kazakhstan & uzbekistan

KAZAKHSTAN & UZBEKISTAN BIRDING THE SILK ROAD OF CENTRAL ASIA

APRIL 24–MAY 16, 2019

The scarcely distributed Saxaul Sparrow was a major highlight! Image by Cliff Hensel

LEADER: MACHIEL VALKENBURG

LIST COMPILED BY: MACHIEL VALKENBURG

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC.

2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003

AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746

WWW.VENTBIRD.COM

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019

KAZAKHSTAN & UZBEKISTAN

April 24–May 16, 2019

By Machiel Valkenburg

On a beautiful April afternoon in the Uzbekistan capital, a group of birders met up for a trip along the

ancient Silk Road. Everybody has heard about the Silk Road, but the details of the region remain largely a

mystery to most in America. Our trip to Central Asia took us along the highlights of the Uzbek city states

of Samarqand and Bukhara while we visited the best birding spots in Kazakhstan. Spring was late in

Central Asia this year, a good three weeks late!

Yellow-breasted Azure Tit was easily found in Uzbekistan. Image by Cliff Hensel

We started the tour in Samarqand where we indulged ourselves in the steep history of this gorgeous

ancient city; the famous conqueror Timur made it the capital of his empire, and the richness of the town

can be seen everywhere. We visited the most desired places for insight into their beauty and history. The

Registan Square was especially admired by all as the best place of all. The friendliness of the local people

was astonishing, and we took loads of selfies with all the local people visiting the sites. We were true rock

stars! The food in Uzbekistan is fantastic, and we visited a plovchana, a restaurant serving only one dish,

Plov! This is rice with lamb and raisins. Naturally, we also did some birding in this area; we visited a

mountain pass an hour’s drive from the city where our main target was the Finsch’s Wheatear, which we

found after a short walk in a truly stunning landscape. Here, as well, we found White-capped Bunting,

Eastern Rock Nuthatch, and a good selection of vultures that included both Eurasian Griffon and

Himalayan Griffon.


We moved to the west to visit another gem of the Silk Road history, the city of Bukhara. We started with

a splendid day of birding in the nearby Kyzylkum Desert. We had to leave very early to reach the best

spots by 7 am, as this is the best time of day to find the illustrious Pander’s Ground-Jay. After several

hours of searching we got a glimpse of this skulky bird—maybe briefly, but we saw it! We enjoyed views

of Blue-cheeked Bee-eater and many Lesser Whitethroats. In the afternoon we returned to our hotel

located in the center of the city. The center of Bukhara is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is probably

the most beautiful spot in the history of the Silk Road. It has to be seen to be believed!

The Registan Square is a delight to visit. Image by Machiel Valkenburg

From the green city of Tashkent we flew to Kazakhstan, where the main birding of the tour took place.

The history of both countries is very different. Uzbekistan has a rich history as a trading center, while

Kazakhstanis were nomads and roamed the steppes with their cattle and horses. We arrived in Almaty,

and the main attractions for us were the giant snow-capped peaks of the Tien Shan Mountains that rise

above all and are always in

the backdrop of the city. In

the Almaty region we

would visit three different

regions. We headed east

towards the beautiful

Charyn Canyon; in the

north we visited the clay

desert of Tau-Kum while

in the south the excellent

birding spot of Big Almaty

Lake was visited.

This White-capped Bunting peeked around the corner at our group. Image by Machiel Valkenburg


The Charyn region is an Eolic stone semi-desert that holds many good species, and we had a lot of fun

birding this wonderful area. One of the main targets here was the Pallas’s Sandgrouse, which we saw in a

close fly-by over the desert in perfect morning light. From a small wormwood bush, the sounds of an

Asian Desert Warbler were heard, and quickly after we had walkaway views of this stunning little Sylvia

warbler. Common birds here were Desert Wheatear, Isabelline Wheatear, and Horned Lark, and the

powerful Long-legged Buzzard was seen numerous times. A colony of Lesser Kestrels was a lot of fun,

and Pied Wheatears and Rock Sparrows were numerous. Posting at an artesian well delivered us views of

Mongolian Finch and Linnet. Scope views of Gray-necked Bunting for all were a good ending to our days

at the Chinese border.

Always fantastic scenery in Kazakhstan! Image by Machiel Valkenburg

Our night excursion in Tau-kum rendered this amazing Small Five-toed Jerboa! Image by Cliff Hensel


Tau-Kum is known for the bird migration; millions of birds migrate over the clay desert towards their

breeding grounds in Siberia. In this part of Kazakhstan, no accommodation is available, and therefore we

lodge in a lovely private yurt camp. These nomad homes are spacious, and the professional cook prepared

delicious meals. On the evening we arrived we immediately hit a big one! I was scanning the desert and

found a Caspian Plover two miles from the camp. We all ran to the bus and drove towards the plover.

While the sun was going down, we enjoyed close scope views of one of the most attractive waders of our

planet in breeding plumage. Here we found a few Greater Sand-Plovers as well, plus many Black-bellied

Sandgrouse. Other highlights included Saxaul Sparrow, White-winged Woodpecker, Yellow-eyed Dove,

Red-headed Bunting, and a smart Little Bustard.

One of the biggest prizes of this venture was the stunning Caspian Plover! Image by Cliff Hensel

Woodpeckers are always good; this White-winged was amazing! Image by Cliff Hensel


The final part in Almaty before flying further north was a two-night visit to the mountains south of

Almaty. In about one hour we drove from 800m above sea level to 3,000m above sea level; quite the

rise—the highest elevation we birded was 3,600m! This huge difference means a huge change as well in

the avifauna; we left the desert species behind us and entered the world of high mountain birds. We

birded the vicinity of our gorgeously located hotel and loved all the special birds that passed by. We

started with an iconic species, the Ibisbill! We were lucky having close views, as the bird was resting on a

sandbank instead of foraging between the pebble banks. In the juniper scrub we found the beautiful

White-tailed Rubythroat, active Black-throated Accentors, a flying strawberry named Red-mantled

Rosefinch, the skulky Sulphur-bellied Warbler, and cute Fire-fronted Serins were always around.

The Rubythroats in the world are stunning, and this White-tailed performed superbly for us. Image by

Cliff Hensel

In the higher grounds we were lucky to find White-winged Redstart and the two other accentors (Brown

and Altai) quite quickly. The surprise on the Cosmos Station, an old research station used by the Russians

during the space race, came from a pair of Wallcreepers. We had a lot of snowfall just before our arrival,

and the birds had descended to forage in lower grounds. Another highlight was the splendid Himalayan

Snowcock, which we admired on two different days, a true gem of the Kazakh mountains.

For our final part of the tour we flew 800 miles north to the capital, Nur-Sultan. The main birding spot

here is the Korgalzhyn NP, but after our flight we spent the afternoon birding a small forested area near

the city where we quickly found our target for that day, the superb Pine Bunting. Korgalzhyn is a dream

for every shorebird lover, with a large chunk of the population of shorebirds passing through on their

migration north towards the Russian tundra. We came across large groups of breeding plumage Ruffs,

Spotted Redshank, and Red-necked Phalaropes. The road between Nur-Sultan and Korgalzhyn is already

excellent with loads of Pallid Harriers, Short-eared Owls, and Red-footed Falcons. One of the main stars

in the park is the Black Lark, an elegant lark that is endemic to the region. An absolute personal favorite!

Other interesting sightings included Black-winged Pratincoles, more ‘beema’ Yellow Wagtails, Slender-

billed Gulls, and Terek Sandpipers!

On our last evening in this completely newly built city, we enjoyed a wonderful traditional local dinner in

the best restaurant of the city. We drove almost 3,000 miles across the vast plains of Central Asia, traveled

the foothills of the majestic Himalaya Mountains, met countless interesting and friendly people, and

sampled the best cuisine the region had to offer. All in all, this amazing destination never stops to amaze,


and I will be looking forward to returning again in 2021. My thanks go to all the enthusiastic participants

on this tour who were all a pleasure to travel with. I hope to see you all again soon!

Our delighted group posing in front of the Kazakh flag in Nur-Sultan! Image by translator ☺


Checklist

BIRDS: This Checklist order, and common and scientific names are those given by James F.

Clements in The Clements Checklist of Birds of the World, 6th Edition, Cornell University Press,

with all current updates. Possible or debated species splits and alternative Common and Scientific

names (particularly those of the Oriental Bird Club) are given in ( ) or included in heavily bordered

boxes. (I) = introduced species. (E) = Endemic.

COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME

Ducks, Geese & Waterfowl Anatidae

Graylag Goose Anser anser

Mute Swan Cygnus olor

Whooper Swan Cygnus cygnus

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea

Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna

Garganey Spatula querquedula

Northern Shoveler Spatula clypeata

Gadwall Mareca strepera

Mallard Anas platyrhynchos

Northern Pintail Anas acuta

Green-winged (Eurasian) Teal Anas crecca crecca

Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina

Common Pochard Aythya ferina

Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca

White-headed Duck Oxyura leucocephala

Pheasants, Grouse & Allies Phasianidae

Common Quail Coturnix coturnix Heard only

Chukar Alectoris chukar

Himalayan Snowcock Tetraogallus himalayensis

Ring-necked Pheasant Phasianus colchicus Heard only

Flamingos Phoenicopteridae

Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus

Grebes Podicipedidae

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus

Eared (Black-necked) Grebe Podiceps nigricollis

Pigeons & Doves Columbidae

Rock Pigeon (I) Columba livia

Pale-backed Pigeon Columba eversmanni

Common Wood-Pigeon Columba palumbus

Oriental Turtle-Dove Streptopelia orientalis

Eurasian Collared-Dove Streptopelia decaocto

Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis


Sandgrouse Pteroclidae

Pallas's Sandgrouse Syrrhaptes paradoxus

Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis

Bustards Otididae

Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax

Cuckoos Cuculidae

Common (Eurasian) Cuckoo Cuculus canorus

Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus optatus

Swifts Apodidae

Alpine Swift Apus melba

Common Swift Apus apus

Rails, Gallinules & Coots Rallidae

Eurasian (Common) Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

Eurasian Coot Fulica atra

Cranes Gruidae

Demoiselle Crane Anthropoides virgo

Common Crane Grus grus

Stilts & Avocets Recurvirostridae

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta

Ibisbill Ibidorhynchidae

Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii

Oystercatchers Haematopodidae

Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus

Plovers & Lapwings Charadriidae

Black-bellied (Gray) Plover Pluvialis squatarola

Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus

White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus Leader only

Greater Sand-Plover Charadrius leschenaultii

Caspian Plover Charadrius asiaticus

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus

Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius

Sandpipers & Allies Scolopacidae

Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa

Ruff Calidris pugnax

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea

Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii


Dunlin Calidris alpina

Little Stint Calidris minuta

Eurasian Woodcock Scolopax rusticola

Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago

Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus

Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola

Common Redshank Tringa totanus

Pratincoles & Coursers Glareolidae

Black-winged Pratincole Glareola nordmanni

Gulls, Terns & Skimmers Laridae

Slender-billed Gull Chroicocephalus genei

Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus

Pallas's (Great Black-headed) Gull Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus

Mew (Common) Gull Larus canus

Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus

(Steppe Gull) (Larus fuscus barabensis)

Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica

Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia

Black Tern Chlidonias niger

White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus

Common Tern Sterna hirundo

Storks Ciconiidae

White Stork Ciconia ciconia

Cormorants & Shags Phalacrocoracidae

Pygmy Cormorant Microcarbo pygmeus

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

Pelicans Pelecanidae

Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus

Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus

Herons, Egrets & Bitterns Ardeidae

Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus

Gray Heron Ardea cinerea

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis

Great Egret Ardea alba

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax


Ibises & Spoonbills Threskiornithidae

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus

Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia

Hawks, Eagles & Kites Accipitridae

Bearded Vulture (Lammergeier) Gypaetus barbatus

Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus

Cinereous (Black) Vulture Aegypius monachus

Himalayan Griffon Gyps himalayensis

Eurasian Griffon Gyps fulvus

Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus

Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis

Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca

Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos

Eurasian Marsh-Harrier Circus aeruginosus

Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus

Shikra Accipiter badius

Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus

Black Kite Milvus migrans

White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla

Common Buzzard Buteo buteo

Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus

Owls Strigidae

Eurasian Scops-Owl Otus scops

Little Owl Athene noctua

Tawny Owl Strix aluco

Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus

Hoopoes Upupidae

Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops

Bee-eaters Meropidae

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus

European Bee-eater Merops apiaster

Woodpeckers Picidae

White-winged Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucopterus

Falcons & Caracaras Falconidae

Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni

Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus

Red-footed Falcon Falco vespertinus

Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo

Saker Falcon Falco cherrug

Shrikes Laniidae

Red-tailed Shrike Lanius phoenicuroides


Great Gray Shrike Lanius excubitor

Great Gray Shrike (Steppe) Lanius excubitor pallidirostris

Crows, Jays & Magpies Corvidae

Eurasian Magpie Pica pica

Turkestan Ground-Jay Podoces panderi

(Pander's Ground-Jay)

Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax

Yellow-billed (Alpine) Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus

Eurasian Jackdaw Corvus monedula

Rook Corvus frugilegus

Carrion Crow Corvus corone

Hooded Crow Corvus cornix

Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis

Common Raven Corvus corax

Larks Alaudidae

Horned (Shore) Lark Eremophila alpestris

Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla

Bimaculated Lark Melanocorypha bimaculata

Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra

Black Lark Melanocorypha yeltoniensis

Lesser Short-toed Lark Alaudala rufescens

Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis

Crested Lark Galerida cristata

Swallows Hirundinidae

Bank Swallow (Sand Martin) Riparia riparia

Pale Sand Martin Riparia diluta

Eurasian Crag-Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica

Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica

Common House-Martin Delichon urbicum

Tits, Chickadees & Titmice Paridae

Coal Tit Periparus ater

Black-breasted (Rufous-naped) Tit Periparus rufonuchalis Heard only

Azure Tit Cyanistes cyanus

(Yellow-breasted Tit) (Cyanistes cyanus flavipectus)

Great Tit Parus major

(Turkestan Tit) (Parus major bokharensis)

Penduline-Tits Remizidae

White-crowned Penduline-Tit Remiz coronatus

Nuthatches Sittidae

Eastern Rock Nuthatch Sitta tephronota


Wrens Troglodytidae

Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes

Dippers Cinclidae

Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii

Bush Warblers & Allies Scotoceridae

Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti Heard only

Leaf Warblers Phylloscopidae

Hume's Warbler Phylloscopus humei

Sulphur-bellied Warbler Phylloscopus griseolus

Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita

Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides

Reed Warblers & Allies Acrocephalidae

Booted Warbler Iduna caligata

Sykes's Warbler Iduna rama

Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Iduna pallida

Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola

Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum

Eurasian Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus

Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus

Sylviids Sylviidae

Asian Desert Warbler Sylvia nana

Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca

Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris

Greater Whitethroat Sylvia communis

Old World Flycatchers Muscicapidae

Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata

White-throated Robin Irania gutturalis Leader only

Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos

Bluethroat Luscinia svecica

Blue Whistling-Thrush Myophonus caeruleus

Himalayan Rubythroat Calliope pectoralis

Rufous-backed Redstart Phoenicurus erythronotus

(Eversmann's Redstart)

Blue-capped Redstart Phoenicurus coeruleocephala

Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus

White-winged Redstart Phoenicurus erythrogastrus

(Güldenstädts Redstart)

Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros

Rufous-tailed Rock-Thrush Monticola saxatilis

Blue Rock-Thrush Monticola solitarius

Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura

Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata

Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe


Finsch's Wheatear Oenanthe finschii

Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka

Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti

Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina

Thrushes & Allies Turdidae

Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus

Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula

Black-throated Thrush Turdus atrogularis

Starlings Sturnidae

European Starling Sturnus vulgaris

Rosy Starling Pastor roseus

Common Myna Acridotheres tristis

Accentors Prunellidae

Himalayan (Altai) Accentor Prunella himalayana

Brown Accentor Prunella fulvescens

Black-throated Accentor Prunella atrogularis

Wagtails & Pipits Motacillidae

Gray Wagtail Motacilla cinerea

Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava

Motacilla flava thunbergi

Motacilla flava beema

Motacilla flava leucocephala

Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola

Motacilla citreola calcarata

Motacilla citreola werae

White Wagtail Motacilla alba

Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris

Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis

Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta

Finches, Euphonias & Allies Fringillidae

White-winged Grosbeak Mycerobas carnipes

Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus

Red-mantled Rosefinch Carpodacus rhodochlamys

Crimson-winged Finch Rhodopechys sanguineus Leader only

Mongolian Finch Bucanetes mongolicus

Plain Mountain-Finch Leucosticte nemoricola

Black-headed Mountain-Finch Leucosticte brandti Leader only

Desert Finch Rhodospiza obsoleta

European Greenfinch Chloris chloris

Eurasian Linnet Linaria cannabina

Red Crossbill Loxia curvirostra

European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis

Fire-fronted Serin Serinus pusillus

Old World Buntings Emberizidae


Red-headed Bunting Emberiza bruniceps

Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra

Rock Bunting Emberiza cia

Chestnut-breasted Bunting Emberiza stewarti

Pine Bunting Emberiza leucocephalos

Gray-necked Bunting Emberiza buchanani

Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana

Old World Sparrows Passeridae

Saxaul Sparrow Passer ammodendri

House Sparrow Passer domesticus

Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis

Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus

Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia

MAMMALS Dogs Canidae

Corsac Fox Vulpes corsac

Squirrels Sciuridae

Long-tailed Marmot Marmota caudata

Long-clawed Ground Squirrel Spermophilopus leptodactylus

Yellow Ground Squirrel Spermophilus fulvus

Small Suslik Spermophilus erythrogenys

Muskrat ( I ) Ondatra zibethicus

Gerbils Gerbillidae

Jird (Red-tailed Gerbil) Meriones libycus

Great Gerbil Rhombomys opimus

Jerboas Dipodidae

Small Five-toed Jerboa Allactaga elater

Rabbits and Hares Leporidae

Tolai Hare Lepus tolai

European Hare Lepus europeus

Other Wildlife Tortoises Testudinidae

Horsfield's Tortoise Testudo horsfieldi

Agamas Agamidae

Steppe Agama Agama sanguinolenta

Agama sp. Agama sp.

Toad-headed Lizard Phrynocephalus helioscopus

Wall & Sand Lizards Lacertidae

Racerunner Lizard sp. Eremias velox

Racerunner Lizard sp. Eremias intermedius

Sand Lizard p. Lacerta strigata

Lizard sp. Lacerta sp.

Captive/Re-inroduced


Goitred Gazelle Gazella subgutturosa

Dromedary Camel Camelus dromedarius

kazakhstan & uzbekistan

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