jacket by - sew daily...linen jacket collar band (e) cut 1 main cut 1 interfacing...

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jacketdraped collar linen

patter

n Project photo on page 42; instructions on page 89

by tina lewis

sewdaily.com page 1 of 30

Reviving the vintage, open-seam treatment called fagoting, this cropped jacket of handkerchief linen has a flattering draped collar

and cuffed long sleeves that are edged with decorative stitching. Next stop,

garden party at the Grantham’s.


Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com

layoutcutting

page 2 of 30

44"/54" main2-18

Side Front (B)

Front (A)

Front (A)

Front (A)

Front (A)

Colla

r Ban

d (E

)

Side Back (C) Sleeve (F)

Sleeve (F)

Cuf

f (G

)

Cuf

f (G

)

Back (D)

fold

selvedges

selvedges

selvedges

Linen Jacket54” main

14 2 3/8 yds16-18 2 1/2 yds

Side Front (B)

Sleeve (F)

Front (A)

Front (A)

Front (A)

Colla

r Ban

d (E

)

Sleeve (F)

Front (A)

Side Back (C)

Cuf

f (G

)

Cuf

f (G

)

Back (D)

fold

selvedges

selvedges

selvedges

Linen Jacket44” main

2-6 2 3/8 yds8-10 2 1/2 yds12-16 2 5/8 yds18 2 2/3 yds



cutting layout

page 3 of 30

20"/58 interfacing2-18

selvedges

selvedges

Cuf

f (G

)

Cuf

f (G

)

Side Front (B)

Side Front (B)

fold

Side Back (C)

Side Back (C)

Sleeve (F)Sleeve (F)

Back (D)

selvedges

Linen Jacket20” interfacing

2-4 2 1/2 yds6-14 2 5/8 yds

selvedges

selvedges

selvedges

Side Front (B)

Side Front (B)

Cuf

f (G

)

Cuf

f (G

)fold

Back (D)Sleeve (F)

Side Back (C) Side Back (C)

Sleeve (F)


16-18 3 yds

Sleeve (F)

Side B

ack (C)

Side Front (B

)

Cuff (G)

Cuff (G)

Back (D

)

fold

selvedges


2-10 1 yd12-18 1 1 /8 yds



page 4 of 30

cutting layout

Sleeve (F)

Side B

ack (C)

Side Front (B

)

Back (D

)

fold

selvedges

Linen Jacket58” lining

2-12 1 yd14-18 1 1 /8 yds

44"/58" lining2-18

selvedges

Side Front (B

)

fold

Back (D

) Sleeve (F)

Side B

ack (C)


2-12 1 1/8 yds

selvedges

Side Front (B)

fold

Sleeve (F)

Side Back (C)


14-16 1 2/3 yds



patternGettinG Started Basic techniques and terms you’ll need to know for the pattern you have downloaded.

Button + Buttonhole placement markS Solid lines indi-cate buttonholes. A large open circle is the button symbol and shows placement.

cuttinG lineS Multisize patterns have different cutting lines for each size.

place on fold Bracket This is a grainline marking with arrows pointing to the edge of the pattern. Place on the fold of the fabric so that your finished piece will be twice the size of the pattern piece, without adding a seam.

Grainline The double-ended arrow should be parallel to the lengthwise grain or fold unless specifically marked as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be diagonal.

notcheS Notches are triangle-shaped symbols used for accurately matching seams. Pieces to be joined will have corresponding notches.

dartS Dashed lines and dots mark darts. The dashed lines show where the stitching will be, and the dot shows the position of the dart point (signaling the point, at the end of the dart, where your stitching should end).

pattern dotS Filled circles indicate that a mark needs to be made (often on the right side of the fabric) for placement of elements such as a pocket or a dart point. Mark by punching through the pat-tern paper only, then mark on the fabric through the hole.

SlaSh markS A dashed line (some-times appearing with pattern dots) indicates an area to be slashed. Further instructions for making the slash will be included in the pattern instructions.

pattern SymBolS + markinGSaSSemBlinG full-Size pattern printout1 | When prepar-ing to print the PDF, make sure that you are printing it at 100% and that there is no scaling. Check the settings for page scaling (should be “None”) and check the preview to make sure that you will be printing at full size. Make sure that the box labeled “Auto-Rotate and Center” is unchecked (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using another PDF reader, check for similar settings).2 | To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square should be 2" × 2".3 | To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted margin around each page.4 | The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up the rows and match the dotted lines together so they overlap. Tape the pages together. Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and fol-low the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern.

layout, markinG + cuttinG GuidelineS1 | Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel. 2 | If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting two of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this technique is not appropriate for some fabrics so check the project instructions if you are unsure. 3 | Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be cut “on the fold” are placed on the fold.4 | Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless a crosswise or bias grainline is present. 5 | Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric unless otherwise noted.6 | Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to cut out of your fabric and interfacing.7 | Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use pins to secure the corners as needed.8 | Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.

TesT square2" 2"

ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT

cut 2 XXxx

XL

L

M

S

XS

XLLMSXS

cut on fold


cut 2 XXxx

XL

L

M

S

XS

XLLMSXS

cut on fold


cut 2 XXxx

XL

L

M

S

XS

XLLMSXS

cut on fold


cut 2 XXxx

XL

L

M

S

XS

XLLMSXS

cut on fold


cut 2 XXxxX

L

L

M

S

XS

XLLMSXS

cut on fold


cut 2 XXxx

XL

L

M

S

XS

XLLMSXS

cut on fold


cut 2 XXxx

XL

L

M

S

XS

XLLMSXS

cut on fold


cut 2 XXxx

XL

L

M

S

XS

XLLMSXS

cut on fold

page 5 of 30



page 6 of 27

jacketdraped collar linen

LINE

N JA

CK

ET

SIDE BA

CK (C

)c

ut 2 m

ain

(cu

t 1, cu

t 1 reve

rse)

cu

t 2 linin

g (c

ut 1, c

ut 1 re

verse

)c

ut 2 in

terfa

cin

g (c

ut 1, c

ut 1 re

verse

)2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

cut here for liningcut here for m

ain

LINEN JACKETSIDE FRONT (B)

cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

cut here for lining

cut here for main

LINE

N JA

CK

ET

center front

BAC

K (D)

cu

t 1 ma

in o

n fo

ldc

ut 1 lin

ing

on

fold

cu

t 1 inte

rfac

ing

on

fold

2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18


ain

LINEN JACKETCUFF (G)

cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)cut 2 intefacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

LINEN JACKETSLEEVE (F)

cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18

cut here for lining

cut here for main

LINEN JACKETFRONT (A)

cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

24681012141618

LIN

EN

JA

CK

ET

CO

LLA

R B

AN

D (E

)

cut 1

mai

n

cut 1

inte

rfac

ing

2,4,

6,8,

10,1

2,14

,16,

18

1a 1b 1c 1d

2a 2b 2c 2d

3a 3b 3c 3d

4a 4b 4c 4d

1e 1f

2f2e

3e

4e

3f

1e 1f

2f2e

3e 3f

4f

LINEN JACKETSLEEVE (F)



1b

LINEN JACKETCUFF (G)

cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)cut 2 intefacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

1c 1d



cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)

2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 182b




2c 2d





24681012141618

2d

center front

LINEN JACKETFRONT (A)

cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

2e2e

LIN

EN

JA

CK

ET

CO

LLA

R B

AN

D (E

)

cut 1

mai

n

cur

1 in

terf

acin

g

2,4,

6,8,

10,1

2,14

,16,

18

2f2f

cut here for lining

cut here for main

3b

cut here for lining

cut here for maincut here for liningcut here for m

ain

3c 3d

24681012141618

3d

center front

cu

t 1 inte

rfac

ing

on

fold

3e3e


ain

4a

LINE

N JA

CK

ET

SIDE BA

CK (C

)c

ut 2 m

ain

(cu

t 1, cu

t 1 reve

rse)

cu

t 2 linin

g (c

ut 1, c

ut 1 re

verse

)c

ut 2 in

terfa

cin

g (c

ut 1, c

ut 1 re

verse

)2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

4b


ain

4c 4d

LINE

N JA

CK

ET

BAC

K (D)

cu

t 1 ma

in o

n fo

ldc

ut 1 lin

ing

on

fold

cu

t 1 inte

rfac

ing

on

fold

2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

4e

jacket by - sew daily...linen jacket collar band (e) cut 1 main cut 1 interfacing...

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