kanto no. 1

CANVAS Anna Lacson draws in the dark with Night Drawings / Illustrator Claudine Delfin just wants to have fun COMPASS Sibyl Layag and her trip to the tropical paradise of El Nido / Aisne Trinidad embarks on an unexpected adventure in Cambodia INK Vida Cruz on writing and an excerpt from short story ‘First Play for and by Tikbalang Triggers Uproar on Opening Night’ / Patrick Kasingsing’s ‘Arabian Nights’ / The Review: Eleanor Catton’s The Luminaries, Donna Tartt’s The Goldfinch, and Steve Berry’s The Lincoln Myth

J O U R N A L • I2 0 1 5 • N O . 1

D I S C O V E R I E S

kantoC R E A T I V E C O R N E R S

S P A C E SJohan Tägtström on architectural

photography and his quest for the perfect image

Patrick Kasingsing walks the high halls of art at the National

Museum of the Philippines

Joy Merryl Ngo documents the Spanish religious legacy in the

form of heritage churches

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All rights reserved. No part of this journal may be reproduced in any manner without permission from the featured artists or Kanto. Kanto is released four times a year, every four months. This zeen is FREE and not for sale

[cánto] A Filipino noun for corner, cornerstone, angle.

kanto

C O V E R P H O T O G R A P H Y

J O H A N T Ä G T S T R Ö M

@ J O H F O T

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Welcome to the inaugural journal of Kanto, a blog in the form of a collaborative online journal, dedicated to the creative pursuits and adventures of talented artists in the fields of architecture, art, literature and travel.

As a personal blog, the journal highlights my personal interests. Most of it is dedicated to architectural photography and art, two artistic fields that have always been a huge passion of mine. As an avid reader and amateur writer, literature has always been a source of relaxation and of much-needed inspiration. And though I’m not exactly a frequent flyer, I’ve always wanted to travel. I relish reading about the travel experiences of friends in far-flung places, of their experience of new cultures, of their exciting new discoveries.

As a collaborative project, Kanto serves as a platform to showcase the work of talented individuals sharing like-minded passions, a journal

that celebrates creativity and the pursuit of new adventures. This effort simply won’t happen without my awesome collaborators! (Thanks again for your patience and apologies for my incessant reminders!). Hopefully, what started out as a random idea on a boring day can turn out to be something awesome, and I’d like you, my readers to be a big part of it. Let’s collaborate! Feel free to share your photogaphy, design work and travel experiences via email ([email protected]). I apologize in advance for the minor hiccups you might spot within this journal’s pages. Let’s just attribute it to birthing pains :P

This issue is dedicated to new discoveries of any form. Join us as we visit museums and heritage churches, bask in beaches and explore temples, write of new things and unexpected beginnings. Life is a journey of discovery after all. Enough of my blabbing and hope you enjoy the issue! :)

Patrick@ P A T R I C K _ K A S I N G S I N G

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S P A C E ST H E H I G H H A L L S O F A R TA day within the storied walls of the National Museum of the Philippines

T H E P E R F E C T A N G L ESwedish engineer Johan Tägtström and his love for architectural photography

FA I T H I N S T O N EThe Spanish religious legacy in three heritage churches

C A N V A SN I G H T D R AW I N G SArchitectural drawings in the dark by artist Anna Lacson

S E R I O U S P L AYThe whimsical art of illustrator Claudine Delfin

I N KP R O F I L E : V I DA C R U ZA storyteller with an eye for the extraordinary

F I R S T P L AY F O R A N D b Y T I k b A L A N G T R I G G E R S U P R OA R O N O P E N I N G N I G H TA short story excerpt by Vida Cruz

A R A b I A N N I G H T SA short story by Patrick Kasingsing

T H E R E V I E Wb O O k SThe Goldfinch by Donna TarttThe Luminaries by Eleanor CattonThe Lincoln Myth by Steve Berry

C O M P A S SS P I R I T O F C A M b O D I AAisne Trinidad and her memorable backpacking experience in Cambodia

T H E PA R A D O X O F PA R A D I S EEmbracing Nature in its raw, beautiful glory in El Nido by Sibyl Layag

L O S T & F O U N DStuff you lost and found during your travels by Emarrah Sarreal

P A R T I N G S H O TA visual endnote by Danielle Austria

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The good stuff

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

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AwesomePeopleW H O M A D E T H I S

I S S U E P O S S I B L E

VIdA CRUzIn what time period would you like to be born in? Why?15th to 16th century Philippines. I’m revising a novella set in an alternate Philippines in that era and there’s only so much research material I can get my hands on.

Vida Cruz’s stories have been published in the online magazine Expanded Horizons, and the anthologies Phantazein and Philippine Speculative Fiction vol. 9. She attended the 2014 Clarion Writers Workshop, the 20th Iligan National Writers Workshop, and the 51st Silliman University National Writers Workshop. She likes giraffes and the color purple.

SEBB BORJAIn what time period would you like to be born in? Why? I would like to have been born in the late 50s so that it would have been socially acceptable to try LSD in my 20s by the 70s. And because 80s rock rocks.

Sebb is a fan of Batman, bacon, music, and using the Oxford comma. He also likes setting things on fire so don’t touch his stuff without his permission. If you do, you may be charged with arson-by-association so best not risk it. These are all words made by Sebb, himself, in order to keep people from touching his stuff.

SIBYL LAYAGIn what time period would you like to be born in? Why?I believe there’s no better time to live in than now. But if I were to be born in a different place, I’d like to live during the Age of Enlightenment or in the Roaring Twenties, when women were starting to get recognized as equals in society.

Sibyl is a bookworm and a traveler, an animal lover and a beach enthusiast. Although now a straight-edge business news reporter, her first love is writing features, and so sometimes her verbosity cannot be helped. She was formerly the assistant editor of BluPrint Magazine, an architecture and design magazine.

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ANNA LACSON In what time period would you like to be born in? Why?I would like to have been in my 20’s in the 1930’s. The fashion was great, the typographywas great, and Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong were what you always heard on the radio.

Anna is a visual artist, illustrator, and nomadic designer based in the Philippines.

AISNE TRINIdAd In what time period would you like to be born in? Why? It would have been nice to become part of some revolutionary change in society during the 1960s and be able to join the mass hysteria over The Beatles.

Aisne is a newbie Hong Konger currently in search for a life-changing adventure in a completely, new environment. Believes in the power of nature therapy and happy thoughts. Loves a good view from up a hill or a mountain, and finds inner peace in watching sunsets. An intrepid soul.

JOHAN TäGTSTRöMIn what time period would you like to be born in? Why?I was born at the right time. From the Analog to the Digital age and all the wonderful possibilities it brought along with it.

Johan is a 36-year-old Swedish architectural building engineer and hobby photographer, challenging himself and his way of seeing architecture through his IG feed.

CLAUdINE dELFINIn what time period would you like to be born in? Why?I don’t think I’d change what era I was born in. Prometheus and Bob are worth travelling back in time for.

Most of stuff Claudine does focuses on the mundaneness of things, the relativity of perception, and the strangeness one can extract from something seemingly (and painfully) normal.

EMARRAH SARREALIn what time period would you like to be born in? Why?The Victorian era because I admire the gentility of the noble men and women, their architecture and even fashion. It may seem restrictive but there’s something about how they ordered society that draws me in.

Emarrah works as a writer in a PR company. When she’s not churning out story plans and press releases, she tries to understand why people do what they do.

dANIELLE AUSTRIAIn what time period would you like to be born in? Why?Paano pag keri naman ako sa panahon ko? (What if I’m happy with the time period I live in?)

Danielle is a community manager at Publicis Manila. The Internet has given her delusions grandeur that she can do the world so much good *_* by sharing what she had for lunch.

JOY MERRYL NGOIn what time period would you like to be born in? Why?I’ve always dreamt of living during the pre-World War II era where everything is so simple and laidback. When beauty is of natural descent, words are spoken with integrity and love is for the hopeless romantic

Joy is an Interior Designer by profession and a traveler by passion. Her love for history and architecture lead her to join the first batch of volunteer scholars for Wikipedia’s Philippine Cultural Heritage Mapping Project in 2014. She currently teaches Theater Design and Commercial Interior Styling at School of Fashion and the Arts.

POLYMATIn what time period would you like to be born in? Why?1950s America, and to be reborn as a touring Russian concert pianist in his 40s.

Polymat is a one-man design studio. More work coming soon.

E S S A Y

T H E H I G H H A L L S O F A R T A day within the storied

walls of the National Museum of the Philippines

Written and photographed by Patrick Kasingsing

P H O T O G R A P H Y b YP A T R I C K K A S I N G S I N G

08P R O F I L E

T H E P E R F E C T A N G L E

Swedish engineer Johan Tägtström and his love for architectural

photography

Photography by Johan Tägtström Interview by Patrick Kasingsing

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F A I T H I N S T O N E

The Spanish religious legacy as seen in three heritage

churches

Written and photographed by Joy Merryl Ngo

STORIES AND IMAGES THAT CELEBRATE THE ART OF ARCHITECTURE

SPACES

S P A C E S E S S A Y

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High Hallsof Art

S P A C E S

W r i t t e n a n d

P h o t o g r a p h e d b y

P a t r i c k K a s i n g s i n g

A n E n c o u n t e r w i t h A r c h i t e c t u r a l H i s t o r y a n d A r t a t

t h e N a t i o n a l M u s e u m o f t h e P h i l i p p i n e s ’

N a t i o n a l A r t G a l l e r y

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s an avid lover of art and architecture, the National Museum of the Philippines’ Museum Month was too good of a chance to pass. It offered the general public free admissiom to the museum for a full month. With my last visit being in 2012 where the Museum still housed artifacts of natural history alongside the national art collection, I was curious to see what changes have been made. And did I mention it was free?

So it was one particularly sunny morning (or rather what started as a particularly sunny day) when I decided to embark on an odyssey of sorts, having to face the many monsters that lurk the corners of Manila, namely traffic, train queues, over-enthusiastic sidewalk vendors, and stealthy thieves who can probably evade the FBI. Nevertheless, I made it in one piece, albeit wet to the bone as I neglected to bring an umbrella when I got caught in a sudden downpour. What followed was three hours of pure artistic and architectural bliss as I walked the renovated Museum’s grand hallways, spent more time than I should have on the museum’s twin grand staircases and toured its many rooms and exhibits thrice.

Notwithstanding the large number of visitors that day (being a Saturday, and we Filipinos, being a lover of all things free) I had a great time taking in all the artistic and architectural treasures before me. Each artwork and architectural detail told a story, one that, when taken together, sums up the colorful and tumultuous history of this country. While my photographs humbly strive to capture the beauty of these objects, they are no replacements for an actual visit.

You’ll be seeing more of this spiral staircase in the succeeding pages.


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You’ll need a few moments to take in the expansive grand exterior of the National Museum’s National Art Gallery, formerly the Legislative Building. While the architectural ornamentation is much simpler from

its ornate prewar self, a sense of grandeur and power still emanates from its neoclassical form, now enhanced by its new pristine white paint job. (thank the gods of taste they got rid of the mustard yellow paint it

formerly had). I would have wanted to take more photographs if it weren’t for the fickle weather and photo-bombing museum patrons.


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I didn’t go around the museum by floor. I was intent on seeing the renovated Senate Hall in person first. I took the left grand staircase

from the lobby and the architecture fanboy in me had me snapping the sumptuous curves and details of the spiral staircase in no time.


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Suffice it to say, I took more photographs of the National Museum’s spiral staircases than artworks.

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This beautiful statue of Venus by master sculptor and National Artist Guillermo Tolentino basks in its quiet niche beneath the ornate grilled skylight that lit up the museum interiors.


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Beautiful skylights cast the museum’s grand hall with subtle natural light.

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The Senate Hall didn’t disappoint. The renovation faithfully restored the hall to its former glory after years of wear and tear. One can just imagine the many important decisions undertaken by the

distinguished gentlemen who sat amidst its ornate pillared walls in ages past.


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After the hall, I started visiting the different exhibit rooms. The Guillermo E. Tolentino hall has a beautiful collection of his sculptures, all artfully arranged and composed. These gentlemen

seemed to be having an erudite discussion.

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Mr. Quezon and friends gaze at patrons and shoot laser beams from their eyes at naughty children and adults who threaten to touch or push over statues. I kid, but it’s sad that there are way

too little museum personnel to deal with the sudden influx of visitors.


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A wall of works by Jose Joya, one of my personal favorite painters.

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A master of murals, Carlos Botong Francisco’s A History of Medicine’s large presence occupies its own room. I really regretted not taking more images of artworks.


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This airy room with a checkered floor houses numerous colonial

church treasures left by 333 years of Spanish rule. A giant retablo that once

adorned the altar of the church of San Nicolas de Tolentino in Dimiao,

Bohol is the room’s centerpiece

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A host of heavenly statuary of saints, biblical characters and translations in stone of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary reside in the Fundación Santiago Hall.


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A trip to the National Museum won’t be complete without a look at, arguably, its most famous artwork, the Spoliarium by the renowned eccentric Filipino painter, Juan Luna, who took eight

months to finish it in 1884. It demands your attention with its huge presence (being 4 m tall and 7 m wide), and grasps it with its emotional and dramatic subject, that of dying gladiators; the painting is perceived by many as evocative of the suffering and oppression suffered by the Philippines under

Spanish rule. Being the museum’s equivalent to the Louvre’s Mona Lisa, taking the painting’s photograph without people can be quite a challenge.

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It was a day well spent, a feast for the eyes that satisfied the artist and frustrated

architect in me. I definitely would be coming back again.

Patrick loves architecture. Period. Follow him on his architectural exploits on Instagram @patrick_kasingsing

T H E P E R F E C T

A N G L E

S P A C E SP R O F I L E

I n t e r v i e w


P h o t o g r a p h y

J o h a n T ä g t s t r ö m

J o h a n T ä g t s t r ö m o n a r c h i t e c t u r a l p h o t o g r a p h y

I curently work as a building engineer, while also handling BIM/IT manager duties at an architectural office in Sweden. This gives me direct access to architecture and enables me to take pictures of buildings. Designing building exteriors and planning structural solutions are akin to composing a picture of a building, in that you search for lines, colors, or tones that capture your mind’s eye, making you want to explore the subject further. A great picture is never static.

How long have you been into architectural photography? Is it more of a hobby or something you’d eventually want to go into professionally in the future?

I’ve been taking architectural pictures since I got my first DSLR in 2009 (Canon 5D mkI). But more frequently during the last three years. It’s a hobby but had also become paid work, as I’ve been commissioned to take the pictures for our company website. I have no thoughts off quitting my day job though (Unless I become a world sensation…Yeah right).

What do you look for in buildings that you photograph?Lines, lines and lines! It’s mainly contemporary architecture that catches my eye. I rarely use normal focus range (35-85) for my shots. I like enhanced reality, and therefore I’m often shooting at the extremes; wide angle at 11mm’s and tele from 300mm’s+. I’m totally in love with my latest lens, the Canon EF 11-24/4L USM. Worth every penny!

What is your day job? And how did it encourage you to go into architectural photography?

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S P A C E S P R O F I L EWhat is your camera of choice? I started with a Canon 5D mkI, upgraded to a Canon 1D mkIII after a couple of years. My latest upgrade is a Canon 1Dx. The difference in pixel quality is incredible.

What things do we have to take note of to create the perfect architectural image?

1. Photography is about capturing light; without light, there is no picture. Different times of the day can evoke different feelings in your picture. Clear blue skies with sharp sunlight isn’t my favorite condition. I opt instead for cloudy skies, which brings out the interesting colors and shapes of architecture.

2. Photo composition involves creating a picture that teases the eye. It’s important to get the lines right. Find the lines and play around with different viewing angles of the building. I put a lot of effort into this step while shooting as well as in the post-processing of the photos. The 1:1 ratio that Instagram uses forces you to crop every picture, and that really challenges you to capture your images ‘perfectly’. This is where I think I’ve made good progress since starting with Instagram.

3. Depending of the condition of the RAW file of your images, different approaches need to be considered. Don’t try to fix something that is already broken. If the clouds, for example, are overexposed (100% white = no information other than white in the pixel), one option is to reshoot the pic OR burn the entire sky in the edit. It gives the picture a very different style, a more “graphic” expression, and a ‘minimalist’ look. I also often shot in ‘bracket mode’ = three different pictures with varying exposures (often with 1 stop apart). This is a great way to capture the perfect pic when you don’t have the time to stay in place and all you have to do is select the best picture after shooting.

Emporia Shopping Mall in Malmö (especially the entrances), Sweden, by Wingårdhs Architecs (www.wingardhs.se) Pictured on opposite page

What building do you badly want to photograph and why?How about every modern building in Switzerland!? Love their architecture, enhanced by the wonderful surroundings.

What is it about architecture that you love to photograph? Do you dabble as well in other photography genres like portraiture? Nature photography?

I like beautiful things. I take pictures of everything that teases my eye (Though its 90% architecture). That’s why I’ve chosen not to publish other genres on my IG account. It’s an Architecture account.

Any other hobbies? What do you do in your spare time?Mainly photography and architecture. Working on my own building projects at home and taking forest walks with my dogs

Any architectural idols that you look up to?Not anyone specific. I think I could name a hundred but not put one ahead of the other.

Favorite building that you photographed?

For more of the Johan’s architectural photography, follow him on Instagram @johfot

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S P A C E S

Faithin Stone

W r i t t e n a n d P h o t o g r a p h e d b y

J o y M e r r y l N g o

T h e S p a n i s h r e l i g i o u s l e g a c y a s p r e s e r v e d i n t h r e e s e l e c t e d c h u r c h e s

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or the love of history and architecture, whenever I travel around the Philippines, I always make it a point to visit the city’s most prominent heritage church not only for religious purposes but also as a way for me to culturally connect with the place. According to our history lessons, churches are often a local town’s first-built edifice, together with its city hall with a plaza in between, a signifier of the progressive society that dwells within during these colonial times. Town landmarks like churches are often the silent witnesses

of celebrated as well as tragic events that run throughout the course of a town’s historyI’ve always loved to visit and tour heritage churches and I always take time in taking photos

of every nook and cranny of these magnificent structures, most especially their often-intricate interiors. It always amazes me how the builders and artisans of yore put up these strong, durable, walls, complete such complex carvings on the doors and façade, execute beautifully hand-painted interior walls and ceilings, and most of all, conceive of the grandest, and most elaborate of altars, as if created to compete with other churches. I also learned from my exploration of local churches that the raw materials used to erect these structures are indicative of the topographical condition and location of the church, as exemplified by these three featured renowned heritage churches in the Philippines.

Churches often welcome visitors with an exquisite arcaded entry point, like this one in Morong Church, Morong, Rizal


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East of Manila is a town in Rizal called Morong, who is in possession of a magnificent church with a striking Baroque-inspired façade with an integrated bell tower. This is the St. Jerome Parish Church. The corners of the church’s

belfry are marked by four angelic carvings each representing the four cardinal virtues. The church was also to have been built by Chinese craftsmen with visible

oriental influences and ornamentation such as the presence of a Fu dog or a Chinese lion guardian standing sentry at the church entrance.

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The church was said to have been built through forced labor of the town’s men, women and children back in 1600s during the height of the Philippine Spanish colonization. Made up mostly of river stones, sand and gravel, the raw materials indicate that the church’s location is surrounded

by hills and rivers. The domed ceiling with painted Holy Evangelists at its four posts is the church’s most dominating interior feature.


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There is so much to say about this UNESCO World Heritage Site in the town of Miagao, Iloilo. No trip to Miagao will be complete without visiting the distinctive

Santo Tomas de Villanueva Church. It has a Baroque-Romanesque inspired architecture with an ornately decorated bas-relief façade, and interestingly, two differing bell towers.

It is also one of few churches in the Philippines with flying buttresses as support for the church’s walls. Made up of adobe, limestone, egg and coral, the materials speak of a

town beside water.


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This has always been a family favorite to visit whenever we are in northern Luzon. At the heart of Paoay town in Ilocos Norte you’ll find

the spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Site, the famous Paoay Church or Iglesia de San Agustin Paoay. Its distinguishing feature is its long

array of stone buttresses that has helped the church withstand numerous earthquakes throughout its history. It has Baroque architecture with a

pagoda-inspired bell tower built at a distance to protect the church from a possible collapse during earthquakes.

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This beautiful statue of Venus by master sculptor and National Artist Guillermo Tolentino basks in its quiet niche beneath the ornate grilled skylight that lit up each floor’s grand lobby.


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The façade is dominated by a massive pediment with Gothic and Oriental influences, as can be seen in the ornamental strokes on its

finials. This contributes to the church’s majestic appearance, aided by its large, commanding presence amidst a sea of greenery. It is mostly made of bricks and coral stones that indicate the clay type of soil of the Ilocos

region, and the nearby presence of an ocean.

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The never-ending renovations left the church interiors looking bare and simple. But through its plainness, one can fully appreciate its Ajulejo

flooring, but even more so, the grand scale of the church. A single chandelier hangs near the altar and its pulpit.

A R T b Y S E B B B O R J A

VISIONS AND VISUALS OF THE CREATIVE MIND

E X H I b I T

N I G H T V I S I O N

Architectural drawings in the dark by artist Anna Lacson

Art by Anna Lacson Interview by Patrick Kasingsing

48E X H I b I T

S E R I O U S P L A Y

The whimsical art of illustrator Claudine Delfin

Art by Claudine DelfinInterview by Patrick Kasingsing

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CANVAS

C A N V A SE X H I B I T

I n t e r v i e w


I n t r o d u c t i o n

A n n a L a c s o n

N I G H T V I S I O NArtist Anna Lacson’s new series of artworks is

an abstracted look at the spaces we live in

Night Drawing No. 11, Graphite pencil on (upcycled) wood panel, 305 x 405 x 5mm

What inspired you to take up painting?In Paris, I saw how the art students learned about painting by copying the masterpieces at the Louvre museum. At 16, I thought that would be a wonderful life achievement to unlock: to be able to paint like an old master. It started that way, but eventually, as I got deeper into art, Irealized the old masters were only the beginning.

What do you do to stay creative? Any rituals? Habits?I’m a graphic designer working in fashion at the moment. It keeps my technical skills in check and also enhances them along the way. I’m an active user of social media sites and I subscribe to artists, museums, galleries, critics, institutions, etc. It’s a great way to stay informedand keep the river of ideas flowing.

What is your design philosophy?Design is useful, art is not useful. The moment art becomes useful, it becomes design. Disclaimer: it doesn’t happen the other way around. When design is not useful it just doesn’t work.

Do you believe in having an art style? Why? Why not?I believe that style is an unavoidable product in the art-making process, because everything must pass through the hand/mind of the artist. It becomes inevitably revealed through recurrence, and years of experience.

Are you more of a spontaneous creative or do you follow a rigid process in the creation of your artworks?

I’m into spontaneously creating rigid processes for the production of my artwork! I love developing personal structures and methodologies for my work. Sometimes the more rigid the parameters, the better. That is becoming an intrinsic part of my practice.

Any other interest aside from painting? A hobby or a personal collection?

I’m crazy about freeform crochet and paper craft. What I like about it is being able to transform a simple object into things that are much larger and grander than the idea of the material itself. I also have a stamp collection, of which my most valued pieces are from countries that no longer exist, like the DDR, Yemen, Czechoslovakia, Burma, and more.

Complete the sentence: Art is...Art is play. I think when it comes to art, the play precedes the thought.

In Night Drawing s , the h igh leve l of contras t between the f la t f in ish of the wood and the meta l l ic lus ter of the g raphi te i s a source of v isua l tens ion. They depict var ious shapes made by the facades, archi tectura l s t r uctures, and infras tr uctures found in the c i ty. The resu l ts are images that appear to be abstract ion. These drawings emphas ise the condi t ion that the spaces and p laces that we l ive in are a l so based on our abstract ideas that have taken for m in rea l i ty and become a tangib le par t of da i ly l i fe. My drawings mere ly re turn the shapes into the for m of an abstract idea , in order to h ighl ight the man-made; idea-based constr ucts that a l ter nature and create an ar t i f ic ia l communal space.-Lac son

For more of Anna Lacson’s work, visit her portfolio at www.annalacson.com

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S E R I O U SP L A Y

C A N V A SE X H I B I T

I n t e r v i e w


Illustrator and graphic designer Claudine Delfin and her brand

of visual storytell ing

Foothills of the Headlands

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What inspired you to take up illustration?I really loved watching cartoons growing up. If I could watch Nickelodeon all day back then, I would have. I guess that’s a reasonable chunk of the reason why I got into illustrating. I loved how odd and strange all these characters on tv looked that I aspired to create the likes of them as well.

What do you do to stay creative? Any rituals? Habits?Coffee’s my poison of choice to keep my brain running. It’s such a pedestrian answer, but it really works for me! Aside from gawking in awe at the works of artists I admire which I find online, I also get some ideas from reading books. Experiencing a story that I really like takes me places I didn’t know my brain could wander to.

What is your design philosophy?The weirder the better! Kidding aside, I value the story behind my works (or any work for that matter). If they could tell a story and bring the viewer to look closer, then that sort of makes me think that maybe I did something good. All my works should tell a story and be worth a double take.

Do you believe in having an art style? Why? Why not?Having an art style helps to give you guidelines on what you want to do but I don’t think one should strictly stick to a single style. Art styles are great in a sense that you establish your voice as an artist or your brand as a professional but art styles should never be constrictive. I mean, what’s the fun in creating when you’re not free to play around with your forms?

Are you more of a spontaneous creative or do you follow a rigid process in the creation of your artworks?

Oh god, spontaneous is the last thing I’d call myself. But I don’t really have a rigid process either. After doing it for some years though, I can say that a simple outline of my journey when it comes to creating something involves only a few steps: lie on my bed thinking about what I want to do (could take weeks), go outside or online to find inspiration, lie on my bed again, do a rough sketch on paper, and then start with the art.

Any other interest aside from painting? A hobby or a personal collection?

I read novels. I enjoy horror films. I have cats. I recently got into retro gaming. I enjoy managing my pet projects at DITO: Bahay ng Sining (a café/art space in Marikina). I also help out as a designer of our theatre company, IKARUS.

Complete the sentence: Art is......something I will always have trouble describing, understanding, and letting go.

Ar t i s something I wi l l a lways have t rouble descr ib ing , understanding , and le t t ing go. -De l f in

For more of Claudine Delfin’s works, visit her portfolio website at claudinedelfin.com


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Feels Like Clockwork, 2014

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Piso(t), 2015


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Illustrations for a story book, 2015

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Au Naturale, 2015

It’s time you let those words out of your head.

Write those words down and let your ideas loose. Want to share them? Send us your stories at

[email protected]

kantoC R E A T I V E C O R N E R S

A R T b Y P O L Y M A T

THE ART AND MAGIC OF THE WRITTEN WORD

INK

P R O F I L E

V I d A C R U z A storyteller with an eye for

the extraordinary

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F I R S T P L A Y F O R A N d B Y T I K B A L A N G T R I G G E R S U P R O A R O N O P E N I N G N I G H T

64 66S H O R T S T O R Y

A R A B I A NN I G H T S

Written and photographed by Patrick Kasingsing

First published in Stache Magazine, June 2012

Written by Vida CruzFirst published in Philippine

Speculative Fiction Vol. 9 Interview by Patrick Kasingsing

When you instill in children a love of books at an early age, say 8 years old, they will often turn out wanting to write their own books. I am a product of this; however, I didn’t take writing seriously ‘til I turned 18 years old.

Which fiction genre do you write for and why? Fantasy mostly, though I’m trying to branch out into science fiction. I’ve always been curious about the world; many of my daydreams are “thought experiments” utilizing a “what-if” that would otherwise have been impossible. I like the added challenge of worldbuilding, too. But most of all, it makes me happy.

Any authors you look up to? What about their work inspires you?

I’ll try narrowing it down: Nikki Alfar (ironic style), Catherynne Valente (prose and transformations of fairy tales), Terry Pratchett (insightful/incisive social commentary and sense of humor), Zen Cho (romance, social commentary, and dialect) and recently, Rachel Hartman (worldbuilding and relationships). Each one has also turned genre tropes on their heads.

How do you write? Are you the type that can write for hours on end or one that works in short bursts?

I write very slowly. The longest time I’ve spent on a short story is four months. I don’t often have a story, but when I do, I work on it for an average of three hours daily until it’s finished. Right now, I’m still trying to understand my own process.

How did you find interest in writing?

Vida CruzI N kP R O F I L E

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What do you do to stay motivated and creative? Any rituals, habits, or practices to share that gets your brain working?

I carry with me an idea notebook where I design, embellish, and doodle the words and sentences so that when I glance at it on a bad day, I’m reminded that I’m not out of ideas. I’ve probably just overworked myself to the point where I can’t write.

A book that changed your life and how did it do so? Cat Valente’s The Orphan Tales: In the Cities of Coin and Spice. When I first finished it, I thought, “I didn’t know I wanted to write like that.” When I heard Cat was teaching at the Clarion Science Fiction and Fantasy Writers Workshop in 2014, I just had to apply.

How alike/unalike are you with your story characters? Why/why not?

Each of my characters, especially the protagonists, have some aspect of my personality that I’ve magnified at most tenfold for the context of the story (I’m irrationally afraid of running out of “self” to cannibalize and transform, actually). So, they are all both like and unlike me.

Describe your ideal ‘writing’ space. Absolutely quiet, with a big window that lets in the breeze. There should also be speakers I can plug my phone into if I want to play music while writing. In other words, my room minus my karaoke-loving neighbors. But I’ve learned to write wherever I am, environment notwithstanding.

Finish the sentence. Writing is... Hard work, so value it.

Any advice/tips for budding writers?First, learn to take criticism. Second, learn to distinguish between helpful and unhelpful criticism by keeping in mind that criticism is for the sake of improving your story, not fanning your ego. Lastly, don’t dish it if you can’t take it—critique stories the way you’d like yours to be.

When you inst i l l in ch i ldren a love of books a t an ear ly age, they wi l l of ten turn out want ing to wr i te the i r own books. -Cruz

Follow Vida on her writing journey at www.vidacruz.wordpress.com, and in Ghost Words (www.whereghostwordsdwell.wordpress.com) where you can scraps, excerpts, and deleted sections from her and her writer friends’ stories.

I N K

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First Play for and by Tikbalang Triggers

Uproar on Opening

Night

F i r s t p u b l i s h e d i n P h i l i p p i n e

S p e c u l a t i v e F i c t i o n V o l . 9

Ava i l ab l e a t Amazon . com

A N E X C E R P T F R O M

b Y V I D A C R U Z

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A cha-cha with insanitys expected, many of Bulan’s colleagues and contemporaries from the local art and theater scenes are vehemently opposed to his project of epic proportions—not least of them the former members of his production, who were rumored to have been overworked and underpaid. But perhaps the most interesting member of the latter is Bulan’s former best friend and Head of Production Design, multi-awarded Elysia Bernardino.

Bernardino, who uses her marvellously knobby, blue-veined hands in grandiose gestures when she speaks, unwittingly staged a mutiny when in her own walk-out, she was followed by many of the stagehands, sound engineers, makeup artists. Mutineers included National Artist for Theater props designer Simplicio Dimaculangan and his team, and even multi-awarded costume designer, Maricris Lobelia.

“Hesus, I didn’t mean any of that,” she said in an exclusive interview granted to The Archipelago Daily at her private residence Friday. “How the hell was I supposed to know they were just looking for an excuse to leave?”

I could not see any of her sala’s four walls: one face was decorated from floor to ceiling with her awards, plaques, and medals; her favorite sketches were tacked up on another. A third was covered with pictures of her large family, while the last was obsessively plastered with photos of her and Bulan and her finished mechanical inventions from the four productions they collaborated in for the last 19 years.

We chatted about many things found on those four walls, including her partnership with Bulan. The saddest of her stories was how she and Bulan grew especially close after her second husband died from a mugging incident. Bernardino—who will become a grandmother for the first time next month, recounted how, soon after the funeral, she marched into his office in the Sherwood-Fuller theater in Makati, four months pregnant and demanding she be given work, and he told her to make the first thing that came to her mind.

“You have to understand, he never throws anything away, kaya ang daming kalat sa opisina niya (his office is a mess),” she shared. “In an hour, I assembled a sloppy handgun from old computer parts. Then he opened his book of epics to the table of contents, closed his eyes, and pointed randomly. Then he looks up at me and says, ‘Ely, we’re staging the Hinilawod as a gang war. Keri ba?’”

“And I threw myself into the work until the day I broke down crying while building the rotating stage—alam mo ba yung ginawa niya noon (You know what he did then)? He took me by the hand and taught me how to cha-cha until I laughed.”

When we finally came to the subject of Noladi, Bernardino said, “They say artists approach the border to insanity when making art. Jerald Bulan has not only crossed over to insanity—he dances the cha-cha with it.”

She then pulled from a shelf a sizeable sketchbook labelled ‘NOLADI,’ the pages of which were filled from end to end with production notes in her neat cursive and sketches of whimsical designs of backdrops, prop buildings, monsters. There appeared to have been plans of a giant animatronic squid and the façade of a pearl palace capable of folding into itself onstage.

It seems that Bulan’s perfectionism and Bernardino’s ingenuity complemented one another. So what made Bernardino quit the production?

“I know he can be a bit of a slave-driver—that was fine with me dahil alam ko na kung paano siya mag-isip (because I know how he thinks), pero it was hell for everyone else,” said Bernardino, whose leaving the production effectively ended her partnership with Bulan. “May rumors nga that Cheryl almost miscarried because of him. Then he brought in that Tikbalang, but I still stuck with him—even when he brought in the Tianak (demon baby). That is what you do for friends, and he was the best of mine. I hadn’t been as open to anyone since Anthony [her second husband] died.”

Then she sighed and seemed to melt into her armchair with sadness, and it was quite difficult not to feel compassion for her upon hearing her next words. “But I knew I had to leave when he turned the Higanteng Pusit (Giant Squid) into a role instead of leaving it as a prop. It was just too much, too much—even for Jerald. At what cost, though? Ayaw na niya akong kausapin (He won’t speak to me).”

I N K

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S t a c h e M a g a z i n e ,

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I cannot understand it. No matter how hard I try to.

Ten of them, all dead without question.

Suicide. That was the said cause of death, or at least that’s what the management said it was.

I don’t believe them. Why would Pigo and Romulo jump off the building just like that? They seemed quite happy and untroubled when I hung out with them during lunch break.

And what about Alex? Junior? Gabo? Jopi?

Why did they jump off just like that?

I shrugged it off and placed my hard hat on the storage area. It was nearing nine in the evening. I walked towards the station then slipped my employee card into the machine’s slot. I had been a worker at the Al Burj for nine months now. There had been accidents, minor ones. But this. I don’t even know how to classify this one. Is it just an accident? Was it suicide as the construction manager had told us? Or,

Were they pushed?

I walked out of the construction site and stared back at the rising giant behind me. It was a dark monster of a tower, now at about five hundred meters, and still climbing. I expected to feel a sort of rewarding feeling at having contributed to the rising of this monumental structure. The tallest in the world, the placards and promo boards all proclaimed. All I felt was heavy weariness.

I heaved a sigh and hailed a cab home.

Alif

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Just after two months. I can’t believe that it had happened again.

Five workers had leaped off the building.

I saw them this time. I was part of the façade testing crew and heard the screams.

Five bodies diving from the 50th floor, that same floor from where the ten workers jumped. Something bothered me. The screams sounded nothing like fright or fear. It sounded almost happy.

Ecstatic.

The next screams that followed were cries of horror and disbelief. Many workers had seen it too. I prayed for their souls. I later learned that Gardo, a close friend of mine was one of the jumpers. Works halted momentarily as the bodies were retrieved. But I don’t understand it.

I don’t understand it at all.

Why do they want to end like this?

And what is it that makes them happy even as they meet a horrible death?

No doubt. Tower construction will be halted again for a month. Or more.

Time to iron out the mess, file paperwork, to get new workers. And of course, no work no pay.

This is all very strange.

Naturally, I was angry at these jumpers. If they had their own troubles, why do they have to let us in on their misery? We’ve been having month long breaks after these incidents and not only has these breaks drained me of the meager sum I earned, I also end up failing to send money home. And they need this more than I do.But what was going on in the minds of these people? It’s what intrigued me more. I had lost a lot of close friends already. The Pinoys are dwindling in numbers. Even the other workers were starting to notice the trend.

It was scaring me a lot.

Is something or someone out to get us?

Is the tower cursed?

I dropped off my hard hat and slipped my card into the machine’s slot. I probably won’t be doing this in another month or so. Tomorrow we’ll find out if works will get suspended again.

I hailed a cab home.

Ba

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Three guys jumped off during lunch break.

I was at the same floor with them this time. They were a group of fellow Pinoy workers of whom I’m not close with. If seeing them jump from a distance was scary, watching them do it just a few feet away from you was the most horrifying scene my eyes had ever witnessed.

That fanatic look on their faces and those crazed smiles, with eyes filled with silent sadness. They were horrific in a quiet manner. I can’t seem to shake these ghastly images from my head every time I close my eyes to relax. Those demented happy looks. They were almost inhuman.

One of the workers, whose name was Arturo called out to me. This shocked me. I didn’t know him at all, and had only heard of him from my other friends.

“Malaya na kami.” (We’re free) He cried out to me, his face all lit up with a look of which I could describe with only one word. Mad.

He then ran with his two other friends near the ledge of the 50th floor and without hesitation, leaped off into space.

I gasped in shock and disbelief. Several other workers were there as well. They all rushed down to ground level. I followed suit.

As I slid my card on the slot in the gate station, I debated in my head whether to still endure this madness.

This mass suicide. It had happened for the third time.

What is wrong? Should I stay here?

I had to. Pay is bad but it’s still money.

I don’t understand all this at all and it’s scaring me.

I shrugged off the strange and wary stares of the other construction workers behind me. They knew I’m Filipino. They must be wondering what has gotten into those weird Filipinos’ heads to think of jumping into their deaths a thousand feet off the air.

I hung my hard hat on the peg and left the site.

I noticed that they had not adjusted the injuries or accidents tally in the status board outside the construction site.

I caught a cab and pointed the directions to home.

Gim

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I swept the starry sky with a glance and smiled.It was nearing nine in the evening and everyone’s preparing to leave. But I didn’t move from my spot. No one bothered to call me out. I sat alone on the ledge of the 50th floor, the city at my feet like a distant world from where I am,

What am I doing here? Shouldn’t I be going home by now?

Home? This is not home. Home is far far away.Definitely not here.

They are firing me. All Filipino workers in the construction site are getting the boot after the latest incident.We must have proved to be quite a headache for the developers. And now, starting tomorrow, I’ll be a jobless man.What do I do now?

I slapped both my hands in my head and cradled it. The wind was picking up and the hairs on my arms are standing on end with the cold.But my mind was entirely in a different world. Rent’s due for my room tomorrow. Nanay (Mom) needs money for her treatments soon. Teresa needs money for her tuition on Tuesday.And I can’t even leave this place.

I could feel tears streaking my cheeks. It’s their fault! Those stupid jumpers!If they had their own problems, why do they have to end up giving us with nothing to do with it larger ones?I looked around me. The floor’s empty now. I’ve got it all to myself until morning.I thought going here was an answer to all my problems, the realization of my dreams. But it was nothing like how it was advertised on the newspapers or the posters. It was nothing like this at all. And this unrealized dream had ended so fast into a horrible nightmare.

Freedom?Wasn’t that what Arturo said before he jumped? What freedom was he talking about? I shivered as a sudden strong gust rocked me violently. I held on to the ledge.

It was freezing cold.Freedom.

I get it now. I understand it now.

I looked down. It was like looking at the sky’s reflection on a vast ocean. The city lights are like stars. Stars that shone brighter. Stars that were closer and easier to reach out to.I stood up. And smiled to myself. Freedom.And jumped.

Akhir

I N K

“Is he awake?”“Amir, give me the jug.”

Where am I?

“He’s talking!”“Quick, call the medic. We have to bring him to the hospital.”“Crazy guy. Probably took off after his crazy Filipino friends.”“Yeah. But what a lucky bastard.”“Where are the medics?”“They’ll be up soon.”

Where am I?

I N k

When not writing all manners of depressing fiction, Patrick Kasingsing indulges in illustration and graphic design. Follow him on Instagram @patrick_kasingsing.

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C O M P A S S

The

W r i t t e n a n d



Review

THIS ISSUE, WE REVIEWED

The Goldfinchby Donna Tartt

The Luminariesby Eleanor Catton

The Lincoln Mythby Steve Berry

A g u i d e t o r e c o m m e n d e d r e a d s a n d n a s t y b o o k s t o u s e a s p a p e r w e i g h t

B O O K S

T H E R E V I E W

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The Goldfinchby Donna TarttQuick disclaimer: avoid this novel at all costs if you hate reading about disasters, depression and drugs; The Goldfinch is definitely not a happy novel. Still here? here’s a quick synopsis: The Goldfinch is the story of Theo Decker, bombing survivor whose mother’s accidental death has affected him so severely it visibly shattered his life in many levels (like causing him to unknowingly steal a priceless artwork, the novel’s namesake, as well as subtly influence his alcoholism and drug use). But more than just a story about a boy with mommy issues, it is a poignant tale of growth, the fickleness of life, and bittersweet triumph, that there is indeed more to life than tragedies and mishaps. The book also touches on the subject of ideals, art and beauty, something artist readers like myself appreciate. It is a hefty book at 800+ pages, and its mostly serious tone had me reading it on and off in a span of two months (Not recommended for reading on long MRT queues and shuttle bus lines). But like life, the book is not completely devoid of happiness. In fact, finding these pockets of happy events in Theo’s troubled life feels rewarding for me as a reader. The bittersweet ending also caps off this colorful tale very well, a book well-deserving of its Pulitzer win. The Goldfinch is a beautiful and melancholic read that deserves a place in your bookshelf.

The witty cover design was one of the first things that grabbed me about the book. It’s supposed to resemble the wrapped package containing the

book’s namesake painting

F O R T H E

S U R V I V O R S

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The Luminariesby Eleanor Catton

An enjoyable read with a colorful and intricate plot spanning 700+ pages, this Booker Prize winner is at first glance, a mystery but is actually an epic love story, a tale that revolves around the lives of several men and women whose destines are intertwined, with lives seemingly anchored by the stars they were born under. Set amidst the final days of New Zealand’s gold rush in the late 1860s, The Luminaries was quite the immersive read; the tempestuous beauty of New Zealand and the book’s complex cast of characters really come to life at the hands of Ms. Catton. Fans of astrology will easily find the premise of the book interesting. In every page, I found myself marveling at the prodigious research and will the author must have taken to craft her numerous major characters so as to bring them to life, and to be perfect embodiments of their astrological signs. While it took me a while to get used to the story’s non-linear storyline, it encourages a fast-paced read as chapters end in cliffhangers and unexpected twists. The novel does pepper your brain with many questions and this is partly because a lot of the action takes place before the events of the novel, and you have to depend on the obviously biased testimonies of the novel’s main characters. These questions do spur you to go on and while the novel did answer most of my burning inquiries, it curiously left some unanswered, so a second read is in order (though maybe this is part of the author’s intention? to retain the book’s aura of mystery?). The ending is both touching and (for me at least) cheesy, especially with such dramatic buildup, but I’m just nitpicking here on an otherwise stellar (pun intended) book that deserves to be on your hands right now. Go grab your copy!

Beautiful book design is definitely a plus; There are also astrolog y charts plotting

the progress of the characters’ star sign in the night sky

F O R T H EH O P E L E S SR O M A N T I C S

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Buddhist monks roaming around the Angkor Wat complex.

The Lincoln Mythby Steve BerryI admit that as a long-time fan of thriller and conspiracy novelist Steve Berry, I risk sounding biased with this review, but as the many other readers and fans can attest on their reviews of the book, Berry’s new thriller does not dissapoint. Steve Berry has the gift of making history sound cool and exciting and he does it again in The Lincoln Myth. We are once again introduced to Cotton Malone, retired American lawyer-agent turned badass antique bookseller who’s found himself in yet another conspiracy fix, this time involving America’s favorite president, Abe Lincoln, the Mormon religion and its colorful history, and a shadowy duo attempting to destroy the United States Union. The novel is trademark Berry: fast-paced; thrilling and informative; this is a novel devoid of loose ends. First-time readers need not worry about continuity of the Cotton Malone series as each book can stand on its own. A surprise for the longtime Berry reader is that it enables a surprise peek into a vulnerability of Malone’s: Romantic relationships, this time with the tempestuous heiress Cassiopeia Vitt, (who has made appearances in past Berry books). Read the book in a span of a week but it’s something I could have finished in a day if I weren’t so busy. It’s that hard too put down. Grab your copy to satisy your thriller fix.

If I had to nitpick on the book, I have to say that am not a big fan of the book design and cover; well, thrillers rarely have good book

covers anyway.

F O R T H EA D R E N A L I N EJ U N k I E

P H O T O G R A P H E D b Y S I B Y L L A Y A G

STORIES OF WANDERLUST AND FAR-FLUNG PLACES

COMPASS

P A S S P O R T

T H E S P I R I T O F C A M B O d I A Aisne Trinidad and her memorable backpacking experience in Cambodia

Written and photographed by Aisne Trinidad

80b A C k P A C k

T H E P A R A d O X O F P A R A d I S EEmbracing Nature in its

raw, beautiful glory in El Nido by Sibyl Layag

Written and photographed by Sibyl Layag

93 105M E M O R I E S

L O S T &F O U N d

Stuff you lost and found during your travels

Written by Emarrah Sarreal

C O M P A S S P A S S P O R T

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The SpiritC O M P A S S

W r i t t e n a n d


A i s n e Tr i n i d a d

M e m o r a b l e m i s a d v e n t u r e s a n d l i f e e x p e r i e n c e s i n C a m b o d i a

of Cambodia

P A S S P O R T

01The writer in Beng Mealea temple


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ambodia was a life-changing experience. The place gave off a feeling of belongingness and inner connection, one that my close friend, Gaby and I, felt, while wandering from one place to another. One thing we’ll never forget about the trip are the temples. These sacred temples are scattered within the historic city of Siem Reap, man-made structures that served as spiritual grounds of the early civilization, places which we found to have remained true to their

spiritual core up to this day. This is probably one of the reasons why Cambodia is considered the perfect destination for people seeking their own spirituality and inner peace.

Our adventure did not end after visiting the popular sites of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. We decided to travel across the border of Cambodia and Vietnam on a bus full of locals, only to find ourselves with several misadventures and moments of frustration. Yet, it was during our downtime on the road when we had nothing else to do but to sit, look out of the window, and observe the world goe by that we discovered the real purpose of our trip: to immerse ourselves in a different culture and broaden our knowledge of this country known for their history of ups and downs.

We were able to witness first-hand the unseen parts of Cambodia sans the tourists and attractions. The massive farm lands, the people, the houses built on stilts, and the ethnicity of rural areas among others. The 12-hour bus ride to the border, despite its unexpected mishaps, has opened our minds and hearts to the beauty amidst the chaos in this side of the world. And it was because of this life-changing adventure that we finally found the truth in the famous saying, “It’s not the destination, but the journey that matters.”

The well-anticipated sunrise in Angkor Wat with a stunning view of the temple’s silhouette.

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Buddhist monks roaming around the Angkor Wat complex.

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Instead of taking the popular tuk-tuk ride, we rented bicycles to visit nearby temples and

buy stuff in the city.


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Temples that are far from the city take about 1-2 hours travel time to reach. Banteay Srei is a Hindu temple and is significantly known for its red sandstone foundation and elaborated Hindu carvings.


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The Ta Prohm Temple was popularized by the movie, The Tomb Raider, and is now one of the most visited temples in Angkor. The gigantic trees that grow out of the ruins add to the scenic sight and beauty of Ta Prohm.


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Situated at the center of Angkor Thom, Bayon Temple distinctively features more than 200 giant stone

heads scattered across its premises.

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The unrestored galleries and walls of Beng Mealea temple have left large amounts of ruins but the stone carvings are still evident.


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PL ACES To go Aside from the well-known temples in Siem Reap, make a detour to Phnom Penh—the capital and largest city of

Cambodia—and visit the Silver Pagoda and the Killing Fields. For an added outdoor adventure, crossing the borders of either Thailand or Vietnam by bus will definitely be one of the trip highlights!

ThINgS To doStart your day watching the magnificent sunrise in Angkor Wat and end it in Phnom Bakheng temple’s panoramic sunset view. For outdoor lovers, cycling would be the best option to visit temples while enjoying the sights of Siem

Reap’s abundant greenery.

W h AT To EATNever leave Cambodia without eating Nom Banh Chok, a Cambodian rice noodle dish topped with fish gravy sauce

and freshly-picked vegetables namely: banana blossoms, mint leaves, bean sprouts, and cucumber. Another traditional Khmer dish is Lok Lak. It is basically stir-fried beef often served with pepper sauce.

Follow Aisne’s travels and new discoveries on Instagram @aisnestein

Cambodia has long been known for its temple attractions that have long fascinated tourists since their discovery. However, this beautiful nation has a lot more on offer that goes beyond your ordinary tourist destination. I believe the best way to experience Cambodia is to wing it by creating your own itinerary. There’s just so many surprises around the corner and nothing beats the joy of discovery that organized tours usually kill. Research is always important before one

embarks on an adventure-filled trip, so educate yourself beforehand by reading travel reviews. Just as important is to remember to keep a positive around you and have fun!

Cambodia

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W r i t t e n a n d


S i b y l L a y a g

H o w E l N i d o ’ s m o s t p r i z e d n a t u r a l a t t r a c t i o n s

d e m o n s t r a t e t h e i m p o r t a n c e o f n a t u r a l h e r i t a g e

The Paradox of Paradise

All manner of private beaches and secluded coves abound in the islands of Bacuit Bay. Some are designated stops for boat tours, while others are

privately owned.

C O M P A S S

B A C K P A C K

C O M P A S S B A C K P A C K

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outriggers bound for the Puerto Princesa Underground River, waiting for passengers. This

portion of the tour is usually crowded and the waiting time is typically insane, but since we went during the off-peak season, we experienced none

of those hassles.

s I weave in and out of the tiny streets of El Nido, an irresistible force pries my gaze away from where I am heading and towards the surrounding karst formations, high and imposing, piercing the sky as it always has for thousands of years. I imagine how the waters of Palawan, the gentle rainwater from above, weave in and out of the tiny crevices in the limestone, influenced by irresistible forces. I imagine how the crevices metamorphose into gaping

holes, into abysses, into entire landscapes that have now been enchanting people from all over the world.Still transfixed by the beauty of the karst islands dotting Bacuit Bay, I found that the feeling I

get from contemplating them is similar to the feeling I get when I look up at the night sky: I feel infinitesimal in the face of the ancient and the immense. But then, when I think of trickling water, flowing against old limestone formations several feet high, I tend to remember that I am among the town’s many visitors, trickling into El Nido, increasing in number as years pass. Are there crevices we are turning into abysses?

We arrived in El Nido a little bit careworn, as the five-hour journey we expected unceremoniously stretched itself into seven hours, and felt more like an eternity. We arrived before dawn broke, and the silent town was enveloped in darkness--no flashing neon lights, no cars stuck in traffic, no karaoke machines wailing in the night. Still, we looked around: we could make out the faint outlines of the karst cliffs flanking the town like sentinels. “This must look so beautiful in the light,” I told my partner.

The crowd-free Nacpan Beach is lined with coconut trees, arranged uncannily neatly along the shoreline.

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Sure enough, we woke up, and the first thing we saw as we looked out our window was an enormous karst cliff, sparsely covered with green and beaming in the sunlight. The view accompanied us during our entire stay. Throughout the trip we placed ourselves under the mercy of nature: allowing the rain to engulf us as we cross the foot of a mountain, trusting in the sturdiness of thick vines and sharp rocks as we clung to them while climbing up a waterfall, letting the clear azure waters buoy us (and our life vests) as we swam across picturesque lagoons.

Belying its reputation as a popular tourist destination, El Nido’s quietness struck us as pleasantly unusual. Other than the profusion of foreigners, quirky restaurants, colorful outriggers and tour agencies lining the streets, it seemed like any other sleepy seaside town. The tricycle drivers might ask if you want a ride, but they don’t insist. There are no noisy vendors selling their wares, nor are there annoying tour agents plying you with their services. This presented quite a contrast to Puerto Princesa, which is definitely not as metropolitan as Makati or Cebu, but is every bit the provincial city--noisy, vivacious, convenient. After a serene three days in El Nido, we returned to the capital, but we didn’t stay long. We went straight to what we came for: the famous Underground River.

It’s funny how nature can toy with one’s imaginations. Inside the cave, the different permutations of how stalactites and stalagmites form gave way to such images as the Virgin Mary, the face of Jesus, a woman’s figure, and a variety of garden vegetables. If the images are ignored, however, the sheer irregularity of the shapes is enough to fascinate. The mineral deposits and even the guano are enough to awe. I was mesmerized by the mere glint on the eroded stone, and I realized why our ancestors chose not to plumb the depths of the cave. Our guide said it was because they thought the cave housed supernatural elements. Indeed, in the face of such marvels, one cannot help but dissolve into breathless reverence.

Belying its reputation as a popular tourist destination, El Nido’s quietness struck us as pleasantly unusual.

From a cliff, a view of Nacpan Beach and its “twin” Calitang Beach, usually used for docking outriggers. In Nacpan Beach, the water is warm with a reasonable depth, and the sand is as fine as can be, making it perhaps the best swimming beach in El Nido.

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one of the stops in Tour A, Seven Commandos Beach. It has superfine

white sand and the feel of the place is so soothing that you might be tempted to just stay. The drinks being sold on the beach are

ridiculously overpriced, though, and sometimes the vendors don’t have change.


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The two of us joined a boat tour of 25 tourists all in all. The boatmen had informative spiels for each of the stops and prepared a buffet lunch of grilled meat, seafood and fresh fruit for us, which we ate a little way off an island called Shimizu Island.

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For me, the best part of the tour was the Big Lagoon. The glorious limestone cliffs

rendered me speechless.


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There is no shortage of karst formations in Palawan. This one greets visitors of the Underground River in Puerto Princesa.

There is something to be said about the preservation of natural heritage. The concept does not exist because natural wonders are bestowed upon us; it is because their mere presence is proof that there are forces bigger than all of us. And so, in a roundabout way, heritage cannot exist without humanity.

Similarly, paradise can be such a paradoxical concept. We see paradise with our own eyes, and we revel in it, but does our mere presence diminish it? If there are no eyes to see and appreciate its beauty, is a place still a paradise? Does paradise equal tranquil, untouched or unadulterated? Sometimes paradise can be felt in the warmth and hospitality of locals, or the wild abandon of youth partying the night away; maybe it’s all in the attitude, or maybe it’s purely what the place means to each and every one of its visitors. Perhaps paradise is really what we make of it, after all.

Gigantic limestone cliffs form the passage of the Big Lagoon.


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The Puerto Princesa Underground River is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has recently been listed as one of the Seven Wonders of Nature.

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We see paradise with our own eyes, and we revel in it, but does our mere

presence diminish it?

Upon reaching Nagkalit-Kalit Falls, our guide said there is a bigger one just above it. Though I was hesitant at

first, I was glad I decided to climb up, as I never would have seen this beauty if I had chickened out.


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Catch up with Sibyl’s travels on Instagram @sibyllayag

PL ACES To go One may visit different beaches, coves, lagoons and islands in Bacuit Bay through four boat tours. Each stop in the four tours has its own charm, and all are beautiful beyond belief. In some stops, one may snorkel or kayak while taking in the views. You

can’t really go wrong with any of the four tours, but the most recommended ones are Tours A and C.

ThINgS To doFor an adventuresome, off-the-beaten-track experience, rent a private tricycle, van, or even a motorcycle and go to Nacpan

Beach and Nagkalit-Kalit Falls. Nacpan Beach, about an hour away from El Nido, is a long, secluded stretch of coconut tree-lined shore with fine, golden-white sand. Nagkalit-Kalit Falls, about 45 minutes from El Nido, is an easy 45-minute hike from

the jump-off point. Don’t forget to climb the side of the waterfall to get to an even taller one--it is well worth it. For a more physically challenging endeavor, climb up Taraw Peak and be greeted by a gorgeous bird’s-eye view of the town and the bay.

W h AT To EATDefinitely do not pass up the chance to partake of fresh seafood. But in case you want something different after a couple days of eating only that, go and look for Trattoria Altrove, a hole-in-the-wall that serves brick-oven pizza that’s surprisingly as close

to authentic Italian pizza as it gets in the Philippines.

There is no other way of saying it: El Nido is a treasure. It is one of the places in the Philippines that allows the country to earn its nickname “The Pearl of the Orient.” This little town by the bay is a seven-hour bus ride from Puerto

Princesa, the capital of Palawan. If one rides a van, the trip shortens by two hours. More than the town itself, the main attraction in El Nido is the karst landscapes on the islands scattered all over Bacuit Bay. There are also hidden gems inland: beaches and waterfalls and springs galore. If you love nature, there is no doubt you will fall in love with El

Nido. So don’t be afraid to rough it! Swim above biting territorial fish, climb precarious heights, squeeze yourself under a crack in the limestone to get inside a hidden lagoon. The boat tours and activities are generally safe, but no matter

how much fun you have, safety should always be of utmost priority. Do not underestimate nature.

El Nido, Palawan

On a debate trip to Indonesia, I lost my sense of security in relation to people of other nationalities. I saw that they also work as hard, that they have more or less the same challenges. After that, relating to them became easier.

I was 10 when I first visited Singapore. It was also the first time I got to visit the public library. It was an amazing experience for me because they had a complete collection of the Baby-Sitters’ Club books! And I admired their library system. I wish we could have something like that.

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Things you’ve lost and found during your travels by Emarrah Sarreal

L o S T

F o U N d&

C O M P A S S

M E M O R I E S

A VISUAL ENDNOTE

PARTING SHOT

Pagbilao, Quezon Province

Photographed bydanielle Austria

Interested in submitting your images? Email us at [email protected]

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See you in January 2016!

This zeen is FREE and cannot be resold in any form.

kanto no. 1

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