italy 2010 journal

8/9/2019 Italy 2010 Journal

1/8

Italy 2010Three Weeks With the Ol Rat

Thursday April 15 Flying out2:45pm

Our first flight to Philadelphia was short enough thanks to the getting-into-travel-mode conversation and that we had a whole row to ourselves, leaving

us a seat in between for the macbook and our things. Dads iphone is now

chockfull of music that he may or may not love. But music is beneficial in

any area and Im sure hell enjoy some of it. I know he was digging on

Johnny Cashs Get Rhythm already. :) We arrived at PHL to a bit of

chaos. My bag was checked at the gate in Jacksonville because we were the

last to board. A combination of each of us thinking the other person was

paying attention to the boarding times was to thank for our late boarding. I

think we discovered we both cant be the flighty one-zero pun intended. Back to PHL--the checked

luggage was not at the gate. A few unhelpful people said they didnt know. But at the USAirwaysgate desk a helpful duo got us our bag. There were other people in my situation that did not take

the time to ask these particular people, probably too disheartened by the un-helpfuls, and rushed off

to presumable baggage claim. I do hope they got their luggage ok. One lady in the restroom saw

that I had mine and asked how to find hers. One down...


2/8

Thursday April 15 (Continued)

The airport itself is poorly signed and laid out until

you get into the international wing. The floating bird

sculptures decorated the walkway to our gate.

Needing an outlet to write this we ended up sitting

facing the walkway and right across

i, Cibo Bistro & Wine Bar. I

learned Cibo is Italian, of

course, for Food! How lovely.

Dad is finishing up his pre-

europe prep calling AT&T,

AmEx and the office. I am sitting here enjoying the

scenery: a primo gate and this great layout for a travel

journal already with Italy in mind. Uponconfirmation, we are booked for a lovely apartment

with a private bathroom in the city, ten minute walk

to the colosseum. It sounds great and the website was

thorough enough to satisfy.

They have just announced that many flights to Europe

are cancelled due to weather. I listened carefully and

did not hear Rome but I probably better check to be

certain. Besides I have to ask about that upgrade :)

4:30pm!

At Cibo Dad is enjoying the second time hes ever had

an adult beverage in an airport. The ahi tuna BLT (B

on the side) was wonderful with the pesto

mayonnaise.

The beautiful Lufthansa plane looks brand new flying

into its gate.

Boarding:

A volcano in Iceland has erupted snowing glassy ash

into all of Northern Europe and closing down many

airports...but not Romes. The flight is full and an

upgrade is impossible. But we have the exit row and

we sit next to a Peruvian woman for whom I translate

her weak coffee with sugar order to the attendant.

Beyond her is an American who chooses to live in

Rome and frankly is a bit snobby about most things -

especially the less than 5star accommodations we

were planning to secure en Roma.


3/8

Thursday, April 15 (Cont.)The International Flight

We enjoyed finding out there were at least six doctors on our international flight when,

unfortunately, the passenger behind us passed out from...dehydration, being cramped-none of these

doctors were certain. But at least they were there.

We made friends with our flight attendant and even got a free beer and glass of

wine for our charms. However, we did experience the first assumption that our

Father-Daughter duo was actually a romantic situation. The lady attendants kept

telling my Dad how lucky he was. He agreed-naturally without realizing what

they meant. When i went to the galley to stretch my legs they asked how long we

had been together. Mamma Mia!

Friday, April 16Ciao Roma!8:45am

We lost 6 hours in the flight, but woke up to a brand new day en Roma! I could feel the energy of

my first time in Western Europe. The polizia were walking in the Fiumicino airport with their

ceremonial swords and hats. I was so tickled. After getting the lay of the land, we shared a ride to

our pension with some heavily accented Texans and Romanians(I think

-we did not share a language

).

I got my first glimpse of the faux-hawked policemen driving their tiny cars and the countryside into

Roma.

10:00 am

We spent our 3 nightsinRomastaying in the Aventino neighborhood which I've since discovered is

historically remembered for being a sort of slum. Where we were was surrounded by American

embassies and international charities, as well as very clean tree lined streets with nice buildings. Our

pension was run by Alessio and his mother. They were a home of musicians-harp and piano. Alessio

was a ballet dancer. I did not know it at the time, but we were very close to the once glorious Baths

of Caracalla. We were easily within walking distance to Circo Massimo, which is just SW of ancient
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db38b3127ccefa72ba86469e00000050O00ActXLdq4Zs2YPbz4M/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db38b3127ccefa723831466800000050O00ActXLdq4Zs2YPbz4M/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db38b3127ccefa72c781870f00000050O00ActXLdq4Zs2YPbz4M/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db38b3127ccefa72c781870f00000050O00ActXLdq4Zs2YPbz4M/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db38b3127ccefa72c781870f00000050O00ActXLdq4Zs2YPbz4M/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db38b3127ccefa723831466800000050O00ActXLdq4Zs2YPbz4M/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db38b3127ccefa723831466800000050O00ActXLdq4Zs2YPbz4M/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db38b3127ccefa72ba86469e00000050O00ActXLdq4Zs2YPbz4M/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0db38b3127ccefa72ba86469e00000050O00ActXLdq4Zs2YPbz4M/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/


4/8

Rome. Being the hyperactive-cant-sit-still pair that we are, we proved the whole of Rome to be

within walking distance of our little home in the Aventine. We, being the guestimating-math-in-our-

heads pair that we also are, estimated we walked over ten miles a day through Rome: up and

down hills, ancient steps and even the occasional race somewhere. After checking a

rough estmation on Googlemaps, I would correct that to about 16.5miles a day. When

we left Rome our legs were looking pretty good.

15:00

After a short nap we headed out the door and into Ancient Rome: Palatine Hill, the

Forum and the Colosseum. The book we had, Rick Steves Guide to Italy, was proved

completely worthwhile on this first half day trip. In the Palatine Hill we tried to linger our

way into a guided tour group to hear the info. But the leader was savvy to our game and

almost embarrassingly waited for us to pass before she spoke. I guess I cant blame her.

Everywhere you turn, the guided tours are well planned and executed. Many have portable

recordings in umpteen languages-which look like huge, old school mobiles.

Palatine Hill

This was the country club of ancient Rome. Its sits high over the forum to give the affluent and

powerful a very tangible edge. Here we tried the Roman water fountains which look nearly ancient

and flow constantly. Rick (Steves) told us we could drink from them with no problems or worries of

excessive chemicals or other things we might consider when drinking U.S. tap water. Dad, a self

proclaimed water snob, wasnt so sure about the merits. But after a discussion about the overly

priced bottled water, he tried the public water. Its delicious. Im not exaggerating. The Romans

are known for their acquisition of clean water for all citizens still today it seems. How very Romanwe felt.

The Forum(Foro Romano)

Ancient Romes Via Sacra into the Forum changed my perspective on what a lifetime consists of.

We posed by the massive arches built by Jewish slaves, drank the water from the ancient fountains,

and walked where the Caesars walked. This city/empire is credited with being the largest influence

in western culture politically, socially, customarily-and one can feel it. Standing next to these ancient

ruins on every street made me feel alive and yet so close to death - but that I could accomplish great

things while alive. My eloquent friend Laura puts it as, You really feel your own mortality in

Rome. I think she hit it on the nose. I spent a lot of time just standing in the street and on therubble pondering...life.

I was recently at the Doctors, and to relax myself I went to that illusory happy place. I never have

really had one until I experienced the Forum.
http://maps.google.com/maps?q=fiumicino%2520airport&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wlhttp://maps.google.com/maps?q=fiumicino%2520airport&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wl


5/8

The Forum(Foro Romano)

Easily the most recognizable ancient structure in any

Christian country, this monster of a building is

glorious in theory and in practice. Outside the edifice

are actors dressed in Gladiator wear that are eager to

take photos with tourists. We saw the one we liked

the most-he had tattoos in Latin and a scruffy beard-

and started up a conversation. His name was Dave

and we were all pleased as punch to discover he, a full

blooded Roman, had spent 7 months (or years-I cant

remember) in Jacksonville, Florida, which is where I

am from. We were talking about places and street

names in Jax. Im sure we got more photos than the

average tourist. Grazie, Dave.

The colosseum itself was incredible to behold. Again,

I felt so tiny, so fragile that perhaps if I was born a

man 2000 years ago, I might be pitched into thecenter and devoured by a wild feline. Thankfully I

meet neither of those conditions and I walked around

the 6 acres without fear. The in house museum

displays were educational in English and Italian. The

most amazing thing about its ancient abilities were

the intricate series of material curtains pulled by ropes

and pulleys that covered the entire top of the stadium.

Incredibile!

Every night ended at the Fontana di Trevi whichseems to boast, see, look how much water we

Romans have! Its pure magic at night with all of the

tourists and coin tossers. I miss hearing the water

gushing through the alleyways and knowing youre so

close-another sense Laura introduced me to: La

Fontana!

Saturday, April 17Roma giorno 2

After a lovely breakfast of fresh fruit, cream, and caffe

we boarded the Metro and headed for Vatican City.

Citta del Vaticano

We first visited St. Peters Basilica, guarded by the clown-like uniformed Swiss Guard who declined a

photo with me. This immense building is home to Michaelangos Pieta and the Dove Window. The

scale of this Church completely transformed my idea of a house of worship. Ive heard of Catholic

wealth, read the histories and even experienced loaded, and sometimes greedy,


6/8

Churhes/Ministers. But seeing the scores of 25ft gilded statues set between marble and granite

pillars extending the levels to the dome at 448ft gave me a whole new perspective on the reach of

religion. I found the brass doors of the Chapel to be the most daunting and I couldnt help but

wonder if an ancient giant took up a massive public campaign insisting on anti-discriminatory

construction in religious houses and had the doors built to accommodate him and his family.

The Papal tomb is downstairs and many people were praying at Pope John Paul IIs grave. An

exciting, little tidbit from our time here was that I was mistaken for a celebrity by a group of Asian

tourists.

13:30 - Piazza di San Pietro (St. Peters Square)

We ate a nice lunch of fresh bread, mozzarella,

prosciutto and mineral water in the square and took

photos near the fountain. I was geared up for the

Vatican Museum when I looked in my guide book to

find they closed at 14:00. It was 13:30 when I

discovered this and I ran on a full stomach the 950

meters to the front gate of the museum only to find the

guards practically pushing the masses out. I was

thoroughly disappointed but had racked my firstjustifiable reason to return.

Castel de Sant Angelo

We instead went to The Mausoleum of Hadrian, now a museum. In the 14th century Pope Nicholas

III built a fortified, raised corridor from his Vatican quarters to the castle should war or plague

attack Rome. Now its a multi-story museum with a huge upper level terrace with views of every

angle of Rome. The bridge from the Castle into Rome was also built by Hadrian. Thanks to Rick

we learned that over 200 people died in 1450 when the bridge collapsed during a religious event

when pilgrims swarmed the tiny structure. Theyve since rebuilt it and the ten Bernini style statues

of the angels holding the instruments of passion lining each side are massive and haunting.

After crossing the bridge, we head through the tiny streets into the Pantheon neighborhood. I pull

Dad into a glass shop that reminds me of the first room in Willie Wonkas chocolate factory. A

Syrian couple own it and make the glass themselves. The ceiling is masked behind the rows of hand

painted glass bells and ornaments. I take my time in choosing something for Mom and take a few

pictures by his outside display.


7/8

The Pantheon

We all have seen the pictures of this anachronistically savvy temple built in aj1434253466. Flocks of

people marvel at the open air dome built out of concrete with hollow jars mixed into the cement to

make the it lighter. Many famous people were buried here, like artist, Raphael, but I was so much

more interested in gawking at the height than reading the names on the tombs. It was under

construction while we were there, but the massive doors to this public building once again took my

breath away. My imaginary giant must have been quite a force in public building policy!

Chiuse and Campo di Fiori

We walked through a few Churches in awe at their, for lack of a more appropriate word, splendor.

The Chuisa Santa Maria and the Chiusa Jesu we among our visit. We followed the Via ASDASK:J

through the theatre district into the Camp di Fiori. I ate a huge calzone and tasted the best olive oil

mixed with pepperocini. To my continued dismay I forgot to bring any of the deliciousness home.

We enjoyed the young crowd partying in the plaza with the street performers taking requests for

their 3-piece band: bassist, guitar and accordion. We had another quintessential Roman experience:

a well dressed 10 year old girl begging for coinage went through the restaurant unnoticed by the staff.

Trestevere

After our nightly stroll to the Trevi we decided to check out the working class, urban revival sector

Trestevere. We decided wed have a few adult beverages and an old man in his little bar with outdoor

seating tried to charge us 6 for a beer. We got it for 5 and he basically chased us offthe second

we finished it. Trestevere was not too kind to us at the next bar either. We contemplated taking the

short route home, but that would have led us along a wooded park. So we took the long way home

through the usual route, stopping to take pictures with the statue of bodies. We made it home that

night in time to video chat with Mom and Filipe.

Sunday, April 18 - Roma giorno 3We didnt get further than Circo Massimo when their ancient Roman reenactment caught ever

interest in my Dads mind. The legions of Roman soldiers dressed in authentic, hand made costumes

marched into the square in formation. Their families, also costumed, created cheering sections. We

perused the vendors including a beautiful jeweler who handcrafted precious metals into ancient

replicas. I fell in love with an Etruscan snake ring. Next time I will budget for pretty things, which

I will name throughout these essays. (So far 50 for the ring)

Back at the reenactment one man told us the events began in 35minutes. We wait a good thirty and

ask someone else. They say another 30minutes. Someone else says an hour. We realize this could

take a long time and we want to see other things. We head through Capolitine Hill, taking in a new

view of the Forum, and up to the Villa Borghese. This elite Villa now houses many classics: Bernini

sculptures, Raphael and Caravaggio paintings, its breathtaking. We snuck in Dads iphone and took

a few covert and consequently blurry snapshots.


8/8

After the Museum, we tour the pristine giardini (gardens) and expansive park that stretch over

6acres. We weave our way into the Piazza del Poppolo to see crews taking down a massive concert

set up-all part of Culture Week. Down the Via del Corso to the Spanish Steps that

tour books love to send you to. I personally dont understand why one would go

all the way to Italy to buy French couture. Maybe one day Ill deem that a valid

expense and open my eyes to that world. For now Ill stick to history and regular

ole culture when I visit ancient cities.

We ended the day in a trendy neighborhood and enjoyed a delicious dinner at an

Albanian run ristorante. Our waiter wasnt very busy and filled us in on the low down of Roma.

On our trip home, we bid farewell to our favorite fountain.

The next morning we are scheduled to leave this city I have quickly fallen in adoration of. Im a little

mournful and anxious, but Dad assures me theres plenty more to see in this paise bella.

italy 2010 journal

Documents