kcmuk428 fit cmt sep 22 (5)

Upload: ricardomuzanteparedes

Post on 03-Mar-2016

220 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

DESCRIPTION

fichas tecnicas textiles

TRANSCRIPT

  • DKNY JEANS- WOMEN'S KNITSHOLIDAY'10

    ATTENDEES AT FITTING:SAMPLE STATUS: Shannon, Mackensie1st proto COMMENTS ISSUED BY:APPROVED FIT DATE: FITTING DONE BY: FABRIC CONTENT: FACTORY: Mackensie

    4/29/2010 Elisa FIT MODEL: Anna 120gm 77/23 ctn/poly L&F HK - LaSpringTx 5/10/2010

    FITTING PHOTOS

    1) shoulder seam balance is off. Front and back panels have different slopes and are not meeting. Sample is falling to the back a lot.2) add 1/4" slv cap height and adjust cap width accordingly. Sleeve is fitting too tight3) increase slv length to 25"4) raise CB nk drop5) understand front hem will drape slightly longer than back hem, but sample is too drastic. Pls try to balance hems to be level6) sample is fitting too tight and underspec. increase chest and waist 1/2" to meet spec. increase sweep 1/2"7) move shirring seam at top to start at CF nk seam, not off-center

    Fit/ Aesthetic 8) add 1/4" knitted elastic facing from wearer's right armhole to bttm hem off-center9) reduce neck trim to 1/2" height. Need to reduce neck trim cut length to trim cinches into body. Sample neck trim is wavy and loose10) lower armhole to meet spec11) increase shoulder width, across front, and across back to meet spec

    Spec see reivsed spec pageMeasurement bring all measurements to meet specRevisions Pls note, I changed "how to measure" to be from HPS neck seam instead of nk edge

    1) increase slv lengthConstruction 2) add 1/4" faced knitted elastic across body from armhole to hem

    3) reduce nk trim height to 1/2"WorkmanshipComments 1st proto is aprvd with corrections. Submit SRS to Mary and 1st CS to Elisa. Pls mark and address samples accordingly.

    STYLE#:KCMUK428

    raise CB nk drop

    add 1/4" cap heightand adjust cap width

    neck trim is wavy and loose

    increase slv length

    add soft knitted elastic across body from armhole to bottom hem

    move top of shirring seam to start at CF nk seam

    shldr seam fallnig to the back

  • DKNY JEANS- WOMEN'S KNITSHOLIDAY'10

    ATTENDEES AT FITTING:SAMPLE STATUS: Shannon, Mackensie1ST CS ANN COMMENTS ISSUED BY:REJECTED FIT DATE: FITTING DONE BY: FABRIC CONTENT: FACTORY: Elisa

    7/12/2010 Elisa FIT MODEL: SUB 120gm 77/23 ctn/poly L&F HK - LaSpringTx 7/12/2010

    FITTING PHOTOS

    1) Shoulder seams are balanced2) Sleeves looks good 3) Neckline shape is okay. - Necktrim construction needs to be revised. We need a slit needle to hold down the bias cut trim.4) Cross body elastic stitch is now changing to 3 rows of smocking backed with elastic chain stitch for shirring effect.1/2" spacing between the stitch.5) Body width, Waist width and bottom sweep needs to be adjusted bigger as revised spec.

    Fit/ Aesthetic

    Spec see reivsed spec pageMeasurement bring all measurements to meet specRevisions

    Cross body stitch is now changing to 3 rows of smocking w/elastic chain stitch backing.Construction pls make sure to product enough shirring effect. Reference Fall 2010 s#KCMUK405 style.

    WorkmanshipComments 1st CS is rejected pls submit 2nd cs with corrections for approval

    STYLE#:KCMUK428

  • DKNY JEANS- WOMEN'S KNITS PAGE 1 of 2HOLIDAY'10

    ATTENDEES AT FITTING:SAMPLE STATUS: Shannon, Ann'1ST CS COMMENTS ISSUED BY:REJECTED FIT DATE: FITTING DONE BY: FABRIC CONTENT: FACTORY: Mackensie

    9/8/2010 Mackensie FIT MODEL: Anna 120gm 50/50 ctn/poly L&F GT - PPT 9/8/2010

    FITTING PHOTOS (see next page for more pictures)

    1) patterns are not balanced causing fit to be distorted. Pls correct patterns so all pieces are balanced - shoulder seams are not matching front to back - neck width and shoulder widths are not matching at shoulder seams frt/bk. Front panel is wider than back panel at shldr and neck widths - wearer's right front side seam length is longer than back side seam length. There is no shirring at side seams, so side seams need to balance. - shirring seams do not match - forward shoulder seams are uneven left to right on sample, need to correct to be the same - pls note, patterns have no seam allowance marked, so I am assuming a 3/8" seam allowance. Pls make sure seam allowances are marked2) armhole length is too long and sitting away from wearer. - correct shldr seam balance

    Fit/ Aesthetic - reduce armhole length to meet spec - saddle width on body is too narrow. Need to square off underarm and scoop out for more saddle width - slv underarm/saddle shape is too sloped and straight. Square off and scoop out underarm for saddle. Increase cap height 1/4"3) add cap width to top slv only. Cap width 2 1/2" down is ok as pattern. See photo4) move shirring seam toward CF 1/2" top to bottom. Seam should have shirring on both sides of seam. 5) smocking intensity is flat on sample. Need to increase smocking intensity for more shirring effect. See photo. Bottom hem should remain straight on flat6) smocking should have chainstitch on underside of fabric for better security. This is our smocking standard. 7) remove shirring on wearer's left front side seam. Side seams do not have any shirring8) reduce chest, waist, and sweep9) reduce slv opening10) fabric content is incorrect and stripe layout it incorrect. Pls discuss with design team for details.

    Spec see reivsed spec page. Pls note, some POMs have been added/changedRevisions bring all measurements to meet spec and within tolerance

    1) increase smcoking intensity. Smocking should have chainstitch on undersideConstruction 2) shirring seam needs to have shirring on both sides of seam.

    3) remove shirring at side seam.4) fabric and stripe layout are incorrect.

    STYLE#:KCMUK428

    increase smocking intensity as pinned, bottom hem needs to remain straight

    sample is pulling out at sides due to poor pattern balance. Must correct.

  • Workmanship 1) use chainstitch for smocking on undersideComments 1st CS is rejected due to incorrect fabric, poor pattern balance and poor ftg sample. Submit 2nd CS in correct fabric and all corrections made so I can

    properly evaluate sample. Will try to upgrade next sample

  • DKNY JEANS- WOMEN'S KNITS PAGE 2 of 2HOLIDAY'10

    ATTENDEES AT FITTING:SAMPLE STATUS: Shannon, Ann'1ST CS COMMENTS ISSUED BY:REJECTED FIT DATE: FITTING DONE BY: FABRIC CONTENT: FACTORY: Mackensie

    9/8/2010 Mackensie FIT MODEL: Anna 120gm 50/50 ctn/poly L&F GT - PPT 9/8/2010

    FITTING PHOTOS (see next page fore more pictures)

    STYLE#:KCMUK428

    smocking intensity is flat on sample.

    increase smocking intensity for more shirring effect and use chainstitch on underside.

    shirring seam is missing shirring on one side

    Move shirring seam toward CF 1/2" top to bottom. There should be shirring on both sides of shirring seam.

    square off and scoop out slv underarm for saddle. Saddle width needs to be increased on underarm body as well.

    increase slv cap height 1/4" and slv cap width at top only. Cap width 2 1/2" down from top is ok as pattern

  • reduce slv opening and straighten slv inseam

  • DKNY JEANS- WOMEN'S KNITSHOLIDAY'10

    ATTENDEES AT FITTING:SAMPLE STATUS: Shannon, Charles, Lady2nd CS COMMENTS ISSUED BY:APPROVED FIT DATE: FITTING DONE BY: FABRIC CONTENT: FACTORY: Mackensieupgraded to PPS 9/20/2010 Mackensie FIT MODEL: Anna 120gm 100% cotton L&F GT - PPT 9/20/2010

    FITTING PHOTOS

    1) sleeve cap height and width are too big for body armhole. Slv cap circumference and armhole circumference need to be equal for balance. Must correct - reduce cap height and width as shown in photo. Will need to add slv length at bottom to meet spec - underarm is winging out and sitting away from body. Reduce muscle on pattern to meet spec - reduce armhole length as revised spec - forearm is tight and under spec. increase to meet spec - slv pattern is missing notches. Need double notch for back and single notch for front. There should be 2slv patterns on bulk marker (cut 1 each) for front and back slv to be sewn correctly2) body length is 1" too long. Reduce to meet spec3) bottom sweep is stretched out and too big. Reduce to meet spec4) neckline is being distorted from shirring. Pls shave off about 3/8" on wearer's left

    Fit/ Aesthetic side for a round scoop shape5) pls make hem as straight as possible by shaving off from pattern.6) neckline stitches are tight. Pls adjust stitch tensions for maximum stretch

    Spec see revised spec pageRevisions bring all measurements to meet spec and stay within tolerance

    1) body length is too long, reduce to meet specConstruction

    Workmanship 1) adjust stitch tension for maximum stretch.Comments overall sample is much improved. 2nd CS is upgraded to PPS due to timing. Make all above pattern corrections and proceed to bulk

    STYLE#:KCMUK428

    slv cap is too big for armhole. Must correct slv cap circumference to equal armhole circumference neckline is distorted from shirring

    fullness. Shave off from pattern 3/8" on wearer's left side as shown

    cap height and width are too big for armhole and underarm is winging out. This is causing slv to sit away from body. Reduce cap height and width so slv circumference is the same to armhole circumference. Reduce muscle width on pattern to meet spec and scoop out underarm for saddle.orange line = back slvblue line = front slv

    1st proto - LST1st CS - LST1st CS - PPT1st CS - PPT picturesPeru 2nd CS fit photos2nd CS - PPT