kata pengantar · 2020. 5. 29. · middle kapuas hulu development area, where we want to focus on...

This first edition published in 2007 by Tourism Working Group Kapuas Hulu District

COPYRIGHT © 2007 TOURISM WORKING GROUP KAPUAS HULU DISTRICT

All Rights Reserved, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, ortransmitted to any form or by any means, electronic, mecanical, photo-copying, recording, or otherwisewithout the prior permission of the copyright owners.

CO-PUBLISHING MANAGER : Hermayani Putera, Darmawan IsnainiHEAD OF PRODUCTION : JimmyWRITER : Anas NasrullahPICTURES TITLE : Jean-Philippe DenruyterILUSTRATOR : Sugeng HendratnoEDITOR : Syamsuni Arman, Caroline KugelLAYOUT AND DESIGN : JimmyTEAM OF RESEARCHER : Hermas Rintik Maring, Anas Nasrullah, Rudi Zapariza, Jimmy,

Ade Kasiani, Sugeng Hendratno.

PHOTOGRAPHIC CREDITSSugeng Hendratno: 1, 2BL, 2BR, 4B, 5L, 6, 7, 14A, 14BR, 21R, 21BL, 22B, 26L, 27T, 27A, 30, 33, 35, 40AL,40AR, 43A, 43BR, 46T, 51, 54BL, 55B, 58BL, 58BR, 64BR, 66A, 67A, 68, 72B, 75A, 76L, 77BL, 77BR, 78, 79BL,80L, 83B, 84B, 85B, 90B, 94L, 94B, 94A, 99L, 102BL, 103M1, 103M3, 103M5, 103R3, 103R6, 104L1, 104M2,105L3, 105L4, 105M3, 105R1, 105R3, 105R4, Jimmy: 2A, 3A, 3L, 4T, 5B, 13L, 14R, 14BL, 15, 16 AL, 16 AR, 16B,17A, 18T, 18R, 18BL, 18BR, 19, 20, 21T, 21BR, 22T, 22A, 23AL, 24, 25, 32BL, 32BR, 40T, 40L, 42, 43BL, 44 All,45 All, 47, 48, 49, 50 All, 52, 53L, 54BR, 55T, 57TR, 57B, 59 All, 61AL, 62, 64BL, 66R, 69A, 69BL, 69BR, 70 All,71AL, 71AR, 71BL, 71BR, 72A, 74, 75B, 76B, 79A, 79BR, 80B, 81, 83, 84L, 85AL, 85AR, 87 All, 88, 89, 90AL,90AR, 90M, 92, 93 All, 98B, 99B, 100, 101, 102AR, 102M, 103L1, 103L2, 103L3, 103L4, 103M2, 103M4, 103R1,103R2, 103R4, 103R5, 104L4, 104M1, 104M3, 104R1, 104R2, 104R4, 105R5, 105M1R, 106, 107, 108, 110, 111T,111L1, 111L2, 111L3, 111R2, 11R3, Hermas Rintik Maring:109 All, Jomandi Loka: 13A, 39, Ade Kasiani: 17L,17B, 23AR, 291, 29R, 34A, 34L, 41, 46L, 45A, 60, 63A, 64A, 69M, 71M, 77A, 82A, 82L, Hermayani Putera: 26B,31A, 31R, Bearing: 28, Rudi Zapariza: 36, 61AR, 61B, Iwan Wibisono: 37, Anas Nasrullah: 56, 57TL, 67L,Markus Lasah: 57M, 65T, 65A, 65L, 73, Albertus: 63B, 95T, 97A, 97L, 98L, 102AL, 102BR, 104L2, 104L3,104R3, 105L1, 105L2, 105M1, 105M2, 105M4, 105R2., 111R1, 111R4.

FRONT COVER : “ Motor Bandong “ by : JimmyTITLE PAGE : The sun tries to reach the river through the thick canopy. Potan River, part of the

Sibau watershed by : Jimmy

Several pure water streams find their origin in the tropical rain forest.The Potan River will then feed the Sibau River. Potan River, part of the Sibauwatershed by : Sugeng Hendratno

Stunning cascades: a refreshing surprise in the oppressing heat and moist of theforest. Potan River, part of the Sibau watershed by : Jimmy

contentsFirst Gate to Kapuas HuluRiver CruiseSt. Sy. Abdurrahman MosqueKadariyah PalaceThe Equator MonumentTourism InformationKapuas Hulu at a GlanceClimatePeople Dayak MelayuReligion Islam Christianity Buddhism HinduismFestival Islamic Celebration Chinese Festival Christmas Festival Harvest FestivalFacilitiesKapuas Hulu as a Conservation DistrictKapuas Hulu mid Section AreaArea OverviewInteresting Feature of Mendalam RiverWhat are to be Found in Sibau RiverFruit SeasonMendalam WatershedSambus Village Characteristis of Melayu Daily Activities Durian Taffy Silat Martial ArtSemangkok Village Taman People Art and Culture Perfomance Dances and Musical Instrument Traditional Food Traditional Drinks Handicraft

Traditional Healing Kulambu Shifting CultivationThe Kayan People Characteristic of Kayan People Cultural Perfomance at Tanjung Karang, Padua and Datah Dian Village Dange Festival Art and Culture Production of Mandau Wood Carving Tattoo ArtBukat People Characteristic of Bukat People Mahap (Starch Collecting) Traditional Medicine Traditional Hunting (Ngasu) Torch Making Tajem (dart) Making Fishing Art and Culture Musical Instrument Bukat DancesCamp House MentibatSalt SpringMendalam Kapuas TrekSibau Watershed The Trip Bali Gundi Home stay Nanga Potan Village Orangutan Trek Pengkal Jabon and Betung Kerihun National Park Trek Climbing Mount Lawit Salt Spring Traditional FishingBio DiversityExsotism of Flowering SeasonSplendor of Flowering Season and Relation to BiodiversityAnimal and Bird Watching

Assalamualaikum warohmatullahi wabarokatuh

After the first volume of the Kapuas HuluTravel Guide (Eastern part of the Kapuas HuluDistrict), which focuses on adventure in nature,received enthusiastic appreciation from variousparties such as ecotourism promoters, tourismcompanies, NGOs, the regional government as

FOREWORD

well as local, national and international enthusiasts, and in order to implementthe commitment of the local government of Kapuas Hulu to promote tourismand culture, we are happy to introduce the second volume of the Kapuas HuluTravel Guide. It offers a description of diversity and uniqueness of culture andtradition practiced by various ethnic groups in the mid-section of the KapuasRiver, particularly in the Mendalam and Sibau watersheds.

This second volume is dedicated to the management of culture andnature tourism in a responsible and sustainable way. We see this kind oftourism as a form of implementation of a wide ranging, real and responsiblelocal autonomy based on the principles of protection, appreciation andconservation of adat, culture and tradition of the people in the area. This waytourism will not only reap economic benefits, but will also serve to minimize itsnegative impact toward people and environment.

Let us hope that this second volume will create positive impactstowards the development of ecotourism in particular and the development ofthe people of Kapuas Hulu in general.

Wassalamualaikum warohmatullahi wabarokatuh

BUPATI KAPUAS HULU

Drs. H. Abang Tambul Husin

Kepala Dinas Pariwisata dan Kebudayaan Daerah Kabupaten Kapuas Hulu

Drs. H. Hasan M

Assalamu’alaikum warohmatullahi wabarokatuh

The Mendalam and Sibau watersheds constitute theMiddle Kapuas Hulu Development Area, where we wantto focus on culture and nature tourism. Such foci are madein regard of investigations conducted by the WWF-Indonesia and the Betung Kerihun National Park (BKNP)Management Unit, assuming that this area possesses afairly high diversity of culture.

FOREWORD

The variety of tourist activities that can be pursued in the Middle Kapuas Hulu DevelopmentArea includes ecotourism, research and educational tourism. In the Western and mid-section of this area there is a great variety of culture, adat and traditions, traditionalknowledge and wisdom of various ethnic groups, beginning with Sambus, then Taman,Kayan, Bukat, Kantu, and Suru’.

In the Eastern section one can find the Betung Kerihun National Park that possesses a highdiversity of flora, fauna and landscapes that have been charted as tourist destinations thatsatisfy the criteria of tourism development vested at the BKNP Management Unit.

Let us hope that the second volume will satisfy the expectations of people who are eagerto find new tourist destinations and attractions that offer cultural uniqueness, genuine adatand traditions, aspects of traditional wisdom etc. Finally we hope this book will contributepositively towards the development of tourism in Kapuas Hulu in the future.

Wassalamualaikum warohmatullahi wabarokatuh

This volume contains information on tourism destinations andattractions in the Middle Section of Kapuas Hulu Tourism

Development Area. It is intended to complement informationon Eastern Section of Kapuas Hulu Development Area

contained in the first volume and as testimony of continuingcommitment of Tourism Working Group in Kapuas Hulu

District comprising Kantor Bupati Kapuas Hulu, DinasPariwisata Kapuas Hulu, Komunitas Pariwisata Kapuas Hulu

(KOMPAKH), and WWF-Indonesia.

9 full color area map, city map and location map and more than260 full color photographs

For further information please contact:Tourism Working Group Kapuas Hulu District

Jl. Pendidikan No. 3 Putussibau(0567) 21051

1

In Pontianak there are two watertowers, one in Ahmad YaniStreet, another one in MerdekaTimur Street. Aside from beinguseful facilities for the city’sresidents, these two towers havebecome monumental landmarks of Pontianak.

WATER TOWER

Pontianak Equator City

West Kalimantan is the province of Indonesia which includes the longest part of the equator line withinits borders.and the zero degree line falls within the borders of the city of Pontianak, the province’scapital. The city sits on a vast delta formed at the junction of two big rivers, Kapuas and Landak.Syarif Abdurrahman Al Qadri, a merchant of Arab descent, selected Pontianak as the capital duringthe Kadryah sultanage in 1770. Today, 35% of the population of Pontianak is of Chinese descent,only second in percentage to the Chinese population living in the nation’s capital Jakarta. The rest ofthe population consists of the ethnic groups of Melayu and Dayak.


First GateFirst GateFirst GateFirst GateFirst Gateto Kapuas Huluto Kapuas Huluto Kapuas Huluto Kapuas Huluto Kapuas Hulu

Left: One of Pontianak’stwo colorful waterreservoirs. Pontianak, WestKalimantan.

If you visit Pontianak today youcan go straight from the SupadioAirport to various three starhotels such as the Santika Hotelat Diponegoro Street, Kini Hotelat Nusa Indah Street, PeonyHotel and Gajah Mada Hotel atGajah Mada Street, or GrandMahkota Hotel at Sidas Street.

2

Development in thePontianak Municialityhas gained accelera-tion in the last fiveyears. Many minimarkets, super-markets, malls, andeven a mega mall havebeen built around thecity. These modernshopping facilitiescannot entirelyreplace the traditionalmarkets found aroundthe city such asMawar, Kemuning,Dahlia, Cempaka,Puring, Flamboyan,Teratai, and DuniaBaru. The importanceof the traditionalmarkets cannot beoverstated since theysupply low incomefamilies and urbanpaupers. Thecommodities soldinclude traditionalvegetables andtraditional fruits thatcan bean exotic treatto tourists. On theother hand, thesefacilities preserve thetraditional pricebargaining thatstrengthens theinterpersonal bondbetween sellers andbuyers and helps thecity creating acommunity cohe-siveness.

If you need to change a foreign currency to rupiah or vice versa youcan find several money changers at Tajungpura Street and GajahMada Street. In the same neighborhood you can go shopping at LigoMitra Super Market at Gajah Mada Street, or visit Gajah Mada Malland Matahari Mall at Pattimura Street, and Ayani Mega Mall at AhmadYani Street.

To get information about tourist destinations and attractions you cancome to the Tourism Office at Jenderal Soetoyo 1 Pontianak. In thisoffice sufficient information about tourism around Pontianak and inWest Kalimantan is provided to help you to make your choices. Youcan also recieve brochures on tourist objects and attractions at the

TRADITIONAL

MARKET


Top: A young boy makes aliving by selling fruits on thestreet. Pontianak, WestKalimantan.

Below: Modern shoppingcenters provide the visitor witha great variety of goods.Pontianak, West Kalimantan.

3

Pontianak is commonlydubbed as water city(kota air) because thefamous Kapuas River runthrough the city centerand divide it intonorthside and Southside.As such the services ofpaddling boat and motordriven boat are stil ldominant in bringingpeople across the river. Inthe past boathouse wasused to transport goodsto the interior andbrought back variousproduces to the city.Nowadays land transportis gaining more and moreimportance either in thecity or between city andtowns within theprovince. Urban landtransport such as oplet(small jeep), van, and citybus are not difficult to getalthough sometimesbecomes crowdedespecially during rushhours.

URBAN TRANSPORT

hotel you stay in, or visit several tour agencies which can easily befound near the hotels or along the main road in the city.

River CruiseIf you are interested you can also make a short cruise along theKapuas River that splits the city into two parts, and witness the otherside city life of Pontianak, such as the hustle and buzzle of the KapuasBesar market, and the daily activities of the city residents who live onthe river sides. During this trip you can see important landmarks of thecity from the river e.g. the Equator Monument, the Kadaryah Palace,and the Abdurrahman Mosque that was built in 1770 by the first Sultanof Pontianak.


Above: Lively markets onthe Kapuas Besar riverside.Pontianak, West Kalimantan.

Left: Furniture doesn’talways travel the way youthink. Kapuas River,Pontianak, West Kalimantan.

4

Kampong Beting is calledby that name because in thepast the area was submergedand after a long timesedimentation formed newland at the junction of theKapuas and the Landakriver (in the local languagebeting means sandy sediment).In the beginning, acommunity of peoplecoming from Putussibau tosell their products inPontianak, tied their boatsin the shallow water andlater built floating houses(lanting). Today the wholearea has developed into alarge and crowdedsettlement area that sits ontop of a delta characterizedby constant inundationduring high tide. People’shouses are built using strongand durable timber, andconnections betweenhouses are constructed ofnarrow and long bridgesmade of belian timber.

KAMPONG BETING

Sultan Syarif Abdurrahman Mosque

This mosque was the first structure built in the beginning of Pontianakssultan era. It is located at the bank of the Kapuas River, face to facewith the Kadariah Palace. The architecture bears resemblance withmosque architecture in Sumatera, although with a distinct feature ofstratified quadrangle. It is completely made out of the best wood ofWest Kalimantan. This mosque has a beautiful design and the interioras well as the exterior parts of the structure have a specificallyIslamic character. You can visit this mosque using the service ofsmall rowing boats or speedboats from the Senghi Jetty at SultanMuhammad, and head across the river for a very short 10 minute tripwith the speedboat.


Top: Sultan Syarif AbdurrahmanMosque, one of the enchantingsights you come across whentraveling on the Kapuas River.Kapuas River, Pontianak, WestKalimantan.

Below: As in many other cities inKalimantan, boats are a handyway of getting around. KampongBeting, Pontianak, WestKalimantan.

5

According to an old story,Sultan Abdurrahman AlQadrie was disturbed by aKuntilanak ghost when hedecided to erect his palace.To frighten away the ghosthe built a wooden cannon.That is why today thecommunity living inKampong Beting andthose living on the oppositeside of the river stage acannon war duringcelebration days such asIdul Fitri, Idul Adha, andNew Year. After a long timeKuntilanak waspronounced Pontianakandbecame the name ofthe city.

HISTORY OF WOODEN

CANNON

Kadariyah Palace

About 100 meters south of the Abdurrahman Mosque you can see theKadariyah Palace. Today the Kadariyah Palace has been turned intoa museum for ancient structures in which all of the remaining wealthand ceremonial objects of Pontianak’s Sultan era are still kept anddisplayed, such as the throne, the royal attire, keris and other royalweaponry, cannons, and other palace accessories. Sultan SyarifAbdurrahman built the 50 x 30 meters palace in the year 1971. Sincehis reign eight sultans have lived in it. The last Sultan of Pontianakdied in 1978.


Left: The Kadariyah Palace isthe oldest building in town. It isaccessible to visitors.Pontianak, West Kalimantan.

Below : Wooden canon.

6

The equator monu-ment was built by theDutch Colonial Government. In 1967, theIndonesian Govern-ment renewed theoriginal monu-mentwith a six meter tallreplica. Tourists whovisit the monumentare given a certificatesigned by the rulingmayor. Once a year acultural event is heldin conjunction withthe solar cul-minationpoint that takes placeat the equator on the23rd of May and 23rd

of September everyyear.

THE EQUATOR

MONUMENT AS SOLAR

CULMINATION POINT


The Equator Monument

The equator line in fact is an imaginary line marking the spatial relativeposition of the earth and the sun, which splits the earth into twosections, North and South. The zero degree line runs through the cityof Pontianak. To commemorate this uniqueness the Dutch Colonialgovernment built the equator monument exactly on zero degree of theequator line, at a location approximately 3 kilometers north of the citycenter. Every year on the 23rd of September the municipal governmentstages a cultural event to wait for the moment when the sun reachesits culmination point at 12 (noon). Any object placed on the line thenwill not produce any shadow. Usually many guests come to share theexperience, including tourists from abroad.

Right: The Equator monumentat Khatulistiwa Street.Pontianak, West Kalimantan.

Opposite: EquatorCulmination Point/Celebrationat 12:00 Noon 23rd Marchand 23rd September.Pontianak, West Kalimantan.

7

FOTO SINGLE

8

Fujamara , JL. Gajahmada Komp.Gajahmada Mall Lt. 3.Gajahmada, JL. Teuku Umar KompPontianak Mall Blok A Tel. 766526,7 6 6 5 8 0GalaherangJl MT Haryono (Komp GORPangsuma) Tel. 734801Istana GarudaKomp. Hotel Garuda, JL.Pahlawan No. 40 Tel. 736890Kentucky Fried Chicken, JL.Gajahmada No. 54 A-B Tel. 741895; JL.Gajahmada Komp Gajahmada Mall Lt. ITel. 769015, JL. Tanjungpura KomRamayana Mall Lt I Tel. 736405Legenda , JL. Pattimura No. 23-25 Tel.7 3 9 2 6 0MahoniKomp. Hotel Merpati, JL. ImamBonjol No. 111 Tel. 745841Mouth, JL. Gajahmada Komp. GajahmadaMall Lt 1 Tel. 740818Mutiara , JL. Gajahmada Tel. 765881PanoramaKomp. Hotel Kartika, JL.Rahadi Osman Tel. 734401Pizza HutKomp. Gajahmada Mall Tel.7 6 2 4 4 1Pondok Kakap, JL. Ismail Marzuki No. 33-A Tel. 733606Pujamara , JL. Gajahmada KompGajahmada mall Lt. III Tel. 743200,7 4 4 0 0 0Restoran Amerika, JL. H. Agus SalimNo.114 Tel. 734119Restoran Hotel Orien , JL. TanjungpuraNo. 45 Tel. 731353,732650,736162Samudera, JL. Gajahmada Sampingyayasan Bhakti Suci Tel. 741361Sari Bento, JL. A Yani Komp. MuseumKalbar Tel. 760797Satria Wangi, JL. Nusa Indah II No. 11Tel. 737961Sea Food Kapuas, Komp. Hotel kapuas,JL. Gajahmada No. 889 Tel. 736122Siantan Indah, Komp. Wisma SiantanIndah, JL. Puring Siantan Tel.883607Star, JL. Gajahmada No. 166 Lt.I I Tel. 740661Texas Chicken, JL. A Yani Komp MegaMall Blok BG No. 11 Tel. 761316, JL.Jend. Urip Komp. Matahari Mall Lt. II Tel.730323, JL. Tanjungpura KompRamayana Mall Lt III No. 2 Tel. 736237Aneka Rasa , JL. Merdeka No. 414Arema, JL. Nusa Indah I Blok B No. 57Ayam Goreng Remaja, JL. TanjungpuraNo. 444-AAyam Panas 29, JL. Imam Bonjol 72, JL.Pattimura No. 224Ayam Sugeban, JL. Teuku Umar No. 59-B Bakmi Mega, JL. A Yani Komp. MegaMall AA 3/5

Tourists Information

LUXURY HOTELS

Grand Mahkota Hotel, JL. Sidas No.8Tel. (0561) 736022Kapuas Hotel , JL. Gajahmada No. 889Tel. 736122Santika Hotel , JL. Diponegoro No. 46Tel. 733777

MID RANGE HOTELS

Kini Hotel, JL. Nusa Indah III Tel.7 3 2 2 2 3Peony Hotel, JL. Gajahmada No. 86-86ATel. 732878Kartika Hotel , JL. Rahadi Osman Tel.7 3 4 4 0 1Merpati Hotel, JL. Imam Bonjol No. 111Tel. 745481, 766988Garuda Hotel, JL. Pahlawan No. 40 Tel.7 3 6 8 9 0Gajahmada Hotel , JL. Gajahmada No.177-183 Tel. 761598

BUDGET HOTELS

Ateng House Transit , JL. GajahmadaNo. 201 Tel. 732683Queen Inn Hotel, JL. Gajahmada No.141-143 Tel. 767232Surya Hotel, JL. Sidas No. 11-A Tel.734337, 761524Rahayu Hotel , JL. Merdeka No. 551 Tel.736143, 733719Orien Hotel, JL. Tanjungpura 45 Tel.7 3 1 3 5 3 , 7 3 2 6 5 0Sentral Hotel , JL. HOS Cokroaminoto232 Tel. 737444Khatulistiwa Hotel, JL. Diponegoro No.56 Tel. 736793Pontianak Raya City Hotel , JL. PakKasih No. 44 Tel. 732495, 732496Wisma Nusantara, JL. WR Suprapto Tel.766188, 736181Kapuas Dharma Hotel, JL. Imam BonjolNo. 89 Tel. 766669Kapuas Permai (Cottage), JL. ImamBonjol Tel. 736122Flamboyan Hotel , JL. Pahlawan Gg.Hidayah No.9Tel. 734945Wisma Patria , JL. HOS Cokroaminoto497 Tel. 736063Wijaya Kusuma Hotel , JL. KaptenMarsan No. 51 Tel. 732547Siantan Indah Hotel, JL. Khatulistiwa Tel.883607, 883044Hotel 2000, JL. Gajahmada No. 84 Tel.7 3 5 0 6 2

Pelangi Hotel, JL. KHW Hasyim No. 227Tel. 731477Wisma Hortensia, JL. Jend. Urip No. 4Tel. 734277Muslim Hotel, JL. Imam Bonjol, Gg.Martapura Baru Tel. 733461Agung Utama Hotel , JL. KomyosSudarso, Komp. Terminal Nipah KunimgTel. 778178

TOUR AND TRAVEL

Anggie Namora T & T, JL. GajahmadaNo. 227 Tel. 730324Antya T&T, JL. Teuku Umar No. 62 Tel.733688, 762059, 741994Aria Wisata Jaya, JL. Gajahmada No. 3Tel .577868Ateng Tour, JL. Gajahmada Tel. 732683Ceria Gemilang Utama T&T, JL. NusaIndah II Blok CA No. 42 Tel. 765898CK Jaya Tour, JL. KHA Dahlan No. 28-BTel. 577885, 760238Delta City T & T, JL. A Yani I, Komp RukoCentra Bisnis Blok A/19Tel. 765228Jawa Holiday T&T, JL. Nusa Indah BlokB No. 62 Tel. 734595Kalutama T&T , JL. Sisingamangaraja No.2Y Tel. 734214,736105Mega Travel, JL. Perdana AA/12 A Tel.7 6 1 1 2 2Mega Utama Wisata, JL. TanjungpuraNo. 292 C Tel. 732117,740432Panorama Anugrah Pratama, JL.Diponegoro No. 149 Tel. 739483,7 0 7 1 8 2 4Setia Sarana T&T , JL. HOS CokroaminotoNo.278A Tel. 734488Yokita Wisata Nusantara, JL. KHADahlan No.42 Tel. 730926

RESTAURANTS

A & W, JL. A Yani Komp. Mega Mall Tel.7 6 1 3 3 8; JL. Jend Urip Mall Matahari Tel. 731225California Fried Chicken, JL.Gajahmada Depan Mall Gajahmada Tel.730215; JL. Jend Urip Komp Matahari MallLt 1 Tel. 730092Cazasuki, JL. Nusa Indah III RT 3 RW 4Cita Rasa, JL. KH Agus Salim No.108-112 Tel. 736355Corina , JL. Tanjungpura No. 124 Tel.7 3 4 4 8 6Dunkin Donuts, JL. A Yani Komp MegaMall A 7-8 Tel.Fajar, JL. Veteran No. 9 Tel. 749454

9

Barito, JL. HRA Rahman Gg. GunungSahari RT003/005Bayur Maninjau, JL. Pak Kasih No. 12Beringin, Komp. Khatulistiwa Plaza Lt. 1No. 36/39, JL. Diponegoro No. 113, JL.Diponegoro No. 151Do & Mi, JL. Pattimura No. 213Etek, JL. Putri Daranante RT 003/014Food Express , JL. Tanjungpura Komp.Ramayana MallIstana Buah, JL. Gajahmada No. 148Kedai Beringin, JL. Jend A. YaniSamping, JL. PH Husin IKeponjen, JL. Merdeka No. 370Megakon, JL. Sutoyo Komp. Asrama HajiMelda, JL. Tanjungpura No. 12Moro Seneng Blitar, JL. Adi SuciptoR T 0 3 / 0 4Nasi Akwang , JL. Pahlawan No. 238Nusa Indah, JL. Nusa Indah III No. 98Padang Indah, JL. Komyos Sudarso No.1 0 .Padang Raya, JL. Pak Kasih No.16Padang 39, JL. Gajahmada No. 1Rasa Sayang, JL. Pahlawan No. 32Restoran Padang, JL. Gusti SitutMahmud Rt 2/11Sakato, JL. Slt Abdurrachman No. 1Sakato Baru, JL. Prof. M. Yamin No. 47Salido, JL. Sultan Abdurrachman No. 58Saliro Roso, JL. Veteran No. 102.Seribu Dinar , JL. Teuku Umar No. 1. ,JL. Waltermonginsidi No. 19-A.Siang Malam, JL. Prof M Yamin Gg. BaruRT 6/26Simpang Tigo , JL. Jend. Urip No. 35.Warteg Lestari, JL. Sultan AbdurrachmanNo. 38.

SOUVENIR / ART SHOP

Dekranas, JL. Sultan Syahrir No. 3 Tel.7 3 2 6 1 0Lenny Art Shop, JL. Nusa Indah III D-19Rika Art Shop, Jl Nusa Indah III D-18Romeo Art Shop, JL. Nusa Indah ITriSakti, JL. Nusa Indah IFariz Art Shop, JL. Nusa Indah IFazalally , JL. Tanjungpura No. 59Ahmadali , JL. TanjungpuraKoperasi Kerta, JL. Adi SuciptoKeramik Kali Indah, JL. Adi SuciptoTrees Flower & Souvenier Shop, JL.D iponegoro

SHOPPING

A. Yani Mega Mall, JL. A. YaniMatahari Mall, JL. Jend. Urip SumoharjoGajahmada Mall , JL. GajahmadaRamayana Dept. Store, JL. Tanjungpura

Tourists InformationHaji Laruntung Amc, JL. DiponegoroNo. 163PT Gemilang Perdana Sejati, JL.Diponegoro 19 Tel. 734470PT Gapuramas Perkasa , JL.Tanjungpura No. 20 Tel. 738235Garuda Kita Perkasa, JL. Gusti SitutMahmud No. 233Surya Mandiri Eka Jaya, JL.Tanjungpura No.18

CAR RENTAL

Anas Taxi Tel. 763258Antya Transport, JL. Teuku Umar 62 Tel.733688, 741994,762059Ardha Transport, JL. KH Hasyim Anshari,Perum III Tanjung Hulu Tel. 7011039Mitra Taxi, JL. Adi Sucipto No. 129 Tel.766321, 582846Pachira Transport, JL. Dr. Sutomo Komp.Ruko Lido B 5-6 Tel. 768953,6587527Prima Taxi Tel. 711540Qika Express Taxi, JL. Budi Karya No.128 Tel. 730653Rahadi Transport Tel. 737344Rizky Taxi, JL. Parit H. Husin II Komp.Ruko Fajar Permai AAI No.1 Tel. 7070943Silver Taxi, JL. Parit H. Husin II Komp.Bali Mas 3 B-11 Tel.Sinatria Transport, JL. Imam Bonjol Gg.Tanjungsari kiri No. 36 Tel. 747211Vini Taxi, JL. KHA Dahlan No. 36 Tel.7 6 7 3 3 5

Conversion Chart

From To Multiply By

Fee t M e t e r s 0 . 3 0 4 8Mill imeters Inches 0 . 0 3 9 4M e t e r s Yards 1 . 0 9 3 6M e t e r s Fee t 3 . 2 8 1Kilometers Miles 0 . 6 2 1 4Hectares acres 2 . 4 7 1Gallons Li te r s 3 . 7 8 5Kilograms Pounds 2 . 2 0 5O u n c e Gram 28.349527

Ligo Mitra Supermarket, JL. GajahmadaGaruda Mitra Supermarket, JL. HRAR a h m a nMitra Anda Dept Store, JL. HasanuddinMitra Mart Dept Store, JL. HRA RahmanKhatulistiwa Plaza , JL. DiponegoroHarum Manis Pasar Swalayan, JL.D iponegoro

BANKS

Bank Indonesia , JL. Rahadi UsmanTel .734018Bank Negara Indonesia 46, JL. RahadiUsman Tel. 732096Bank Kalbar, JL. Rahadi UsmanTe l .732148 ,734713Bank Central Asia, JL. Rahadi UsmanTel. 732692,734509Bank Rakyat Indonesia, JL. Barito Tel.7 3 4 1 6 0 , 7 3 4 0 6 9Bank Mandiri, JL. Rahadi Usman, JL.Diponegoro, JL. SidasLippo Bank, JL. Rahadi UsmanBank Internasional Indonesia , JL.Tanjungpura

MONEY CHANGER

PT. Safari Tanjungpura Raya, JL.Tanjungpura No. 12 Tel. 732940PT Zamrud Putra Sejahtera, JL. NusaIndah I Blok AA No. 4 Tel. 738396PT Dempo Jaya Sakti, JL. TanjungpuraTel. 734632CV Dian Semesta , JL. Diponegoro No.14 Tel. 732492PT Crystal Jaya Abadi, JL. Nusa IndahII Blok A No. 11

13

HISTORY

OF PUTUSSIBAU

Kapuas Hulu at a GlanceKapuas Hulu at a GlanceKapuas Hulu at a GlanceKapuas Hulu at a GlanceKapuas Hulu at a Glance

Kapuas Hulu at a Glance

Putussibau was establishedby L. C. Westenenk on June1st 1895 by a decree ofResiden WesterafdeelingVan Borneo and signed byS. W. Tromp, whose officewas in Pontianak. At thattime Putussibau had onlyten houses belonging toMelayu people and threefloating houses belonging toChinese people, but it wasselected as the seat of thegovernment of KapuasHulu because it is closer tothe Mahakam watershed inEastern Borneo than othersettlements in the area.

The District of Kapuas Hulu is one of 11 districts and municipalitieswithin the Province of West Kalimantan in Indonesia. As one of the

integral parts of the Republic of Indonesia, Kapuas Hulu is an autonomous government, except forvarious functions that are vested to the authority of the central government. It has its own legislativebody elected through general election, and local yudicative institutions that fall under central governmentcontrol.

Putussibau is the seat of the Bupati (Head of the District) of KapuasHulu. The Head of the District is elected through general election heldonce every five years and stays in office until the next election.

Above: Longboats arewaiting near the Lanting(floating house) for a trip onthe Kapuas River. Putussibau,Heart of Borneo.

Left: Sunset behindPutussibau’s bridge,Putussibau, Heart of Borneo.

14

PUTUSSIBAU

TRADITIONAL MARKET

The traditional marketin Putussibau was notbuilt by the govern-ment following a par-ticular plan or design.Instead it grew naturallywhen people from sur-rounding areas neededa place to sell variouscommodities pro-duced in differentways, such as agricul-ture, gardening, andfishing. In this marketwe shall get a glimpseof biodiversity in vari-ous habitats in the areasuch as wild fruits, for-est mushrooms, deerand boar meat, and vari-ous fish species.


In order to carry out his mission the Head of the District is assisted bya number of government departments and offices whose heads areappointed by him.

Above: Vegetablestall at Putussibau’straditional market.Putussibau, Heart ofBorneo.

Right and Below left:Special fish rarelyencountered outsideof Putussibau.Traditional market,Putussibau, Heart ofBorneo.

Below right: Acolorful variety ofvegetables fruits andmushrooms…Traditional market,Putussibau, Heart ofBorneo.

15

The BKNP (Indonesia)and the LanjakEntimau Wildlife Sanc-tuary (Malaysia) to-gether form a continu-ous trans-boundaryconservation area sinceSeptember 5th 1995.The DSNP is theworld’s most completehabitat for freshwaterfishes and a temporaryrefuge for migratorybirds. It has been nomi-nated a World HeritageSite (Ramsar site), andis the reservoir for60% of the fresh waterdemand of WestKalimantan. BKNP(800 ha) and DSNP (132ha) are important forthe wellbeing of thecommunities living intheir vicinity.

MEGADIVERSITY AREA


Kapuas Hulu is situated at the easternmost section of West Kalimantan,where the Kapuas River springs from. Therefore, Kapuas Hulu has avery strategic role as the life support system for the entire provincedownriver. The district territory covers 29,842 Km² or 20.33% of thearea of West Kalimantan. A total of 1,686,318 ha or 56.51% of the areais allocated aprotected forest and conservation area.

In Kapuas Hulu there are two large and important national parks,totaling 932,000 ha (55.27% of the protection and conservation area inKapuas Hulu):

a. Betung Kerihun National Park (BKNP), which constitutesthe remaining tropical timber habitat in the Sunda plate. It isbelieved to be one of the most important parts of the globalrespiratory system.

b. Danau Sentarum National Park (DSNP), which representsthe most complete habitat for fresh water fishes in theworld. The UNESCO convention has declared DSNPas a wetland conservation area (Ramsar site).

Left: Flying over the tropicalrainforest is a uniqueexperience. Difficult to guessthat a burst of wildlife thrivesright under the canopy.Betung Kerihun NationalPark, Heart of Borneo.

16Kapuas Hulu at a Glance

Above left: A fishing scene on DanauSentarum National Park (DNSP). KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Above right: Tapah, the biggest freshwater fishthat can be found on Borneo. Nanga EmbalohEstuary, Heart of Borneo.

Below: Woman preparing smoked fish at theside of Danau Sentarum National Park(DNSP), Lubuk Liuk Temporary Village.Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

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SPECIAL OUTFIT

West Kalimantan annu-ally receives 4000 mmof rain and has 188rainy days per year, thedaily temperatureranges from 29.9°C to31.05°C and the aver-age humidity amountsto 80%. If you comefor trekking and hik-ing, prepare youself bybuying mineral waterand insect repellent,wearing a thin cottonlong sleeve shirt andlong trousers insteadof shorts. Apart fromthe heat you shouldexpect to be wel-comed by mosquitoes,leeches, and all kindsof insects.


Climate

In general Kapuas Hulu belongs to the tropical weather system, anddaily temperatures fluctuate between 29.9 oC and 31.05oC, with a daytimeaverage of 29 oC. The precipitation is relatively high between 4000 to4,727 mm annually and an average of 180-184 rainy days a year. Suchweather conditions often cause floods during the rainy season and draughtsin the dry season. As a result, road building and repair is difficult duringthe rainy season and river transport is problematic during the dry season.

PeopleThe majority of the population of Kapuas Hulu are Dayaks andMelayus. The ethnical composition is 49% Dayaks and 51%Melayus.

Above: Rain can fall atan impressive pace,causing the streams andrivers inside the forest toswell rapidly. Putussibau,Kapuas Hulu District,Heart of Borneo.

Left and below: Rowingcontest at IndependenceDay celebrations on theKapuas River.Putussibau, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart ofBorneo.

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The inhabitants ofPutussibau are des-cendants of a self sufficientcommunity. For decadesthis town had been isolatedfrom the rest of theprovince, except forBandongs (houseboats)that visited this place oncea month. Today thetransport situation in thearea is much better, withdaily busses and a regularairplane connection,although the roadconditions may turn frombad to worse during therainy season. Reliance onriver transport is very high;almost every family owns apaddling boat, speedboator longboat, ranging fromas small as 5 HP to 40 HPoutboard engines.

COMMUNITYTRANSPORT PROFILE


All and opposite: Very oftenthe river offers the mostsuitable transport means forlocal communities. KapuasHulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

21

Heavy rain during therainy season maycause flooding, on theother hand droughtmay set in during thedry season (July-Sep-tember). The waterlevel then decreasessignificantly, and trans-portation by largeboats is not possible.Sandy river banks areexposed, where chil-dren and youngpeople can play soc-cer and women washclothes and fetch wa-ter in buckets to bringthem back to thehouse.


DRY WEATHERPHENOMENON

Opposite and all: Dry seasonin Putussibau. Young and oldenjoy the temporary beachand shallow waters.Putussibau, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

22

The Dayak communities inBKNP and DSNPrepresent 3 of 4 types: (1)hunter gatherers (Punan &Bukat); (2) Shiftingcultivators in dryland andon mountain slopes (Iban &Kantu); (3) Shiftingcultivators in dryland andwetland, living in longhouseswith strict socialstratifications (Tamam-baloh and Kayan); and (4)Shifting cultivators indryland and wetland, livingin longhouses, the society isa mix between socialstratification and egali-tarianism, and they practicesecondary burial (notrepresentative for BKNP &DSNP).

DAYAK TIPOLOGY


Dayak

Dayak is a collective term introduced by outsiders in 1757 for variousethnic groups in Kalimantan or Borneo. Even though, in reality localcommunities name themselves based on similarities of language andlocations, such as rivers, hills, mountains and other environmentalmarks (autonym). Based on various studies conducted within andaround BKNP and on reviews of literature, the communities living inthis area are classified into three of four typologies (Punan and Bukat,Iban and Kantu, Tamambaloh and Kayan). Punan typology isrepresented by a number of subgroups namely Punan Hovongan,Hovorit, and Hovo’ung. These subgroups live at the Bungan, Bulit,and Langau rivers. Another subgroup, Kereho, lives around the Bungan,Kapuas, Langau and Keriau rivers, and the Bukat tribe lives at theKapuas, Mendalam and Sibau rivers. The Ibans live at the Embaloh

Top: Taman women producingbead handycraft for traditionaldresses. Bali Gundi Long HouseSibau Watershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Above: Taman women gatheringin a longhouse. Bali Gundi LongHouse Sibau Watershed, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Left: An old Bukat womanprepares a rattan basket. NangaHovat, Mendalam WatershedKapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

23

According to severalsources, Melayu people areclose relatives of the Dayakpeople. Before Islam cameto Indonesia, the religion ofboth Dayak and Melayuwere Animism and Hin-duism. In daily life Melayuand Dayak maintain a goodand close relation. TheMelayu feel comfortablewithin Dayak settlementsand so do the Dayak withinMelayu settlements.

MELAYU HISTORY


River and the Kantus at the Sibau River, the Tamambalohs at theEmbaloh River, the Kayans and Tamans at the Mendalam River.

Melayu

Even though numerous studies have been conducted on the origin ofthe Melayu population in West Kalimantan, complete agreement isstill difficult to achieve. On principle there are two opinions about thismatter, the first one says that the first group of Melayu came from thenorth (central Asia) since 3000 BC, and the second one believes thatthe Melayu population has existed in Nusantara long before thatperiod. According to several accounts there are similarities betweenthe Malay population in Malaysia and Indonesia, particularly betweenMalays in Kuala Lumpur and Malays in Sumatra.

Melayu people of the past have achieved a relatively high civilization.Such achievement could only be attained after centuries of developmentand modification. The Melayu population in Kapuas Hulu usuallylives close to the river, because most of the daily activities areconducted in the river or next to it, for example bathing, washing,fishing, transportation, and others. Most of the houses are built usingvarious types of wood and the architecture is a specifically Melayuone. The basic farming consists of cultivation of rice, vegetables andcash crops, fishing by using traditional tools such as the pukat (floating

Above left: Melayu villagebuilt on the waters of theSentarum Lake. Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Above right: Couple intraditional Melayu dress.Kapuas Hulu District, Heartof Borneo.

24

The population ofKapuas Hulu in 2006was 203,000 people or6.8 people per km2,distributed into 23sub-districts and 144villages. Ethnic varietyis quite high. Withinthe Dayak communitynot less than 20 sub-ethnics are charac-terized by distinctattributes, and withinthe Melayu populationdifferent dialects,customs and traditionscan also be identified.

POPULATION

DISTRIBUTION


net), jala (casting net), bubu (fish trap), and pancing (fish hook) andkeeping animals such as chicken, goats and cows.

In every Melayu settlement there is a surau (small daily prayerhouse), or a small mesjid (mosque) where daily prayers as well asthe Friday prayer can be held. Melayu life is wrapped neatly in thespirit of Islam as a religion and way of life. Melayu women areusually wearing a baju kurung (long collarless dress) and a kerudung(headscarf) following the Islamic way of covering certain parts of thebody. Malay men can wear whatever they like, as long as it is decentand clean. However, on special occasions they wear a ceremonialdress called teluk belanga (long sleeve shirt) and a folded sarongaround the waist.

Left: Melayu housing onriver front along KapuasRiver. Kapuas Hulu District,Heart of Borneo.

25

Muslims constitute51% of the population,embraced by Melayusand a small percentageof the Dayak popula-tion. In the past Islamicteaching was pro-moted by a number ofregional kingdomssuch as Selimbau,Jongkong, Bunut,Suhaid, and Silat.


ISLAMReligion

In Kapuas Hulu, similar to other places in Indonesia, there are fourmajor religions, namely Islam, Christianity, Buddhism, and Hinduism.Aside from these religions many people believe in supernatural powersand Animism.

IslamIslam came to Indonesia from Gujarat, India, in the 15th century.Nearly 89% of the Indonesian population are Muslim. Islam in WestKalimantan is not only limited to the Melayu population, other ethnicgroups such as Chinese, Dayak, Pakistani and people of other ethnicorigins also practice this religion. In Kapuas Hulu 51% of the popula-tion are Muslims. The majority of them are Melayus and a smallpercentage is Dayak and other ethnic groups. A number of ancientkingdoms such as Selimbau, Jongkong, Bunut, Piasak, Suhaid andSilat encouraged the teaching of Islam to their subjects, and becauseof their effort Islam flourished in the interior region.

Below: Mosque in KampungJati, seen from the KapuasRiver. Kapuas Hulu District,Heart of Borneo.

The Dayak onstitute 49%of the total population inKapuas Hulu and nearly100% of Christian peopleare Dayaks, and smallpercentage consisted ofJavanese, Chinese, Batak,and other ethnic groups.


CHRISTIAN

DISTRIBUTION

Christianity

The expansion of Christianity to Indonesia was parallel to the advanceof imperialism by European countries. The Portuguese came to Indonesiain 1510, the Dutch in 1640 and the English in 1785. In the beginningChristianity was taught by missionaries, assisted by expatriates whoworked in education and health, destined to communities in the interiorregion. Usually they built schools and clinics in strategic locations toreach several settlements. Today most of the leaders in Christianity arelocal communities.

Left: Catholic Church builtin the local style. Padua,Mendalam River, KapuasHulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Below: Catholic ceremony atthe church. Padua,Mendalam River, KapuasHulu District, Heart ofBorneo.


Buddhism came toIndonesia and WestKalimantan in the 19thcentury, brought by agroup of immigrants frommainland China. Theycame to Borneo becausethey were attracted by theinformation that gold andprecious minerals werefound here. So, the firstgroup of Chinese migrantsworked in gold miningsowned by a Britishcompany. The majority oftheir descendents sti l lpractice Buddhism. Mostof them are involved inbusiness and the industrysector today.

BUDHISM HISTORY

IN BORNEO

In Kapuas Hulu Hinduismis practiced by less than 2%of the population, and mostof them are people from Baliwho came through thetransmigration programsponsored by theIndonesian governmentsince 1970.

FROM BALI

Budhism

Bhuddhists are much less in number compared to Muslims andChristians. It is easy to make out Buddhist temples as they arebuilt in Chinese settlements in urban areas and within the businesssection of towns and cities. The homes of Buddhists are also easyto identify, since they usually have a special place for worship intheir houses or yards.

Hinduism

Indian traders introduced Hinduism long before Muslim tradersbrought Islam to Indonesia. In ancient times Hinduism was thestate religion of various kingdoms that existed in Indonesia. Infact, large kingdoms that took over Islam were previously centersfor Hindu teaching. The grandeur of Hindu religion can still bewitnessed in Bali or the Island of Gods.

Top: Budhists lightingcandles in the Vihara.Putussibau, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Above: Vihara in the marketneighborhood of Putussibau,Kapuas Hulu District, Heartof Borneo.

28

Contribution of religiousfestivals to the localeconomy: (1) Islam: in-creased consumption ofchickens during fastingmonth; goats and cows forsacrifices at “Idul Adha”;increased demand of newdresses for “Idul Fitri” and“Idul Adha”; and redistri-bution of income towardsthe needy in the forms ofdonations (zakat) andFitrah; (2) Among the Chi-nese: Collection of fundsthrough the barongsai per-formance; distribution ofred packets containingmoney(ang paw), and invit-ing guests in open houseparties; and (3) For all reli-gions: increased expendi-ture for special kinds offood, drinks, clothes andtravels; visiting and forgiv-ing each other takes placealso between believers ofdifferent religions.


ADHA CELEBRATION

Festivals

Kapuas Hulu is rich in festivals either based on religion or based onseasonal activities of the population.

Islamic Celebration

In Islam there are two great days that are commemorated every year,the Fitri Celebration and the Adha Celebration. The first one is celebratedin the end of the fasting month Ramadan, while the other marks theday when Muslims throughout the world gather during the pilgrimagein Arofah Field. During both holidays people wear nice clothessymbolizing rebirth of humanity.

During the Fitri Celebaration people recite praise to Allah and theprophet Muhammad the night before Ramadan ends. When the morningcomes men and women go to the mosque or to an open field to praytogether. People shake hands and forgive each other for mistakesthey made in the past. Every family sets their house in the bestappearance and serves meals or snacks to guests. Rich families anddignitaries usually stage an open house celebaration, where everyonecan come even without a formal invitation.

The Adha Celebration is related to a story of a great sacrifice theprophet made, coinciding in time with the annual pilgrimage (hajj) toMecca. Muslims from all over the world then perform various

Below: Muslim men andwomen pray together duringthe Idul Fitri Celebration.Putussibau, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

29

FOTO


ceremonies and pray. In general the procession is similar to the Fitri Celebration, although there is oneunique feature: the sacrifice of an animal by individual Muslims who can afford to buy one. Theceremony symbolizes sacrifice of individual people to God, and the meat is distributed among theneedy.

Above: Sacrifice of a cowduring the Adha Celebration.Putussibau, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Right: Distribution of meat tothe poor during the AdhaCelebration. Putussibau,Kapuas Hulu District, Heartof Borneo.

30

FOTO


Chinese Festival

The greatest celebration among the Chinese is the New Year Celebration conducted in reference tothe Chinese Calender. During this celebration Chinese people put on their best dress and their housesare groomed to the best. Chinese characters symbolizing happiness, prosperity and longevity arewritten on red paper and pasted on front doors. Red packets, or ang paw, containing money in evennumbers are distributed among the guests, particularly among the children. A family starts thecelebration with a dinner party and then proceeds to visiting relatives in a friendly atmosphere.

Right: Chinese Barongsaiattraction during one of theChinese celebrations.Putussibau, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

31Kapuas Hulu at a Glance

Christmas Festival

As common everywhere else, Christmas is celebrated be every Christian in Kapuas Hulu. Theystart with an evening prayer and then visit relatives and friends wearing their best attires. Christiansclean their house and decorate it with Christian symbols. Every house prepares nice food and drinksand every guest is free to select which one he/she likes.. Usually the celebration lasts three to fivedays, from December 23rd to 27th every year. For Dayak people who embraced Christianity thiscelebration is also regarded as a community celebration.

Above: Christmas Celebrationin the church of Padua. Padua,Mendalam River, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Right: Christmas procession inPutussibau. Putussibau, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

32

About 90% of the popula-tion of Kapuas Hulu is de-pendent on exploitation ofnatural resources and onearning a living in close rela-tion to the rivers. Dayakcommunities usually per-form post-harvest celebra-tions under different namesand at different times of theyear: (1) Dange, Kayan inPadua and Tanjung Durian(Mendalam River), May 1st

to 5th; (2) Pamelo Beo and NikeBenih , Benua Martinus(Embaloh River) June 1st to10th; (3) Taman, Bukat, andPunan perform the celebra-tion from June to Septem-ber.

ANNUAL

POST-HARVEST

CELEBRATION


Harvest Festival

As an agrarian community, most of the Dayak in Kapuas Hulucelebrate the harvest festival. The ceremony is dedicated to thankGod for a good harvest in the previous year and to pray for a goodone in the following year. The celebration lasts two to three daysbefore the final ritual.

The ritual is a medium for delivering offerings to their ancestors. Inthis ritual Dayak people usually wear complete traditional dresseslike those worn by their forefathers in accordance with their ethnicgroup or sub-group. After the offering they perform traditional dances,play traditional games, and prepare various traditional kinds of foodand drinks made from the harvest of their croft. During these festivalsvisitors are allowed to participate, and nearby kampongs orsettlements are usually invited.

Below: Harvest Festival welcomes ceremony in Bali Gundi Longhouse. BaliGundi, Sibau watershed, Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Opposite: Harvest Festival in Sungai Sedik. Lanjak Sub District, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

34

Several support facili-ties are available fortourists who visitPutussibau: dailyaircrafts, hotels, busses,restaurants, cafés, pubs& bars. In order toavoid unnecessary de-lay the flight- andbustickets should bebooked three days inadvance.

SUPPORT FACILITIES

FOR TOURISTS

Facilities

Facilities for tourists visiting Putussibau are quite sufficient. Lodging houses and hotels, beginningfrom standard to medium, are available. Besides, restaurants and cafés or coffee houses andentertainment facilites can be found easily. If you need information about tourist sites or attractions youcan visit the local Tourism Department, contact tour operators or hire a tourist guide to take youwherever you wish to go. Land transportation in Putussibau consists of minibusses and motorcyclesthat can be rented either with or without a driver. If you need to change your currency to lndonesianRupiah or vice versa, it is recommended to do that in the capital of the province (Pontianak) as thebank in Putussibau may not be able to help you. Today Western Union can assist you in Putussibauif you have to withdraw cash urgently from your account.


Above: Hotel Sanjayareception in Putussibau City.Putussibau, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Left and opposite: MupaLake, near Putussibau.Kapuas Hulu District, Heartof Borneo.

36

In term of tourists visitin 2002 West KalimantanProvince is 13th of allprovinces in Indonesia(16.32%), and KapuasHulu benefit from it inproviding accommo-dation, catering, travelservice, transportation,tourist guide, souvenir,handicraft, and enter-tainment.

TOURISM VISIT


Kapuas Hulu as a Conservation District

Kapuas Hulu has been declared a conservation district. According toStatute Number 5, year 1990, the conservation of biological resourcesmeans wise utilization of natural resources aiming to assuresustainability and diversity.

Considering this definition, Kapuas Hulu will support developmentinvolving natural resources cautiously and avoid any action thatcompromises their sustainability. The creation of a conservation districtis a brilliant idea that promotes innovation and creativity to save theenvironment. Utilization of forest resources through mechanisms ofsocial forestry is hailed as one form of conservation.Below: Young friends of

nature undertake a LongMarch to celebrate the EarthDay. Putussibau, KapuasHulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Opposite: Aerial view of theKapuas River. Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

37Facilities

39

HOW TO GET THERE

Kapuas Hulu Mid-Section Area

Kapuas HuluKapuas HuluKapuas HuluKapuas HuluKapuas HuluMid-Section AreaMid-Section AreaMid-Section AreaMid-Section AreaMid-Section Area

Left: Longboat trip on theKapuas River. Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Overview of the Middle Section Area

Since 1995 the watersheds of Mendalam and Sibau have beenknown to researchers and domestic tourists as well as to thosecoming from other countries. In those years comprehensive researchon biodiversity and communities living around the forest area hasbeen conducted by research institutions in West Kalimantan and byinstitutions from other provinces and countries.

From such studies emerges knowledge about the rich biodiversity ofthe tropical virgin forests in the upper region and of diverse culturaltraditions in the middle and lower regions of both big rivers. In viewof such richness the National Park Management and the TourismBoard of Kapuas Hulu recommend that both regions should bedeveloped as one tourist destination, This should take place based onnature and culture such as long-houses, educational and expeditiontours or novelty seeking, development of home stays to gain closeinteraction with local people and get an insight into the traditionalknowledge and wisdom of local communities of each ethnic group.

To reach these locationsfrom the seat of theDistrict Government ofKapuas Hulu poses nogreat problem. Along theMendalam river coursethere is a regular riverboat that travels untilthe mid section, wherethe community of theKayan is found. Thecommunity can also bevisited by motorcyclealthough travelers mustcross two rivers toreach the last settlementin the upper region. Ineach of these crossingsthe local communitieshave taken the initiativeto provide means oftransportation atreasonable prices.

40Kapuas Hulu Mid-Section Area

Top: Old woman puts coffee beans to dry.Tanjung Karang, Mendalam watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Above left: Farmer harvesting coffee inSungai Ting. Mendalam watershed, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Above right: Men collecting natural rubber inTanjung Karang. Mendalam watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Left: Family trip on small rowing boats inNanga Hovat. Mendalam watershed, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Opposite: Old woman preparing vegetablesfor the Putussibau market. Ariung Mendalam.Mendalam watershed, Kapuas Hulu District,Heart of Borneo.

Interesting features of the Mendalam River

In general the residents at the Mendalam River are Melayusin the lower section; Taman Kayan and Suruk in the mid-section and Bukat in the upper section of the Mendalam.

In particular Dayak communities, i.e. Taman, Kayan, andBukat, show that until today there is interaction with anddependence on their natural environment. Such dependenceis shown by their traditional wisdom and traditionalknowledge which continues to guide their life until now.

43

ACCESIBILITIES AND

INFRASTRUCTURE

Kapuas Hulu Mid-Section Area

Opposite:Silent wildlife spotting onthe Hovat River. Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas Hulu District,Heart of Borneo.

What can be found at the Sibau River

In general the residents at the Sibau River belong to the Taman,Kantu’, and Bukat people. With each one of these ethnic groups onecan witness colorful culture and arts being revealed and a daily lifethat is unique to each ethnic group. .In the Sibau lowland foresttourists can find orangutans and two crocodile species (Crocodilussp. and Tomistoma sp.). Orangutans can also be found in anotherarea, namely in the Embaloh rivershed. Crocodiles are not foundanywhere else in Kapuas Hulu, except the ones living in lakes.

To reach the Sibausettlement from the seat ofthe District Governmentof Kapuas Hulu poses noproblem since these areasare connected by a pavedroad that can support 4-wheel drives. However, thisroad leads so far only to themiddle part of thewatershed, i.e. until thevillage Tanjung Lasa inSibau Hulu. For travellingfurther, you can rent alongboat operated by localpeople. The operators areskilled and familiar withstandard procedures ofproviding a good service tocustomers, using theirknowledge aboutdangerous parts of the rivercourse to avoid accidentsduring the trip. They arealso capable of assistingtourists in findinginteresting places to visitand the right time to gothere. Additionally theyhave high skil ls inconstructing temporaryshelters for wildlifeobservation, and knowhow to light a fire evenduring heavy rain.

All: Team spirit counts when it comesto conquer wild water rapids. UpperSibau River, Kapuas Hulu District,Heart of Borneo.


FRUIT DIVERSITY

Opposite all and below all: Thejungle is the best supermarketin the world. Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Fruit Season

Thanks to its rich biodiversity, the tropical rain forest in the Mendalamand Sibau watershed has its own attraction, particularly during the fruitseason. Almost all of the edible fruit species begin to bloom and bearfruits during November and December every year.

If you visit these places during those times you will see a breathtakingpanorama, beginning from the settlement sites and continuing into thelush green forest. On both sides of your track you are welcomed byendless colors of fruits and blossoms from various species of orchids,epiphytes and ensurai, and also tengkawang trees that already begin tobloom.

The trip will be more rewarding when various species of edible fruittrees - such as durian, lengkeng, jungle manggis, jungle belimbing,salak and others - are ready to be harvested. In several locations in thefruit gardens people watch and wait for the fruits to fall and constructmakeshift shelters from where they can protect their garden from uninvitedguests. One household can collect a boatful of various fruits per night,that they sell in nearby towns and cities.

You also are allowed to stop by these sites to take some fruits or justobserve people’s activities at the sites that are usually owned by thecommunity. The communal rule says whoever finds the fruits first canfreely collect them.

Physically there are manyinteresting feature thatcan be watched duringthe fruiting season.Various kinds of fruitsdisplay different colorssuch as yellow, red, green,orange, black, and purple.Those fruits also displaydifferent color and shapecombinations such assmall yellow, round green,ell ipse orange, roundpurple, and large andthorny fruits. Some fruitseven mimic animal forms.Their tastes are numerousincluding sweet, sour, abit bitter, and some fruitshas strong aroma butprovide variety of localtastes that are hard toforger, and some of thosefruits can be preserved inthe form of durian taffyand sweet and sour Keranjifruits

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JEPIN DANCE

Mendalam Watershed

MendalamWatersheds

Top: The elegant Jepin dancewill seduce many visitors.Sambus, Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Left: Locals play the tar forvarious ceremonies. Sambus,Mendalam watershed, KapuasHulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Opposite: Man performingsilat, a traditional Melayutraditional martial art.Sambus, Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

The village Sambus

When visiting the Mendalam watershed, the first settlement youcome by is inhabited by Melayus and is called Nanga Sambus. Theterm Melayu is used for the original population of Kapuas Hulu whotook on Islam as their religion. To reach this settlement one can usea 40 HP outboard longboat, it takes only 15 minutes from Putussibau.An alternative is to use a land vehicle which takes only ten minutes,and cross a river once on a ferry owned by local people.

Characteristics of the Melayu

According to community leaders and other historical accounts, part ofthe Melayu community is of Dayak origin. Before Islam reached theinland population, the formal religion of various kingdoms in KapuasHulu was Hinduism, only later, during the reign of the 12th King of theSelimbau Kingdom, Islam was taken on and flourished. During this

Jepin has many variants.Each Melayu communityhas its own Jepin dances,therefore different Jepinsare found in Selimbau,Seberuang, Semitau,Sejiram, Suhaid, Silat, etc.Jepin dances aredifferentiated furtheraccording to theirfunction. So, there is aJepin for entertainment, aJepin for festivals, andanother Jepin for ritualpurposes.

47Mendalam Watershed

48

TAR

Mendalam Watershed

Left: Locals play the tar forvarious ceremonies. Sambus,Mendalam watershed, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

period, mixed marriages between the royal families who practiced Islam and the Dayak populationwho practiced the pagan religion, took place. Their offspring as well as later generations calledthemselves Melayu, and this habit continues until now.Social life and physical environment of the Melayu population in Sambus have developed into astable and orderly social system, and their environment is kept clean and well managed. Becauseof their religion (Islam) their art and culture developed identical features as the Islamic culture ingeneral.

For example, dances and music performed during religious festivals bear a resemblance to Islamictraditions found in Arabic nations. They play a percussion instrument called Tar and a string instrumentcall Gambus or guitar, and their dance is dynamic and joyful. One of these dances called Jepin isvery popular among the Melayu population.

Both of these instruments can be played in combination or separately, depending on the type of Jepinto be played. There are many kinds of Jepin, and keen onlookers can easily differentiate one fromanother. However, for people who are not yet familiar with it, it is not easy to see the difference.

The Tar is a percussionmusical instrument madeof a round wooden frameand animal hide,commonly of goats orcows. The animal hide isfreed from fat and tissueand laced with salt andacid to get rid of its smell.Then it is left in the sunto dry. The wood framemust be light and producea strong resonance whenthe skin is stroken by thepalm of the hand. Toproduce different pitchesand sounds, the Tars aremade in different sizes.Besides the shallow andone sided Tar, there isalso an elongated Tar withboth ends provided withanimal hide and strickenin combination.

49

THE BEST QUALITY

DURIAN TAFFY

Mendalam Watershed

Right: A woman preparingdurian taffy in her cauldron.Sambus, Mendalam watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Daily Activities

The daily life of the Melayu people living in the lower part of the river is different from that of the Dayakpopulation living in the middle and upper parts of the Mendalam. Their main sustenance today isderived from intensive farming. In general, they keep rubber, cocoa, coffee, and banana plantations,and also tend vegetable gardens.

Durian Taffy

An abundance of fruits is available during the fruit season,and particularly durian often saturates the markets. When thathappens the price drops drastically, so that at one point it willno longer be worthwhile to take it to the market.

To avoid wasting durian fruits,the Dayak usually collect thefruit’s soft part, put it into acontainer and let it ferment.The product is calledtempoyak. The Melayus goone step further, besidesmaking tempoyak they alsoproduce sweet durian taffy.

The durian taffy - when processed properly - can be kept for manymonths and is sent to regional markets as a commercial item. Thisproduct is also very popular among travelers who visit this area. TheMelayus’ durian taffy has become a source of alternative income forthe families.[

Silat Martial Art

Silat (a form of martial art) is taught to youngsters from an early age.The original purpose is to protect the village from intruders. Today silatis also regarded a traditional sport. Usually after conducting eveningprayers and reciting the Qur’an, youngsters form a group, select atraining site and practice silat under the supervision of a trainer.

In many communitiesdurian taffy is made ofdurian fruits that cannot besold fresh, for examplebecause part of the fruit isspoiled or eaten by animals.But in Sambus theyproduce taffy from gooddurian fruits. They areforced to do that when thedurian harvest produceslarge quantities of fruits andsaturates the market.Instead of separating theseeds from the tissue, inSambus the seeds are keptwith the tissue to retain theoriginal durian taste. Theprocess of making duriantaffy begins with collectingfire wood and selectingdurian fruits. Then thedurian tissue is mixed withflour and sugar and cookedin an iron wok until the colorturns brown. To improvethe taste small amounts ofseasoning and aroma areadded.

50

BETANG

Mendalam Watershed

All and opposite: Longhousesare the perfect playground forkids. These Longhouses can beup to 8-9 meters high. Rice andlivestock can be stored underthe living area. AriungMendalam Longhouse.Mendalam watershed, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

The village Semangkok

After only 20 minutes of traveling in a 40 HP long-boat from Sambus you will arrive at a settlementof Taman people at the village of Semangkok. You can also make the trip using a motor cycle,although you have to cross the Mendalam River by boat and leave your vehicle behind.

Taman people usually live in longhouses, and in Semangkok there are three longhouses. Each of thelonghouses accommodates 12-16 families and forms an administrative unit below the villagegovernment. This arrangement is unique of this village and is not to be found anywhere else.

The longhouse (betang) inSemangkok is made of ironwood (indon.: belian,Eusideroxylon zwageri) .According to the residents,the longhouse has beenrelocated three times, thelast relocation taking placein 1925. At that time thelonghouse had two floorsand 16 apartments. Eachapartment was 4m wide and12m long. It was built onstrong tall poles 7m abovethe ground. The structuralparts are tied together usingrattan stems and the roofshingles are made of ironwood. The longhouse is stillintact up till now, and theBupati (Head of theDistrict) of Kapuas Huluhas declared the longhousea cultural heritage thatmust be guarded for itsoriginality.

52

THE INTERIOR OF

A BETANG

Mendalam Watershed

Taman People

The Taman are a community of Dayaks, who since a long time manage family-owned plantationsand a combination of dry and wet rice farming. They usually make rice plots in lowland areas(tana paya) and on drawdown river banks (tana disapui danum). They efficiently practiceregular site-rotation. Wetland area is commonly planted for two successive seasons beforemoving to another site.

Taman people recognize strict social stratifications, beginning with the royal family, then middleclass and lower class. Nowadays the rigidity of the classification is somewhat slackened,particularly between the middle class and the lower class. In the upper class the tendency isstill quite strong. The royal family still holds their traditional position as well as the position as theHead of the Village. Therefore, their outlook and opinion still dominate the village leadership anddecision making, particularly regarding traditional law.

The importance of the royal leader is noticeable in relation with the practice of site-rotation. Localwisdom and local knowledge that are preserved and kept by Tumenggung (adat leaders) putthem in a position of making final approval on when and where people should make their riceplots.

The spatial distribution ofrooms or apartments withina Betang reflects the uniquesystem and stratification ofthe community who lives init. The front part of theBetang is for drying rice andother products, the middlepart is for public activitiesand the apartments and theattic space are used forcooking, sleeping and familygathering. The division ofapartments reflects thedivision of the social arenabetween public utility andindividual need. Thepersonality of most Dayaksub-groups are symbolizedby the spatial division ofBetang houses which aredesigned to serve bothindividual or personal needsalong with the collectiveneeds of the community.


Opposite: In such a way, the safety of childrenis guaranteed. Ariung Mendalam Longhouse.Mendalam watershed, Kapuas Hulu District,Heart of Borneo.

Left: The increasing weight of bronze earringsshapes the particular ears of these old women.Younger generations tend to leave this traditionbehind. Sibau Hulu Longhouse. Sibauwatershed, Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Below left: Old women in traditional dresschewing tobacco. Ariung MendalamLonghouse. Mendalam watershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Below right: Bringing back products from thefield (shifting cultivation or ladang). AriungMendalam Longhouse. Mendalam watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

54

POTONG UMPANG

Mendalam Watershed

Art and Cultural Performance

When you plan to make a formal visit to a longhouse, you will begreeted with a welcoming ceremony in accordance with a Tamantradition called “potong umpang”. The ceremony is performed at thevillage gate or at the main door of the longhouse. The stage is decoratedwith coconut leaves and a long wood stick (umpang) is laid at waistheight across the gate or door. As the guest you are asked to cut thestick using a traditional machete called Mandau. This ceremony isusually performed by three to six individuals who have specific rolesand functions: two people (male and female) who welcome the guest,two girls or young women who offer a traditional drink, and one or twomen who attend the umpang cutting. The procession is accompanied byall the members of the longhouse praying that the guest will bring goodfortune to the longhouse.

The philosophical meaning of the umpang cutting is to find out theintention and objective of the visit, and this can be identified by lookingat the result of the cutting. If the cut looks good and does not split, theintention of the guest is also good and may bring good fortune to thelonghouse.

During the era of headhunting, visits from onecommunity to anotherwere rare. If someone forsome reason visited another longhouse he hadto be tested first for hissincerity and purposes bycutting the umpang. Thehost community believesthat if the cut is good,the intention of the guestis also good; otherwise,if the cut is not clear andsplits, the intention islikewise. No-one willhave a problem inproducing a nice cut withtheir mandau or machete,except when they areuneasy or nervousbecause of their badintention.

All: Umpang cutting,traditional food and musicduring a Taman welcomeceremony. Ariung MendalamLonghouse. Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.


OFFERING DRINKDURING UMPANG

CUTTING

A traditional drink isprepared during theumpang cutting. Once theguest fails to completethe job, e.g. because hismandau is caught orpinned by the umpang, hewill have to drink thebeverage offered by thehost and pour some tohis mandau and theumpang. If he failes againhe has to drink again andso forth. If there aremore than one guest, allof them must bear thesame penalty.

All: Some particular drinkingrituals accompany the umpangcutting. Ariung MendalamLonghouse. Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

56

TAMAN DANCES

Mendalam Watershed

Dances and Musical Instruments

The Taman have various dances that are designed for specificoccasions, for example a specific dance for the big adat festival, awelcoming dance, and a dance for entertainment after the work at therice field is over.

During the big adat festival the dancer must wear the complete adatdress, starting from a head cover, scarf, necklace to a mandau andother accessories. In this occasion every member of the communitywears his/her best dress, while on daily life they wear normal clothes.

The traditional musical instrument of the Taman are gongs of differentsizes in accordance with their functions. A Gong is made from brassand formed into a shallow round container with a protruding strikingpoint at the center of its base. Usually three such small Gongs areplaced on a holding frame in succession, forming a sound sequencerunning from high to low. Placed in the hand of a trained artist thesesimple instruments are capable of producing a beautiful sound of musicand to put the audience into a magic spell.

Taman people have anumber of dances that areperformed:1. Daria’ Soksoak –

performed by eight menand eight women whotake position on eithersides of the guests’ pass.

2. Manyialo – performedby four women towelcome guests duringthe adat festival.

3. Daria’ Suno’- performedby a couple of a manand a woman at the endof gawai or during awedding ceremony.

4. Daria’ mantat tu sulek –performed by one manand two women toentertain the guestsduring a weddingceremony.

5. Daria’ Balien –performed by a numberof men and women forhealing purposes. Thiscommunity recognizethree Balien dances:Balien Yangladang,Yangsape andTutuladang.

6. Seni Silat – performed bymen during weddingsand festivals to welcomeguests. An other variantof this dance is a formof matial arts thatconsists of several kinds:Kuntau, Bungalang,P e c a h e m p a t ,Lepakekor, Trompan,Damdam, Tumbungand Bungapedang.

7. Burung Bau –performed by one mandepicting skil ls andagility of the Tamanmen especially during afestival.

8. Tapok mok/coconutshell – performed bytwo male dancersduring a festival as aform of entertainmentand interaction.

Above: Taman Dances to welcome visitors at the Putussibauairport. Putussibau, Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Opposite all: Men play the gong while women dance in theTaman traditional dress. Ariung Mendalam Longhouse,Mendalam watershed and Baligundi longhouse. SibauWatershed, Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

58

FOOD

Mendalam Watershed

Traditional Food

In general the materials for food and beverages are taken from rice fields(ladang) and home gardens. They are richly blended with traditionalspices, which are also collected from the surrounding forest. Severaldishes can only be found on special occasions, for example duringtraditional ceremonies. Some of these dishes are prerequisites and theirpreparation requires traditional processes.

As a farming community,the Taman collect theirfood material from thefarms, such as glutinousrice and other plants.Their traditional drink isproduced by fermentinglocal rice and glutinousrice. When preparedproperly, the product canbe stored up to five years,and the longer it is keptthe better it tastes andthe alcohol content alsoincreases.

All: Guests are invited to tastetraditional food in the locallonghouse. Ariung MendalamLonghouse. Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Opposite all: Palm wine iscollected directly from the tree.A handy platform allows thecollectors to complete this jobsmoothly. Ariung MendalamLonghouse. Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.


NGASAPTraditional Drinks

Various local beverages consumed by the interior population can alsobe found here such as the saguer which is Nira juice (sugar palm,Arenga pinnata) blended with Raru bark (Vatica sp.). The production ofsaguer is a trade of a limited number of people who really know thesapping technique. This technique includes selecting a suitable palmtree, knocking, splinting, and twisting the flower stem to excite the flowof nira. Then every morning a thin section of the flower stem is cut usinga sharp knife to reach a fresh part of the stem where the liquid can flowout freely. The fluid is collected by installing a bucket under the stem. Toproduce the drink, a fair amount of Raru bark is added to the solution.

Besides saguer the community also produces Beram Tumpi whichis made by fermenting glutinous rice mixed with traditional yeast. Ahighly acidic fermentation product of the same ingredient is also used tomake Ciu or Arak (rice wine) through a traditional refining method.

Ngasap is a tradition ofdrinking saguer from thepalm tree (arenga pinnata)instead of taking the drinkhome. This habit startedwhen young men climbedpalm trees and drank thejuice from the collectingcontainer. Later this habitdeveloped into a popularpast time, and then asimple platform was builtto accommodate three tofour people. This activitybegins in the lateafternoon after returningfrom the ladang (rice field)and lasts until earlyevening. During this timethey chat and socializeamong themselves.

60

This particular kind ofhandicraft shows thepresence of tradingbetween the Tamanand distant cultures.The beads are notproduced by the localcommunity butintroduced by Tamantravellers afterreturning home fromjourneys to othercommunities. Usuallythey brought backbeads as a gift to theirwives and families intheir village. Then, asa sign of appreciation,their wives and sisterswove various usefuland beautifulproducts with thesebeads, using specificpatterns and colorcombinations as amanifestation ofTaman aestheticism.Their range alsoincludes themanufacture oftraditional dressesworn by Taman priestsand common peoplealike during festivalsand other importantcultural events.

BEAD HANDICRAFT

Mendalam Watershed

Left: An old Taman womanprepares a rattan basket.Ariung Mendalam, KapuasHulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Opposite above left: OldDutch coins are used asaccessories for costumes.Baligundi longhouse. SibauWatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Opposite: Locals wearingtraditional costumes for aTaman welcome ceremony.Ariung Baligundi longhouse.Sibau Watershed, KapuasHulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Handicraft

Another characteristic of the Taman people is their handicrafts. Theyare unique in various ways, such as patterns, motives and shapes.The handicraft is usually manufactured during free time betweennumerous farming-related activities. The handicraft was meant to beused in farming and not for sale. The Taman bead handicraft clearlydiffers from those of other ethnic groups. They are very skilled inmaking bead handicraft and seem to possess endless variations intheir products. Today their products have become sought after itemsin handicraft shops.


Various bead items commonly sold as souvenirs include necklaces, bracelets, purses, wallets andhand phone cases. Larger items made at least partly with beads include traditional dresses and otheraccessories such as scarfs (selendang), and head covers (salaben). Besides bead handicrafts theyalso manufacture items using natural materials, e.g. baskets, purses, etc.

62

In the old daysmedical facilities andpersonnel was notavailable in theinterior region. Inorder to cope withillness they deve-loped the skill oftraditional healing.Even today, whenmodern medicalservices are withintheir reach, many ofthem continue toturn to traditionalhealers when theyhave health pro-blems.

BALIEN

Mendalam Watershed

Left: Traditional Tamanhealing (Balien). AriungMendalam, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Traditional Healing

Traditional healing is practiced by almost every Dayak community inthe Mendalam and Sibau watersheds. The method used differs fromone community to the other. Some groups use music and dances tocall upon spirits, while others use only chanting and musicalinstruments. Sometimes only male healers are involved, but in othergroups both sexes take part in the healing.

The Taman sub-ethnic groups call the healing ceremony Balian, and itis conducted using a collection of rocks as media to lift ailments fromthe patients. The rocks are rubbed against the skin where the patientfeels the pain. Before the actual healing is performed, an assistant ofthe Balian ceremony calls a prayer and prepares an offering(pamindara). This is meant to invite the spirits of the ancestors to expelthe bad spirit that is dwelling in the patient’s body. Such a healingprocess usually lasts from two to three hours, depending on the typeof illness to be cured.

63

STAGES IN SHIFTING

CULTIVATION

Mendalam Watershed

Above: Dead bodies arestored in these huts, beforethey are buried. AriungMendalam, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Left: Traditional slash andburn agriculture. AriungMendalam, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Kulambu

When you travel upstream usinga 40 HP longboat from Sambus,you will see a group of small hutson your left after only 15 minutes,forming a line along the river bank.These huts are a traditionalgraveyard of Taman people called“Kulambu”. Taman people do notbury the dead; instead they putthe corpse in a wooden coffincalled Lungun and place the coffinin those huts. One hut can accommodate several lungun of those who had a close family relation.This burial method is still followed by Taman people today, although those who took over a differentreligion bury the dead following the way of their religion.

Shifting Cultivation

The interpretation of traditional shifting cultivation practiced by thepeople here provides rich information for testing new methodologiesof explaining the mystery of the interior culture. Various aspects oflocal practices are inviting e.g. how they select land for cultivation,methods of land preparation, wise decision making concerning landsize, and production according to family needs. Also very interestingis the specifics of labor allocation, techniques in human resourceutilization, and the unique mystical ceremonies related to variousstages of land cultivation from land initiation until the harvest of yields.

1. Confirmation ofland status andboundaries

2. Shrub slashing3. Tree felling4. Two steps of

burning5. Construction of

field hut6. Stick planting and

vegetable planting7. Weeding8. Harvesting

64

HISTORY OF

THE KAYAAN

Mendalam Watershed

Above: Kayaan women intraditional dress. Lung Miting,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Below left: These wooden chairsare usually property of thenobility. Lung Miting, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Below right: Young Kayaanwarrior. Lung Miting, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

The Kayan People

On an upriver trip in a 40 HP longboat you will arrive at a number of Kayan settlements within 40minutes. Kayan communities form a dominant ethnic group in the Mendalam watershed. The area ofthe Kayan is quite large and includes seven villages, namely Long Miting, Tanjung Karang, TelukTelaga, Padua, Tanjumg Kuda, Tanjung Durian, and Datah Diaan.

Characteristics of the Kayan

The Kayan still adhere to a system of social stratification that dividesthe community into two classes, the Hipi (royal family) and Lalii(commoners). In the past Kayan people used to recognize a threelevel community: Besides the royal family and the commoners therewas a third class, i.e. slaves captured during mengayau (headhunting) expeditions. But with the introduction of new religions andeducation in the early 1900s, the three class society has beenweakened and in particular the slave system is now abolished.

Originally the Kayanmigrated to their presentsettlements from the highplateau of Apo Kayan inEast Kalimantan eightgenerations ago. Theystarted to move northtowards Sarawak and thencontinued going west alongthe border, to finally changetheir direction headingsouth towards the upperKapuas River and itstributaries. Before settlingin Mendalam, the Kayansettled down at the Kapuas,Sibau, Sambus, and onesub-group - Umaa’ Suling -once came to Ulak Pauk inthe downstream of theEmbaloh River. The Kayancommunity is made up ofthree sub-groups, Umaa’Aging, Umaa’ Suling, andUmaa’ Pagung. The Umaa’once settled down at theKapuas River and lived sideby side with the Aoheng andSemukung. Kayan migrantshave a habit of giving Kayannames to places where theysettle down. They use thesenames as boundary markersand as a means to trace theirmovement since they leftApo Kayan.

65

ISLAM IN THE

KAYAAN SOCIETY

Mendalam Watershed

Top and above: Rice harvesting on anon-irrigated field. Tanjung Karang,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Left: Rice seeds are separated from thehusks with the feet. Tanjung Karang,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Since a long time ago the occupation of most Kayanpeople is dryland farming and wetland farming. Since1906 they began to plant rubber trees introduced by theDutch colonial government. The Kayan locate their ricefields in lowland (tana paya) areas as well as on drawdownriver banks (tana disapui danumm). Kayan men are skillfulin cutting tree branches and twigs, cutting grass, andconducting secondary burning in wetland areas. Diligentand land efficient planting are general traits of Kayanfarmers.

Kayan farmers already practiced principles of land rotationin wetland areas. Sometimes these lands are plantedtwice before moving to other sites - no wonder Kayan andTaman people sometimes become rice suppliers for othercommunities during an unsuccessful harvest, and regularlysupply rice to Punan people who need it.

The Kayan became Muslimssince about the same timethey took over the Catholicreligion in the beginning ofthe 20th century. One of themost influencing KayanMuslims is Haji YahyaHigaang Ubung who hasmade the pilgrimage (hajj) toMecca twice, one timetogether with Hamka, thefamous ‘ulama (islamic jurist)from West Sumatera. Thefollowers of the two religionsin Tanjung Karang l ivepeacefully together, sincethey in fact belong to thesame extended family. Kayanpeople observe their intragroup relation closely. Whenthere is a festival in one Kayancommunity, representativesfrom far away Kayan groupssend their representatives.For example when Kayanstage the Kayan festival inMendalam, representativesof Kayan groups of otherplaces, including EastKalimantan and Malaysia,come to join the celebration.They use every availablemeans of transport,including rowing boats andeven on foot.

66

ADAT HOUSE

ORAL TRADITION

Mendalam Watershed

Above: Kayaan hold Adat houses for theirceremonies. Tanjung Karang, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Right: Kayaan musician playing sape. LungMiting, Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Opposite Above: A kid’s smile under a hudo mask.Lung Miting, Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Opposite below: Kayan harvesting celebration.Padua, Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Cultural Performances at the villages Tanjung Karang,Padua and Datah Diaan

Nowadays the Kayan already abandon the use of longhouses. Changetowards living in individual family houses is partly influenced by thepresence of new religions and formal education since the beginning ofthe 20th century. In 1972 the last longhouse, belonging to the Sulinggroup in Tanjung Karang, was demolished.

Today the condition of the Kayan settlements is relatively similar tothe conditions downriver. In general, Kayan settlements are foundalong Mendalam river sides, and their daily life is closely related tothe natural surrounding, as can be understood from their culturalperformance and arts, particularly during the Dange festival. All of theornaments and adat tools are made from natural material found aroundtheir settlement, such as various leaves, tree bark, and a special kindof wood that is used to support the adat performance.

As a substitute for thelonghouse and in order topreserve their tradition forthe benefit of futuregenerations, the Kayanbuilt a new adat house whichis used as a place forcommunal activities. Thisincludes a place for womento weave handicraft, adatmeeting and adatceremonies which in thepast were conducted in thelonghouse.

A storyteller narrates an oralepic about a legendaryhero, named Lawe. This epicpoem is the oldest in theKayan Dayak tradition andwas documented andtranslated into Indonesianin 1995.The Lawe poem becomesunique as a he recital, alongwith telling the past historyof the Kayan people, setsup the rhythm of oralmusic, urging listeners todance withoutaccompaniment and singthe poem in unison. Underthe command of therhythmic beat caused by thenarrator knocking a stick,poems are recited in unisonfor three days. Such poemsare sung at specialceremonies, e.g. death,marriage, the moving to anew house, and in theDange ceremony.

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DANGE FESTIVAL

Mendalam Watershed

Dange Festival

The Kayan have a unique culture, more colorful although lesspublicized than that of the Kenyah in East Kalimantan. It’s the uniqueculture of the Kayan Dayak that provides a wonderful tourist attraction.A big cultural event regularly takes place in April and Septemberwhen the sun is in the zenith above the equatorial line at noon. Thisevent is called Dange and has a special meaning for the localpopulation.

Dange is a big festival in conjunction with the Easter Celebration. It isa way to thank God for a good harvest in the recent year. UsuallyDange is conducted in every village (every Kayan sub-ethnic group)and culminates in Great Dange or Unified Dange where all of thevillage delegations gather in one place.

During the Dange festival a completecultural representation, arts, and thetradition of the Kayan are displayed,beginning from adapt dresses for menand women, dances, music and oraltradition, to traditional drinks andtraditional food specific for localcommunities.

Dange festival is a seriesof activities performed inparticular sequence asfollows:- Nyiaan Dayung Tahari

(female dancersperform the openingdance);

- Nevara Uting (Blessingthe offering – leaddancer ushers dancersin to purify the offeringhut);

- Maung (Offering Prayer– festival leader or leaddancer recites a Kayanmagic spell);

- Nerak Uting (Killing ofan animal as anoffering);

- Melaa’(Blessing forchildren andcommunity leaders);

- Neguk Ake Tanaa’(Prayer for location offarming next year)

- Mayaa’ Tirii (Prayerasking for protection);

- Tepuja’Ujaan (Prayerasking for rain);

- Nyinah (Prayer forunity of the entirecommunity);

- Melaa Arung (Blessingfor children);

- Nyesaa avat (Blessingduring baby carrying);

- Sikap (Prayer forsuccess in occupation);

- Purah Bataang Bulit(delivery of offering);

- Ngaping Langat (Prayerfor acceptance ofoffering);

- Pejuu Umaa’Dange(Delivery of offering);

- Dayung Nyinah Pare(Prayer to honor rice);

- Ngaraang HuyungMehaang (Prayer forthe success of Dange);

- Uli’ Wa’ (Closing cere-mony);

- Kesenian (Entertain-ment).

69

KAYAAN DANCES

Mendalam Watershed

Opposite: Kayaan performthe hudo dance as they prayfor fertility before planting.Lung Miting, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

All: Various Kayaan dances,including the Karang Aru (topand middle), Hivar Pevitang(below left}, Kerepga (belowright). Lung Miting, KapuasHulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Culture and Arts

Kayan dances are known for their originality and their symbolicmeaning hidden in their movements. The success of the Kayan inkeeping their culture is supported by the fact that they represent themajority in their region, so that influence from other sub-ethnic groupsis minimal.

Dancing is not merely a medium for enjoyment and entertainment forthe Kayan, instead it symbolizes deeper value and meaning. Severalof the dances derived originally from the social value system andtraditional practices of the population. There is a dance performedduring seed planting in the rice field called Hudo dance. It meant toprotect and salvage the rice plants, and the Kerepga dance is meantto fill the time during the taboo period for seed planting, while theNgenyak dance is performed by women to practice martial arts, etc.

There are several dancescommonly performed byKayan Dancers:- Karang Aru – performedto welcome guests duringgawai or wedding.- Ngenyah – performed by awoman describing howwomen practice matial art orhow they conduct ngayau.- Kerepga – entertainmentdance performed during thetaboo period when peopleare not allowed to go to therice field.- Hivar pevitang – a Kayanwar dance performed by twomen in full war dress, mandau(traditional sword) andshield.- Hudo – performed duringseed planting and meant toward off insect attacs to therice fields.- Kayan Sape (guitar)- unlikethe Sape of other tribes that

70

MANDAU

Mendalam Watershed

All: Kayaan smith preparing aMandau. Lung Miting, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Production of the Mandau (traditional sword)

A sword smith foundry is located at the village Sungai Ting, theforemost downriver settlement belonging to the village Padua. Thislocation can be reached in one hour by boat from Padua. Each Kayansub-ethnic group has unique mandau features of its own. Today it isdifficult to get a Kayan mandau anywhere. Specific characteristics ofthe Kayan mandau can be found in the carving of its holder, case, andthe iron material. These attributes all in all tell stories about the artcharacter and the cultural tradition of the Kayan.

has three strings, the KayanSape has only two strings.One of the characteristics ofthe Kayan mandau thatmakes the difference tomandaus of other ethnicgroups is the symbol of“leeches” engraved on itsholder. This symbol has animportant meaning for theKayan. Leeches areboneless, weak, vulnerable,but elastic and capable ofconsuming animal andhuman blood. If such astrong character is possessedby weapon or human howstrong it can be. Besidesleeches there are severalother symbols on a mandauholder, such as kalung telu ,kalung helat and kalung aso lejo(tiger). The Kayan also havedifferent kinds of mandaus:the Malaat Itang is to be usedin the rice field and in theown garden, the MalaatBukaan as an ornament oraccessory.


Above: The Mandau is the Kayaan’smain weapon and holds an importantplace in Kayans’ culture andtraditions. Lung Miting, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Right all: Leeches are carved on theMandau’s handle and hulster. LungMiting, Kapuas Hulu District, Heartof Borneo.


HUDO MASK

Wood Carving

Kayan carving expertise is not only limited to the Mandau alone, they are also experts in woodcarving. Usually the front-top of the roofs of Kayan houses is decorated with wood carvings of tigersand dogs (aso lejo’). Inside their houses they also carve human forms with a menacing face that theycall Takang carving. Both of these carvings were originally retrieved from a dream that is meant toprotect the Kayan people from catastrophes.

Both types of carvings are dominating ornaments in Kayan households. They are used as wallornaments, house ornaments, shield and mask ornaments.

Hudo masks are one of theKayan engravings that arepopular at handicraftmarkets. In Kapuas Huluonly Kayans manufacturethis mask. The Hudo mask isworn during the Hudodance, performed by 20dancers during seedplanting, and is meant toward off insect attacks totheir rice fields. There areseveral kinds of Hudo masksin Kayan communities, suchas Hudo Urung Boo (LongNosed Hudo), Hudo Pako(pakis) and Hudo Bavi (PigHudo)


KAYAN TATTOO

Opposite above: Artistcarving a small shield thatwill be sold as souvenir. .Tanjung Karang, KapuasHulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Opposite below: The pelaiwood used for Hudo masksis very light and malleable. .Tanjung Karang, KapuasHulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Left: According to Kayaanculture, particularly womenwill wear tattoos. . TanjungKarang, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Tattoo Art

Traditional knowledge of tattoo making is widespread among theKayan, although tattoos are only worn by selected people, particularlywomen. Wearing a tattoo is meant to show that the person is comingof age as a woman. Usually, as the person gets older, new tattoosare added at different parts of the body, e.g. at the age of 14 a tattoo isworn at the toe tips, at the age of 17 from hand to elbow, and from 17on at the thigh.

Other tattoos signifiy a person’s status in the social system. Tattoosfor commoners are different from those for the royal families.

Kayan people have severalkinds of tattoos worn bythe noble, such as TatoParuh Enggang, TajakLejo’, Tenamin Bavungand Pusung Tuva. Tattoosfor commoners are: TadakTube, Tadak Belatat, andTadak Bukak.

75

THE BUKAT PEOPLE

Mendalam Watershed

Opposite: Young girl wearing a hat made of bark wood in Nanga Hovat, Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Above: Playing children on the Mendalam River, in the surrounding of the NangaHovat village. Mendalam watershed, Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Below: Aerial view of Nanga Hovat. Mendalam watershed, Kapuas Hulu District,Heart of Borneo.

The Bukat People

After passing the uppermost Kayan settlement at Tanjung Durian andafter heading upriver 1 hour and 50 minutes, you arrive at the villageNanga Hovat, where a group of Bukat people began to settle in 1968.This settlement forms part of the village of Datah Dian that is inhabitedby Kayans.

According to their story, theBukat came fromTohembelang, a stone cavewhere their ancestors usedto live. This cave still existstoday. When theirpopulation increased, andsago palm and wildlife wereno longer available insufficient numbers tosupport their hunting andgathering lifestyle, they hadto spread out into upperparts of the Kapuastributaries. According tothe Bukat story, theMendalam River was calledBukat River by them. Thename Mendalam as it isknown today is the onegiven by more dominantethnic groups, theKayanand Melayu who settled inthe lower section of theriver. After settling inseveral river tributaries thegroup split and migrated tothe Kapuas and Sibaurivers, and part of thepopulation migrated toEast Kalimantan andMalaysia. Since that timethey have been living intheir present settlement.


TRADITIONAL

CLOTHING

Left: Young Bukat hunters. NangaHovat, Mendalam watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Below: Bukat people show a strongaffection for their dogs. NangaHovat, Mendalam watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Opposite above: Man from theBukat ethnic, playing sape. NangaHovat, Mendalam watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Opposite left: This girls dress ismade of bark wood and decoratedwith argus pheasant ornaments.Nanga Hovat, Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas Hulu District,Heart of Borneo.

Characteristics of the Bukat

The Bukat do not live in longhouses, as this mode of settlement is notsuitable for their lifestyle of hunting wildlife and gathering non-woodforest products. They frequently move from one place to the other,following animals and food resources available in the forest.

Their lifestyle is not comparable with other Dayak groups whospecialized in rice planting and gardening. The Bukat are individualists,pragmatists, and opportunists in a positive sense. Their environmentalcondition required them to adopt this attitude.

Male clothing consisted ofloin cloth and a vest madeof tree bark combined withanimal hide. Femaleclothing consisted of onepiece of cloth coveringmid-calf to bosom. In theold days the traditionalclothing was worn everyday, but today only duringethnic celebrations andreligious ceremonies.


Right: Young Bukat people still choose atraditional way of life, such as this girl weavinga basket. Nanga Hovat, Mendalam watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.


MAHAP

(PRODUCING SAGO

STARCH)

Left: Starch collection fromsago palm. Bukat people usethe forest as a preciousresource to producematerials such as thesewooden spades. NangaHovat, Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Opposite above: Sago-basedfood can be prepared inmany ways. These man areeating Lut, a sago porridge,with typical pairs of chopsticks fixed together. NangaHovat, Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Mahap (Starch Collecting)

In the past, the production of starch and hunting wildlife in Punan andBukat communities were not activities specifically for men alone,women were just as much involved in these activities. Today, thatthe community stays in permanent settlements, women becomemore involved in rice farming, while men are more inclined to gohunting and to collect non-wood forest products in order to collectcash to buy rice and other daily needs. Although even today thecollecting of Sago starch is a trade for everyone. The process ofproducing Sago starch is quite interesting to watch. All the processes,from the preparation until the final product, are done in the forestwhere Sago palm trees are found.

The process of sagoproduction:- Selection of a ripeSago tree – strike anaxe into the tree andcheck for dryness andthe presence of sagomaterial on the axe;- Cutting down thetree, cut into section,and split in twohalves;- Retrieving the Sagomeat from the treehalves;- Screening (momok)the starch from theSago mass;- Drying the Sagostarch in the sun.

The tools used inSago production:- Atak – traditional axewith elastic handleused for cutting theSago tree;- Malat – machete usedto clear the areaaround the Sago tree;- Baguk – woodenscraper for retrievingthe Sago mass.


FOOD FROM SAGO

Below left: This womantreats the sago mass bystamping on it, and isolatesthe desired concentrate.Nanga Hovat, Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Below right: The sagoconcentrate is cooked toobtain the right texture.Nanga Hovat, Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

The sound caused by the mahap process is a special attraction.Mahap is usually done by five individuals and each of them strikesthe Baguk in order to produce a harmonious sound and rhythm. Froma distance it resembles the sound of musical instruments. Food made from Sago

Starch:- Lut – Sago porridge(especially for babies);- Sogok – Sagodumplings fried inpig’s fat (lanyo);- Isum – Sago mixedwith meat, wrapped inBiru leaves androasted;- Kahavok – Sago putin a bamboo sectionand roasted;- Sekerek – Sago lacedwith salt and roasted.


NGASU

Left: The hunt was successful. Two wildboars have been caught. Nanga Hovat,Mendalam watershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Below: Bukat people hunt with dogs,spears and blow pipes. Nanga Hovat,Mendalam watershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Traditional Hunting (Ngasu)

Traditional hunting prowess is still common among the Bukat.They have extensive knowledge regarding hunting grounds,species of game available and techniques for hunting each type ofgame, forest ecology, and particular flora and fauna. In this regionthere are at least 46 species of wild game. But big mammals arethe prime targets of hunting and almost 80% of game animals arewhiskered wild boars (Sus barbatus).

As commonly the case with a hunting community, the Bukat valuedogs highly. Dogs are not only honored for their role as huntingcompanions, but also as living companions. In daily life dogs aretreated no different than humans. Even when the time comes forthe master to sleep the dog remains at his side.

When a hunterdecides to go huntinghe calls for his dogs,and within only a fewseconds four to sixdogs will be standbyaround him. Whenthe hunter reaches aspot where, accordingto his skill andexperience, a wildanimal might bepresent, he sends hislead dog followed byother dogs to look foranimal foot steps.When the dogs see thetarget animal they startto howl and then thehunter comes to dothe killing.

81

OBOR (TORCH

MAKING)

Mendalam Watershed

Left: Torches are made outof pure biomass from theforest. No fossil fuels areused. Nanga Hovat,Mendalam watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heartof Borneo.

Torch Making

In the past Bukat settlements did not have electric facilities like today. Besides even today theyoften leave the village for a long period of time to tend for their ladangs (rice fields) and to huntfor wild animals. When they were away they had to invent a way to produce light for thenights. For this purpose they use materials offered by their natural environment to maketorches. Using torches is practically much easier than having to look for kerosene to make akerosene lamp or to look for a battery and a flashlight.

For making torches they use the same materials they use for making roofs or mattresses tosleep on when they have to stay in the forest. To start a fire they commonly use resin fromtrees. Resin can otherwise be mixed with gasoline and be used as a seal for the boat.

The material formaking an oborconsists of wildleaves ( l icuala sp),rattan stem, andMeranti resin; evenhornet nests are usedby the Bukat to maketheir torches. Firstthe resin isprocessed into drypowder, thenwrapped in plantleaves and tied with arattan stem. Specialknots are used so theburning torches willnot fall apart.

82

TAJEM (DART)MAKING

Mendalam Watershed

Above: Bukat people master theuse of blow pipes and usepoisonous darts. Nanga Hovat,Mendalam watershed, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Left: Different types of darts areused depending on the size of theprey. Nanga Hovat, Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas Hulu District,Heart of Borneo.

Tajem (dart) Making

When they go hunting individually with or without dogs the Bukatusually use blow pipes and poisoned darts. They produce differenttypes of darts laced with a variety of poison of variable potency,depending on the size and type of animal they intend to catch.

The blow pipe manufacturing begins with selecting a suitable typeand form of wood. The wood is carved into a straight round stickapproximately the size of the blow pipe. It is then tied firmly to astraight pillar to dry the wood and keep the stick straight. When thewood is sufficiently dry, a hole is bored from one end to the otherusing a steel bit of appropriate size. When it is finished, a steel spearis attached to the end of the pipe. The spear bit is used as a visor toaim at the target and to kill the animal when necessary.

The material for makingdart poison comes fromtree barks, leaves, rootsand latex from selectedtree species growing nearBukat settlements. Theconcoction is mixed withpoison taken from frogsand snakes and put intoa bamboo section. Thenthe mixture is heated andthe steam is capturedwith the tip of the darts.The potency of the dartdepends on the mixtureand is adjusted to thetype of animal to be killed.So, there is a dart forbirds, a dart for smallmammals and primates,and a dart for largeanimals.

83

METHOD AND TOOL FOR

TRADITIONAL FISHING

Mendalam Watershed

Right: Bad luck for this Tor fish. Ithas been caught in a stationary net.Nanga Hovat, Mendalamwatershed, Kapuas Hulu District,Heart of Borneo.

Below: Not withstanding theappearances, this spread nets canbe quite heavy. This makes theacrobat performance of thisfisherman on a moving boat evenmore remarkable. Nanga Hovat.

Fishing

Fish are an important and readily available source of protein for all theBukat people. The fishes in the rivers can reach up to 20 kg in weight,and people use an assortment of lines and nets to catch fish fromdiverse and abundant fish populations. Traditional fishing can bedeveloped into a tourist attraction.

Various techniques areemployed to catch themaximum amount of fish.These include hooks,casting nets, stationarynets, traps, bows andarrows, and eventraditional fish poison(Tuba). The selection oftools and techniquesdepends on the riverconditions, and the use ofthese tools in the river canbecome a captivatingadventure to experience.

84

MUSICAL

INSTRUMENT

Mendalam Watershed

Left: Only elderly people can stillplay the satum. Nanga Hovat,Mendalam watershed, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Below: A tabut is a percussioninstrument made of bamboo. NangaHovat, Mendalam watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Opposite all: Variety of Bukatdances, including xxx. NangaHovat, Mendalam watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Art and Culture

Musical Instruments

Musical instruments of the Bukat are made from a type of bamboocalled betung, the namesake of Mount Betung in the national park.Satum, a plucking instrument, is made by separating long pieces ofthe outer skin from the stem of a bamboo segment and fastening themwith wedges. A percussion instrument, tabut, is also made frombetung bamboo which is simply cut into different lengths. Differentstem sizes are used to produce the three tones needed. Besides inthe Bukat community, the Tabut is also used by Tamans.

According to Bukatleaders, most of theBukat musicalinstruments are madefrom bamboo stem. Inthe free time that theyhave several timesduring the ricecultivation, theymanufacture musicalinstruments, dressesand accessories forthe dancers. Thesetools and dresses areneeded primarily forconducting variousceremonies associatedwith the ricecultivation.

85

BUKAT DANCES

Bukat Dances

Bukat dances such as Karang Satum, Isang, and Itelino are related todaily activities of today and the past. Several dances are related torice farming such as Karang Satum and Satum, while Karang Itelinois a welcoming dance during celebrations like a marriage and otheradat ceremonies. Another dance called Karang Iasang or war danceis performed to celebrate the return of Bukat warriors from a Mengayau(head hunting) expedition. Several dances performed by women areinspired by the movement of animals, particularly birds, and areperformed at special occasions.

- Karang Tabut – can beperformed at the rice field,at the boat, or as a formof entertainment andsocialization;- Karang Satum –performed by four dancersas a welcoming danceduring a wedding and adatfestival;- Karang Italino –performed by a group ofmale and female dancersas a welcoming dance forhonorable guests andtourists. It is divided intotwo stages: one at the gateand another one inside thehouse.- Karang Isang –performed by twodancers to welcome Bukatwarriors returning from amengayau (head huntingexpedition). The dancerscarry a basket hung onwooden sticks as a placeto put the skull of thevictim.

87

MENTIBAT TRAIL

PERMANENT PLOT

Mendalam Watershed

Left: A scientist observes theplants in the permanent plot withhis binoculars. Nanga Hovat,Mendalam watershed, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Above: Plants are individuallyidentified and registered in thedatabase. Nanga Hovat,Mendalam watershed, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

The Camp House Mentibat

After you are satisfied with experiencing the unique features of theBukat community in Nanga Hovat, you can continue your journeyto witness the beautiful landscape and biodiversity of flora and faunaoffered by the Betung Kerihun National Park (BKNP) at Mentibat,situated behind the village. This location can be reached from NangaHovat in 45 minutes using a 40 HP long-boat.

At the border between BKNP and the buffer zone around thenational park, there is camp house designed as a research stationand accommodation for visitors. This camp is used as a startingpoint for observing natural attractions such as animal watching, andexploring the flora and the beautiful landscape. Not far from thecamp there is a 1 km trail built by the BKNP for the purpose ofwildlife investigation. A ten-minutes ride upstream there is a researchplot developed by the Indonesia Institute of Science in collaborationwith foreign universities and BKNP.

In the backwater of this river (within BKNP) there are several otherrivers, for example the Mentibat, Jepala, Horongun, Lubang Ajin,Pari and Hotung rivers. The Hotung River is the most potential sitefor developing traditional fishing, because this river possesses a richvariety of fish species. Fishing within the National Park is allowedas long as supervision and regulations regarding the type ofequipment to be used and the location where fishing is allowed(utilization zone) and other rules are observed.

Across the mouth of theMentibat River the BKNPManagement Unit cleared a3 km long trail into thejungle, along whichresearchers can observerepresentatives of flora andfauna of the BKNP. Amongthe flora species that we caninvestigate along this trailare Bengkirai (Shorea leavis),Meranti Merah (WhiteMeranti, Shorea lamellata) ,Kempas (Kompassia excelsa),Kapur (Bornean camphortree, Dryobalanops aromatica),Kayu malam (ebony,Diospyros sp.), blue leavedpalm (Licuala borneensis) ,Perupuk (screw pine,Pandanus sp.) and others.Among the fauna there arethe Babi hutan (Beardedpig, Sus barbatus ) , Kancil(Greater mouse-deer,Tragulus napu) and amongthe primates there isKelampiau (Bornean gib-bon, Hylobates muel le-rii).These animals are notalways present along thistrail , however they leavetracks, for example footsteps, droppings, hairs,feathers, nests etc. Thesecan be used as interestingobjects of interpretation.

In the Mendalam rivershedthere are three investigationplots for flora managed bythe Indonesian Institute ofScience in collaborrationwith the BKNP and theWorld Wide Fund ForNature (WWF). The loca-tion of these plots is nearthe Horongun river, at theMentibat hill, at the end ofthe observation trail behindthe Mentibat camp. Theplots were initiated in 2001and are designed to cal-culate the rate of growth oftrees in tropical forest. Thesize of the plot in eachlocation is 1km x 1km,divided into 100 observationsquares. Observation isconducted once every twoyears, and the last one wasdone in 2005. The conditionof the plots is still intact untiltoday, because access to thesite is quite difficult and it islocated quite far fromhuman settlements.

88

MENDALAM

SALTSPRING

Mendalam Watershed

Above: Several big mammals, such asthis mouse deer, are regular visitors ofthe salt spring. Bukat Trek, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Opposite: The size of this giant leaveplant is impressive. At least twice thesize of these tourists! Bukat Trek,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Salt spring

To witness big animals in their habitat is a rare experience and a unique sensation for visitors. If youwant to watch big mammals, the best place is around a salt spring, i.e. a water hole with a relativelyhigh content of salt compared to its surrounding area. The mineral can either come from chemicalreactions of litter materials or from decomposition of rock materials.

A salt spring is the ideal place for photographing animals directly in their habitat. Animal watching canbe done in the morning and in the afternoon, because during these times the animals usually come todrink.

The salt spring is used especially by large mammals such as Sambar-deer (Cervus unicolor), theBearded pig (Sus barbatus), Common barking deer (Muntiacus muntjak), Greater and Lesser mousedeerr (Tragulus napu and Tragulus javanicus), to satisfy their thirst for liquid and in the same time takebenefit of the rich mineral content. Such events are ideal opportunities for visitors to watch animals intheir natural habitat. In the Mendalam watershed, including its tributaries Mentibat, and Hovat,, thereare no less than 12 salt springs waiting to be visited.

The salt springs in theMendalam river sub-system are widelydistributed in severalplaces throughout theMendalam river and itstributaries. In theMendalam river wefind the salt springsTujai, Halaoi, Hobuno,Halopo, Lingabuluhand Loong. In thetributaries of theMendalam we find thesalt springs BatangPilung, Tesenet, andMobo’.Mobo’, Haloi andLoong are isolated andlocated far frompeople’s settlements,the lack of suchhuman disturbancesincreases theopportunity to watchlarge mammals.

89

HISTORY OF BUKAT

MIGRATION

Mendalam Watershed

The Mendalam-Kapuas Trek

In the past Bukat people used to move from one place to another following game animals and lookingfor Sago palms. One such route was followed by a Bukat group who migrated from the upperMendalam (Nanga Hovat) to the upper Kapuas (Village Metelunai).

The linear distance between these two places is only 20 km, but because the route runs throughmountainous and hilly areas and through thick jungle, it took one full day even for the strongest amongthe Bukat. For tourists and other people the trek can be safely completed in three days.

In this trek you can experience a combination of hiking along small rivers and climbing several hills.Along this route you will be entertained by good views, big trees, fresh water fish, several reptilespecies, birds and you will meet wild large mammals in two salt springs.

At several locations there are natural rest points where you can set up tents. At one location you canset up your tent near a waterfall, and this is where you can also watch large mammals visiting the saltspring nearby every morning and afternoon.

The initial settlementof Bukat people was atTohembelang, a stonecave in the hilly areaof the upper Menda-lam. From there theyspread out into severaltributaries in search offood and wildlife, suchas the Mekoyan,Matavaliu, Holoi,Tavung River andothers. To avoidconfrontation withKayan, Taman andPunan, they movedinto a concentratedsettlement in NangaTemuan, a place at ajunction of the tworivers Mendalam andHakalev. In this site onecan still find relicts ofBukat people, e.g. fruitestates, remains ofhouse poles andabandoned rice fields.


All: The Bukat trek requires the use ofmany of your skills! Bukat Trek, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

93

CHARACTERISTICS

OF THE TAMAN

PEOPLE

Sibau Watershed

Sibau WatershedSibau WatershedSibau WatershedSibau WatershedSibau Watershed

Opposite: Cristal clear water.The source of every kind of life!Let’s preserve it. Bukat Trek,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Below left and right: Differentsteps to prepare rice. First youseparate the grains from thehusk. Then you can mould it topowder. Sibau Watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

The main occupa-tions of the Tamanin upper Sibau aredryland farming,planting rubbertrees, cacao andcoffee. This com-munity has beenfamiliar with theseplants since the1960s, and todaythey are involved intransporting andmarketing thesecommodities as faras Pontianak, thecapital of theprovince, and theneighboring stateof Sarawak, Malay-sia.

The Trip

To reach the Sibau route there are two ways. First, on the river, andsecond on the road, continuing on the river until the upper region.

The route via the river starts from the longboat jetty in the center ofPutussibau. A one-hour journey upstream in a 40 HP longboat is asettlement of Taman and Melayu communities in the village Sibau Hulu.In this location a Taman longhouse is found standing side by side withindividual family houses belonging to Melayu residents.

About 40 minutes after leaving the Sibau Hulu Village you will arrive at a village called TanjungLasa. This village is inhabited by a similar ethnic group with similar characteristics.

Another 20-minutes trip upstream from Tanjung Lasa you arrive at Nanga Potan, the last settlementof Bukat and Kantu’ communities.

The second possibility is via the road. The trip will start from the hotel where you stay, and usinga motorcycle it takes only 20 minutes to reach Sibau Hulu. The majority of the population of thisvillage is Taman, although small populations of Kantu’, Iban and Melayu are also present.

94

HOMESTAY AT

BALIGUNDI

Sibau Watershed

Left: The Baligundi longhouse. Sibau Watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Below: The Baligundi longhouse is surrounded bya spacious garden where crops are grown. SibauWatershed, Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

The homestay pro-gram at the Baligundilonghouse was pro-posed by a localcommunity group in2006. The facilitiesprovided by thehome owner includesa sleeping roomfurnished with a bedand a mattress, andother accessories,three meals a day(breakfast, lunch anddinner), traditionalsnacks, and trans-portation to eco-tourism attractionsites.

The Homestay at Betang Baligundi

Taman people cannot be disassociated from the existence of longhouses.In Sibau Hulu today there are many longhouses where Taman peoplelive. This information is given by other ethnic groups such as the Kayanand Bukat. According to them, the Taman are famous for vehementlydefending the culture of their ancestors.

In Sibau Hulu there is one longhouse called Baligundi. It has 23apartments and measures 150 meter in length. Several apartments inthis longhouse are fitted to accommodate tourists who want to stay at thelonghouse. The families who own these apartments receive additionalincome from the rent of the apartments and from the payment for theservice they provide.

95Sibau Watershed

JUT RIVER ANG

PENGKARAN LEGEND

Top: This 5 meter long crocodile (False gharial, Tomistoma schlegelii)came regularly too close to the inhabitants settlement and was killedfor security reasons. Sibau Watershed, Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Above: You want a lodge with a nice view? Sibau Watershed, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

This village is occupied bythe Bukat Dayak sub-ethnicor specifically the Hovutsub-group of the Bukat.Hovut is the name of abranch of the Sibau River.The Taman Sibau call thisriver Jut River, consisting ofJut Besar and Jut Kecil. It isin the Jut river that peopleoften engage in swift and wildriver sports. For natureloving tourists this site is a45-minute walk from NangaPotan or 10 minutes by boatwith a 40 HP outboardengine. Pengkaran is aformer settlement leftbehind by the Kayan Dayak,situated a short distancefrom Nanga Potan. At thissite we can stil l find asharpening stone, woodensteps, and protectionditches built by the KayanDayak to ward off intrudersduring the Ngayau (headhunting) era. There are alsomany fruit trees at this site,which is quite common inKayan settlements else-where. Pengkaran can bereached in 15 minutes fromNanga Potan on foot.

Nanga Potan Village

From Betang Baligundi in Upper Sibau you can continuethe trip by motorcycle to the Sibau river side at TanjungLasa. From this village you can take a longboat trip for20 minutes to reach the last village in Sibau Hulu,called Nanga Potan.

The local government builds a unit of a guest house inthis village. In this house moderate facilities such astwo bedrooms, a toilet and a sitting room and kitchenare provided. In the future, this house will be developedinto a more suitable accommodation, so tourists whocome to this place can enjoy their visit to this village.

The real purpose the guest house was built for was toprovide tourists who come to join the orangutan trekand the Pengkaran trek with a place to rest and to prepare for the journey ahead.

96Sibau Watershed

97Sibau Watershed

Above: If you are lucky, you might beable to spot one of these friendly OrangUtans hanging in theirfavourite trees. Sibau Watershed, KapuasHulu District, Heart of Borneo.

Left: Daily orang utan diet. SibauWatershed, Kapuas Hulu District, Heartof Borneo.

The Orangutan Trek

Orangutans have been found in Nanga Potan since a long timeago. They roam around adat land belonging to this community.Today a number of local residents have been trained in detectingwhere orangutans can be found and local residents have takenthe initiative to construct a trek for the purpose of observingorangutans. This trek can be done on foot in two to three hours onflat ground. It can then be continued by climbing Mayas Hill,which takes about 30 minutes and returning to the base throughthe Mayas River and the Potan River. Along this trek tourists willfind a number of wild fruit trees, abandoned rice fields and rubberplantations owned by several families in Nanga Potan.

Pangkalan Jabun and the BKNP Trek

Pangkalan Jabun is a place where crocodiles, namely the species Buaya Katak (Crocodilus sp.)and Buaya Sumpit (Tomistoma Schlegeli), lay eggs on the bank of the Sibau River. This site can bereached from Nanga Potan in about 30 minutes by a 40 HP long-boat.

The visitors who stay at the guest house can also prepare a trip to the Betung Kerihun National Park,it takes only about 40 minutes in a 40 HP longboat going upriver until the Menyakan River. TheMenyakan forms a natural boundary between the park and the protected forest.

At several locations there are facilities for trekking prepared by the BKNP for the purpose ofeducational tourism and nature interpretation. This facility is 3 km long and along this trek you will findcommon tropical tree species such as Bengkirai (Shorea leavis), Red Meranti (Shorea lamellata),Kempas (Kompassia excelsa), Kapur (Borneo camphor tree, Dryobalanops aromatica), KayuMalam (ebony, Diospyros sp.), Palem daun biru (Licuala borneensis), Perupuk (screw pine, Pandanussp.) and others.

98Sibau Watershed

Left: Climbing the MountLawit is a rewardingexperience. It allows for apanoramic view on therainforest. Sibau Watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heartof Borneo.

Below: Sambar deer andother large mammals can bespotted around the saltsprings. Sibau Watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heartof Borneo.

Climbing Mount Lawit

Mount Lawit (1770 m) is considered the tallest mountain in West Kalimantan that has been climbed;and it is located in the middle of BKNP. A Ranger Station called Menyakan is built at the upperMenyakan Kecil River to accommodate new climbers when they arrive. To reach the top of MountLawit, climbers must first climb until the end of the Peyang River, then walk along mountain ridges tothe top of Mount Lawit. Climbing time to reach Peyang’s top is three days plus another day climbingfrom Peyang’s top to the top of Mount Lawit. The return trip down Lawit’s slope can be accomplishedin two days, so that the total length of time required for climbing under normal conditions is approximatelysix days.

Saltspring

The salt spring in the Sibau River sub-system isfound before reaching the Menyakan Kecil Riveror a two-hour ride from the junction of Menyakanand Payo’ River. The tourist attraction potential ofthese salt springs can be combined with aphotographic tour to the upper Menyakan Riveror the Jelia rapids which is a three-hour journeyfrom the Menyakan junction.

99Sibau Watershed

FISHING TECHNIQUE

Above: Enjoy the scenicsetting while fishing from alongboat. Sibau Watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

Below: Is catching big fishesyour thing? Sibau Watershed,Kapuas Hulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

In order to besuccessful incatching fish in thisregion you needcertain skills and astrategy. The baitneeds to be maderesembling thematerial fishes eat intheir environment.One of the favoritebaits used by the localfisherman is theKensurai fruit(Dipterocarpus oblongi-folius). This fruit haswings and when theyare attached to thefish hook and dragg-ed slowly underwater, the fish mis-identifies the fruitfor a living animaland swallows it.E x p e r i e n c e dfishermen alwayscome up with newideas of how to trickthe fish.

Traditional Fishing

River cruising in BKNP will be even more interesting if it is combinedwith fishing. The forest that is relatively undisturbed and the rivers thatare relatively healthy support various kinds of Ichtiofauna, includingfreshwater fishes. Almost all the rivers in BKNP possess ideal spotsfor fishing. If we ask the local residents they can give good informationnot only about which rivers or creeks are good for fishing, but also thetypes of fish that commonly live in each of the rivers and about theideal time to catch them. For beginners, there is one particular fishspecies that is easy to catch, i.e. the Baung fish (catfish, Mystusnemurus). The best sites for catching them in the Sibau watershed areat the mouth of Belabi river, in the Greater Menyakan river and in theLesser Menyakan river.

100Biodiversity

101

BIOLOGICAL

ECOSYSTEM

Biodiversity

Biodiversity

Six of the eightforest ecosystemsof the BKNP arefound in the Men-dalam river shed asfollows: Low LandDipterocarp Forest,Alluvial Forest, OldSecondary Forest,Hill DipterocarpForest, Sub-Mon-tane Forest, andMontane Forest.

Opposite: The rainforest is agoldmine for whoever likesbiodiversity. Already seenthose fruits before? SibauWatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Below: Flowers such as thisare enriching the forest withmillions of colors. SibauWatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart of Borneo.

Exotic aspects of the Flowering Season

The part of the BKNP situated in the Mendalam and Sibau watershedscontains one of the most complete biodiversity spots. Some of the speciesfound in this area are newly identified species. As a whole there are noless than 75 species of flora endemic to Borneo, and 14 species arenewly registered in West Kalimantan, including a wild banana and 13palm species.

Besides its richness in the flora composition, BKNP also is a habitat forseven species of primates and 301 species of avifauna (birds). 24 speciesof them are endemic to Borneo. These two watersheds are also rich inherpetofauna (reptiles and amphibians), e.g. there are 51 species ofamphibians, 26 species of lizards, two species of crocodiles, three speciesof fresh water turtles, and 21 species of snakes.

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TIPS FOR ORCHID

WATCHING

Biodiversity

Flowers and fruitsare growing in anyseason in therainforest. Spot theoverwhelming varietyof shapes and colors,as an infinite sourceof inspiration forartists, Sibau andMendelamWatershed, KapuasHulu District, Heartof Borneo.

Splendor of the Flowering Season and Relation to Biodiversity

To witness biodiversity will be easier if done during the floweringseason, i.e. between November and January. The behavior of animalsand plants living in this area is interesting to watch. During the floweringseason several species of primates, birds, and fish are also in theirbreeding season. For example, poisonous marine fish(Epalzeorhynchos kalopterus) will migrate downstream to lay eggs,while the Tapah fish will migrate upstream to lay eggs. After hatching,they move downstream to let their hatchlings develop in deep poolsalong the river course.

This process would not take place if for some reason there was noflower- and fruit season in the forest. The underlying reason is thatduring the fruit season the forest offers abundant supply of food such asthe elipe nut, ensurai flower, wild jambu flower and several other wildfruit species.

Usually during this time the Semah fish (Tor tambroides), Batu Fish(Flying Fox fish, Epalzeorhyncus kallopterus), Langkung (Hampalabimaculata), Kebali (Barb, Osteochilus spp.), and Seluang (HarlequinFish, Rasbora spp.) are easy to catch and make a good supplementduring your journey.

Orchid blossomscome in various forms;some of them are largeand easy to see from adistance, but others arenot more than 1 cm insize. Some speciesgrow on the forestground; however thereare many species thatgrow high on treebranches. So if youplan to look for it,bring good binocularswith you.

Heomayrhodpict

103osemys spinosa; snake head left: sorry cannot see details either,ybe Trimeresurus sp.; red snake left: Macropisthodondomelas; frog on right: family is Ranidae; I cannot based on theture identify the genus, but possibly Rana sp.

105

MUSHROOMS

Biodiversity

Some of them areedible, others are lethal.Will you be able to makethe difference? Sibauand MendelamWatersheds, KapuasHulu District, Heart ofBorneo.

In the area of theSibau and Mendalamwatershed you canfind many species ofmushrooms, some areedible, some are not.If you are not surehow to differentiatebetween them youcan ask your localguide or local people,because they knowexactly which one isgood for you.

107Biodiversity

Animal Watching

The fruit season is a good time for animal watching. Inseveral observation sites it is quite easy to find birds. TheEnggang Gading (Helmeted Hornbill, Buceros vigil)usually perches along the hilly river sides, similarly Ruai(Great Argus, Argusianus argus) that produces a loudsound that sometimes can be heard until night time. Thetail and wing plumage of this bird are used as ornaments inadat dresses by a number of Dayak ethnic groups. Alsofound along the river banks are King Fishers, two speciesof falcons and several fly catcher species.

Primate species are also easy to find during the fruit season.Species of the Orangutan (Pongo pygmaeus), Kelampiau(Borneo Gibbon, Hylobates muelleri), Hout (White-frontedlangur, Presbytis frontata), Kelasi (Maroon Langur,Presbytis rubicunda), Beruk (Pig-tail Macaque, Macacanemestrina), Kera (Long-tailed Macaque, Macacafascicularis) and Tarsius (Weatern Tarsier, Tarsiusbancanus) will show their presence along the road trekand river course.

Among the mammalian species, the Sambar-deer (Cervusunicolor), Bearded Pig (Sus barbatus), Kijang (IndianMuntjak, Muntiacus muntjak), and mouse deer (Tragulusnapu and Tragulusja-vanicus)also do not want to stand behindin taking advantage of the timeof abundance.

TIPS FOR BIRD

WATCHING

Opposite: Wreathed hornbill (Aceros undulatus), top:Rhinoceros hornbill (Buceros rhinoceros), 2’nd row: Littlespiderhunter (Arachnothera longirostra), 3’th row left:Asian black hornbill (Anthracoceros malayanus), center:Black-and-red broadbill (Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos),right: Blue-crowned hanging-parrot (Loriculusgalgulus),Mendelam Watershed, Kapuas Hulu District,Heartof Borneo.

You will hear manybirds in the forest, butmight see few. Thebest way to spot themis to take a cruise onthe rivers. You alsomake a chance to seethem close to fruittrees if you come withbinoculars and a lot ofpatience.

108 Biodiversity

109

INSECT DIVERSITY

The existence ofinsects in the forest isimportant due to theirrole as naturalpollinators which isresponsible if forestdynamics. Within theBKNP no less than 170species of insects havebeen found—andamong them are newspecies and families—, also found one genusof dermestidae anddryiopidae that have notbeen identified byexperts. Insect expertfrom Malaysia,Muhammad Said says“It is estimated that inBKNP as a whole liveapproximately 300species, althoughspecimens collectionis limited to oneindividual for eachspecies. Even so, thequality of specimenscollected is uniquebecause of theirscarcity and ende-micity.

Biodiversity

111

TIPS FOR REPTILES

AND AMPHIBIANS

WATCHING

Biodiversity

If you fancyherpetology, Sibauand Mendalam water-shed are the right spotto try your skills.Since these speciesare mostly activeduring the night, yourbest chance for seeingthem is by taking ariver night cruise.

Reptiles seem to comefrom another, ancientage. If you want to seethem, you better stayawake! Snake top:Gonyosomaoxycephalum; frog onthe left: unidentified;lizard on the right:Varanus dumerilii; frogon the left: Limnonectessp.; turtle left: Heosemysspinosa; snake headleft: Trimeresurus sp.;red snake left:Macropisthodonrhodomelas; frog onright: Rana sp, Sibauand MendelamWatershed, Kapuas HuluDistrict, Heart ofBorneo.

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Tourist Information

HotelSanjaya Hotel, Jl. Kom Yos Sudarso, Tel.0567 21157Aman Sentosa Hotel, Jl. Diponegoro No.14, Tel . 21153Uncak Lestari Hotel, Jl. Lintas SelatanKedamin, Tel 21822Kartini Hotel, Jl. Patimura, Tel. 21677Permata Bunda Hotel, Jl. Kom YosSudarso, Tel, 22800, 22249Losmen Merpati Indah, Jl. KS Tubun, Tel,21317Losmen Marissa, Jl. Melati No.3, 21135Losmen Harapan Kita, Jl. JembatanPelita, Tel. 21157

BusCV. Perintis, Jl. Kom Yos Sudarso, Tel,21237CV. Anugrah, Jl. Kom Yos Sudarso, Tel.22174CV. Valenty, Jl. S. Parman, Tel. 21453CV. Harum, Jl. Rahadi Usman, Tel. 22350

PlaneMerpati GSA Putussibau, Jl. DanauSentarum, Tel. 21829Dirgantara Air Service, Jl. JembatanPelita, Tel. 21046

RestaurantPutri Bungsu, Jl. Kom Yos Sudarso, Tel,21121Siti Nurbaya, Jl. Kom Yos Sudarso, Tel,22082Sari Bundo, Jl. Kom Yos Sudarso, Tel,21198Pondok Meranti, Jl. Kom Yos Sudarso, Tel,21454Fahrul, Jl. Kom Yos Sudarso, Tel,21527Bu Anna, Jl. Pasar InpresTiara, Jl. Melati, Tel. 21807Harum, Jl. Rahadi Usman, Tel. 22625Padang II, Ruai No. 2 B, Tel. 21418

CaféDOI, Jl M YasinQ-NAN, Jl. Gajah Mada, Tel 21376Bunga, Jl. Kom Yos Sudarso

ShoppingDiamond Mini Market, Jl. AminTita Mini Market, Jl. Kom Yos SudarsoSinar Diamond Mini Market, Jl. Kom YosSudarso, Tel,21900

Other Important AddressHead District Office, Jl. Antasari, Tel.21001District Police Station, Jl.D.I. Panjaitan,Tel. 21110District Post Office, Jl. D.I. Panjaitan, Tel.21108District Telecommunication Office, Jl.K.S. TubunBank Rakyat Indonesia, Jl. D.I.Panjaitan, Tel. 21020; Jl. Pasar Merdeka,Tel. 21140

Bank Kalbar Putussibau, Jl. Merdeka,Tel. 21208

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