IS ART

SWEATISSUE±9

FASHION

Dior has no head designer, but let us not dwell, it’s been a great season none the less. We’ve put together a trend report, a selection of the best shows & got a new perspective on what was a

surprising year for menswear. As the sun starts to come out & we can finally put on whatever fruit

print we’ve managed to find, here is the defini-tive FASHION ONLY issue of SWEAT to guide you through what you’ll need for next winter, before

everyone else gets it first.

COVERby Jesus Rogers

FASHION FORECASTby Nicole Holm

SHOWS YOU’VE HEARD OF & THOSE

YOU MIGHT NOT HAVEby Jess Bunyan

OPINIONATED MENSWEAR

by Rob Jones

Fashion ForecastBy Nicole Holm

With the F/W 2011 Season shows under wraps,we take a brief look at what are likely to be the top

trends this fall.

1. Red HuesEvery shade of red was seen on the runwaysthis season. From the ruby reds at Rodarte

to the deep crimson shades at ProenzaSchouler, red isn’t only going to be on lips

this fall.

L-R: Jil Sander, Betty Jackson, Elie Tahari, Vera Wang, Marc Jacobs, Victoria Beckham, Oscar de la Renta

2. Oversized CoatsWith Spring fast approaching the last thing

we want to do is think about winter coats, butthe presence of oversized coats at the F/W2011 shows has been hard to ignore. From

the duster coats at Rodarte to the heavyponchos at Alexander Wang, the winter

coat is back and bigger than ever.Clockwise from top: Hermes, Rochas

Miu Miu, Jil Sander

3. Lite-BrightPractically every collection this fall featured bright colors, so expect

this to be a major trend in trousers and footwear alike.

From deep, rich blues to candy-colored oranges

and reds seen, like seen at Burberry Prorsum, it seems

like any color goes this season.L-R: Hermes, Isaac Mizrahi, Peter Som

4. Long SkirtsThis fall we noticed the hems of dresses and skirts getting

longer to make a more conservative look that is both chic and sophisticated, like the floor length skirts seen at Carolina Herrera.

Top L-R: Manish Arora, Veronique Leroy, Roksanda Ilincic, Roland Mouret, J.W Anderson. Bottom L-R: Just Cavalli,Collette Dinnigan, Holly Fulton,

Tsumori Chisato, Antonio Marras

5. Graphic PrintsCool graphic prints in bright colors and shiny metallics were

literally everywhere, from the Native American prints at Proenza Schouler to the bold floral prints at Miu Miu.

Top L-R: Jil Sander, Lanvin, Kenzo, Giambattista Valli, Miu Miu, VersaceBottom L-R: Marni, Akris, Emilio Pucci, Vivienne Westwood, Manish Arora,

Stella McCartney

BEST SHOWYOU’VE HEARD OF:

RodarteThis show was an absolute beaut. Inspired by the Terrence

Malick film Days of Heaven there were floor sweeping gowns aplenty. Made of silk in the palest of colours, not quite white, with hand stitched embroidery. In fact the hand touch was what made

the pieces so incredible, the quilting, hand appliqued and the mohair jumpers hand knitted. There’s something reminiscent

about it as well as pushing forward, with the new longer hemlines and minimalist colour palet.

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BEST SHOWYOU HAVEN’T:Rebecca Taylor

Taylor was so believing in her ability to make something new and relevent that she didn’t even shy away from using fabric

appropriated from her own past collections. The floral dresses and constant embellishment was well balanced with intrigueing

silhouetes and sophisticated feminine colours. There’s something whimsical, yet very New York about Taylor’s collections and she

deserves much more credit for her easy going brand of high fashion that she’s getting at the moment.

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BEST SHOWYOU’VE HEARD OF:

Paul SmithPreppy turned up to full volume, and no one does it better. The

colours and the just-thrown-together feel of it all made for a nice twist on the Patti Smith androgony of his inspiration. Of course, it

was a lot more polished than the one and only herself, but otherwise it wouldn’t have been Paul Smith. New York sometimes

borders on boring, but here I think it’s the subtelty, the detail in the tailoring, that makes the looks really stand out. Time to start

digging around your boyfriend/brothers suits.

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BEST SHOWYOU HAVEN’T:

Charles AnastaseSuddenly over the last two seasons, Charlas Anastase has all but overtaken Hussein Chalayan as my favorite designer. With

his Spring/Summer collection fresh in my mind, I was weary of possible disappointment from the new season, but my fears

were worthless. From the very first look, to the endless coats that followed, my heart was set. The red ponyskin emsemble was a

personal highlight, as was the silk frilly all-in-one that coinsidently seemed like it belonged in Spring.

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BEST SHOWYOU’VE HEARD OF:

Marni/Jil Sander/PradaMilan is so big house heavy that it was hard to choose one out of these three. The patterns at Marni, the silhouettes at Jil Sander and the overtop sequinned dresses at Prada all mixed to make possibly one of my favorite Milan seasons. I sometimes feel a

little overdosed by the kitsch that comes with Italy’s fashion week but here in the midst of the controversy overtaking the clothes,

some subtlety was allowed to filter through and I think Milan was all the better for it.

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BEST SHOWYOU HAVEN’T:

SportmaxCreative lovechild of Maxmara, Sportmax is where the designers get to let their imaginations run wilder. Looking over to Prada it’s easy to suggest that trends are still never far from their minds,

but the ability to mix a red polo neck with a maxi gold and silver sequinned maxi dress and make it not look over the top takes

quite some skill. It was lovely colours galore, from the black and blue of the first half to the rich oranges, red and burgandy’s of the

second. It was a masterclass.

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BEST SHOWYOU’VE HEARD OF:

GivenchyEverything Ricardo Tisci touches appears to be turning to gold at the moment. His last couture collections have simply stolen the whole seasons (minus the last McQueen) and here he was once again allowed to play a little bit more. Amidst the rumours

of him being first in line to Mr. Galliano’s throne, Tisci’s collection showed nothing if not a designer who is very at home in his current position. From the oversized, pin-up and puma logo,

jumpers to the sheer skirts. It was simply perfect.

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BEST SHOWYOU HAVEN’T:

CarvenAt just two years old, Guillaume Henry’s line Carven has certainly

gained some steller momentum. Dressing a girl who would appear most at home reading The Second Sex behind the

counter in an art bookshop, simplicity and reserve meets avant garde detailing and kook head on. In a collection that had both lace detaling framing breasts and a simple knit over little black dress, there’s something for everyone but with little twists and

something that delights with ease.

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OPINIONATEDSince the redefining moment of Hedi Slimane at Dior

Homme, mens fashion seems to have been trying too hard to prove it’s credentials beyond skinny jeans. With last years mens day it would appear that menswear is becoming more valued, but what about the man on the street? Does he care

about the perfect jumpers at Jonathan Saunders? Enter: Rob.

BAND OF OUTSIDERS

They Say: “land of stoner pricesses and hippie communes”

Rob Says: “beanie (90s)”

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

They Say: “for people who are incredibly fussy about the look of their clothes”

Rob Says: “Shorditch”

MENSWEARDKNY

They Say: “lots to love here”

Rob Says: “River Island”

DUCKIE BROWN

They Say: “like-me-if-you-dare quality”

Rob Says: “90s”

EMILIO PUCCI

They say: “emphasize the rustic, raw part of the story”

Rob says: “Unwanted present”

JEREMY SCOTT

They say: “joyfully vulgar”

Rob says: “italian tourist”

JONATHAN SAUNDERS

They say: “his aesthetic

effortlessly jumps genders”

Rob says: “I could wear it (if I was skinny & wore anything other than

black & navy)”

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

They say: “a regular disco

inferno”

Rob says:“pleat/sainsburys”

MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF

They say: “uniforms and uniformity”Rob says: “dad sandals”

ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO

They say: “a sort of English countryside feel”Rob says: “Next (I have run out of steam mostly stuck thinking how boney all their faces are, maybe they look better in photo

shoots)”

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