for Tourists and Expats

FREENo. 7

Jan2013

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Also inside :

•What’supinJanuary2013

•Practicalinformation+

MapofYogyakarta

Ratu BokoRare species of street foodreDiscovering JogjaJavanese wisdomJogja & MeInterview with a decision maker

Dear readers, All of us here at Jogja Mag want to wish you a Happy New Year 2013! May love and success await you in the year ahead. To start the new year of with a bang we’ve

made Ratu Boko Kraton our first focus article from 2013. Ratu Boko Kraton is an amzing place and we have had many readers ask about it over the last year. Ratu Boko Kraton, also know as the third master peace of Yogyakarta is surrounded mystery and has a lot

to offers those who take the time to explore its wonders. Packed with history and full of beautiful panoramas, have fun reading the articles and then enjoy your trip !

The Editor

General InformationMonthly magazine

EditorialEditor in Chief : Sukamdani .S.Contributors : Patrick Vanhoebrouck Egbert Wits Mike Meijer Piotr Śmieszek David Geradts

Circulation : 5 000

Produced byPT CeriseJl SuryodiningratanGriya Surio Asri 2 No. A2 - YogyakartaTel. +62 274 372 971 - info@yogyabisnis.com

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Summary•ThemysteriousRatuBoko.5•OffroadMotorbike.8•Rarespeciesofstreetfood:Tahu.10•reDiscoverJogja.13•Javanesewisdom.15•JavaneseHealthSecrets.18•Jogja&Me-EpisodeVI.20•InterviewwithPakTeguh-RatuBoko.22•What’supinJanuary2013inYogyakarta.24•Practicalinformation.24•MapofYogyakarta.27

Edito

If Yogyakarta peaks as one of the top tourist destinations on Java, it is unquestionably because of its proximity to the temples of Borobudur and Prambanan. Fruit of a considerable legacy, both of these historic and cultural masterpieces testify to a significant and advanced civilization that shone over all of Central Java in antique times. Even so, twenty other sites have been restored in recent years and all represent sampling points of interest for those who wish to get off the beaten track and discover these remains hidden amongst the Javanese paddy fields.Though Prambanan is widely visited by tourists, few linger long enough to explore the surrounding sites. The first edition of Jogja Mag briefly spoke of temples found on the road to Prambanan (Candi Sari, Candi Kalasan, Candi Sambisariandand, and Candi Plaosan). Today, we propose you step out to an area about 2 km south of Prambanan. This area is equally filled with similar treasures unknown to the general public, and offers a rewarding excursion to the lucky visitor.

First Step - Ratu Boko KratonThe Kraton Ratu Boko site (the palace of king Boko) is an archaeological wonder; discovered in the late 18th century by Dutchman Van Boeckholtz. Only the chief doors and some restored foundations remains of this once sprawling palace

and surrounding grounds. Presumably, the walls and roofs of the buildings were made of wood and other organic materials. Only the stones forming the foundation for the central elements are visible today. The ruins cover over 250,000 m2, and consist of several areas and terraces. It is the third largest historic site around Yogyakarta after Borobudur and Prambanan and has the peculiarity of containing a set of secular and non-secular premises. The assumption is that Ratu Boko Kraton was foremost a dwelling place, with reception areas, swimming pools, wells and temples. The remains of the site show that this place was both Hindu and Buddhist, and that it served as a royal residence for a long period witnessing several dynasties.

Destination of the Month The mysterious Ratu Boko

What makes the magic of this site is the mystery that surrounds it. The little known history of this place comes from both archeological clues found on the site and legends that are attributed to it. Without even knowing the full story of this place, it will leave the curious traveler with a unique feeling, almost as disturbing as the vastness and variety of the site. It certainly leaves everyone with the freedom to imagine what this place could have been like in the past.

Second step - Candi BarongCandi Barong is a Hindu temple, which has the distinction of being dedicated to Vishnu and to his wife Dewi Sri, unlike other Hindu temples in the region mainly dedicated to Shiva. Candi Barong is divided into three expanding terraces. The first lower terrace is considered profane, the second semi profane while the third is a sacred area where two shrines top the whole.

Third step - Candi BanyuniboCandi Banyunibo lies 1 km south of Ratu Boko. Lost in the middle of rice fields, this Buddhist temple blends seamlessly with its surroundings and will leave an impression of serenity and completeness. Truly a gorgeous step on your trail.

Fourth step - Candi IjoCandi Ijo, the Green Temple, is perched at the top of a hill, 410m above sea level, and is thus the highest temple in the region of Yogyakarta. Perfect panorama vista for sunrises and sunsets, Candi Ijo consisted of 17 buildings divided into 11 terraces. If the major elements of this temple are Hindu (note the huge Shiva lingam), Buddhist symbolism scattered throughout the site suggests that at similarly served both religions, though perhaps at different times.

These four areas can serve as a base for the curious visitor who wishes to venture outside those core circuits traced by travel books. A little tip along the way; the sunsets from Ratu Boko are to die for ;-)

.JM

Usually our first reaction, as Western people, about outdoor sports in the tropics, especially when it comes to cycling is . . .

“NO WAY! MUST BE SOOOO HOT!”I will now tell you why this is not the right reaction, based on my 11 years of experience here, in the hot & steamy tropics. When I first moved to Indonesia, I brought my mountain bike with me. I’ve been cycling on and off road for 22 years now, never as a professional, but with lot of passion for sports and nature. I spend lots of my free time climbing these beautiful roads and small tracks on my bike, and for the last 6 or 7 years have also enjoyed using my “off road enduro” motorbike.

There are tracks everywhere around Jogja, and many will bring you up on top of the volcano, Mount Merapi, to a stunning 1100 meters high by mountain bike, or even more spectacular 1400 meters if you are brave enough on your “off road motorbike” (Careful! There are some very technical spots). You can even climb higher if you approach the east side of the volcano, coming from Multilan or Solo, between Mount Merapi and Mount Merbabu, at around 1700 meters altitude. It might seem easy, but don’t forget that Yogja has an average altitude

of 130 meters! Climbs, small and big, in volcano areas can bring you (often) to a steep grade of 15-25%. So, make sure you bring a bicycle with the correct gear. For the more experienced cyclists the minimum gear is 36-28 on a road bike and believe me, that’s really heavy sometimes!

Yes, Jogja is super busy with cars and motorbikes but don’t let that fool you. Just outside the Ring Road and other major roads it is full of good, small and quiet asphalt roads. But I have to be honest, there are so many small roads that it is not always easy to choose the ones with the good asphalt instead of the ones with the terrible asphalt because unfortunately there are still many of those, also. For on-road-bikers that bring a GPS with a map I advise not to choose the smallest roads (often with white color) and also not the largest roads (yellow and red). Usually the GPS has shows a different color for the roads in between (often grey or blue) and these are typically the better, quieter asphalt roads for cyclist.

For off road, it’s a different story. This is trial and error, and if you don’t have a friend or guide just go and try every track you see. Sometimes you will end up turning around your bicycle in the middle

Offroad Motorbike

of the rice field because the small track you are on suddenly stops. But who cares!? That’s the beauty of off road! If you are on a heavy motor for endurance trips be careful doing this, because it is not always that easy to turn around your big heavy bike when there is hardly any space. For motor enduro I really advise to always use a guide.

While cycling you don’t feel the heat as much as you might expect, but be aware of the sun (even when it seems cloudy) and protect your neck, nose, arms and ears with a good sun block, and where a cap or helmet. Last, but not least of my recommendations: make sure you leave early, best starting times are between 6am and 8am.

The nicest things about off road cycling in Indonesia is the people and, of course, the nature. It doesn’t matter through what village you go, the people will welcome you with warm smiles, applause or a sweet “good afternoon, Mr!” even when its 7 in the morning. I have many friends that joined us after living here for many, many years and their reactions are always the same; “we simply forgot how beautiful Indonesia is”. And the people also are helpful. If you are in trouble with your bicycle or motor bike and you keep your calm and smile they will help you, and a small workshop is always nearby, even in the most unexpected areas.

Because of the 2010 Merapi major eruption, “Mother Nature” sent us a complete new playground for our “off road motorbike” adventures. It’s difficult to imagine how violent it was, the destruction done by this eruption was massive. The reality is still harsh and cruel more than 2 years later, especially for those people and animals that were directly involved, but from a nature point of view it is also fascinating.

There were thousands of hectares of ashes and stones as far as you can see, not one tree with green leaves; it was a total moon-scape. Fortunately, nature is stronger than a single disaster, and the ashes from the eruption also brought incredibly fertile soils. After only 2 years, you can see life again. Grass, plants, trees, animals... All are back !

Besides the compelling volcano, the other beautiful tracks in the area are situated between Yogja and the sea. You will follow the rivers, and be amazed by some of the views along the way to the beach. It is 30 kilometers of pure pleasure from Imogiri to Parengtritis and well adapted for people who are just starting to cycle off road.

For the very brave guys and gals who like to torture themselves, you also have some nice hills with very steep short climbs. These are situated east and west of Yogja. You need a certain level of experience for this, and must wake up very early to avoid extremely high temperatures.

It’s difficult to map all the “off road trips” that I mentioned above. Maybe in the next issue I can tell you about specific trips that you can try in Java with a detailed map. My friends and I already did some amazing long trips between Jogja-Bali, Bandung-Yogya, Yogya-Bromo, etc. So I can say from experience, cycling on Java is awesome !

If you need some help for your next trip, don’t hesitate to contact me at geradts@indosat.net.id

You can have a look on YouTube under dave68jogja for some of our latest trips.

David Geradts

Dufu Tofu (a.ka.Tahu) is one of the richest in protein vegetarian foods eaten from the East to the West of the World. Buddhist monks, who do not believe in killing any living thing, call it “Meat from the field. Originally Asian, here in Indonesia Tahu can be found on almost every street corner.

Apparently introduced to the world by a Chinese monk more than 2,000 years ago, Tahu was successfully adopted and popularized throughout the whole Indonesian archipelago.

Today in the best restaurants in Paris, London or New York you can enjoy many healthy, and most importantly low-caloric, protein-rich soy foods. We can even say that we live in an era of ‘soy fashion’ that began in, and then spread out of, Asia.

The Javanese variation of Buddhist “meat of the fields” is the ever popular Tahu Sumedang. The unique technique used in the classic recipe consists of soaking soybeans overnight, grinding them thoroughly, cooking them, and then subjecting them to the coagulation process that is behind that signature pocket created in the middle of Tahu Sumedang after it is fried – the finished project looks a bit like a sponge with an empty middle.

These browned soy cheese cubes were invented and developed in the early twentieth century by the Chinese/Indonesian Ong Kino from the city of Sumedang, Java. Today it is one of the most popular snacks in the Javanese streets. Take it from me, Tahu Sumedang tastes best with bird’s eye chili, or topped with sambal as well as soy sauce.

Piotr Smieszek

“Rare species” of Javanese Street foodJavanese soy cheese - Tahu semendang

On this cloudy day at Taman Sari, Jogja’s original Bird Market, it remains quiet - except for a few wandering students taking in the historic surroundings on their way to ascending the steps that lie to the left of the cafe that I am approaching.

This well-worn stairway leads into the beautiful ruins of the landmark from which the Water Castle Cafe derives its’ name, the majestic structure known as the Istanah Air or Water Castle.

As I step through the entrance of the Water Castle Cafe, vibrant paintings and artful black & white photographs adorn the walls, all created by the man who at this moment is contentedly sipping his coffee as he waits for me to take a seat on the old wooden bench inhabiting the veranda of his cafe.

There is so much variety of art here, what is your view on the importance of art? “Art is more something to do with creativity. Even if you don’t draw, but if you combine two mediums and a new thing appears, this is art. When God creates a human, he also creates art. Creation becomes recreation, and in return, recreation becomes creation.”What is your opinion on historical relevance and the shift Jogja is undergoing into modernity? “Jogja develops more slowly into modernity, compared to some cities of industry, but it will still move into the future. This is bad; we are moving slowly away from tradition. Some people

should always maintain and keep a hold of the traditional spirit, and the most important aspect of this, is the spirit of genuine hospitality. I say this because the influence of tourism can be that this genuine hospitality becomes fake hospitality, centered on money instead of happiness.”So the Water Castle Cafe will not move with modern times, and remain as it is? “Yesterday a French couple, the man was from New Zealand but had moved to France since 1975, they asked for a Coke. But when I tell them my cafe doesn’t serve Coca Cola, he asks why not and we start having a conversation. And after a while he tells me that even in Vietnam back in ‘75, all the little cafes were already serving Coca Cola instead of local things, and he said that “You may be the only cafe that doesn’t serve Coca Cola! Keep doing what you’re doing!” So he gave me good appreciation. From complaining, he realized that this cafe is quite unique!”And where do you find your inspiration? “I never find it, it comes by itself. Sometimes I feel an idea and I respond to it. I think the more sensitive someone is for it, the easier it is to respond to inspiration. Also, courage is needed to look at your art and decide that, “Ah, this is good!” Many people are afraid to try something new, something different; many times they copy but never find their own style or way of expressing themselves. Sometimes art school students are very indecisive and judgmental, too worried about what their peers will think of their work. I have no judgment; I just do! For example this wood...”

Kompi & the Water Castle Cafe by Mike Meijer

reDiscovering Jogja

He walks over to a very old wood beam that has been placed prominently at the front of the cafe, like a proud figurehead on the prow of a ship.

“...is the old wood from the Water Castle from the 17th century. To me it is important, it is part of my area, my history. Other people might look at the wood and see just old useless wood, but I see the stories that it would tell if it could speak. The same can be said for art.

Art and inspiration is about sentimentality; we don’t naturally create something important, but we give meaning to what we create.”

Are there any words of wisdom that you would like to share?

“Physical ability, ability of mind, and spiritual ability: this is the foundation of the enjoyment of life. With physical ability you can do sports, karate, tennis, anything. With ability of mind you can read, you can write, you can speak with those around you. With spiritual ability you can go to the mosque, the church, the mountain, the river, as long as you have this kind of ability. But it is not always with religion; you don’t need uniform for spirituality. The spiritual, sometimes people

make mistakes. For example, when you do sport you don’t bring a tennis racket to a football field, right?”

He smiles, tapping his index finger to his forehead.

“These three things are like a muscle, they all need exercise in order to grow stronger and develop.”

What is your hope for the future?

“For myself, I just always want to stay a healthy person, because with good health you can do many things, and in general I hope that other people find their own prosperity and that they can be happy, living in peace.”

I take another sip of the delicious fresh fruit juice his lovely wife has offered me; its’ flavors bring to mind the vibrant colors resplendent on the canvasses hanging around the cafe. Eventually the rain subsides and I stand up to leave.

With a firm handshake and a broad, easy smile, Kompi bids me goodbye before retaking his seat on his old wooden bench, keeping vigil over Taman Sari and all that it means to him.

Mike Meijer

restaurant - travel - guesthouse fair trade shop - yoga studio

jalan prawirotaman 30, jogjakarta,java, indonesiaph +62 274 38 65 57www.viaviajogja.com | www.viaviacafe.com

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Javanese Wisdom

Ratu Boko

RUKUN AGAWE SANTOSA, CRAH AGAWE BUDRAHKerukunan menjadikan kuat, Bermusuhan menjadikan kehancuran

“Harmony creates strength, hostility causes destruction”

About three kilometers south of the famous Prambanan temple, which is dedicated to the legendary princess Loro Jonggrang, the curious visitor will discover another temple complex built on top of a hill plateau. The site named Ratu Boko is a ruined complex encompassing stone foundations of temples and residences, gateways, pavilions, meditation caves carved in stone cliffs and several bathing holes, the whole enclosed by massive remnants of stone walls. The history of the site itself is still clouded in mystery. The dating of the main buildings is linked to the Sailendra Dynasty, which ruled over Central Java in the 8th to the 10th century AD. It is Buddhist in iconography, yet Hindu elements have been found there as well, and it is related to several other hilltop temples scattered nearby (Candi Barong, Banyujibo, Candi Ijo).

Javanese legends and folkloric tales (dongeng) attribute the building of the Ratu Boko site to the human-eating ogre, King Boko, who had a daughter; a princess named Loro Jonggrang. The cruel King Boko was defeated by a young Prince Bandung Bondowoso from the Pengging kingdom, who then fell in love with the beautiful princess. After an impossible task of building a thousand temples in condition for her hand, Bandung Bondowoso cursed Roro Jonggrang, who materialized into a stone statue on the Prambanan temple complex. To this day, she is still considered to haunt both sites, and is feared by local Javanese pilgrims during occasional offering ceremonies at these historic sites.

The origins of the Ratu Boko complex mystery continues as several experts argue against the fact of this being an ancient Palace, despite the names linking to royal Javanese palaces that are given to several of the remnants. An interpretation that is often accepted instead is that it served as a spiritual abode and meditation place for the successive Sailendra Buddhist kings of the period. This interpretation is largely based on dated stone inscriptions, as well as a unique gold inscription dated to the year AD 792 found nearby the ruined premises by Dutch archeologists during colonial times.

According to these inscriptions, the whole complex should be regarded as a monastic Buddhist site, dedicated for meditational and esoteric Tantra practices. The reason being that the main building named ‘Pendopo’ (a Javanese term for a King’s innermost audience hall) features the classic architectural characteristics that associate it with the Abhayagirivihara forest-monastery, located in Anuradhapura in north-central Sri Lanka. The golden inscription, and a Buddhist mantra found near the northern gate, reveal that an embassy of Abhayagirivihara forest monks were invited to Java in the early 8th century by the Javanese Sailendraking Panarabwan (reigned 784-803) because they were the foremost masters of the Yoga Tantras, custodians and skilled commentators on the doctrines of secret tantric texts given directly by the Buddha himself to his disciple Kasyapa.

The teachings of this sacred lineage of forest yogis were sought by Buddhist rulers all over Asia in order to educate their own Mahayana Sangha (Monastic orders).

The Ratu Boko golden inscription is actually a mantra named the ‘Scripture for humane kings who wish to protect their states’. It is clear that this must have attracted the early Mataram dynasty kings to Tantric teachings, as empowerment and purification would be guaranteed. A Sailendra king thus founded a branch of the Abhayagirivihara on the southern platform of the Ratu Boko. At least one of the buildings was placed on an artificial plateau, as conspicuous and prominent a position as any imaginable on the plains of Sorogedug and Prambanan, signifying that the Sailendra regent who placed it there had an extraordinary respect for the Abhayagiriviharins and commemorated their coming to Java. Actually, the whole southeastern compound of Ratu Boko appears to have been conceived as a replica of Anuradhapura’s rocky hermitage.

Esoteric and tantric practitioners, including patron kings themselves, would have probably utilized the carved caves in the southern cliffs, the cremation funeral platform and the bathing holes in typical Yoga Tantra practices designed to purify and empower

the practitioner. The presence of meditation caves in the northern part of the compound already suggested that Ratu Boko was the dwelling of Buddhist hermits and ascetics. Meditation halls and residences would have completed the site to provide ease in acquiring the teachings from the masters.

Nowadays, the place is still visited by Javanese mystics performing night rituals and semedi (meditation), in typical Kejawen tradition, as the site is considered to wield considerable energy suitable for such goals. Kungkum meditations in Ratu Boko’s waterholes fed by natural springs are a usual form of union with Nature’s essence, here through the element of Water. The whole premise of Kejawen and its kebatinan application is indeed centered on the core Buddhist ideas of Wisdom and Compassion, as related through the sutra of the Eightfold noble path teaching. Ratu Boko could be considered by these Javanese mystics, much as their Tantric forefathers 11 centuries earlier, as a perfect spot to reflect and deepen oneself in these teachings. A Javanese pepatah, or saying, rounds up nicely what this spot signifies for the Javanese mind that is already known for its levels of tolerance: Rukun Agawe Santosa, Crah Agawe Bubrah, which advocates for solidarity as it brings strength and growth, whereas looking for enemies brings only destruction. Philosophically, it also advocates for a more humanist view of the several types of beings created by the God conscience and to not get stuck too deep in strict conventional categorizations of humans.

Patrick Vanhoebrouck & Moko Pramusanto

Jamu on Java (and Indonesia) is predominantly a herbal medicine made from natural materials, such as roots, leaves and bark, and fruit. In some cases material from the bodies of animals is added, such as bile of goat or cobra, or sundried rice-field crabs. It is often presented through bitter-tasting potions or pills containing various combinations and types of ingredients.

The use of medicinal plants to overcome health problems in various countries around the world has always existed. This is apparent through the many writings of ancient manuscripts that contain the properties of medicinal plants for treating various diseases that occur in different tribes and societies around the world.

In Java, from ancestral times until now, the use of herbs or herbal medicine has always played an important role in traditional health care. For example, Beraskencur, Cabe Puyang Kencur Sunthi, Kunirasem, Uyup-uyup, and other remedies from the past still exist until today, and are regularly used in the maintenance of health in our society. One might have noticed the many yellow-signed jamu shops on the roadsides, or the itinerant jamu saleswomen walking around carrying their various mixtures on their back.

In Java as well, many old manuscripts talk about the subject of Jamu in health. Here are some references:SERAT NITISASTRO, written in the 13th century ADSERAT RAMA, written in by R. Ng. Yasadipura I (1729 – 1801)SERAT CENTHINI, written around 1815 by three notorious pujangga or court poetsupon the order of the king of the Surakarta KratonSunanPakuBuwana V.KITAB PRIMBON LUKMANAKIM ADAMMAKNA, written by Ir. Soembogo

Initially, the treatment of diseases by Javanese ancestral healers by means of natural materials was mainly based on empirical experience by testing the effectiveness of a plant in relation to certain diseases. Another method was the belief that the shape, color or appearance of a plant suggests the effectiveness of these plants. This knowledge is commonly known as the “doctrine of signatures”.

For example:- The root of the plant Pandak Pule (Rauwolfia serpentine) has a shape of a snake and can therefore treat someone who is exposed to toxins from the venom of snakes.- The rhizome Kunir (Curcuma domestica) is yellow, which means it can treat jaundice. Turmeric indeed has a favorable effect on the pancreas and liver functions.- Leaves of the Pagagan(Centelaasitica L) have the shape of a brain, which means that this plant can be used to increase blood flow to the brain.

Specific knowledge such as in the examples above has already been correctly vindicated through science. However, some assertions are false; for example the banana-flower, which is shaped like a heart, has not been shown to successfully treat heart diseases.

The science of Jamu has developed tremendously in recent decades, sometimes adopting and integrating precise and proven oriental theoretical systems borrowed from other holistic traditions such as Indian Ayurveda and traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). At the SEPTIM institute in Yogyakarta, the science behind Jamu-making has been applied to a rare level of sophistication, basing the remedy mixtures in the Yin Yang system as well as the Five Elements systems of viewing the body and its relation with the outer world. Integrating these holistic sciences with ancient Javanese concepts of mind and body, the trained healers often arrive at remarkable and ‘miraculous’ rehabilitation of a patient’s health.

For more information check the blog http://javanesewisdomandhealing.wordpress.com/about-us/

Patrick Vanhoebrouck and MokoPramusanto

Javanese Health Secrets : Jamu

Jogja & Me: Why people make Jogja their Home?

A remarkable tale, the life of Rudi Corens. An art-loving, creative and kind man who’s full of stories. Once invited to wind back his memory, entire worlds seem to open up. No wonder, as this acerbic Belgian artist has lived and worked all over the world. Believe it or not, while soon to turn 80 years old, Rudi freely admits to feeling just like he did in his late 30’s.

Originally schooled as a stage designer for theatre and television, Rudi came to Jogja in 1990 and immediately fell in love, “Actually my love for Jogja started because of the similarities rural Jogja has with the place I used to live in Sri Lanka. I experienced the same calmness and friendliness in Jogja as I did there.” Rudi’s move was definitely not voluntary. The violence during the civil war in Sri Lanka at the time had made it impossible to remain there.

Once in Jogja, Rudi continued doing what he has been doing for a long time: teaching. “I started lecturing about communication at Gadjah Mada University, but later moved to Literature, which I liked better. What differentiates me is that I treat all my students as real people. I still have close contact with some of my first Indonesian students.” At the end of the 1990’s Rudi collected and trained a small group of young people with whom he started RC-Studio; a now famous art gallery on Jalan Tirtodipuran. Starting out as a small studio with mostly the Belgian artist’s own colorful silver artworks, RC Studio grew over the years. Today Rudi directs his attention only towards the development of the Dunia Damai (World Peace) foundation which manages the first children’s museum in Indonesia: Museum Anak Kolong Tangga.

“I have made it my mission to built this children’s museum into a full-fledged institution. Which is not easy to do in Yogyakarta. We could have had our own building by now in Jakarta, but I want to

have this museum here, for the children of Jogja.” Currently the Kolong Tangga children’s museum, initiated by Rudi himself, and realized with the help of many volunteers, is housed inside one of the buildings of the Taman Budaya complex. Just a short stroll away from the famous jalan Malioboro shopping street. “Our exhibitions are for children aged 8 and older and their parents. Inside you will find an enormous collection of toys, and there is also an atelier especially for children. Here they can create their own art.” With a smile he adds, “besides all the positive critique we’ve had thus far, an often heard complaints is that the place is too small.”

Besides being reminiscent of former days in Sri Lanka, a country he still loves dearly, what makes Rudi so passionate about Jogja? “Jogja has kept much of its original traditional face, which is reflected through the people on the street. If Jogja’s people come and talk to you it’s almost always with an intention of getting to know more about you. This healthy curiosity for new things, possessed by the inhabitants of Jogja, forms an important part of the soul of this city.” Rudi’s advise for getting to know Jogja better couldn’t be more straightforward. “Stop a while, have a conversation. Listen, take your time, and you will slowly learn what Jogja is all about.”

Egbert Wits

Episode VI: Rudi Corens from Belgium

Interview with a decision maker

JM: Can you tell us how long you have been the head of Ratu Boko Kraton ?For 10 months since February 1, 2012. Previously I served as the head of the Ratu Boko Unit for 3 years from October 1, 1999-December 26, 2002, and as the chairman of Ratu Boko Project for 3 years from January 20, 1993 to January 14, 1996.

JM: What did you do before being the head of Ratu Boko Kraton ?I served as a staff member of the President Directors at the Head Office for 4 months from 1 October 2011-31 January and the main examiner on the Internal Supervision Unit at the Head Office for 5 years of 4 September 2006-30 September 2011.

JM: Being the head of one of the three masterpieces of tourism for Yogyakarta should be really exiting. Can you tell us what part of your job you prefer ?Given that, of the 3 masterpieces, the Boko Palace has not yet been exposed, it is a very pleasing challenge to manage the ideas of the field agents. I also enjoy improving product services for the tourists by utilizing the exceptional potential of the site and its environment (e.g. the tour packages of Sunset, Sunset Tea, Outbound, Dinner, Lunch, Performance, Pre-wedding, Camping etc).

JM: Today, Borobudur, Prambanan and Ratu Boko are under 1 management. Does it mean that the funds allocated to maintain those 3 places are similar ?

Of course the allocated funds are not the same, but it’s proportional in accordance with the management of operational needs for each of the sites.

JM: UNESCO is involved in Borobudur and in Prambanan. Are they also involved in Ratu Boko ?Borobudur and Prambanan have been designated by UNESCO as World Heritage sites which should be protected. Ratu Boko has not been registered, but it’s expected to get attention from UNESCO.

JM: There is still a lot of unexplored sides in Ratu Boko. Does anybody have an precise idea of what was the real function of Ratu Boko in the past ?Its not necessary to have just an idea or thought from someone about the real function of the Ratu Boko Palace, because the Government had commissioned authorized institutions, namely the Preservation of Cultural Heritage Board (BPCB) of Yogyakarta Special Territory, to research the site thoroughly. Based on the inscriptions issued by Rakai Panangkaran during 746-784 M, the area of Ratu Boko site was called Abhayagiri Vihara which means “the monks dormitory located on a hill that is full of peace’.

JM: Today, is there still some ongoing archeological research about the site focused on discovering what it really was ?Archaeological research of the site is done continuously in the form of conservation, excavation and renovation by the Conservation of Cultural Heritage Board (BPCB) of Yogyakarta.

Head of the Ratu Boko UnitIndonesianAddress :Ratu Boko Unit Office - Jl. Raya Prambanan-Piyungan Km. 2Yogyakarta - 55 5710274- 496 510 - ratuboko@borobudurpark.co.id

RM, Teguh Mariardi, SE

JM: Which part of the palace do you personally prefer ?All parts of this site are interesting because each has functions that support each other complicatedly – representing the very perfect in the unity of Ratu Boko Palace.

JM: The walls and roofs of Ratu Boko are long since gone, because it was made of organic materials, like wood. Is there any project to recreate the palace or a part of it as it was ?The documents explaining the details of the roof of the Palace haven’t been found until now so there can be no project to create the roof because there is no reference. If this is done then it would mean a falsification of history.

JM: How many visitors see Ratu Boko yearly average ?The visit of the tourists average per year to the Ratu Boko is always increasing. For the year 2011 it was 130,000 people .

JM: The gates of Ratu Boko are usually used for wedding pictures by Indonesian people. How do you explain that ? Based on the experience of the pre-wedding package, people not only take photos with the background of the gate, but also of the assembly hall, the square, the place of the princess, the garden, natural panorama, dove and others. All sides of the Ratu Boko Palace are beautiful and have the high value of the past civilization and culture to use as the backgrounds for the pre-wedding package.

JM: As this place was Hindu, then Buddhist, is there still any religious processions in Ratu Boko ?A routine annual religious ceremony that is still running is the taking of holy water from a well near the Burning Temple followed by a procession of Tawur Agung from Ratu Boko to Prambanan temple the day before Nyepi , a Hindu holiday.

JM

1st January until 8th JanuaryMommy dearestViaVia Jogja, Jl. Prawirotaman 30, JogjakartaGroup exhibition

1st January until 10th JanuaryOmnivora Herbivora9am - 9pmTirana ArtspaceJl Suryodiningratan 55 Yogyakarta 55141Solo exhibition by Anton Subiyanto.

1st January until 27th JanuaryExhibition by Kasih HartonoStart 1pmHotel Duta Wisata IJl. Urip Sumoharjo No. 73 YogyakartaSolo painting exhibition by Kasih Hartono.

27th January until 20th FebruaryKEINDAHAN DALAM DIAMBeauty in Silence9am - 9pmTirana ArtspaceJl Suryodiningratan 55 Yogyakarta 55141Solo fine art exhibition by Imam Santoso.

Every Sunday, Tuesday and SaturdayRamayana Ballet Performance 7.30pm - 9.30pmTaman Wisata Candi PrambananJl. Raya Yogya-Solo km 16 PrambananCultural performance managed to combine the diversity of Javanese art in forms of dance, drama and music.

Every nightWayang Kulit8pm - 10pmSonobudoyo MuseumJl. Trikora 6 YogyakartaLeather puppet show. Performances of shadow puppet theatre are accompanied by a traditional gamelan orchestra.

Every Monday and TuesdayKarawitan Show10am - 12amSultan PalaceJl. Rotowijayan 1 YogyakartaTraditional show combining gamelan music and singing.

Practical informationPolice: 110Ambulance: 118Fire brigad: 113Emergency: 112Immigration office: 0274 - 487 165International Hospital: 0274 - 446 3535Kota Yogyakarta Hospital: 0274 - 371 195Red cross: 0274 - 379 212Tourism information: 0274 - 513 543Tugu train station: 0274 - 589 685Airport: 0274 - 484 261Jas taxi: 0274 - 373 737Asa taxi: 0274 - 545 545Sadewa taxi: 0274 - 376 107Indrakelana taxi: 0274 - 564 572Money changer: 0274 - 561 155Yogyakarta city government: 0274 - 562 811

What’s up in January 2013