kanoo world traveller 01 2012

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W I N !

A T W O - N I G H T S T A Y A T

R O Y A L R A D I S S O N , D U B A I

CARNIVAL QUEENUnder the wraps of Rio de

Janeiro’s fantastic facelift

Valencia

Why Spain’s ‘third city’could be its finest

KENYA On the trail of spectacular wildlife and luxe lodgings

ON YOUR BIKESimon Calder cycles

his way round Holland

THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE JANUARY 2012

Inside the finest

rooms in the

Indian Ocean



January 2012 K W T 3

05 check in

We round up the latest travel news to

put you in-the-know for 2012.

13 Where to stay

We head for La-La Land for hotel stays

of celebrity proportions.

14 Picture this

Take a look at this month’s trio of eye-

opening natural wonders.

21 essential selection

Rob Orchard delves in to the best

rooms the Indian Ocean has to oer.

66 Visit: tokyo

Jade Bremner explores the weird and

wonderful sights of Japan’s capital.

68 Visit: st Petersburgh

Wrap up warm and make for thishistoric (and beautiful) Russian city.

71 comPetition

Win a welcome break at the new Royal

Radisson Hotel, Dubai.

72 suite dreams

Fancy spending the night in a Missoni-

designed suite – aboard a super-yacht?

33 holland

Simon Calder takes a (tiring) bicycle

tour via Amsterdam, kids and all.

38 rio de janeiro

The Brazilian capital is about to recieve

a facelift – and become as beautiful as

its people, predicts Adrian Mourby.

44 canary islands

Star-gazing, trekking and building

(black) sandcastles in La Palma.

48 kenya

Laura Binder goes wide-eyed at the

natural wonders (and sublime lodgings)

of Africa.

56 Valencia

Why the Spanish city is stepping out

of Barcelona and Madrid’s shadows.

TRAL BITS

FATRS

contents

Kanoo World Traveller JAAR 2012

Managing Director: Victoria Hazell-Thatcher

Publishing Director: John Thatcher

Advertisement Director: Chris [email protected]

+971 4 369 0917

Group ditor: Laura Binder

[email protected]

Designers: Sarah Boland, Adam SneadeProduction Manager: Haneef Abdul

Group Advertisement Manager: Cat Steele

[email protected]

+971 4 446 1558

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are

correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller .

Jan-Jun 2011

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BPA Consumer Audit

Produced by: HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC

On the cover:

Masai warrior

at sunset, Masai

Mara, Kenya.Photolibrary

38 33

4844

56



January 2012 Kan Wl Tavelle 5

CheCk In | news

CHECK INBE INformEd, BE INspIrEd, BE THErE

the St. RegiS Doha

This month we’re waxing lyrical about an all-new (and very beautiful)

hotel in Qatar: The much-anticipated St. Regis Doha. Steeped in

Middle Eastern grandeur, the hotel’s 336 rooms and sizeable spa

make for a formidable venue overlooking the Arabian Gulf. A location,

incidentally, that lends itself perfectly to exploring the city’s culture-

rich sights: “Arts and culture connoisseurs will enjoy easy access to

the Katara Cultural Village and the nearby Museum of Islamic Arts,”

tells general manager Tareq Derbas. “For an authentic Arabian

market experience, visit Souq Waqif; located along the Corniche, it’s

home to many local restaurants, art galleries and stores that sell

handcrafted items, souvenirs and garments.” If you prefer some time

in the sun, though, the hotel’s 160-metre stretch of beach (it’s dotted

with private cabanas) will certainly do the job. But what of the hotel’s

interiors? “Inside it’s steeped in Middle Eastern mystique, presenting

seductive interiors inspired by the towering sand dunes and ancient

architecture that surround the two towers of the hotel,” says Derbas.

For the best views in the house, we favour its second-oor rooms –

each of which come with an open terrace. Plaudits also go to the St.

Regis brand’s famous butler service: “All our guests are provided with

their own butler,” says Derbas, “oering complimentary beverages,

unpacking and packing services and garment pressing.” What more

could you need? starwoodhotels.com

Qatar



6 January 2012Kanoo World Traveller

I the ofer o getting away rom

it all – and we mean really getting

away rom it all – appeals, the birth

o two new eco-cottages known as

Crot 103 will be bliss personied.

A project brought to lie by

husband and wie team Fiona

and Robbie MacKay, it’s purely

or couples, located by a loch,

and promises luxury and privacy

with an eco-riendly approach.

“Both buildings are a blend o

stone, glass and local wood, whichwe milled ourselves,” says Fiona

Mackay. “We wanted to create

something completely bespoke,

individual; architecturally beautiul

and that would blend into the

antastic wild landscape.”

When it comes to the location,

you’ll need more than a good map

to nd it: “It ’s remote; on the shore

o Loch Eribol (Britain’s deepest

sea loch) in ront o the majestic

Ben Hope,” navigates Mackay. “It’s

truly untouched and idyllic with

unspoilt panoramic views and

nature in abundance – something

happens when you get there. Your

wee world changes and you never

want to leave!”

Carbon negative, wind turbine-

generated electricity and sheep’s

wool insulation makes each abodeas guilt-ree as it is luxe (ull

glass rontages, custom-made

beds, stone showers and huge

tubs). “There is nothing to beat

sitting in a piping hot solar bath

under the stars watching the

northern lights.” raves Mackay.

neverwanttoleave.co.uk

St. BarthS

On the road to nowhereMy PeRfect tRiP…S. Barhs

Hot of the opening o the Dubai outpost oceleb-avoured nightspot Mo*Vida, ownerMarc Merran shares his avoured place toget away rom it all...

t. Barths is the

ultiate party island,

and a place I can’t

resist returning to

– you can go nuts

there, depending

on your mood!

my funniest travel

eory is fro a trip

to t. Barths last year. It was New Year’s Eve and I

had a headache so my wie gave me a sleeping tablet

and I was ast asleep by ve minutes past midnight!

The spot I would ost recoend others to eat in

when in t. Barth’s is Isola. It’s an Italian restaurant

that’s just ull o A-list stars and some o my great

riends. Everytime I’ve been it ’s been really great

meeting new people – and the ood is great, too.

The island is 24/7 fun – there are 60 clubs and

restaurants located in a small area, so there’s always

somewhere to go – it’s a real party island!

my best-kept secret fro t. Barths is Gouverneurs

Beach. This is natural sunbathing – there aren’t even

any toilets there! It’s home to breathtaking views and

simply stunning blue waters – it’s one o the most

beautiul places I’ve been to.

my three ust-have ites when travelling have to

be my iPad, panama hat and sunglasses.

When I want to relax, I also love aking for the

maldives – I love the simplicity o the ood and the

tranquillity. There I enjoy the sun by day and chill and

relax in the evenings.

And when it coes to the best travelling

copanions... it has to be good riends – anywhere

would be boring without them!

City sliCkersThis month Kanoo Travel and American Express

Vacations bring a trio o 5 day/4 night ofers ...

athens & beyond – $640

This ancient city is chock ull o sights, and this tour takes

you on sightseeing trips o Athens, Argolis and three

Greek islands, both by oot and by boat.

singapore – $530

From the land to the ocean, this Asian adventure shows

you all sides o the city, rom architecture (note City Hall)

to beachlie (Sentosa Island) and wildlie (Singapore Zoo).

kuala lumpur – $345 Arrive at the capital o Malaysia, experience a amily-

riendly day at Genting Outdoor Theme Park then drink-

in a panoramic tour rom Southeast Asia’s tallest tower.

hot offerS



January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 7

CHECK IN | NEWS

NEW HOTELS FOR 2012

GLOBAL

The end of 2011 saw the once Chedi Phuket reopen as The Surin Phuket

(thesurinphuket.com). Set on one of the most popular Thai islands, the

108-cottage resort has had a facelift from Paris architect and famed

interior designer Ed Tuttle, and the results are superb. Most of note are

its more spacious, more colourful rooms and all-new beach bar and chill-

out lounge.

It may be temporary, but Mexico’s pop-up hotel is well worth an,

albeit fleeting, visit. Papaya Playa Project (papayaplayaproject.com)

sees 99 ‘eco-cabanas’ (pictured) dot a stretch of Tulum beach until May,

2012. Essentially temporary beach huts, they’re nonetheless sure to

attract more than your average backpacker, thanks to their fluy towels,

mosquito nets draped over beds and ocean-facing hammocks.

Meanwhile, the St Regis Bal Harbour Resort (stregisbalharbour.

com) opens January 19 on Miami Beach. Make a beeline for Florida and

you can meander to the famous South Beach (a great spot for people-

watching) and peruse the revered Bal Harbour Shops – when you’re

not making the most of its slick interiors and headturning, nine-acre

oceanfront gardens, of course.

In Bahrain, the spa at Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa Sea & Spa

(sofitel.com) is now open, making it the first to oer thalassotherapy in

the GCC. For spa-lovers, it’s bliss personified: 2,000square metres, two

floors, 14 treatment rooms and a menu that utilises natural sea products

and myriad other features to boot.



8 January 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

New destinations for the New YearLooking for a new holiday spot for 2012? KWT brings you 10 of the world’s

top emerging destinations we bet you’re yet to tick o your travel list...

gloBal

1. NoRtheRN PoRtugal

While you may have already visited Portugal

for its lust-worthy Med cuisine (not to

mention ne grape), it is the country’s rst

ocial capital, nestled in the north, that’s

capturing globetrotters’ attention: Guimarães

(pictured opposite). Culture vultures in

particular will love its history-rich land – so

rich, in fact, that it scooped the title of the

new European Capital of Culture. A day-to-

day exploration will reveal medieval streets

and monuments that harbour tales of the

past. What’s more, you’ll nd yourself close

to Porto – Portugal’s second largest city and

under UNESCO World Heritage protection.

Of its top sights, the Serralves Museum of

Contemporary Art is a must (its modernist

design of sharp, white lines is well worth

a snapshot). What’s more, that mild Med

climate makes sightseeing a joy – break for a

classic ‘pastel de nata’; a small custard tart.

2. BuRMa

Setting foot in to Burma (above) is like

stepping back in time and reemerging in

ancient Asia: men wear skirt-like ‘longyi’;

grand British mansions parade from a

colonial era; and women’s faces are masked

by traditional, colourful make-up (‘thanaka’).

Thankfully, then, Aung San Suu Kyi (the

country’s pro-democracy leader) called

for tourism to return, and a multitude of

operators make trips through its streets an

easy one. Whether you’re inclined to opt for a

guided tour or not, the most luxurious of the

cruises – the Road to Mandalay river cruise by

Orient-Express – is well worth forking out for:

you’ll be whisked by boat from Bagan – an

ancient capital which appears at its best by

dawn, when a mist breaks over thousands

of pagodas (tiered towers). Yangon is also

worth a trip for Shwedagon Paya alone; 99

metres tall and decked in bright, yellow gold.

3. the falklaNDS

The Falklands archipelago is formed by

some 740 islands – and if you’re yet to visit

one, add it to your wish list. Here, Falkland

pebbles and even semi-precious stones can

be found on its northern beaches, while wild

ora and fauna are set against mountainousbackdrops and coastal stretches – a rambler’s

haven. Wildlife enthusiasts should make for

its immaculate shores to spot myriad breeds

of penguin – Kings, Rockhopppers (pictured

right), Gentoo and Magellanic among them

– or hop aboard a boat tour to spy whales

and dolphins. For history-enthusiasts,

meanwhile, the imminent 30th anniversary of

the Falklands War makes it a poignant timeto peruse the numerous museums and sites

dedicated to the 1982 conict. (The Falklands

Islands Museum tops the tourist trail.)

4. uRuguay

Of all of South America, Uruguay is unlikely

to be your rst port of call, but it’s slowly

capturing travellers’ attention – and rightly

so. If the prospect of winter sun isn’t enough

to draw you here, its party atmosphere

certainly will: its capital, Montevideo, hosts

the world’s longest carnival, a vibrant aair

that goes strong for 40 days, no less.

Expect singing, dancing and drumming

on the streets, brought to life with head-

turning outts of glitter and feathers

hugging impossibly gorgeous locals. It

begins and ends with a street parade – so

try and arrange your trip to coincide with its

beginning or tail end. Indeed, it seems that

Montevideo has anticipated an inux

of jet-setters with not one but two new

ve-star hotels: the Sotel Montevideo

Casino Carrasco and Spa and Pestana

Montevideo Hotel.

5. caMBoDia

If there’s one place to have surged up

the new destinations chart in 2011, it’s

Cambodia. Though some would argue it

was a step behind Vietnam, the ‘Kingdom

of Cambodia’ has responded to its surge




CheCk In | news

want an entirely new hotspot, check in to The

Ocean Retreat on the east coast; an intimate

resort for a maximum of 10 guests and where,

in season, you can see whales and dolphins

glide by your ocean-facing room.

10. NoRth-WeSt iNDia A sense of peace and calm seems to radiate

over this region of India, making it ideal for

those after a cultural experience of a calmer

ilk. Of the new elements to draw rst-time

visitors is its Duronto Express train, which

bridges the gap between Amritsar and

Chandigahr and will take you between the

two in a non-stop urry of green and yellow

(its carriages are famously bright). Elsewhere,

Kashmir is also calmer than in years gone by

and well worth a visit, not least for its many

ne vistas.

in popularity with a cluster of high-end

resorts: November saw Phnom Penh come

to fruit in the form of Colonial-style buildings

bunched together amid tropical terrain.

Just last month, meanwhile, we reportedthe emergence of Song Saa – Cambodia’s

very rst private-island resort, where two

sister islands on the previously untouched

Koh Rong archipelago are now dotted with

27 villas, which perch over either beach, sea

or fauna, and all of which are decked out in

stylish, beach-inspired aesthetics. With such

lavish new haunts, try not to fall prey to the

temptation of staying put (Song Saa’s privatebutler service makes it all too easy to lounge

around), and make time for its original draw –

the ancient ruins of Angkor Wat.

6. fiNlaND

Seeing the Northern Lights is an once-in-a-

lifetime pursuit and one of Finland’s remotest

snow-covered regions, Nellim, has been

tipped as the best spot from which to spy

this year’s aurora borealis, in March 2012.

(Nasa predicts it will be the best display

in half a century.) Set on the icy shore of

Lake Inari, to say that Nellim is remote is an

understatement (its village is home to one

store, one coee shop and a marina). It’s

this sheer lack of pollution, then, that lends

Nellim sublime visibility for light-hunters.

There are more deluxe spots to stay close by,

though: Igloo Village Kakslauttanen boasts

thermo-glass igloos, while the Ruka Village

Hotel has hot tubs outside, so you can gaze at

the stars from a relaxing, bubbling spot. The

snow bunnies among you will have plenty

of opportunities to bounce around too; this

part of the world is a hotbed of ice-themed

activities, our favoured pick of which is

chasing the lights by dog sled.

7. the BalkaNS

Slovenia, Montenegro and Croatia’s

Dalmation Coast all top the highlights of

this sight-rich destination. For those after

an altogether dierent sightseeing trip, it’s

also an experience best savoured from a

train cabin – after all, its heritage rail, which

preserves railways of the past, is a staple

of the region, the most notable example of

which is Sargan Eight at Mokra Gora, Serbia:

regarded as one of Europe’s nest examples

of railway engineering. Step aboard for a

closer glimpse of the top sights, (we favour

Lake Bled, a glacial lake in a piercing blue

hue) and you’ll be on a journey of spirals, hair

pin bends and even a gure-of-eight-loop.

8. taNzaNia

Just last month, Tanzania rejoiced in a special

anniversary – 50 years of independence –

and it’s a date that goes hand in hand with

signicant upgrades, making travel in the

country that bit easier. The name of the game

here is, of course, an exploration that marries

wildlife-spotting with landscape to make

your jaw drop. Serengeti (one of the world’s

major wildlife reserves) and Ngorongoro (the

world’s largest volcanic crater and home to

the highest density of big game in Africa) are

two esteemed safari spots where you can spy

wild animals roaming the East African plains:

the Big Five are all but a guarantee. Tanzania

is a destination for adventurers too – its

rust/green terrain is the motherland of Mt

Kilimanjaro, oering challenging treks, while,

for those after a more low-key pursuit, the

beaches of Zanzibar are something else.

9. taSMaNia

Wildlife, luxurious cutting-edge resorts,

culture in abundance and pristine beaches

are what’s placed Tasmania rmly on our

radar this year. Whoever you travel with,

there’ll be plenty to keep you occupied in

this wild state of Australia. Bush-walking is

as authentic an Ozzie experience as it gets,while wild shing and dolphin watching

place you in catch-your-breath range to the

island’s wildlife. The stunning landscape can

be drunk-in from luxury haunts like Sare

and the Southern Ocean Lodge – but, if you




CHECK IN | NEWS

WHAT IN THE WORLD?

3 ST KITTS CARNIVAL is a great excuse for a party

in the capital of Basseterre, where it seems the festive

season just isn’t long enough. This colourful event brings

lashings of party spirit in the form of infectiously fun parades,

no-holds-barred dancing and, best of all, the crowning of the

carnival king and queen.

6 ART IN THE WINDOWS takes hold of virtually every

empty window in Naples’ Borgo Sant Eligio, when it invites

hundreds of artists to showcase their photos and paintings in

shops and piazzas, making a truly headturning stroll.

11 KUKERI FESTIVAL Sees men draped in full

sheepskins, weird and wonderful masks and jinglingcopper belts – the norm at this time of year in Bulgaria,

when the rural villages perform an ancient ceremony

(dances and songs galore) to ward o evil.

12-15 SNOW ARENA POLO WORLD CUPin Austria brings the ‘sport of kings’ (and an injection

of glamour) on to Kitzbühel ski resort’s blankets

of snow, where well-heeled spectators (furs and all)

gather to watch six international teams compete.

20 SEMPER OPERA BALL is the highlight of every

Dresden-based socialite. Elegant ladies in floor-length gowns

parade on the arms of tuxedo-clad men and, while VIP tables are

available (at a hefty price), those on a budget can join a 10,000

strong throng who dance in the huge square outside.

24-29 ABU DHABI HSBC GOLF CHAMPIONSHIPsees the true pros tee o on what is one of the biggest games

on the PGA European Tour calendar. Four days, 30,000 viewers

and o-course entertainment make it a must-see event for golfing

fans worldwide.

11

12-15

24-29

20

3

6

THE NEW YEAR BRINGS A WHOLE OF HOST OF EVENTS IN WHICH

TO PARTAKE – OR SIMPLY SIT BACK AND ENJOY THE SHOW...



CHECK IN | WHERE TO STAY




CHECK IN | WHERE TO STAY

Hip Classic Ofbeat Chic

LA-style Themed High-end BoutiqueOR

Downtown

OR

OR

e Stan ar Downtown LA

standardhotels.comThis place is so cool, it almost hurts:

Slick, slightly ‘out there’ design

eatures and a rooftop lounge GQ

escri e as ‘t e est in t e wor ’.

‘La-La Land’, the ‘City of Angels’; whatever you call L.A. onething’s for certain; it’s a seriously cool spot for a USA break...

WHERE TO STAY...

LOS ANGELES

igueroa Hotel

figueroahotel.com

Its neon red sign in Hollywo

tyle lettering makes this 19

hotel everything you’d ho

for from classic L.A. Insid

meanwhile, a Moroccan the

pervades, from its colour pal

to its lighting, well-worn sto

nd fauna-flanked pool; a gr

spot to sup icy beverages

Laid back and very ool.

drian Los Angeles

mondrianhotel.com

g foot through this hotel’s

mahogany doors makes

el like an instant celebrity.

t, from its interiors (plush

s and bespoke furntiture)

hangouts (the open-air

ce at Skybar is a revered

) it’s got to be one of the

st spots this side of town.

e arc

leparcsuites.comTucked away in a quiet spot of West

Hollywood, this intimate hotel is about

o emerge from a $5million makeover,

injecting yet more sty e into t e area.

LA S y Boutique Hote

skyhotella.comTwenty-eight rooms, a sea of sky blue

hues (hence the name) and al resco

detailing throughout its lobby, make

this an eye-catching stopover.

Hilton Checkers Los Angeles

hiltoncheckers.comThis downtown haunt dates back

to t e 1920s, promising guests an

sc oo am ience, wit mo ern

touches (note its rooftop pool).

OR

S TAR T

HollywoodOR



Picture this

raPa ValleySarek National Park, Sweden

What you see before you is part of Europe’s largest

stretch of wilderness: the 35km long Rapa Valley, with

a 700ft near-vertical drop from edge to valley oor(gulp). The largest of its kind in Sarek National

Park, its pristine waters snake between the famed

mountain ranges and cut a contrast to its rainforest-

like vegetation. Unsurprisingly then, Rapa Valley (or

‘Rapadalen’ in Swedish) makes for a lump-in-the-throat

sight in the esh, and one that’s beheld time and again

by avid trekkers (it’s considered the most beautiful river

delta in Sweden) who traverse the unmarked paths

around it in a bid to drink-in the sight of what’s become

known as ‘Europe’s Last Wilderness’.

Image: Corbis / Arabian Eye



Picture this

lesser FlamingoesLake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Rarely do you see all-natural hues as vivid as uchsia but,

in Kenya, Lake Nakuru transorms into a sea o prawn

cocktail-pink as thousands – sometimes millions – o

long-legged famingos fock to its warm shores, where

their avoured delicacy is rie; algae. But, don’t assume

the mighty birds are all the same – two species parade

here, the Greater Flamingo with its black-tipped bill and,

pictured here, the Lesser Flamingo, with its brilliant red

bill and pink plumage. While the lake’s surace is oten

hard to decipher amid the shiting pink mass, the best

viewpoint can be gained at the park’s Baboon Cli.

A stellar photo opportunity i ever there was one...

Image: Corbis / Arabian Eye



Picture this

boiling mud Pots

Rotorua, New ZealandIf you head not to the town of Rotorua in New Zealand,

but to the lake of the same name on the country’s

southern shores, you’re nostrils will be met with the

scent of... rotten eggs. While it may not seem the

most attractive prospect, the landscape (at the heart

of the North Island) is well worth a look; a hotbed for

geothermal activity in the form of erupting geysers,

volcanoes, steaming vents and, of course, mud pots

which bubble away like a witch’s cauldron. That scent,incidentally, is a product of the geothermal activity

that releases sulphur into the atmosphere (we suggest

taking a nose peg). But, it’s not all bad; the bizarre

landscape lends itself to some truly au natural cleansing

treatments; try a mud or steaming sulphur bath.

Image: Getty / Gallo Images



EssEntial sElEction | thE BEst Rooms in thE indian ocEan



The Best

Rooms in

the Indian

OceanLooking or the fnest accommodation inthe most captivating region in the world?Rob Orchard says look no urther...

c

Taj Exotica Maldives

he Rehendi Presidential uiteWhen it comes to the Taj Exotica Maldives’ presidential

suite, it’s hard to pinpoint its nest feature. Plaudits go to

the sheer magnitude of space – 500 square metres, no less,

all of which is immaculately furnished and, perhaps best of

all, includes a glass-walled bathroom, providing a world-

class view over the ocean as you soak in the tub. Step

outside, meanwhile, and there’s plenty more to rave about:

namely, its stunning private pool with spacious sundeck

– make a beeline for its hammock and take a siesta as it

sways gently over the lagoon. Oh, and for good measure,

there’s a private butler permanently on call. We told you

it was hard to choose…

nd while you’re here... Don’t miss a sunset cruise on the

resort’s speedboat – very James Bond. tajhotels.com





Conrad Maldives Rangali Island

Water villa

There are few feelings in this life more exquisite than stepping on to the private

sundeck of your Water Villa at the Conrad Maldives Rangali Island (below and right):

in front of you there’s nothing but the turquoise waters of the island’s glorious reef –

take a few steps down and you’re in the water, idly ipping your way over the coraland teeming sea life – while behind is the resort’s superb stretch of golden beach.

Meanwhile, the water villa itself is lled with all the luxurious trimmings you could

imagine, from Bvlgari toiletries to a sleek Nespresso Machine. If you’re looking for

a soothing, inspiring getaway, this is your place.

And while you’re here... Make sure to book in for a relaxation session at the

imaginative ‘Ice cream spa’ – as delicious as it sounds. conradhotels1.hilton.com





Heritage Awali Golf & Spa Resort, Mauritius

Villa

Beautiful decoration is of prime importance in the Villas at the Heritage Awali

Golf & Spa Resort (pictured left); a pleasing blend of African and tropical

themes pervade throughout the pair of large bedrooms, the bathrooms

(trimmed with black stone) and children’s room to create a warm, open

space that makes you instantly feel at home. Behind the villa you’ll nd a

delightful gazebo and a private pool – a prime spot to put your feet up and

allow the 24-hour butler attend to your every whim.

And while you’re here... Hit the Heritage Golf Club for 18 holes on the Peter

Matkovitch-designed course; nestled between the ocean and the mountains

it’s a truly stunning site on which to perfect your swing. Heritageawali.mu




Hotel Sofitel SO Mauritius Bel Ombre

Villa Beaulieu

Whether you’re wandering through the fragrant haven of your private garden,

taking some pre-dinner exercise in your 27 square-metre pool or chilling out in a

sink-straight-in sun lounger while gazing out to sea, you’ll adore the Villa Beaulieu.

It’s lled with smart extras too – including Kenzo-designed amenities, an iPod dock

and free wi – and it’s brilliant for families, with two big bedrooms and tons of space.

And while you’re here... Be sure to reserve an evening for a long, laidback dinner

at Le Flamboyant, a restaurant by the hotel’s main innity pool, where you’ll nd

a thrilling mix of French and Mauritian dishes. softel.com

Maia Luxury Resort & Spa,

Seychelles

Ocean Panoramic Villa

When they say ‘panoramic’, they’re

not kidding. Your view at Maia is of

a heart-breakingly beautiful vista

that drops sharply away from the

edge of your designer innity pool

and reaches out towards the innite

horizon, where nothing but the

sweep of a beach-lined bay breaks

the sea. Sitting out here under the

thatched roof of your veranda, you’ll

start plotting ways to stay forever –

and that’s before you’ve witnessed

the sunsets; an extraordinary riot of

colour that really shouldn’t be missed

during your visit.

And while you’re here... Take a

personal Hatha Yoga class in your

villa, a truly invigorating experience

when paired with the spotless views

all around you. maia.com.sc




Lux* Belle-Mare, Mauritius

Maharajah Suite

With its gorgeous Indian-themed decor and its world-beating private

rooftop terrace – equipped with whirlpool and solarium, naturally – the

Maharajah Suite is a sight for sore eyes. If you’re visiting with a group,

you can get a Junior Suite directly connected to it, making family

celebrations simple. Take a few steps away from its lavish interiors,

meanwhile, and you’ll set foot on the beach’s cotton-soft sands, the lush

grass of the gardens or dip toes in to a vast, 2,000 square-metre pool.

And while you’re here... Work your way through the resort’s

seven eateries – we love the super-fresh seafood at Langoustier.

luxislandresorts.com

Shangri-La Maldives

Tree Top Villa

Bringing an imaginative, verdant twist to the classic Maldives

experience, the Tree Top Villas at the Shangri-La Maldives (pictured)

are truly secluded, surrounded by rich green vegetation. Each of the

villas are built on stilts, meaning you’re literally up among the treetops –

which also means doubly stunning vistas of the water. Here, the sound

of tropical birdsong lls the air as you take a leisurely dip in your private

innity pool. Life does not get much better than this.

And while you’re here... Enjoy a rst class dinner at Dr. Ali’s restaurant,

which focuses on ne food from the Gulf, the South China Sea and the

Indian Ocean – we defy your mouth not to water. shangri-la.com



Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort

& Spa King Presidential Villa

Set on beautiul Silhouette Island, the Hilton’s

Seychelles ofering has a lot going or it. But

perhaps nothing is quite as exceptional as its

1,090 square-metre King Presidential Villa;

a hillside haven with unobstructed ocean

views. Here you’ll nd two gigantic bedrooms,

outdoor dining area (perect or entertaining),

and a handsome private terrace. Oh, and thenthere’s the small matter o the Seychelles’

largest private swimming pool. Private beach

access and butler service complete the

dream-like package.

And while you’re here... Dedicate an evening

to Grann Kaz, a restaurant set in a plantation

house ve minutes rom the resort – one o

the loveliest dining spots in the archipelago.

1.hilton.com




www.VisitGoldCoast.com




Banyan Tree Seychelles Angsana Velavaru, Maldives



Banyan Tree Seychelles

Intendance Pool Villa

Built into the granite side of a hill overlooking the gorgeous Intendance

Bay, the Intendance Pool Villas (pictured) consist of a series of ‘luxury

areas’ connected by stairs and walkways which bring together your

sundeck, private jet pool, living pavilion, horizon-view veranda and villa– all designed with a colonial-style aesthetic. You’ll spend your visit idly

oating between them, soaking-up the fresh air, sunshine, views and

lush tropical greenery. For extra indulgence, request the mountaintop

Intendance Pool Villa which comes with its very own massage pavilion.

And while you’re here... Spend a morning soaking up the atmosphere

in the sweet-smelling botanical and spice garden. banyantree.com


Angsana Velavaru, Maldives

InOcean Villa

Angsana pitches their 11 InOcean villas as oering the opportunity to

‘Relive a picture postcard fantasy’. They’re not wrong. Everywhere you

look is perfection – from the huge, deep blue innity pools which juts

out into the ocean, to the outsized open-air hammocks (big enough forthe whole family to laze on) and the sleek modern decor of the living

room. Combine that with the overwhelming natural beauty of Velavaru

itself and you’ve got a true slice of perfection.

And while you’re here... Book in for a heavenly two-hour bamboo

massage on one of the 12 rooftop spa pavilions, where you can listen

to the waves as your troubles are kneaded away. angsana.com



water way to holiday | holland



January2012Kanoo World Traveller33

O nthescaleofparentalrecklessness,

coulditratealongsideleavingthe

childreninchargeoftheingredients

ofathermonucleardeviceoratthe

controlsofa747?Eightdaysago,

awobblyparadeofyoungsters,

rangingfromsevento13,wereinstructed–alongwith

theirparents–tocycle15milesintothecentreofaleadingEuropeancapitalattheheightoftherushhour.

Notonlydidallthreedozenofusmakeit,but

thejourneyintoAmsterdamprovedthecrowning

achievementofabarge-and-bikeholidaythatunlocked

thesub-sea-levelsecretsofHolland.

Thejourneyended,asitbegan,aboardtheAmsterdam

inthemiddleofAmsterdam.ThelatterisEurope’smost

engagingcapital;theformerisaformercargobarge,built

in1924andconverted70yearslaterintoahotelship.She

spendsthewinterhelpingtosoakupthesurplusdemand

foraccommodationinthecity,mooredhandilybetweenanoldEastIndiaman,aoatingChineserestaurantand

thecopper-burnishedhulkoftheNewMetropolis.But

betweenMarchandOctobershemeandersaroundthe

Water way to holidayThe Zuider Zee may have lost its salt, but it provides the perfect platform for an active

family holiday around the historic heart of the Netherlands, says Simon Calder

maritime highways of the Low Countries, conveying three




dozen people – and their bicycles – around the wild heart

of the Netherlands.

The IJsselmeer Family Cruise, the holiday I bought, is

a procession around the periphery of the body of water

that you and I probably know as the Zuider Zee – the‘South Sea’. Since the completion of the Afsluitdijk in 1932

to heal the broken shoulder of the Netherlands and seal

o the North Sea, it has eectively been an articial lake,

known mostly as the IJsselmeer.

The rst day set the scene for the rest of the week:

sailing, cycling, exploring. The Amsterdam quickly

shrugged o the suburbs, and emerged into a world

dominated by a huge sky, punctured by slender masts

reaching for the heavens. The clouds jostling in the westrippled Impressionistically on the water surface of the

Markermeer (the hydrology is complex hereabouts). The

narrow band of land visible on either side is enlivened by

the odd church spire, and the knowledge that some of the

reclaimed shoreline had not existed for as long as I have.

The rst port of call, Hoorn, has evidently existed even

longer than me: a 16th-century tower with defensive

pretensions stands between the harbour and the town.

On a warm summer’s evening the citizens spill out ontothe streets: either to loll on deck-chairs and gossip

outside their houses (front gardens are a rarity in Dutch

towns) or to converge on the cafes on the main square.

Like most of the ports visited, Hoorn comes with an

impressive pedigree. It was once a port for the Dutch East

India Company, the world’s rst multinational.

The rst group cycle ride was a mere 10-mile circuit,

evidently designed to allow the two guides (Gwen, a

teacher, and Louisa, a student) to assess levels of skill

and stamina. Happily for young or untoned limbs, the

Netherlands does not require mountain bikes. (Its highest

point, in the far south-east of the country, is a peak of

barely 1,000ft that is shared with Germany and Belgium.)

The IJsselmeer itinerary circles the soggy pancake at

the nation’s centre, so brows are never furrowed at the

prospect of gradients. Nor are parental nerves strained at

the prospect of collisions on the relatively rare occasions

where gentle, well-surfaced bike paths intersect with

busy roads. You soon learn to look out for shark’s teeth.

Not the fearsome sh, but the triangular white markings

that signify who has to give way: see “vvv” and it’s you.

But usually it’s the car drivers who must wait, patiently.

And they do. Holland has an even lower road fatality rate

than the gratifyingly safe UK. It shares that honour with

Iceland and Malta, but unlike those islands it has a huge

population of cyclists.

A steady 10mph on the at leaves you free to feel the

breeze brushing your cheeks. You let your eyes rest on

the scenery: avenues of beech or oak carving through

meadows populated by contented cattle or posturing

herons. Your ears tune in to a soundtrack where birdsong

Opening page: Classic

houses along a canal. This

page, clockwise rom top

let: Windmill and ower

feld, Holland; Amsterdam’s

historic houses; a couple at

one o Amsterdam’s canalside

caes; The avoured mode o

transport – a bicycle.

is usually more prevalent than motor transport, except

on a few rare occasions when the procession strays near

a rowdy highway – such as the Houtribdijk, a 20-mile-

long dyke that begins at the port of Enkhuisen. We were

quickly whisked away by boat into a tourist attraction that

celebrates Dutch pragmatism: when they didn’t like the lie

of the land, they redrew the map.

Everything you need to know about Holland is

contained in the Zuiderzee Museum: activities from

sailmaking to worshipping are celebrated in buildings

rescued from the region and reconstructed as a village

devoted to livelihoods – and lives – lost in the remarkable

history of the Netherlands. A single timber building on

the edge of the complex reveals much. Even though it

does not even make the ocial guide, it is a repository of

innovation. It was a hut for drying seaweed, which was

used variously as medicine, stung for mattresses – and

building dykes. Now, it is a gallery, full of dazzling light.

And the building material? Every timber was salvaged

from wrecked ships.

While adults ponder the strange way in which tragedy

fuels creativity, their ospring are more interested in the

austere classroom, the freshly smoked herrings and the





‘a couple of miles

from the centre

of a European

capital, you can drift

through dreamy

farmland and pretty

cottages...’





sweet shop, dispensing liquorice as salty as the Zuider

Zee used to be

Opposite page: Harbour

and sailboats at Hoorn.




Zee used to be.

Later, we sailed across the Zee to Urk – a port that,

on a Sunday evening, is about as ar as you can get rom

the eshpots and “cofee shops” o Amsterdam, even

though the Dutch capital is less than 40 miles away.Until the tide went out, permanently, in 1932, it was an

island – and a deeply religious one at that, rather like the

Isle o Lewis in the Outer Hebrides. The ultimate lock-in

was inevitably going to irk Urk’s inhabitants, particularly

when the North-East Polder was created beyond the

crumpled skirts o the town. Today, a line o 21st-century

windmills utters northwards, beneath the monument

o a mother mourning a lost sailor.

“Daddy, don’t kill the duck.” Fortunately or themallard in question, he had plenty o time to wat out o

range o my ailing paddles, and seven-year-old Poppy

ound other navigational issues on which to heckle me.

Water was a prominent eature throughout the trip: the

Amsterdam glided through much o it, and provided a

springboard or an impromptu mass leap into the lake

with the exhilaration o summer as the barge was moored

at the town o Zwartsluis (no, I hadn’t heard o it, either).

Bikes also enable you to get much closer to the water

than the motorist can manage, deep into the heart o the

Weerribben National Park. And when the path nally trails

of, you swap wheels or paddles or an hour or two in a

kayak, to explore the mysteries o the largest reshwater

wetland in north-west Europe.

We paddled amid (and oten into) the reeds and lilies;

smelled the sweet, earthy aroma o the swamp; and (as

my losing battle with the undamentals o hydrodynamics

continued), ailed to identiy most o the owers and

butteries and birds that clog this corner o Europe’s most

crowded major nation.

The Netherlands is a complex, compact mix o nature

and artice. The trip gives you plenty o time to discover

towns that are notable by their absence rom the indexes

o guidebooks. As we cycled to the barge at the end o

the duck-stalking day, Daisy, aged nine, wearily asked:

“Is this the same town as last night?” It wasn’t, but I

understood her uncertainty at seeing yet another pretty

assemblage o cottages ranged around a petite port, with

the church tower risingV Vabove. There were some great

urban treats, though: in Elburg, the entire population was

on the streets; not demonstrating, but buying and selling

in the annual municipal ea market. The list o Dutch

towns I had hitherto overlooked continued to the last day.

Naarden, of my map until eight days ago, is a bastion

town as entrancing as any in Aquitaine, with a Grote Kerk

that is indeed a great church in at least two respects: the

amazing Biblical scenes on the vaulting, and the clean,

ree loos.

Muiden – a 20-minute train ride rom Amsterdam –

turns out to be the home o Holland’s most-visited castle.

By this stage the guides’ energy was ading: “There’s thetoilets,” (points right). “There’s the town,” (points straight

ahead). “There’s the castle,” (points let).

On the basis that I had 28 minutes and counting to

inspect the ortications, I negotiated a deal with the

helpul lady or cut-price admission to this handsome

ortress, where the Dutch interpretation o heritage is

to provide video games where the aim is to drop rocks

on invaders.

As a stream o Airbuses and Boeings invaded the

airspace above the castle on their nal approach to

Schiphol airport, the nal approach to Amsterdam began:

across the middle o a gol course here, threading through

perumed pine woods there. The narrower your eld o

vision, the more joy you nd in the detail – though the 21st

century is never ar away. Beneath a motorway, across the

main Amsterdam-to-Hamburg railway line, and, ooh look,

a beach. Splash.

We lined up beside a canal. Gwen stood on a concrete

platorm and lectured us on how to survive the nal

assault on Amsterdam. “Keep right. These drivers have

had a hard day and don’t like a bunch o tourists getting

in their way.”

The last ride was a study in man-made miracles: the

mighty earthworks that the Dutch use to overcome the

design aw o living below sea level, the giant canals that

carve up the country, and the spectacular bridges that

leap across them.

The straggle o cyclists caught up with itsel in a car

park alongside the derelict Caé West-Indeë. The grati

on the wall read “Not a dime in my pocket, but a dream

in my head.” With all the children counted back in, we

weaved or the last ew hundred yards along quaysides

and across bridges, and trickled to a halt beside the

Amsterdam, in Amsterdam.

I ended the trip amazed how, a couple o miles rom

the centre o a European capital, you can drit through

dreamy armland and pretty cottages; how, in just a week,

people rom disparate lives and nations become so rmly

bonded; and how, in the course o 5,000 cyclist-miles,

no-one had got a puncture. I m a g e s : C o r b i s / A r a b i a n E y e / S h u t t e r s t o c k / N e t h e r l a n d ’ s B o a r d o f

T o u r i s m

T e x t : S i m o n C a l d e r /

T h e I n d e p e n d e n t / T h e I n t e r v i e w P e o p l e

and sailboats at Hoorn.



Brazil’s hottest city is getting a facelift.

Now we’ll really be able to admire its

beauty, says Adrian Mourby

HerNameis rio


Rio | BRazil




Opening page: Rio de

Janeiro at sunset. This

page, clockwise from top:



40January2012Kanoo World Traveller

O

nehundredyearsago,amadmanbeganhisgrand

designtoputRiodeJaneiroonthemap.Augusto

FerreiraRamoswasn’tgenuinelyinsane,butthat’s

whatmanyclaimed.Asaprofessorofengineering,

hewasconvinceditwaspossibletobuildacable-car

routefromthesuburbsofBrazil’scapitaluptothetopofthehuge

graniterockknownasMorrodaUrca.

Urcaisoneoftwovolcanicpegsthatguardtheentrancetothe

greatbayonwhichRiodeJaneirostands.Fromthere,asecondcable-

carcouldlinktotheMorrodoPaodeAcucar,whichweknowbetter

todayastheSugarLoaf.NoonepreventedProfessorRamosbutno

onethoughthe’dmanageiteither.MorrodaUrcais215metresabove

thecity,theSugarLoafis396mhigh.Yet,withinayearRamoshad

doneit.Sweetlittlecanary-yellowcarswereswayingtheirwayupto

thesummitandhe’dalreadystartedthesecondphase,toconnect

acrossthegreatchasmtotheSugarLoaf.Theviewswerestupendous

andthelocalpostcardindustrywentintooverdrive.

EverythingelsewethinkoftodayasRiodeJaneirocame

afterwards–thestatueofChristtheRedeemer,Carnivalasweknow

it,theCopacabanaPalace,OscarNiemeyerandallthosegirlsfrom

Ipanema.Today,ProfessorRamos’sachievementiscelebratedbya

statueofhimonthesummitofMorrodaUrca–asmall,benignman

inbow-tieandtrilby,whosmilesatthosewhowrotehimoandwho

arethemselvesforgottennow.

Itakeaphotoofthestatueandthenpauseintheheattoadmire

theviewasjetsbankinfrontofMorrodaUrcaandtheSugarLoaf.

Whataplacetoyinto.ThecityofRiospreadsitselfaround

anumberoftheseoldvolcanicplugs,likemossinllingarockery.

TheonlyproblemwithRioiswhathappenstoyoubetweenying

inpasttheSugarLoafandreachingtheincreasinglywell-restored

citycentrebelow.

ThereisaroadfromGaleaoInternationalAirportthatspoilsitall.

TheElevadodaPerimetralisold,rustyandcantilevered.Itcutslike

atwo-tieredBerlinWallthroughthecity’shistoricdistrict.Icamein

thiswayandwasamazedatwhatIsawbelow;colonialRiobisected

byanageing1960smonstrosity.

Modern Art musuem;

Drum troupe performing

in a Samba parade;

Performer at the Summer

Carnival; Tram Carioca

viaduct; Cafe at

the Lapa Aquaduct.

Rio | BRazil

Later, I stood below the avenue and wondered at what the city‘When I visited the




t , t t t t t ty

planners had been thinking. I had my back to Placa Tiradentes, a

popular gathering point during Rio Carnival. It’s named ater a

bearded Brazilian revolutionary whose aim was ull independence

rom the Portuguese. In 1792 he was betrayed, executed and ritually

dismembered, but since the 19th century Tiradentes has been a

national hero. He is also, curiously, patron o the military police in

Minas Gerais, the city o his birth.

Opposite me stood a whitewashed building similar to some o the

old palaces I’d seen in Tenerie – low, colonial, pan-tiled and balconied.

This was the Paço Imperiale, now hal a kilometre rom the sea and

kept away rom it by the noisy Perimetral. Today, it’s an art gallery,

restaurant and bookshop, yet back in the time o Napoleon, this was

the harbour-ront palace rom which the Portuguese Empire was ruled

(at least in theory). King John VI o Portugal lived here rom 1808

ater feeing Lisbon ollowing Napoleon’s invasion. It was the British

Navy that brought him over, along with his mother, Maria a Luoco

(Mad Maria). She was installed at a sae distance across the street, in a

Carmelite convent that still stands today. In the conused mix o post-

Napoleonic politics ater the dust had settled in Europe, King John’s

son, Prince Pedro, was in this palace in 1822 when he proclaimed

Brazil’s independence, and it was rom here that the fedgling country

was run. Even today, many Brazilians speak proudly o the act thattheir newly independent country was a liberal monarchy long beore

it was a republic.

The old harbour has long since been lled in to create a square.

Looming over it are two towering Baroque churches that are rather

squashed together: the Cathedral o Our Lady o Carmo and the

Church Ordem Terceira. In the middle o the square, acing the sea,

stands a mounted statue o General Manuel Luis Osorio, hero o

Brazil’s war against Paraguay (1864-70). Sadly, all the lettering was

smashed o in the days beore inner-city Rio cleaned up its act, soI had to take the words o a dapper old man who looked rather like

Proessor Ramos that this was, indeed, Osorio.

When I visited, the

dance oor was

busy, the band waspumping out samba…

It was everything I

had imagined when

I rst picked up my

ticket for Rio’

Opposite page: A cable

car to Sugar Loaf

Mountain.




‘The city o Rio

spreads itsel

around a number

o [these] old

volcanic plugs,

like moss inflling

a rockery’

The general and his horse stand facing a Baroque fountain by

Master Valentin where people used to do their washing. It produces

no water now. Worse, however, is the fact that statue, fountain and

palace – not to mention St James’s Fort nearby – no longer face

the sea at all but the Elevado da Perimetral. I know it’s a useful road

because my taxi used it to bring me into town, but really, it looks

horrible and it cuts o what locals call the Cultural Corridor from the

sea, which was the reason these buildings were called into being in

the rst place.

Fortunately, the city, with its eye on the 2014 World Cup, is doing

something about this insensitive piece of urban planning. The

road is going underground, thus opening up the historic centre of

Brazil’s great trading port to the bay. Better still, a whole dockland

redevelopment is planned – on rather European lines – to reclaim

the old port and make it worth visiting. I negotiated my way under

the Perimetral to nd a number of impressive warehouses that

used to serve the White Star Line on the other side. They remain

undemolished and there is an absolute jewel of an Art Deco

harbour building.

In front of it, an ugly old concrete jetty extends far into the bay, but

it is being transformed by the great and highly idiosyncratic Spanish

architect Santiago Calatrava. His characteristic white-ribbed structure

will be the port’s signature building, Museu do Amanha (Museum of

the Future), to be completed next year.

By 2014, visitors and locals will be able to walk from the narrow

Cultural Corridor to this $2.8bn (£1.75bn) waterfront redevelopment

and the historic centre will be reborn. The project has been dubbed

“The Marvelous Port”, a reference to Rio’s long-term nickname, Cidade

Maravilhosa (Marvellous City). With a characteristic touch of the

dramatic, and uncharacteristic modesty, Calatrava has declared

that his building will not dominate the landscape as his work has

in Tenerife, Liege and his home city of Valencia. “I do not want to

compete with all that Rio already has,” he says.

Retracing my steps, I passed by the fountain and the nameless

general and ducked under the Arco do Telles, a simple passageway

under a house owned by the Telles family. It led to a narrow cobbled

street, Travessa Do Comercio. There used to be many winding streets

like this before the city had its Baron Haussmann moment in the 19th

century and labyrinthine Rio was replaced by an attempted grid.

Travessa Do Comercio used not to be at all safe and in its shadows

and blind alleys you can see why. But nowadays this is prime tourist-

trap territory and tables were already being set up for lunch. I looked

for the house (No 13) where Carmen Miranda was brought up, after

she arrived from Portugal in 1910. To my surprise there was no plaque

to the lady with the tutti-frutti hat.

The streets kept twisting at right angles and eventually I came

out at the church Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Lapa dos Mercadores,

one of two in Rio dedicated to the 17th-century cult that came over

from Portugal. The current structure dates from 1870 but was closed

for many years during the bad times. It’s recently reopened and is

wonderfully gilded inside.

Nearby, at the western edge of the Lapa district, stands my

already-all-time-favourite restaurant in Rio. Every visitor should go

to the Rio Scenarium – three huge dark solid Gothic-style houses put

together in a street, Rua do Lavradio, that was once a byword for

drugs, robbery and murder.

A few years ago, the owner, who had been renting the property as

a warehouse for lm props, turned it into a bar-cum-restaurant, its

walls decorated with photo-montages of Brazilian movie stars, fridge

doors, bicycles, clocks, Chinese lanterns, you name it. Security was

tight – it still is – but the experiment worked, reclaiming this part

of Lapa for fun. When I visited, the dance oor was busy, the band

was pumping out samba and people were hanging over the internal

balconies laughing and drinking. It was everything I had imagined

when I rst picked up my ticket for Rio.

When all this is nished: when they’ve renamed the General; put

up a plaque at Travessa Do Comercio; opened more places like Rio

Scenarium; and, most importantly, got rid of that awful elevated

highway, Rio is truly going to be Cidade Maravilhosa. It will always

have its eyesores. The infamous Cathedral Sao Sebastiao do Rio de

Janeiro (built 1964-79) has been voted one of the ugliest buildings in

South America. Standing 75m high, it looks like a giant furnace out

of Blade Runner and can be picked out, clearly, from the summit of

Morro da Urca.

If Professor Ramos had seen that, he may not have bothered to

complete his bold cable-car initiative. But such mistakes are in the

past. Rio is now heading in the right direction. I can’t wait to see it

once it’s nished.

Rio | BRazil



I m a g e s : C o r b i s / A r a b i a n E y e

T e x t : A d r i a n M o u r b y / T h e I n d e p e n d e n t / T h e I n t e r v i e w P e o p l e


Star Struck




Star Struck From volcanoes and ancient forests to the stars in the night sky, there’splenty to lure adventurous families to the steep little island of La Palma

“The moon’s all splodgy.” Our road-trip to admire the

constellations above La Palma should have been an

enlightening one. After all, this is the place where,

way back in 1988, the Spanish government enacted

legislation to protect the night skies. No industry above 1,500m is

allowed on the steep sides of this tiny Canary Island; street lights

glow orange rather than white at night; electro-magnetic interference

is strictly controlled. The edict even extends to the north coast of

neighbouring Tenerife, which is visible from the eastern shores of

La Palma and a potential nuisance when it comes to light emissions.

The reason for this? A huddle of star-gazing scientists who lurk with

their telescopes near the rim of the Caldera de Taburiente, the huge

crater that dominates the island. They’re trying to discover the secrets

of the universe, you see. And for that they need dark. Lots of dark.

But dark wasn’t our problem. The Spanish government has otherthings to worry about these days, and heavy clouds in the Canaries

may well be beyond its remit. Nevertheless, inclement weather

can be a blight for amateur astronomers. Two evenings of phone

conversations with a very patient Carmelo González Rodríguez from

local company Astrotour had elicited the same response: there was

no point venturing out with a telescope.

“It is dicult to predict, particularly at this time of year,” said

Carmelo. If he’d been an astrologer rather than an astronomer, he’d

probably have suggested that our stars weren’t quite in alignment.

Neither fate nor fact was enough to deter us. That night, in the

hope that meteorological conditions would improve, I drove my family

westwards from the seaside resort of Los Cancajos to the isolated

Llano del Jablo viewpoint, high above the small town of El Paso. Upon

arrival – and having disturbed an amorous couple who drove their

steamed-up Renault away in rather a hurry – we discovered a sign

pointing to Polaris (431 light years away) and a curious wooden wheel

which could be rotated to conrm the names of the constellations,

had they been visible. Sadly Carmelo’s advice proved accurate. White

cloud obscured the Milky Way. Even the moon was, as my six-year-old

son pointed out, splodgy.

One of the challenges La Palma faces as a tourist destination isthat very little, including the skies above, is laid out for you on a plate.

Benign weather is the reason many families visit the Canary Islands,

and last year the prospect of year-round sunshine drew 1.44 million

British holidaymakers to Tenerife, the largest island in the archipelago.

La Palma, a third of Tenerife’s size, pulled in just 1 per cent of that

total, a mere 14,876 UK visitors.


Star Struck | canary ISlandS

Opening page: GTC Telescope.

This page, from top:

Timanfaya National Park;

Las Palmas.




La Palma’s relatively high rainfall delivers an alluringly verdant

landscape, but it no doubt plays a part in the island’s isolation from

mass-market tourism. As does the island’s imposing topography. It’s

one of the steepest in the world, the northern half jutting ercely from

the Atlantic. The route from the capital, Santa Cruz, along the LP-4

road to the Institute of Astrophysics observatory and beyond to the

island’s highest point, the epic Roque de los Muchachos (2,423m),

is dramatic. It passes through pine forest and lava elds on its journey

above the clouds. But it’s also tortuous: a tightly knotted ribbon of

hairpin bends and switchbacks.

In La Palma you won’t nd the tourist-friendly beaches of Tenerife’s

Playa de las Americas and Los Cristianos, dressed in imported

white sand. Instead, the sand here is volcanic and black – which can

provide an alarming contrast if you’ve neglected your tan. There’s

no equivalent of thrill-a-minute water parks, no soothingly chic

spa complexes. The majority of the coastal real estate is given over

to banana plantations rather than hotels. Four-fths of La Palma’s

income comes from the crop, the plants themselves corralled behind

walls and within polythene tents like hungry Trids.

But, of course, these are all reasons to visit La Palma, rather than

stay away. A visit here is, literally, a chance to be one in a hundred,

rather than one of the multitude.

Los Cancajos is a tidy if unremarkable throng of apartments and

aparthotels that lies just south of Santa Cruz. It’s the only substantial

tourist town on the east coast (La Palma’s sole all-inclusive complex,

The Princess, is tucked away down on the south-west shore). The

resort contains a few restaurants and shops and a ne stretch of

beach. Here cube-like blocks of black concrete have been placed

alongside the lava as shelter from Atlantic swells – as if the organic

shapes of the coast have given way to a parallel, pixelated version.

It was immediately clear that a lack of water parks would be no

deterrent to the children’s enjoyment of La Palma. An afternoon spent

building black sandcastles was followed by a snorkelling session in an

Atlantic Ocean that was still relatively warm even at the beginning

of November.

Our hotel, the Hacienda San Jorge, possessed the pre-eminent

position in Los Cancajos, its back door leading straight to the beach.

Inside, it was arranged around four sides of a tropical garden that

contained exotic ora, including a couple of examples of the Canary

Islands’ iconic Dragon Trees which looked disarmingly like huge

loo-brushes.

The rooms here – comfortable rather than stylish – each come with

a balcony and have tiny kitchens for those intent on self-catering.

Alternatively, copious buet dinners are oered in the long dining

room, or under the shade of a huge rubber tree (cus elastica

according to one of the handy botanical plaques), with views of

the salt-water swimming pool. The pink and yellow buildings are

pleasantly low-rise and low-key, the sta hugely friendly and obliging

– and the clientèle is made up almost exclusively of German hikers.

Las Palmas.

‘More than 1,000km

of marked trails runthrough these wildly

varying landscapes, the

majority comprising

challenging treks’



46 Janu ary 2012Kanoo World Traveller

‘the sand here is volcanic and black – which can provide

an alarming contrast if you’ve neglected your tan’

Star Struck | canary ISlandS

Finally, you trek down the side of a ravine, along an empty river bed

Opposite page, clockwise

from top: Pic del Teide

volcano; A Canary Island

beach; Erupting Geyser at




Hiking is La Palma’s big secret. Or at least it’s a big secret from

everyone except the Germans. The entire island was declared a World

Biosphere Reserve in 2002, oering protection to areas including pine

forest, myrtle heath, lava elds and the striking rock formations of the

Caldera de Taburiente itself.

More than 1,000km of marked trails run through these wildly

varying landscapes, the majority comprising challenging treks

through the mountainous interior. Many require either the services of

a guide or a taxi to get you back to your starting point (various “taxi

stops” are marked throughout the island, so that you can arrange a

ride home).

Perhaps the most striking terrain of all is the Bosque de Los Tiles

in the north-east, a primeval strip of ancient laurel forest positioned

at just the point where the trade winds dump their moisture on the

island. Heavy with damp, dark undergrowth and set round a series

of deep ravines, it’s the sort of place where dinosaurs probably still

roam, ploughing through the greenery and quietly digesting tourists.

The perfect place for a brisk walk, I thought.

The best-known trek here is the walk to the Marcos and Cordero

springs which, for reasons that later became clear, begins with a taxi

ride. Slightly resentfully, I handed over €60 to a cigar-chomping driver

at the visitor centre, so that the four of us could cram into the back of

his ancient 4x4 minivan alongside a Spanish and German couple.

I assumed, naively, that we’d be in for a brief trip up a hill, from

where we would potter back down through the rainforest. Fifty

minutes later, having jostled our way over the steepest, most

pot-holed track I have ever endured, we reached the starting point

for our walk. In the process our driver had virtually expired in t of

hawking, snorting and violent expectoration, while his vehicle had

fared little better. Our children, meanwhile, had fallen asleep on the

back seat, lulled by all the furious juddering. Sixty euros well spent.

The journey through Los Tiles is exhilarating and exhausting in

almost equal measure. It starts r ight among the clouds, passing

beside the tiny channel of water that runs from the mountain springs.

Then it takes in a series of 12 head-height, pitch-black, damp tunnels

(bring a torch) before hikers are required to clamber and crouch their

way through a nal water-lled conduit at the base of a cascade.

It’s all quite an adventurous undertaking when you’re travelling with

a six-year-old and his nine-year-old brother.

lled with boulders and back through a narrow valley of vast ferns and

slender laurel branches. The last viewpoint at Topo de las Barandas is

like a still from Jurassic Park: a basin of limitless green. It’s not family

friendly – the hike took us ve hours and we arrived back hot, wet and

hungry – but it’s certainly exciting.

Of course, no one wants to be intrepid every day. We spent happy

hours at La Fajana Piscinas in the north of the island, where low-lying

lava has been tastefully enhanced with concrete to construct sheltered

pools fed by the Atlantic Ocean. At high tide it’s an unnerving place to

swim, as waves crash over the low barriers. The pools at Charco Azul,

just to the south, are arguably even more picturesque, hemmed by

phalanxes of banana plants.

Near El Pilar, we came across Acropark, a high-ropes course which

had opened just a week earlier, tucked among pine trees. There

were no other guests when we visited, so the boys were allowed to

scamper around it twice, immediately becoming experts at using the

life-preserving carabiner.

Close by, a visitor centre marks the beginning of one of the greatest

hikes on the island, the Ruta de los Volcánes (Volcano Route). This

runs down the island’s centre to the southern tip, a march across a

crater-strewn landscape that was far beyond our capabilities. Instead

we attempted our own mini-version. We drove south to Fuencaliente

and took a walk along the r im of the Volcá San Antonio, the interior of

which was prickled with young pines.

Urged on by our children, we then mounted Marina and Celia,

two local camels, who conveyed us all to a viewpoint overlooking

the impressive Volcá Teneguía, which lies just to the south. In 1971,

Teneguía was the scene of La Palma’s last eruption, as the volcano

sent streams of lava down towards the coast, adding a few extra acres

of banana-friendly terrain to the island’s outline in the process.

We even managed a dose of civilisation, buying €1.30 bus tickets

for the 15-minute journey from Los Canjacos to Santa Cruz. Here

a pedestrianised, cobbled main street runs past smart shops, and

slender alleyways reveal glimpses of the ocean. Despite being the

capital city, Santa Cruz is a modest sort of place, its pleasant colonial

core defended from urban sprawl by the volcanic crater that rises

behind the steeply-raked streets.

But something drew us back to La Palma’s heart. From the national

park visitor centre, the road winds upwards to the Mirador de la

Cumbrecita, a saddle of land overlooking the 8km-wide indentation

of the Caldera de Taburiente. From here, an hour-long walk to the

viewpoints of Los Roques and Lomo de las Chozas reveals a lost world

shielded by rock walls and vivid with the bright green of Canarian

pines, a plunging scoop so vast that it traps its own clouds.

We visited twice, once at the beginning of our stay and once at the

end, striding along forest paths coated in pine needles, the views of

the Caldera spread out below us.

As for our attempt to see the rest of the universe, in the end there

was no need for that night-time drive across La Palma. The skies

nally cleared at around midnight – and from the balcony of the

Hacienda San Jorge, I looked up to see a cloudless sky glittering with

light. Our stars had nally aligned.

Timanfaya National Park.

I m a g e s : C o r b i s / A r a b i a n E y e ; O c i a l T o u r i s t O c e o f t h e C a n a r i e s

T e x t : T h e I n d e p e n d

e n t



Where the Wildthings are

How man’s hunt of the Big Five led to diminishing species, spawnedspecialist sanctuaries and - happily for us - luxury lodges for the modern jet set.

Laura Binder follows the tail of a safari evolution...


Where the Wild things are | Kenya



As morning reared its head, my travel

companion and I sat down, as always,

to a breakast o cofee, muesli and

eggs. Except, that was as normal as this

particular morning got. For as we sat

enjoying our ood, it became apparent

that we had a dining companion: what started as a large,

thickly-lashed, unblinking eye in my peripheral, became

a long, elegant neck prying through a tall window next

to me, beore a grey tongue emerged, wrapping its way

around the contents o my hand.

Said tongue belonged to a Rothschild girafe, and this

marked the beginning o my rst stop in East Arica;

Girafe Manor, a colonial manor house in Nairobi’s suburb

o Langata. It’s an experience not to be snifed at – and

it sure does wake you up in the morning. Far rom

domesticated pets, though, (with names like Daisy, Betty

and Laura, it’s easy to orget) every inch o the giant’s

patchwork-skin is wild animal – as I’m reminded on a

tour o the ivy-clad bolthole. “I a girafe comes up to the

house, walk slowly inside or, i you get stuck, make sure

you have a piece o garden urniture between you both

– girafes can run 30mph and kill a lion with one kick.”

Right, then.


It was this beautiul animal’s dwindling status on the

endangered species list that prompted Girafe Manor’s

owners – Betty and Jock Leslie-Melville – to use it as a

breeding ground on which to rear and reintroduce the




Rothschild to the wild – an efort that began in the 1970s

and continues today using unds rom this private home-

turned boutique hotel. (And, with a 25% survival rate ocalves, it’s a harder process than you might think.)

It’s with some guilt-ree comort, then, that you can

while away the day at this grand 1930s property knowing

you’re contributing to the greater (girafe) good. So

novel is the experience that you may be tempted, as I

was, not to leave its walls, rather, sit on the grass deck

with a tome rom the manor’s library, drink in hand and

girafes roaming beore you (though don’t expect to get

any actual reading done). Perecting the art o ‘just being’couldn’t be easier.

When the next morning rolled in I went to the window,

held my breath, and drew back the curtains o my

Scottish hunting lodge-style suite (green/red abrics,

mammoth bed, antique urniture) in the hope o meeting

Opening page: Zebra

and Waterbuck graze.

This page, clockwise

from top; Rhino and her

calf; Samburu people;

Dik-dik; Grey Crowned

Crane. Opposite page;

African elephants on

Samburu ground.


soaring thatched roos, and silenced by the view rom its

foor-to-ceiling glass windows, where dainty zebra and

antelope played. With a log re in the bedroom (at an

elevation o over 6,000 eet, nights are pleasantly chilly);

h h ( l h t b th ll

those heavy-lashed eyes again – I did. It never tires. The

only thing that could drag me away was the lure o the

next dot on my map; Laikipia, to a saari lodge with its

own conservational tale. To reach it, I orwent a more

i bl 30 i t h t fi ht h d i




huge open shower (surely enough room to bathe a small

herd?) and gloriously-deep tub, all next to wraparound

windows, the best point rom which to spy the wildlietakes some thought.

It’s a design that’s mimicked on a larger scale back

at Solio’s beautiully cosy main lodge (the setting o

daily, candle-lit meals o truly delicious, home-cooked

are) where a couple o other guests invited me to

make my rst steps in to the wild or a bush brunch. We

delved in to endless greenery to nd a table – manned

by waiters – awaiting our arrival, set up with a east-

worthy spread o ruity salads, pesto pasta, meats andKenyan cheese. It’s here that I met Mark, a seemingly

quintessential Englishman who is, in act, a game guide

and ourth-generation Kenyan. “O course there was a

time the original owner’s wie wouldn’t let a soul on the

land,” he told me, “it was just or her and her riends

only.” The land (all 17,500 acres o it) was sold in 1965 to

a Texan, Courtland Paret, who made his ortune rom

chewing gum and had a penchant or hunting – shooting

everything on the land, including its last rhino. HisFrench wie, however, had a passion or conservation

and persuaded him to put all o the swamp areas aside

as a sanctuary. “From there, it became the rst private

sanctuary in the country; most likely in the world,”

recounted Mark.

Ater being granted permission to look ater game,

Paret caught rhino, as did another prominent hunting

amily, the Carr-Hartleys, who captured (by lasso, no less)

80 white rhino rom South Arica and brought them toSolio. “They were let undisturbed and bred incredibly

amicable 30-minute charter fight or a ve-hour drive

and glimpse o the ‘real Kenya’. My driver, Kenyan-born

Michael, narrated the simple scenes we passed; localpeople tending to their modest shack-like homes; tin

shops aectionately named in candy coloured paints;

sprawling coee arms and, every now and then, a fash

o brilliant purple and coral blossoms parading through a

mass o green trees.

When I woke up rom a snooze, we were on o-road

territory, somewhere between Mount Kenya and the

rolling peaks o the Aberdares. But, ater asking whether

we were lost (and wondering whether that was a lionrustling in the tall grasses) we emerged at Solio Lodge,

to a smiling sta and a simple, heart-warming greeting:

‘welcome home’. Here, my new abode was a luxurious,

modern cottage (one o just six that dot a slice o the

Solio Game Reserve) and, inside, I was dwared by

‘Today Solio Lodge is all) an uncontained giggle from Blackie indicated we




Today, Solio Lodge is

ofcially the best place in

the continent to spot both

black and white rhino in

their natural habitat’

well,” Mark recalled, “they went on to restock many of the

reserves across Africa.” Today, Solio Lodge is ocially the

best place in the continent to spot both black and white

rhino in their natural habitat – a source of excitement

for my partner, a second-time safari-goer who was yet

to spot the muscular mammal. “Kenya has rhino today, I

believe, because of this particular lodge,” armed Mark.

With the Parfet and Carr-Hartley legacies now in

the hands of sons Ed Parfet and Mikey Carr-Hartley, Ed

consented to Mikey’s grand designs for Solio Lodge little

more than one year ago. And it’s a venue that’s proved

good enough to draw even the most seasoned safari-

goers; like my other lunch companion, ‘Midgie’, a pint-

sized eighty-something whose frame cheats the reality;

she’s a real powerhouse. This is a woman who, before

the 1977 hunting ban, tracked and shot every one of the

Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, water bualo, rhino). Of

course, while the roaming mammals are now safe from

professional trophy hunters, the rhino remains under

threat from poachers who trade its valuable horn on the

black market; a product that can reach one-and-a-half

times the amount of gold, around $60,000 per kilo. “The

future now is a bleak one – the Chinese have moved in in

a big way, and the ivory trade is up 20%,” said a solemn

Mark. “If it continues, it’s feasible they could be wiped

out in months. In the meantime, it’s little places like this

that can draw money in, put rangers in place and not only

secure the future of the rhino, but wildlife in the main.”

It was time for me to see the real thing: and there were

two men who were going to help me do it. Cue Fred at the

wheel of our stellar 4x4, a former teacher and Masai Mara

guide (think of Morgan Freeman’s calming aura and dulcet

tones and you’re on the right track) and our young spotter

‘Blackie’, hailing from one of the country’s 42 tribes and

able to spot a monkey at a thousand paces (how, I’m still

baed). Binoculars at the ready and camel-hued outts

donned, we headed in to the Solio Game Reserve. I was

primed for a long day, but, within half-an-hour we were

surrounded: rhino. Girae. Warthogs. Zebra. Waterbuck.It was like being dropped in to a real-life Disney lm.

Surmising that I couldn’t tell the dierence between

a black and white rhino, (they’re the same colour, after

were in the company of the more aggressive black rhino.

“We have been chased for miles by one before,” smiled

Fred, “that’s an easy way to tell the dierence!” Sturdy,

bulbous, dinosaur-like, it was both amazing and a force

to be reckoned with.

Each drive revealed a new surprise: sleeping lionesses

and her cubs, all-but-concealed in the sand-hued grass;

sleek cheetahs that stalked the grounds by nightfall;

two mighty rhino sparring in a valiant eort to protect

their brood; girae ambling amid rhino like a scene

from Jurassic Park (my travelling companion’s incessant

humming of the theme tune did, admittedly, seem apt);

and lines of comical warthog zipping along the ground,

tails erect like antennae. “They do this by nature, so that

the babies may spot their mothers in the long grass,”

Fred told me. Unfortunately, others were fond followers

of the hairy hogs, too: “To the lions, they are a delicacy,”

he chuckled.

Three days on, my partner and I left what had become

a home-from-home, for the north Kenyan pastures of

Samburu. The 30-minute ight from Solio’s private

airstrip (an irresistible prospect second time around),

was a headturning trip: crossing the Equator, the lush

green plains of Solio morphed in to a tapestry of coral,

orange, gold and rust hues, before we touched down to

hot, dry climes and a vast sand-covered wilderness: a

genuinely soul-stirring sight. My Samburu guide, Andrew,

was the man at the wheel here, shrouded tip-to-toe in

traditional tribal dress; bright blue and red cloths and a

multitude of beads and jewellery to make a girl jealous

(try as I might, he wouldn’t part with them).

Touring rocky roads in an open-sided 4x4 toward

Mount Kenya’s jagged peak and over the banks of the

Ewaso Nyiro River, which runs through the region like a

pulse, gave a glimpse of another world: no barriers, but

raw, natural land interrupted only by wandering locals

and villages where modest huts form circles, children

play barefoot and young boys are tasked with herding

the family’s livelihood; bleating goats. It ’s with mutualcuriosity that I, they, waved and smiled at every passing.

Such drives were laced with Andrew’s tales; a man

who’s managed to unwittingly walk in to the path of

a lioness and her cubs (the soul provocation for attacks

on humans, I learned), be chased by a water bualo

(“it threw our friend up in to a tree”) and come

face-to-face with a leopard protecting its young (“ I have

never seen such fury, I thought ‘that’s it, I’m gone’.”)

Whether such close encounters are a quality you wantin a guide, I couldn’t decide. Nonetheless, he was a man

of experience and, in response to my longing to see an

elephant, trumped all my expectations.




54 Januar y 2012Kanoo World Traveller


Previous page, top to

bottom: Solio Lodge;

A tented suite and

plunge pool at Sasaab.

Opposite page: A

R th hild i f t




The rst came in Dumbo-like orm o a young pup,

ambling on big, fat eet through thickets o leaves, with

a toddler-like sway. Within minutes, not one, but ve,

10, 20 or more o every size emerged on the tail o the

next, beore we were driving as part o the herd. It was

an experience uelled by equal measures o jaw-dropping

wonder and adrenalin. When the car engine stopped,

I turned to see why: a bull, the herd’s protector, sizing up

our vehicle. Instinctively, we ell utterly quiet. It moved,slowly, curiously to the side o the car, where I was sat,

at exact eye-level with its deeply-lined, grey ace.

Hands-over-mouth, heart-beating hard, I realised just

a ew steps orward would bring his huge, ivory tusks or

prying, muscular trunk through the car’s open side. Ater

a ew minutes (I held my breath or each), he moved on,

pausing to scratch an itch – which entailed straddling an

entire tree and almost fooring it in the process. Andrew

breathed a heavy sigh o relie – always a good sign. “I he

had taken exception to us, he would have just fipped the

car,” he said. Right, then. Still, it was another memorable

way to start a day.

Such exhilaration was challenged only by our arrival

to the stunning Sasaab; another lodge touched by the

talents o its owner, Mikey Carr-Hartley. This place has

real wow actor. Its main, Moroccan-style lodge unravels

beneath pillars, etched with mother-o-pearl, and

its elevation aords priceless vistas o the Samburu plains

and amous river (a sight I later drank-in rom the lodge’s

turquoise innity pool). My ‘room’, meanwhile, brought a

new meaning to ‘posh camping’: immersed in the rugged

landscape, I climbed up a rocky pathway to set oot on its

white stone foor, open walls all around, and a our-poster

bed shrouded by nets. But it was the private plunge pool

that provoked a delighted gasp – the perect place to

seek relie rom the sun, and witness elephants crossing

the river while you’re at it.

Like those lodges that had gone beore it, Sasaab

marries its rened luxury with a more responsible

agenda: aiding the conservation o the Grevy zebra

(an animal that’s orgone the most drastic drop o any

Arican mammal) and vulnerable lions, as well as the

region’s indigenous people through community projects

unded by guests. Schools benet rom stays with new

desks, art supplies, and learning materials; women

are given a livelihood making bracelets and beaded

bottle covers or the git shop; and work with Westgate

Community Conservancy health care projects brings

vital preventative programmes to ruitition. In act, youcan visit a local school – as I did, sat perched on a bench

at the back o a maths class, amid beautiul, wide-eyed

children.

It’s a contrast to my ormer stays in Nairobi and

Laikipia, where I elt ar rom a real, local way o lie, and a

contrast that continued in the region’s wildlie. “Samburu

land has its own special Big Five,” Andrew told me. “Beisa

oryx, Reticulated girae, Grevy’s zebra, Gerenuk and

Somali ostrich.” Fresh nds that injected new anticipation

in to our next game drives where, in addition, I marvelled

at the almost mythical-looking Dik-diks – tiny deer-like

creatures, with stubs or horns, huge black eyes and the

twitching nose o an anteater. “They pair or lie, so you

will always see them in twos,” Andrew told me, “but when

one dies, the other will pass rom stress; a broken heart.”

It’s such creatures, which look plucked rom airytales

and birds – some in electric blue hues, others with yellow,

eather-duster like tuts and ducks with red-striped aces

– that make saaris here so unique.

Parking up in yet another spectacular setting – by the

river’s edge, with a breakast t or a king and, across

the water, the sight o dozens o monkeys, babies and

all, scampering along in tribe-like style – proved yet

another lump-in-the-throat moment. It’s this raw, natural

landscape that no doubt rst drew the British to colonise

Kenya; that enticed people to take home trophies o its

astounding lie; that prompts generations to ght or its

species; and what makes these evolving lodges an

once-in-a-lietime experience. Kenya, we agreed,

sat there in the bush, gets under your skin. I m a g e s : R o b i n

M o o r e / T h e S a f a r i C o l l e c t i o n

O p e n i n g i m a g e

o n l y : C o r b i s / A r a b i a n E y e

‘what started as a large, thickly-lashed, unblinking eye in my peripheral,

became a long, elegant neck prying through a tall window next to me...’

Rothschild girafe at

Girafe Manor.

The



ForgoTTeNCiTyValencia has sat in the shadow of Barcelona

and Madrid for far too long. That’s why it

has got such an authentic atmosphere


The ForgoTTen ciTy | Valencia

Opening page: City Hall

Square. This page: Plaza

de la Virgen.



January2012Kanoo World Traveller57

WhyisitthatValencianeverentersourthoughts

whenwethinkofSpain?Barcelona,yes.Madrid,

certainly,butValencia?Inmorethantwo

decadesofracingaroundthemajorcitiesof

EuropeSpain’sthirdcityhasbarelyregistered

onmyradar.MyfriendStephenhasbeenlivingherefornearlythree

yearsandheisequallypuzzled.“Valenciahasaverylowproleand

Idon’tunderstandwhy,”hesays.“It’sbeenallaboutthebuzzof

Barcelona,Madridandothercities.”Stephenandhispartner,Claire,

chosetomovetothecityonthebasisofqualityoflifefortheir

youngfamily.“Obviously,numberoneisthemicro-climate.Having

thebeach,thesea,300daysofsun–youcan’thelpbutgoaround

withasmileonyourface.”

Thebeachesarearevelation.ThebroadgoldenswathesofLas

ArenasandLaMalvarossastretchfor3kmupfromtheport,seemingly

tothehorizon.TheyhavethesweepandgenerosityofMiamiBeach.

Itishardtoimaginethembecomingover-crowded.Ican’tthinkofa

citybeachinEuropethatcompares;upthecoast,Barcelona’smuch

celebratedPortOlimpicseafrontiscertainlypopularbutislargely

articial.Valencia’sbeachesarelessshowy,lessdevelopedandseem

amoreorganicpartofthecity.

Thestringofcafesandpaellarestaurantsthatfringethebeachare

busywithfamilies,gettingtheirngersstainedwithsaronasthey

pickthoughmariscosandchickenbones.Anaccordionistwandersby,

scatteringlittlemelodies.Amidtsofgiggles,agroupofcomfortably

upholsteredwomeneggeachotherontodanceinformationonthe

pavedpromenade.

Valenciahasbeenslowtograspthetransformativeeectthat

internationalsportingeventscanhave.The1992BarcelonaOlympics

showedtheway,butitwasanother15yearsbeforeValenciacame

lookingforthesportinglimelight.ThecityhostedtheAmerica’sCup

in2007andhasbeenhometoFormulaOne’sEuropeanGrandPrix

since2008.Thoughbotheventshavecontributedtoraisingprole

andcapacity,thepastfouryearshavealsocoincidedwithageneral

downturnintourismtoSpain.Valenciastillawaitsthegoldrush.

However,allthatsimplymeansoneofthegreatcitiesofEuropeis

stillinastonishinglypristinecondition.ThemostcommonriIpickup

fromvisitors,localsandforeignexpatsalikeisthatValenciaremains

essentiallySpanish.TheSpanishwaycan,ofcourse,bebeguiling,but

Ilearnsoonenoughitcanalsobebull-headed.

LaLonjadelaSeda(theSilkExchange),aUnescoWorldHeritage

Site,isastunningexampleoflateGothicexuberance–theSalade

‘The beaches are a

revelation. The broad

golden swathes of

Las Arenas and La



Las Arenas and La

Malvarossa stretchseemingly to the horizon’

58 January 2012Kanoo World Traveller





Opposite page, clockwise

from top left: Plaza del

Ayuntamiento; Valencian

prawns; Plaza de Toros;

Team Headquarters

at Port America’s Cup.

F ll i P l d




Contratacion, with its soaring candy-twist pillars, is as imposing as the

interior of any medieval cathedral. La Lonja is on every visitor’s must-

do list. I enter at 1.45pm and, after a few minutes in the grand Sala,

I try to make my way to the rest of the building. A hatchet-faced

ocial blocks my access. It’s the witching hour – 2pm – siesta.

She will not be moved. No pasaran. “It’s bureaucracy; it’s arrogance;

it’s typically Spanish,” says Stephen with feeling. “There’s still the‘I can’t do this – it’s siesta time. Come back at ve’.”

As it happens, I can’t come back at ve and have to be content

with admiring the exterior – which has its consolations. The medieval

stone masons were determined to prick the grandiosity of the

architecture with a scatological sense of humour, channeled through

the playful gargoyles.

Cheerful irreverence is also on display in the Calle del Trench

nearby. A shop called The Dog’s Cojones is vending T-shirts two

doors from a general store called Lovely Family. Across the road ashop front is occupied by multiple stockinged mannequin legs, while

another oers devotional plaster cherubs and, er, water lters – it is

retail anarchy.

Lunch is al fresco at Ocho y Medio in Plaza Lope de Vega – it

specialises in superior paellas and surreal menus. One of the dishes

is rendered in English as ‘Paella with Stroke’. I play safe and opt

for ‘Smooth Rice with Chick and Black True’, which turns up as a

risotto with baby pigeon. There is so much to love in these Valencian

improvisations and raw edges that I have forgotten my frustration.Munching on baby pigeon (which tastes surprisingly livery) my

reveries are interrupted by a large tour group from a cruise liner. The

guide barks a commentary at them through a loud hailer completely

leaching the little plaza of its sleepy charm. As they are marshalled

out of the square, the group seems like a premonition.

Valencia suered a great ood in 1957, when the River Turia caused

havoc in the city. The authorities responded by re-routing the water

course out of town. The dead river bed was nally reinvented in 1980

as a green ribbon running for 9km through the city. Locals still refer

to it as the ‘River’ – and in a sense it still ows, with formal gardensmorphing into forested glades, playing elds, children’s adventure

playgrounds and picnic venues as it progresses through the city.

The Turia Gardens are bookended by two of Valencia’s most

striking attractions. At the eastern end is the City of Arts and Sciences,

the sprawling cultural complex designed by the city’s most famous

son, the architect Santiago Calatrava. The buildings demand visual

metaphors – a swan, an armadillo, a stegosaur, a giant eye, a whale

ribcage, a grove of palms and a harp. It is a amboyant theme

park of civic space containing an opera house, a science museum,a planetarium and Europe’s largest aquarium. It is a great adventure

in itself and requires another weekend to see it properly.

At the other end of the Turia is the Bioparc; it is nominally a zoo,

but that’s like saying an F1 Grand Prix is just a car race. It occupies

100,000sq m and brings Africa to the heart of the urban sprawl. Not

just African animals but entire ecosystems. Species are grouped

together as you might nd them on the great plains – zebras, impalas,

blesbok, marabous, crowned cranes and giraes all roam the one

hectare savannah enclosure together.Some vistas are engineered to make it appear as though predators

are sharing the same spaces as their prey. Lions prowl within yards

of impalas with no discernible fences or bars. To avoid tears before

‘The string o caes and paella restaurants that ringe the beach

are busy with amilies, getting their ngers stained with safron

as they pick though mariscos’

Following page: Palau de

las Arts Reina Soa in the

City of Arts and Sciences.






‘The buildings demand

visual metaphors –

a swan, an armadillo,

a stegosaur, a giant eye,




I m a g e s : C o r b i s / A r a b i a n E y e ; P h o t o l i b r a r y ; S h u t t e r s t o c k

T e x t : S a n k h a G u h a / T h e I n d e p e n d e n t / T h e I n t e r v i e w P e o p l e

bedtime animals are kept in their enclosures through

cleverly concealed ditches and ‘natural’ barriers such as

rock walls and water obstacles.

It may be the Bioparc’s cleverest illusion that the

animals seem extraordinarily content. A baby warthog

leaps and jinks with joy beore digging holes under a

boulder; chimps are totally engrossed in grooming each

other; elephants roll magisterially across a colossal

enclosure eaturing en-suite waterall and a ‘orest’ oconcrete baobab trees; ringtailed lemurs are ascinated

by the visitors wandering through their Madagascar – so

much so it’s hard to distinguish who is watching whom.

Feeding time is one o the undoubted highlights

o lie in the city. It is difcult to eat badly and only a

brave oreign che would consider setting up shop here.

German incomer Bernd Knoller opened his rst restaurant

in the city nearly two decades ago. Three years ago, his

Ri Restaurant received the recognition o a Michelinstar. “I cook Valencian ood,” he insists, “but I cook my

Valencian ood.”

The rst course at dinner sets the bar high; chilled

oyster served with a warm oyster mayonnaise topped

with a granita o seaweed. I suspect it’s designed to

silence sceptics in one mouthul. Other dishes that lean

on Valencian traditions include a salad o chipirones

(small squid), aïoli, morel mushrooms and watercress

and a course that is billed only as ‘Dirty Rice’. The lastis a delicate risotto avoured with sh stock and locally

sourced olive oil (“to sweeten it”) and dusted with

desiccated squid ink.

The shy ingredients taste as i they were swimming

around just hours ago. And indeed they were. “I buy

at the sh auction down in the port,” says Bernd with

inectious enthusiasm. “It’s late in the aternoon every

day. It’s very mad – like a school class with very upset

kids. I like it very much.”I like it too. And amid the clatter o lives being lived

well – and the sunshine, squid and siestas – there will be

an incipient smile on most aces.

a whale ribcage, a groveof palms and a harp’



64 Kanoo World Traveller May 2011

city slickers

Prices are per person (starting from), sharing a twin room and in US Dollars.

Prices are subject to availability and based on a minimum number of nights stay as specied above.

Price includes accommodation for specied nights with meals and return airport transfers (where mentioned).

Package oers include a detailed itinerary with sightseeing tours.

These rates are applicable during January 01 till March 31, 2012.

More details and other information are available upon request.Surcharge may apply for any arrival/departure airport transfers between 2000-0600hrs.

All prices are subject to change at any time without prior notice, Kanoo Holidays terms and conditions apply to all bookings.

Explore the bright lights and sights of one of these thriving metropolis’

DESTINATIONS USD REMARKS

BAHrAin (3 nigHTS & 4 DAS) 390 BreAKfAST

DUBAi (3 nigHTS & 4 DAS) 260 BreAKfAST & TrAnSferS

MAlDiveS (4 nigHTS & 5 DAS) 900 PAcKAge

SingAPore (4 nigHTS & 5 DAS) 530 PAcKAge

MAlASiA – KUAlA lUMPUr

(4 nigHTS & 5 DAS) 345 PAcKAge

inDiA – golDern TriAngle

(6 nigHTS & 7 DAS)600 PAcKAge

Sri lAnKA (4 nigHTS & 5 DAS) 480 PAcKAge

greece – ATHenS


TUrKe – iSTAnBUl


THAilAnD – BAngKoK(4 nigHTS & 5 DAS)

425 PAcKAge

ConCieRGemozambique | ToKyo | sT peTeRsbuRG | maldives



January 2012 K Wr Trr 65

How do I reach the island?

By private charter from Dar-es-Salaam in Tanzania or Pemba in

Mozambique: you’ll cruise overland, over the Rofuma River on the Tanzania/

Mozambique borders, before going to Mocimboa de Praia to clear customsand then taking a stunning 10 minute ight towards Vamizi, ying low over

the archipelago where you’ll see pods of dolphins, turtles and ying sh.

What will I nd when I touch down?

Fourteen individual, private sea-facing villas, strung along one of the world’s

nest beaches. Their interiors are inuenced by local culture and design, in

the form of locally-sourced textiles and fabrics and bespoke furniture made

on the island, like our Swahili-style daybeds and sun loungers.

How would you suggest I spend my days here?

Vamizi is not just a beach; there’s truly something for everyone. You can

choose from a range of activities, from world-class diving and shing to

snorkelling, sailing and kayaking or dhow sailing and beach walks. You can

even get involved in conservation programmes, be it whale watching or

releasing turtles into the wild. But, if all that sounds too strenuous, relax ona sunbed with a good book and listen to the chatter of Samango monkeys.

Is there anything I can do away from the island?

Overnight trips to Ibo Island are possible (though guests rarely want to

leave here); a historic place that’s home to pristine beaches and where you

can take a cultural tour of the isle.

Where are the best spots to savour the fruits of the region?

Our main restaurant serves surf-fresh seafood daily. Dining can be a candle-lit dinner on the beach, picnics or in-villa dining, with classics like barbecued

Mozambican prawns and yellow n tuna sashimi. vamizi.com

mel sTaley, vamizi island, mozambique

the 30 second concierge

visit

DelveintoJapan’scapital,saysJadeBremner,andexperiencealandscape

ToKyo



66January2012Kan Wrld Traveller

Amidanultra-modernskyline,centuries

ofhistoryandover30millionJapanese

natives,you’relikelytowitnessbusinessmen

gobblingsushiforbreakfast;‘Cosplayers’

reenactingbattlesinthecity’sparks;

slot-machinejunkieswastingdaysonend

inPachinkoparlours(akaarcades);and

wannabestarletsquiteliterallysingingtheir

heartsoutinan‘emptyorchestra’(karaoke

booths–there’sstacksofthem).InTokyo

theadventureneverends,andthosewho

darecantryanythingfromanightspentin

acapsulehotel,toeatingaviper.Takeatrip

tothisendlesslyfascinatingcityandseeforyourselfhowdeeptherabbitholegoes...

ofneonlights,rawfoodandcuriousculture…

Tokyo | Japan

MUST-DOS

Cos-Cha: Back to School

(1) (cos-cha.com) is a maid’s

cafe – a bizarre trend that sees

women dressed in black and

white pinafores serving lunch. In

witnessed the commotion, make

like a local and indulge in some

just-cut sushi for breakfast.

Tokyo Tower (3) (tokyotower.

co.jp) is the place to behold

the sights and sounds of this

victory. Book tickets for a live

ght before your trip so you can

soak up an electric atmosphere

at the 13,000-capacity stadium.

Akihabara (5) is known for

being the ‘nerd headquarters’

good bet for those on holiday, as

it oers a choice of over 10,000

international musical numbers

and all-night drinks (til closing

time, anyway) for $42.

WHERE T STA




I m a g e s : C o r b

i s / A r a b i a n E y e ; S h u t t e r s t o c k ; J a p a n T o u r i s m

TOKYO’S... TOp SIGHTS

Imperial Palace in Chiyoda which, after being destroyed during WWII,

has been rebuilt and still used as an imperial residence today.

Ginza oers endless high-end shopping opportunities for those after a

luxury x. Streets here are spotless and teaming with trendy shoppers

who you can gawk at for style inspiration.

Chinzanso Garden is the place to trade the bustling city for a garden

lled with camellia owers and traditional cherry blossom trees: go from

February to March to see them in full bloom.

Meiji Jingu is where people go to appreciate nature, harmony and

Japanese virtues: locals believe it contains the souls of Emperor Meiji

and Empress Shoke.

Opposite page,

clockwise from top:

Waitresses from the

city’s popular maid

cafes; Signature sushi;

Sumo-wrestlers;

Chuo-dori, Tokyo’s

most fashionable

shopping street;

Tokyo skyscrapers.

fact, maid’s cafes have become

something of an institution in the

city; there are now over 210 to

choose from, and queues for a

table can last up to two hours.

Tsukiji Fish Market (2)

(tsukiji-market.or.jp/) oers a

distinctly shy experience, best

savoured at the crack of dawn.

Here local traders get stuck intoa noisy auction and lob around

baskets of eels, abalone, jellysh,

tilapia, tobiko and other freshly-

caught delicacies. After you’ve

mesmerising city. Choose

between the Main Observatory

(150 metres high), or the Special

Observatory (250 metres

high), for a sensory overload of

glistening skyscrapers as far as

the eye can see.

Ryōgoku Kokugikan (4) (sumo.

or.jp/kokugikan) is Sumida’s chief

sumo-wrestling stadium. Visit itson-site museum to learn about

one of Japan’s oldest sports and

view photographs of champion,

chubby athletes grappling for

of Tokyo. In this area you’ll nd

stacks of computer games,

Anime and Manga products,

Pokémon cards, retro video

games, gurines and dozens of

collectibles. In fact, it ’s a shrine

to cult memorabilia and makes

a great place to pick up unique,

Japanese-inspired gifts.

Fiesta International Karaoke(6) (esta-roppongi.com) is in

the Roppongi district; a haven

for sing-along joints. Fiesta

International is a particularly

WHERE T STA

Grand Hyatt Tokyo (7) (tokyo.

grand.hyatt.com) sets up

home in what is a prime spot

for discovering the entire city

– though its plush rooms may

make you want to stay put a

while longer. Expect modern

decor throughout, accompanied

by ve-star service, internationalrestaurants and views across the

sparkling skyline.

Capsule Hotel (8) (capsuleinn.

com) oers an alternative

sleeping arrangement, and has to

be tried at least once while you’re

in Japan. Here you’ll sleep in one

of a dozen capsules, which are

stacked on top of one another ina wall. Inside the small tube of a

room there’s space for your own

TV, radio and light controllers.

WHERE T EAT

oshimura Soba (9) (+81 422

43 1717) is a country-style noodle

shop in Kichijoji that makes

saliva-inducing buckwheatnoodles you’ll not forget. Order

them with all the trimmings in a

bento box (including tempura

and miso soup), dip them in a

variety of accompaniments (such

as soy, wasabi, ginger and chilli),

then wash them down with one

of a superb selection of rice-

based drinks.Daiwa Sushi (10) (+81 335 47

6807) is a tiny room where you

can eat like a local: squash in

like sardines at its sushi bar and

chow down on fresh pieces of

tender sashimi, chopped in front

of you and delicately passed

over via the chef’s chopsticks.

But, be warned; reservations arenot possible here and queues

can have you waiting an hour – a

testament to the food on oer.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

TOKYO

CHIYODA

CHUOSHIBUYA

TAITOBUNKYO

visit

Head to Russia’s capital o culture or an alluring mix o baroque and

l i l t l hit t il l d 200

ST PETERSBURG



68 Januar y 2012Kanoo World Traveller

MUST-DOS

The State Hermitage

Museum/ Winter Palace (1)

(hermitagemuseum.org) is

a great place to begin your

cultural voyage; it’s flled with

paintings, graphic works,

sculptures and works o applied

art, archaeological fnds and

numismatic material. Yusupov

Palace (2) (yusupov-palace.ru)

is a long, oh-so-grand yellow

building that runs along the

side o the Moika River. Hire a

walkman and listen to a tour tape

on how, in 1916, a group o the

city’s noble elite conspired to

kill Grigori Rasputin, leading to

the all o the Romanov dynasty.

Elsewhere, you’ll spy gorgeous,

classical-style rooms chock ull

o rich, antique urniture. Nevsky

neoclassical-style architecture, miles o canals and over 200 museums…

It’s hard to believe St Petersburg was

originally a swamp owned by the Swedish:

seized by the Russian leader ‘Peter the Great’

in 1703, he turned it into what locals now call

‘the window to the western world’ – which

would explain the monuments worshiping

him across town. Art lovers and historians will

also revel in the knowledge that this was the

very place where Tchaikovsky, Stravinsky andShostakovich composed their masterpieces,

and where Russian revolutionists Lenin and

Trotsky wrote history. Post-revolution, the city

has returned to its ormer state o grandeur,

with locals having swapped soviet cabbage

soup or rich strogano and lavish European-

inspired are. Visit the chilly Russian city today

and marry the above with trips to chic caes,

decadent palaces and world-class galleries...

Prospekt (3) is the street where

well-heeled locals shop or

designer clothes – grab a bite in

one o its many ood emporiums

and waste literally hours in its

department stores. Seek out the

black market caviar-sellers here,

too, (Russians are big on the

esteemed fsh eggs), and catch

sight o historic architecture or

picture opportunities aplenty.

The Mariinsky (4) (mariinsky.

ru/en) is the place to see live

classical music, operas and

Russia’s signature ballet. Sit back

on one o its ancy, blue velvet

chairs and enjoy a show amid

crystal, gold trimmings, gilt-

moulded decorations and white

stone sculptures. Alexander

Garden (5) is in the very centre

o St Petersburg and dates back

Opposite page:

The Winter Palace.

This page, from left

to right: Shopper

on Nevsky Prospekt

Street; Lounge in

Hotel Astoria; Peter

the Great Monument;




to 1872. Wander inside and you’ll

nd some impressive statues of

Russian cultural gures – look

out for that of former Russian

General Nikolai Przhevalsky,

which people say bears a striking

resemblance to Stalin and where

devoted communists still place

owers at its base. Davranov

(6) (davranovtravel.ru/en) is

where you can book a canal boat

tour round the city. Most pass

the Moika River and go on to

Neva River, so passengers can

view the Peter and Paul Fortress

and the Cruiser Aurora. The

Aurora ship is now a museum, so

you can step aboard the vessel

that once battled in the Russo-

Japanese War.

WHERE TO EAT

Pyecanya cafe (7)

(Naberezhnaya Kanala

Griboedova) is an atmospheric

joint with a view of the canal

from the Russian Museum. Here

you can ll up on a traditional

war-time diet of brioche-style

rolls and red pickled cabbage –

though it sounds unexciting, it’s

seriously tasty (and cheap, too).

The Idiot Cafe (8)

(Naberezhnaya Reki Moiki 82)

is a cult favourite among artsy

types and expats. Games and a

shelf full of English books can

be found inside, plus four rooms

adorned with antiques and

trinkets where you can tuck into

Russian vegetarian fare.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Astoria (9)

(thehotelastoria.com) is as plush

as it gets in St Petersburg. Do

as the Russian billionaires do

and rest up in one of its tasteful

suites, complete with classical

trimmings and huge marble

bathrooms. At night, dine on

traditional haute cuisine at the

hotel’s Davido Restaurant.

Corinthia Hotel Saint

Petersburg (10) (corinthia.com)

is the place to splash out: its to-

die-for Presidential Suite spans

120 square metres, is adorned

in royal red and cream hues and

includes two bedrooms and a

balcony that opens out on to

Nevsky Prospect.

SAINT PETERSBURG

SUMMER GARDEN

GULF OFFINLAND

1

2

3

4

6

7

8

5

9 10

I m a g e s : S h u t t e r

s t o c k ,

H o t e l A s t o r i a

ST PETERSBURG’S...

MONUMENTS

The Alexander Column

can be found in Palace

Square; an impressive

47.5 metres tall and made

of one solid slab of red

granite, it was built to

honour Russia’s victory

against France.

The Bronze Horseman

on Senatskaia Ploschad

square resembles

a Roman hero on

horseback and was built

on order of Catherine

the Great as a tribute to

her predecessor, Peter

the Great.

The Moscow Triumphal

Arch forms a grand

structure and a gateway

into the Imperial capital,

and it marks the Russian

victory in the Russo-

Turkish war of 1828.

Impressive stu.

The Tsar Carpenter

is a detailed green

monument, built to tell

the story of the young

Peter the Great as a boy.

Here, he builds a ship

with an axe; a skill he

learnt in Holland to later

teach the Russian navy.

the Great Monument;Gold-plated turret

of the Big Palace.



Bhi

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Wi A BREAK AT THE NEW RADISSON ROYAL HOTEL, DUBAI

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Kanoo TravelKanoo Airline CenterAl Khobar

887 0128+966 3 849 1823/+966 3

849 1824

U..E

KT FujeirahSea PortFujeirah+971 9 228 [email protected]+971 9 228 2295

KT Sharjah Rolla StreetSharjah+971 6 561 8655

[email protected]+971 6 561 6058

KT Corporate Corporate OfceDubai+971 4 392 [email protected]

KT Dubai Internet CityDubai Internet Cityno.12 (Oracle Bldg)Dubai+971 4 390 [email protected]

+971 4 390 1990 - 994

KTKarama Holidays

Sheikh Khalia Bin ZayedDubai

+971 4 334 [email protected]+971 4 334 1444

KT Jebel AliLOB 16 Ground oorJebel Ali Free ZoneDubai+971 4 881 [email protected]+971 4 881 5050/8816350

KT Bur DubaiKhalid Bin Walid Street

Bur DubaiDubai+971 4 393 [email protected]+971 4 507 2467

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UK

UK Kanoo Travel34 Union Street,Birmingham,B2 4SR Birmingham+44 1 21 644 5555

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LondonSW1Y 4EX+44 20 7484 9688

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M1 1PX+44 161 833 7301

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Southampton,SO14 7FG+44 23 807 16805

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g g ) gRadisson Royal Hotel, Dubai’s highlights are its ICHO

restaurant, a slick shrine to Japanese cuisine (we love

its Teppanyaki chefs, who’ll whisk up ne fare before

your eyes); Spa Zen, for those who really want to

relax (try one of its couple’s treatment packages);

and, for the socialities among you, a rooftop lounge

where you can perch cool beverages atop glow-in-

the-dark tables and gaze across its innity pool.

ThE PiZE

The Radisson Royal Hotel, Dubai is oering readers

the chance to win a two-night stay for two,

including breakfast. To enter, just email the correct

answer to the following question to easywin@

hotmediapublishing.com before January 31, 2012.

Q. What is the name o Radisson Royal Hotel,

Dubai’s luxurious spa?

a) Spa Ten

b) Royal Spa

c) Spa Zen

TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Prize is non-transerable and must be taken byJuly 31, 2012. Dates subject to availability and exclude public holidays.


SuiTe dreamSTold u So, maldiveS



72 January 2012 Kn W T

Is there a more high-end suite to curl up in than this; The Owner’s Suite of a 145-foot mega yacht, Told u So? One of ve suites on board, no

less, we’ve placed dibs on this immaculate beauty, not just for its Missoni-striped furnishings, but for its 270-degree sea views, his and her’s

bathrooms, en-suite screening room, private sun terrace and a six-person Jacuzzi. Of course, spending the night here comes at a price –

$400,000 per week, to be precise. Stomp up the cash and you’ll set sail on the designer super-boat, which docks in the crystal clear waters

of the Maldives from this month to April, before setting sail again and resting in east Mediterranean shores for the summer. But this isn’t the

only place to snooze; its deck is something else – a sprawling space of lilac-hued daybeds, plump with Missoni cushions, where you can live

the high life supping icy beverages and taking a cat nap beneath the sun or stars. Priceless. molori.com

CRISTALLO HOTEL SPA & GOLF

THERE IS NO HIGHER PLACE.



There is a magical place below one of the most majestic peaks of the Dolomites mountains, where one canexperience the best of every season. This is the Cristallo Hotel Spa & Golf, the only 5 star luxury hotel in theDolomites. Here you will discover suites of unforgettable charm, the most exclusive and luxurious comfort, andthe delicate touch of Transvital wellness. And after an intense day of skiing or a gratifying day of shopping,you can relax and let yourself be pampered by the impeccable Cristallo service offered in the various hotelrestaurants and in the prestigious Club House of the Cortina Golf Club. Always in surroundings of unrivallednatural beauty. This is what a Cristallo Hotel holiday is about. There is nothing better. Naturally, it is in Cortina.

Via Rinaldo Menardi 42 - 32043 Cortina d’Ampezzo (BL)Tel. +39.0436.881111 - Fax +39.0436.870110 - [email protected]

kanoo world traveller 01 2012

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