khadi yarn knitting
TRANSCRIPT
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Knitting of Khadi Yarn
Material Description :-
Material was purchased from Dausa, Rajasthan.
Material used to manufacture the yarn is cotton.
The count of single yarn is27.2s(cotton count).Twist of yarn isS.Twist per inch of yarn is20.Lee strength of yarn is60.Count Strength Product is 1632.
Machines Description :-
1.a)Winding machine of spindle capacity 4.
b)Speed of the machine is 1400 rpm.
2.a)TFO of spindle capacity 12.
b)Spindle speed is 3500 rpm.
3.a)Single Jersy Knitting Machine.
b)Cone capacity of this machine is 36.
c)Speed of the machine is 10 rpm.
d)Gauge of the knitting machine is 20.
Process Description :-The yarn purchased from dausa was single yarn.
The purchased yarn was then wound to remove the observable faults likebigger knots,free ends, bigger thick place (slubs) & convert the bigger package
into smaller one. The cones were then used to manufactutre a knitted fabric.
But due to low strength & S twist yarn could not run on the knittingmachine.
There is the question that why S twist created a problem to runthe material. The main reason behind this is direction of rotation of the
machine needles. This direction rotates the yarn in clockwise direction. This
rotation weakens the yarn & this results yarn breakage.
To overcome the weakness problem of the yarn, the single yarn
then converted into plied yarn to provide Z twist. Plied yarn created anotherproblem of wraping one yarn on another. But plied yarn acquired more
strength to run. After that we used only two parallely wound yarn to overcome
the problem of wrap. Inspite of these trial thick place like slub is still the
problem.
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Problems faced :- Followings are the main problems faced during the
manufacturing process.
Breakage of yarn :- Vibration of two yarns at the top of the spindle of the
drum reduces the tension and due to lack of tension two yarns get separated
and one yarn gets accumulated around the other yarn and TFO does notprovide the proper tension in the region of accumulation. When this yarn
passes through the yarn guide the the accumulated place stops the furthure
movement of yarn and yarn breaks.
Two parallely wound yarn has not such type of problems. This also seizes the
rotation of the single yarn.
Fabric damage :- Any broken yarn if not sensed creates the bigger hole
untill the machine was not stopped and free ends joined. Longer thick places
also create bigger hole. Short thick places create smaller hole. The problems of
thick places can be overcomed by using the knitting machine of lower gauge.But due to bigger loop size fabric will not be good for application.
Higher Load on the knitting machine:- Thick places increase the load on
the moter so much that machine gets stopped untill the load is not reduced.
To tackle the above problems.
It is necessary to run the machine on low speed. Remove the thick places
stopping the machine. Use the double yarn well Z twisted plied yarn if singleyarn strength is not sufficient.
The reasons of thick places may be due to bad piecing, improper
draft, accumulation of short fibres on the yarn coming out of the front roller
delivery & flyes generated during the spinning and winding. So cleaning is also
necessary at certain time interval.
Chemacal Processing of Manufactured
Fabric
After removal the fabric from the machine. There are a lot off numbers of
stains of oil, grease, dust, dirt & touch of the hand and any dark spots. All
these defects are removed by scouring & bleaching process.
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Scouring of cotton fabric :- The process of scouring is applied to remove the oil,
grease and other lubricants presnt in the fabric.
Procedure of scouring :- Wet the fabric & deep into set bath. After running the
material for one hour, rinse the fabric and dry.
Recipe :-
Liquour ratio - 1: 10
Kaustic Soda (NaOH)- 4% by weight of material
Wetting Agent- 1%
Temperature- At boil
Time-1 hour
Bleaching of cotton fabric :- This process is applied to remove all the stains andimprove the whiteness of the fabric.
To keep the material soft the following recipe is applied.
pH-9
Amount of H2O2-4gpl
Stabiliser-0.5 gpl (i have not used this chemical)
Time-1.5 hrs-2hrs
Temperature- 90-95 degree celcius
Liquour ratio-1:10
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