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NAS 2011 | KAZIRANGA RBH HANDLOOM CLUSTER | RAKHI ANAND

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KAZIRANGA RBH HANDLOOM CLUSTERNEED ASSESSMENT SURVEY REPORT (NAS) 2011 SUBMITTED BY: RAKHI ANAND


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Design clinic scheme was initiated under MSME’s unique and ambitious design in-tervention scheme for the country’s micro, small and medium scale enterprises. It is a Government of India, Ministry of MSME initiative launched under National Man-ufacturing Competitive Programme. DSC was initiated to increase awareness about the value of design and establish design learning in MSMEs. This programme was introduced to increase competitiveness of MSME products and services through design. To create a sustainable design ecosystem for the MSME sector through con-tinuous learning and skill development. Promoting the use of design by MSME for developing better products and services that are market led. To focus on building the design capability of MSMEs to enable them to improve business performance as well as compete in the global market.

Key principles: Adopting a rigorous, yet applicant friendly, process.Promoting and disseminating design concepts in regional or local languages understood by the MSMEs.Establishing benefits without overwhelming the MSMEs.Learning from other successful design-support programmes.Establishing systematic processes for design and product development in MSMEs.

Scheme description:For easy percolation of design thinking and philosophy and maximum benefit for MSME units the Design Clinic Scheme is divided at 3 broader levels. These activities are helpful in smooth transition in to several levels of design intervention in industrial and business activities of MSMEs. Design Awareness Seminar: The design sensitisation seminar is aimed to create a platform for MSME units to improve the manufacturing competitiveness. The seminar will help MSME participants to interact with design experts/speakers to understand design methodology and benefits of design to MSME in their business, product, process, service and operations. To take design to a higher level of manu-facturing functions, it is very important to develop an understanding of the design scenario and environment at an early stage of conception.

Design Awareness Programme: The design awareness programme is focused on exploring industrial functions and activities to develop a holistic map of MSME clusters and units. The design expert/s will generate design information about products, market scenario, technology, communication, research and development, and various industrial functions along with human factor study for ergonomics, safety, convenience, learning and skill up gradation through design research. The programme will also provide design remedies for identified opportunities through the design clinic workshop. The design awareness programme is conducted in two stages.- Need Assessment Survey- Design Clinic Workshop Design Projects: Design projects are identified during the need assessment survey and discussed during the design clinic workshop. Project which require intensive design observation and interventions can be taken up as design projects with the help of design experts. The project can be related to design intervention in area of product/process /strategic areas where design can help in generating solutions and value for individual or group of MSMEs.

Role of Design in Improving Competitiveness: Design is an approach, process and methodology. Design is indented, purposeful, contextual, which is aimed to cre-ate advantage, distinction and futuristic outcome as a result. Design is systemic and holistic in nature, therefore helps in generating more creative, impactful and sustainable solutions. In manufacturing, design is commonly associated with in-dustrial product design – specifically the ‘aesthetics and appearance’ of a product at a surface level interaction. However, the application of design is much broader, for example designing for functional appeal, ease of manufacture, consumption and sustainable. Designing may also be done for reliability or quality or business processes. Service designs are primarily to cater to customer’s experience of the delivered product and service.

DESIGN CLINIC SCHEME (DSC)


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The National Institute of Design (NID) is internationally acclaimed as one of the foremost multi-disciplinary institutions in the field of design education and re-search. The Business Week, USA has listed NID as one of the top 25 European & Asian programmes in the world. The institute functions as an autonomous body under the department of Industrial Policy & Promotion, Ministry of Commerce & Industry, and Government of India. NID is recognised by the Dept. of Scientific & Industrial Research (DSIR) under Ministry of Science & Technology, Government of India, as a scientific and industrial design research organisation.

NID has been a pioneer in industrial design education after Bauhaus and Ulm in Germany and is known for its pursuit of design excellence to make Designed in India, Made for the World a reality. NID’s graduates have made a mark in key sec-tors of commerce, industry and social development by taking role of catalysts and through thought leadership.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF DESIGN (NID)

The larger purpose of design is to do things in a better manner, to improve a situation and to make a positive difference. The role of design in business is to create value. A company can use the design process to add value to products, services, and the organisation. A well-designed product, service, or organisa-tion is always more valuable.

Design, innovation and growth are linked. Innovation and design are not simply about new products or technology. They are also about how to improve products for everyday use, leading to reduced costs, increased usability and new business opportunities. Design is recognised as an innovative discipline that can help MSMEs to sustain and grow in an increasingly competitive mar-ket.

With an aim to undertake training, research and consultancy activities in small and micro enterprises focusing on entrepreneurship development, the Indian Institute of Entrepreneurship (IIE) was established in the year 1993 in Guwahati by the erstwhile Ministry of Industry (now the Ministry of Micro, Small and Medium En-terprises), Government of India as an autonomous national institute. The institute began operating from April 1994 with the North East Council (NEC), Governments of Assam, Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland and SIDBI as its other stakeholders.

The policy direction and guidance to the institute is provided by its Board of Management whose Chairman is the Secretary to Government of India, Ministry of Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSME). The Governing Council of the institute is headed by Chairman, NEC and the Executive Committee is headed by the Secretary, Ministry of MSME, Government of India.

The institute is located at Lalmati, Basistha Chariali, 37 NH bypass at a distance of 5 kms from the Dispur Capital complex, 10 kms from the nearest Railway Station and 30 kms from the LGB Airport.

INDIAN INSTITUTE OF ENTREPRENEURSHIP


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ABOUT ASSAMGEOGRAPHY

Assam is a north-eastern state of India and is one of the most culturally and geographically distinct regions of the country. It is surrounded by six of the other Seven Sister States: Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Manipur, Mizoram, Tripura and Meghalaya. These states are connected to the rest of India via a narrow strip in West Bengal called the Siliguri Corridor or “Chicken’s Neck”.

The state also shares international borders with Bhutan and Bangladesh; and cultures, peoples and climate with South-East Asia. Assam became a part of India after the British occupied the region following the First Anglo-Burmese War of 1824–1826.

Geomorphic studies conclude that the Brahmaputra, the life-line of Assam is an antecedent river, older than the Himalayas. The river with steep gorges and rapids in Ar-unachal Pradesh entering Assam, becomes a braided river (at times 10 mi/16 km wide) and with tributaries, creates a flood plain (Brahmaputra Valley: 50–60 mi/80–100 km wide, 600 mi/1000 km long). The hills of Karbi Anglong, North Cachar and those in and close to Guwahati (also Khasi-Garo Hills) now eroded and dissected are origi-nally parts of the South Indian Plateau system. In the south, the Barak originating in the Barail Range (Assam-Nagaland border) flows through the Cachar district with a 25–30 miles (40–50 km) wide valley and enters Bangla-desh with the name Surma.

VEGETATION

Assam is very rich in vegetation, forests and wildlife. Lumber was once a lucrative business, until it was de-clared illegal by the Supreme Court of India. The region also has a number of reserved forests, and one of them, Kaziranga, is the home of the rare Indian Rhinoceros. The state produces a lot of Bamboo, although the bamboo industry is still nascent. The wildlife, forests and flora, rivers and waterways, have great natural beauty, provid-ing growth in tourism.

CLIMATE

It experiences heavy rainfall between March and Septem-ber, with very high humidity in the summer months. The temperatures are generally mild, never extreme during any season. High rainfall, deforestation, and other factors have resulted in annual floods that cause widespread loss of life, livelihood and property. An earthquake prone re-gion, Assam has experienced two large earthquakes: 1897 (8.1 on the Richter scale) and 1950 (8.6).


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POPULATION

The prime tribes of Assam include Bodo Kacha-ris, Dimasas and Lalungs The non-tribal groups of Assam reside in and around the regions of Barak Hills and Brahmaputra River. The people of these communities follow the modern ways of living and are quite deft in adapting to the changing lifestyle trends.

LANGUAGE

The official language of Assam - Assamese - is mostly spoken by the non-tribal sects who have also access to educational facilities. Hindi is also in use by the migrants of North India.

ABOUT GOLAGHAT DISTRICT and KAZIRANGA Golaghat district has a population of 946,279. Hindus 813,263, Muslims 74,808 (7.9%), Christians 52,277.

Golaghat district is surrounded by the river Brah-maputra to the north, the state of Nagaland to the south, Jorhat district to the east and Karbi Anglong and Nagaon district to the west. Dhansiri is the prin-cipal river, which originates from Laisang peak of Nagaland. It streams through a distance of 352 km from south to north before joining the Brahmaputra. Its catchment area is 1220 km. Doyang, Nambor, Doigrung and Kalioni are the four rivulets of the Dhansiri. The river Kakodonga marks the border between Golaghat and Jorhat districts.

DEMOGRAPHY

According to the 2011 census Golaghat district has a population of 1,058,674, roughly equal to the nation of Cyprus or the US state of Rhode Island. This gives it a ranking of 430th in India (out of a total of 640). The district has a population density of 302 inhabit-ants per square kilometre (780 /sq mi) . Its popu-lation growth rate over the decade 2001-2011 was 11.88 %. Golaghat has a sex ratio of 961 females for every 1000 males, and a literacy rate of 78.31 %.

Hindus 813,263, Muslims 74,808 (7.9%), Christians 52,277. The main communities of the districts are the Ahoms, Kalita, Assamese Brahmins, Tea-tribes, Mising, Sutiya and Kachari.

There is also a small population of Turung and Aiton people living in the district. Migrant communities like Marwari and Bengali live in the townships.

Recently there has been settlement of suspected Bangladeshi immigrants in the bordering areas of Nagaland.

TRANSPORTATION

To reach Kaziranga, nearest airport is in Jorhat town, which is 96 km away from Kaziranga. Jorhat is connected to Kolkata, Delhi and Guwahati by regular flights and the nearest railway station to Ka-ziranga is Furkating, which is 80 km away. Furkat-ing is connected by trains from Delhi and Kolkata.

TOURIST ATTRACTION

In 1974 Golaghat district became home to Kaziranga National Park, which has an area of 472 km2 (182.2 sq mi). It shares the park with Nagaon district.


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> Rural Business Hub (RBH) is sponsored by Ministry of Panchayati Raj, Government of India, and was imple-mented by Indian Institute of Entrepreneurship (IIE), Guwahati in association with IORA-Janambhumi Hotels & Resorts PVT Ltd. At madhya Kaziranga gaon Panchayat in Golaghat District in Assam.

> Rural Business Hub on Handloom is the first of its kind in Assam. RBH provides substantial livelihood to weav-ers empowering women folk boost to rural economy. It is a unique PPP model between Ministry of Panchayati Raj, IIE and IORA, covering a total of Madhya Kaziranga Gaon Panchayat.

> Two training centre has been set up, one in Boschagaon Village (Unit incharge Ms. Rupjyoti Saikia Gogoi, and the other in Kuruabahi Village.

> Currently, 13 weavers residents of Kuruabahi Gaon are getting trained under Mr. Nabadeka (Technician) in handloom.

> Most of these women have never done weaving before and most of them belong to farming community. After the training period, IORA provides looms to few selected weavers with good skills and who can manage time be-tween farming and weaving.

> Out of 120 women weavers trained 40 house hold units are currently engaged in this program. IORA has pro-vided

13 weavers with good quality looms for work purpose.

> A retail outlet has been opened at IORA – The Retreat Kohora, Kaziranga, Golaghat, Assam.

Kaziranga RBH handloom cluster

Mr. Nabadeka (Trainer & Technician) in handloom IORA WEAVES


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Products developed in the cluster

Products which are being developed in this cluster consist of traditional textiles like Gamosa and Mekhla-Chaddar. Other modern products which are developed are:

1.Table Runners2.Table Mats3.Cushion Covers

Mostly these designs are given by the trainer to the weav-ers. They inculcate traditional motifs by themselves. New motifs are also introduced. There are few weavers who develop motifs and designs according to their aesthetic sensibility.

Most of these products are made form industrial cotton (2/60 & 2/80 counts) and coloured acrylic yarns provided by IORA

Apart from weaving for IORA few of the weavers weave mekhla-chaddar, gamosa and shawls for themselves. Few make it for the local market in Bokakhat and 1-2 weavers work on customer order. For which they buy yarns from Bokakhat local market where the prices of yarns are high.

IORA gets products outsourced from Nagaland, and other parts of Assam, which they try and replicate.

List of products bought from outside:

1.Cushion covers, Runners, Table Mats (Dimapur, Na-galand)2.Tea Bags (Jorhat, Assam)3.Cane Baskets and Trays (Dimapur, Nagaland)4.T-Shirts (Jorhat, Assam)

Mekhla-Chaddar Variations Table Mats Variations Gamosa Variations

Cushion covers kept for display at retail outlet IORA- The Retreat


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Cushion cover made in RBH cluster Cushion covers outsoursed from Nagaland

Cane baskets from Nagaland

Table mats made in RBH cluster

Runners made in RBH cluster

New designs - Runners made in RBH cluster

PRODUCTS OUT SOURCED FROM NAGALAND


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Embroidered Bag and recyled use of “insent stick covers” done by Ms. Hemprabha

Saikia PRODUCTS MADE IN KAZIRANGA CLUSTER

Mekhela Gamosa

Mekhela-Chaddar Gamosa


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LOCAL MARKET IN BOKHA-HAT, GOLAGHAT DISTRICT

Mr. Vijay More and Mr. Lak-shmi Narayan More are few trad-ers who get yarns from dimapur and sell it in local market. They also buy products diretly from weavers like Gamosa, and mekhla-chaddar and sell it in local market. Cost price for one piece Gamosa is Rs 50/- and sell-ing price for the same is Rs 70/-.

Cotton yarns are sold in terms of hanks, and acrylic yarns are sold in terms of Kg which is cheap and af-fordable for the weavers.

The quality of cotton yarns in these local markets is very poor, which tend to break while weaving and results in bad finishing. While fabric woven in acrylic yarns are much cleaner and neater which encourages the weavers to use more of acrylic yarns than silk and cotton.


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LOOMS , TOOLS AND RAW MATERIALS

IORA has taken initiative to set up handlooms at all the training centres. These handlooms are well build with good quality wood and sturdy enough for long term. Tools like shuttle, bobbin, and yarns are provided by them. IORA have in built selec-tion criteria, where quality weavers are selected during the training period and loom is set up at their house.

They are also provided with raw materials and designs to be produced. The looms are set on contract of six months; the weavers are evaluated on basis of quality and productivity, if any of these criteria are not fulfilled the looms are withdrawn from their premises.


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PRE LOOM PROCESS

Above: Weaver is converting hank into bobins

Below: Bobins ready for use.

Coloured hanks are provided to the weaver by the technicians. They donot involve in any kind of yarn treatment like scouring and washing of yarns before use.

Right (next page) : Weaver is mak-ing a warp using the ready bobins fixed into a wooden frame.


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Above: Weavers are carrying the ready warp inside fr further perocess.

Right (next page) : Each and every process is manually done. The image shows that each and every thread is horizontally aligned between two horizontal beams or sticks. The inbetween sticks are known as lease rods which are introduced to keep the gapsThe beams are stretched from both side creating and tension which makes it easier for the third person to straighten the threads properly.


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Above: Process of Denting, In this case denting is done before and healds are manually made later on.

Above: Process of Drafting, In this case drafting is done after the warp has been put up on the loom and ready made healds are used.


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Above: Process of Drafting, In this case drafting is done before and ready made healds are used.

Above: Process of Heald making. After denting is done, healds are manually made.


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Above: Process of Heald making. After denting is done, healds are manually made.


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FInally the warp is ready to be used.


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VISIT TO KAZIRANGA HANDLOOM CLUSTER

Kaziranga cluster weaver’s household is located within 3-4km radius area. Most of the weav-ers work on 2-shaft loom. There are at present two RBH training center established in Go-laghat District. One is situated around 20 km from IORA resort, which is taken care by Smt. Roopjyoti Saikia Gogoi. While second RBH training unit has been set up in Kuruabahi Vil-lage, inside one of the weavers house. At present 11 weavers are under training of Shri Nabadeka.

TRAINER/TECHNICIAN

SMT. ROOPJYOTI SAIKIA GOGOIAge:37 years

Have been weaving since 16 years and since past 2 years she has been handling the RBH train-ing center, where she has been giving techni-cal inputs to t he weavers. The training center consists of 5 looms with inbuilt facilities for jacquard. The looms have been setup by IORA weaves, for training as well as for work purpose. She manages Kaziranga Haat which has been setup inside her compound, used for storage for the products developed by the cluster weav-ers. She also owns a traditional artifacts shop in Kohora market. Roopjyoti is fluent in english and manageable French Dialect which comes in handy while interacting with foreign customers or tourists.

Below: RBH training center, Below right: Kaziranga Haat

Smt. Roopjyoti Saikia Gogoi


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TRAINER/TECHNICIAN

SHRI NABADEKA Age: 50 years

He has been involved in handloom sector since last 18 years. He started working with IORA past 2 years. He has been giving 15 days train-ing to women who have never done handloom weaving before. He has been helping weavers with designs and technical inputs. He trains in 2-shaft as well as 4-shaft handloom weaving, warping, denting, heald making, motif design as well as working on graph paper.

Below: RBH training unit, Kuruabahi Village, Above: Sample developed taking inspiration from Naga Textiles

Shri Nebadeka


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SANDHYA DASAge: 35 years

Village: Kuruabahi

She is a full time weaver who weaves for com-mercial purpose. The Kuruabahi Training Cen-tre has been setup in her compound. She has been working with IORA past 2 years. She has gone under 15 days training provided by IORA.

Products: Cushion Covers, Table Runners, Table matsWorking hours: 3-4hrs daily

Few of her work are displayed below.

Product developed by Sandhya Das

Kuruabahi Training Center


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HEMAPRABHA SAIKIAAge: 66 years

Village: Rajbari, Bokakhat

She used to weave but now due to age has stopped weaving. She is a writer and a poet and has published books on local folk songs. Her hand in embroidery is unique and outstanding. She makes use of waste materials like leftover plastic/jute rug sacks to develop quilts, baby blankets etc.

Using empty inscent stick covers and converting them into useful hand fans.

Few of her work are displayed below. She is no longer working on handlooms.

Reuse of inscent stick packets


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SMT. JUNALI DEKA (Wife of Boun Deka)Age: 23 years

SHRI. BOUN DEKAAge: 26 years

MONJU DEKA (Younger sister of Junali)Age: 20 years

Village: Siljuri

This is one family where one male weaver also sustains, but majorly work is done by women since men are occupied with feild work and farming. Junali and Monju works for 3-4 hrs daily to achieve there targets apart from their daily household chores and farming.

Two IORA looms have been set up inside their house.

Products: Table runners, table matsWorking hours: 3-4 hrs daily


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Inside Junali Deka’s house, setup of two IORA looms


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SMT. MOMI SAKIAAge: 24 years

Village: Siljuri

Momi has been working with IORA past 2 years. She has been weaving since child hood. She also works on commercial order bases. Mostly design inputs are given by Dekada (The techni-cian)

Products: Gamosa, Table mats, RunnersWroking hr: 3-4 hrs daily

Few of her work has been displayed belowMost of the weavers require finish upgra-dation training.

Products developed by Momi Sakia


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SMT. DAMYANTI GOGOIAge: 27 years

Village: Geleki

She has been weaving past 10 years of her life. She is also engaged in farming. So the time spend on weaving is not more than 3-4 hrs daily. She has been mostly weaving for self use before joining IORA weaves.

Products: Cushion covers, Table mats, RunnersWorking hr: 3-4hrs daily

SMT. SINU NATHAge: 40 years

Village: Domjan

She has been weaving past 20 years after mar-riage. She is also one of the most experienced and skillful weavers. She has been weaving for self use before joining IORA weaves. She also works with hand spun cotton and silk, but for self use.

Products: Cushion Covers, Table mats, runnersWorking hr: 3-4hrs daily

Product developed by Damyanti Gogoi Product developed by Sinu Nath


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SMT. SHASHI GOGOIAge: 45 years

Village: Bochagaon

She is also one of the most experienced weav-ers who has been weaving since child hood. She also grows cotton and cultivates silk. Use of natural fibers is for self use. She started work-ing with IORA weaves past 2 years. Her skills are far more developed and has fine finish to it. Products: Mekhla-chaddar, Gamosa, Table mat, runners etcWorking : 3-4 hrs daily.

SMT. KASHMIRI GOGOIAge: 27 years

Village: Bochagaon

Kashmiri has learnt weaving during the work-shop 2 years back, and since then she has been weaving for IORA weaves. Apart from weaving she also spends her time taking care of her children and family.

Products: Table runners, Table matsWorking hours: 3-4 hrs daily.

Cotton grown culivated by Sashi Gogoi


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SMT. DEEPJYOTI DEKAAge: 34 years

Village: Lokhipur

Deepjyoti has been weaving since her class 9. She is also into farming. Apart from weaving she also know stitching. She has been weaving for IORA for the past 2 years.

Products: Table runners, Table mats, Gamosa, Mekhla-Chaddar.Working hours: 3-4 hrs (approx)

SMT. PALLAVI BAILONGAge: 35 years

Village: Bochagaon

Pallavi has been working with IORA weaves past 2 years, and she has been weaving since childhood. Time taken apart from farming and taking care of her family is spent in weaving. She also weaves for self use and for the local market.

Products: Table runners, Table mats, Gamosa, Mekhla-Chaddar.Working hours: 3-4 hrs (approx)


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SMT. SUMI SAIKIAAge: 25 years

Village: Bochagoan

Sumi has been weaving since her childhood.She has been working with IORA weaves past 2 years. Apart from making products for IORA she also weaves for personal use. With skills like stitching she has also created house hold prod-ucts like pillow covers etc.

Sumi is again one of the finesh weaver, who has the skills and aesthetic sensibility to grab ideas and work on them.

Apart from weaving she is also into farming.

Products: Table runners, Table mats, Mekhla-Chaddar, Gamosa

Working hours: 3-4 hrs daily.

Products developed by Sumi Sakia


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HEMA SAIKIAAge: 25 years

Village: Bochagaon

Hema has been weaving since her childhood.She has been working with IORA weaves past 2 years. Apart from making products for IORA she also weaves for personal use. With skills like stitching she has also created house hold prod-ucts like pillow covers etc.

She has two looms set up at her house, both made traditionally out of bamboo.

Hema takes tution classes for students of nurs-ery and class 2 earning her a monthly of Rs 1300/-

Products: Table runners, Table mats, Mekhla-Chaddar, Gamosa

Working hours: 3 hrs daily.

Product developed by Hema Saikia


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ARPANA GOGOI

Age: 25 years

Arpana has been weaving since her childhood. She has been working with IORA past 2 years.Apart from weaving for IORA, she makes products on various client orders.

Few tourist guides know her, and so they bring foreigners for buying traditional products. Most of these products are made in polyster.

Products: Table mats

Working hour: 3-4hrs daily.

GAURI PRABHA HAZARIKA

Age: 25 years

She has been weaving since her childhood. She has been working with IORA past 2 years.Apart from weaving she is also into fulltime farming.



Products developed by Arpana Gogoi


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SMT SAVITRI GOGOIAge: 35 years

She has been weaving since her childhood. She has been working with IORA past 2 years.Before joing IORA weaves she has been weaving for herself, but not for sale, only personal use.

Apart from weaving she is also into fulltime farming.



Product developed by Savitri Gogoi


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NAS REPORT


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A) Study of skills, knowledge, product de-sign, product diversification and sustain-ability

ISSUES AND CONCERNS

1) The existing products consist of traditional mekhla-chaddar and gamosa. Apart from the traditional textiles the weavers also develop table runner, table mats and cushion covers for IORA weaves.

2) The range of products developed is mostly copied from designs out sourced from Nagaland or other brands like Fabindia. Few designs for runners and table mat were given by the techni-cian Mr. Nabadeka and Ms. Bornali Sharma.

3) The products are made out of mill spun cot-ton yarns (mostly counts of 2/60s &2/80s). They also use acrylic yarns available in the mar-ket. There is very less use of hand spun natural fibres like silk and cotton even though its easy availability. There are some weavers who are still using natural fibres for making textiles but only for their personal use.

4) The cotton yarns provided to the weavers or the one available in the local market is not of good quality. These yarns are chemically dyed and have low resistance to colour bleed.

5) There is no intricacy in traditional designs, all the motifs and designs have blown up in pro-portion and random new designs have replaced the traditional motifs.

6) The finishing of the products is not up to the mark. Loose salvage, edges are not properly fin-ished, excess threads are not trimmed, tags are not properly attached.

7) These weavers have used well there aesthetic sense while doing traditional textiles like me-khla and chaddar, but when it comes to new products there is no rhythm and harmony and design sensibility.

8) These weavers are mostly trained in 2-4 shaft looms. Mostly weavers work on 2 shafts which cannot have much design diversification.

9) The knowledge about traditions got lost in translation, with the new generation not know-ing the details and importance of motifs and designs used in Assames textiles.


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OPPORTUNITIES

1) Keeping the current trends in mind lots of new products can be redesigned.

2) The traditional textile pieces can be trans-formed into more contemporary and relevant to current market requirement.

3) Getting back to intricate detailing which was has been the core of assames textile, with de-signs made less labour intensive.

4) Introducing hand and machine embroidery, bead work for newer products

5) Introducing the culture of reuse and recycle. Creating awareness about the environment friendly products. Use of locally available re-courses like jobs tears, hay (from harvest), newspapers, plastic covers, leaves. Developing products out of waste paper and plastics like – carry bags, table mats, runner’s blinds curtains etc keeping in mind the essence of Assam.

6) Encouraging use of natural fibres and natural dyes.

7) Skill and design development exercises can be conducted for the weavers which will help them to understand and develop new product range as well as improve their design sensibility.

8) The elements from the existing traditional textile can be used for new product develop-ment and diversifications like: Upholstery ma-terials like napkins, curtains, yardage, blinds, bedcovers etc, dress materials like duppattas and sarees etc, keeping in mind the current market trends and demands

9) Use of traditional motifs in a more contem-porary way.

10) Developing various styles of finishing tech-niques: variations of tassels, edges finishing, hemming, use of beads for tassels, use of em-broidery for edge finishing, how to tag properly, and importance of a fine and neatly finished textile piece in market etc.

11) How the use of natural fibers like silk and cotton can lead in contributing to national and global health, to larger sustainable practice and supporting our eco system


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B) Scope for supportive programs for self improvement exercises, design interven-tions and interactive sessions among the weavers

ISSUES

1. Weavers are not aware of the value and market rates of their products in outside market

2. Minimum interaction among the weavers group, which also effects the quality of product and technical issues for which they have to directly contact the technical head.

OPPORTUNITIES

1. Interactive sessions with the weavers and the management community

2. Sharing of ideas and problem solving sessions amongst each other which will also develop a strong bond between the weavers community without the intervention of a third party.

3. Developing sensitivity between work , family and how to manage time for better productivity

4. Interactive session for weavers interests and workshops once in a while for their knowledge and skill development

5. More group assignments which will help develop team work and management skills.


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C) Scope of visual identity, branding, marketing and merchandizing of the products

ISSUES AND CONCERNS

1.The cluster does not have proper documentation and cataloguing system for various categories like traditional and contemporary products

2.There are no proper photographs of the products made by weavers

3.Each product made for IORA comes under IORA weaves which needs proper branding and mar-keting

OPPORTUNITIES

1.High level requirement to promote and sustain product categories for commercial activity

2.Year wise log books should be maintained with photographs and detailed specification of the products likes: the count of thread used, colour, reed count, weight, EPI, PPI etc for future refer-ence during production on client or market order.

3.Product packaging is also required along with visual branding

4.Along with online portal, proper cataloguing is required for larger audience other than local mar-ket

Below: Quality of finishing done while taging


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D) Requirement for new machinery and design collaborations

ISSUES AND CONCERNS

1.The cluster does not have sewing machines

2.The weavers don’t have proper tool kit ( fabric cutting scissors, needles, thread (bobbins), pick glass, seam ripper)

OPPORTUNITIES

1.If hand embroidery is to be introduced proper tool kit is required

2.Training in sewing machine and embroidery machine is required for better finished products and which will give them an opportunity to explore and even try and develop new products

3.At least 4-5 sewing machines should be set up at each training centre

Below: Raw and fraied edges.


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E) Scope of effective time management tips for weavers and tips to reduce stress and improve productivity

ISSUES AND CONCERNS

1.Most of the weavers are women and also engaged in farming. They also have to manage time for kids and family, which leaves them with very less time to work on loom

2.Weavers who are engaged in farming can dedicate a maximum of 3-4 hrs per day, with very less productivity. They get tired and to manage a proper time between work and family is difficult for them, which effects productivity and earning.

3.They are paid for runners Rs 100/m, table mates Rs 25/piece, cushion covers are for Rs 55/piece etc. Mostly time taken to weave 35m of acrylic yarn is 25 days . Weavers working with silk threads earn upto rupees 5000 per month, while weavers working with cotton earn up to rupees 3000 per month also depending on the output. Time management training will increase their productivity and profit rate.

OPPORTUNITY

1.Planning their day can help them accomplish more and feel more in control of their life. Keeping a schedule for daily activities to minimize conflicts and last minute rushes

2.Prioritize tasks like relatively unimportant tasks can consume a lot of their day. Prioritizing tasks will ensure that they spend their time and energy on things which are important to them not only weaving but also taking care of their family and kids

3.Maintaining a diary which will help them evaluate how they are spending their time, spending time on weaving, farming and how they can manage more time with their family

4.While working in a different working station/ training centre take a break when needed, which will reduce stress


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F) Scope of training and skill up-gradation

ISSUES and CONCERNS

1) There are very few skilled weavers, who know the technicalities of weaving, but most of them tend to leave because of low income. Irregularity in training programme, which leads to losing of knowledge attained during these 15 day training period.

2) Lose of interest amongst weavers due to lack of exposure. There are no advance training facility where weavers can try their hand in other textile related crafts like hand embroidery, sewing etc.

OPPORTUNITIES

1) Regular design workshops once in a month which could provide training on skill enhancement, quality control, design diversification and product development to the weavers.

2) Monthly or once in a six month exposure visits of either master weavers, or a selected group of weavers. Which will also develope their thinking, and help generate new ideas.

3) Training of master weaver, who herself can conduct further training in surrounding areas, which will also enhance her communication skills but also help improve the quality of weaving amongst other weavers.

4) These self organised workshops should have weavers express their skills and knowledge apart from weaving, leading to sharing and development of new ideas


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G) Local and International competition and market study

ISSUES and CONCERNS

1) The designs are copied from designs bought from Nagaland and other handloom design houses like Fabindia. Even then the quality is yet to excel.

2) Use of acrylic yarns has reduced the value of the products.

3) Weavers are bound to sell their products for low cost to the customers as well as weavers.

4) The products developed in this cluster have lost the essence of ethnicity of Assam. There is no difference between Naga products and products developed in this particular cluster.

5) No exposure and interaction with the market, no idea about the changing trends and demands, the only interaction they get is through the trader and rarely some tourist.

6) The weavers don’t store sample pieces with them, they do not have proper catalogue to show their customers.

7) Products made are similar in each and every house hold and local and main Guwahati market. There is no distinction between the products. Lots of traditional Gamosa are also imported from West Bengal and Tamil Nadu, which is leading for some serious competition between the local craftsmen and machine made products.

8) These traditional Products are rarely visible in outside North East Markets.

9) Today most of the traditional textiles are woven in acrylic due to its strength and cheap avail-ability, which is actually decresing the value of natural products. The weavers are unaware of its value in metro cities as well as international market.

OPPORTUNITIES

1) The Gamosa is an article of great significance for the people of Assam. Keeping the essence intact new designs can be made with quality, not only for the local market but for National and International level Markets.

2) Product diversification using traditional techniques, motifs and colours, which will establish their soul identity, as the products will not be manufactured elsewhere.

3) Selling their products directly to various stores apart from Handloom Houses and national em-poriums.

4) Providing them with natural and good quality raw materials. Encouraging the weavers to use more of silk and cotton, and also encouraging the cultivation of natural fibers and dyes. Increasing awareness amongst the weavers about the value of natural products in national as well as interna-tional market.


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H) Opportunity for packaging and storage design

ISSUES and CONCERNS

1) The textiles and other products produced in this cluster are not stored properly, where valuable silk and cotton pieces are getting damaged due to pests.

2) For packaging plastic bags are used.

3) They use plastic/ tissue bags as shopping bags

4) Products are mostly kept open with dust and cob webs accumulation

OPPORTUNITIES

1) New cost effective ways of packaging could be used, shopping bags either made of cloth or made by recycled waste.

2) Value added benefits for the cluster by developing eco friendly packaging system.

3) With new packaging system the value of the product will also increase with at competitive price.

4) Redesigning the entire storage system, making it pest and mositure protective.

Below: Kaziranga Haat, Bochagaon (used as store house for products made in the cluster)


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I) Organising cluster exhibition or display during tourist season

OPPORTUNITIES

1) Organising display containing works of various quality weavers during the tourist season, which will also bring in national as well as international buyers to its notice.

2) This will also give an opportunity to the weavers to create something new every time they have a display.

3) They will not be unemployed during off season, since these 6-7 months will go into developing new products.

4) These displays and exhibitions will also increase interaction among the weavers and their cus-tomers, which will further help them develop an understanding of the textile market and current demands.

5) IORA resort could be made an in house exhibition centre.

J) Design opportunity in working area

ISSUES and CONCERNS

1) Electricity is one concern for the weavers, who even if they want are not able to work after dark.

2) The shed heats up during summer cause of asbestos ceiling

3) The looms are either placed outside in veranda or placed inside. The rooms are small and tight just enough space for the looms to be setup inside.

OPPORTUNITIES

1) Developing environmentally friendly palm thatched shade structure or covering the entire asbestos roof with palm leaves. This will keep the room temperature lower than usual.

2) Solar lights can be introduced so that they can work in the evening also.


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Above: Inside of one of the weaver’s house, where the loom has been set up.


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RBH HANDLOOM

CLUSTER

ADVANCED SKILLDEVELOPMENT

WORKSHOPS

INTRODUCTION TODESIGN PROCESS

BASICTECHNICAL

SKILLS

AESTHETIC SENSIBILITY

BRANDING & COMMUNICATION

DESIGN

PRODUCTDIVERSIFICATION

EXPOSUREVISITS

WEEKLY/ MONTHLYINTERACTION SESSIONS

DESIGNSENSIBILITY

ENVIRONMENTAND HANDLOOM

PROPERWORKSTATION

QUALITYCONTROL

PACKAGINGDESIGN

NEWSTOREAGEFACILITY

UPGRADINGWORK SPACE

REUSE & RECYCLE WASTE MATERIALS

ENCOURAGE USE OF NATURAL FIBERS

EXISTINGFACTORS

NEWOPPORTUNITIES

SUSTAINABILITY

USE OF SOLAR ENERGY

TEMPERATURECONTROL DESIGNS

DESIGN OPPORTUNITIES

TIME MANAGEMENT


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CONCLUSION

The visit to Kaziranga RBH cluster in Golaghat district of Assam was a great experience and opened lot of doors towards the various issues concerning the development and benefits of the weavers, and various insights into their design sensibility, func-tioning and working of the entire work station and cluster itself.

The cluster is full of extensively skilled weavers who need an op-portunity to unleash design sensibility, communication and mar-keting skills. There is an infinite scope of new design developments which will help these weavers grow and build their own identity. Proper awareness amongst the weavers about their indigenous traditional textiles, and the value of natural fibres and colours in today’s market will open new doors to their thinking and approach.

A proper approach and execution in a planned manner can make this RBH handloom cluster a self sustained cluster. With proper input in designs and advanced skill development workshops con-ducted regularly will enhance their overhaul skills. More interac-tive sessions and regular exposure visits will develop a new value and importance towards quality products. It will also keep the weaver’s aware of cost and rising demands in today’s market and increase their value and respect within the society and traders they work with. More recreational activities apart from weaving will keep their interest for weaving alive.

Association with various textiles and handloom organisations within and in neighbouring states (NAGALAND, MIZORAM etc), collaborating with them, organising knowledge sharing work-shops will add on to the development of the weaver’s skill and knowledge. As well as tie-ups with national and international organisations, various craft councils and links with design experts will act as facilitator in their development.

With a combination of design, traditions and advance skills this cluster can make its own trademark in handloom sector, with their own identity. Developing new designs keeping the essence intact, with such prospects still there are a lot of scope of develop-ment and growth as mentioned in the report.

kaziranga rbh handloom clusterdesignclinicsmsme.org/design awareness programme reports... ·...

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