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VALUE CHAINJuly - September 2014 I Volume 3 I Issue 2 I Pages 60

ISSN NO.: 2278-8972 I RNI NO.: MAHENG / 2012/43707

Days

EDITORIAL

"A Government is big Enough if it gives everything you want II ~~-.

Wither Textiles after the Budget?Amajor demand of the textile industry in the context of the Budget for 2014-2015 was

that excise duty on all man-made fibres and filament yarns be reduced from 12% to 8%. Inkeeping with that proposal, the industry also requested for the reduction of excise duty onMMFtextilesand clothing to 8 percent.

The industry has been saying that exports of MMF textiles and clothing from the country are worth US $ 6 billion,while exports of cotton textiles and clothing have touched US $ 15 billion. This is somewhat ironical, given the preferenceofthe consumers the world over for synthetic and blended fabrics and clothing. Both cotton textiles and MMF textiles aremanufactured on the same type of machinery and the conversion cost is also more or less the same. In such a situation,the only factor that betrays MMF textiles is that, like cotton, man -made fibres and filament yarns are not available at ornear international prices. The aberration must be corrected at the earliest.

To rectify the situation, and promote exports of MMF textiles and clothing, the industry has been demanding theavailability of man-made fibres and filament yarns at or near international prices, through rationalization of indirect taxes.The scripts under Chapter 3 schemes are eligible for utilization for offsetting excise duty in case exporter procures thewares from domestic market, to give focused thrust for manufacturing in domestic industry. The industry had made averyreasonable request to appoint a Committee of all stakeholders to find out a solution. It seems the industry has to wait forsome more time.

The textile industry has not appreciated the reimposition of excise duty on re-cycled fibre. There are variousdimensions to that issue. As the industry has pointed out recycling of waste plastics and pet bottles is welcome from theenvironmental angle. The recycling industry must be enabled to achieve an economic reward for its efforts to collectwaste and do its segregation into non-biodegradable waste and biodegradable waste. The imposition of excise duty willdampen this eco-friendly activity, which is much needed in the larger interest of the society. Further, yarn and fabricsmanufactured from recycled fibre are preferred by the lower strata ofthe society from the price consideration. Hence theproposal will hitthefamilies having limited income.

The abolition of customs duty on specific raw materials imported for the manufacture of elastomeric yarn, whichis also called spandex yarn should have been kept on hold, till the Director-General of Safeguards duty gives his report onthe request of the sole manufacturer of elastomericyarn in the country to impose safeguard duty on it.

Shri V.Y. TamhaneEditorial Advisor

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any ofthe content from this issue is prohibited without explicitwritten permission of the publisher. Every effort hasbeen made to ensure and present factual andaccurate information. The views expressed in thearticles published in this magazine are that of therespective authors and not necessarily that of thepublisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible forany unlikely errors that might occur or any steps takenbased in the information provided herewith.

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~DUSTAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE~

Hindustan chamber of commercearranged interactive meet on 18th June, 2014with Shri Praveen Dixit, Director General,Anti corruption bureau Mumbai.In a meeting members of chamberinteracted and asked their queries oncorruption, how we can fight with it. He hadsatisfactorily answered.

ITME Society OrganizeGTTES Show in Mumbai

Anti Corruption Bureau Contact details:Toll Free: 1800222021Landline : 022-24921212Mobile no : +91-9930997700Email id : addlcpacbmumbai@mahaDolice.gov.in

ASSOCIATION NEWS

Confirmed group buyers from Regional Textile Parks & Industrial Zones. Promoting bulk government procurement & bulk raw material procurement B2B Meetings International trade services Technical staff interaction & recruitments.

Weaving Machinery Pavilion Processing Machinery Pavilion Nonwoven & Technical Textiles Pavilion Digital Printing Machinery Pavilion Garment, Knitting, & Embroidery Machinery Pavilion Textile Chemical & Dyes Machinery Pavilion Fibre & Yarn Machinery Pavilion Jute Machinery Pavilion Accessories /Spare Parts/Component Pavilion Waste Water Management & Green Technology Pavilion

BarespaceIndian exhibitor Rs.7500/- per sq. mtr + Govt. taxes as applicableForeign exhibitor US $ 270/- sq. mtr + Govt. tax as applicable

Shell schemeIndian Exhibitor Rs. 85001- per sq. mtr + Govt. taxes as applicableForeign exhibitor US $ 300/- per sq. mtr + Govt. taxes as applicable

To promote post spinning sectors. Uve demo of machineries" accessories, showcase newtechnology .. products.

Support modernization, manufacturing & investments in Textile Industry. To create Gateway to regional markets of India To provide access to market opportunities In India & neighboring countries, Indonesia

Bangladesh, Pakistan, Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Vietnam & Cambodia.

Online @ www.india-itme.com/GTTES2015Email: gttes@india-itme.com.itme@india-jtme.com

First come first serve till availability of space

India International Textile Machinery Exhibitions Society(lndia ITME Society) 34 years oldIndustry Body, a pioneer and largest textile machinery exhibition organizer in India.

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Bharat Merchant Chamber hadorganized meet on 28th June, 2014 atJuggilalPodar Sabhagar, Mumbai. Chief guest wasShri Arvind Sawant , Member of Parliamentfrom South Mumbai and Guest of honor isShri Ashish Shelar, BJP President.

The meeting was organized ro requestgovernment NO LBT. Mr. Ashish Shelarspoke II we will advocate the rights of textilebusinessman . they play big role inemployment generation. Due to various taxmany textile mills closed in Mumbai. So, heassured Mumbai will not have LBT, Octroi &No NewTax.

Also, chamber requested for allotmentfor Plot in Bandra Kurla complex, speciallyfor textile Merchants. Government is underconsideration for same.

Meeting was ended by launch ofNotebook, which Bharat Merchant chamberplanned to distribute to needy people.

ITAMMA showcased its services aswell as the products of its members at StallNo,49 in Hall D2. The trend of visitorsregistered at ITAMMA Stall was 52.81% fromSpinning, 23.59% from Weaving, 12.36%from Wet Processing, and 11.24 % werefrom Garment Apparel Industry & others.While the category of visitors were 8.89% ofTraders/Agents interested in purchasing andselling the products, 7.87% of Owners fromall fields (out of this 20% Owners were fromGarment & Apparel Industry)

A special 'Catalogue DisplayScheme' was organized for its members whowere not able to participate in the aboveExhibition. Also during the exhibition,ITAMMA Logo was displayed at 23 Stalls ofthe Member-Exhibitors of ITAMMA. Duringthe Exhibition among the renownedidentities, Mr Rakesh Kumar Arora, FirstSecretary from the Indian Embassy atIndonesia, visited ITAMMA Stall & also hadinteraction with ITAMMA's Office Bearers &other members.

ITAMMA India's strong participation at'INDO interTEX 2014'

ITAMMA was the only Indianassociation that participated in the 12 thedition of 'INDO inter TEX 2014', theIndonesia International Textile and GarmentMachinery & Accessories Exhibition,organized jointly by PT. Peraga NusantaraJaya Sakti, Indonesia. The exhibitionreceived a tremendous response from 807exhibitors from 25 countries, including 41Indian exhibitors. ITAMMA took 23 of itsmembers to showcase their specializedservices.

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CORPORATE NEWS-----

PortescapPortescap introduces our P760 series

disc magnet motor. which outperformsstandard Brushless DC motors in variousapplications. The unique thin disc magnetmotor has been optimized to deliver hightorque and acceleration up to 5,000 rpm.The performance has been accomplished bycombining the Disc Magnet technology withan optimization of the number of pole pairs.The Disc Magnet technology provides verylow inertia while the optimization of polepairs balances the iron losses versus thejoule losses. This high speed stepper motorcan deliver a boosted torque of 0.7 Nm withinertia as low as 17E-7 Kgm'.

The closed loop P760 series motoroffers exceptional dynamic performance tomeet challenging applications where rapidchanges in acceleration and direction ofrotation are required in the shortestpossible time. Applications that can benefitfrom the P760 include electronic yarnguides, medical XY tables and robotics.

"Our P760 series motor has a uniquemultipolar design with extremely low rotorinertia. Unlike other motor technologies,the rotor does not require an additional ironstructure to achieve flux variations. Closingthe loop with the encoder, it is capable ofexceptional accelerations which, togetherwith a high peak speed, make this motortechnology suitable for fast incrementalmotion." Says Anant Bhalerao - AssociateProduct Line Manager

With its unique design and encoderas a standard feature, the P760 series discmagnet motors allow machine builders toimprove overall design efficiency of theirmachine. As a result, these RoHS-compliantstep motors are an ideal solution in textile,life science, medical, fluid handling andindustrial automation equipment.

ADD'IQNS

ADD ON LAUNCHES AUTUMN WINTERCOLLECTION 2014

Addons presence in the event hasmarked a new beginning for getting bothtextiles and fashion accessories to comeunder one roof and provide the best of both

the worlds to cater the growing hunger forthe fashion industry in the country today.Addons showcased an exclusive previewfor their new collection forAutumn Winter2014 at the event. Keeping in mind thebeauty of mix and match of the outfits andthe right accessories,Addons presented awide array of the various fashionaccessories like bags, shoes, earrings andneckpieces. The collection is fresh and addsto the glamour quotient and is apt fordressing up on various occasions, be it acoffee date or an official meeting.

The Addons Autumn Winter collectionconsists a mixture of trendy colors likeshades of nude, the neon hits like greens,popping pink, yellow as well the boldmetallic shades that are a popular ragetoday. The collection is classy yetaffordable, being at par with the leadinginternational brands in the country. Thedesigns of these accessories are chosenkeeping in mind the ever increasing rageand demand for accessories by various agegroups and need state for new fashion on aneveryday basis.

This new Autumn Winter collection2014 by Addons will hit the stores by 1st

Week ofSeptember."It is a very over whelming feeling to launch

our new AW14 collection at CMAI. The Addonsnew Autumn-Winter collection is designed basedon international Fashion Trends. The brand hasreceived a lot of appreciation in the past andcustomers have liked our Collection. This year wehave chosen to Launch our collection at CMAI andshowcase it to Leading Retailers from every partof India"says Mr. AshishSaboo, MD and CEO,AddOns Retail accessory brand.

IisoftechilA.T.E.-Softech tie-up for automation

old textile machines

Textile units can now upgrade theirolder textile machines with minimuminvestment and faster ROI! If your textilemachines are in sound mechanicalcondition but have old controls, you nowhave a range of retrofits and upgradescomprising hardware and software broughtto you by A.T.E. from Softech that willsignificantly improve the performance ofthese machines.

Softech Controls Private Limited is apart of the renowned Cotmac group, an

Indian professional engineering firm with 11decades of experience, a solid domesticnetwork and astrong international presence(USA, Canada, UAE, and Singapore). Inaddition to retrofits and upgrades, Softechalso supplies indigo dosing systems for thedenim sector. Softech has carved a niche foritself in the textile industry as a totalautomation solution provider.

A.T.E., asingle window solution providerin the textile industry, has long years ofexperience and domain knowledge intextiles. This enables A.T.E. to give the rightinput to Softech to provide the right andmost cost effective automation solution.

In the cut-throat world of textiles,upgrading through automation is the bestand most economical option to staycompetitive, with several benefits: Minimum investment Enhances machine performance and

productivity Immediate ROI Hassle free operation Reduces operation time Reduces operational cost

Softech has successfully carried out thefollowing automation projects in differentmachines: Online PH/ORP monitor and control for

indigo dyeing. POY automation upgrade on Rieter

winders. Automation and drive upgradation in

West Point sizing machines. Automation and drive upgradation

Morrison wet finishing denim ranges Automation and drive upgradation

M-Tec super finish machines. Automation and drive upgradation Tepa

servo jigger Automation and drive upgradation

Barmag DTY machineAfter tying up with Softech, A.T.E. has

already bagged following orders: JCT Ltd., Phagwara: Change of drives,

Siemens PLC upgradation from S5to S7 & entire new panel for Monfortspad dry & Benninger pad steam range.

Arvind Ltd., Ahmedabad: Monforts paddry panel upgradation

Premier Spg. &Wvg. Mills, Coimbatore:Sucker Muller sizing iemens PLCupgradation from S5 to S7.A.T.E-Softech have a highly experienced

team of engineers with deep domainknowledge in textiles and electronics toexecute upgradation projects smoothly andsuccessfully and are also committed toprovide high quality services post-execution.

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Artificial TurfTECHNICAl TEXTI lE FOCUS

Technical textiles are divided into 12 segments &Sportech is one of them. ArtificialTurf, a Sports accessories/functional Sportech product comes under the Sportechsegment. In India, Sportech is growing rapidly & becoming popular. Artificial turf is

Mr. Mayur Basuk a surfacing material used to imitategrass. It is generally used inareaswheregrass Mr. Amit Senguptacannot grow, or in areas where grass maintenance is impossible or undesired. Artificial turf is used mainly in sports stadiums and arenas, butcan also be found on playgrounds and in other spaces. The present article deals with the history of artificial turf and various aspects likefeatures, components, manufacturing process, future trends &demand, scenario ofartificial turf usage in India etc.Keywords: Artificial Turf, Components, Manufacturing process, Advantages &Disadvantages, Market scenario, Future trends.

IIDNTRODUCTION

Artificial turf or synthetic turf is aman-made surface manufactured fromsynthetic materials with appearancesimilar to natural grass. It is used formaking world-class surfaces for playingsports (Hockey, Soccer, Baseball, Tennis,Ski and snowboard) which are normallyplayed on grass [1]. The hockey stadiumsaccount for most of the consumption ofthe artificial turf in India. It is also used inindoors or outdoors for landscaping:Rooftops, Balconies, Atriums, Home andCorporate Lawns, Hotels and Resorts, ClubHouses, Airports, Jogging / WalkingTracks, Shopping Malls, Traffic Islands,Road Medians & Kid's play area etc.

Synthetic grass was firstintroduced in the 1960s for professionalsports teams, and is now widely used in alllevels of sports for indoor and outdoorfields. Artificial turf is considered a safealternative to natural grass; an aridenvironment or one where there is littlenatural light are examples, turf has nodirect harmful effects to pets or children.The advantages of artificial turf are that itdoesn't need water, fertilizer or mowing. Itholds up to wear and tear far better thannatural grass. Artificial turf can withstandsignificantly more use than natural grassand can therefore be used much morefrequently. This allows sports groundowners to generate more income fromtheir facilities. Turf generally lasts at leasta decade. Many are dog durable andgopher proof (there are no roots to eat).It's safe for children and pets with regardsto not twisting ankles in gopher holes. It'seasy to clean with a hose and doesn'tattract bugs and pests. It can't get grassstains and it won't have bare or brown

spots. Some artificial turf systems allow forthe integration of fiber-optic fibers intothe turf. This would allow for lighting oradvertisements to be directly embeddedin a playing surface, or runway lighting tobe embedded in artificial landing surfacesfor aircraft [2, 3].

However, artificial turf does havefew disadvantages. It tends to get hotterthan natural grass in the mid-day sun andmaterials on the surface don't break downas easily. The production andtransportation of artificial turf releasesmore greenhouse gases than themaintenance of natural turf. It will need toget replaced and disposed of in a landfillsince most types cannot be recycled.Despite the advances in technology, lessexpensive types of artificial turf and infillstill may not have as much give as grass.Several studies have shown that theartificial turfs have a higher injury ratethan grass on play grounds. The newmanufacturing and installation procedureshave resulted in lowering of injury ratesthan on natural grass. Although it is stillmore costly than natural turf in the shortterm, the cost has come down astechnologies have improved, makingartificial turf a realistic option forhomeowners today [4, 5].

[BACKGROUND HISTORY IIArtificial turf has been manufactured

since the early 1960s, and was originallyproduced by Chemstrand Company (laterrenamed Monsanto Textiles Company). It isproduced using manufacturing processessimilar to those used in the carpet industry.Since the 1960s, the product has been

improved through new designs and bettermaterials. The newest synthetic turf productshave been chemically treated to be resistanttoultraviolet rays, and the materials have beenimproved to be more wear-resistant, lessabrasive, and, for some applications, moresimilarto natural grass.

In the early 1950s, the tufting processwas invented. A large number of needlesinsert filaments offiber into afabric backing.

Then a flexible adhesive likepolyurethane or polyvinyl chloride is used tobind the fibers to the backing. This is theprocedure used for the majority of residentialand commercial carpets. A tufting machinecan produce a length of carpet that is 15 ft (4.6m) wide and more than 3 ft (1 m) long in oneminute. In the early 1960s, the FordFoundation, as part of its mission to advancehuman achievement, asked science andindustry to develop synthetic playing surfacesfor urban spaces. They hoped to give urbanchildren year-round play areas with betterplay quality and more uses than the traditionalconcrete, asphalt, and compacted soil ofsmallurban playgrounds. In 1964, the firstinstallation of the new playing surface calledChem grass was installed at Moses BrownSchool in Providence, Rhode Island.In 1966, artificial turf was first used inprofessional major-league sports and gainedits most famous brand name when theAstrodome was opened in Houston, Texas. Bythe first game ofthe 1966season, artificial turfwas installed, and the brand name Chem grasswas changed toAstroTurf.

Artificial turf also found its way into theapplications for which it was originallyconceived, and artificial turf was installed atmany inner-city playgrounds. Some schoolsand recreation centers took advantage ofartificial turfs properties to convert buildingroofs into "grassy" playareas.

After the success ofthe Astrodome

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TECHNICAL TEXTILE FOCUS -----

installation, the artificial turfmarketexpandedwith other manufacturers entering the field,most notably the 3M (Minnesota Mining andManufacturing) Company with its versionknown as Tartan Turf. The widespreadacceptance of artificial turf also led to theboom in closed and domed stadiumconstruction around theworld.

In the early 1970s,artificial turfcameunder scrutiny due to safety and qualityconcerns. Some installations, often thosedone by the numberofcompanies that sprangup to cash in on the trend, began todeteriorate. The turf would wear too quickly,seams would come apart, and the top layerwould soon degrade from exposure tosunlight. Athletes and team doctors began tocomplain about the artificial surfaces, andblamed the turf forfriction burns and blisters.Natural turfyields to the force ofablow, but anarm or leg driven along the unyielding surfaceof artificial turf is more likely to be injured.Since artificial turf does not have the samecooling effects as natural turf, surfacetemperatures can be 30 warmer above theartificial surfaces. Baseball players claimedthat a ball would bounce harder and in lesspredictable ways, and some soccer playersclaimed that the artificial surface makes theball roll faster, directly affecting the game.However, the National Football League andthe Stanford Research Institute declared in1974that artificial turfwas not ahealth hazardto professional football players, and its usecontinued to spread.

In the 1990s, biological turf began tomake a comeback when a marketing ofnostalgia in professional sport resulted in there-emergence of outdoor stadiums. Manyuniversities-responding to the nostalgia,advances in grass biology, and the fears aboutincreased risk of injury on artificialturf-began to reinstall natural turf systems.However, natural turf systems continue torequire sunlight and maintenance (mowing,watering, fertilizing, aerating), and the surfacemay deteriorate in heavy rain. Artificial turfoffers a surface that is nearly maintenance-free, does not require sunlight, and has adrainage system. Recent developments in theartificial turf industryare newsystemsthat

have simulated blades of grass supported byan infill material so the "grass" does notcompact. The resulting product is closer to thelook and feel of grass than the older; rug-likesystems. Because ofthese factors, artificial turfwill probably continue to be a turf surfaceoption for communities, schools, andprofessional sports teams.

COMPONENTS OF ARTIFICIAL TURF:

Basic components of artificial turf are asfollows:

Pile Fibre - The grass like piles are non-abrasive and soft to touch. It is made ofeither PP/PE or nylon/nylon 6.6, which iscustom extruded into a monofilamentribbon form. The pile fibre has to allow forsmooth ball roll and bounce, support non-directional foot traction, allow for waterpermeability and should have the correctbalance of strength, elasticity and stiffnessto withstand the wear and tear of regularusage.

Backing Fabric - The material to whichsurface fibres are attached to form theunderside of the artificial turf surface. Thebacking has to permit water to flowthrough the fabric readily.

Shock-Absorbing Foam - It providescushioning for running or falling athletes.The foam is made of a closed-cell polymeralloy like polyurethane, typically 1/2 inch inheight and perforated for vertical drainage.

Supporting Base - It supports theload placed on the entire structure,typically a 2-feet or 3- feet layer of asphaltor concrete Installation and maintenanceare very crucial for the performance ofArtificial Turf. For ground installations, agood quality sub-base is very important.

YamRubber Infill

AsphaltSub Base

Fig 1: Components of Artificial TurfThe pile fibres are knitted directly into thebacking using flat-bed Raschel knittingmachines which are between 4.5 m to 5 mwide to form a mechanically strong andstable structure. The sewing threads whichare used are high-strength, weather

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resistant and pigmented to exactly matchthe colouroftheturf.III Raw Materials:

The quality of the raw materials iscrucial to the performance of turf systems.Almost anything used as a carpet backinghas been used for the backing material,from jute to plastic to polyester. Highquality artificial turf uses polyester tire cordforthe backing.The fibers that make up the blades of"grass" are made of nylon or polypropyleneand can be manufactured in different ways.The nylon blades can be produced in thinsheets that are cut into strips or extrudedthrough molds to produce fibers with around or oval cross-section. The extrudedproduct results in blades that feel and actmore like biological grass. Cushioningsystems are made from rubber compoundsor from polyester foam. Rubber tires aresometimes used in the composition of therubber base, and some of the materialsused in backing can come from plastic orrubber recycling programs. The threadused to sew the pads together and also thetop fabric panels has to meet the samecriteria of strength, color retention, anddurability as the rest of the system. Careand experience must also be applied to theselection of the adhesives used to bond allthe components together.

t TYPES OF ARTIFICIAL GRASS: II Type according to infill content:

(I) Unfilled: Unfilled pitches were the firsttype of system implemented for sport.They had short pile height, were dense inquantity and had no infill material. Theywere often made of nylon, which meantthe prototypes were often tough andabrasive. Partly due to the abrasiveness,watered unfilled fields were developed andhave since been popular for elite levels ofhockey. The water is applied through anirrigation system to the surfaceimmediately before play, and it reduces theplayer-to-surface friction, modifies thespeed of the hockey ball and cools thesurface in hot weather. It can require a lotof water to maintain the playingcharacteristics, during a match ortraining

TECHNICAL TEXTILE FOCUS.

;. "

give the turf its traditional green color andto protect it from the ultraviolet rays fromthe sun.2. After the batch has been thoroughlyblended, it is fed into a large steel mixer. Thebatch is automatically mixed until it has athick, taffy-like consistency.3. The thickened liquid is then fed into anextruder, and exits in a long, thin strand ofmaterial.

4. The strands are placed on a cardingmachine and spun into a loose rope. The

loose ropes are pulled, straightened, andwoven into yarn. The nylon yarn is thenwound onto large spools.5. The yarn is then heated to set thetwisted shaped.6. Next, the yarn is taken to a tuftingmachine. The yarn is put on a bar with

skewers (a reel) behind the tufting machine.It is then fed through a tube leading to thetufting needle. The needle pierces the

primary backing of the turf and pushes theyarn into the loop. A looper, or flat hook,seizes and release the loop of nylon whilethe needle pulls back up; the backing isshifted forward and the needle once morepierces the backing further on. This processis carried out by several hundred needles,and several hundred rows of stitches arecarried out per minute. The nylon yarn isnow a carpet of artificial turf.

7. The artificial turf carpet is now rolledunder a dispenser that spreads a coating oflatex onto the underside of the turf. At thesame time, a strong secondary backing isalso coated with latex. Both of these arethen rolled onto a marriage roller, whichforms them into asandwich and seals themtogether.8. The artificial turf is then placed under

heat lamps to cure the latex.9. The turf is fed through a machine thatclips off any tufts that rise above its uniformsurface.10. Then the turf is rolled into largev/lengths and packaged. The rolls are thenshipped to the wholesaler.

INSTALLATION: IIArtificial turf installation and maintenanceis as important as its construction.

1. The base of the installation, which iseither concrete or compacted soil, must beleveled by a bulldozer and then smoothedby a steam roller. Uneven surfaces will stillbe evident once the turf is supplied.

2. For outdoor applications, intricatedrainage systems must be installed, sincethe underlying surface can absorb little,if any, rainwater.3. Turf systems can be either filled orunfilled. A filled system is designed so thatonce it is installed; a material such ascrumbled cork, rubber pellets, or sand (or amixture) is spread over the turf and rakeddown in between the fibers. The materialhelps support the blades of fiber, and alsoprovides asurface with some give, that feelsmore like the soil under a natural grasssurface. Filled systems have somelimitations, however. Filling material likecork may break down or the filling materialcan become contaminated with dirt andbecome compacted. In either case theblades are no longer supported.Maintenance may require removing andreplacing all of the fill.

Rugby

60-65 mm rubber filledj"""~"~"m"~lImj artificial grass and shock6;l; _pad

Typical SUblayers build up'

Football, " " 55-60 mm rubber filled

artificial grass and shock pad

Typical Sublayers build up'

Hockey (International)~i.iiiiil Typically 12 14 mm water filledw: artificial grass and shock pad

Typical SUblayers build up'

Hockey

~~~i[ 25 mm sand filled /16 mm dressed; artificial grass and shock pad

Typical Sublayers build up'

Artificial grass surface construction

Fig. 2 01 rent requirement 0 grass propertiesfor different sports

Proper installation is vital for guarantee along lifespan for artificial turf. Properdrainage is needed before the turfinstallation. A layer of good drainingcollection should be laid down andcompressed below the turf for safeinstallation. The turf is roll out, super gluedwith special bonding agent at line of groundwith long steel shafts. Expert installation issuggested for long-lasting constancy

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supplier that exactly prepares a site mayhave more fee - but the additional price issound value it. Special type of sand is alsoused bnot give as much of a soften feelunderneath your foot. The infill helps gripdown the turf and stops creases as well asprovides a light barricade to make sure alonger life in support of the backing. Infill isworth the funds if someone's home turfgets a bunch of use, chiefly from childrenplaying. However, it is not value theexpenditure if the artificial grass is just fordemonstration. There is a considerablestraight deal required with artificial turf.Conversely, greater than the life of anartificial lawn, the cost can be recoupedfrom side to side repairs savings. Normallyartificial turf lasts more than 20 years withsuitable maintenance and potentially up to30 years. So many dealers offer warrantiesof 8 years or more. The majority varieties ofturf have a covering to guard against UV raysand put a stop to fading. Blustery weather isnot bean anxious since the turf is secured tothe ground. During midday straight sun, thegrass may feel warm to the feel. Certain infillmay decrease heat absorption [7].

SYNTHETlCSURFACESOIRECT-HIGHDENSITIREPUCIITEDGRASS

......-...:-

4"COMPACTEOSTONE

~~-~-~- '\ -~--...... _.....-.Fig 3: Installation of Artificial Turf

II[1lUALITY CONTROLThe standards for artificial turf

used in football grounds are governed byFIFA. It specifies various ball / surface andplayer / surface tests for these turfs andcertifies as FIFA recommended 1 Star and 2Star. 1 Star is mainly for recreational,community and municipal use while 2 Starfor artificial turf designed specifically forthe playing characteristics of professional

WASTE/RECYCLING MANAGEMENT.The least expensive and least adverse

effect on the environment is when acomponent can be recycled into its originalproduct, I.e. so called 'closed loop' recycling.The second best is when it can be used inanother article which usually requires lessdemanding properties, for example face carseat fabric being recycled into backingmaterial. Typically, recycling technologiesare divided into primary; secondary, tertiary.Primary approaches involve recycling aproduct into its original form; secondaryrecycling involves melt processing a plasticproduct into a new product that has a lowerlevel of physical, mechanical and/orchemical properties. Tertiary recyclinginvolves processes such as pyrolysis andhydrolysis, which convert the plastic wastesinto basic chemicals or fuels. Recycling canbe divided into two types: chemicalrecycling and physical recycling. Theprinciple of chemical recycling is to converthigh molecular weight polymers into lowmolecular weight substances via chemicalreactions. The obtained substances can beused as the reactants for preparations ofother chemicals and polymers. In the case ofphysical recycling, manufacturing wastesand post-consumer products arereprocessed generally into new productsusing reclamations process or commingledplastics waste processing. Due to its simpler,cheaper and more environmental friendlyprocess, physical recycling is more favorablethan chemical recycling._ rN vantages of Rec cling

Reducing environmental load throughthe efficient use of resources, energyand the recycling of used products.

Recycling include petroleum savings,greenhouse gases reduced, energyconserved.

Reduces the need for landfill space. Reduces pressure on virgin resources. Results in less pollution and energy

savings, as fibers do not have to betransported.

_rRecYClingTedinolo :

The recycling of resources can bebroadly divided into thermal, material andchemical sectors. In the fiber and textileindustry, thermal recycling is intended torecover heat energy generated from theincineration of fiber wastes as thermal orelectrical energy. Material recyclingrecovers polymers from fibers or plastics,and at present, the idea of transformingpolyethylene terephthalate (PET) into fibers

is most economical and widely used forpractical purposes. Chemical recyclingrecovers monomers from waste fibers bypolymer decomposition. Impurities can beeasily removed from recovered monomers,so their quality will be made exactly equal tovirgin monomers.

Table 1: Comparison of recycling technologiesMethod Sorting Applied for RemarkThennal Not required Energy recovery Efficient cecOvel)' system

Electric power Local heating

Material Required Fiber or plastics Proper applicatioosChemical Required Aoy products Economical recovery

technologies

Rec:Vchn"JfotNorBVoven s]I I6.1 Non woven recycling process for reclaimedfibres [5]Step - I cutting of non woven waste in to pieces.The following figure no.2 describes the basiccutting machine principle.

compressing~~perknife-Elf -----+ -fI?Jl'\. Ou~etFeed~elt /~~) G

Fixed bottom kn~e . - ( )Fig 2: Cutting machine

Step 2- processing of this cut pieces in totearing machine to get reclaimed fibres

neps,unopen"dpieclIs,non-textile parts

Fig 3: Tearing machine and pin coatedtearing cylinder

Fibre:oust. hart fibresFig.4: Reclaim fibres with different lengths

6.1.2 Use of reclaimed fibres in technicaltextile

Table 2: Use of reclaimed fibres inTechnicalTextile. [5)

Use of Required libre qualityreclaimed JYpesoflibres in polymer Fineness Strenghl Lenghl ColourReinforcement(plastic,

* * *Concrete)Protection

* *against Erosio

Geotextiles* * * *

Uphostery*

*(Crimp)*

Wipes* * *

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6.2 Re-granulation from non woventextiles

All the type of non woven waste fromthermoplastic fibres such as polyethylene,polypropylene, polyamide, polyester etc.can be processed on agglomeration plantsso as to make free-flowing granulates. Thegranulate can also be used to produce fibres(generally, for lower-value application).Important characteristics for the workabilityof the granulates are sufficient meltviscosity, bulk density and flow ability. Theycan be used as heavy-insulation layers(sprinkled onto or sintered onto the backs ofmolded parts or floor covering) or as apowdery binder agent to substitutephenolic resin when producing thermallybonded nonwovens and mats. The re-granulation machines employ the principlesof grinding rapidly, agitating continuously,milling and fractioning to be heated withmulti-knives and cooling and contracting. Itproduces granules from waste materials andangle materials such as the plastics film,filament. Ribbons, pieces, soft plastic pipes,foaming materials, and degrading materials,and puts then into reproduction. It is thelatest ideal granulating equipment torecycle thermoplastics textiles andreproduce. [6]

Com osite:J'.ecyj;ling ,_Fiber reinforced composite

materials have enormous potential in theconstruction, transport and wind energysectors because of their durability, lightweight and ability to be manufactured incomplex shapes. The steady increase in theuse of composites has brought benefits inmany areas. Several research projects havebeen carried out to develop recyclingprocesses and seek ways of effectively usingrecycling material in new existingapplications. In most cases this will be glassfibre reinforced polyester and carbon fibrereinforced epoxy, and will be referred to asGFRP/CFRP (glass/ carbon fibre reinforcedpolymers) there are also thermosetcomposites using aramid, natural and otherfibres, but volumes are currently small incomparison with glass and carbon. [7]

WASTE/RECYCLING MANAGEMENT

Summary of major textile regcling oj)j)ortunitiesTable3: Summary of major textile recycling opportunities [4]

Fig.S clothing's are sorted for second handclothing market

products. Thesevalue-added products include stuffing, automotive components, and carpet underlay's,building materials such as insulation and roofing felt, and low-end blankets.Ii) Re-design of used clothing.The other category for conversion to new products is the actual re-design of used clothing. Currentfashion trends are reflected by a team of young designers who use and customize second-handclothes fora chain ofspecialty vintage c10thingst10.3Wiping and polishingcloths

Clothing that has seen the end of its useful life as such may be turned into wiping or polishingcloths for industrial use. T-shirts are a primary source forthis category because the cotton fiber makes anabsorbent rag and polishing cloth.

Opportunities and Benefits

Potential environmental benefit at endof life.

Possibly cost-effective in markets wheremechanical and physical properties not asstringent as for load-bearing composites

Less reliance on virgin fibres.Reasonably large m.arket.

Potentially large volume. Existing marketfor certain recycled textiles. Potential toimprove performance and added value torecycled textile.

Easily adapted nonwoven structures arepossible. A wide variety ofproducts couldbe develoned.

~1:;f!~~~s~~~~~pe~tiesin the buildir!g sector. Productsmanufactured using recycled textiles do not

require safety equipment when installing.

Barriers

Risk assessment for human health and environmental impact.Specification within green roof system.. Low cost ofmanyexisting systems.

Granulation of PVC product

Requires the continuous availability ofrecyclate.

Post-industrial waste in :more appropriate as post- High volume, although low added value.consum.er carpet requires cleaning and separating. Concrete structures are genem11y longOnly applicable to waste polypropylene and nylon fibre. lasting and can be recycled for hardcore

The market is price sensitive and only lower value productswould be acceptable. unless functionality could be improved

Environmental benefits versus recycling are not quantified.Confusion between compostable and recyclable products byconsumers.

Certain standards throughout the world will not allow the High volum.c, low added value. Anyuse ofpost-consum.er waste product to be used in waste carpet product fibre can be used.geo-textile (permeable woven or non-woven fabrics used Trials have shown that shredded carpetas an integral part of a structure or system. of foundation" waste can be blended into soil withsoil. and rock or similar) applications. conventional equipm.ent.Lack ofinvesbnent in R&D. Glass fibre reinforcem.entstill com.petitive on cost.

Com.posting

Building insulation

Horticultural matting

Product! process

Soil reinforcement

Textile fibre reinforceconcrete

Acoustics insulation

Non load bearingcom.posites

Filtration systems

insulation, GFRP recyclate in roofing products, In molding compounds for automotive products andPyrolysis-recovered glass fibres bound with polypropylene to form insulation slabs.Recycling ofgarments10.1 Used Clothing Markets: Recovery from the waste stream includes re-use of a product in itsoriginal form; the largest volume of goods is sorted for second hand clothing markets. [1]

10.2 Conversion to new productsTwo categories of conversion to new productswill be used here. [1]i) Breakdown offabric to fiber

Shoddy (from knits) and Mungo (from wovengarments) are terms for the breakdown of fabricto fiber through cutting, shredding,carding, and other mechanical processes. Thefiber is then re-engineered into value-added

Recycling methods for composites8.1 Mechanical grinding

GFRP recycling has tended to focus onmechanical grinding of the cured compositematerial. After suitable size reduction, thematerials are ground in a hammer mill or similarand graded into different fractions. [7]8.2 Pyrolysis

Many of the CFRP recycling projects havecentered around a partial pyrolysis process,where the resin matrix is burned off with limitedoxygen. Carbon fibres processed in this wayretain 90% or more of their original mechanicalproperties. This process has beencommercialized by recycled carbon fibre (RCF).Variants of pyrolysis have been trailed in severalplaces around the world for both glass andcarbon fibre composites. A pyrolysis process forGFRP recycling was developed at the Universityof Leeds in a method where the fluid pyrolysisproducts can be used as fuel.8.3 Fluidised bed

This process was developed at NottinghamUniversity and involves feeding scrap compositepieces, reduced to about 25 mm, into a bed ofsand. [7] The sand is fluidized with a stream of hotair at 450-5500C .The polymer breaks down andvaporizes, releasing the fibres and filler which arecarried out in the gas stream. The fibres and fillerare separated out, and the resin products are fullyoxidized in a combustion chamber, where theheat energy can be recovered. This process canbe used for both carbon and glass fibrescomposites. Glass fibres lose about 50% of theirtensile strength but retain their stiffness ifprocessed at 450C, which is sufficient to removepolyester resin. At higher temperatures morestrength is lost. Carbon fibres show strength lossof about 20% when processed at 550C (suitablefor epoxy resin), retaining original stiffness. Aparticular advantage ofthe fluidized bed processis that it is very tolerant of mixed andcontaminated materials.Applications of recycled carbon and glass fibresfrom comp.osite

Research has been undertaking and isongoing to assess feasibility of applyingcomposite recyclate in a wide variety ofapplications, but few application routes havebeen commercialized as yet. Recycled carbonfibre sell recycled milled. chopped and pelletisedcarbon fibres in competition with virgin fibreproducts. [7]

Applications such as thermoplasticpolymers- conductive, anti-static and reinforced,Anti-static paints and coatings, EMI shielding,Epoxy coatings in flotation modules, Compositetooling, Non-woven's, high-temperature

ConclusionThe environmental benefits gained from using recycled raw materials rather than virgin

materials.The textile recycling industry continues to search for new viable value-added products madefrom used textile. Several research projects have been carried out to develop recycling processes andseek ways ofeffectively using recycling material in new existing applications.AcknowledgementWe are very much thankful tothe institute forgiving us the permission to publish this paper.Reference1. YoujiangWang, "Recycling in textiles"The Textile institute woodhead publishing limited, Cambridge England.2. Artjom Roznev, "Recycling in textiles" HAMK University ofApplied Sciences Supply Chain Management.3. www.texwaste-net\wasteguidewaste-management&historytypesofwaste.htm4. Oakdene Hollins Ltd. "Maximizing Reuse and Recycling of UK Clothing and Textiles", A research report completed forthe

Departmentfor Environment, Food and Rural Affairs, October 2009S. Dipl.-ing Bernd Gulich, "Textile waste management in Germany and developments in textile recycling technology"

Sachsischen textilforschungsinstitut e.v. an derTechnischen Universitat chemritz,Germany.6. Machine manual ofChina DaoshangGroupWenzhou Plastic MachineryCo., Ltd.7. "Composite recycling summery of recent research and development", Materials KTN report, September 20108. "Composite recycling and Disposal an Environmental R&D Issue", Boeing Environmental Technote, November 2003,

vol.8, number4. ii!Z3

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INTERVIEW: IMPORTANCE OF BRANDING ------

EVERFLOWPETROFILS LTD

associations and future expectations. In short, it's a promise of value tobe received.This is where the playing field gets leveled. We all have the ability toeffectively communicate our value and difference to create preference.The challenge is to share this in the most interesting and memorable waypossible.

Q. What are your future plans for your company and its growththrough Branding?

Ans. I would like expand our company's business in overseas marketwith specific brand.The objectives that a good brand will achieve include:

1. Delivers the message clearly2. Confirms your credibility3. Connects your target prospects emotionally4. Motivates the buyer5. Concretes User Loyalty

Branding Strategy: Brand identity is a vital part of a business, and itshould be incorporated into many key aspects and areas.

1. Company name, logo, or slogan2. Company letterhead3. Company forms4. Marketing materials and advertising5. Signage6. Web sites7. Uniforms8. Promotional items such as pens and pencils, key chains,

ball caps, tote bagsTo succeed in branding you must understand the needs and wants of

your customers and prospects. You do this by integrating your brandstrategies through your company at every point of public contact.

Your brand resides within the hearts and minds of customers,clients, and prospects. It is the sum total of their experiences andperceptions, some of which you can influence, and some that you cannot.

ii!Z3

Q. Please share your experience after & before branding?Ans. Branding goes way beyond just a logo or graphic element. Whenyou think about your brand, you really want to think about your entirecustomer experience...everything from your logo, your website, yoursocial media experiences, the way you answer the phone, to the wayyour customers experience your staff. When you look at this broaddefinition of branding, it can be a bit overwhelming to think about whatis involved in your brand.In short, your brand is the way your customer perceives you.Benefits of Branding:1. Branding promotes recognition.2. Your brand helps set you apart from the competition.3. Your brand tells people about your business DNA.4. Your brand provides motivation and direction for your staff5. A strong brand generates referrals.6. A strong brand helps customers know what to expect7. Your brand represents you and your promise to your customer8. Your brand helps you create clarity and stay focused.9. Your brand helps you connect with your customers emotionally.10. A strong brand provides your business value.

Everflow Petrofils Ltd. is manufacturer and exporter of polyester &Cotton yarn, fibre and polyester PET chips.Company motto is "Turning Waste into Wealth", follow an eco-friendlymethod and highly believe that waste can be converted into wealth ifpeople really support in keeping the Globe Green.

Q. What and how much is the importance of branding in the textileindustry?Ans: International trade in textiles and clothing has played an importantrole in the development process of many countries and has also facilitatedtheir integration in to the world economy. The Branding oftextile productis key role in international trade because its define image of company'svalue.

Q. What branding means to you/your company? How it is importancein marketing your products?Ans: Branding is one of the most important aspects of any business, largeor small, retail or B2B. An effective brand strategy gives a major edge inincreasingly competitive markets. Simply put, your brand is your promiseto your customer. It tells them what they can expect from your productsand services, and it differentiates your offering from your competitors'.Your brand is derived from who you are, who you want to be and whopeople perceive you to be.

Q. Do you think, textile Industry needs more branding, if yes, why?Ans: Textile industry is growing day by day and also there is morecompetition between top most players like Adidas, Nike, Lewis and alsosmall player and emerging player of textile industry. So every companyneeds branding image in the market for getting good volume businessfrom market.

Q. What is your branding strategy, what kind of medium you use forbranding?Ans: Brand strategy is a long-term plan forthe development of a successfulbrand in order to achieve specific goals. A well-defined and executedbrand strategy affects all aspects of a business and is directly connected toconsumer needs, emotions, and competitive environments.Medium of Branding in Market:1. B2B marketing2. Advertising in Trade portal related with textile products3. Advertising in News paper and magazines4. Participation in various Exhibitions

Q. Do you think Branding is an expenses or investment?Ans: Fortunately for small businesses today, you don't have to be acorporate giant to make branding your secret weapon. It's a shortcut ofbeliefs and values that simplify our decision making process. It holds aposition in our customer's mind based on past experiences, current

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FASHION FABRICS

RAHI UI J Ay

.. 0"8 u

~~

TECHNICAL TEXTILE FOCUS.India's Technical Textiles Sector; Having Mixed Symptoms of Growth

India's technical textile sector, which also encompasses thenonwovens and industrial textiles, persists in its story and yet prefersto remain in the grey area of production and demand really notpicking up as per the expectations and 'over hype' created by theGovt departments like the office ofTextile Commissioner and Ministryof Textiles promoting and supporting this emerging sector which hasbeen projected as 'sunrise 'for Indian textile indusry.

The Present scenario and the Need:The slow lifting of recession in the EC and theUSA, leading to much reduced export demandfor commodity Indian textiles and apparels hasseen the Indian traditional/core textile industrynot making much headway in export or domesticconsumption especially since last 2 years. India stotal textile exports plateau at USD 32 billionmarkvis avis the targets ad expectations of$ SObillion. The import policy and see-saw ofChinas textile imports, especially for cotton andyarns, has also been playing a spoil sport forIndia which had diverted most of its exportfocus to China s import demand for cotton andyarns vis a vis the much reduced demand fromthe EC and the USA importing blocks whichearlier consumed 60% of all textile exports. Thisvolatility has been happening over last 2-3years despite the Govt. extra ordinary supportby providing TUF subsidy to core textile sectorand also creating 3 dozen Apparel Parks acrossthe country.

Nowonderthat the thinktanks attheMinistry and research institutions have beenworking furiously to promote the Technicaltextile sector,and shOWing with specialincentives and subsidies for interestconcessions and rebate on import duty etc. Thishas helped reduce to [ only minor extent] theimport of nonwovens and technical textiles; butas not yet succeeded in a growing and stable orrecurring domestic consumption of technicaltextiles in India from much touted industryconsumers like Automobile and medical textiles.The huge imports of Disposable nonwovensinto India by the major MNC like P&G ,KimberlyClarke and Johnsons have not faced muchcompetition from Indian nonwoven players likeGinni group having a global size 'spun lace 'typenonwoven fabric unit in State of Gujarat.Theother domestic lead Cos like Supreme in westzone and Uniproducts in the north zone haveplayed safe by feeding domestic demand forFilter and automobile industry users.They havestayed away from the disposable segmentcontrolled by the MNCs.

Over the last 2-3 years, country has alsobeen exposed to a plethora of Seminars,technical textile Expos etc organised at rate ofOne per quarter by industry supporting bodieslike the Ministry, the trade Chambers like FICCI,Cil and trade bodies like Messe Frankfurt.This

has certainly enhanced awareness and visibilityfor the product lines of both large and small tomedium producers in the technical textilesdomain; butthe market and the buyers could notflood in. The grey factor and cloudiness in themarkets is persistent and not yet allowing thesector to grow at the publicised pace of 12%CAGR to take a share of 13-15% in all textileoutput of India. One key reasons is the non-clarity on the product end uses and cloudiness insubstitution potential of nonwovens overtraditional textiles. The Govt figures arepromoting the available market size of 12-13 $billion for the India stechnical textile.However, isthis the available market size in terms of productdemand/consumption or is it the projecteddemand including import potential? Thisremain a major dark area and query from allindustry watchers looking out for the realtangible market size specific to each category oftechnical textile/nonwove products.

With the above background, aninternational level expo on technical textiles,titled TECHNOTEX 2014 was organised inMumbai during March 2014 by FICCI-Federation of Indian Industries Chambers ofCommerce in co operation with the Ministry ofTextiles, and Govt of Maharasthra. The Expoinvited active participation from Indianindustry, machine suppliers and internationalCos in the technical textiles field, namely Dornier,Oerlikon,Teijin of Japan, Taiwan TextileFederation and host of Chinese co sactive in thenonwoven sector. The Indian Cos leading theroad for technical textiles,namely Welspungroup, Alok Ind group,Ginni Nonwovens,SRF Ltdand Madura Industrial Textiles group werepresent with showcasing of their products inboth semi durable and disposable nonwovenproduct range. The TECHNOTEX 2014 EXPO alsosaw the participation of COEs-Centres ofExcellence- namely SITRA, BTRA and DKTEwhich have been set up by the Ministry toprovide technical support and productdevelopment/testing and certification servicesto a large range of products and especiallyMedical textiles, Geo textiles, others.

The Road map for future: TECHNOTEX 2014is expected to work as a step ladder foraccelerating technical textiles usage and towardsstrengthening ,both institutional and industrybuying. The Expo has providing the Road map

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and way forward to different end use segments,as below; Defence sector will evolve as largest

consumer of protection textiles andwill generate a demand of $ 960 millionby 2016-17 including considerableimports,

India s 'Meditex' or medical textilessector is to grow at highest rate of 18-20% to touch a level of $1030 million by2016-17,as per estimates of Ministry ofTextiles.

Govts favourable policies aimed atincreasing access to quality healthcarewill have a positive and strong impacton technical textiles used in medicaltextile end uses.

Indian Geotextile segment is expected togrow at a high rate of 18-20% p.a totouch a level of $200 million by 2016,asper estimates of Ministry ofTextiles.Thiswill be riding on the sustainable GDPgrowth of 5-5.5% over next 3-4 years;and an increase in the investment forenhancing Infrastructure once the newGovt is in,as the consumption ofGeotex products is mainly driven bynew capex in infrastructure projects.Another sunrise sector is theincreasing use of Technical textiles inAgri-sector where the demand isestimated to grow to $620 million byyear 2017-18.

With revival in demand of domesticpassenger cars,and India becoming ahub for car exports by MNC Co s; thedemand for Filter and felt products willgo up too.

The participation of some new playersalso showed the way forward foraccelerating the usage of technicaltextiles in the Agriculture and sportsdomain.As per the Ministry, the IndianAgrotex and Sportex segments have juststarted on the growth pathand,estimated to touch $340 min forSportex.

Dr. Ela M. Dedhia.Head & Associate Professor

Department of Textiles & Fashion TechnologyNirmala Niketan College of Home Science,

Mumbai University

Mrs. Neera BarooahAssistant Professor

Department of Textiles & Apparel DesigningS.V.T. College of Home Science (Autonomous)

S.N.D.T. Women's University, Mumbai

SYMBOLISM IN TRIBAL TEXTILES~-----.--------~~

Literature review indicated fewstudies conducted with regards to thesignificance designs and motifs used in thetribal textiles. Teron, R.et.al. (2012)explored the traditional motifs and designs,its relationship with socio-religio-culturallife and dynamism of traditional knowledgein the study 'Biological motifs and designson traditional costumes among Karbis ofAssam'. The study found that motifs anddesigns used in their textiles are not merelya display but they are deeply associatedwith their social, cultural and religious life.The decorative designs used in woventextiles were influenced by the surroundingnature; certain objects of household use,which has many of which has socio-religious-cultural significance. Tuthill, E.(2012), in the research 'The Developmentand Symbolism in Maya Textiles' reportedthat within Maya societies, both ancient andcurrent, weaving reveals a deep symbolicnature that embodies numerous aspects ofculture. Not only garments play role in dailylife and ceremonial purposes, weavingprocess is connected to certain essential

The study aimed to understand the symbolic significance of motifs and designs used intribal textiles in the light of gradual disappearance of ethnic textiles. Tribal textile is symbolic,represent status of wearer, and impart power to the wearer or user. The study found that theway tribal people produce textiles indicate to a great deal about their belief, culture andrelationship with the environment. Colour, shape, and their arrangements have differentmeaning. More often designs have geometrical forms. Diversity in tribal textile forms isastounding and it represents rich cultural heritage. Tribal weavers painstakingly create designon textiles for every day and occasional wear. Within the tribal societies, weaving textiles anddesigns on textile reveal a deep symbolic nature that encompasses their culture. It also hassocial implications with regards to gender and status. The study found that motifs and designswere inspired by nature, their belief and folklore.Keywords: Symbolic, Nature, geometricalforms, culture,folklore.INTRODUCTION organizations, language, rituals and festivals

Over centuries, tribal textiles produced and also, through dress, ornaments, artsin six continents reveal mankind's highly and crafts (Panigrahi, N., 2006:33). From therich skill, creativity and aesthetic sense. earlier times, textiles came to be associatedHand woven textile is one of the creative with social and ritualistic tradition amongproducts, which carries lot of significance in the tribes playing a key role socio-economicmany tribal societies; it is symbolic, life of the community. The colours, patternsrepresents status of wearer, and imparts and designs signify artistic property andpower to the wearer or user. The way tribal social significance.people produce textiles indicate to a great REVIEW OF LITERATUREdeal about their belief, culture andrelationship with the environment(http://www.mmtimes.com/2010/timeout/536/timeout02.html). Handloom weavingas afolk art having age old features forms anintegral part of the culture and tradition ofthe diverse ethnic groups with diversesocio-cultural background in Assam, thenorth eastern state of India. Hand woventextiles these tribes profile extraordinarycraft of each tribe, shares weaver's skillthrough woven stories. Skills andtechniques of craft such as weaving andfolklore were handed down orally over tothe next generation.

The tribal culture has two aspects; thematerial culture consist of their habits ofclothing, eating, mode of farming, etc andthe non-material culture consist of theirvalues, status and roles, language, beliefs,symbols and goals. Hence, their culture is acomplex phenomenon of all these aspects.Tribal people express their cultural identityand distinctiveness through their social

tenants, such as gender, class, and ethnicdistinction as well as the creation myth.Textiles playa role in social class. That is why,Maya textiles must not be examined withthe superficial aesthetic value, and ratherthe role they play in social identity.Arathoon, B. (2012), studied the symbolismin costumes worn by Maya in Guatemala.She reported that the traditional costumesworn by Maya in Guatemala, as well asweaving are integral part of every day andceremonial life. In case of traditionalcostumes, the combination offeatures suchas colour, material, techniques, style of thegarment and the ways of wearing themechoes of the users identity, his/hr statuswithin the community, the specific occasionhe or she is involved in, like every day choresor ceremonies require special attire or tointeract with god. In Mayan culture, stripesofdiamonds and diagonal lines woven in theQuetzalthenaago brotherhood symbolizesthe route of sun during the winter time, andthat a row of stars in the same weaving canbe the Milky Way. The author felt thatmasculine figure appear in the cloth couldbe rain god. The zigzag line that appears onnapkin could be ofserpent. Serpent is one ofthe most widely spread cosmological figurein Guatemalan textiles tradition. Kurane, A.(2012), in her study on 'Symbolism of NagaHandloom', aimed to understand thesymbolism in Naga handloom and theirsignificance by understanding the waytextiles are made, purposes of using, thevarieties and names of textiles, meaning ofsymbols, and changing patterns of fivemajor Naga tribes. Nagaland handloomtextiles are of high quality with superiortexture. The study found that motifs anddesigns differ according to the tribes. Themain symbols of the Nagaland textiles arethe animal figures, arms and armour,currency, human head, geometricalpatterns, star, moon, sun etc. The studyconcluded that the rich tradition of textileweaving incorporates a variety of patternsor motifs to show cultural identity, socialstatus, education, tribe and clan differencestribal belonging, migration routes andwealth.

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SYMBOLISM IN TRIBAL TEXTILES -----

Throughout the world indigenouscultures are under threat from the forces ofmodernization and globalization(www.mexicantextiles.com). Textileweaving craft of different tribes in Assam isalso facing the same problem. Knowledge ofincorporating traditionally used motifs anddesigns are fast disappearing; even weavingin back-strap loom is confined to only a fewelderly women (Teron, et.al: 2012).Considering the declining trend in tribaltextile tradition in the region as more andmore tribal people of younger generationstaying away from perusing this craft ofweaving, it was felt necessary to takemeasure for preserving the symbolicmeaning of the tribal designs and motifs.

Hence, this study was taken up tounderstand the significance of motifs anddesigns used in tribal textiles and documenttribal designs before the identity of suchdesigns are lost.

METHODOLOGY

Six tribes from Assam, namely, Bodo,Karbi, Dimasa, Mishing, Rabha and Tiwawere considered for the study. An Interviewschedule was administered to twentyweavers from each of these tribes to elicitinformation with regards to their weavingtechniques; attempts were made to obtaininformation on the symbolic meaning of themotifs and designs from the elderly weaversfrom each tribe.Results and Discussion: It was found thattribal weavers used back-strap loom, throwshuttle loom and fly shuttle looms to createinimitable woven products. In the tribalsociety, weaving process involve greatercreativity of the weaver in the basic pattern.Different elements of nature werecommonly found the tribal designs. Theflora and fauna of nature included flower,creeper, seed, plant, hills, flowing water;animal forms included elephant, deer,horse, rabbit, etc.; the utilitarian item in theform of hand fan, aero-plane, button, sicklewith the serrated edge, box, flower vase arefrequently used, bird motifs includespeacock, parrot, kingfisher, pigeon; and

celestial objects such as sun, moon, starswere the chief inspiration of designs oftribal textiles; along with these designs,tribal weavers also include certain abstractmotifs such as crab's claw, pigeon's eye,dove's neck etc. Colour, shape, and theirarrangements have different meaning.More often designs have geometrical forms.Textiles played an important role in manytraditional events and ceremonies.Diamonds in different forms arecharacteristics oftribal design.

The Bodos are a colourful tribe. Green,yellow, golden yellow are predominantcolour in their costumes. According Bodoweavers, green colour signifies theircloseness to the nature and golden yellow,the colour of paddy field before harvesting.The main traditional costume of Bodowomen is 'Dakhana'. Various names aregiven depending on the colours and designs;the most traditional one is called 'Bidan',which is golden yellow in colour with thinlengthwise stripes of green and redgenerally woven with plain weave; however,the most auspicious one usually worn by thebride is woven with twill weave withprominent twill line at the background,which is called 'Kashi hathai agar' (sickleedged). Some notable Bodo designs are-

1. Chari bati design: The Bodos considerthis diamond shaped design as theirauspicious design; it is called 'Charibati'design as it requires four harnesses and fourtreadles to weaves this fabric.2. Mukkardama agar: Design in the shapeof court, which signifies that when a personwearing design goes to fight a case in court,he or she will return as winner.Other miscellaneous designs are: DhinkhiaPhul: The shape of 'Fern', Jong agar: Designshaving points at both the ends, Pharaomegan agar: Pigeon's eye, Daguthu gadu:

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Dove's neck, Chunga agar: Small pipeshape, Maoji afa agar: Shape of cat's paw,Maoji afa agar: Shape of cat's paw, Arshiplul agar: Mirror design, Butterfly: Sikriagar.

The Dimasa is a colourful tribe having widerange of textiles, woven in the throw shuttleand fly shuttle looms. The Dimasa designsare usually geometrical in shape; they do notuse stylized forms in their designs. However,there is great influence of surroundingnature in their designs. Dimasa textile is verycolourful; usually they use more than threecolours. The common colours: red, yellow,green, black etc.The most frequently used designs are: Thaidi bar: au Tenga flower, Dilam Patai(Pomegranate leaf), Tilam Patai (leaf ofWater lily), Rudai lao, (Castor leaf), fumalai(Eri worm), Patha ramai (Parrot), Kesep(Hand fan}The other common designs are earthworm, mongoose, elephant, rabbit etc.

Karbi tribe:Karbi design

Karbi textiles belonging to both hillKarbis and plain Karbis is characterised byelegant, colourful design, whichdemonstrates expertise of Karbi weavers.Karbi textiles belonging to both hill Karbisand plain Karbis is characterised by elegant,colourful design, which demonstratesexpertise of Karbi weavers. Majorityofthe

SYMBOLISM IN TRIBAL TEXTILES

L.....---- _

Conclusion: Diversity in tribal textile formsis astounding and it represents rich culturalheritage. Tribal weavers painstakingly createdesign on textiles for every day and occasionalwear. Within the tribal societies, weavingtextilesand designs on textile reveal a deep symbolicnature that encompasses their culture. It alsohas social implications with regards to genderand status. The study found that motifs anddesigns were inspired by nature, their belief andfolklore. However, the younger generation fromeach of the tribe were unaware of the symbolicmeaning ofthe designs.References:1. Kurane, A. (2013), Symbolism in Naga Handloom

(Abstract), International Union of Anthropological andethnological Sciences-2013, UK. Retrieved fromhttp://www.iuaes2013.org/index.html

2. Tuthill, E. (2012), The Development and Symbolism inMaya Textiles, CJA anthro Journal, Retrieved fromantrojurnl.comfissuefOctober-2011

3. Teron, R. and Borthakur, S.K.(2012), Biological motifsand designs on traditional costumes among Karbis ofAssam, Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge Vol. 11(2), April 2012, 30S-308. Retrieved fromhttp://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/1234S6789/13861I1/IJTK%2011(2)%2030S-308.pdf

4. Panigrahi, N. (2006), Tribal Culture during colonial Rule,Orissa Overview, January, 2006, Retrieved fromhttp://orissa.gov.in/e-magazine/Orissareview/jan2006/engpdfaribal Cultur~.,

S. Arathoon, B., Pre-Hispanic traces in the symbolism ofMaya weaving in Guatemala (n.d.). Retrieved fromwww.famsi.org/reports/03101l01arathoonpfd

6. Mexican Indigenous textile project (n.d.). Retrievedfrom www.mexicantextiles.com

7. Pwint. Z.P. (n.d.), In ethnic textiles, history is woven,by, Retrieved from

Tiwa textiles

Like other tribes of north east India,the Tiwas are greatly influenced by thesurrounding environment, which isdepicted through their textile practices anddesigns. The dominant colours observed inthe Tiwa textiles are Green, red, black,golden yellow, purple, orange, blue etc.Following are some of the motifs commonlyfound in the Tiwa textiles: Turomo (pigeon'seye), Pharewmo (Dove's eye), Khukrilaphlikhum (Dog's footprints), Sukuri Khum(Butterfly), Phangdali Khum (Branch oftree), Kilalenggai (Climber plant havingSeveral bend), Muikhuri (Unique design ofTiwas), Mirakrang (Peacock), Sing-kong(Imaginary Horse headed lion); othercommon designs include Sunflower,Weaver bird, hand fan.

and motifs.The Mishing designs reveal their

closeness to the nature. The chiefcharacteristics of Mishing design is the useof geometrical shapes in the form oftriangular shapes and diamonds along withbands of lines. Continuous diamond formsand waves feature very prominently in theborders of Mishing textiles. The triangulardesigns represent hills, which are narrow atthe top and broad at the bottom. Thebutties, generally seen in the Indiantraditional textiles are woven in Mishingtextiles in the form of star or flowers, whichappear all over the women's costumes. Thedesigns generally consist of geometricalvarious forms of birds, deer, horse (Dumso),butterfly, and sprays of flowers, star, andtrees in a number of combinations. Floralbutties on black background is oftencompared to the night sky. Continuousdiamond forms and waves feature veryprominently in the borders of Mishingtextiles. The colours used in Mishing textileshas significant meaning related to naturesuch as black represent darkness, bluerepresents sky, green represents greenpasture of nature. Married Mishing womenwear with horizontal red, white and blackstripes to keep evil eyes away.

The Rabhas are one of the importanttribe of Assam. The Rabha womencontributed greatly towards the economyof the family. All the textile productionrelated activities were carried out by thewoman of the house. Rabha designs aregenerally in geometrical form, however,stylized form of designs are also notuncommon among Rabha weavers.Practically, they use all the colours butgreen colour appears to be more common.Some common designs of Rabha tribe are:Jeb (hand fan), Han-chur (Small hill), Goray(Horse), Parao-mukum (Pegion's eye),Berga par (Flower), Machi-par (deer),Kaudi-basar (Diamond shape), Chika-dara(Wave of water). Some other commonmotifs are butterfly, different varieties ofbirds, foot print of cat, foot print of tiger,bands of lines, triangles etc.

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textiles are woven in back-strap loomsby hill Karbis.

The Karbi designs and motifs are highlyinfluenced by socio-cultural factors. Some ofthe prominent features from nature arebirds, elephant, different flowers, hand fan,nest of monitor lizard, sun rays, bird's eye,crab's eye, back-bone of fish, differentinsects, colourful beetle's wing, severalfruits and vegetables in varieties ofgeometrical forms; all such motifs arerelated to the socio-religious-culturallife ofthe Karbis. According to the Karbis, elephantsymbolizes strength, butterfly symbolizesfreedom and diamond motif symbolizesgood fortune.

Makardama design:Many of the ethnic people believe that

when they wear a dresses with a particulardesign, ensures win in court cases. TheKarbis consider the design as Markartamadesign to win court cases.

~Mishing Design

Important Karbi designsJambili Athon: The traditional design

Jambili Athon has deep significance in Karbisociety. Originally, it used to a woodcraftmade with wood of about 4.00 meters inheight consist of a central axis with fourbranches. At the tip of central axis, a drongo(local bird) is perched; on the four otherlateral branched other varieties of drongosare perched. The significance of JambiliAthon is based on legend; according to thelegend, the main drongo signifies the kingand other four smaller birds are his people,whom he protects with symbolic co-existence of everyone in the kingdom.Jambili Athon is adapted as a textile designin variety of ways in different colour-combinations.

The Mishings is the second largest triberesiding in Assam. The wide range of textileproduct reflects the mastery of Mishingweavers; it is a traditional craft, which theyhave been nurturing since time immemorial.The unique feature of Mishing textiles isbright colour combination, elegant designs

POST-SHOW REPORT -----

F&A TRADE SHOW & HOMTEX - 2014RIDE HIGH ON THE CREST OF A POSITIVE BUSINESS CLIMATE

It was with great expectation thatcompanies from the fabrics, accessories,home textiles and service industries came toBangalore, to exhibit at the Fabrics &Accessories Trade Show (F&A) and the IndiaInternational Home Textile Exhibition(Homtex) 2014, South India's most importanttrade fairs in their respective sectors. Theupturn in sentiments along with a confidentbusiness climate brought about by theelection of a stable Government at the Centre,justified hopes of a good fair and brisk postshow business. In fact, these expectationswere actually exceeded over the three days ofthe expos that ended on June 1, 2014.

Exhibitors reported unanimously onnumerous concrete project inquiries, intensenegotiations with trade visitors fromthroughout the world and a remarkablenumber of business deals, some of whichwere concluded instantaneously and quite anumber of which were worth millions ofrupees.

The many innovative products andapplications premiered at the F&A Show andHomtex met with great interest from tradevisitors. The innovations were not justadmired as many, very concrete negotiationswere held and contracts were signed. Manycustomers are expanding their capacities andare investing in new technologies to sharpentheir global competitive edge.This view wasechoed and shared by the 108 exhibitorsthroughout all areas ofthe show.

Mr K. Kanan, General Manager (Tech),VTM Limited, Madurai said "We haveattended a number of fairs like this, but by farthis is really good. We got good number ofinquiries right from buying houses to directcustomers. Our range consisted cotton grayfabrics and bed linen which we are supplyingto a lot of corporate customers. Once again Iwould say the response has been quite good."

MrKalpeshBadani, President-RMG,Nirvan Silk Mills Pvt Ltd,Mumbai, said "This isthe first time we are participating in this show.We got connected to a good number ofcorporates and buying houses. The footfallswere good and whoever came in here wasinterested in doing serious business."

Mr TarunKhanna, Partner, SJKInternational, Amritsar, said "It was apleasure to participate in the show. It wasvery well organized and the look and feel ofthe event was very fresh andpleasing(especially because of the greencarpets). We look forward to participate inthe F&A show next year. My suggestion is ifyou can organize a similar fabrics trade showof a bigger magnitude in Delhi/NCR region asDelhi is a HUGE market. DO give it a seriousthought. All your existing customers ofF&AShow Bangalore will immediatelyconfirm their participation I am very sure sowe can really make a beginning in the Delhimarket also.

Mr MohitChhabra, Director, A lamoda Textile Co Ltd, China, said "F&A hashelped me a lot to grow my business. This is avery good show and I got a very goodresponse from the visitors. We had a lot ofvisitors from Bangalore, Kerala and theChennai regions who were interested in ourlace and linen fabrics."

Mr E. W. Ganns, Managing Director,Union Knopf (HK) Limited, said "The trafficand quality of visitors were very good. Theshow too is progressing with each edition."

Leading textile manufacturerRaymond Limited, Thane, used the Homtexplatform to showcase their innovations to theSouth India market."The scope for brandedproducts is huge in South India," said MrPankaj Saxena, Deputy General Manager-

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Sales, Raymond Ltd, "Retailers from SouthIndia visited our stall and we were able reachout to them. Homtex has been a valuablelaunch platform for us."

MrLokeshOza, Director, CitizenSynthetics Pvt Ltd, Bhiwandi, said "This is thefirst time at Homtex and the show was verygood and we are expecting a good market inthis region. We met good clients and withthem I hopetodevelopthis newmarket."

The show attracted 3,622 visitorsfrom all across the country; a large numberfrom the neighbouring premiere textileproducing centres like Karur, Salem, Tirupur,Madurai, Coimbatore, and Chennai amongstothers. Besides the delegation from Sri Lanka,overseas visitors included those from theMiddle East, Thailand, Turkey, France,Switzerland, China and Russia.

Mr Walter Perera, Chairman &ManagingDirector, Queens WorkWear Pvt Ltd, Sri Lanka, whohad come specifically for this show said heconnected with a couple of companies that maketwills and will be following up with them. He said"At present much of the fabrics are sourced fromChina and elsewhere. India is only an hour and halfaway from Sri Lanka and there is a lot of scope forIndian fabrics in our country."

Mr. Jayasiri Silva, Managing Director,Nordtex Pvt Ltd, Sri Lanka, said "The presentationand organising of the show is excellent. It's muchbetter than the last time I visited this show. I wasable to collect a lot of information and was able topick up good samples. We are working on theprices and if the prices work out competitive, wewill definitely be placing the orders."

Mr Vincent Sannet, Managing Director,V. S. Sourcing Pvt Ltd, Tirupur, said "We are abuyinghouse exporting to Europe, especially France. TheHomtex section was very interesting and I did findvery interesting range of products here. I will befollowing up with them."

On the other hand Ms Ruby JayanGeorge, CEO, Gokaldas Exports Ltd, Bangalore, was

POST-SHOW REPORTlooking for a particular kind of lace, like polyester 100gsm with bigger widths,and could get a couple of new suppliers at the show. "We will be taking thisforward. It's forums like this where we get to meet multiple vendors and getcompetitive categories. This show is on its way to be world c1ass:'she said. Show appreciated for its strong order-generating potentialConcurrent conference highlights growing opportunities in digital

textile printingThe debut edition of Heimtextil India - the world's most renowned

home furnishing and textile trade fair, proved to be an outstanding tradeplatform as it completed its three-day run on 21June, 2014at Pragati Maidanwith several companies closing a record number of deals on the showfloor.

The latest addition to the Heimtextil brand featured 113 exhibitingcompanies, and attracted 6525 business visitors, including architects,interior designers, project planners, retail chains and buying agents fromacross the nation. Recognized as a global trend-setting platform, manycompanies chose to present their new collections and ranges for 2014-15 atthe Indian edition of the show. With the fair's strategic coupling withAmbiente India - the world's leading consumer goods show, combined withthe platform's pure business-to-business structure, the event established afirm position as a sourcing destination for the domestic home fashionindustry.Concurrent Conference highlights growing opportunities indigital textile printing

Held concurrently with the exhibition was a one-day South Asia DigitalTextile Conference which served as a catalyst for digital textile printingtechnology and the new revenue model it presents fortraditional printers.Participants at the conference unanimously agreed that with India being the2nd largest textile producer in the world, digital printing in textiles canprovide a massive boost to textile consumption both inthe domestic and export market.

Speaking about the growing applications of digital printing in textiles,Mr Rana Raychoudhury, Worldwide Principal Technical Consultant (HP LargeFormat Production), Hewlett-Packard ltd. Said: " We participated atHeimtextil in Frankfurt, Tokyo and now in India and believe that this is theperfect meeting ground to connect with industry professionals and Educatethem about the freedom that digital printing offers. Textile businessessession was well attended with a lot of questions and inputs from theaudience. Even after the session a lot of people came to our stall withinquires. The home fashion industry presents a lot of creative opportunitiesand digital printing opens room for experimentation.

Well-attended by professionals from the design consulting andproduction sides the conference brought Economical and technical aspectsofdigital textile printing to the forefront and highlighted the future road mapfor the industry. Mr. Deepak Arora, Senior Manager, Indi count Industrieswho attended the sessions remarked" high speed digital printing is the nextbig revolution that will lead the textile industry and the seminar was a greatplace to gain an understanding of what international and domesticcompanies are doing in this sector. The seminar gave me a good insight aboutthe future.

For further information about Heimtextil India, please visitwww.heimtextil-india.in

HEIMTEXTIL INDIA SETS THE BENCHMARK FOR HOMEFURNISHING AND TEXTILE INNOVATIONS

"The strategic shift of the venue to the Trade Centre, Karnataka TradePromotion Organisation, Whitefield, was also appreciated by the industry,who said this yearthe level oftop management and serious buyers was veryhigh, said Mr P. Krishnamurthy, CEO, SSTextile Media Pvt Ltd, organizers ofthe show.

A major highlight of the show was the Textile & AccessoriesSourcing Summit 2014 - an interactive session on Sourcing Excellence andChallenges that was held on the first day of the show. Attended by over 350industry professionals, the summit had top notch speakers like MrAtulUjagar,Country Director, Nike India, Sri Lanka and Pakistan; MrSarabjitGhose, CEO,Laguna Clothing Pvt Ltd, Bangalore; Mr Vijay Puniyani, Senior Vice President,Vardhaman Textiles Ltd, Ludhiana; MsNeetuJotwani, Director, ProductDevelopment and Sourcing (South Asia), Levi Strauss & Co., Bangalore. Theevent was moderated