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Fresh Pretty DesignsFresh + Pretty Designsto Make and Wearto Make and Wear

Kay WhittKay Whitt

Fresh + Pretty Designsto Make and Wear

SEW SEREN IP ITYSEW SERENDIPIT Y

Includes

Full-Size Patterns

Kay Whitt



SEW SEREN IP IT YSEW SERENDIP IT Y



Fresh + Pretty Designsto Make and Wear

SEW SERENDIP IT Y

K AY WHIT T

K R A U S E P U B L I C A T I O N S

C I N C I N N A T I , O H I O



M e t r i c C o n v e r s i o n C h a r t

T o convert to multiply byInches Centimeters 2.54

Centimeters Inches 0.4Feet Centimeters 30.5

Centimeters Feet 0.03Y ards Meters 0.9Meters Y ards 1.1

Sew Serendipity. Copyright © 2010 by Kay Whitt. Manufacturedin China. All rights reserved. The patterns and drawings in thisbook are for the personal use of the reader. By permission ofthe author and publisher, they may be either hand-traced orphotocopied to make single copies, but under no circumstancesmay they be resold or republished. No other part of this book maybe reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanicalmeans including information storage and retrieval systems withoutpermission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer

who may quote brief passages in a review. Published by KrausePublications, a division of F+W Media, Inc., 4700 East GalbraithRoad, Cincinnati, Ohio, 45236. (800) 289-0963. First Edition.

www.fwmedia.com

14 13 12 11 10 5 4 3 2 1

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DISTRIBUTED IN THE U.K. AND EUROPE BY DAVID & CHARLESBrunel House, Newton Abbot, Devon, TQ12 4PU, EnglandTel: (+44) 1626 323200, Fax: (+44) 1626 323319Email: [email protected]

DISTRIBUTED IN AUSTRALIA BY CAPRICORN LINK P.O. Box 704, S. Windsor NSW, 2756 AustraliaTel: (02) 4577-3555

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication DataWhitt, Kay. Sew serendipity : fresh + pretty designs to make and wear / KayWhitt. -- 1st ed. p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13: 978-1-4402-0357-2 (hardcover : alk. paper) ISBN-10: 1-4402-0357-1 (hardcover : alk. paper) 1. Dressmaking. I. Title. TT515.W426 2010 646.4’04--dc22 2010008060

Edited by Vanessa LymanDesigned by Michelle ThompsonProduction coordinated by Greg NockStep-by-step photography by Christine Polomsky, all other

photography by Ric DeliantoniIllustrations and samples created by Kay Whitt

About the Author “Love what you do, and you will never work a day in

your life.”

In a nutshell, this quote describes exactly the way

Kay Whitt feels about her work as a pattern designer for

clothing and accessories. After spending nine years as

an elementary school teacher (sewing in her spare time

and selling her creations to colleagues), she resigned from

teaching and launched her pattern company. Since then,

Kay has earned a reputation for her innovative designs

and clear instructions, making her patterns some of the

most popular in the marketplace.

In addition to the designs she creates for her company,

Serendipity Studio (www.sewserendipity.com), she is

a licensed designer for the McCall Pattern Company as

Kay Whitt Designs.

Kay resides in Texas with her husband, Keith, and

their two birds, ET and Zeppy. She is always busy workingon something new and exciting and never tires of sharing

her passion for design and sewing.



C o n t e n t s 9 INT RODUC T ION 1 0 C UST OM F IT T ING 1 1 St eps t o a Cust om Fit 1 2 T aking Measur ement s 1 3 Making t he Muslin 1 4 Ad just ing t he Fit

1 6 T OOLS OF T HE T RADE 1 7 Sew ing Mac hine

and Ac c essor ies 1 8 Indispensable Not ions

2 0 SEW ING T EC HN IQUES 2 1 Pr essing Int ent ional Cr eases 2 1 Double T opst it c hing 2 2

Inst alling an Inv isible Z ipper 2 4 Adding Fac ings 2 5 Under st it c hing 2 6 Making Gat her s 2 7 Using a Ruf fler At t ac hment

2 8 S k i r t s 3 0 Gener al Const r uc t ion 3 6 Appliqué Skir t 4 0 T ailor ed Skir t

4 6 Mult i-Fabr ic Skir t 5 2 T hr ee-Fabr ic Skir t 5 8 Ruf fled Skir t 6 4 Flor al Skir t

7 0 T u n i c s a n d Dr e 7 2 Gener al Const r uc t ion 7 8 Damask T unic 8 4 Ruf fle-T r immed T unic 9 0 Fr ay ed T unic Dr ess

9 6 Geomet r ic T unic Dr ess 1 0 0 Flir t y T unic Dr ess 1 0 6 Romant ic Flor al T unic Dr ess

1 1 2 J a c k e t s 1 1 4 Gener al Const r uc t ion 1 2 2 Silk and Linen Jac ket 1 2 8 Par isian Jac ket 1 3 4 Cozy W ool Jac ket 1 4 0 Denim and Faux Fur Jac ket

1 4 6 Mod Jac ket

1 5 4 Classic T ailor ed Jac ket

1 5 8 RESOURC ES

1 5 9 INDEX



Chapter One

S RTSSK IRTS

I LOVE A GREAT SKIRT! It’s the perfect way to stay cool on hot summer

days, yet look sophisticated. I especially love the way a skirt can bring together

a collection of fabric prints in just the right way. With the skirts featured here,

you can achieve a casual look while out and about running errands, or look

quite elegant for a special evening by pairing it with one of the jackets.

The skirts in this section are all based on one set of pattern pieces for an

A-line six-panel skirt. Once you have made yourself familiar with the General

Construction techniques, you can make any of these skirts easily. Through

the use of various fabric combinations and embellishments, each showcases

a unique style and yet remains simple to sew. Once you have mocked up this

design following the recommendations in Custom Fitting, you’ll have a patterndesign that is perfect for you.

Be creative with your fabric choices. For this design, I suggest 100% cotton

quilting fabrics, linen or silk. I love pairing a great texture with cotton—silk with

cotton is one of my personal favorites!

Zippered losure a bac

Faed waisline

Six-panel design

A-line for a flatering fi

Tree opions for lengh



G

E

N

E

R

L

C

O

N

S

T

R

U

C

T

I

O

NGENER AL CONS TRUC T ION

Sk ir t s

Once a l l the f a bric pattern pieces ha ve been cut and a ll

notches ha ve been marked or clipped, remo ve the tissue

pattern pieces.

NOE: A l l seam a llowances are ½" un less otherwise stated.

PREPARE THE WAIS TLINE FACING

1. A pp l y f usi b le interf acing to the wrong sides of Front

and Back Facings f o l lowing the manuf acturer’s

instructions.

2. Matching notches, pin the Back Facings to the Front

Facing, right sides together. (figure 1)

3. Sew ½" seams and press open. Finish the lower edge of

the facing unit b y serging or using a zigzag stitch. Set

the facing unit aside. (figure 2)

MAK E THE POCK E T

1. If making one pocket, cut out two Pocket pieces. If

making two pockets, cut out four Pocket pieces.

2. A pp ly either the smooth or ruffl e contrast f a bric

band (as directed in the variation you are making) to

the top edge of the Pocket piece, right sides together,

matching the raw edges. Te contrast band shou ld

extend 1" be yond each side edge. (figure 3)

3. Sew the contrast f a bric band to the Pocket piece with

a ¼" seam a l lowance.

4. With right sides together, la y the remaining Pocket

piece on top. Fo l low the pre vious stitching a long the

top edge and stitch a ¼" seam a long the bottom. Lea ve

side edges open. (figure 4)

F rn t Fa i ng B ac Fa i ng s

R ig h t s id e o fa in g un it

L w e r fi n ish e d e d ge

1 "

1"

Sm h nt ra st ba nd R uff le n tr as t b an d

1"

1"

1 "

A ll p ie es ri gh t sid es t ge th er

¼" s e a m al lw a n e

FIGURE 4

FIGURE 3

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 1

1 "



5. Turn the pocket right side out and press the seams

at the top and bottom. Press the contrast fabric bandor ruffl e aw ay from the poc

ket to extend beyond the pocket edge. Edgestitch and topstitch the upper pocket edge on the main fabric below the seam. (figure 5)

6. For the smooth contrast f abric band, edge- and

topstitch the band along the pressed edges. (figure 6)

7. Pin the pocket to the Side Front piece, right side up.

For one pocket, pin to the left Side Front. For tw opockets, place one on each Side Front. A ll piecesshould have right sides facing up. Place the pocket on the skirt so that the upp

er slanting seam is about 3½"dow n from the top edge of the skirt and the low erslanting seam is about 6" down f rom the top edge ofthe skirt. (figure 7)

8. Sew the side edges of the pocket in place, using a

¼" seam. Edgestitch along the bottom on the main fabric. Topstitch along the bottom edge of the pocketas w ell. Trim the contrast f abric band or ruffl e edges that extend beyond the Side Front edge. (figure 8)

Cu t aw a y C u t a w a y

Cu t aw a y

Ed g e st it a n d t p s ti t e d g e

6 " 3

½ "

S ti t ¼ " f m s id es

T p st i t l w e r e d g e o p c e t

E d g e s t i t i n g a n d t p s t i t i n g

FIGURE 7

FIGURE 6FIGURE 5

FIGURE 8



Si de F r nt s

Ce nt er F rn t

C en te r Ba c

Si de B ac

Ed g e fi n ish C en te r B a c

FIGURE 9

FIGURE 10

FIGURE 11

SE W THE SK IR T SEC TIONS

AND ADD THE ZIPPER

1. With right sides together, matching notches and top

and bottom edges, p lace a Side Front on each side of

the Center Front. Pin, then stitch together. (figure 9)

Tese seams can be serged together or trimmed and

zigzagged to keep the edges f rom ra ve lling.

2. Press the seams toward the Center Front and edge-

stitch c lose to the seam on the Center Front piece.

3. P lace one Side Back on each of the Center Back skirt

pieces, right sides together. Match the notches as

we ll as the top and bottom edges. Sew and press the

seam toward the Center Back piece. Edgestitch the

seams. K eep the Center Back open to prepare f or the

zipper insta llation. (figure 10)

4. Edge finish each Center Back edge and insta ll the

zipper (page 22) according to the instructions in the

Sewing echniques section. (figure 11)



F r n t o s k i r t ( p i e e s r i gh t s i d e s t g e t h e r )

E d g es e v e n

( R i g h t s i d e o s k i r t ) Z i pp er p e n e d u t

C l ip w a i st li n e se a m t s t i t

FIGURE 14

FIGURE 13

FIGURE 12

SEW T HE SIDE SEAMS

AND ADD T HE FACINGS

1. Once the zipper has been installed and the seam

is sew n and pressed, place the f ront and back skirtsections right sides together. Make sure the side seams are aligned, the notches are matched, and the edges at the top and bottom are even. Sew each side seam and press the seam to one side. (figure 12) Clip the curve of the seam near the top as necessary.

2. Edgestitch the side seams, as before, close to the

seamline.

3. Unzip the skirt and open out the top edge at the

zipper. Add the facings to the top edge of the skirt, right sides together w ith back edges ev en, matchingside seams. (figure 13)

4.

Sew the facing to the skirt. Trim the seam to ¼" and clip the seam allow ance. (figure 14)

( W r o n g

s i d e o

f a c i n g )



L w er sk ir t ( w rn g si de )

FIGURE 17

5. Understitch the f acing as instructed in the Sewing

echniques section (page 25).

6. urn the f acing to the inside of the skirt and press.

C lose the zipper and open out the f acings at Center

Back. Fo ld in the ends of the f acing ½" and gent l y

press. urn the f acing back to the inside and press

again. (figures 15a, 15 b)

7. Edgestitch the top finished edge of the skirt through

a l l thicknesses. (figure 16)

ADD THE LO WER SK IR T

1. Sew the skirt’s Lower Back Pane l piece to the Lower

Front Pane l piece a long the side seams. K eep right

sides together, and match notches and edges. (figure

17) Press seams to one side.

E dg e tu rn ed b ac

Fa i ng , pe n e d u t

W r n g s id eo sk ir t

F a in g, tu rn e d t in sid e

E dg es tit in g

FIGURE 16

W r ng s i d e o sk ir t

FIGURE 15A

FIGURE 15B



2. Pin and stitch the low er skirt to the main skirt, right

sides together, matching notches and side seams.(figure 18)

3. Press the seam tow ard the main skirt. Edgestitch

next to the seam on top of the seam allowance and also topstitch if desired.

HEM T HE SK IRT

1. Clean finish the lower edge of the skirt w ith the

serger, or use a zigzag stitch. Turn up a 1" hem,w rong sides together, and press. (figure 19)

2. From the right side of the f abric, topstitch along

the bottom edge of the skirt, once ¾ " aw ay f rom the pressed edge, and then again ⅝" f rom the edge. Pressthe hem. (figure 20)

P i e es ri g h t s id es t ge th er

L w e r s k i rt

M a in s k i r t

Sk ir t, w r n g si d e u t

1 " h e m t u r n e d t w r n g si d e

T p st it i n g ,

5

⁄ 8

" & ¾" f m e d ge

FIGURE 20

FIGURE 19

FIGURE 18



Skirts

MULTI FABRIC SK I RTMULTI -FABRIC SK IRT

THE MULTI-FABRIC SKIRT uses a combination of five

coordinating fabric prints. Have you ever seen a collection

of fabric that you loved so much, you wanted to buy all

the pieces? Here’s your excuse to buy all of the prints you

love, and then put them together in a way that makes the

most of them.

M a t e r i a l s l i s t

For a l l sizes:

Fa bric A (Center Front and

Center Bac k ): ¾ yard

Fa bric B (R ig ht Side Front

and Left Side Bac k ): ¾ yard

Fa bric C (Left Side Front

and R ig ht Side Bac k ):

¾ yard

Fa bric D (Poc ket ): ¼ yard

Fa bric E (Poc ket R uffl e and

Hem R uffl e ): ¼ yard

Y arda g es f or all f abrics based on

45"- wide cotton f abric

O t h e r Su p p l i e s

2½ yards of ¾"- wide ric krac k

trim

¼ yard of 20"- wide fusi b le

interfacing for lig ht- to

medium- weig ht fa brics

9" in visi b le zi p per

Po l yester mac hine t hread to

matc h fa brics

R otar y cutter, ru ler and mat

(o ptiona l )

Scissors

R uffl er attac hment for

se wing mac hine (o ptiona l )

Mar king pen or penci l

MY INITIAL SKETCH

Notice in my original sketch how the pocket was on the right

side; I switched it to the left. The sketch also shows a partial

ruffle because this is an optional design element. So you be the

designer and decide: to ruffle, or not to ruffle?



LA YOU T

From the tissue pattern, use the cutting lines f rom the f ul l- length skirt. Te la youts a bove show flipped tissue

pattern pieces; this a l lows you to correctl y cut both the left and right sides of the Side Front and Side Back pieces

of the skirt. Te layout a lso shows how to p lace the pieces if you’re using f a bric with a directional print. If there is

no apparent direction to the print, then la y the pieces out howe ver best conser ves f a bric, making sure to f o llow the

grain line. Te f acings are not shown, but can be cut f rom Fa bric D.

CONS TRUC TION

Fol low the steps in Genera l Construction for Prepare

the W aistline Facin g .

CON TRAS T FOR POCK E T

1. Cut two 2"-wide strips b y the width of f a bric f rom

Fa bric E. rim se lvedge edges f rom the ends.

A llowing a ¼" seam, piece the two strips, right sides

together, a long one of the narrow ends, making one

long strip.

2. Press the seam open. Fo ld the strip in ha lf lengthwise

with the wrong sides together, matching the raw

edges, and press.

F ld o ab r

Ce n t er F r nt

C en te r Ba c

Fa br A —S elv ed g e e dg e

Fa br D

* U e le f ve r p e e r a n g

F ld

P c et

S elv ed ge e dg e

S d e Ba c ( t i u e a e up )

S de F r nt (t iu e a e d w n )

F ab r C —S n gl e t h c ne s o a br S elv ed g e e dg e

S d e b a c (t iue a e d w n )

S de F r nt ( ti u e a e u p)

Fa b r B —S n gle t h c ne s o a br



FIGURE 1

3. Use a long, straight stitch to sew tw o row s at ¼" and

⅜" f rom the raw edges. Create gathers by pulling on the bobbin threads. Or use a ruffler attachment to gather at every 6th stitch, sew ing along the length of the raw edges approximately ⅜" f rom the edge.Press flat.

4. W ith right sides together and matching the raw

edges, stitch the ruffle to one of the Pocket pieces atthe top and bottom edges. Follow the M ake t he Pocket instructions in Gener al Construction to complete the pocket and its placement on the left Side Front.(figure 1)

ADDING RICK RACK T RIM FOR

SIDE FRONT AND BACK

1.

Pin the rickrack trim to the sides of the Center Frontand Center Back pieces along the ½" seam allow ance.Sew dow n the middle of the trim. (figure 2)

2. Continue w ith the Sew the Skirt Sect ions and Add the

Z ip per instructions in General Constr uction, except that you press the Center Front and Center Back seams toward the Side pieces so that the rickrack trim lies on top of the Center Front and Center Back.Edgestitch and topstitch the seams. (figure 3)

3. Complete Sew t he Side Seams and Ad d t he F acin g s

section in General Constr uction.

FIGURE 2

FIGURE 3

C e n t er F r on t

R i c ra c

R i c ra c

t u r n e d t o w ar d

C en te r F r o n t



RUFFLE HEM

1. For the ruffl e hem, cut two 4"-wide strips f rom

Fa bric E b y the width of f a bric. rim off the se l vedge

edges f rom each end. A l lowing a ¼" seam, piece the

two strips, right sides together, a long one of the

narrow ends, making one long strip. Press the seam

a l lowance open.

2. Fo ld the strip in ha lf lengthwise, wrong sides

together, and press.

3. Use a long, straight stitch to sew two rows at ¼" and

⅜ " f rom the raw edges. Create gathers b y pu l ling on

the bo b bin threads. Or use a ruffl er attachment to

gather at e ver y 6th stitch, sewing a long the length

of the raw edges approximate ly ⅜ " f rom the edge.

Press flat.

4. Pin the ruffl e to the right side of the skirt, beginning

2" to the lef t of the back center seam, ad justing the

gathers to fit, a ligning the raw edges of the ruffl e and

skirt. (figure 4)

5. Begin stitching the ruffl e in p lace, starting 2" in f rom

the back center seam, using a ½" seam a llowance.

Stitch a ll the wa y around the hem, stopping 2" bef ore

the beginning. (figure 5) C lip the threads.

6. Press both loose ends of the ruffl e back on them-

se lves, matching a l l the raw edges, positioning the

f o lds e ven with the back center seam. (figure 6)

Open the fo lded ends and draw a line on each pressed

crease. (figure 7)

7. rim the ruffl e ends to within 1" of the markings.

With right sides together, match the markings and

stitch the ruffl e ends together. (figure 8)

8. Stitch again in the seam a llowance to reinf orce the

seam, approximate l y ⅛ " awa y f rom the origina l

stitching. rim the seam, then press to the side.

9. Pin the open area of the ruffl e to the skirt, matching

the seam with the back center seam and stitch

in p lace.

10. Serge, or trim and finish the seam edge with a zigzag

stitch. Press the seam toward the skirt.

11. opstitch the skirt c lose to the seam line. R epeat ¼"

awa y f rom the first row of stitching.

FIGURE 6

FIGURE 5

FIGURE 8

O v er lap

2" 2"

F l d b a c 2 "

S k rt

S tt n g ln e

FIGURE 4

2"

B ac en te r ea m

2"

Dr aw l n e d w n p re s ed r ea e

FIGURE 7

Ba c en te r ea m

B a c e n ter e a m

B ac e nt er e am



m a k e i t y o u r o w n

To make this skir t your o wn, ho w abou t choo

sing a di f feren t trim be t ween

the Side Fron t and Side Back? Or you could

bu y an addi tional fabric for

a con tras ting s trip be t ween the seams, like

the Tailored Skir t. Ano ther

op tion — which I like — would be to add a s wee t

appliqué to the pocke t.



Chapter Two

TUNICS ND DRESSESTUNICS AND DRESSES

THE IDEA THAT A tunic can also become a dress is based on my love of

a versatile design with simple lines that is easy to sew and compliments anyone.

Nothing is better than mastering one pattern that can serve so many purposes!

All six projects in this section originate from one basic set of pattern pieces that

features details such as a raglan sleeve, Empire waistline, and a closely fitting

A-line skirt in three lengths.

The following projects detail six variations: two hip-length tunics that can

be worn with a slim skirt or pants, two above-knee-length and two below-

knee-length dresses. Through the use of various fabric combinations and

embellishments, each project showcases its own unique style and yet remains

simple to sew using the same pattern pieces again and again. Suggested fabricsfor this design include 100% cotton quilting fabrics, linen or silk.

Once you have mocked up this design following the recommendations in

Custom Fitting, you will have a pattern design that is perfect for you. Now it’s

time to have fun with all of those fabulous fabrics!

Elasti at shoulder only

Gentle A-line skirt

Subtle gatheringat necline,sleeves and

waist

Zipper losure at side seam

Empire waistline

Raglan sleeve

Hip, above-knee or below-knee lengths



G

E

N

E

R

L

C

O

N

S

T

R

U

C

T

I

O

NGENER AL CONS TRUC T ION

Tu n i cs a nd Dr e ss e s

Once the f abric pieces ha ve been cut out and a l l notches

ha ve been snipped, remo ve tissue pattern pieces.

NOE: A l l seam al lowances are ½" un lessotherwise stated.

PREPARE THE FACINGS

1. A pp ly f usi b le interf acing to the wrong sides of Front

and Back Facings f o l lowing the manuf acturer’s

instructions. Note that the S lee ve Facings are not

backed with interf acing.

2.

Matching notches, pin the S lee ve Facings to the

Front Facing, right sides together. Off set the edges

to a lign the ½ " seam a llowance on either side. (figure

1a) R epeat for the Back Facing. (figure 1 b)

3. Sew a l l f our seams and press. Finish the outer edge

of the f acing unit b y serging or using a zigzag stitch

a long the outer edge (figure 2). Set f acing unit aside.

A T TACH THE BODICE

AND SK IR T PIECES

1. Whi le the Front and Back Bodices are sti l l f o lded in

ha lf , snip a sma l l triang le f rom each corner of the

f o ld within the seam a llowance. Tis wil l mark the

center of the neck line as we l l as at the waistline.

(figure 3)

FIGURE 1A

FIGURE 3

FIGURE 2

O ff s e t e d g e s t o a l i g n

½" s e a m a l l o w a n c e

F r n t Fa i n g

B ac Fa i ng

Ou t r fi ni h d

d g

Sn ip F o l d

Fr n t Fa i ng

Fr n t B di B ac B di

S l v Fa i ng

B ac Fa i ng

F r nt Fa in g

F o l d

FIGURE 1B

Sl v Fa i ng

S l v F a in g

Sn ip



2. Use a long, straight stitch to sew tw o rows along the

low er edge of each Bodice piece, one row at ¼" and the other at ⅜ ". Begin and end approximately 2" f rom the side edges. (figure 4)

3. W hile the Front and Back Skirt are still f olded in half ,

snip aw ay a small triangle from the top edge of the f old to mark the center of each (as you did in step 1 for the bodices).

4. Place the Front Bodice on the Front Skirt, right sides

together, matching the center snips. Gently pull the gathering stitches until the low er edge of the bodice is the same size as the top of the skirt. Distributethe gathers ev enly and pin in place, keeping the raw edges ev en. Stitch the bodice to the skirt using a ½" seam allow ance. (figure 5). R epeat for the Back Bodice and Back Skirt.

5. Serge the seam or trim the seam and use a zigzag

stitch to clean-finish the edge.

6. Press the seam toward the skirt for f ront and back.

Press creases in the bodice pieces to make thegathering lie flat. (See page 21.)

7. Double topstitch close to the seam. (See page 21.)

(figure 6)

INST ALL T HE ZIPPER

1. Clean-finish the edge on the lef t side of the front and

back pieces by serging or using a zigzag stitch. Leave the entire seam allow ance open.

2. On the back, mark 3" dow n from the top on the lef t

side along the finished edge. R epeat for the f rontpiece. (figure 7)

3. Install the inv isible zipper. (See page 22.)

4. Once the zipper has been installed, stitch the seam

closed abov e the zipper just like for the seam below the zipper.

FIGURE 6

FIGURE 7

FIGURE 5

F r n t B d i (w r n g s id )

F r n t S ki r t ( ri g h t s id )

T ps t i t in g

F i n i s h d d g s

F r n t B d i ,l f s id

3 " Ba c B d i ,l f si d

FIGURE 4

F r n t B d i ( sa m r B a c B d i )

2" 2 "

C n t r

C n t r



5. o reinf orce the zipper opening, sew a bartack at

the upper edge. Drop the f eed dogs on your sewing

machine and set it f or a tight zigzag that is approxi-

mate ly ⅛ " wide. With the zipper c losed, center the

machine foot o ver the seam a bo ve the zipper as c lose

as possib le to the beginning of the zipper opening

and stitch. (figure 8)

SE W THE SIDE SEAM

AND SLEE VES

1. Sew the opposite side seam, c lean-finishing the edge,

and press the seam toward the back.

2. Fo ld each S lee ve piece in ha lf and snip on the f o ld

within the seam a l lowance to mark the center.

3.

With right sides together, sew the s lee ve seam,

c lean-finish the edge and press.

4. Using the longest straight stitch on your sewing

machine, sew two lines of gathering stitches a long

the bottom edge of each s lee ve, ¼" and ⅜ " awa y

f rom the raw edge. Begin and end at the s lee ve seam.

(figure 9)

5. o make the bands f or the s lee ves, measure around

your upper arm, approximate l y 3"-4" a bo ve the

e lbow. A dd 1½" to this measurement for ease and the

seam a l lowance.

6. Cut two strips f rom the f a bric, 2¼" wide b y the

measurement determined in the pre vious step.

7. Sew the narrow ends of each strip together, right

sides together, using a ¼" seam a l lowance. Press the

seams to one side. (figure 10)

8. Fo ld the bands in ha lf , wrong sides together, with

raw edges e ven and press. With the seam at one

end, flatten the band to find the center. Snip a sma ll

triang le at the top raw edges to mark the center.

(figure 11)

FIGURE 8

FIGURE 10

FIGURE 9

s l e e v e b a n d s

Measuring your arm will result in the best fit f or the sleeve band, but, in a pinch, thereare some benchmark measurements you can use. (Seam allowances are included.)

XXS: 12¾" XS: 13" S: 13¼" M: 13½" L: 13¾" XL: 14" XXL: 14¼"

Ba r ta c

Sid am w it h zi pp r

S a m

R w o g at h ri ng tit

S l v

S am p r s d t n i d

½" am a ll w a n Sl v b an d

FIGURE 11

Sn ip

T p ra w d g

S a



9. W ith right sides together, place the band on the

sleeve, matching seams and center snips. Gently pull the gathering stitches until the low er edge ofthe sleev e is the same size as the band. Distributethe gathers evenly and pin in place, raw edges ev en.(figure 12)

10. Stitch the band and sleeve together ensuring that

the seamline is below the lowest line of gatheringstitches. Serge the seam edges or trim and zigzag.

11. Press the seam toward the sleeve. Press creases in the

gathering (as you did w ith the Front and Back Bodice pieces earlier).

12. Edgestitch the sleev e band close to the seam and

again along the outer edge. (figure 13)

ADD T HE SLEEV ES AND FACINGS

1. W ith right sides together, pin the sleeves to the

bodice by matching notches and seams. (figure 14)

2. Stitch the seams. Serge the seam or trim the seam

and use a zigzag stitch to clean-finish the edge. Press.

3. Fold the Front Facing in half, matching sleev e seams,

and snip the center at the fold. R epeat for the Back Facing. (figure 15)

4. Using a long, straight stitch, sew tw o lines of

gathering stitches along the Front and Back Bodice at the neck, ¼" and ⅜ " from the raw edges, starting 1½"in from the sleev e seams. (figure 16)

FIGURE 14

FIGURE 13

FIGURE 12

FIGURE 15

S l v (w r n g s id )

Sl v ba n d

P in ts o F r n t a n d B a c B d i e n d i n g

T p st i t i n g

E d g st i t i n g

M a t s am s

S l v ( w r n g si d )

B a c B d i ( w r n g s i d ) F r n t B di (w r n g s id )

S n i p

B a c F a in g

S l v F a i n g

F r n t F a in g

F o l d

S l v B a c B d i

S l v

1 ½"

F r n t B d i

1½"

F o l d

1 ½" 1 ½"

R aw d g s

FIGURE 16



5. Pin the f acing unit to the top edge of the bodice and

s lee ves, right sides together, matching seams and

center snips. Gentl y pu l l gathering threads unti l the

neck line edges match the f acing unit in size. N ote:

Make sure that the larger Front Facing is matched

up with the Front Bodice edge bef ore stitching. Sew

together with a ½" seam a l lowance.(figure 17)

6. rim the seam a l lowance to ¼" and c lip the cur ve of

the neck line o ver the S lee ve section. On the Front

and Back Bodice sections, notch the seam to ease the

cur ve. (figure 18)

7. Understitch the front and back neck line edges as

detai led in Sewin g T echniques (page 25), stopping at

the s lee ve seams. (Te gathering on the s lee ves wil l

keep the f acings f rom ro lling outward.)

8. urn the f acings to the inside of the bo

dice and press.

9. o make the casing for the e lastic, stitch ½" awa y

f rom the finished edge a long the top of each s lee ve.

(figure 19)

10. Cut two pieces of e lastic ⅜ " b y 6" long.

11. Secure a sma l l safety pin near one end of the e lastic

and insert into s lee ve casing. Pu ll the e lastic through

unti l on ly a bout ½" extends be yond the seam on

either side. Pin in p lace. R epeat for the remaining

s lee ve. (figure 20)

FIGURE 18

FIGURE 17

FIGURE 19

FIGURE 20

B a c B d i

F r nt B d i

“T ri an gl ”

“T ria n gl ” S ni p Sn ip

B ac B di

Sl v

B di

B di T p ti t i ng ½" f m dg

S ti t l in o a in g

El a ti

½" be nd a m

Fr n t B di

F a c i n

g

u n i t

F a c i n g u n i t



FIGURE 22

FIGURE 23

FIGURE 21

S ti t - i n - t h - d i t

R i g h t s id o Sl v

½" ½"

E l a s t i

T p s t it in g ½" m d g t l in u p w it h s l v a s in g

E d g s t i t i n g

T p s ti t i n g d t a i l o h m

E d g st i t i n g

ADD T HE HEM

1. Serge or zigzag the bottom edge to clean-finish.

2. Turn up 1¼" f or the hem and press. Pin in place and

topstitch 1" up from pressed edge. Stitch again ¼"away from first line of stitching. Edgestitch along the folded edge of the bottom as desired. (figure

23)

12. Try on the tunic/dress and check for fit on the

neckline. Pull up elastic until you are pleased w ith the fit. Measure across the top of each sleev e to checkthat they are the same. Stitch the elastic in place bystitching-in-the-ditch of the sleev e seam on the frontand back. Trim the elastic that extends beyond the seamline. (figure 21)

13. Press the entire bodice, intentionally creating creases

in the gathering as detailed in the Sewing T echniques(page 21). Topstitch around the bodice necklinesections ½" aw ay f rom the finished edges, matching up w ith the top of sleeve stitching. Edgestitch the front and back neckline edges to finish. (figure 22)



Chapter Three

J KETS JACKETS

JACKETS ARE SUCH A wonderful addition to a wardrobe! I love how they

have a way of pulling an entire outfit together. Some jackets make a statement

of their own with bold fabrics or special trims with lots of texture. The jackets in

this section have their own star appeal as well as being just the perfect addition

to an outfit. All six projects originate from one basic set of pattern pieces which

features details such as a raglan three-quarter-length sleeve, raised waistline,

and a semi-fitted A-line skirt with subtle gathering and featured in three lengths.

Each project has its own individual detailing with the collar, cuffs, button tabs

or a tie belt.

The following projects detail six variations: two at hip-length that can be

worn with a skirt or pants, two fingertip-length and two knee-length jackets.Through the use of various fabric combinations and embellishments, each

showcases its own unique style and yet remains simple to sew. Suggested

fabrics for this design include linen, heavier weight cottons such as twills or

velveteen, linen, and wool.

Once you have made muslins for this design following the recommendations

in Custom Fitting, you will have a perfect-fitting jacket to show off a great

piece of textured fabric!

Opinal llar

Butn lsure

Bus dars

Gahering a bdieseam fr ease o fi lwer bdy

Raglan sleeves

Opins frsleeve hems

A-line fr lwer jace

Tree lengh pins

Empire wais



9 7 8 1 4 4 0 2 0 3 5 7 2

5 2 7 9 9

Z4958 US $27.99

(CAN $33.99)

ISBN-13: 978-1-4402-0357-2

ISBN-10: 1-4402-0357-1

E A N

U P C

it's sew easy! a perfect holiday gift to give and to sew!

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