karigar haatggg

7/28/2019 karigar haatggg

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Chanderi-Located as a small township of the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, Chanderi, had unending

patronage from the royals and the State even as it carries the past century old weaving profession to the current one.

It was then also famous traditional headgear (Pagri) and drape around (duppatta) for women in fine muslins weaves

made from hand spun yarns. These were then decorated with embellishments in zari till late in the nineteenth

century. However, economic and natural compulsions forced the scenario to change when mill made yarn was

introduced in the last decade of the nineteenth century.

Chanderi fabrics can mainly be classified as pure silk (in warp and weft woven in 13/15 denier), cottons (warp and

wefts in 100 and 120s even give the famed Dacca muslins a run for their money!) and silk-cotton (a combination of

13/15-denier warp with 100s/120s cotton in the weft).

Chanderi stands out due to its uniquely patterned figurines and their motif effects produced with the help of additional

weft design where earlier zari was used in their gossamer creation. Silk added versatility to its artistry in the 1940s

with further introduction of 'fly shuttle' looms, 'jacquard' and 'dobby'.

Today, Chanderi blessed with a mix or traditional and modern techniques and deft skills of weavers honed by

institutional supports stands out as a cluster success in every sense. One wonders how the local traditional weavers

weave gold in silk and cotton to design kaleidoscopic creations that mostly drape the who's who among royalties and

the society elite.


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Chikan (embroidery)- chikan is a traditionalembroiderystyle fromLucknow,India. Literally translated,

the word means embroidery. Believed to have been introduced byNur Jehan,Mughalemperor

Jahangir's wife,[1]

it is one of Lucknow's most famous textile decoration styles.

There are several theories about the origin of Chikankari. Chikankari (process of chikan) wasbasically invented inLucknow(India). It developed quickly during the period whenMughals

ruled and consisted of style inspired by Persians.LucknowinIndiagrew into an international

market for its renowned Chikankari work. There are references to Indian Chikan work as early as3rd century BC. byMegastheneswho mentioned the use of floweredmuslinsby Indians. There

is also a tale that mentions how a traveler taught Chikankari to a peasant in return of water to

drink. However, the Noorjahan story is the most popular of the lot.[2]

The name Chikan has been

derived from thePersianword Chakin or Chikeen meaning a cloth wrought with needlework[3]

Chikan began as a type of white-on-white (or whitework) embroidery.

Technique- Creation of a chikan work (chikankari ) piece begins with the

use of one or more pattern blocks that are used to block-print a pattern on the ground fabric. Theembroiderer then stitches the pattern, and the finished piece is carefully washed to remove all

traces of the printed pattern.[4]

The patterns and effects created depend on the types of stitches and the thicknesses of the threads

used in the embroidery. Some of the varieties of stitches used includebackstitch,chain stitchand

hemstitch. The result is an open work pattern, jali(lace) or shadow-work. Often the embroiderer

creates mesh-like sections in the design by using a needle to separate threads in the groundfabric, and then working around the spaces.

[4]It consists of 36 different Stitches in which the

major stitches are called in Lucknowi language as "Bakhiya" "Fanda" "Murri" "Bijli" "Pechni""Ghans patti" "Ulti Jali".

[5]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroideryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroideryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroideryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucknowhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucknowhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucknowhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nur_Jehanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nur_Jehanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nur_Jehanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mughal_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mughal_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mughal_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jahangirhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jahangirhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucknowhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucknowhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucknowhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mughal_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mughal_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mughal_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucknowhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucknowhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucknowhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Megastheneshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Megastheneshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Megastheneshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muslinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muslinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muslinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-2http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-2http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-2http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Persian_languagehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Persian_languagehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Persian_languagehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-dusenbury-4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-dusenbury-4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-dusenbury-4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backstitchhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backstitchhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backstitchhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chain_stitchhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chain_stitchhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chain_stitchhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-dusenbury-4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-dusenbury-4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-dusenbury-4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-5http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-5http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-5http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-5http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-dusenbury-4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chain_stitchhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backstitchhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-dusenbury-4http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Persian_languagehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-2http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muslinhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Megastheneshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucknowhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mughal_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucknowhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chikan_%28embroidery%29#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jahangirhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mughal_Empirehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nur_Jehanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucknowhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroidery


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Kolahpuri chappals-Kolhapuri chappals are Indian hand-crafted leather slippers that are locallytanned using vegetable dyes. They are famous handcrafted footwear made in the villages of

AthaniTalukin theBelgaumdistrict ofKarnatakastate of India.[1][2]

The villages well-knownfor this traditional form of footwear are Madbhavi, Mole, Athani, Shedbal and Ainapur.

[3][4]

This footwear has been popular since the 18th century. The chappals get their name as the style isKolhapuri, while being sold in adjoining towns and cities of Maharashtra, including Kolhapur, assumed

the brand name of Kolhapuri chappal

Kolhapuri chappals are made from processed leather. Hides of buffalo are processed and grazed.

Grazing of leather makes the leather hard enough for daily wear and tear use.

Some of the traditional designs of Kolhapuri chappals include Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, and Pukari.These chappals are stout, sturdy, day long usable. These are very popular in rural areas of

Maharashtra.[6]

The famous handicraft of Kolhapur, andGeographical Indicationhas been applied by thegovernment.

Mojari- Mojari are made byartisansmostly using vegetable-tannedleather. The uppers are madeof one piece of leather ortextileembroidered and embellished with brass nails,cowryshells,

mirrors,bellsandceramicbeads. Even the bonding from the upper to thesoleis done by cottonthread that is not onlyeco-friendlybut also enmeshes the leatherfiberswith great strength. Some

product range also uses bright and ornate threads.[1]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Athani_%28Karnataka%29http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talukhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talukhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talukhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belgaumhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belgaumhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belgaumhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karnatakahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karnatakahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karnatakahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geographical_Indicationhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geographical_Indicationhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geographical_Indicationhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artisanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artisanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artisanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leatherhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leatherhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leatherhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textilehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textilehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textilehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cowryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cowryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cowryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bell_%28instrument%29http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bell_%28instrument%29http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bell_%28instrument%29http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceramichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceramichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sole_%28shoe%29http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sole_%28shoe%29http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sole_%28shoe%29http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eco-friendlyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eco-friendlyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eco-friendlyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mojari#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mojari#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mojari#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mojari#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiberhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eco-friendlyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sole_%28shoe%29http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beadhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceramichttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bell_%28instrument%29http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cowryhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textilehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leatherhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artisanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geographical_Indicationhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-3http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal#cite_note-1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karnatakahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belgaumhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talukhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Athani_%28Karnataka%29


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Inancient timesthese were worn by multitude and royalty. As it evolved through the centuries

and is being produced by individual artisans, products vary in designs and colours. It encapsules

cultural diversity, local ethos and ethnicity.

The ethnicity of the traditional skills accentuate into poetry when intermingled with the

contemporary colours and designs. Applique in form of differently designed figures are cut outof leather and sewn on the vamp manually. The design would dictate the nature, colour and

shape of the appliqu. It could range from an intricate appliqu which itself could incorporate

other design features like embroidery, punches, weaves, etc., to a simple cut out shape from anymaterial like leather, textile, synthetic, etc.

Mojari is referred to a man's closed shoe with an extended curled toe, while as juttis have flat fronts. In

juttis, rear is normally covered but mojaris have an open look from behind. Produced mainly inJaipur

andJodhpur, cities ofRajasthan, these juttis were flat soled and there were no left-right distinctions

between them.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_historyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_historyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_historyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cultural_diversityhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cultural_diversityhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaipurhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaipurhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaipurhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jodhpurhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jodhpurhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jodhpurhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rajasthanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rajasthanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rajasthanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rajasthanhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jodhpurhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaipurhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cultural_diversityhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_history

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