japanese alpine news 2013

JAPA

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S Vol.　14 2013

The Japanese Alpine Club Vol. 14 2013

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JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS

Pioneering Expeditions, Notable Ascents & Adventures and Scientific Field Research

Vol. 14 2013

https://johnharlinmedia.com/mountain-clubs/japanese-alpine-club/

T A B L E O F C O N T E N T ST A B L E O F C O N T E N T SJAPANESE ALPINE NEWS

Vol. 14 2013

FEATURE

Unknown Heartlands of China’s Wilderness – Chang Tang Janne Corax… …… 1

SICHUAN SPECIAL

Future Alpine Paradise – Gangga and Kawarori… Tamotsu Nakamura… …… 11

German Minya Konka – First Ascent of Pk 5,910 m… Max Dünßer… …… 19

First ascent of Kameilong 2012, Genyen Massif… D. Anderson & Szu-Ting Yi… …… 26

Rock Temples in Tibetan Buddhists Homelands… Tamotsu Nakamura… …… 30

Tibetan Buddhist Institute in West Sichuan… Hengduan Mountains Club… …… 42

CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS

The Prow of Shiva 2012, Indian Himalaya… Mick Fowler… …… 47

Nima Line: First Ascent of South Pillar of Kyashar… Yasuhiro Hanatani… …… 53

The PLATEAU – North Sikkim… Harish Kapadia… …… 57

Zanskar 2012 – Exploration of Virgin Peaks… Kimikazu Sakamoto… …… 68

Ascent of P6080 (L13): KUAC Zanskar 2012 … Hiroaki Ogihara… …… 82

Ascent of 6,165 m: JAC Students team Zanskar 2012… Taisuke Ohori… …… 87

Bulgalian Karakoram Khane Valley 2012 Phase II… Michail Michailov… …… 91

First ascent of Baimang Xueshan 2012, Yunnan… Chinese party… …… 97

Acuan Massif or Cordillera Rosco, Peru Andes … Antonio G. Bohorquez… … 101

SURVEYS AND CULTURES

Alpinism and Japanese Mountains Culture … Johanna Ficatier… … 108

Glaciers receding in Kangr Garpo, Eastern Tibet… Tatsuo Inoue… … 112

Mountains of Goddess, Damyon in Gorge Country … Tamotsu Nakamura… … 118

Cover photo: Celestial Peak (Pomiu) 5,413 m south face, Siguniang Massif, Sichuan – China (Tamotsu Nakamura)

JAPANESEALPINE NEWSVol. 14 2013

Editor

Tamotsu NakamuraE-mail : [email protected]

Design & Printing

Tokyo Printing Co., Ltd.

Published by:

The Japanese Alpine Club5-4 Yonbancho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102-0081, JapanPhone : 03-3261-4433 Fax : 03-3261-4441E-mail : [email protected] : http://www.jac.or.jp

http://www.jac.or.jp/english/jac_e.htm©2013 The Japanese Alpine Club

JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2013●

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TATSUO (TIM) INOUE

The First Ascent of Lopchin Feng (KG-2) 6,805mAutumn 2009 Expedition to the Kangri Garpo East Mountains, Tibet

Map-1 Climbing route to Lopchin Feng

JANNE CORAX

Unknown Heartlands of Chinaʼs WildernessFour Years of Exploratory Mountaineering in the Chang Tang Plateau

Jeff on his way down from the summit of Jiao Feng

Summit view looking south from Jitanzhoma

● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2013

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Unclimbed Gyalongsum from Jitanzhoma

Kalurung from Jitanzhoma


3

Burog Co and the Zangser Kangri Range

Nadine looking at Kangzhagri, still three day's walk away


4

2007 Kangzhagri – a second attempt, four years later

In 2003 Nadine Saulnier and I crossed the Chang Tang plateau. It was the first time it was ever crossed from the north to the south completely unsupported. It took us 46 days and we almost paid for it with our lives. In a way it was a success, but we had failed to reach the summit of Kangzhagri, arguable the hardest to reach of all 6,000 m peaks. When we in the winter of 2007 got to know other expeditions planned to make an attempt to climb the mountain we decided to give the peak a second try. We knew the “competitors” were going during the drier and more suitable fall season and that had been the reasonable thing to do also for us, but we saw no choice but making an attempt in the middle of the summer, during the season of heavy precipitation. All in order to get there first.

We bought all provisions locally in the small dusty towns in the Qinghai Province and packed our bicycles with 50 days worth food and fuel. We had no interest in using motorized vehicles as we considered it a failure in terms of going by fair means. Also, we doubted we could reach the peak at all if using this setup. A huge, badly planned, heavy Swedish expedition had proven that early in the year and it had gotten hopelessly stuck over 200 kilometers from the peak. When we started our trip from the little town of Huatugou our bikes weighted about 80 – 90 kilos each. As soon as we reached the plateau proper the monsoon weather struck us with full force. Rain, thunderstorms and blizzards became our companions during the whole journey and at one point we didn’ t see the sun for nine consecutive days. Needless to say we couldn’t cycle much. Our steel horses were our pack animals and one of the few alternatives to bring in enough provisions for a venture like this. After we had crossed the Kunlun Shan we decided to leave the bicycles as the terrain got really muddy and tough. We packed our backpacks with food for 15 days and set off for the peak on foot, which was still about 85 km away.

27 days and about 600 km after we had left Huatugou we were finally at the foot of the peak.By incredible luck we had a clear and quite calm morning and our way to the summit was relatively uneventful. We had some encounters with small crevasses, but apart from that it was an easy climb to the summit of one of the world’ s most inaccessible and desolate peaks. It took us about two weeks to get back to civilization again and from there Nadine went home while I continued to Kashgar, the old Silk Route town in Xinjiang.

Dahongliutan Kunlun

After some climbing in the Kongur and Muztagh Ata area I teamed up with Jeff G. and went to the Dahongliutan Kunlun. As acclimatization for higher targets we first summited Sirenshou (6,214 m), a peak south-west of Highway 219. Two days later we climbed another 6,000 m peak close by and were struck by surprise when we found a large military cairn on its summit.Yet some days later we were at the foot of Qierlizuoke Feng (6,802 m), the highest peak in the area. The night before our planned summit day it was snowing heavily. There was a lot of fresh snow on the peaks the following morning and we had to turn back at roughly 6,350 m due to severe avalanche danger. As a small compensation we successfully summited Jiao Feng (6,370 m) two days later, where we escaped being avalanched with small margin.

Biking towards Tibet and some mountains along the road

Jeff left for home and I continued my bike ride towards central Tibet. On the way I hiked to the summit of little Satsum Kang (5,951 m) just beside the road and made a failed attempt on Sirengou I


5

(6,503 m). Also here there was a lot of fresh snow and I found it smart to head down before disaster struck. The highest point I reached was about 6,400 m. Some hours after I had left the peak a small avalanche swept over the route I had been on.I later made a stupid choice of route on Guozha Kangri (6,262 m). Only a dozen vertical meters below the summit I had to turn back due to a very unstable cornice on the summit ridge. It was a humbling as well as disappointing experience to have failed on three out seven targets in a short period of time.

The Toze Kangri Massif

Close to the little settlement Sumxi i met up with three other climbers, also traveling by bicycle. On small roads we made our way towards the Toze Kangri massif in the outskirts of the Chang Tang. As they kept a slow pace and I arrived at the main massif days ahead of them I climbed some small peaks in the area. I was very surprised to find a summit cairn on a little peak (5,796 m) NNW of the main range. When the rest of the gang arrived I summited what probably is the secondary peak in the range with one of the other persons in the group. I say probably as the GPS readings from the summits are very close. This summit we called Toze Kangri SW (6,366 m). Two days later I soloed the highest summit in the Toze Kangri range, the NE peak which measured 6,369 meters by GPS. Yet again two days later I stood on Toze Kangri Pyramid (6,029 m), a smaller peak in the west part of the range.I had plans for more peaks in the area, but after an accident with involving gasoline and food I had to get back to civilization a.s.a.p. The following month I crossed the Gangdise range and made my way to Lhasa, where I also spent New Year. The winter was spent trekking smaller peaks close to Lhasa.

Winter and early spring climbing in central Tibet

In early 2008 I made an unsuccessful new route attempt on Kaluxung (6,674 m). Fierce winter winds almost blew me off the summit ridge and I had to turn back about 100 meters shy of the summit. In equally violent winds I managed to make it to the summit of Jitanzhoma (6,028 m) a peak in the outskirts of the Noijin Kangsang massif. After the riots in Lhasa in March it was very hard to travel freely in Tibet, but I made it to Pulha Ri, a 6,424 meter peak in the western parts of the Lhakoi Kangri Range. The peak wasn’t difficult, but frozen waterfalls in the gorges leading to the peak made the expedition demanding and as usual during the cold months the winds were strong and unpredictable. On summit day there was a break though and I had wonderful views of the high Himalaya and it was a great feeling to enjoy the scenery showing six of the world’s 8,000 meter peaks in splendid sunshine.

A long Chang Tang traverse again

My journey had taken me to Golmud in the Qinghai province and in early summer of 2008 I met up with Nadine Saulnier and M. A. We equipped ourselves with provisions for 60 days and once again we were heading into the wild, desolate and barren Chang Tang Plateau. Oddly enough the weather was completely different from the year before and we didn’t have more than half a dozen snowy days. On our journey towards the interior of the plateau I was suffering not having the time to climb anything in the Ayalik, Qimantag and Fujian Ranges and when we had crossed the Kunlun and passed on the southern side of Ulugh Muztagh (6,973 m) it was almost painful passing it without giving it a closer look. After 36 days in the sole company of wolves, wild yaks and chirus we finally arrived at our first target of the journey – Kukuxili, or Songzhiling (6,388 m).


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On summit day the weather was very bad and at times we had visibility down to only a meter. The peak’s location and our small supplies of food made us push on regardless of the fact that we had no idea where the summit was located, nor what the rest of the climb looked like. With the help of GPS coordinates we finally found the highest point of the peak where we placed a horn of a chiru as a tribute to these beautiful animals of the plateau. As our plan was to cross the plateau we went dead south from here towards our next goal.

Burog Co and Purog Kangri

Nine days after we had left Kukuxili, on day 47 of our journey, we arrived at Burog Co, a large beautiful lake at roughly 5,200 m. On both sides of the lake large glaciers on the mountain ranges are feeding the lake with melt water and we aimed for the west side as our plan was to make an attempt on Purog Kangri. The peak was an easy walk so if we may have been a little bit disappointed by the ease of the climb the views made up for it. They were absolutely astonishing and it’s for sure one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to. It’s also the only place where I have seen larger mammals over 6,000 m. A group of chirus had escaped the “summer heat of the lowlands” and were basking in the sun on 6,150 m. When we finally reached Gomo Co on day 53 we were down to our last meals and we gratefully accepted some rice and tea from the first nomads we met close to the lake shore. They were the first human beings we had seen for 39 consecutive days. The total length of this traverse was roughly 1100km and took 55 days.

2010 – Altun / Arjin Shan

In the fall of 2010 I once again arrived in Huatugou and I was happy to be back for another expedition in the highlands of western China. As usual my bicycle was my pack animal, porter or mula. My company this time was Lars B. and we first focused on Aleke Tag (6,080 m), which sometimes also goes under the name Akato or Yusupu Aleketag. The mountain is located in a very dry area and I was surprised that the glacier system was as large as it was. The views from the summit were splendid with the Taklamakan Desert in the north and the Kunlun Shan with all its sub-ranges and the eerie emptiness of Chang Tang in the south.

Qimantag Shan is a small obscure range at the northern shores of one of the world’s largest saline lakes, Ayakkum Hu. Our plan was to make a first ascent of the highest peak in the range, but due to really bad weather we failed with the navigation. We reached a peak which probably is the second or third highest in the group. Its elevation measured from the summit is 5,551 meters.

After crossing the incredibly muddy Fujian Shankou (a mountain pass of approximately 5,100 meters) we went for a lonely peak which doesn’t really belong to any of the more distinct ranges in the area. Fujian Feng (5,866 m) was climbed quickly and Lars joked that it almost felt like a rest day to climb a 6,000 m peak, compared to hauling the heavy bikes through mud and ice cold rivers day after day. I concurred.

Usually, when on expeditions like the described, one can’t get close enough to climb the peak from where the bikes have to be left behind. It had always been some days walking from the last “bike camp” to the Mountain “BC” . When we arrived at the east end of the Ayalik range we were surprised to find out that we only had 4 km to the summit of “Ayalik East” (5,952 m) from there we had had to stop hauling the bikes.We were very lucky in terms of timing and just when we arrived at the summit a fierce wind started


7

to pound us. With mild frost bite on two fingers we made it back to the tents.

We traveled along the full length of the Ayalik Range until we arrived at the foot of the highest summit. It was the trickiest of the climbs on the journey and avalanche prone slopes, unstable corniced ridges and gullies with massive rock fall almost made me turn back. Finally I reached the summit, which actually is a huge boulder on top of a narrow ridge. I was happy to reach the 6,167 meter high summit, but also a bit sad as I knew this was the last summit on that year’s trip.

Central Kunlun 2011 – 2012

In 2011 M. and I completely failed to get anywhere in the maze of gorges and sandy areas in the foothills on the northern side of the Kunlun Shan. We went back in 2012 and the first target was the lonely and highly coveted peak Ak Tag. The peak marks the highest point in between Ulugh Muztagh and Qong Muztagh and a few expeditions have tried to reach its 6,758 m high summit. Most had stranded very early as the gorges leading to the plateau are very hard to navigate and also dangerous due to flash floods and rock fall.

About a fortnight after the start from Kashgar we finally reached the lake some 30 km far from the peak. M. had decided to go home and I was all of a sudden alone on the project. A blizzard struck on 5,800 m and I had to ride it out for 48 hours. As there was a lot of fresh snow I had to resort to some shorter passages of rock climbing in order to stay safe from avalanches. The northern side of Ak Tag is a 700 m almost vertical wall, but the southern side holds no technical obstacles apart from a small vertical ice wall just below the summit ridge. In wonderful weather I reached the summit and I once again had the fantastic opportunity to gaze out from yet another previously unclimbed summit.The original plan had been to continue to other virgin summits in the area, but as I my partner had bailed out I found no other solution than turning back to civilization. I comforted myself with the fact that the mountains would be there for a very long time to come and I promised to return as soon as I got the opportunity.


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Nam

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nam

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Locatio

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ltN

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2007

Kangzh

agri

6,3231,288

35°33'25"89°34'40"

Sum

mit

Koskulak

7,0289,68

38°13'54"75°06'45"

FailureE

ye prob

lems/contact lenses

Sire

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6,2149,64

35°49'33"79°13'42"

Sum

mit

“Military P

eak”6,207

35°49'28"79°12'34"

Sum

mit

Qierlizuoke Feng

6,8021,476

36°01'18"79°27'38"

FailureA

valanche danger

Jia

o F

eng

6,37035°57'54"

79°26'41"S

umm

itS

atsum K

ang5,951

34°41'11"80°12'28"

Sum

mit

Sirengou I

Dong Luokezong S

han6,535

1,24334°47'14"

80°17'21"Failure

Und

er equip

ped

/avalanche danger

Gouzha K

angri6,262

34°30'41"80°20'52"

FailureC

ornice danger

P5796

5,79634°58'53"

82°07'15"S

umm

itTo

ze K

angri S

W6,366

34°44'17"82°19'51"

Sum

mit

Toze

Kangri

6,3691,197

34°46'32"82°21'52"

Sum

mit

Toze

Kangri P

yram

id6,029

34°41'44"82°12'56"

Sum

mit

2008

Many trekking p

eaks including M

indruk S

ari, Druk Z

huk, Gyap

helri, Bum

pari

Kaluxung

Kalurong

6,6741,458

28°51'02"90°12'25"

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28°51'40"90°08'09"

Sum

mit

Pulh

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1,19828°58'01"

87°16'40"S

umm

itK

ukush

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ongshiling6,388

1,34235°39'48"

85°37'03"S

umm

itP

uro

g K

angri

6,4361,054

34°24'45"85°38'00"

Sum

mit

2010

Ale

ke**

Akato or Yusup

u Aleke Tagh

6,0801,923

38°11'24"88°54'30"

Sum

mit

“Qim

anta

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5,55137*45'55

89*19'12S

umm

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5,86637*25'29

88*07'29S

umm

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5,95237*23'12

87°55'18S

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1,72837°23'18"

87°36'24"S

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2012

Ak Ta

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Sichaxuefeng

6,7581,920

36°43'27"84°36'06"

Sum

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Peaks in b

old

lette

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est knowled

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**So called

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Altitud

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by G

PS

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the official peaklists (Jurgalski, d

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aizlish works)

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lists

Coord

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PS

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some are from

Google E

arth (these should b

e correct within a few

meters)


9

Summit view looking east from Ak Tag Pulha Ri

Typical campsite and Nadine in Tula Valley Summit view from Jiao Feng

KaluxungSummit ridge and huge cornice on Kaluxung


10

Burog Co (lake) and the Zangser Kangri Massif seen from high on Purog Kangri

Ak Tag and a bright blue lake

First sight of Kukushili after 35 days in the wilderness Crossing a muddy river close to Gomo Co

Janne in the middle of nowhere on the Chang Tang after a night of snow

Typical campsite and Lars in the Ayalik Range


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Political situation in Tibet is uncertain and sensitive. Since no foreigners are allowed to enter remote areas of my field, eastern Tibet, in 2012, instead I organized an elderly survey team from the Hengduan Mountains Club (Tom Nakamura, Tsuyoshi Nagai, Tadao Shintani) to visit West Sichuan Highlands and Yunnan from late September to late October.

The main objective was to photograph, map out and identify peaks of the Gangga massif and least-known Kawarori. The Gangga massif is just south of Ganzi town and the Yalong Jiang, a northernmost extention of the Shaluli Shan range. Kawarori is a sacred mountain of the Gongkara Shan range which is located east of the Gangga massif and Yalong Jiang, northwest of the Daxue Shan range in the West Sichuan Highlands. The Yalong Jiang is one of the large tributary of the Yangtze River (Chang Jiang). Reconnaissance of the Gangga massif was made only one time in 2005 by a Japanese party from the Nagano Prefecture. They were unable to bring back useful and informative record.

The Alps of Tibet, mountains in eastern Tibet, is the final frontier in the greater ranges of the world. About 260 peaks over 6,000 meters high remain untrodden in Nyainqentanglha East, Kangri Garpo and Gorge Country. On the contrary, unclimbed mountains exceeding 6,000 meters are only more or less 10 summits in the West Sichuan Highlands, a region of Tibetan inhabitants too.

TAMOTSU (TOM) NAKAMURA

Future Alpine Paradise, Sichuan 2012Alluring Rock Peaks “Gangga Massif”

Unclimbed Sacred & Forbidden Mountains “Kawarori”

Gangga I Group: Central Peak 5,670 m (left), North Peak 5,650 m (right) seen from Ganzi


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Nevertheless, if you look into and focus on peaks lower than 6,000 meters, you will come across many fascinating and challenging peaks that attract and enchant climbers seeking for unfrequented targets. Climbers have been rushing to rock peaks in the Qonglai Mountains of now popular Siguniang and currently several climbers have started an attempt on alluring rock peaks in the Genyen massif north of the Litang Plateau. However the Gangga massif and Gongkala Shan are still behind climbers’ attention. The Gangga massif is not a large mountains group and heights is 5,300 – 5,600 meters, but provides fantastic rock peaks. Kawaroni are holy mountains guarded by Tibetan monks and villagers.

Our team arrived at Chengdu on the 26th September. Sichuan Earth Expedition Inc. arranged for our trip as usually and Zhang Jiyue joined the team. We left Chengdu for the mountains on the 28th September. We followed a newly-built highway Chengu-Xichang making a detour of Erlanshan Tunnel passage. Acceleration of highways construction in West China is amazing. We left the highway at Ximien and drove northward along Dadu River, and then crossed a pass Xuemenkan 3,948 m down to Kangding new town. The pass divides Minya Konka massif to southwest and Lamoshe massif to northeast.


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I must mention two unusual factors of our survey trip. One is an extraordinarily bad weather in late September to mid October and the other is a political situation. During our travel in two weeks, only one and a half days were considerably fine weather (but not perfect blue sky) though I could take advantages of a narrow chance to photograph the mountains necessary for peaks identification. We stayed at Ganzi town only three nights during the good weather. On the 30th September we ascended to a pass Lazika 4,000 meters of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway for taking a panorama view of the Gangga and Kawarori. From this pass Erich Teichman viewed Kawarori in 1918. On the 1st October we enter a valley just south of Ganzi town and ascended to a high pass Zhuodana 4,820 meters leading to Baiyu County for reconnaissance of the central part of the massif. Remaining one week were spent for visiting interesting places including a village with famous stone towers in Danba County and Mt. Siguniang. It was a keen interest in going to the largest monastery and school with 20,000 monks and students in Seda, but I regret that there was no time.

Panorama picture of the central part of the Gangga Massif east face, Shaluli Shan

Eastern Rim of Gangga Massif: 5,690 m (left) and 5,241 m (center, Russian map 5,641 m). The top of 5,567 m is sern in between tow peaks. East face, Photo by Takashi Shiro


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The other problem was a restriction imposed on foreigners due to political uncertainty in the region. The areas of Ganzi and adjacent counties were closed to foreigners in principles since spring of 2012 when Tibetan monks’ fire suicide happened. As after the spring, fire suicide took place intermittently, the authorities became nervous about foreign visitors. Under such circumstances we could manage to travel through the officially restricted areas with no difficulty and without any problem thanking to Jiyue᾽s careful attention. We met only a couple of westerners and no Japanese throughout the trip. We returned to Chengdu on the 10th October and flew to Kunming on the 11th for traveling south Yunnan and north Laos to retrace footsteps of the 19th century French Mekong River expedition. This is another story.

Mountains of Kawarori were first reported by an early British consular officer and explorer, Eric Teichman who traveled through the highlands in 1918.

[Passing Joro, the trail tops a rise and emerges on to rolling grass-lands now patched with snow. Here we saw many gazelle. A long pull up hill with occasional short descent brought us to the top of the She Chu – Yalung Divide, only about 13,000 feet high. As one tops the last rise, the great range beyond the Yalung bursts into view, a glittering mass of ice, snow and rock, culminating in the snow-clad mass of Kawalori ( “ peak of everlasting snow” ), a sacred mountain of Nyarong, and one of the highest peaks in Eastern Tibet. This great range is here pieced by the Yalung, and glimpses of it are occasionally caught from the She Chu valley below Driwo.]


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(Travels of a Conslar Officer in Eastern Tibet Erich Teichman, Cambridge 1922) Teichman᾽s observation is accurate.

Kawarori of the Gongkara Shan range is located 30 km southeast of Garzi. Two principal peaks Kawarori-I 5,992 m and Kawarani-II 5,928 m remain unclimbed. Local Tibetan pronounce it “Kawaruori” but in this article “Kawarori” applies. Reconnaissance was first conducted by a Japanese party, Yamanashi Mountaineering Federation in autumn of 1999 and then a British party first attempted on climbing in autumn of 2005. They set up the second camp at 4,800 m. However hostile monks of a lamasery forcibly opposed the British to continue climbing for religious reason because of Holy Mountains. They could not help to abandon the attempt. Another British party came to Kawarori in 2007 but a climbing permit could not be obtained.

The Tohoku University Alpine Club planned to climb Kawarori in summer of 2011 in a hope that a climbing permit would be issued. After getting an official permit of the Sichuan Mountaineering Association, they left Japan on 24th July. To their great upset, however, their plan was turned down by a senior official, Deputy Director of Sports Administrative Department, Garze Tibetans Autonomous Region at Kangding. He excused that Kawarori was holy mountains to local Tibetans and would oppose anyone to climb the mountains. Supposedly there might have been the other reason of recent sensitive and uncertain situation as monks’ fire suicides, though the official was silent. In fact the public security bureau (PSB) was cautious and nervous about foreigners to contact local villagers in Khamba territory.


16

Gangga I Group: (from left) Main 5,688 m, Central ,5670 m, North 5,650 m east faceA flock of flying hawks are seen.

Gangga: (from left) 5,429 m, 5,400 m, 5,286 m northeast face


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Gangga 5,429 m (left) 5,286 m (right) east face

Gangga 5,241 m east face

Gangga Peak 5,241 m north face

Gangga Pk 5,318 m west of Gangga I NE face

Gangga II 5,582 m east facce

Gangga (left) 5,567 m (right) 5,690 m W face


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Kawarori I 5,992 m north face (Takao Ohe)

Chunglu village stone towers in Danba (1)

Kawarori II 5,928 m north face

Chungle village stone tower in Danba (2)

Kawarori I 5,992 m (left), Kawarori II 5,928 m (center), Pk 5,568 m (right)


19

Nobody is packing Risotto or any other rice dish. It᾽s probably because we have been acclimatising in a valley in China for two days and have eaten rice almost twice a day. We are packing our rucksacks for our summit attempt of an unclimbed peak in the Gonga Shan Massive in Sichuan. We have been planning this expedition, which marks the end of our time in the cadre of the German Alpine Club, for half a year, and now we have deposited our climbing gear at 5,000 m and have been acclimatising well for the past two weeks. Finally we are on our way! However, our high altitude food for the next few nights will certainly not be rice but dehydrated pasta.

It is the beginning of October and autumn is slowly moving in, the needles of the larches further down the valley have already turned yellow and temperatures have dropped below zero; but the conditions on the mountain are good. There has been little snowfall over the past few days and we can see that the face further up is covered in ice. The weather forecast, which we receive from Innsbruck, also does not predict any precipitation for the next few days, just a bit of wind.

From our base camp at 4,000 m we climb up a long valley via moraines and big boulders until we get to the beginning of the glacier at 5,000 m, where we have set up our Advanced Base Camp. We stay another night here observing the face and looking for an objectively safe line for our ascent. Our group consist of our expedition doctor, Uli Steiner, David Göttler, our coach Mirko und me. Dario, Felix and Reini are attempting a ridge on another mountain.

After a calm night the wind picks up again in the morning when we ascend over a heavily crevassed glacier to a Col at 5,500 m. This marks the start of the West Face, which we are attempting. While we are digging up a platform for our tents just below the overhanging wall, the wind is reaching such a force that it is almost impossible to see without our skiing goggles. We pitch our tents using Abalakovs and pitons to protect them from being blown away. After we have melted two litres of water and have eaten a bag of high altitude food, we are trying to sleep to be ready to start at the crack of dawn the next morning. We are still worried about the weather and are hoping that the wind will abate.

At four o’ clock in the morning our tents finally stop flapping and we are slowly beginning to melt snow. Just after dawn I climb up the first pitch, which did not look very inviting from down below but is actually good to climb in the compressed snow. After we have crossed a flat area we reach a snow and ice gully, which we climb up for about 300 metres until we get to a pretty broken area that we have to traverse over to the right.

Now the terrain is getting steeper and we follow the icy line, which we had identified from lower down, reaching up to about 50 metres below the summit. The ice is getting thinner and placing ice screws is getting increasingly difficult. At the belay points we use pitons, which we leave there for our abseil later on. Clouds are slowly starting to move in from the West and the wind is picking up again.

MAX DÜNßER

DAV Expedition October 2012 to Sichuan―First Ascent of Pk 5,910m in Minya Konka (Gongga Shan) Massif―(Maps and Panorama Pictures are supplemented by Tom Nakamura)


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About 100 metres below the summit my ice tool breaks after I have found firm ice underneath the thin sheet of ice and fortunately I can place an ice screw there. David is leading the next pitch in worsening weather. The last pitch is a demanding rock climb, which we have to manage before we reach the 40 cm – wide summit (5,950 m) at 1pm on October 17 hoisting Tibetan prayer flags.

After having taken our summit photos we immediately start to abseil as the weather is further deteriorating and we know from our ascent that it is almost impossible to place ice screws through the thin sheets of ice. We are only able to place two ice screws over a length of 500 m; at the belay points we use pitons and thin cord, which we wrap around icy boulders. We are abseiling in heavy snowfall and strong winds for about five hours before we reach our camp at 5,500 m, where we spend the night. The next morning everything is covered in a white blanket and the sun is beautifully shining on the snow-covered peaks. Once more, we have to concentrate as the crevasses are now covered in snow and difficult to identify. We make our way down the glacier in a zigzag until we reach ABC, where Dario, Felix and Reini are welcoming us.

From there we continue down to base camp and are actually looking forward to our fix of rice dishes from our cook Fang.

Itinerary (2012)

30.09.2012 – 1 Flight München – Amsterdam – Chengdu 01.10.2012 – 2 Arrival Chengdu02.10.2012 – 3 Bus drive from Chengdu over Kangding to Laoyulin03.10.2012 – 4 Walk to Basecamp, 4,000 m, ca 5h04-06.10.2012 – 5 – 7 BC Rest / Acclimatisation07.10.2012 – 8 BC – ABC, 4600m – BC08.10.2012 – 9 BC – Depot in front of glacier – BC09.10.2012 –10 BC – ABC I, 4,600 m10.10.2012 – 11 ABC – ABC II, 5,050 m – ABC, Check out and transport of equipment11.10.2012 – 12 ABC – ABC II – BC, Transport of Equipment12-13.10.2012 13 – 14 BC Rest / Acclimatisation14.10.2012 – 15 BC – ABC II, 4h Felix cause of sickness in BC15.10.2012 – 16 Team I Reini / DarioCheck out Slab to Eastridge, ABC II Team II Uli, David, Mirko,

Max ABC II to Lager 1, 5450m16.10.2012 – 17 Team I Reini/Dario/Felix Eastridge ca 1/2 the way, Cause of Felix` sickness back to

ABCII Team II First ascent over new route “Nubiline” on Melycr Shan 5,910 m back to camp 1

17.10.2012 – 18 in BC18-19.10.2012 – 19 – 20 BC Rest / Acclimatisation20.10.2012 – 21 BC Rest / Acclimatisation Uli, David, Felix Team III Dario, Reini, Mirko BC – ABC

II21.10.2012 – 22 BC Rest / Acclimatisation Uli, David, Felix Team III day 1 Eastridge 200Hm below

summit22.10.2012 – 23 BC Rest / Acclimatisation Uli, David, Felix Team III Tag 2 Estridge to summit

“Stiffler᾽s Mum” back to ABC II23.10.2012 – 24 Uli, David, Felix BC – ABC II Team III ABC II – BC24.10.2012 – 25 Team III Ruhetag BC Try Iceline by Felix and David, Cause of Felix sickness back

to BC25.10.2012 – 26 BC Restday/ Acclimatisation


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26.10.2012 – 27 BC Uli, Felix Team BC – ABC III27.10.2012 – 28 Felix, Uli, BC – Depot – BC Trasport of equipement back to BC rest of team: Frist

ascent Iceline “You happy – we happy” WI5, 6 SL, meets in the midle the line of “Nubiline” , here descent cause of storm

28.10.2012 – 29 Team back to BC29.10.2012 – 30 Uli, Felix Trekking day 1 arround Minya Konga Massiv rest of Team packing in BC30.10.2012 – 31 Uli, Felix Trekking day 2 arround Minya Konga Massiv rest of Team packing in BC31.10.2012 – 32 Uli, Felix nach Kangding rest of Team BC – Kangding01.11.2012 – 33 Kangding – Chengdu by Bus02.11.2012 – 34 Chegndu, Aircargo03.11.2012 – 35 Flight back home Chegndu – Amsterdam – München

German DAV October 2012 Minya Konka Massif Pk 5,910 m climbing route


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Approach to Pk 5910m from BC East Ridge climbing (1)

East Ridge climbing (2)

Expedition members

East Ridge climbing (3)


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TATSUO (TIM) INOUE



In the fall of 2012 a Taiwanese/American expedition spent a month in the remote Shaluli Shan Range of Western Sichuan, China and came away with the first ascent of Kemailong (5,870 m), a striking granite tower. On October 1, 2012, Szu-ting Yi and Dave Anderson climbed the 3,500 ft south ridge to the summit of Kemailong and rappelled the east face returning to their high camp in an 18-hour push.

This was American Dave Anderson third expedition to the region in the last six years. In October 2006, he and Canadian Sarah Heuniken summited Sachun (5,716 m) a “Patagonia-like” spire and while American teammates Molly and Andy Tyson climbed Purba (5,685 m). Later that fall, Charlie Fowler and Christine Boscoff went missing in the same region. After an intense search, their bodies were discovered in avalanche debris near the base of the area᾽s highest peak Mount Genyen 20,354ft.

In August of 2011, Anderson returned with Szu-ting Yi and Eric Salazar to attempt an unnamed 5,700 m pyramid shaped mountain whose base was covered with tens of thousands of hand placed rock cairns. The significance of the peak and the rock cairns had been lost over time and was not even known by the monks at the nearby 600 year old Lengu Monastery. During their attempt on the north-east ridge of the peak 5,700 m on August 27th, Szu-ting Yi, suffered breathing problems due to a respiratory infection, contracted earlier in the trip. The trio retreated back to base camp and were met by several stern looking monks of the Lengu Monastery. The reason for the monks’ displeasure was not that the peak the climbers were attempting was considered scared. The reason was much more practical. After Fowler and Boscoff disappeared in 2006 the local Chinese authorities were suspicious of the Tibetan monks in general and used the tragedy of the missing climbers to inspect the monastery and search through the monks’ personal belongings.

“The monks just did not want anything bad to happen to us while we were visiting the Genyen region that would cause the Chinese authorities to come in and bother them,” Anderson summarized. The monks were happy to have foreigners visit the monastery, take pictures and trek in the valley, but climbing was out. Initially, Anderson and his team told the monks they were just trekking, but the monks saw the ice axes and other climbing gear and questioned the climbers further. “Being vague about our plans in the Genyen region was one thing, but outright lying to the monks was something that none of us wanted to partake in” , Salazar commented. In addition, the monks voiced their displeasure with fixed protected and ropes left on Sachun during a 2006 Austrian Expedition.

Anderson, Yi and Salazar opted to leave the valley and head to northeast region of the Shaluli Shan Range to attempt another peak called Crown Mountain (5,600 m). After a rugged 4 wheel drive they established a base camp among the nomadic yak herders living below the peak. Crown Mountain which is 6 miles south east of Xiashe Peak (first climbed in 2005, by New Zealanders Pat Deavoll and Karen McNeill). They spent the next day establishing a high camp on the north side of Crown Mountain. Unlike the solid granite Genyen Massif the rock in this area of the Shulai Shan is composed of extremely loose decomposing rock. Anderson, Yi and Salazar chose to ascend the west ridge and reached the summit on Sept 3, 2012 after 7 hours from their high camp (IV, 5.6, 50 degrees).

DAVID ANDERSON & SZU-TING YI

First Ascent of Kameilong 5,873 m – Genyen MassifShaluli Shan in West Sichuan Highlands


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In 2012 Yi and Anderson returned with the intension of climbing Kemailong 5,870 m located several valleys to the north-east of Mt Genyen. The expedition almost ground to halt in the town of Lamaya when the horse packers discovered Anderson᾽s and Yi᾽s climbing equipment. After a flurry of intense conversations Yi translated, “Before the bodies of Fowler and Boscoff were discovered on the slopes of Genyen, the Chinese authorities had imprisoned several of the horse packers merely on the suspicion that they had something to with the Americans disappearance. As a result the horse packers were still fearful of helping climbers. To resolve the issue, Yi and Anderson wrote, signed and finger printed a “waiver” releasing the horse packers from any responsibility if they failed to return from Kemailong. Charlie Fowler traveled lightly during his many trips to the Tibetan regions of China, learned to speak Tibetan, respected the different cultures, always hired local people and the last thing he would have wanted would be for these same people to be hassled by the authorities, but unfortunately that is exactly what did happen. I believe, as climbers, we have to be aware of how the consequences of our actions can negatively affect the native people, because after all we are just visitors.” Anderson concluded.

During the approach into the mountains Anderson was amazed at the changes that had taken place to the region in the last six years. New roads and electrical lines now crisscrossed the remote region which had previously been the domain of only nomads and their yaks. At their base camp below Kemailong, Yi and and Anderson were challenged by poor weather to even see a way up the lower section of the peak. Eventually they began shuttling loads up a grueling 1,000 m long boulder field on south side of Kemailong and established a high camp at 5,000 m. On October 1, a midnight weather check revealed stars instead of the usual fog and hail. At 7:00 am Anderson and Yi climbed three mixed pitches to gain the saddle on the south ridge of Kemailong. After three moderate fifth class pitches the terrain became less steep and Anderson and Yi unroped for 300 meters of easy fifth class climbing. As the ridge narrowed the climbing became more challenging, but the featured rock kept difficulty under 5.10 for the next three pitches. The rock continued to improve and the team was able to simul-climb 400 m of perfect rock. More mixed pitches led to a false summit with the true summit being several rope lengths away past a series of rock gendarmes plastered with snow. The final pitch started with a stout overhanging hand crack (5.10) before easing to unprotected face climbing and the summit. By the time Anderson and Yi summited at 5:00pm, the weather had deteriorated. Gusty winds, hail and electrical discharges zapped the climbers as they scrambled to get off the summit. Their original plan was to descend the south ridge, but with all their metal equipment still humming from the electrical storm, Yi and Anderson decided to bail off the unknown steep 800m east face. The weather continued to deteriorate with heavy snow compounding the difficulty of finding crack systems to set up rappel anchors. Finally after leaving most of their rack during 13 rappels Anderson and Yi stumbled back to their high camp at 1:00am. The next morning, with the weather worsening, they headed down to their base camp, packed up, and hiked out of the Shaluli Shan Range as the winter season moved in.

The American / Taiwanese team named their route Joining Hands (V, 5.10, M5) for the logistical and climbing skills Anderson and Yi brought with them to the mountains that when combined allowed them to succeed in the Shaluli Shan.

“It is an interesting time to be exploring China᾽s Western mountains,” Anderson commented. “Presently, the Chinese government is pouring money into Western Sichuan᾽s infrastructure. Improved roads and new airports have dramatically shortened the approach time. While physical logistics of accessing these areas have gotten easier, weaving through the bureaucracy, nationalism,


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social and cultural diversity of China remains challenging.”

The climbers would like to thank Planet Granite, the AAC Lyman Spitzer Alpine Grant, Patagonia, Evolve and NOLS for making the expedition possible.


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Kameilong 5873m East Face, Photo: Tomas Obtulovic

Kameilong climbing route


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TATSUO (TIM) INOUE



First of all, I express my sincere thanks to Kenzo Okawa, Dylan Johnson, Yao Liu, Naoki Ohuchi, Hiroo Yonezawa and Shihoko Nomura for their kindnesses and generosities to have furnished me with their records, knowledges and invaluable pictures.

It was in summer of 1998 that I was overwhelmingly touched by the grandeur of rock peaks on the watershed sharing the Changping Valley and Shuangqiao Valley of the Mt. Siguniang National Reserve, Qonglai Mountains. The first glimpse of a panorama of towering rocky peaks seen to the west from a high pass 4,644 m dividing the Changping Valley and Bipeng Valley deeply touched and impressed me. These peaks are of Daogou–Chubu group. In recent years many climbers have been rushing to the mountain area for attempting challenging rock peaks. To my best knowledge a climbing chronicle has been followed and renewed by the American Alpine Journal. This article does not deal with the climbing chronicle. Part I: Peaks identification of the core part on the watershed sharing Changping Gou and Shangqiang Gou is shown on panorama pictures.

Parr II: Notable first ascents of the Daogou-Chibu group are introduced using route line pictures. Records 2010 and 2012 of a Japanese party of Y. Yonezawa are included.

Part III: A record 2012 of a distinguished Chinese climber, Yao Liu Sichuan University.


Rock Temples of Tibetan Buddhists HomelandsDaogou–Chibu Group of Mt. Siguniang Massif, Qonglai Mountains, Sichuan


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Part I (1)


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Part I (2)


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Part I (3)

Photo: Shihoko Nomura

Happy 2013　Photo: Kenzo Okaue Danba Beauty　Photo: Kenzo Okaue


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Part II (1)


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Part II (2)


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Part II (3)


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Dear Tom Nakamura,

I received your parcel today. Thank you for the Japanese Alpine News. There are so good articles. I can tell how much work you did for it.

I read the article about the Niuxin Shan climbing. It reminds me that two local Tibetan guides Tashi and Yangxinyong and I made a new route on the south face of Niuxin Shan in Shuangqiao valley just few days after a Japanese team (September 15, 2010: Japanese Alpine News vol. 12, 2011). It was 600 meters, 14 pitches in two days climbing. We had to bivy for one night. And also last September (2012), Tashi and · I make the first ascent on an unnamed peak in Xiaogou valley which is in the Shuangqiaogou. The climbing route is 360 meters, we climbed in 9 pitches and we only slept in our BD double fly bivy (we didn't bring the portalege because it was too heavy) since we met a big heavy storm.

About Se'erdenpu, my friend and · I started to bolt a 1,000 meters vertical route on the southeast face. I think we are going to finish it in this fall (2013).I think I will write to you very often because I want to let you know what happen on the mountain range in Sichuan or another places, so that they might be helpful for the Japanese Alpine news. Please tell me if you need any help in here. I look forward to seeing you in Chengdu this year

Sincerely,

Daliu (Yao Liu) January 10, 2013

Part III (1)

Niuxin Shan south face (1)

Yao Liu mode the first ascent of Yangmolong 6,060 m with American Climbers in 2011.

Niuxin Shan south face (2) Niuxin Shan south face (3)


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Niuxin Shan south face (4) Niuxin Shan south face (5)

Se’erdengpu 5,592 m SE face (right), Potala Shan 5,428 m (left) S face

Part III (2)

Xia Gou unnamed peak (1) Xia Gou unnamed peak (2) Xia Gou unnamed peak (3)

Danba Beauty　Photo: Kenzo Okaue


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TATSUO (TIM) INOUE



In 1980, Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok founded Serthar Institute, known as Larung Gar Buddhist Academy, in the Larung Valley near Sêrtar town, Garzê Prefecture, Sichuan Province. See the map below. The purpose of the Institute has been to provide an ecumenical training in Tibetan Buddhism and to meet the need for renewal of meditation and scholarship all over Tibet in the wake of China’s Cultural Revolution of 1966 – 76.

HENGDUAN MOUNTAINS CLUB

Forbidden & Spectacular Serthar Buddhist InstituteTibetan Buddhism Largest Academy beyond Snowy Mountains in Sichuan


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The institute is close to the fascinating mountain ranges being situated in the northeast of Chola Shan, north of Gangga massif of Shaluli Shan, Kawarori massif of Gongkala Shan, and northwest of the northern rim of Daxue Shan range.

Despite its remote location, it grew from a handful of disciples gathering in Khenpo’s home to be one of the largest and most influential centers for the study of Tibetan Buddhism in the world, numbering to nearly 10,000 monks, nuns, and lay disciples by the year 2000.

Overall, the student body of Serthar Institute was made up of monks, nuns, lay “vow-holders” of both Tibetan and Chinese origins, and tantric practitioners. They studied under four major religious divisions in the Institute: Ngarig Nangten Lobling, International Religious Committee, Pema Khandro Duling Nunnery, and Lektso Charbeb Ling. Ngarig Nangten Lobling consisted of 2,500 Tibetan monks. Lektso Charbeb Ling is the section that trained over 1,000 lay Tibetan “vow-holders” and tantric practitioners from Sêrtar and other regions of Tibet.

Pema Khandro Duling Nunnery was the home for study to approximately 3,500 – 4,000 nuns from all regions of Tibet. More than half of those who came to Serthar were women and the curriculum allowed nuns to achieve a coveted Khenpo degree for the first time in Tibetan history. Entry into the relatively small number of nunneries that exist in other areas of Tibet is limited, but Serthar was open to virtually anyone who genuinely sought to become a student of Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok’s ecumenical vision. Khenpo’s niece, Jetsunma Mumso, was recognized as a tulku and heads the order of nuns. The term is descriptive of certain teachers in Tibet who are thought to reincarnate over a number of generations.

Roughly ten percent of the nearly 10,000 students attending Serthar were ethnic Han people. They attended separate classes taught in Standard Chinese while larger classes were taught in Standard Tibetan. The International Religious Committee oversaw 1,000 disciples from regions of the People’s Republic of China and students from other Asian countries.

Serthar Institute has operated with a standing executive committee of seven learned lamas, but major decisions were confirmed and implemented only after consultation with Khenpo Jigme Phuntsok. Serthar Institute has been home to over 500 khenpos – holders of Bachelor's degrees in divinity – and widely renowned for the high quality of both its religious and secular education. English, Chinese, and Tibetan languages and modern computer studies have been taught alongside traditional non-sectarian Buddhist curriculum. The photos are shown below.


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On Top of the World: The New MillenniumRichard SaleEberhard JurgalskiGeorge Rodway

ISBN 978-0-9571732-0-0280 × 220mm248 pages with 240 colour photos, 25 archival black & white images and 21 route maps.Published 1 May 2012

This new book looks at the development of climbing on the world’s highest mountains – the 14 whose summits stand above the 8000 metre contour. Though concentrating on the new millennium, from 2000 to 2011, with an epilogue on 2011, the book also covers the first ascent of the mountains, and the new routes climbed between the first ascent and 1999. A sequel to On Top of the World, published in 2000 which dealt with the discovery and early climbing history of the mountains, the book also uses new material which has come to light over the last decade to re-appraise the first ascents on Annapurna, Broad Peak and K2. Illustrated with stunning images for the new routes established during the new millennium, the book also includes archival shots from the early history of the mountains. These archival shots include first ascent shots from two of the mountains which had not been made available for the earlier book.The book is completed with data on the mountains provided by co-author Eberhard Jurgalski, who maintains the world’s most up-to-date database on these (and other) mountains. The data include all climbers who have summitted all 14 mountains (a figure which now stands at an astonishing 28) as well as those who are nearing the complete set. Sadly some of the latter have died in the attempt and will never achieve their goal.

For further details contact Richard Sale (01242 870245 or [email protected]).


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MICK FOWLER

The Prow of Shiva – Indian Himalaya 2012

Shiva Northeast Pillar – Mick Fower on upper part (Photo taken by Paul Ramsden)


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Paul Ramsden and I were ready to go. Permits had been granted, tickets bought and bureaucratic hurdles overcome. Pre-expedition excitement was building. And then, the month before departure we received an e-mail from Andrey Muryshev the leader of one of only two expeditions that had enjoyed a good view of our intended objective, the NE Pillar, or Prow, of Shiva (6,142 m).

‘Frankly I cannot imagine how you will do it. Do you mean north west buttress? It is c700 m of climbing after the col and it is north west side in October – all the rock will be frozen. From the other hand, the ice will be scarce as the buttress is very steep. So it will be very hard dry tooling and very hard protection. I saw your route on Siguniang – it is much easier.

And Bruno Moretti, the leader of an expedition that had a good view of the east side in 2010 had already suggested that the rock was likely to be terrible.

All in all it didn’t paint that positive a picture. But the photos Andrey and Bruno had kindly shared with us spoke for themselves. Shiva is an isolated 6,000 m peak in the Pangi district of the Indian Himalaya. Bruno felt the Prow stood out as the best line in the area and Andrey’s e-mail ended by saying he thought it was ‘inspiring’. That was good enough for us. I did wonder if we were up to it but loose rock, difficult climbing or whatever the line was such that we had to give it a go.

The Pangi District borders Kashmir and the troubles there have impeded access until recently. Now though the political situation is better, roads are being blasted ever further into the Indian Himalaya and mountains such as Shiva are accessible in 30 day trips from the UK. And to further ease matters in 2012 some economy flights came with a free 46kg baggage allowance. Times have certainly changed since my early trips to India where the first couple of days would be spent enduring bureaucratic misery retrieving freighted equipment from the Delhi customs warehouse. With a 46kg

Shiva from distance, Andrey Muryshev


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allowance all our equipment fitted easily in the hold and with mountain gas cylinders now being available in India life is certainly a lot easier than it used to be.

Steve Burns and Ian Cartwright made up our four man team and in late September we were marvelling at the new competition standard climbing wall at the Indian Mountaineering Foundation building before heading off on a night drive to the ‘honeymoon town’ (as our Liaison Officer called it) of Manali in the Himalayan foothills. From here it was a long day’s drive over the Rhotang Pass and then along a remarkable road down the Chenab valley to eventually turn off and reach the roadhead at the small village of Saichu. As far as we knew we were only the second mountaineering expedition, after Bruno Moretti in 2010, to visit this valley.

The weather seemed set fine and as water levels were low, we had understood that it would be possible to use mules or horses to carry our equipment all the way up to a base camp at 3,900 m below the east face of Shiva. As ever though planning on Himalayan trips has to be able to cope with a little flexibility. The first day was idyllic trekking through grazing pastures and deciduous forests but by evening the valley forked and it had become clear that the fork we needed to follow, the Tarundi valley, was so full of dense, shrub like bushes that the horses could go no further. Porters were summonsed and by a combination of portering and us load carrying base camp was established in a fine spot just above the bush line. Above us Shiva was clearly visible with the Prow looking even more inspiring than we had expected. We had clearly come across something rather special. And, through the binoculars, it did seem as if the rock on the steep section might not be as bad as we had been led to expect.

First though we had to acclimatise. And an unclimbed 5,500m summit on the ridge leading north from the Prow gave an obvious objective at just the right height. The views from the top were mouth watering. We could see that there were a few uncertainties about getting onto the crest and up to the foot of the steepest section but the most interesting discovery was that the Prow itself really did appear to be composed of good quality granite with occasional good cracks. It was one of those objectives that we both knew we would have to come back to if we didn’t get up this time.

Back at base camp Brittam our cook and Devraj the kitchen boy were probably the finest we have ever had on a trip and after a rest day during which we were fortified with large quantities of fine food it was time to get used to a diet of small quantities of mountain food and live off blubber accumulated over the year since my previous Himalayan exertion (two years in Paul’ s case).

Team: (from left to right) Ian Cartwright,Paul Ramsden, Mick Fowler, Steve Burns

Summit shot


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After tackling the complex glacial approach we pitched our little tent at the foot of the east face. The obvious first difficulty was getting over a bergschrund to establish ourselves in couloirs leading to the crest at the point where it steepened towards the Prow. Juggling with job, family et al means that I only manage one mountaineering expedition per year and it always takes a pitch or two to settle back into the swing of things. Being an east face an early start was necessary and 1.00am found me experiencing a harsh re-intoduction to mountaineering by tackling a vertical shale wall with a slanting, overhanging wall of iron hard ice sat on top. I certainly felt fully exercised by the time I pulled out into an ice runnel on the slope above. Back in England I had envisaged that it would be straightforward to gain the crest of the buttress below the Prow. In reality though the angle of the approach face was considerably steeper than I had expected and the combination of awful rock and powder snow made for sections of tricky, poorly protected climbing. The amazing variation in the snow depending on the direction of the slope added further to the challenge with north facing areas being covered in remarkably deep and remarkably steep powder.

‘It rubbish here. Just a collapsing knife edge’

Paul was in the lead and his comments were not encouraging.We had reached the ridge at 9.00am just as the snow was beginning to soften badly.

An interval followed during which I could pick out some energetic ‘a cheval’ activity going on as Paul moved slowly to a slightly more amenable spot. By the time he had brought me up the Ramsden face was smiling.

‘It’ s soft right the way down. Could be good for the tent.’

And it was. By about 10.00am a section of the knife edge had been flattened, the tent pitched and a belay of sorts constructed around a large snow bollard. It looked as if the rope would probably cut right through it like a cheese wire if put under any strain but that was not the sort of thought that we wanted to clutter our minds with as we lay relaxing and reading our books for the day. Above us the soft snow ridge looked challenging but the mixed buttress which started perhaps 150 m above us looked to offer perfect, safe climbing in a position of the kind Paul and I scour the earth to find.

By mid afternoon the following day the soft snow was behind us, we were underway on the Prow proper and had reached a small balcony just on the east side of the crest. Below it the ground overhung steadily for at least 500 m while round on the cold north west side the way was barred by a completely smooth 75 degree rock slab with an intermittent thin covering of verglas and powder. The only way on seemed to be up an overhanging fault line above the balcony, but that could be seen to cross the crest after perhaps 10 m and then disappear under the verglas and snow sticking to the slab. Paul and I prefer to carry our sacks wherever possible but this was clearly one of those possible ‘stopper’ pitches where a sackless leader was called for. I watched nervously as Paul aided the overhang and moved more precariously on up the faultline. Looking around there really wasn’t anywhere else obvious to go. Bolts could solve the problem but we both feel strongly that they have no place in exploratory mountaineering. We were right on the crest of the buttress and if we couldn’t do this pitch then that could well be the end of our attempt. All our dreams would end here. My heart was in my mouth as Paul moved up round the crest but he just kept on going. Brilliant! The faultline clearly continued in some way up the slab and eventually the shout came for me to follow. The fault did continue but in a distressingly thin manner. It was a fine lead by Paul and it left us with a good feeling. We had agreed to explore this section in the afternoon and return to bivouac on the balcony ledge but it still felt somehow


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strange to be leaving the sacks and following the pitch without being weighted down by a sack. We tend to climb strictly with alternate leads and with enough daylight remaining it seemed sensible for me to lead another pitch even though this would leave us with two pitches to jumar up in the morning. And we both hate jumaring. It feels unethical somehow; all that hanging about on ropes instead of climbing.

Weather wise it seemed we had timed things just right. Every morning the sky was clear and the weather glorious and every afternoon it clouded over with a gradually increasing amount of snow. It was very cold but the morning sun was great for thawing us out and infusing a sense of great happiness. The day above our nose to tail balcony bivouac was one of the finest I have enjoyed in the mountains. Out there on the crest of the most eye catching feature in the area the climbing started with absolutely perfect ice choked granite cracks and continued with memorably thin ice on steep slabs which were not unlike a lean day on the harder slab routes on Ben Nevis. By late afternoon a nose to tail bivouac ledge again provided a lie down bivouac and the possibility of sound sleep with a perfect view from our bedroom. People sometimes ask me why Paul and I never go for the headline grabbing objectives on bigger mountains. Here, on this wonderful climb in a rarely visited part of the Himalaya we had our answer. Shiva was giving us everything that we could possibly want from our mountaineering – an unclimbed magic line, visible from afar, going straight to the summit of the mountain, an interesting new area for us, no-one else around, a great approach and a traverse of the mountain with an unclimbed descent route in prospect. And all possible whilst still leaving enough time out from our full time jobs of heath and safety adviser (Paul) and taxman (me) for family holidays.

The next day was our sixth out from base camp. A few inches of snow fell in the night and it was gradually dawning on me that a descent down our line of approach up the east face would be unpleasant to the extent that, whatever lay ahead, it was better to persevere than descend. More thinly iced slabs followed by wonderful ice grooves and intimidatingly steep mixed pitches finally led to a snow band beneath the last overhanging wall which guarded access to the summit. From what we had seen through Paul’ s binoculars the band led rightwards round the crest to steep snow and a way of avoiding the final wall. Snow was falling as I headed off rightwards round onto the NW side. But luck was against us. A gap in the ramp presented a challenge that would obviously require aid and be time consuming. I retreated forlornly to an increasingly cold Paul. There was no way we were going to get up that evening and we had to admit that an ice choked chimney splitting the headwall was looking a more promising option for the morning.

Squeezed under the final wall was the one ledge on the entire Prow where we could half pitch the tent. Much of the floor overhung space but getting the poles in makes such a difference. Shielded from the heavy overnight snowfall we enjoyed a comfortable night and were ready to tackle the chimney first thing in the morning on day 7. It gave a fitting finale and from a cosy niche belay at the top I soaked up the weak rays of the morning sun and the glorious view as Paul led off out of sight up towards a short ridge leading to the cornice. It fell to me to break through and enjoy the curious sensation of being able to walk around on a flat area. Paul came up and a summit hug was in order.

A descent of the unclimbed SE flank ended 9 wonderful days in the mountains. It had been a fantastic trip and we had completed a climb that we already knew would soak us in retrospective pleasure for many years to come.


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Mick Fowler on lower sectionPaul on crevassed glacier approach

Climbing line (2)Climbing line (1)

Looking down to Paul, Mick’s leg Descent


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“Are you sure of going ahead?” Hiroyoshi Manome suddenly asked me from below. It was on the fifth day on Kyashar’s South Pillar. I had just led the first pitch of the day. The section had forced me time-consuming lead. I had to overcome carefully many flutings of sugar-soft snow and spent much time to set each protection. I thought that he was worrying about the difficult terrain above.

I was fully aware of my responsibility and realized that this is the point of no return. Unconsolidated snow slopes still stretch above though, it will be all right for me to lead as I had experienced such a terrain many times in the Himalayas. I decided to try my best to solve problems ahead and would entrust my partners – Manome and Tatsuya Aoki with next day’s lead.

YASUHIRO HANATANI

Nima Line: First ascent of South Pillar of KyasharHinku Valley in Khumb Himal, Nepal Himalaya

(Edited by Tsunemichi Ikeda)

Point of no return – complicated sugar snow ridge.


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An encounter with the mountain

Nine months ago, I had a plan to attempt the South Face of Ogre (Baintha Brakk) in Karakorum in the summer, but had to postpone the plan on account of partner’s conditions. I was then in Patagonia with Katsutaka Yokoyama and climbed “Mate y Polo y Todo lo Demas” on the North Pillar of Fitzroy. It was a fantastic climb and I was stimulated much by international climbers there. On the other hand, I still wish for wilder and more adventurous climbing in the bigger range – unknown, unclimbed and longer line. After a discussion with Manome and Aoki, we concluded to try the South Pillar of Kyashar 6,767 m in Nepal.

Kyashar lies in the Hinku Valley in Khumb Himal. It had been called Peak 43 or Tangnag Tseng and was opened for foreign climbers in 2000. The first ascent was made officially by Bruce Normand’s International team by the West Ridge in 2003 but the enormous South Face is still unclimbed. Marek Holecek from Czech Republic and Andy Houseman from UK had made several attempts and all failed at around 6,000 m line.

My first encounter with the mountain was on the third day of our approach march. Kyashar looked a fascinating pyramidal shape and I was grateful to see such an attractive line remained unclimbed. It was my eighth visit to Nepalese Himalaya and the team this time was the most compact one. Ratna Chuli in 1996, Ganesh Hilal III in 2000 and Himlung in 2009 – all had been rather bigger expeditions. We hired only five porters from Lukula. Our base camp was established in a lodge in Tangnag village and only a cook accompanied us.


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As Aoki deteriorated his conditions during the acclimatization period on nearby Mera Peak (6,473 m), Manome and I made a reconnaissance to the South Pillar. We tried the British line in 2010 and climbed swiftly to the 4,900 m line to find the lower rock wall is in better conditions. We decided to attempt by this line and completed our acclimatization on Mera Peak with Aoki who had quickly regained his health. We got a better look at the line of Kyashar.

We realized that the route was technical and difficult. We thought that it was typical ridge climbing and we’d need a week for the ascent. So we had to accept the idea of carrying heavy packs for food and fuel. Of course I normally like to climb in ‘light and fast’ style but that kind of ridge climbing does not make for the style. We would be going heavy but as fast as possible.

Climbing the South pillar

We woke up at 3:00 a.m. on our first day and began climbing after two hours’ approach to the base of the lower rock wall at 4,550m. The line was obvious and straightforward but some sections were covered with uncomfortable lichen and mud. It was easy and not so steep rock climbing until just under the traverse band at 4,900 m. The upper part was very loose but we stopped at 5,200 m before dark to bivouac after 17 pitches of climbing. Luckily enough, we could even find running water there.

Next day, we reached the higher glacier after climbing three pitches from the bivouac. A long traverse of snow ridge and five pitches of upper rock brought us to our second bivouac at 5,800 m. On the third day, Manome led a red-colored rockband with rock shoes. It was steep and loose and only a crux part was solid and enjoyable. Unfortunately, Aoki was hit by falling stone with his cheek and we made a bivouac at half way up the wall on a mushroom-shaped snow ridge. It was at 6,100 m.

On day 4, we cruised on solid rock and comfortable mixed terrain under a clear sky with no wind. But the good conditions would not last though and we were confronted with a terrible sugar-snow ridge which slowed our progress seriously. We had to bivouac at 6,350m after two hours’ effort to dig out a space for our tiny tent.

I took a lead next morning and traversed flutings on the 80 degree side wall of the ridge. I’d never been allowed falling as the snow was so unconsolidated that I couldn’t set any reliable protection. Carefully and steadily I spent considerable time to finish the first pitch. And so we were back to where I started.

It took us a full day of effort to climb mere five pitches and we made a bivouac on a snow mushroom at 6,500 m. It is difficult to express the grade though, but I can only to say that it was a crux and most difficult part of the whole climb.

On day 6, we rapped down to access a mixed ground for two pitches that would lead us to hard glacier ice for another two pitches. It was a relief after the previous day’s hard work. Aoki led the final hard ice pitch to get onto snow slopes leading to the summit. We walked slowly up the slopes and finally made it to the highest point of Kyashar.

We hurried to descend the West Ridge toward the col between Kusum Kanguru. The weather finally worsened. We stopped at the bergschrund at 6,250 m to make another bivouac at mid night.

We called the route ‘The Nima Line’ because Nima means sun in the Sherpa language and during our climb the sunshine was out every day and kept us warm and happy.


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Summary of activities:The first ascent of the Nima Line (ED+, 5.10a M5, 2,400 m) on the South Pillar of Kyashar 6,767 m, Nepalese Himalaya by Yasuhiro Hanatani, Hiroyoshi Manome and Tatsuya Aoki. 6 – 12 November 2012.

Approaching the upper pillar on the second day at c. 5,500 m.

Aoki climbing loose rock at around 5,600 m.

Hanatani leading the snow ridge onto the final headwall.

Manome and Aoki following awesome traverse on snow-flutings.

The summit! Aoki (left) and Manome.Manome leading the headwall on day 6.


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This was my fifth visit to the mountains of Sikkim. As a young student I was part of the training course of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in 1964. The mountains of west Sikkim, like Kabru, Rathong, Pandim and host of others were attractive to my young eyes. I returned in 1976. No sooner Sikkim became a state on India two us, Zerksis Boga and I obtained permits and roamed the valleys for more than a month in the northwest Sikkim, covering Zemu glacier, Lhonak valley Muguthang, Lugnak la, Sebu la and returned via the Lachung valley. I returned a few times to Darjeeling and Sikkim valleys visiting the Singalila ridge, lakes of lower Sikkim and surroundings of Gangtok and Kalimpong. If you stretch the area to the south, I made several visits to Darjeeling and nearby hills over the years. Moreover in Sikkim the approach to different valleys is so varied that it gives a feeling of trekking in different Himalayan zones.

HARISH KAPADIA

THE PLATEAUMountains of Sikkim – China Border

1 High Himalayan Unknown Valleys, by Harish Kapadia, p.156. (Indus Books, New Delhi, 2001). Also Himalayan Journal, Vol.35, p.181


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In no other country on earth can one find such a variety of micro-climates within such a short distance as Sikkim, declared the eminent English botanist and explorer Joseph Hooker in his Himalayan Journals (1854), which documented his work collecting and classifying thousands of plants in the Himalaya in the mid-19th century.

In the shadow of the Himalayas, by John Claude White, 1883 – 1908.

But one prized catch had escaped me – the northern-most valley of Sikkim near the China (Tibet) border. Known as ‘the Plateau᾽, this area contains some of the highest (after the Kangchenjunga group) and most beautiful peaks. This area was visited by several early explorers but after the 1962 India-China war it was highly restricted, especially as in later decades Chinese tried to assert themselves in these valleys. To its east lies the Chumbi valley which drains the Amo chu. It was through here that much trade with Tibet was carried out. The Younghusband Mission to Tibet passed through this valley 1903 – 1904. The early Everest expeditions either passed through the Chumbi or across the high passes of Naku la or Karpo la on the west of the Plateau. These early climbers, with spirit and stamina, climbed few of the high peaks on their way back even after months spent on Everest.

It was a few political officers, posted to the Darbar of the Chogyal in Sikkim by the British, who travelled to remote parts and recorded their journeys. Claude White at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, was a well travelled man. F. M. Bailey and F. Williamson explored the area between the two world wars. Experienced botanical explorers and naturalists F. Kingdon-Ward, F. Ludlow and George Sherriff added much to the knowledge of the northern Sikkim. Amongst the climbers Dr A.M. Kellas stands out. He made six expeditions to Sikkim between 1907 and 1920 and made many first ascents. He was especially active on the Plateau, and in 1910 alone he climbed 10 peaks above 6000 m, all first ascents. He had special attraction to the highest peak on the Plateau, Pauhunri (7,125 m).

In August and October, 1909, Dr Kellas attempted Pauhunri in two separate attempts, reaching within 100 m of the summit. Not to be defeated, he returned in May – June 1910 and Pauhunri yielded to his efforts and was climbed in a five day struggle from 13 to 17 June. All these efforts were on the northeast face, approached from the Chumbi. His route was repeated by C.W.F. Noyce (24 September 1945) and French climber R. Walter (24 September 1949). After three decades an Indian army team (Col. V.Y.Bhave) made an ascent from the Plateau and northwest face (20 September 1983) and was repeated by a team of para military forces (Sonam Wangyal) on 1 November 1989.

Three of us, Atul Rawal, Vijay Kothari and I arrived in May 2012 to trek in the north Sikkim area and the Plateau. We were all above 65 years in age and were supported by our dependable three Kumauni porters. At first we had to acclimatise to the altitude to reach the Plateau, as the average height is almost 19,000 ft. However, with such strong winds, it is not possible to stay long enough to acclimatise. Hence we entered the Lachung valley first.

Lachung, Dombang and Borum la

Half a day of travel on a rough road from Gangtok brought us to Lachung which was at grips with tourists, or what they call ‘Package travellers᾽. A group is offered a ‘package’ to start from Kolkata, travel overnight by train to Siliguri and drive to Gangtok. The following day is a long drive to


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Lachung. On the third day this horde drives up to what is known as ‘Zero Point’ (at foot of Donkhya la), rambles for half an hour on snow, returnsto Lachung, and remarkably, ahead to Gangtok same evening. On the fourth day they drive to the railway station and return by night train back to Kolkata. In between they see a monastery or two and do some shopping! We were amazed at their stamina, lack of time and no curiosity to see anything more.

Lachung was a small village, now with a few hotels and many guest houses. It was well spread out and with strong army presence as several routes from here lead to the border between Chumbi valley and China. There was no trace or memory of the Scottish missionary Miss Doig, who had spent decades here and was well known to the early expeditions.

After about five kilometres a road bifurcates east to the Dombang valley. It is a long valley, almost parallel to the main Lachung valley. One side are the steep slopes to the border with Gora la (5,248 m), once an easy pass to the east. The ridge between the Dombang and Lachung valley, ‘the Dombang ridge᾽, contained several peaks, not higher than about 5,800 m but attractive. The Dombang valley was thoroughly explored by Trevor Braham in 1949 with M. Hruska, a Czech climber. They selected to go in November, facing the cold but hopefully enjoying clear weather, a rarity in Sikkim. With them was the famous Sherpa Ang Tharkay. ‘Ang Tharkay᾽s reputation was founded, I think, not on his natural qualities as a mountaineer, but also on his ability as a manager. The confidence and trust which he inspired gave one the comforting assurance that if a solution to any problem existed he would find it.᾽ After reaching the foot of Gora la, they followed a smaller tract to the northwest over the Karpo la (5,383 m). They followed the Khangkyong glacier and found a way to the Plateau via Donkhya la. ‘The Plateau was almost two miles deep, it was surrounded by a row of five peaks, two over 23,000 feet and the remainder over 22,000 feet......᾽. This was a fine exploration of an alternate approach to the Plateau. We were to see these peaks and the 19,000 foot pass reached by him from the north soon.

Our association with the journey of Trevor Braham continued. We spent two delightful days at the forest rest house at Yumthang, after passing the rhododendron sanctuary. This vast open ground is surrounded by sharp rocky mountains to the west and the Dembang range to the east. If developed, this ground can challenge any climbing centre in the world.

The trek to Borum la (4,883 m) starts about three kilometres ahead of Yumthang. A board had been put up at the junction with Lako chu, encouraging tourists to walk, ‘1.5 km to Hot Springs᾽. We went up a well made path which soon disappeared and, for at least 15 kilometres where the valley ended, there were no hot springs. After a camp the trail entered a narrow valley and led to the small lake almost near Borum la, fed by the Borum glacier. In 1949, Braham could not cross the lake and we were confronted with the same situation. We were well advised by the army not to cross Borum la as the trail on the west, towards the Lachen valley, was destroyed by the earthquake in 2011. The earthquake was about 10 km below the surface and the areas, even ancient monasteries, near the epicentre were left relatively untouched. But it was far away areas like this Lachung-Lachen ridge that bore the full force. Anyway reaching the pass was all that we desired and an acclimatised party now returned to Lachung and thence by road to Lachen for the second part of our trek.

2 Himalayan Odyssey, by T H Braham, p.54 – 55. (George, Allen and Unwin, London, 1974)3 Braham, ibid. p.564 Braham, ibid. p.60


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(The Giagong Valley) is a desolate, windswept spot lying in the centre of a gorge between Chomoiomo (Chomo Yummo) 23,000 feet on the west, and Kangchenjhau, 24,000 feet, on the east, and is a veritable funnel up which the wind always howling. I managed, however, to find a fairly sheltered spot for my camp and stayed a few days. One day I climbed a hill to the west called Tunlo, and from the top I had a magnificent view to the north Sikhim up to the rounded hills forming the watershed and the true boundary. Looked at from this elevation, the scene is a most desolate one truly typical of, and only to be found in, Tibet: with the exception of the valley immediately below me, nothing was under 18,000 feet, without shrub, much less a tree, to be seen, and the wonder was how the large flocks of sheep scattered about, numbering perhaps 10,000 or 12,000, found enough grazing to keep them alive.

In the shadow of the Himalayas, by John Claude White, 1883 – 1908.

We were heading to the Giagong valley, described by White. In fact we were to make a sort of base camp at Giagong to visit the Plateau twice. But first we spent two days at Lachen, which I had visited in 1976. It had changed completely of course and all my enquiries about my old memories bore no fruit. The old monastery was now fully renovated stood next to a modern hotel. There was no sign of family of the famous guide Kondup lama who had accompanied me. He was as legendary as Tensing Norgay Sherpa, undertaking several journeys to Everest via Tibet with him. No one remembered the Scottish Mission at Lachen. The old forest bungalow where I had spent wonderful days, was surrounded by hutments and was now turned ugly, and into a non-functional radio broadcasting station. I had seen the log book here where most early Everest team members had signed, and some signatures were missing on return entry, of those who had perished on the mountains. There was sign of this log book at any forest establishments till Gangtok. The system of ‘Phipun’ (village headman) was prevalent but now it was an elected post within the village.

Mountain scenery was to change rapidly in next two days. Driving to Thango we had first views of twin Lama Angden peaks 5868 m, first climbed by A.J.M. Smyth and Wing Commander Ford in September 1942. Soon the southern view of the peaks on the Plateau emerged, looking like a hug block of snow clad peaks of Gurudongmar and Kangchenjau. Both these peaks have a long history.

On his return from Everest in 1936 Eric Shipton and E.G.H. Kempson separated from the main party to enter the Plateau from Kongra la (5,133 m). On 1 July, in a long day push, two of them made the first ascent of Gurudongmar (6,715 m), by reaching a col from the shores of the lake to climb the steep west ridge. The second ascent was made only in 1991 when a para-military force team (G.T.Bhutia) climbed it on 3 October, along with nearby Sanglaphu (6,224 m). Kangchenjau (6,889 m) was Dr Kellas’ territory. In August 1912 he reached a col from Sebu la and reached the upper rocks. He turned to the north ridge from here to reach the summit plateau and the top. The other creditable attempt was made by Trevor Braham in 1949. The mountain also killed four Indian climbers in an avalanche in 2005. Dr P.M.Das a well known mountaineer died on these slopes.5

We spent the first night at the Giagong camp of the Indian army. In fact winds were so strong that it would be a major effort to set up small mountaineering tents. Next morning we walked towards Tunlo, a small hill in the west, which was mentioned by White. There were some yak herders camped there and the view of the vast plateau was rewarding. In the distance we could see remains of a sangar (rock wall) built by Tibetans to protect themselves against any invaders. We passed this wall next


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day.6

Kangchenjau rose fearfully in the east with huge blocks of ice hanging on its face. On the west was Chomo Yummo (6,829 m). Both these and their surrounding peaks were to be seen all along till we turned east on the Plateau. Chomo Yummo straddles on the ridge between the Giagong valley and the Tibet border broadly. The attempt by T. H. Tilly with Ang Tharkay in 1945 from Donkung, and the northeast approach, failed. Then came Dr. Kellas again! In 1910 he climbed the northwest ridge to make the first ascent. In 1986, this peak was to suffer an assault by 39 summitters from an army team (Maj. Gen. P.L. Kukrety). They fixed ropes till the top and all climbed up – a far cry from the ascents by Dr. Kellas.

To our west was Chummankang (6,212 m) earlier known as Laschi. Leaving luggage with the legendary Karma Paul, Bill Tilman and his Sherpas climbed this rather gentle peak. It was rainy season so route finding was complicated and they could hardly see any view. But Tilman turned that to virtue and wrote: ‘The great disadvantage of the monsoon period of seeing neither where one is going nor the surrounding scenery is compensated for in small degree by the surprises and shocks occasionally administered by a momentary lifting of the clouds, and by the fun of guessing where one is. A journey in this season can also be recommended to those who enjoy discomfort᾽. We were soon heading for the Plateau. Little ahead at Donkung a bifurcation led to Mirdo, which is known as the ‘Finger area’ due to the border jutting out like a finger on the Tibetan plateau. This was the route of early expeditions to Tibet, going across Kongra la (5,133 m). But then this area was ‘sensitive’ due to the Chinese designs. We were fortunate to be permitted to spend some wonderful time on the Plateau which is strictly regulated after the India-China War of 1962.

The Plateau was vast and wild, more than anything we had imagined. As we passed Yumcho plains (with a small lake), wind, which explorers had called ‘a veritable curse᾽, was starting to build up. Travellers were glad to lie down in some hollow or crouch behind stones so as to be out of wind even for a few minutes! The Gurudongmar lake (5,176 m) was sublime with deep blue water and white peaks of Gurudongmar and Kangchenjau formed the backdrop There were tourists visiting fleetingly and praying at the temple built by the army, this was the grand finale of their ‘package᾽! Our next aim was the high Dorji la (5,640 m). Vast number of peaks opened to view from here and the scene was best described by White. ‘There is something exhilarating in these high altitudes, the tremendous expanse of snow around gives a feeling of freedom not experienced at lower elevations, while there is always a fascination in arriving at a summit of a mountain, (or a pass) particularly when the unknown is on the other side.᾽ (Italics mine)8

5 While attempting the summit, the party was hurled down in an avalanche and got entangled in the ropes they were tied to. In all five climbers died on the spot and two survived with serious injuries. Thos who died were Dr Paras Moni Das, Inder Kumar, Ms. Nari Dhami (these two had summitted Everest recently), Dawa Sherpa and Dawa Wangchuk, instructors from mountaineering school at Gangtok. Dr P. M. Das was a high ranking police officer and a well-known climber. Obituary of Dr P. M. Das in, Himalayan Journal, Vol.62, p.270. Also see details in the Himalayan Club Newsletter, No. 59 (2006), p.7.

6 ‘About a mile north of this camping ground (Giagong) are the remains of the wall built by the Tibetans as an obstruction to the British Mission to Tibet in 1903-04.’ Tours in Sikhim by Percy Brown, p.128 ( W. Newman and co., Ltd., Calcutta, 1944).

7 ‘Laschi and the Zemu Gap’ by H.W.Tilman. Himalayan Journal, Vol. XI, p.148.8 In the shadow of the Himalayas, by John Claude White, 1883 – 1908. (Reprint, Mapin Publishing,

Ahmadabad, 2005, p.69 – 70)


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As we turned towards south, looking towards Kerang, the mountain scene that we had come looking for opened in front of us.

It is one of the most remarkable landscapes in the world, and alone worth the journey to see it... Cho Lhamo is in front, beneath the feet of the spectator, beyond is a desert with rounded hills. Further away, range after range of mountains, some of them covered with snow, extend to a distance the eye cannot appreciate. The total change of colour and form from the valleys of Sikhim, the utter barrenness, the intense clearness of the atmosphere, produce such an effect as if one were grazing upon another world in which the order of this is no longer preserved, where a tropical desert is seen amongst snow-capped peaks, beneath the unnaturally clear atmosphere of the arctic regions.(Blanford, Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, 1871. p.407)

The Donkhya la (5,495 m) was in front of us, flanked by peak Donkhya Ri (6,190 m) and Sanglapu (6,224 m). The southeast was dominated by Pauhunri (7,125 m) and its five satellite peaks were leading to the south on the ridge dividing the Plateau and the Chumbi valley. These peaks were: 7,032 m, 6,911 m, 7,032 m, 6,915 m and, 6,730 m, all unclimbed and unattempted. This would be one of the highest wall separating two valleys.

Cho Lhamo (or Tso Lhamo) had many attractions. Birds from Siberia and Russia come here during summer. There is much wildlife and vegetation. It is reported that geologically the Plateau is important. ‘Messers G.B. Gourlay and J. B. Auden spent October and early November 1934 on a visit to north-eastern Sikkim. At a height of about 17,300 ft, they found a series of highly fossiliferous shale and limestone, the preliminary examination of which suggests that these beds are Triassic in age. This find is important in that these Tso Lhamo beds fill the gap between Lower Permian Lachi beds first found in 1933 by L.R.Wagner when on the Everest Expedition, and the Jurassic system which has long been known to cover so much of Tibet.’ (Kenneth Mason, Editor, Himalayan Journal, Vol. VII, p.139 – 141)

The Tibetan frontier ran to our north for a long distance, a high ridge with passes of Kongyakma (5,605 m), Sesse la, (5,462 m), Chulung la (5,447 m) and ending at the ‘Finger area᾽ and pass of Kongra la (5,133 m). The famous Kampa Dzong, where Dr Kellas was buried, was about 35 km from here. Thus Kampa Dzong was closely related to the mountains of Sikkim.

Just before reaching Kampa Dzong, Dr Kellas died of heart failure. He had been ailing since the march through the humbi valley. He had strained his heart during the previous year on Kamet and Narsing (19,128) and in the early spring of 1921 in camps over 20,000 feet on Kabru. The country between Phari and Kampa Dzong, mostly above 16,000 feet was now too severe for him. He was buried on 6 June (1921) on the slopes of the hills south of Kampa Dzong facing the mountains of Sikkim, which he alone had climbed.

Abode of Snow, by Kenneth Mason,


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If there was a high, windy and desolate frontier anywhere, it was here. One could see a hint of Tibetan borderland of Chumbi valley. ‘It was a magnificent afternoon and the view over Tibet was glorious. The power of sun᾽s rays at this height in the very clear atmosphere was extraordinary, and I have never before or since felt it in the same way᾽ – again to quote White. We were on the shores of the Cho Lhamo lake though it had much snow on it but the location and surroundings were so beautiful that we forgot the strong wind and remained there in silence for some time.

Members: Harish Kapadia (67), Atul Rawal (64), Vijay Kothari (69) Period: May 2012


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Historical Map of Sikkim in northeastern India extracted from map prepared by Trelawney Saunders, 1876, titled "The routes of Bogle, Turner and Manning between Bengal and Tibet" and published in the book, Narratives of the Mission of George Bogle to Tibet, and of the Journey of Thomas Manning to Lhasa, by Clements R. Markham, C.B., F.R.S. Geographical Department, India Office. Published by London: Trübner and Co., Ludgate Hill. 1876.

Historical Map of Sikkim in northeastern India


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TATSUO (TIM) INOUE



South Zanskar, the north west of Indian Himalaya is the very exciting mountain area with many unknown and untrodden peaks. In 2009, we explored Reru Valley and in 2011, we went to Lenak Nala and Giabul Nala, to explore the unknown virgin peaks. As a next project, we decided to explore Temasa Nala and Gompe Tokpo, northern valleys close to Reru Valley during June 27 ~ August 2, 2012.

Our exploration team consisted of four senior members, Mr. Mitsuhiko Okabe (71), Mr. Masaki Shibata (66), Mr. Toshihiro Katsumata (64) and me Mr. Kimikazu Sakamoto (72) as the leader. We requested Mr. Tsewang Yangphel of Hidden Himalaya in Leh to support our expedition same as 2009 and 2011, and he arranged three kitchen staffs, two horsemen and ten horses.

1. Approach to Zanskar

We left Japan for Delhi on June 27, and arrived at Leh in Ladakh by air on June 28, 2012. We enjoyed Hemis Gompa Tsechu which was the most famous biggest festival in Ladakh on June 29. We left Leh on June 30 by chartered cars and arrived at Padam via Kargil on July 2.On July 3, we had the rest at Padam for acclimatization and visited Thonde Gompa and Zangla Chomo Gompa. We were pleased to see the beautiful pink wild roses near Thonde and Zangla. At Thonde, we could have the exciting panoramic view of many peaks surrounding Gompe Tokpo.On July 4, after visiting Karsha Gompa and Tsewang's mother at Hongche village, we drove to Bardan and set up our camping tents at Bardan Gompa School.

[Remark」There is no official mountain name given to the peaks in Southern Zanskar. In order to avoid any confusion in identifying the mountains, we put our tentative mountain names like T1, T2, T3 to the peaks in Temasa Nala and Gompe Tokpo, H1, H2, H3 to the peaks in Haptal Tokpo and M1, M2, M3 to the peaks in Mulung Tokpo. The outline maps drawn by myself are showing the tentative names.

2. Exploration of Temasa Nala

July 5 (Thursday): Cloudy, 6:55 / Bardan Gompa School (3,635 m) – 8:20/Col of traverse hill – 12:40 / Meadow before Korlomshe Tokpo (3,945 m). Today is the first day of our exploration to Temasa Nala. From Bardan Gompa School, we could see the exciting east face of P6071 (R1) glittering in the morning sunrise. We walked up the gentle green pasture hillside and crossed three small hills. Then we walked down to the right side bank of Temasa Nala.Temasa Nala was open and wide valley with about 200 ~ 300m width. Both side banks of the river were the very wide and flat meadow suitable for grazing yaks. But, the stream of Temasa Nala was so rapid and strong and seemed to be impossible for our crossing even by riding on horse. Temasa Nala welcomed us with many beautiful flowers, like pink wild rose, blue poppy, yellow Hichu and etc. We could see the rock mountain P6028 (T12) on the right side and the north face of P6071 (R1) on the

KIMIKAZU SAKAMOTO

Exploration 2012 of Hidden Virgin Peaks in ZanskarTemasa Nala, Gompe Tokpo and Haptal Tokpo of Indian Himalaya


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left side. We came to the nice grassy meadow before the junction with Korlomshe Tokpo and decided to use this place for our camping site as we could get pure water.

July 6 (Friday): Fair, 7:00/CS before Kolromshe Tokpo (3,945 m) – 11:50 / Kanjur (Junction with Chhuralpachan Nala) – 12:30 / Near junction with Kangla Glacier (4,200 m). In the beautiful fair weather, we enjoyed the pleasant walking on the right bank of Temasa Nala looking up the north face of P6071 (R1) and P6028 (T12), P6294 (T4) on Tidu Glacier appeared behind the junction with Kangla Glacier. Google Earth 3D photo showed this mountain as the white snow mountain. But, the actual peak of P6294 (T4) which we saw from Temasa Nala was the pyramidal sharp peak mixed with rock and snow. We pitched our tents at the wonderful green pasture just after passing Kanjur which was located at the junction with Kangla Glacier, as we could have the pure spring water. Many yaks were enjoying in eating grasses and walking around near our camp site.

July 7 (Saturday): Fair and Cloudy, 7:30 / CS near junction with Kangla Glacier (4,200 m) – 9:15/Junction with Kangla Glacier - 10:30 / Glacier tongue of Tidu Glacier – 14:10/Near Junction with Tsewang Tokpo (4,400 m) –18:00 / CS near junction with Kangla Glacier (4,200 m).We had one day hiking to Tidu Glacier. The glacier tongue looked not so far from our camp site, but actually it took three hours for us to reach there. We climbed up to the center of the moraine from the glacier tongue and walked around on the moraine avoiding many crevasses. It took a lot of time in maze of moraine until we reached near the junction with Tsewang Tokpo which went up to the North Glacier where P6107 (T9) and P6022 (T7) were located.On the left side of Tidu Glacier, there were the attractive peaks P6294 (T4) and P5995 (T6). But both mountains looked difficult to be climbed. Originally, we planned to go up Tsewang Tokpo to see P6107 (T9) and P6022 (T7) in three days trekking, carrying up camping equipments and foods by horses. However, we found that it was impossible to carry up the heavy baggages by horses into the Tsewang Tokpo, because it was steep with several water falls and the side slopes was also so steep and dangerous with unstable stones for horses. Therefore, we gave up this exploration program into Tsewang Tokpo. It took us long time to go down on the unstable moraine to the glacier tongue. We came back to our camp site at 18:00, being fatigued.

July 8 (Sunday): Cloudy and fine, rest day. We decided to take rest for full day, as Mr. Katsumata was not in good condition with heavy cough and phlegm and his face was swollen. On the other side from our camp site, there was Chhuralpachan Nala, the big branch of Temasa Nala which goes up South to P6177 (R6). There was the big rock castle on the left side of Chhuralpachan Nala. It was the junction peak which was located on the main ridge between P5947 (R2) and P6036 (R3). This peak has no height on the Indian Official Map but seemed to be around 5,800 ~ 5,900 m. I wondered any young climbers will try to challenge this rock castle peak in the near future.

July 9 (Monday): Fair, 8:00 / CS near junction with Kangla Glacier (4,200 m) – 9:30 / Junction with Kangla Glacier – 10:30 / Right side mountain – 12:20 / CS (4,200 m). As Mr. Katsumata had the high fever with 38.6 Celsius, other three members had the short hiking to the right side mountain in Temasa Nala to see the inside of Kangla Glacier. We climbed up grassy slope with faint yak trail. We saw the other side of Temasa Nala and recognized that Kangla Glacier was big and long.

July 10 (Tuesday): Cloudy and then fair, 5:00 / CS (4,200 m) - 6:00 / Junction with Kangla Glacier – 8:05 / Kangla Glacier 4530m – 10:45 / Kangla Glacier 5,000 m – 12:40 / Junction with Kangla Glacier – 15:40 / CS (4,200 m). Three members and Tsewang, our guide, left the camp site at 5:00 am to have one day hiking to Kangla Glacier, as Mr. Katsumata still had heavy cough and phlegm. Two


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horsemen came with us to the junction to assist us to cross Temasa Nala on horses. Even in the early morning, the stream was very strong and rapid. There was the yak trail on the left side gentle slope of Kangla Glacier, with several cairns up to about 4,500 m where the glacier started. Mr. Okabe and Mr. Shibata went ahead as they were fast walkers, and Tsewang and I enjoyed the slow walk. When we looked back the other side of Temasa Nala, we could see P6107 (T9) in Tsewang Tokpo and P5957 (T10).When we walked up on the glacier over 4,500 m, we could see the beautiful snow and rock mountain P5995 (T3) on the right side and the top of Kangla Glacier. I took several photographs of the mountains on the left side of Kangla Glacier, but unfortunately we could not identify which peak was P5935 (T2). I and Tsewang turned back from about 5,000 m where the glacier became flat, and Mr. Okabe and Mr. Shibata went up to about 5,100 m. When we went down to the junction, Temasa Nala had so much water with melted glacier and became so rapid and strong. We went up near the glacier tongue of Tidu Glacier and crossed the rather shallow spot on horse. After we came back to the camp site, the rock castle on theleft side of Chhurapachan Nala was glittering in the sunset.

July 11 (Wednesday): Fair and then cloudy7:50 / CS (4200m) – 9:40 / Nyusri Yonga – 11:00 / Korlomshe Tokpo (4,020 m).We moved down to the junction with Korlomshe Tokpo for our exploration into Korlomshe Tokpo. We pitched our tents at the nice beautiful place with pure water on the left side of Korlomshe Tokpo.

July 12 (Thursday): Cloudy, 7:05 / CS at junction with Korlomshe Tokpo (4,020 m) – 8:20 / Korlomshe Tokpo 4,195 m – 11:00 / Korlomshe Tokpo 4,525 m. We walked up from our camp site on the left side of Korlomshe Tokpo and crossed over the stream to the right side after walking up about 500 meters. We climbed up the rather unstable slope with many rocks on the right side of the stream. The two branches came down from the rock mountain P6028 (T12) at the turning corner (4,195 m) of Korlomshe Tokpo.Our horseman carried up our equipments and three days foods on horses and refused to go upfurther, unloading all baggages at about 4,500 m. The horsemen excused that the rough slope with many stones was dangerous for their horses and went down to the junction with Temasa Nala.

July 13 (Friday): Fair and then cloudy and rainy, 6:10 / CS (Korlomshe Topko 4,525 m) – 9:00 / 4925m at bottom of P5908 (T11) – 10:10 / 5,100 m – 13:45 / CS (4,525 m). We went up Korlomshe Tokpo all together. The steep slope from our camp site was not so bad. We felt that all horses could go up surely safely. At the corner of Korlomshe Tokpo which turns to right, P5908 (T11) was located on the right side. On the left side, the sharp rocky peak P5957 (T10) stood up overwhelming us. The wide and big Korlomshe Glacier turned to the right. The fair weather suddenly changed to cloudy and the mountains started to be covered with thick mist. Mr. Okabe and Mr. Shibata rushed to the upper glacier to take photographs of P6436 (T13) which is the highest mountain in this area. At around 5,100 m, they could take only one photograph to show the whole figure of P6436 (T13) which was the big rock face mountain. July 14 (Saturday): Cloudy, 8:20 / CS (4,525 m) – 11:40 / CS at junction with Korlomshe Tokpo (4,020 m). We walked down on the left side of Korlomshe Tokpo, enjoying many beautiful wild flowers including many blue poppies.

July 15 (Sunday): Cloudy, 7:45 / CS (4,020 m at junction with Korlomshe Tokpo) – 13:30 / Bardan Gompa School (3,635 m). We walked down to Bardan Gompa School, saying good-by to Temasa Nala. In the afternoon, we visited Bardan Gompa where the big black Tibetan dog welcomed us at the entrance.


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July 16 (Mon): Fine, 7:30 / Bardan Gompa School – by car – 8:20 / Chaming Karsha Hotel And Restaurant at Padam. We moved back to Padam by chartered cars. Mr. Katsumata went to Padam Clinic Center as he was still suffering cough and phlegm. The doctor examined him carefully, and said that there was nothing serious on him and that he could continue trekking.

3．Exploration to Gompe Tokpo

July 17 (Tuesday): Fair, 7:00 / Hotel at Padam – 8:00 / Junction with Gompe Toko – 9:00 / Ubarak village – 15:30 / Gompe Tokpo 4,510 m. We walked up the gentle slope from the town of Padam to the entrance of Gompe Tokpo. P6157 (T20) which is the symbolic mountain of Padam stood up on the right side of Gompe Tokpo. We turned to right at the entrance of Gompe Tokpo to Ubarak. The traverse road to Ubarak village was very beautiful, decorated with many colorful wild flowers. We took yak trail on the grassy slopes from Ubarak village and traversed to the left side until we reached the col on the ridge with the cairn, where we could look down Gompe Tokpo. We went down the steep gully 40 ~50 meters from the col and then traversed the tricky unstable pile of big rocks to the right side for about 30 minutes. Then we entered into the branch of Gompe Tokpo. It was exhausted work. We climbed up the steep gully. After crossing over several small hills, finally we reached the flat spot where the upper Gompe Tokpo started. We set up our camp site on the grassy flat meadow with the blue poppies.

July 18 (Wednesday): Fair, 7:00 / Gompe Tokpo 4,510 m – 7:55 / Col with big cairn – 9:07 / Gompe Tokpo 4,720 m – 12:10 / Gompe Tokpo 4,920 m – 17:15 / Gompe Tokpo CS 4,510 m. We walked up on the gentle moraine from our camp site and reached the col with the big cairn which might be built by village people pasturing yaks. After crossing over the col, Gompe Tokpo became wider and the glacier started being surrounded with the overwhelming peaks. It was the amphitheater of Gompe Glacier.On the left side of the glacier, there was the big twin rock peak P6431 (T16). At the top of Gompe Glacier, the slender rock pinnacle peak P6184 (T18) stood. There was P6162 (T19) on the right side. We could not see P6157 (T20) from the inside of Gompe Glacier. To the left of P6431 (T16), T15 which has no official altitude on the map stood like Matterhorn in Zanskar. We wondered why no climber came up to this sanctuary of Gompe Tokpo to climb such attractive peaks which could be seen easily from Padam and Thonde.

July 19 (Thursday): Fair, 7:45 / Gompe Tokpo CS (4,510 m) – 9:32 / Col to Ubarak – 12:10 / Ubarak village (3,800 m). Our kitchen staff found the short cut route to Ubarak village. We traversed rather steep slope with many piled rocks. We had to be careful not to fall into the hole of piled rocks and then walked up the unstable slope to the col where we could see Ubarak village. On our way down to the village, we met Nepal man pasturing goats. Our camp site was on the grassy meadow near Ubarak village, with many beautiful wild flowers.

4. Exploration of Haptal Tokpo

July 20 (Friday):Fair, 7:15 / Ubarak CS (3,800 m) – 9:55 / Junction with Haptal Tokpo – 12:30 / Haptal Tokpo (3,655 m). As we could not explore into Tsewang Tokpo and we used only one day in Kangla Glacier instead of three days, six free days were left for us before our leaving for Leh. We decided to move to Chhogo Tokpo, the branch of Haptal Tokpo, to see the west side of P6157 (T20), P6162 (T19), P6184 (T18), P6436 (T13) and P6107 (T9).


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We traversed several pastures of the other villages, Razan, Trachhumik, Gomba and Taran, and went to Hapatal Tokpo. We crossed the strong big bridge on the main traffic road between Kargil and Padam to the right side of the valley. There was the small hydroelectric power station on the right side hill. Haptal Tokpo was the wide and open valley with the big grassy flat banks on the both sides, where many yaks were grazing. We saw the big rock peak P5845 (H17) standing firmly at the junction with Chhogo Tokpo.The water canal was built to supply the valley water to the hydroelectric power station. There was the big flat place like a football ground with a small refuge hut. Our guide Tsewang said that this hut might be built for trekkers just as propaganda for tourism by Indian Government, even though the trekking route from Haptal Tokpo to Kishtwar via Omasi La was seldom used. We walked along the water canal and climbed up the right side bank at the starting point of the water canal. There was the green flat meadow with many stone yak huts. We decided to pitch our tents, as there was pure spring water.

July 21 (Saturday): Fair, 7:20 / CS (Haptal Tokpo yak huts 3,665 m) – 9:15 / Tepuk Bhu (Junction with Chhogo Tokpo) – 12:20 / Junction with Satachan Tokpo (3,850 m). As the stream of Haptal Tokpo was so strong with much water, it seemed to be so dangerous for us to cross the stream from the right side to the left side to get into Chhogo Tokpo, even by using horse. Therefore, we decided to give up our plan to explore Chhogo Tokpo and to go up the main valley to Haptal Glacier. After passing Tepuk Bhu, the junction with Chhogo Tokpo, the mountains with sharp rock pinnacle appeared on the both sides of Haptal Tokpo. At the bottom of Haptal Tokpo, we could see P5740 (H14) and P5840 (H15) at the junction with Haptal Glacier and Yurachuk Glacier. We camped at the junction with Satachan Tokpo.

July 22 (Sunday): Fair, 6:30 / CS at junction with Satachan Tokpo (3,850 m) – 8:05 / Junction of Haptal Glacier and Yurachuk Glacier – 12:20 / Haptal Glacier 4,500 m – 14:50 / CS at junction with Satachan Tokpo. Four members and our guide Tsewang left our camp site at 6:20am to the junction of Haptal Glacier and Yurachuk Glacier. We judged it was dangerous for us to cross Haptal Tokpo from the right side to the left side in order to get into Yurachuk Glacier, because the stream was too rapid. The glacier tongue ofYurachuk Glacier was located near the valley junction, and Yurachuk Glacier seemed to be very rough with many crevasses. Therefore, we gave up exploring Yurachuk Glacier and decided to go up Haptal Glacier.We climbed up the steep grassy slope on the right side, escaping several water falls to reach the plateau. We could find the faint yak trail on the right side of the Haptal Glacier. At the corner of Haptal Glacier which turned to left, there was the rocky peak P5775 (H13). Though there should be P6042 (H3) in the right side branch, it was hidden by the front mountain. Haptal Glacier became wide and open after it turned to left. We could see P5730 (H20) and P5878 (H21) at the top of Haptal Glacier. When we looked back to Yurachuk Glacier, we could see the beautiful white peak P5849 (H16) on the left side of Yurachuk Glacier. We turned back from around 4500m and went down to the junction. Many yaks were gathering at the junction and enjoying in grazing on the both side banks of Haptal Tokpo. We came back to our camp site, looking the challenging rock pinnacles on the both side of the valley.

July 23 (Monday): Cloudy, 6:45 / CS at junction with Satachan Tokpo (3,850 m) – Satachan Tokpo – 9:35 / CS (3850m). We tried to explore Satachan Tokpo to see P6085 (H2) and P6042 (H3). As I was not in good condition, I gave up to go farther at the water fall. Three members and Tsewang continued to climb up the left side slope. But, they encountered the gorge and were obliged to retreat without seeing P6085 (H2) and P6042 (H3). They came back to our Camp Site at 9:35 am.


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July 24 (Tuesday): Cloudy, 7:35 / CS at junction with Satachan Tokpo (3,850 m) – 11:30 / yak huts CS (3,655 m). It was possible for us to go down to Sani village in one day, but we preferred to spend another night in the quiet mountains because the camping site at Sani village might be noisy. All of us including our kitchen staffs and horsemen were busy in the afternoon for washing, as we don't want to wear the dirty and sweaty clothes in the town. We had the farewell party in the evening, as two horsemen and one kitchen staff would be going back to their village soon after arrival at Sani village on June 25.

July 25 (Wednesday): Cloudy then fine, 7:35 / CS at junction with Satachan Tokpo (3,850 m) – 9:30/Camping site at Sani village (3,500 m). We went down to Sani village and pitched our tent at the camping site on Sani Lake. Two horsemen and one kitchen staff left for their home village, saying good-by to us. We visited Sani Gompa which would have festival soon. As village people continued training of drums for the festival until midnight around 2:00 am, we could not have enough sleep.

5. After exploration We spent three days during July 26 ~28 to return to Leh via Kargil. On July 29, we enjoyed attending at Daktok Gompa Tsechu (festival) and visiting Chemrey Gompa and Spitok Gompa. On July 30, we left Leh for Delhi and visited IMF Head Office in the afternoon. We had the nice meeting with the Director Mr. J P Bhagatjee. He appreciated our exploration in Zanskar and expressed his thanks for our effort to introduce the hidden peaks in Zanskar to the climbers over the world through The Himalayan Journal, Japanese Alpine News and etc.

In our 2012 exploration to Temasa Nala, Gompe Tokpo and Haptal Tokpo, we could see and identify the twenty-one virgin peaks as below.

P6071 (R1) Non Open Peak P5935 (T3) Non Open PeakP6294 (T4) Open Peak P5995 (T6) "P6107 (T9) " P5957 (T10) "P6028 (T12) " P5908 (T11) "P6436 (T13) " P5845 (H17) "P6431 (T16) " P5740 (H14) "P6184 (T18) " P5860 (H15) "P6162 (T19) " P5840 (H16) "P6157 (T20) " P5775 (H13) "

P5730 (H20) "P5878 (H21) "

The above peaks have no climbing record on IMF book. But it is a real headache for IMF that recently illegal climbing without official IMF Permit has been increasing in Indian Himalaya.We were very happy to have the successful exploration in the good team harmony and under the best support from our agent Hidden Himalaya. We hope somebody will try to climb the virgin peaks which we discovered in this area.


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P6071 (R1) East Face from Bardan Gompa School P6071 (R1) North Face from Temasa Nala

P6107 (T9) and P5957 (T10) photographed from Kangla Glacier

P6294 (T4) = center and P5995 (T6) = right

P5935 (T3) in Kangla GlacierJunction rock peak, P6036 (R3) and P6089 (R4) in Chuurapachan Nala


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Top of Kangla Glacier Junction Big Rock Peak in Chuuraoacgan Nala

P5957 (T10) Kolromshe Nala photographed by Mr. Okabe

P6028 (T12) from Korlomshe Topko

P6436 (T13) in Korlomshe Tokpo photographed by Mr. Okabe

P5908 (T11) in Korlomshe Tokpo


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Google Earth photo – Temasa Nala

Unknown peaks in Gompe Tokpo photographed near Thonde Gompa


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P6157 (T20) photographed from Padam Veiled virgin peaks in Gompe Tokpo

T15 = left, P6431 (T16) = right in Gompe TokpoP6431 (T16) in Gompe Tokpo

P5740 (H14) = right, P5860 = left in Hapatal TokpoP5845 (H17) in Chhogo Tokpo of Haptai Topko


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P5840 (H16) in Yurachku Glacier 0f Haptal Tokpo P5775 (H13) in Haptal Glacier

Pinnacle rocks in Haptal TokpoP5878 (H21) and P5730 (H20) in Haptal Glacier

Rock mountains in Haptal Tokpo


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TATSUO (TIM) INOUE



The Kyoto University Alpine Club planned to send an expedition to Southern Zanskar being advised by Mr. Kimikazu Sakamoto, an expertise of Zanskar, a senior member of the Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto (AACK). We submitted an application for climbing P6070 (L15) to IMF (Indian Mountaineering Foundation) and obtained IMF official permit in late December 2011. Our second objective was P6080 (L13), but we had not applied a climbing permit for this peak to IMF before the departure.

Our student team of Zanskar Expedition 2012 consisted of four members, Mr. Hiroaki Ogihara (Senior) Leader, Mr. Yusuke Morimoto (Senior) Deputy Leader, Mr. Yuki Sawada (Sophomore) and Miss Karin Kosaka (Sophomore). A local trekking agent was "Hidden Himalaya". We had eleven persons in total including five staffs from the trekking agent and a liaison officer.

1. Approach in Lenak Nala

From Leh, we travelled by car for three days to reach Padam, the center of Zanskar. We moved by car to Dorzong, the end of road. September 3rd: Dorzong to TsetanSeptember 4th: Tsetan to TestaSeptember 5th: Testa to Shanka which is a small village with only three houses being located in the

junction of two valleys, Lenak Nala and Giabul Nala. September 6th: Rest at Shanka. September 7th: Shanka to Camping Ground in Lenak Nala. Peak P6070 (L15) was viewed from here..September 8th: Rest at camping ground in Lenak Nala. We met the expedition team from the

Japanese Alpine Club. They had succeeded in the first ascent of P6165 (L10) in the right branch of Lenak Nala.

2. Climbing

September 9th: Cloudy – Rainy.We departed and set up our BC at 4,800 m of the left branch of Lenak Nala. Ogihara and Morimoto reconnoitered a climbing route and reached 5,050 m at the foot of P6070 (L15). The access was on a steep slope.

September 10th: Cloudy – Clear. Rest at Lenak Nala BC.Since P6070 (L15) seemed too difficult and dangerous because of steep screes and snow avalanches, we changed our target to the second objective P6080 (L13) instead of P6070 (L15). We applied a climbing permit for P6080 (L13) to our liaison officer and obtained his permission.

HIROAKI OGIWARA

Ascent of P6080 (L13) in ZanskarKyoto University Alpine Club Expedition 2012


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September 11th: Clear.Wake / 5:00 – Lenak Nala BC / 6:00 - C1 (5,300 m)/9:30 - Departure from C1/11:00 – C2 (5,500 m) / 12:00 – C1 / 12:30 – BC / 15:40. We moved up from the BC to open a viable climbing route to P6080 (L13). Soon after leaving the BC, we climbed up the moraines of Lenak Nala Glacier. From 5000m, we entered the north valley to P6080 (L13) and set up the C1 on the right side of the glacier. After taking a break, Ogihara and Morimoto scouted for the C2. As climbing to the tip of the glacier, we had a whole view of this peak and noticed the conditions of the connecting glacier. The glacier was covered with no snow, and there was no danger of hidden crevasses at all. After 40 minutes ascent, we reached an expected camp site for the C2. We climbed up to 5500m and deposited our climbing gears in the shade of rocks. P6080 (L13) had less snow than we had anticipated.

September 12th: Clear. Rest at BC.It was felt a route was easily taken as there was little snow on P6080 (L13) Glacier. All of us were in a good health.

September 13th: Clear – Cloudy – Snow.Wake / 4:40 – BC / 6:00 – C1/9:30 – Departure from C1/11:00 – C2 (5,500 m) / 14:00 –C1 / 16:00.We four members departed from BC. At the C2, we placed some slate stones on the glacier surface for pitching tent. Sawada suffered from headache and dizziness. So, we decided to go down to the C1. It became foggy when we reached the C1 and it snowed again. In the mid night Kosaka vomited due to high altitude sickness.

September 14th: Snow – Cloudy – Clear.Wake / 9:00 – C1 / 14:20 - C2 / 15:00.Sawada and Kosaka descended to the BC. The weather soon cleared up. Ogihara and Morimoto started to assault the summit and moved to the C2. Now they were ready to attack the peak.

September 15th: Clear.Wake / 2:40 – C2 / 4:20 - Col between East and West Peak / 6:45 – East Peak (6,060 m) / 7:15 – West Peak (6,080 m) / 10:00 – C2 / 12:10.It was windy in the evening and thickly clouded in the last night. Ogihara and Morimoto decided to attack the peak. Morimoto followed the screes slope, avoiding crevasses. It was silent as the water stream was frozen. As the screes slope was rather gentle, we were able to go up quickly. At 5:30am, the sun rose. At 6:00, we reached the snow ridge. The snow was hard. The slope was only about 30 degree. We zigzagged up the slope and reached the col at 6:45. The ridge to the East Peak viewed widely open from the col. We walked up along the ridge for 15 minutes and then Morimoto was the first to stand atop the virgin peak of P6080 (L13). The slate screes slope was exposed on the East Peak itself. We relaxed, making a cairn and taking photos.

From the East Peak, we could see the ridge from the col to the West Peak. It looked more difficult than expected. As we could see two crevasses running parallel to the ridge, we proceeded using our rope on three pitches. As the snow was hard, we had difficulty in setting up the anchor with snow bar. The West Peak of P6080 (L13) was a bare rock peak, where we found something like cairn. There was no other artificial remain. When we discovered the cairn, we were simply surprised rather than disappointed. We went down to the col and we returned to the C2.


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September 16th: Snow.We dismantled the C2 and headed down to the C1. It started snowing after we reached the BC. We were lucky to be able to attack the summit the day before.

September 17t: Snow. Rest at the BC.We decided to attack our first objective P6070 (L15) after resting at the BC. It snowed all day.

September 18th: Snow – Clear.Mr. Tsewang awoke us at 4:00am. We went outside and saw everything covered with snow. Danger of avalanches and hidden crevasses had us give up an attempt on P6070 (L15). Mr. Tsewang warned that we might be snowed up in the BC. We could safely go down to Shanka village. We stayed two nights there.

Notes

After returning to Delhi, we visited the IMF for paying an additional fee for P6080 (L13) and reporting that we saw the cairn on the top of P6080 (L13). They replied that our climbing to this peak would be recognized as the first ascent, on the conditions that we later submit an official expedition report to the IMF, since there was no previous record on the IMF Book. We named P6080 (L13) “Our Mountain” , “Nga Tsoey Kangri” in the local language, which has been acknowledged by the IMF.


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BC and P6070m (L15)

On top of West Peak 6,080 m

P6080m (L13)

On top of East Peak 6,060 m


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Our expedition to two untrodden summits in the remote Lenak valley of the Zanskar Range was planned and executed taking advantages of an inspiring advice and information of Mr. Kimikazu Sakamoto. He is an expertise of the region and a senior member of the Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto (AACK). The relevant mountain area and peaks map is given elsewhere in Mr. Sakamoto’s article in this volume.

Expedition Members

Taisuke Ohori – Leader, Kensei Mitsui, Shimpei Kubota, Tomoyuki Takayama, Yuichiro Iida

Approach

August 15: Japan to New Delhi.August 16: Preparation.August 17: New Delhi to Manali (Manali-Leh Road).August 18: Manali to Darcha, stay in tents.August 19 – 28: Caravan to the BCCaravan was started westwards from Darcha. Vehicle roads reached Takpachan (3,770 m) where heavy construction machines were in services for development, but we walked for acclimatization to high altitude. The roads were bad but clearly recognized. It was fine in the day time but got cloudy in

TAISUKE OHORI

Ascent of PT6165 & Attempt on PT6045 in ZanskarJapanese Alpine Club (JAC) Students Expedition 2012


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the evening and rained sometimes with thunder in the night. It was chilly in the night above 4,500 m. Weather pattern changed after crossing the Singo La (5,045 m) and good weather continued. On the way back temperature went down and it snowed heavily.

Ascent of PT 6165

August 29: Setting up the ABC and loads ferry.To find an appropriate location for the ABC, we ascended screes from the BC (5,100 m) and then to the Lenak Glacier terminus which led to PT6165. It first took two hours to the ABC but less than 1.5 hours later. After establishing the ABC we went to a point where a whole profile of PT6165 from the lower part to the top could be sighted. A viable climbing route was confirmed on the north face of the east ridge.

August 30: Load ferry finished.Every member carried some 18kg and 60% of gears and supplies were carried. It took two hours. For acclimatization we ascended up to a point at 5,700 m. We first walked on the glacier. Though we imaged danger of seracs collapse, the glacier surface was flat and stable like snow beds in Japanese mountains and easy to walk. After depositing climbing gears at climbing start point, we returned to the ABC.

August 31: We left the camp at 4:00am and began with route paving work soon after 6:00am. Angle of the ice wall was 70 – 80 degree. After 120 m rope length climb, the angle became gentle. We further ascended three pitches right-upwards and then traversed one pitch. As in five pitches including the first pitch fix ropes were finished, we descended. Presumably further two or three pitches would need fixing ropes.September 1: Rest day. Takayama joined us safely.

September 2: To the summit of PT6165.We left the camp at 1:30am and started climbing at 3:00am. From a point which was reached after the 5th pitch on August 1, we climbed straight-upwards 100 m rope length and the next 50 m led us to the ridge. All of us felt happy as if we would have accomplished our goal since the summit was close to our sight. After rest for a while we gasped negotiating screes and hard/solid snow for the final pitch. We stood atop PT6165 at 7:20am. Who could suppose to encounter such unbelievable scene? To our great surprise we discovered remains like old and ragged prayer flags.


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Attempt on PT6045

September 3: Rest day.September 4: To the second objective PT6045.We left the BC for the ABC to assault PT6045. The ABC was set up at about 5,400 m. We carefully watched and inspected the wall to tackle. Climbing gears were checked for the sake of safety. Presuming that the route must be on an ice wall, we reduced snow-bars to minimum whilst we carried all of screw pitons. We spent overnight in the new ABC.

September 5: We climbed snow wall right from the ABC. Avoiding crevasses we traversed left-upwards to reach the east ridge. As snow changed to ice, traversing became difficult. So we ascended straight-upwards. As angle got larger, we used a rope for the following three pitches to the ridge. During rope work the sunrise reflected snow face. The spot of valley shape was exposed to frequent falling rocks. Water streams were seen. A view upwards from the ridge taught us that there were two crevasses and to avoid them we must be forced to make a long detour. Our protections and ropes at the moment were insufficient to overcome this section, we once returned to the ABC. The ice wall of PT6165 faced north. As it received sunshine, however, ice conditions deteriorated. We discussed how to solve these problems such as falling rocks, crevasses, night climbing and risk of fewer protections.September 6: We finally reached a conclusion to give up further attempt because of lack of gears and provisions and danger of night climbing although there had been an opinion that there would be a narrow possibility if we use all the ropes we had. In the heartland of Zanskar there remain many alluring and fasciating virgin peaks that need high climbing skills and experiences.

September 7: Rest day.September 8 – 28: Caravan on the way back – Leh – New DelhiIt is noted that a local agent, Zanskar Trek in Leh provided us with timely and quality services for our expedition. We saw hives of rapid development in the remote borderlands in Zanskar September 29: Return to Japan

Editor Nakamura’s Supplements

Mr. Sakamoto wrote his record 2011 on the Japanese Alpine News vol. 13, 2011. The following is an extraction of the part relating to the above JAC students’ ascent and attempt.

Exploration 2011 of Hidden Virgin Peaks Lenak Nala and Giabul Nala of Zanskar South, Indian Himalaya

（KIMIKAZU SAKAMOTO）

August 23rd: 6:10/Lenak Nala BC – 7:30/Junction of left and right branch – 8:55/Plateau of right branch (4,757 m) – 12:00 / Lenak Nala Right Branch Base Camp 5,040 m, M33-07-37.6, E77-04-06.8).We walked on the right side of Lenak Nala and reached the junction of left and right branch. It was rather easy walk for us to go up on the grassy slope on the right side of the river, looking the water fall on our left side. Then, we went up on the right side of several moraines in Lenak Nala Right Branch. After crossing the stream of the right branch to the left, we reached our camp site near Glacier Lake.August 24th: 6:50/Lenak Nala Right Branch BC – 9:20/Glacier 5,245 m (N33-07-18.1, E77-03-06.1)


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– 12:00/BC.We went to 1st Glacier of Lenak Nala right branch. Over the glacier lake, we could see P6020 (L8) and P6165 (L10) which was protected by steep icy wall. After walking on the moraine, we saw the rocky mountain P6140 (L9) in the right side of 1st glacier. On our left side, there was P6045 (L11) which had icy steep wall. As we could see four unknown 6,000 m peaks, we went down to our BC because the weather was getting worse.


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In the period between August 3rd and 31st, 2012, in the Khane Valley, Pakistan, took place the second stage of the Bulgarian Khane Valley Expedition, entitled Khane Valley 2012. This year, the team included Doychin Boyanov, Mihail Mihaylov, Nikolay Petkov and Tervel Kerelov. After a detailed study of the information gathered in 2011, the first three members decided to make an attempt to climb Levski Peak and the Grey Tower. Tervel chose to ascend independently Peak 23 – situated in immediate vicinity of the Khane Pass.

The first, exploration stage of the Khane Project took place last year, between September 5th and 28th, 2011. During that phase, we took the GPS coordinates of the main sites, and collected extensive photo and video material. We named a number of summits, unnamed to that moment. Details are published on the Japanese Alpine News Vol. 13, 2012. In 2012, in a two-day alpine-style ascent on August 13th and 14th, we climbed the virgin Levski Peak (5,733 m) on a difficult technical route on mixed rock-and-ice terrain. This summit is the closest one to Shingu Chatpa (Great Tower, 5,910 m). Both are situated on the main ridge dividing the Khane and Nangma Valleys. A week later, on August 20th, Nikolay Petkov and Doychin Boyanov made the first ascent of another virgin summit – the Grey Tower (5,435 m). This summit is situated on the opposite ridge, which divides the Khane Valley from the next valley to the south.

Chronology of the Expedition

3 – 4 August: The main participants – N. Petkov, D. Boyanov and M. Mihaylov – left Sofia Airport and arrived at Benazir Bhutto Airport in Islamabad. T. Kerelov joined the expedition with a flight from Dusseldorf.5 August: Flight from Islamabad to Skardu. Organizational meeting with Jasmine Tours – the agency attending to the needs of the expedition. Buying products and packaging luggage in 25 kg pieces.6 August: Leaving with two SUVs for Khane Village. Spending the night at Abbas᾽s home.7 August: Distributing the luggage between porters and starting on the trek to the base camp. The same day the base camp was built at 4,080 m, at the First Terrace site. Since 2010, the camp is known as Boulder Camp.7 – 11 August: Organizing the base camp. Exploring the access routes for the ascent of Levski Peak. On 9 and 10 August, D. Boyanov had fever and spent most of the time in the base camp.11 August: M. Mihaylov and N. Petkov carried some equipment to the Fourth Khane Cirque in the valley᾽s North Ridge and spent the night there, having built a camp at 5,050 m. 12 August: D. Boyanov joined the 5,050 m camp with some additional provisions and equipment. 13 August: The group got up at 4.00 a.m. and began preparations for the ascent of Levski Peak᾽s western face. Tervel Kerelov left for the Khane Glacier᾽s Western Bend, located at about 5,000 m, in order to organize a food and equipment depot.14 August: Having spent a hard night on the western face of Levski Peak, the whole team reached the summit at 10.00 a.m., after some mixed-terrain climbing. The summit᾽s exact altitude was measured – being 5,733 m above sea level. Starting at 11.00 a.m., the team made ten 50-metre abseils to reach

DOYCHIN BOYANOV, NIKOLAY PETKOV, MICHAIL MICHAILOV

Bulgarian Karakoram Expedition 2012Khane Valley – Big Walls Project Phase II


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the firn gully below; then, with some down-climbing, reached the 5,050 m camp at 5.30 p.m. For the abseil points, we used mainly webbing or rope slings, and also 6 pitons and one ice screw. At 6.00 p.m. the group, laden with heavy packs, started towards the base camp, which they reached around 8.30 p.m.15 – 16 August: Rest in the base camp.

17 August: M. Mihaylov, D. Boyanov and N. Petkov started towards the Grey Tower to explore the access route for the ascent of its eastern face. At the so-called Little Saddle, at 4,900 m, M. Mihaylov decided to go back. After traversing a dangerous icy slope, a rocky zone and another steep icy slope, D. Boyanov and N. Petkov reached the Bulgarian Saddle at 5,107 m. From there, they took photos of Grey Tower᾽s east face and traced a possible route for the ascent. They were back in the base camp by 9.00 p.m.18 August: Rest and luggage preparation in the base camp.

19.August: N. Petkov and D. Boyanov started for Grey Tower᾽s east face.T. Kerelov left for the camp at 5,000 m hoping to try an ascent on Peak 23. He also had the idea to collect some information about Peak 22.1 and Peak 22.2.After a five-hour climb on mixed rock-and-ice terrain, N. Petkov and D. Boyanov reached the Bulgarian Saddle. They mounted a tent and rested there till 2 p.m. At 2.30 p.m. they made an exploration ascent on the first 300 meters of the route.6.00 p.m.: On the radio, they learned that T. Kerelov had gotten sick at the 5000 m camp and was on the way back to the base camp feeling very ill. The ascent of Peak 23 was stopped.8.00 p.m.: T. Kerelov reached the base camp.20 August: After sunrise, with perfect weather conditions, at 6.00 a.m. N. Petkov and D. Boyanov started for a lightweight-style ascent of the Grey Tower. After 13 rocky pitches with difficulties between 5 and 7 (UIAA grade), they reached the summit. The altitude measured was 5,435 m above sea level. At 10.30 they started on the way back to the saddle, which they reached with 13 abseils in bad weather conditions. At the abseil points 26 pitons were left. Due to the high risk of stone fall in the couloir between Meligo Summit and the Gray Tower, the climbers spent the night at the saddle.21 August: 3.30 a.m. Getting up and lifting the camp. 5.30 a.m. Leaving for the base camp. During the descent in the icy couloir, 200 m of rope was left. At 9.00 N. Petkov and D. Boyanov were back in the base camp.22 August: Due to depletion of some components of the equipment (pitons, webbing, rope), low emotional motivation for new ascents and accumulated fatigue, the decision was made to discontinue the expedition.23 August: 9.00 a.m. Leaving the base camp towards Khane Village with 20 porters. The village was reached in 4 hours.2.00 p.m. Leaving for Skardu with two SUVs. The town was reached after 6 hours of difficult traveling and the breakdown of one of the SUVs.24 – 28 August: The road to Islamabad was blocked by landslide. The few possible flights were not

Base Camp


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enough to transport everybody waiting to travel from Skardu to the capital. It was impossible to leave Skardu at the moment. At 9.00 p.m. on the 26 August, T. Kerelov left for Islamabad by land hoping to catch his flight to Istanbul on the 28 August.28 August: With police and airport security assistance in the conditions of public unrest, the group finally reached Skardu airport. After hard three-day travel, T. Kerelov arrived in Islamabad (missing his flight). The whole group gathered in the Bulgarian embassy.

Description of the Newly Ascended Summits and Routes

Levski Peak, 5,733 m

Levski Peak is one of the central summits along the mountain᾽s main ridge, dividing the Khane and Nangma Valleys. It has a steep face of mixed terrain, which is the reason for us to choose this summit as an objective for our ascents.

To the northwest from Levski Peak, on the main ridge are situated the well-known Shingu Chatpa summit and Great Tower (5,910 m), divided by a low saddle. This summit has been ascended two times from the Nangma Valley. To the south, Levski Peak borders a sharp, rocky col that divides it from the neighboring Rila Peak – a beautiful summit, difficultly accessible from all sides. There is also a smaller arête between them. Farther still, is the majestic Tangra Tower, with almost vertical walls from all sides.Across the cirque, on a side ridge descending towards the Khane Valley from Shingu Chatpa, is situated the imposing, like a gothic cathedral, Sofia Peak, almost as tall as Levski Peak.The slopes of Levski Peak facing the Nangma Valley also form an almost vertical wall. There is no way to reach the summit from any side without the use of refined alpine techniques.

The photo above shows all summits’ altitudes according to the new information gathered by the expedition in 2012.


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The Bulgarian Route on the west face, 650 m, M6, AI4, 6a, opened in the l ightweight s tyle with one bivouac. As intermediate anchors, stoppers, cams and ice screws were used. The route was climbed in 14 50-metre pitches. The abseils follow the route or go somewhat to the left.The summit itself is a sharp crest of rock and snow, t opped by an incredibly regular rocky pyramid, where one can conveniently sit.

Two scenes from the ascent of Levski 5,733 m


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Grey Tower, 5,435 m (name given by the Bulgarian expedition)

This peak is impressive with its regular, sharp outlines, seen from all possible observation points in the Khane Valley. For this reason we chose it as our second objective. Moreover, the route we chose for our ascent goes through the so-called Bulgarian Saddle.

The Bulgarian Saddle, at 5,107 m, is a wide rocky col between the Grey Tower and Meligo Peak to the north, which makes the approach from the Khane Valley extremely dangerous. To the south, its slopes descend more gently towards a neighboring short valley and would be the best access route for a possible ascent of Meligo Peak. There is a comfortable, sheltered grassy saddle under the wall. Our bivouac (as can be seen on the 3rd photo in this article) was situated on the col itself, in the vicinity of several névés. The place is relatively safe but towards Meligo Peak there is a massive serac that can threaten a larger area in case of falling.

The West Face Route, 600 m, AI3, 6b (predominantly 5b/c), was opened in the lightweight style with one bivouac on the Bulgarian Saddle. The access route traverses 300 m of ice, snow and rocky zones, and should be made before 8.00 a.m. (risky). From there, there are 13 50-metre pitches to the top. As intermediate anchors, only stoppers and cams were used. Each belay point was equipped with two pitons. The descent is realized with 11 abseils on the route, plus 80 meters down-climbing.

Panorama from the top of the Grey Tower, 5,435 m. Levski, Rila, Tangra, 23 and Aghil Peaks are visible in the background.

The Grey Tower with the route outline (the left-hand photo shows the upper part, and the right-hand one the lower part).


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The expedition membersLeft to right: upper row, our cook and guide Fida, Nikolay Petkov, Tervel Kerelov and Mihail Mihaylov; lower row, the aide Gulam and Doychin Boyanov

AcknowledgementsOrganizers: Alpine Club Planinets and Sports Club Vertical World

View to Hidden Tower & unnamed peak.

Expedition members


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The Baimang Xueshan (Snow Mountains) have been known by early explorers, missionaries, geologists, plant hunters and musk traders since more than a century ago as it is located very close to a historical trade path to Tibet from Yunnan in the borderland of northwest Yunnan and southeast Tibet. A plant hunter, Frank Kingdon – Ward wrote short paragraphs on Peima Shan several times in his book “The Land of the Blue Poppy” a narrative of his first journey to the Deep Gorge Country (now called as Three Rivers Gorges – Yangtze / Mekong / Salween rivers) in 1911.A geologist, J. W. Gregory, an authority of the Great Lift Valley in Africa, also described his views on the said mountains in “To the Alps of Chinese Tibet” (1,922 journey). However, it is rather surprising that such famous mountains have long remained unclimbed until 2012.


First Ascent of Baimang Xueshan(Paima or Peima Shan)

―Yungling on Mekong-Yangtze Divide in Yunnan―

River and mountain system of Deep Gorge Country – NW Yunnan and SE Tibet


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The Baimang Xueshan白芒雪山 (Paima or Peima Shan白馬山 ) have been first scaled by a Chinese party. The following is a summary of the ascents from web-site www.8264.com (戸外資料図 ) and Nakamura᾽s note and photographs.During October 2nd to 19th, 2012, a party led by Sun Bin孙斌 , a headmaster of the China Mountain Outdoor School中国巅峰戸外運動学校 succeeded in the first ascents of five peaks of the Baimang Xueshan (Paima or PeimaShan) of Yunling Range on the Yangtze-Mekong Divide, Hengduan Mountains, Yunnan Province.

Peak map of Meili Snow Mountains and Baimang Snow Mountains


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[From left to right]Route 1Douchubomubadeng (多楚博姆巴登峰 ) 5,466 m、III/AI2/M3/snow40° /1,000 m（via glacier）The route has been named as Jinnaizhichi “近在咫尺” (Goal is very close), first ascent.

The climbing routes are shown on the picture below.


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The summiteers are two members of Li Zan李赞、Zhao Xingzheng赵兴政

Route 2Nameless peak 5,288 m、III/AI2/M2+/snow50° /climbing height 800 m (via glacier)The route has been named as Erzhichu (two virging peaks) “二之处” , first ascent.The summiteers are five members of:-Li Zan李赞、Zhao Xingzheng赵兴政、Zhu Ruilan祝瑞兰 (F)、Haung Chao黄超、Jiang Zhenyu蒋震宇

Route 3Nameless peak 5,295 m、III/5.8/M3/snow40° /climbing height 800 m (via glacier)The route has been named as “Respect of freedom” , first ascent.The summiteers are two members of Li Zan李赞、Zhao Xingzheng赵兴政 .

Route 4Nameless peak 5,250 m、Alpinerock5.9/m5/snow50° /climbing height 800 m, ice and rock mixedpitches 200 mThe route has been named as “sunshine appears always behind snow” “阳光总在风雪后” , first ascent.The summiteers are two members of Sun Bin孙斌、Xiao Qiang小强 .

Route 5Zhalaqueni South Peak 扎拉雀尼南峰 5,420 m、Alpinerock5.9/m4/snow50° /climbing height 700 m (from a road)The route has been named as Road of Growth “成长之路” (成長の道 ), first ascent.The summiteers are two members of Sun Bin孙斌、Tuo Dawei脱大为

Nakamura᾽s Note:In 2006 a Chinese party, Jing Brothers, attempted on Zhalaqueni扎拉雀尼 and reached 5,200 m. Their route is shown on the following picture. The panorama of the west face taken from the Meili Snow Mountains on the Mekong-Salween Divide is also shown


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The northernmost mountain massif of the Cordillera Blanca, in the Peruvian Andes, is given various names according to different publications: Cordillera de Huarica (sic), Cordillera de Conchucos, Cordillera Norte, Pallasca Area in Northern Ancash, era Pacra Cordillera de Rosco or Rosko.

In his guide book Yuraq Janka, John Ricker states that: «The current name for the mountain massif has been in use at least since 1929 government surveys published as part of the Hoja Corongo (7c). Others (Sievers 1914, Schlagentweit 1911) claim that the range is more properly known as the Cordillera de Conchucos.»

BRIEF GEOGRAPHIC TERMINOLOGICAL DISTINCTION

IT IS IMPORTANT TO DISTINGUISH BETWEEN THE TERMS CORDILLERA, MOUNTAIN MASSIF, MOUNTAIN GROUP, SUMMIT AND PEAK. FOR GEOGRAPHIC CONVENIENCE, THE PERUVIAN CORDILLERA BLANCA IS DIVIDED INTO DIFFERENT MASSIFS. THE MASSIFS GENERALLY NAMED AFTER THEIR HIGHEST SNOW-CLAD MOUNTAIN (OR NEVADO). FOR EXAMPLE, THE CHAMPARA MASSIF, THE SANTA CRUZ MASSIF, THE HUANDOY MASSIF, ETC. EACH MASSIF IS DIVIDED INTO MOUNTAIN GROUPS AROUND A SUMMIT. FOR EXAMPLE, ONE CONSIDERS THAT SANTA CRUZ MASSIF CONTAINS FIVE GROUPS: THE QUITARAJU-ALPAMAYO, THE PUCAHIRCA, THE TAULLIRAJU, THE PUCARAJU AND THE SANTA CRUZ GROUP. THE SUMMIT OF A MOUNTAIN IS ALWAYS THE MAIN PEAK, THAT IS THE HIGHEST. THE SUMMIT OF THE PUCAHIRCA GROUP (6,046 M) IS NEVADO PUCAHIRCA NORTE I. EACH SUMMIT MAY HAVE SEVERAL PROMINENT PEAKS – SUCH AS PUCAHIRCA SUR (6,039 M), PUCAHIRCA CENTRAL (6,014 M) AND PUCAHIRCA NORTE II (CA. 6,025 M) –, OTHER SECONDARY SUMMITS – PUCAHIRCA NORTE III (5,919 M), LOCATED ON THE NW RIDGE OF NORTE II –, MINOR PEAKS – P.5,858 M, ON THE NW RIDGE OF PUCAHIRCA NORTE III – AND FORESUMMITS,

Cordillera de Conchucos or Acuán Range?

On July 8, 2012 I went to this range with Consuelo Amorós. Our friend Doris Walter had visited the area two weeks before with Magno Camones, a veteran mountain guide from Huaraz, Edwin Jamanka, a porter, and William Gamarra, a muleteer from Cusca. Doris, an anthropologist with a

ANTONIO GOMEZ BOHORQUEZ

Peru Andes–Acuan (Akwan) Massif orCordillera de Rosco

Translated by Doris Walter

1 The correct word is Huarirca (and not Huarica); comunidad de la provincia de Corongo. 2 The term summit may be relative to the area mentioned here. The summit of Nevado Alpamayo is 5,947 m

high, its northern foresummit is a shoulder not prominent enough to be considered a peak. The summit of the Santa Cruz range (6,259 m) is Nevado Santa Cruz Grande. The summit of the Cordillera Blanca is Nevado Huascarán Sur, at 6,768 m.

3 Less important high points before a summit.


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passion for climbing in the Andes as well as for the Quechua language, besides climbing the main glaciated peak – for the second time after 17 or 18 years –, also investigated, amongst other things, the Places names in the area. Her valuable findings and public relations greatly facilitated our arrival in Cusca and our approach to the base camp at Laguna Akwan or Acuán (in Spanish spelling). In Ichiro Yoshizawa᾽s fieldnotes on the 1965 Japanese expedition published in The American Alpine Journal (AAJ) 1966, pages 167 – 168, this lake was given the name «Akhuanccocha».

All of the nevados of «Rosco» are included in the Hoja Pallasca 17 – h of theInstituto Geográfico Nacional (IGN) del Perú, and the District of Conchucos is located in the Province of Pallasca. Nevertheless, these nevados are closer to the Municipality of Cusca (in the Province of Corongo) than that of Conchucos. On the other hand, the inhabitants of Cusca do not know of a mountain named «Rosko». They name the highest ice-covered mountain «Acuán», as well as the lake located at the foot of the western side of the mountain. We are referring to the same mountain that was climbed and named Rosco Grande by the Sophia Alpine Club expedition of Jochi University on 7 September 1965.

Following Doris᾽ investigations, the word Rosco apparently comes from «Russgu», «Rusgu» o «Rusgo», which according to one informant is the name of a lake on the eastern side of the range. Others, however, informed her that Rusgu Grande is the name of a corral, situated in an area which belongs to the Comunidad campesina de Huarirca. It is quite probable that Rosco or Rosko is a corruption of the word Rusgo, which has no known meaning and is derived from llajuash or Quechua of Corongo.

UPON CONSULTING MAPS OF NORTHERN PERU, EVERYTHING SEEMS TO INDICATE THAT THE MILITARY CARTOGRAPHERS NAMED THE SMALL CORDILLERA, OR LARGE MOUNTAIN MASSIF, AFTER LAKE LOCATED TO THE NORTHWEST OF THE MAIN SUMMIT AND TO THE SOUTHWEST OF P CA 5000M OR EASTERN PEAK OF CUELLO CONDOR. THE LAKE CORRESPONDS TO «LAGO NUMERO 34» ON THEMAPA ÍNDICE DE LAGUNAS DE LAS CORDILLERAS ROSCO Y PELAGATOS (F. H-MIL-004-04) 1:100.000. THIS MAP, PRINTED BY ELECTROPERU (HUARAZ, 1975), WAS «PREPARED» IN THE SECCION DE TOPOGRAFIA Y DIBUJO DEL DEPARTAMENTO DE ESTUDIOS BASICOS DE LAGUNAS, UNDER THE SUPERVISION OF ALCIDES AMES MARQUEZ.

The later Inventario de glaciares del Perú, published by Hidrandina (Huaraz, 1988) and also coordinated by Ames, reduced Rosco᾽s geographic category: «For the purpose of inventory, we have included in the Cordillera Blanca the nevados of Pelagatos and the Rosko group, due to the fact that their glacial areas are too small to be considered independant units such as cordilleras».

Cordillera is a geographic term which is often used incorrectly by local people. Perhaps for this reason the Sketch Map of the Cordillera Norte published in Sangaku,1966 (vol 61), p.155, shows as the «Cordillera Yanacocha» what in reality is the ridgeline of Flerorumi , which runs parallel to the west of the ridgeline of Nevado Acuán or Rosco.

4 The Province of Pallasca is adjacent and north of the Province of Corongo.5 P ca 5,000 m*, to the east of Cuello Cóndor, was given the name Nevado Tanikawa (5,240 m) in the

Revista Peruana de Andinismo y Glaciología (RPAG) nº 7, as well as in a sketch drawn up by César Morales Arnao, and published in the Peruvian Times (Lima, Perú) in 1965.

6 The small Pelagatos group is located to the northeast of the Acuán or Rosco range.


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MOST OF THE LAKE NAMES SITUATED BELOW THE EASTERN FLANK OF FLERORUMI AND ON THE WESTERN SIDE OF NEVADO ACUAN, REGISTERED ON MAPS, ARE DIFFERENT FROM THE NAMES USED IN THE MUNICIPALITY OF CUSCA. THE LOCALS INDICATED TO DORIS THAT THESES LAKES ARE CALLED RUTU, WINCHUS, ACUAN, PATO COLORADO HEMBRA AND PATO COLORADO MACHO. FABIAN DOMINGUEZ VEGA, FROM CUSCA, WHO KNOWS THE RIO «QEROBAMBA» VALLEY VERY WELL, ASSURES THAT THESE NAMES ARE CORRECT.

ASCENTS IN THE ACUAN OR ROSKO RANGE

THE MEMBERS OF THE 1965 JAPANESE EXPEDITION, LED BY ATSUMI HOSONO, INCLUDED MOTOYOSHI SATOI, YOSHIHIKO TAKAYAMA, YASUFUSA YOKOCHI, SHUZO KINOSHITA AND THE PORTER PABLO MORALES. THEY REACHED FIVE UNCLIMBED PEAKS IN THE RANGE:

– NEVADO CUELLO CONDOR (5,072 M) CLIMBED BY TAKAYAMA AND YOKOCHI ON 10 SEPTEMBER 1965– P ca. 5,000 m to the east of Cuello Cóndor climbed by Morales and Satoi on 10 September 1965– P ca. 4,990 m to the south of the eastern summit of Cuello Cóndor reached by ¿Takayama and Yokochi? on 9 September 1965― Nevado Rosco Grande (ca. 5,188 m) climbed by Hosono, Kinoshita, Takayama and Yokochi on 7 September 1965― P ca. 5,000 m to the north of Nevado Rosco Grande climbed by ¿Hosono and Kinoshita? on 9 September 1965

Apart from these Japanese ascents, few climbs have been registered in publications dealing with the mountains and glacial peaks of the Acuán range. Besides paleontologist OttoSchlagentweit᾽s ascent (Deutsche Alpenzeitung, 1911, XI, J. 4) of an unlocated summit, Julio César Sotelo, a mountaineer from Huaraz, believes that an Italian expedition visited the area and reached the summit of Acuán, although he does not remember names or dates. The Peruvian mountain guide Jorge Martel also climbed the mountain. Magno Camones and Doris Walter climbed twice: their second ascent took place in June 2012, but they do not remember the date of their first climb; it was probably in 1994.

7 Flerorumi is a rocky peak with a large cairn, next to two stone windbreaks.8 Rutu is the first small lake (which is practically dried up from May to October) that one encounters on the

trail leading from Cusca to laguna Winchus.9 According to RPAG nº7, 1964 – 1965, pp.45-46, the expedition members included Atsumi Hosono,

Motoyoshi Sato, Yoshiro Takayama, Shuzo Kinoshita, Yasufusa Yocochi and Segeyuki Okajima. The tourist expert Kenji Nakamura acompanied them in Peru as a translator.

10 The heights of these peaks are given by Ricker in his guide book Yuraq Janka.11 Document translated and personal communication from Evelio Echevarría.


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Acuan Nev. Cuello Condor

Acuan-Querobamba River

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Old, New and Rare Mountaineering Books and early Original Mountain Paintings for saleLes Alpes Livres • Mountains and Mountaineering in Art and LiteratureTony Astill F.R.G.S. • ‘Arcadia’ • Hazel Grove • Ashurst • Southampton • SO40 7AJ • U.K.

Neil Armstrong considered his first step on the moon to be a lesser achievement than the first ascent of Mount Everest. Celebrating the 60th anniversary this year it is a good time to reflect on the opportunities enjoyed by Hillary and Tenzing. Tenzing’s chance came in 1935 when Tilman hired 15 porters at the Planters Club in Darjeeling for the Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition, but two being later rejected left the way clear for replacements. Eric Shipton wrote 'but there was one Tibetan lad of 19, a newcomer with an infectious smile. His name was Tensing Norkay. 'Dan Bryant, the tough and skilful New Zealand ice climber in the team described him 'Most obliging, willing and helpful in camp, he is a delightful chap with a keen sense of humour. He is one of the first porters I would take were I going on another expedition. He will make an excellent climber with a little more experience. 'Dan’s own charm had it’s own effect on Shipton – 'Dan’s presence went a long way to making that trip. We all loved him’.In 1951 a 4 man New Zealand Himalayan Expedition was climbing in the Garhwal Himalaya. Riddiford and Cotter were original members. Lowe had been invited to join and he in turn suggested Hillary, who was climbing in the Bernese Oberland, writing to him offering a place, as others were not able to go. Lucky for Hillary that he had met Lowe!As leader of the 1951 Reconnaissance Shipton, fondly remembering Bryant, had sent a telegram to the N.Z. base in Rhaniket. 'Invite any two of you to join my party if you can get own permission enter Nepal, bringing own food and supplies.' 'The chance of a lifetime' as Lowe put it, but which two? Hillary was one and became the next New Zealand mountaineer to impress Shipton, in so doing booking his ticket to Everest, where he would join up with Tenzing to climb the highest mountain in the world.

'Mount Everest: The Reconnaissance 1935. The Forgotten Adventure' by Tony Astill (published privately) awarded Best Book Mountaineering History at the Banff Mountain Festival 2006. Some copies still available £30 + post

Please email astill.tony@gmail if you would like to receive regular monthly details of mountaineering books for sale o r v i s i t m y w e b s i t e w w w .mountaineeringbooks.org which offers an excellent choice of Mountaineering Books for sale and fine, early and original Mountain paintings for sale can be viewed on my other website www.mountainpaintings.org


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In Europe, Judo and other Japanese martial arts are very popular sports. The fact that we salute the opponent before and after each game can be a great astonishment, but it is a first step into Japanese culture: it is not “me” who is strong and wins the game, it is thanks to the opponent that the game takes place where one᾽s abilities can be expressed… For Europeans it might be a “new” way of seeing things, but I think it is the core of Japanese philosophy of life, which can be found in almost all Japanese culture. We can even find this philosophy in mountaineering:Why do we climb mountains?

In Europe it is because “we” are here, the human is strong enough to conquer the mountains. It was also in ancient time a way to show God᾽s greatness, greater than the force of nature. Some devotees risked their life to conquer mountains and make it God᾽s territory. However, in Japan, one way of thinking is “because there was a mountain…” : The mountain is here for a certain reason, it is the will of the mountain itself to let human climb, so they climbed by faith, deifying the mountain, and could gain strength or good harvest as a reward.

In Japan, mountains are not only the highest place on Earth, but it is more of all the places closest to heaven. Therefore, historically, mountains have long been deified more than climbed (some were even forbidden to enter, especially women). Mt Ishuzuchi, the highest mountain in Shikoku Island, for example has a shrine on his top, from where we can revere the actual highest point (Mt Tengudake). The devotees usually don’ t go further. Moreover, on the first day of the mountain opening festival (1st July), women are not allowed to enter the mountain…

JOHANNA FICATIER

Alpinism and Japanese Mountains Culture― Hakusan Kamikake Path ―

Mt Ishizuchi: (Left) Tengudake from the top shrine (Right) Whole Ishizuchi from the worshipping Shrine


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Esoteric Buddhism arrived in Japan in the 8th century, it matched perfectly with this Japanese mountain faith, and a new movement was born: Shugendo. The mountain᾽s Gods where integrated in the wide range of divinities revered. The practicers where called wether Shugenja or Yamabushi. Among many of the acetic practises were included isolation and meditation in the mountain, such as acending worshipping, sometimes in very dangerous ways... Some of the most extreme Yamabushis even choose to live and practise in the nature…Horagai, a conch shell, was used during the ceremonies, but also for communication in the mountain. At that time, sacred mountains in Japan where full of Horagai᾽s sound…

In 17th century, Shugendo was officially suppressed as a religion, and Shugenja were forced to follow an official Buddhism movement (whether Shingon or Tendai sect).Moreover, in 19th century, during the Meiji restoration, Shinto was declared the official state religion and was separated from Buddism. Shugendo and mountain practices decreased dramatically.However, Shugendo fitting very well with japanese religion and culture, it is still practised in some mountains in Japan (mains are Oomine, Ishiduchi, Haguro…), being part of Shingon or Tendai Buddhism.

Mt Hakusan (White Mountain), a 2,702 m high mountain in Hokuriku region, is one of the three sacred mountains in Japan (with Mt Fuji and Mt Tateyama). It has been deified since ancient time, from the prefectures of Ishikawa, Fukui and Gifu, where it gives life, by water through river in each.After the first climb by a devotee, great master Taicho, in 8th century, a path from each prefecture was established, they were called “Zenjodo” , which means “path of meditation” .

Although at that time there were many Yamabushi practising on those “Zenjodo” , and the sound of Horagai was usually heard in Mt Hakusan, those mountain practices tended to disapear.Whereas it is said that it is by the “Echizen Zenjodo” that the first devotee, monk Taicho, opened the mountain, it is nowadays the shortest remaining path. A good access to the starts points: Ichinose and Betto deai, establishment of “new paths” (Sabo and Kanko) makes it the path that most “trekkers” use.However, there is still 18km left for “Kaga Zenjodo” , and 19km for “Mino Zenjodo” , whereas unfortunately they are not used much.

Worshipping at Mt Ishizuchi


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The idea of the “Hakusan Ka-Mi kake trail” was to organize an event so as to make those historical paths known. Even if it is called “asceticism” , it is more to make people think about the feeling people had when climbing Mt Hakusan in ancient time than a real religious event… It is not neither a “trail” , since as explained above, the idea is not that “we” do a performance, it is to appreciate to have the chance to climb this wonderful mountain, to admire it from different angles and, maybe, to deify it…I had the occasion to take part in this very hard trail and walk those ancient paths. With my Horagai I tried to imagine and remember how and with which feeling the Japanese monks used to climb Mt Hakusan, or, to be exact, that Mt Hakusan let them climb…

Play Horagai to express gratitude to Hakusan for letting us climb…


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TIM (TATSUO) INOUE

Glaciers Receding in Kangri Garpo, Eastern TibetThe Climate Change of the Ata Glacier

Ruoni 6,882 m, highest peak in Kangri Garpo (east face) – Unclimbed

Lopchin 6,805 m first climbed by ACKU & China joint party in 2009 (east face)


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The Ata Glacier

As the Fig-1 shows the two streams of the Ata Glacier, south and north tongues, we can see well developed glaciers in the southeast Kangri Garpo Mountains. Heavy snowfall fosters and nourishes four glaciers having two principal streams over the ridge sharing watershed.

The Lhagu Glacier has about 31 km length whereas the Ata Glacier has about 28 km length. The south stream of the Ata Glacier has about 15 km length and the north stream has about 5 km length. Such long glaciers are seen only in the Karakorum Range.

What we saw in the Ata Glacier

The global warming accelerating glacial retreat began to affect climbing in the Himalaya. On the contrary, glaciers are growing in the Scandinavian Peninsula. Warming in winter takes place in high altitude of the Himalaya, but warming in summer is not observed.


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Even warming climate of winter cannot melt ice in high altitude over 5,000 m where glaciers exist and temperature is far below a freezing point. What is occurring on earth? Mountaineers’ observations on the spot would hopefully contribute to provide specialists with valued information for scientific research, analysis and elucidation.

We noticed the climate change in four times visits to the Ata Glacier in 2002, 2003, 2007 and 2009. One change is shrinkage of the Ata Glacier. We had forecasted heavy snowfall in 2002, 2003 and 2007, and it actually happened. In 2009 there was no such heavy snowfall. At Deposit Camp (DPC) 4,400 m we had daily snowfall but no cumulative snow on the glacier. We put tents on bare ice. Snow laid 130 cm on the glacier ice at Advance Base Camp (ABC) 4,600 m, around which unique climatic conditions are seen. The south branch of the Ata Glacier flows into the lower valley of 2,50 m altitude. When warm and dump wind blows upwards in the south glacier, clouds are generated near the ABC and it snows. But the DPC has the same conditions as the Camp 1 4,890 m. We could get water on the glacier ice.

Hanging ice cornices on the flanks of the Three Sisters (KG-1 [Ruoni], KG-2 [Lopchin] and KG-3) were felt to have shrunk in comparison with the past years. Supposedly climate is recently becoming drier in southeast Tibet. I read a report of a ski party to the Ata Kang Ka in autumn of 2006 and 2008. They enjoyed smooth down hill skiing on the glacier as the conditions were favorable in 2006. 2008 was different. The surging glacier was too bad to ski in 2008. A reconnaissance in 2007 resulted in no ski expedition in 2009.

Map of Fig-2 shows Lusho Lake. Fig-3 is a current image of Google Earth on which three lakes of Lusho are seen. Two additional lakes were born in a half century time. What happed on the end of South Tongue of Ata Glacier? As we did not go to the Ata Qu, we are unable to mention about how the glacier is receding. Here only a Google Earth image, Fig-4, of viewing the south tongue snout of the Ata Glacier is attached. It is likely that dead ice or debris and small lakes lie down in the valley and about 100 m depth of sinking glacier is visible. Approximately 3,400 m length of the tongue had already disappeared.


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10 Years Change of the Ata Glacier

Mr. Tamotsu (Tom) Nakamura provided a couple of pictures taken from the Hyona pass 4,450 m in 1999. I have pictures taken from the same pass in 2009. Fig-5 and Fig-6 are comparison of a decade change of the glacier. The three lakes of Lusho already existed in 1999. But the 2nd and 3rd lakes were smaller than those in 2009. The north snout of the Ata Glacier touched down to the 2nd lake in 1999, but the end moraine of the glacier snout had been formed in 2009. A part of the ice in the 2nd and3 rd lakes in


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1999 melted away in 2009. The depth of the Ata Glacier Tongue had become thin in 2009. I wonder that the 4th lake would be born in future on the right (southern side moraine) bank of the glacier.

The Kangri Garpo Mountains is in the front between wet–warm air zone (Bay of Bengal) and dry–cold zone (Southeast Tibet). Obviously the wet–warm air has recently been dominant and it would be probable that the climate change had caused the front to be unstable.


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The mountain range on the Salween-Mekong Divide stretches about 700 km from the Tibetan Plateau to the south and is divided into two parts, the Taniantaweng Shan in the north and the Nu Shan in the south. The Sichuan Tibet Highway (Southern route) from Sichuan to Tibet runs along the southern rim of the Tibetan Plateau and crosses the southern part of the Taniantaweng range over the pass Tongda La (5,008 m). To the north of this high pass there aren’ t any prominent peaks exceeding 6,000 m. In the south, however, soar Dungri Garpo (6,090 m) and the Damyon (6,324 m) massifs.

The latter is a, large and impressive mountain massif with two other 6,000 m peaks and many 5,800 – 5,900 m rock peaks. The local Tibetan inhabitants consider the Damyon to be a mountain of Goddess, sacred mountain. A complete panorama of its eastern flank can be admired from the pass Hong La (4,200 m), where the Yunnan Tibet Highway crosses the Mekong-Yangtze Divide. The massif is composed of many lofty crags/turrets/pinnacles but its glaciers have receded and are now small. All peaks remain unclimbed. To the south of the Taniantaweng Shan, the Nu Shan range continues down to south, where the most important part is stunning peaks of the Meil Xueshan (Snow Mountains) massif. They are well known as Ka-Kar-Po, Kang Karpo or Moirigkawagarbo (6,740 m), a holy peak and the other 20 peaks. We call the region as the Deep Gorge Country.


Mountains of Goddess – “Damyon” in Southeast TibetUntrodden Mighty Range on Salween–Mekong Divide in Gorge Country

Southeast face of Damyon 6,324 m viewed from near Yanjing (Yakalo) town


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A plant hunter, Frank Kingdon-Ward is the first explorer to have reconnoitred Damyon massif. He wrote in the preface of his narrative From China to Khamti Long (Captain F. Kingdon-Ward, Edward Arnold & Co., London 1924), of the author’s six months journey nearly one century ago stating from Lijiang through Northwest Yunnan / Southeast Tibet to KHamti Long of North Burma.

“My object in this book is to give some idea of the rapid changes which take place – physical, climatic, and botanical – as you travel westwards from Yangtze across that narrow strip of earth crust where the great rivers of South-east Asia escape from Tibet; and of the jungles which hide the headwaters of the mighty Irrawaddy, Burma’s river.”

Frank Kingdon-Ward is the first explorer to have reconnoitred Damyon massif. “Just opposite Yakalo (Nakamura’s note: Yanjing) across the Mekong, rises the snow-peak of Damyon, the summit of which is visible from the French Mission. It has a local reputation as a sacred mountain, merit being acquired by marching round it. I decided to make it my first objective in the search for plants and glaciers (not merit), and the last day of August we left Yakalo in splendid weather. I took only six mules, as we intended to be back in eight or ten days, and thus lightly equipped, we were able to travel rapidly. In order to reach Damyon, the snowy range between the Mekong and independent Tibet, it was first of all necessary to cross the Mekong, by the rope bridge just below the salts-wells. [The name of Damyon is probably of Moso origin; anyhow, it is neither Chinese nor Tibetan]”

Salt wells & Mekong River, Yanjing

Lagong Monastery near Yanjing (Yakalo)

Yanjing (Yakalo) Catholic Church

Yanjing (Yakalo) on Mekong River bank


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“It is an abrupt climb from the Mekong gorge to the crest of the ridge, over 3,000 feet above the river. We spent the night at a small house close by ruins of the monastery (Nakamura’s note: Lagong Monastery), and on the following day, September 1, started up the ravine which leads to Damyon.”“Presently we entered the forest and matters became difficult, for the trail was encumbered with fallen tree-trunks. But worse was to come, for as we ascended we came to screes and moraines, where there was practically no trail at all. In the days of Tibetan ascendancy, merit was acquired by any lama who made the circuit of the sacred Damyon.

“Huge screes, almost bare of vegetation, towered on either hand and were crowned by barer crags. Glaciers had once filled the valley, but now we were many miles from the foot of the nearest glacier. What had caused the ice to disappear? Was the climate warmer than formerly, or was the snow-fall much less? ------- In a high valley facing north, at about 17,000 feet above sea-level, I found a dying glacier – or rather dead glacier. For it was but a corpse, a wraith crouching at the very top of the valley, hidden from sight. There was no snowfield to nourish it and keep it alive; in a few decades at most no vestige of it would remain; whereas in the case of main Damyon glaciers, though they had retreated many miles and were still shrinking, they could never completely disappear unless Damyon itself fell down, since a peak nearly 20,000 feet must be always snow bound. This is an interesting fact. Dead glaciers! Could anything more droll”

“We camped at 16,000 feet by a small lake, the highest point at which firewood could be obtained from shrub Rhododendron. ------ At the head of the valley, only a few miles distant, where a large lake lay at the foot of the cliffs, was Damyon itself, crowned with eternal snow. Not a thousand feet above the lake, but hidden behind a rampart of moraines which it had pushed forward even in retreat, was the glacier. With much toil we climbed the steep and slippery pile to its foot, and secured the first photograph of it, to prove once more that the glaciers in this part of the world are in full retreat, and the North-western in Yunnan at least is indeed drying up.”

“We spent several days here, climbing to 17,000 feet, exploring and collecting plants; for on these ranges flowering plants are found at nearly 18,000 feet. In the spreading water at the head of the valleys stood hundreds of plants of a Primula allied to sinoplantaginea, the dark purple capsules showing their teeth in an autumnal grin; but the tightly packed seeds were still green.”“Damyon glacier ends 1,176 feet above the Tzaya glacier; the former, however, south face, whereas the latter faces north. The snow-line on Damyon is about 18,000 feet, it and the peak itself in the neighbourhood of 19,000 feet.”


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After nearly one century later, Nakamura’s party explored and made a reconnaissance of the western side of Damyon massif from the Yu Qu basin, a large tributary of the Salween River (Nu Jinag) in autumn of 2007. A record of this expedition was published on the Japanese Alpine News vol. 9 2008. This article mainly deals with introduction of challenging peaks in the Damyon massif with related maps. All the peaks are not attempted to climb by anyone else.


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Panorama (left) of Damyon massif east face viewed from Hong La 4,200 m

EAST FACE

PK B 5,800 m, PK A 5,800 m

PK D 5,961 m

PK B 5,800 m, PK A 5,800 m, Damyon 6,324 m

PK C 5,800 m, PK B 5,800 m


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Panorama (right) of Damyon massif east face viewed from Hong La 4,200 m

EAST FACE

Damyon main peak 6,324 m east face

6,045 m (left), 5,830 m (right) east face viewed from Hong La 4,200 m

6,045 m peak east face


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Damyon main peak 6,324 m southwest face viewed from Do village

SOUTHWEST FACE

Caravan marching up Do Qu to Damyon

Peak B 5,800 m southwest face from Do Qu

Damyon 6,324 m southwest face

Peak C 5,800 m southwest face from Do Qu


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NORTH FACE

Damyon 6,324 m north face from Jo Ba La

Peaks north of Damyon main peak (left), Dungri Garpo 6,090 m (right) northeast face

5,830 m (left). 6,045 m (right) north face


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Geuzong 5,841 m north face

Jiamutongnan 5,925 m south face

BEYOND DAMYON

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