A total of 192 clubs have competed in this year’s Europa League, and Fulham FC’s 19 matches in this year’s compe-tition is only one short of the record of 20, set by Girondins de Bordeaux in 1995/96’s UEFA Cup.

UEFA EUROPA LEAGUE FACTS

AWAY GOALSAWAY GOALSGOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAA

P R O D U C E S AWAY G OA L S

T H E F O O T B A L L

F E D E R A T I O NS U P P O R T E R S’

Website: www.fsf.org.uk

FSF helpline: +44 7956 121314

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ABOUT THE FSFALL YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW AND MORE

The Football Supporters’ Federation (FSF) is the national supporters’ organisation for all football fans representing over 180,000 individu-als and members of local supporters’ organisations from every club in the professional structure, and many from down the pyramid. We provide services to and stand up for you, the match-going supporter.

If you’re getting a raw deal at home or following your team abroad, then the FSF is there for you, providing advice and assistance. We want to know about and help sort out any problems when they occur. More importantly, we work consistently behind the scenes with the football

authorities, police and central and local government to try and prevent problems before they happen.

The FSF campaigns on a number of issues, such as safe standing, ticket prices and making sure supporters get a long overdue voice at football’s top tables. But we’re not just about problems and gripes either. We celebrate all that being a football fan means to the game’s most pas-sionate supporters. The FSF is your best football mate. We stand up for supporters. We care about what you care about.

It’s free to join the FSF – ask one of the Fans’ Embassy team for more info.

THE FOOTBALL SUPPORTERS’ FEDERATION

The Football Supporters’ Federation is campaigning for better treatment of English football supporters travelling abroad with their team. All too often we experience treatment that is unfair, discriminatory and sometimes downright brutal. We’re pressing the case for better policing internation-ally, and you can help. We need documentary evidence of where it

goes wrong – and indeed examples of where it’d been handled well. We’re collating a dossier of fans’ experiences abroad, so next time you’re on a trip following your team in Europe, fi nd a few minutes when you get back to let us know what was good and bad about the way you were treated. Email us via the website at www.fsf.org.uk.

FEEDBACK REQUIRED

Being a representative and demo-cratic organisation, the Football Supporters’ Federation holds an annual conference, known as the Fans’ Parliament, to discuss all the issues affecting football fans, and hopefully to come up with a few solutions and ideas of how to cam-paign to get them implemented.

This year, it’s being held in your neck of the woods – that’s right, it’s in London, and not only that, it’s at Wembley Stadium too, and all football fans are welcome. It’s not all serious chat and putting the world to rights, though, there’s always a healthy social side to the weekend’s activities, too. Come join us for a natter and a pint.

For more details, see the website at www.fsf.org.uk, or join us on Fa-cebook at www.facebook.com/thefsf, to keep yourself informed, and get yourself along.

COME TO THE FSF’S FANS’ PARLIAMENT

July 23rd to 25thLondon

10.Blackburn Rovers at Ewood Park since 1890

Music Quiz1.Trio 2.Nena 3.Boney M 4.Berlin (“Drowning in Berlin”) 5.Kraftwerk 6.Bach 7.Scorpions 8.Right Said Fred 9.“Holidays in the Sun” 10.All Saints

Football Quiz1.Crystal Palace 2.An electronic tag 3.Howard Wilkinson (Leeds United in 1992) 4.Stockport County 5.2Norwich City’s Carrow Road 6.QPR 7.Neil Warnock 8.Bobby Charlton 9.Pen, notebook, whistle, spare whistle, watch, spare watch, red card, yellow card, coin for toss-up and the match ball

Quiz

Answers

CLUB ATLÉTICO DE MADRID SQUAD WORDSEARCH

We thought we’d introduce you to some of the players that you’re likely to be coming up against this evening, but they’re a tricky bunch, these Spaniards, and their names are all hidden in our wordsearch grid. Your job is to find them, and hope they’re easier to find for

the your defence tonight. Names can be read forwards, backwards, up, down and diagonally, and the same letters can be used more than once.

Scouse Phil’s Away Goals Football Quiz (answers on page 15)

1 Sergio ASENJO 2 Juan VALERA 3 Antonio LÓPEZ 4 Mariano PERNÍA 5 TIAGO Mendes 6 Ignacio CAMACHO 7 Diego FORLÁN 8 Raúl GARCÍA 9 José Manuel JURADO 10 Sergio AGÜERO12 Paulo ASSUNÇÃO13 David DE GEA14 Eduardo SALVIO16 JUANITO 17 Tomáš UJFALUŠI18 Álvaro DOMÍNGUEZ 19 José Antonio REYES20 SIMÃO Sabrosa 21 Luis PEREA 22 Pablo IBÁÑEZ 24 Leandro CABRERA58 Ibrahima BALDÉ

P E R A P M L A R E L A V D FL T N J E Z P L O P E Z C Z AD I A D R J T O E E C R A N SO A L E N A B R E R A U M B SM G J G I T E U R N Z Y A A UI O T E A A S J Z I D R C L NN U N A L R O F S A G N H D CG A R M N J E A L Y A D O E AU Z P Z N A J L E D R C O N OE E J E B G L U T A C T D R MZ N S P O U V S R E I S A S DR A S A W E B I G N A J R E RF B M S E R E X A E E M U Y WU I K M Y O S U Z J U T J E OS A L V I O J W C A B R E R A

Which London club has had more home grounds than any other, with 12?Which manager in the Championship is sometimes taunted with shouts of ‘Colin’ by away fans, as his name is an anagram of Colin Wanker?Which player, with 27, scored the most goals at the old Wembley Stadium? What are the ten things a referee must carry on to the pitch with them before refereeing a game?Which Premier League club have been playing at their current ground for the longest time?

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6The name of which English football club begins with 5 consonants?Gary Croft of Ipswich Town became the fi rst professional player to play with what?Who was the last Englishman to managed a championship-winning team in the top fl ight of English football?Which league club’s ground is closest to the Mersey?Most people know that Oldham’s Boundary Park is the league ground in the country that is highest above sea level, but which is the lowest?

Our resident quiz-master, Scouse Phil, has set you a few football-related questions get your brains working, and to give you something to do in between pints. See how many you can get.