kilgore trout

FORUM˜FALL 2011 UNHURRIED AND UNCOMMON SINCE 1977 KILGORETROUT.COM

REFLECTING ON FALL

INSPIRATION: IRELANDSTYLE MATTERS

CLOSET THERAPY

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ETON, 28601 Chagrin Blvd. Cleveland, OH 44122

216-831-0488 kilgoretrout.com

facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland

EDITOR-IN-CHIEFKaren Alberg Grossman

DESIGN DIRECTORHans Gschliesser

MANAGING EDITORJillian Sprague

PROJECT MANAGERLisa Montemorra

DESIGNERSCynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

CONCEPT DIRECTORSAndrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell

MERCHANDISING DIRECTORBob Mitchell

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTIONPeg Eadie

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESSHugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNAL S FASHION GROUPPUBLISHER

Stuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac BrightonCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CAHubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN

Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OHLarrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA

Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TXMario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WAMitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY

Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CTOak Hall MEMPHIS, TNRodes LOUISVILLE, KY

Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LAStanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER

STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2011. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS

JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175;

ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-

6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR

ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER

MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN

PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 14, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

FEATURES6 Welcome Letter 8 35th Anniversary: Time for a Double Take 34 Profile: Edward Armah36 Profile: A Decade of Agave 37 Flashback

FASHION14 Who is Kilgore Trout?38 Style: Trends for Men40 Wardrobe: Men’s Fashion in Film42 Life Is But a Dream48 Why Style Matters

DEPARTMENTS 30 Ask Forum for Him32 Ask Forum for Her 56 World Scene60 Wheels: Vintage Road Show 64 End Page: Closet Therapy

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Passion for Life15MilMil15 Suit


PERFECT FITTING JEANS SHOULDN’T BE A STRETCH

AVAILABLE AT KILGORE TROUT

MADE WITH REVOLUTIONARY 4-WAY STRETCH DENIM.

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TIME FOR A DOUBLE TAKE.

I’ve loved getting dressed up since high school, when Tim Taylor and I were famous for being a bit competitive in earning style points with the girls. Tim went on to become the Emmy award-winning anchorman; I followed suit and became the Esquire award-winning anchor merchant. That childhood relationship helped define us both. Thirty-five years later, one of the things I still love about this business —and Cleveland—is that we put a lot of stock into our relationships with one another. Lately, we’ve been cementing quite a few new ones here at the store. Our regular clients have no doubt met our terrific new associates, Paula and Joe. Both have stellar credentials and they share a passion for their customers. They’ve fit seamlessly into the Kilgore Trout culture and have quickly become integral to our team of committed pros. And every day, we’re meeting clients—many for the first time—who are discovering that, even at 35, Kilgore Trout is the clothing store of choice, in the location of choice, with relationships at the core. Whether you’ve been with us for 35 years or 35 days, we thank you, and we promise to continue doing all we can to build our relationship. We all look forward to your next visit.

Art Direction/Design Christopher Hixson Photography Ted Sikora Makeup The Powder Room Hair Studio MZ

Three-and-a-half decadesand still having fun

in the name of fashion

WALLY NAYMON SHOPKEEPER


JOE AUGUSTINE Joe may be the new guy, but his style pedigree runs deep. With over 20 years as a buyer and seller with some of the greatest men’s stores in the country (James Davis in Memphis, Andrisen Morton in Denver, and Boyds of Philadelphia), Joe has the goods and is quickly developing a following.

JOE SAYS:

“The foundation of a great wardrobe will always be the jacket, and more importantly, its precise tailoring—fitting perfectly to your body and to your personality.

“After the jacket, it’s all in the details—style-defining touches that speak to you. For me this fall, it’s Edward Armah’s pocket circles, V.K. Nagrani’s fabulously frivolous socks, and the glimpse of selvage on the up-turned cuff of the jean (authentic Japanese denim, of course).

“My advice? When standing, ALWAYS wear your jacket buttoned. If it’s property fitted, it’ll take off 15 pounds and will make the difference between simply wearing a nice jacket and being well-dressed.”

LAURA MAROTTA Laura’s kids are now 7, 10 and 13—the younger two timed flawlessly with both of our remodelings 7 and 10 years ago. She’s been taking great care of Kilgore Trout clients since 1988, and she keeps her fingers crossed that we’re not planning a renovation any time soon.

LAURA’S ADVICE:

“The most important accessory a woman can have is self-confidence . Then, find your own personal style at a store where your sales associates will be honest with you.“Must-haves for fall? Cute dresses, a great trench, and a fabulous laser-cut leather hobo bag!”


KRISTIN BONECUTTER As a graduate of Kent State University’s School of Fashion Merchandising (where Kilgore Trout sponsors a scholarship), Kristin came into our business...shall we say...the scholarly way. Unlike some of us who started as toddlers in the rag trade, Kristin developed her passion for fashion by design, and has honed a sharp sense of style, knowledge of the trends, and a keen sense of how to pull together just the right look.

KRISTIN’S ADVICE:

“Wear what looks good on your body, and be sure to have honest friends and clothing consultants help you know the difference!”

PAULA BRADLEY Paula may be one of our freshest faces, but she’s been just up the road at a certain national retailer for over 13 years, where she was consistently recognized for extraordinary achievement and performance as an Ermenegildo Zegna specialist. Paula is a graduate of the Fashion Institute, and spent a good part of her career in Los Angeles, catering to the celebrity set.

PAULA’S ADVICE:

“Wear what works, and if it happens to align with a trend, great! But if not, don’t worry. Style is personal. And personally, I love the continued emphasis on great tailored fit, plus men who are not afraid to add a little color to their wardrobes, and of course, that classic French cuff shirt!”

TIME FOR A DOUBLE TAKE.


SANDY HOSSACK Sandy’s start in fashion came at her mother’s Philadelphia handbag store when she was just 16, and she first started inspiring Kilgore Trout women’s shop clients over 18 years ago in our first women’s store.

SANDY SAYS:

“Accessorize. And if something doesn’t feel good the minute you try it on, don’t buy it! There’s nothing worse than a beautiful article of clothing spending a lifetime in a closet that should be filled with things we adore wearing.”

CHERYL MACMASTER The personal attention that Cheryl has

been providing to her roster of devoted Kilgore Trout clients since before the turn of the millenium has few limits. She’s the type who’ll go to the ends of the earth to get you that shirt you forgot to bring along for the big meeting or the great suit that you didn’t think you could track down in your size.

CHERYL’S ADVICE FOR GUYS:

“Every guy, even the most casual, ought to have a navy or black sportcoat, a navy and gray suit, and a great selection of shirts. A hot little sports car is always a good accessory, too.”


ANDREA NAYMON As our women’s store buyer, Andrea searches

the markets and showrooms for just the right mix of clothing, sportswear and

accessories for the ladies who depend on Kilgore Trout for uncommon and fresh finds, season after season. She’ll always give our customer ‘first dibs’ on the good stuff—but she’s been known to keep a classic or two for herself.

ANDREA’S ADVICE (ON WALLY):

“Trust me. He’s a day older.”

JOEL STECKER Joel’s pretty fond of his slogan that dates from the ’ 60s (and rumor has it originated as a policy at Solomon Brothers with Michael Bloomberg as an ardent devotee). For Joel, it’s British-inspired style with a modern twist. And Yiddish for his sharp sense of humor and always making even the mundane seem fun. With three decades of luxury menswear experience in Cleveland, Joel’s desire to make your Kilgore Trout experience a memorable one is paramount. He’s been our director of outside sales for a few years, and now his full-time presence in the store lets clients know that Kilgore Trout is always open for business.

JOEL’S ALWAYS A WALKING BILLBOARD:

Samuelsohn MTM jacket, Etro tie, Kilgore Trout custom shirt, To Boot New York suede shoes, V.K. Nagrani socks, John Varvatos belt, Edward Armah pocket square.


HE’S ELUSIVE AND ENIGMATIC...

A creation from the mind of exalted experimental science fiction writer

Kurt Vonnegut and the namesake of our fine clothing establishment,

Kilgore Trout is (as Vonnegut later recounted) “the only character I

ever created who had enough imagination to suspect that he might be

the creation of another human being. He had spoken of this possibility

several times to his parakeet.”

Kilgore Trout was born of American parents on Bermuda, and attended

grammar school there until his father’s job with the Royal Ornithological

Society terminated. The family moved to Dayton, and thereafter, he

wandered around the country, working at menial low-paying jobs

and writing science fiction in his spare time. He has been married and

divorced three times, and has written one hundred seventeen novels

and two thousand short stories. Yet until recently he was little known

due to his extreme reclusivity and his indifference to the publication of

his stories.

Here we explore the psyche of Kilgore Trout, sharing things his parakeet

knew, but even his creator did not.

(adapted from Vonnegut’s Venus on the Half Shell)

CREATIVE DIRECTOR CHRISTOPHER HIXSON PHOTOGRAPHY ANDREW MCALLISTER

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KILGORE TROUT?

Tartan plaid velvet blazer, pure cotton shirt

and jeans, all by Sand. Pure silk tie by Charvet.


Kilgore Trout is a refined gent

who loves rock ‘n roll.

Star USA by John Varvatos leather hooded field jacket and crinkle cotton shirt.


Autumn Cashmere vintage rugby crewneck and

ombre stripe half-zip sweaters. All jeans by PRPS:

raw, distressed and vintage denim.


Above: Handbag and shoulder bag from Linea Pelle in

crimson garment washed Italian leather.

Left: Gimo’s winter coat for her in champagne nylon.

Right page, from left: Haute Hippie gray cotton graphic

“Strange Trip” pocket tee and “I need a moment” tee,

Haute Hippie gray knit wool fringe vest, Line “Folklore”

wrap in gray.


Kilgore Trout loves a woman who doesn’t send mixed messages.


White and Warren purple cashmere cable knit dress

worn with Etro scarf.

Etro “Hi-Lo” corduroy blazer and pure cotton shirt.


From Left: Belstaff wool knit blazer-style outerwear with zip inset, Diesel toggle coat, Allegri “Rain Cashmere” weather-proof coat

with removable insert, Kilgore Trout tweed jacket with removable suede insert, Stone Island technical stretch hip-length jacket.

Kilgore Trout always attempts to outsmart the prognosticators.

deal of thepre-season

$44990after 10/1 it’ll

be $595


Above: Robert Comstock ultra-lite Spanish merino shearling

hip-length jacket and half-zip cashmere sweater. Etro jean.

Right: Luciano Barbera wool herringbone jacket, cashmere

sweater and cotton shirt. Incotex plaid trouser in wool.

Below: Boglioli unlined vintage washed wool jacket.


Kilgore Trout often throws on a cardigan

and he periodically throws back a martini.

Her: Multi-colored “Keith” sweater by Line, Linea Pelle vintage

belt, DL1961 “Joy” stretch twill super high-rise flare jean.

Him: Diesel lightweight tweed cardigan sweater, AG Adriano Goldschmied Protege corduroy jean in sulfur.“ ”


W.R.K. stands for “Work. Rest. Karma.” A new collection of sportswear imbued with tech,

function, and fashion. From left: V-neck cashmere/wool stripe sweater, shawl collar

jacket, knit trouser, and pure cotton shirt. Longshoreman’s style wool cap by Wigens.


W.R.K. lined technical jacket with

dedicated zipped storage for cell, iPad,

e-reader, and a host of devices that are

too smart for their own good.

Kilgore Trout loves smart clothing for guys with smart devices.


Elizabeth and James “Paulina” dress, DL1961 premium four-way

stretch waxed cotton “Emma” jean in black, Melissa “vegan” shoe.


Kilgore Trout is intrigued by a woman who keeps him guessing.

Crossley cotton and wool “Yoyo” tank dress,

Bell plaid cotton flannel belted shirt dress.


Kilgore Trout wants his wardrobe to always suit his mood.

Above and opposite page:

Left: “Z” Zegna gray plaid suit, Robert Talbott Estate plaid cotton shirt,

PRPS jean. Raffi half-zip cashmere sweater,

Center: Ermenegildo Zegna peak lapel navy chalk stripe suit,

lavender check cotton shirt, Sand jean., Robert Talbott Carmel argyle sweater

Right: Samuelsohn chalk stripe suit, Eton of Sweden cotton stretch shirt, Raffi

merino wool V-neck sweater with contrast sleeve, “Z” Zegna slim-fit black jean.

Below: A collection of pocket rounds by Edward Armah.

Smart winter gear isn’t just

outerwear. This Samuelsohn

travel blazer with stain resistant

and waterproof Loro Piana storm

system technology stays crisp

and dry when you’re caught in

an unexpected moment while

traveling or in Cleveland’s ever-

changing weather.

1great suit that wears as separates.1perfectly fitting jean. 1shirt that moves from business to pleasure.1luxurious and layerable sweater.

Swap thetrousers forthe day’smeetings

Wear thesuit coat

as asport jacket

Layer thesweater for

a cool eveningon the town

Jeans forcomfort onthe plane

Ermenegildo Zegna


Kilgore Trout is the master of his domain.

kilgoretrout.com


Q:My girlfriend has been buying mescarves but I have no idea how to

wear them. Are they in style?Yes, more than ever! Whether cashmere or wool, bulkyhand knits or fine gauge with fringe, bright solids or pat-terned alpine designs, a scarf is the easiest way to addpersonality to your look. The trick to wearing them: don’toverthink it! Just wrap your favorite scarf around yourneck a few times, or try the European way: fold a longscarf in half, drape it around your neck, and pull the endsthrough the loop. Voila! Instant panache. And don’t waitfor the snowstorms: a beautiful scarf is a great fashionaccent, whatever the weather.

Q:Magazines show bright colorpants, yet on the streets, most

guys wear jeans or khakis. What’s upwith the color? Bright colors (best in slim five-pocket models) are defi-nitely a new direction for men’s trousers, most popularwith contemporary customers and guys with self-confi-dence. If you dare, give them a try: color is fun, mood-ele-vating and not all that hard to wear. (Nantucket red hasbeen a staple in New England for decades...) If you’re notso bold, try the new five-pocket models in neutral shades,in non-denim fabrics like brushed twill and corduroy.With more options than ever in casual trousers, there’s noneed to be boring—or bored.

Q:Why buy clothing in a specialtystore when so much is available

online?While shopping online can be tempting, there are manycaveats. First of all, not all designers produce the samequality goods for all accounts. So a designer polo from aflash sale or discount site or outlet store might be a differ-ent weight or color than the “same” designer polo in anupscale store. Second, at independent specialty stores likeours, you work with store owners and trained tailors andwardrobe consultants whose reputation depends on mak-ing you look terrific. Most also offer free closetmakeovers: they’ll come to your home, sort through yourcloset and update your wardrobe with a new piece or twoto bring it all together. In addition, store owners standbehind their product, so you’ll never get stuck with animpulse-purchase-gone-wrong.

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Q:I wear jeans almost everywhere, butwish I had alternatives. Can you

recommend some other stylish options? Colored denim is the way to go for fall 2011. Not yourtypical jeans, the new colored denim adds personality toall kinds of tops and jackets. We love a bright jean(preferably skinny ankle length with heels or boots)worn with a contrasting bright top, or else with neutrals.As for your regular blue denim jeans, slim is still in butso are wide legs and flares. You really need both stylesthis season.

Q:I own a few scarves but am not surehow to wear them. Any ideas?

Scarves and shawls are bigger than ever for fall 2011, incashmere, silk and blends. Fold a large square diagonal-ly and drape it around your shoulders. (Keep one in yourhandbag if you tend to get cold.) Or take a long oblong,fold it in half and put the ends through the loop (veryEuropean) or else wrap it a few times around your neckor waist, or even your handbag. Stop by and we’d behappy to demonstrate. And while you’re here, check outour newly arrived scarves in fabulous colors and tex-tures. With a simple top and trousers, the scarf makesthe outfit (and makes a perfect gift if you’re unsure ofsizes)!

Q:Are leggings still in style? (I see somany women wear them who

shouldn’t...)Most definitely yes! Leggings are a great way to add ayouthful flair to almost any outfit. They make maturewomen look young and chic, they cover winter-whitelegs when there’s no time to get a tan, and they’re gener-ally very slimming.

Our main caveat: leggings are not pants! Make sureto wear a long enough top so that your derrière is com-pletely covered. If you don’t own the right long tops(and there are plenty of gorgeous ones in our store forfall), you can wear your leggings with a flowy dress oreven a pencil skirt and high-heeled wedges. In fact,good-quality leggings make everything you own lookjust a little more hip.

Come into the store and we’ll be happy to show you.

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go tofacebook.com/etonofsweden

tell us your favorite thing about Kilgore Trout and

be automatically entered into a drawing for a $500

eton shopping spree.

fine shirt maker since 1928

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dward Armah is not your typical fashion designer. Born inGhana (his dad was a civil servant, his mom had a clothingbusiness), he studied economics and political science butdropped it all for sewing school. (Needless to say, his family wasnot thrilled…) He spent some time in London working onJermyn Street where he mastered the art of English sartorialdressing (“it’s all about proportion”), then came to the Statesand studied tailoring. Working at an exclusive department store,

Armah would get more compliments on the clothes he was wearing, par-ticularly his colorful bowties and pocket squares, than on the clothes hewas selling. So with a little help from his friends, he quit his day job andlaunched his own business, patenting an ingeniously engineered silkbowtie that can be worn four different ways (and is uniquely shaped for afuller bow).

His bowties and pocket squares (that he first made in the basement ofhis house in New Jersey) were an instant hit, but Armah longed to createsomething different. On a whim, he once wore a lace doily in his pocketand got barraged with compliments. So he made up a few pocket “circles”and a new business was born. Today, he produces about 500 pocket cir-cles a week, all made by artisans in NYC. Linen was hot this summer; forfall 2011, he’s using Italian silk and cashmere/wool, and fringed edges.

When he’s not traveling around the country to the finest stores inAmerica, Armah loves spending time with his wife and 18-month-old son,Manasse. He’s also very involved with organizations like Big BrothersBig Sisters, where he teaches school-age kids to follow their dreams.

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POCKET CIRCLES (ANDBOWTIES) ARE THE NEWFOOLPROOF WAY TODRESS FASHIONABLY. BY KAREN ALBERGGROSSMAN

DON’T BESQUARE

A pocket circleadds instant cooland charisma toyour sportcoat.(And you can’tpossibly fold itwrong!)

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“THE ACCESSORIESMAKE THE SUIT,”SAYS DESIGNER

EDWARD ARMAH.

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y mission 10 years ago was to make the best jeans inthe world; that’s still our mission today,” assertsAgave founder Jeff Shafer. “We started with eightjeans; last year we did $11 million in sales, a recordfor us, just in men’s. My wife Lauren (who retiredfrom the business 16 years ago to raise our sonJacob) is back as designer of women’s. We’ve

become a true luxury label focused on USA-madequality product.”

How do you compete with bigger brands?I knew the secret of making the best jeans was inthe denim. I found the best denims from boutiquemills in Japan. I focused on fabric and fit, partner-ing with a Japanese jeans manufacturer with pro-duction and laundry in L.A. that made jeans forLevi’s. They knew how to make a jean authentical-

ly and accurately. Agave stands for the highestquality jeans, made authentically in the USA.

Our customers know this and appreciate our commitment.

How tough is it to work with your spouse?I wouldn’t be a designer today if it weren’t for Lauren. Twocompanies ago we started working together: I was theowner and she was doing production. We hit tough timesand had to let our designer go, and Lauren encouraged meto do the design myself; she actually taught me how. I

found my passion thanks to Lauren and I’ve been trying toget her back to work with me for a long time. Last September,

our son Eli started high school and she finally agreed. Here’s why it works: We are equals; we trust each other and don’t

compete with one another. We try not to discuss work at home.

We have the same taste level but complementary skills. Weshare values, integrity and the same commitment to quality.

What’s the next big thing in denim for fall 2011?The news is COLOR in bottoms, not just shades of indigo,black and gray, but brown, olive and camel. The other excite-ment is alternative weaves (twills, cords, etc.) in five-pocketmodels, washed down to a beautiful patina.

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Above: Jeff andLauren ShaferLeft: Items fromAgave’s men’sand women’s fallcollections

A DECADE OF AGAVE

AUGUST 2012 WILLMARK THE 10-YEAR

ANNIVERSARY OFAMERICA’S COOLEST

DENIM. BY KARENALBERG GROSSMAN

Join us forAgave Denim +Tesla Motorspresented byKilgore TroutSaturday,9.24.11Details at kilgoretrout.com

28 KILGORE_ Profile_Agave_.qxp:Profile_Agave 8/5/11 9:28 AM Page 36

SHOULDN’T THIS STUFF BE IN THE SMITHSONIAN?

flash

back

It may be an oversight, so for now, 35 years of Kilgore Trout history keeps gathering dust in Wally’s office.

We know you need your clothes to last beautifully, so we take exquisite care of every piece of your wardrobe with expert spot removal, hand finishing, personal inspection, and the most advanced eco-friendly cleaning system in Ohio.

Call London and relax...We’ll take it from here.

800.832.1222londoncleaners.com

With London Cleaners, valet pick-up and delivery service isn’t an extra, it’s a keystone of our commitment to superior service. No minimum order. No need to be home.i ’ i ’ k f i


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FALL AND WINTER ARE JUSTHEATING UP. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

The runways of Milan, New York and Parisshowcase fashion at its most extravagant.Limited edition wool suits and belts made from the mostexotic skins were paraded out to cause a stir—and itworked.

Thankfully there’s more to menswear than one-offpieces singularly designed with connoisseurs in mind.This fall, men’s clothing and accessory makers have creat-ed some of their most varied and versatile collections tomeet the everyday needs of the stylish modern man. Sharpsuits and sportcoats in a rich array of autumnal colors andtweedy textures, sporty jackets made of weatherproofmaterials, big bold knits in solids and multi-hued varia-tions, and even a resurgence of cashmere, corduroy andcamel hair are wearable and on-trend. So whether you’relounging around the house, dashing to the office, going fora weekend road trip, or preparing for that big formal affair,this fall’s offerings have you covered.

A patternedsportcoat can bedressed up ordown, and adouble-breastedcamel peacoatsatisfies threetrends in one.

TRENDSFORMEN

style

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DUAL-PURPOSE Perfect for the office inclassic pinstripes or subtle windowpanepatterns, these same jackets come alive atnight when paired with casual slacks andjeans, coincidentally the way most realmen now define weekend wear. If youwant to try something new, check out thisyear’s crop of double-breasted jackets, orDBs, as they’re known. Nearly everydesigner from Armani to Zegna is bank-ing on double-breasted suits playing astarring role in men’s wardrobes, this falland beyond. To that end, double-breastedjackets come in many variations, from low

four-button models with soft shouldersand very straight lapels to serious, mili-tary-inspired high six- and even eight-button, peak lapel jackets with strongshoulders and streamlined waists. Manyof these shapes also carry over into outer-wear and sportcoats.

SWEET PEAS The pea coat originated inthe 18th century, when the durable jacketswere used to clothe sailors and other mili-tary personnel who found the “pij” materi-al (from the Dutch word pijjekker mean-ing twilled cloth) used to make themincredibly warm. Modern menswear mak-ers could not have foreseen record coldtemperatures across the globe when theydeveloped their own versions of thesehearty coats, but rest assured that thedouble-breasted toppers are ready towork double duty when necessary.

STRIKE A CORD Corduroy comes in manysizes—from pinwale to extra wide wale—and this season top brands like Belvest,Kiton, Zegna, Loro Piana and Canali haveemployed the time-honored ribbed clothin everything from jeans, jackets andsport shirts to outerwear, blazers, andeven tailored clothing. Pinwale corduroyin a cotton/cashmere blend is HugoBoss’s top dog this season, while cash-mere kingpin Brunello Cucinelli prefersbrushed corduroy for his quilted coats.

OUT OF THE DESERT Few items in a man’swardrobe have ever been more luxuriousthan a camel top coat. Now that familiartopper—a staple of 1930s and 1940sHollywood royalty—has been reinterpret-ed in everything from car coats and high-waisted trousers to sportcoats and evenfull camel hair (or colored) suits.Designers as diverse as Hermès, Giorgio

Armani, Tom Ford and ErmenegildoZegna offered just a preview of the fullcamel stampede to come this winter.

TECHNO? TECH YES! Remember Zegna’simaginative I Jacket with its built-intouch control panel at the cuff, allowingone to interface with his iPod withouttouching it? Or how about Loro Piana’sinnovative Storm System technology,which renders even the most opulent fab-rics like superfine wool and cashmerewater repellent? Those brilliant ideashave come full circle and spawned awhole generation of high tech, high stylegarments. Whether it’s a polyester andnylon jacket that actually breathes as thetemperature rises, or a top coat designedwith touch technology that lets you hideyour electronics and control them remote-ly, this season, it’s high style to wearsomething high tech.

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Technicallyspeaking... Thiswool and down

jacket offersThermore

insulation andtaped seams for

waterproofperformance.

>> THIS SEASON, IT’S HIGH STYLE TO WEAR SOMETHING HIGH TECH.

28 KILGORE_Style_Trends for Men.qxp:Style 7/20/11 1:14 PM Page 39

ward

robe

1941Humphrey Bogart in The Maltese FalconDetective Sam Spade: cunningsleuth, dapper dresser

1962Sean Connery in Dr. NoA rare casual moment for 007, who dons a tuxedomore often than not. Whatever the occasion, hisfirearm (in this case, a Smith & WessonCentennial Airweight) is never far from sight.

1974Robert Redford in The Great GatsbyRalph Lauren outfitted theentire cast for the movieadaptation of F. ScottFitzgerald’s classic novel.

1959Cary Grant in North by Northwest Proof positive that youcan still look puttogether and polishedwhile running from thebad guys.

70 YEARS OF CINEMATIC STYLE BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

40

28 KILGORE_Wardrobe_Mens Fashion in Film.qxp:Wardrobe 8/5/11 9:28 AM Page 40

1980John Belushi and Dan Akroyd in TheBlues Brothers

1994Jim Carrey and JeffDaniels in Dumb and Dumber

2007Rowan Atkinsonin Mr. Bean’sHoliday

SUITS CAN’T SAVE YOU NOWTHESE MEMORABLE MOVIE GOOFBALLSPROVE THAT YOU CAN DRESS THEM UP, BUTYOU CAN’T TAKE THEM OUT.

1987Michael Douglas in Wall StreetFat ties—and fat wallets—epitomized the1980s. The pleated pants popular thenare just starting to reappear on runways,but haven’t yet made it mainstream.

2001George Clooney and Brad Pitt inOcean’s ElevenUnbuttoned elegance as the bigscreen’s most charismatic criminals

1992The cast of Reservoir DogsThese guys were ahead of the trend in slim suits and ties. 2011

The cast of The Adjustment BureauWhile overcoats and fedoras are classics,the style in multiples is downrightintimidating. These men mean business!

1980Richard Gere in American GigoloArmani became a household nameafter outfitting gigolo Julian in hissignature suits.

41

28 KILGORE_Wardrobe_Mens Fashion in Film.qxp:Wardrobe 7/20/11 2:13 PM Page 41

Fall 2011 has us dreamingabout texture... lush knits,comfy cashmeres, velvety cords. So many soft ways to stay warm this fall...

life is but a

PHOTOGRAPHY: Sergio Kurhajek | STYLING: Wendy McNett | HAIR & MAKEUP: Claire Bailey

Kilgore_IrelandFash.indd 42Kilgore_IrelandFash.indd 42 7/20/11 5:16 PM7/20/11 5:16 PM

DDDDDDDDDRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEAAAAAAAMMMMMMMMMM AAAAAAAA LLLLLLLIIIIIITTTTTTTTTTTTTTLLLLLLLEEEEEEE DDDDDDDRRRRRRREEEEEEEAAAAAAAAMMMMMMMMM OOOOOOOOOOOOFFFFFFFFFFFF........


WHYSTYLE MATTERSMaking a good impressionhas never been more important. Nor has it ever been easier!

Studies show that well-dressed

men get higher paying jobs, enjoy

better social status and are more

attractive to the opposite sex.

Here are some simple tips on

how to spruce up your look,

because yes, style matters!

Kilgore_Style MattersK.indd 48Kilgore_Style MattersK.indd 48 8/4/11 5:58 PM8/4/11 5:58 PM

BUILDING A GREATWARDROBE IS SIMPLERTHAN YOU THINK.

1. Dressy Casual 2. Sartorial 3. Sporty Casual

simple updates forall your modes...

WITH A FEW NEW BASICS, A WONDERFUL

FOUNDATION (AND BETTER FIRST IMPRESSIONS)

CAN BE BUILT.


Plaid ClassicA great neutral

plaid adds instant

style to a pair of

jeans and moves

gracefully from

offi ce to dinner.

Color StatementA bolder plaid

in rich fall colors

adds excitement

to solid basics and

layers well with

sweaters.

THE ESSENTIAL SPORTCOATTHE MVP OF DRESSY CASUAL

Dressy Casual

No single item is more effective in transforming

a man’s wardrobe than the sportcoat. It makes

a man look “dressed,” while enhancing and

concealing all the right body parts...


UnconstructedA soft, unlined

jacket is an

indispensible

basic this season.

It looks casually

elegant and fi ts like

a second skin!

CollegiateCorduroyToasty warm and

versatile, corduroy

has come back

with a vengeance.

Soft CashmereUnconstructed

and elegant,

it works with dress

pants, jeans and

everything in

between.


The IntellectualAdd a sweater

to a windowpane

wool suit for a

super smart look.

The Young TurkA well-cut dark

suit can take you

everywhere... and

a great wool tie is

an easy way to add

some personality.

The PlayerA fun shirt (without

a tie) with an open

suit jacket is a

refreshing upgrade

to jeans.

Sartorial

FITThe NewTSlimmerTSilhouetteTis hereTto stayTFrom a fi rst interview to the corner offi ce,

one properly fi tting neutral suit in a transitional

fabric is an essential basic for the well-

dressed man.

(NEW)


The StatesmanHerringbone in

warm fall tones

plus a buttoned

vest spells

confi dence.

The MogulNavy pinstripe

suit, blue shirt,

red tie, slim cut...

need we say

more?

whichSUITSyou?


Sporting Event With ClientA quilted, fi tted,

double-breasted

jacket is as warm

as it is fl attering.

Weekend OutingCold, blustery

days can be faced

in style with an

elegant update to

the classic parka.


Soccer SidelinesThrow a great

scarf over a

versatile pullover

and be the best

looking dad

on the fi eld.

Country DriveGo antiquing and

lunching in style in

a chocolate suede

driving jacket,

also perfect for

everyday.

Sporty Casual

RELAXEDSTYLE

Whether it’s

the weekend,

or you just

want it to

feel that way.


56

COLD COMFORTA

s cold weather approaches, ‘tis time forwinter sports, a cozy new coat and aheart-warming cocktail. After ice skating,

cross country skiing or snowshoeing at theLake Placid Lodge in New York’s Adirondackmountains, guests keep out the chill with thehotel’s winter drink, the Barkeater. BartenderLori Kudelski, who created the Barkeater,shares the recipe for this snug concoction.Ingredients: 1 oz. vanilla vodka, 1 oz.Frangelico, 1 oz. Amaretto, a splash of NewYork State maple syrup, and 4 oz. cream. Mixvodka, Amaretto, Frangelico and maple syrupin a shaker, then pour over ice in an old fash-ioned glass. Top with cream and garnish witha mint leaf. Cheers!L

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World Scene

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Experience life’s little luxuries. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

Afew steps behind the Kapsaliana Village there’s an ancient olive tree. It stands alone, determinedly rooted into a slightrise. From here, the view stretches across the largest olive grove on Crete, over a lush valley, to the sea. The scene isquiet and stunningly beautiful. Originally home to a thriving olive press worked by monks (the historic Arkadi

monastery is nearby), the settlement was gradually abandoned after the press was closed in 1955. Today, under the brillianttuteledge of architect Myron Toypoyannis, Kapsaliana Village has been rebuilt and restored and named a member ofHistoric Hotels of Greece. The age-old architecture is combined with modern comforts. Twelve guest houses, hewn from theoriginal dwellings, are set on cobblestone alleys. The olive press is now a museum. The restaurant offers superb traditionalCretan food, and there’s a luxurious swimming pool. But most of all, there’s an atmosphere of tranquility and seclusion, as iftime had paused to offer visitors a few moments of complete serenity.

GREEK REVIVAL

28 KILGORE_World Scene.qxp:World_Scene 8/5/11 11:08 AM Page 56

F A L L 2 0 1 1

c o p p l e y . c o m

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58

COUNTRY CHICI

n the Kentucky countryside not far from Lexington, there’s a historic eight-room house. Originally named Bellevue, it was built in 1779 by Colonel JohnBowman (the state’s first military governor) for his wife, Elizabeth. Now, it’s

the home of Jayne Thompson Antiques, decorated with a lavish collection ofEnglish and Italian furniture and accessories. The shop is so popular withantiques aficionados, collectors often fly in (there’s a nearby private airport) toshop. For visitors with an urge to experience a more gracious time, JayneThompson will also arrange a dinner. Catered by Debbie Long of Dudley’sRestaurant in Lexington, the meal is prepared from seasonal ingredients andpaired with appropriate wines. It’s served either in the home’s stunning diningroom filled with antiques, or on the lawn, where the hostess places 18th-centu-ry Windsor chairs and a 17th-century oak farm table, set with EnglishIronstone china.

GILT TRIPA

long with golf, rock climbing and fly fish-ing, guests of The Broadmoor Hotel at thefoot of the Rockies in Colorado Springs

can go for the gold. The sparkling festivitiesbegin in a chauffeured Hummer (gold-fleckedhandcrafted chocolates and a bottle ofChampagne are provided), which brings you tothe Money Museum. Here, caterers serve din-ner in the Bass Gallery, where over $20 milliondollars worth of paper money and rare coins,including the most comprehensive collectionof American gold coinage in existence, isstored. Between courses, the curator of themuseum joins guests and passes around sever-al million dollars in coins and notes. TheBroadmoor’s wealthy revelry culminates at thehotel bar with chocolate sorbet decorated with 18K gold leaf, created by executive restaurant pastry chef Rémy Fünfrock, and director ofwine Tim Baldwin opens a bottle of Moët & Chandon, Cuvée Dom Perignon Oenothèque, 1966.

MO

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EU

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A STRETCHOF BEACHA

mong the many trendy—and usuallypricey—goings-on in Miami, there’s onevery stylish event that’s amazingly inex-

pensive. For just $5, residents and visitors,serious yoga practitioners and first timersalike, can join certified instructors for “BeachYoga at 3rd Street, Miami Beach.” This ulti-mate South Beach insider happening, whichattracts vacationing Broadway stars and fash-ion editors, among others, has been meetingevery day at sunrise and sunset for the past 12years. Take water and a towel, and spend anhour reaching new horizons.

DJO

RD

JE

IS

HE

RE

/ C

LIC

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TU

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28 KILGORE_World Scene.qxp:World_Scene 8/5/11 11:09 AM Page 58

D i e s e l I s l a nd ´ s S t u p id Con s t i tu t i on i s b e ing wr i t t en . L earn more a t die se l . com

Kilgore Ads.indd 059Kilgore Ads.indd 059 7/21/11 8:56 AM7/21/11 8:56 AM

It all started earlyone Saturday, when mybest friend showed up at myhouse driving his uncle’s 1959Austin Healy Sprite. He parked itoutside my bedroom window andblasted its air horn, promptingme to vault three feet out of bed.We spent the day driving aroundBoston in the coolest car I hadever been in, and I promisedmyself right then that when Iwas old enough to drive, I wouldbuy a British sports car. The daycame shortly after my sixteenthbirthday, and nothing was thesame again for me. I now have ahumble collection of these won-derful cars and drive them as

often as possible.There are many extraordinary

automobile museums around theworld, but also numerous privatecollectors whose magnificent carsare worth fortunes. Perhaps theyalso had friends who introducedthem to the world of classic cars.Or it may have simply been themajesty of the machines thatinspired them to covet and collectthese amazing vehicles.

One such man is Richard Myers,a former math teacher turnedEuropean car dealer who is nowretired and lives in New Jerseyand Rhode Island. A collector ofvintage cars for over 40 years, his38 classics include some very rare

machines. Like me, his first was anMGA that he bought while in col-lege. Back then British sports carswere relatively new to the areawhere he lived, so he soon learnedhow to do mechanical repairs onhis own. He has always consideredthese beautiful cars not just trans-portation, but rolling works of art.After college, he bought andrestored a Jaguar, followed byRolls Royces and Bentleys, whichhe fixed up and sold for profit.After a while he realized that he nolonger wanted to sell the cars herestored, and his classic car collec-tion was born. It was the 1970s, andclassic car values were nothinglike they are today: he was able to

60

CAUTION: MAY INSPIRE SERIOUS GARAGE ENVY BY DAVID ROSE

The 1953 Allard J2X

BEAUTIFUL CARS ARE NOT JUST TRANSPORTATION, BUT ROLLING WORKS OF ART.wh

eels

VINTAGE ROAD SHOW

28 KILGORE_Wheels_Vintage Road Show.qxp:Wheels 7/20/11 1:21 PM Page 60

CELEBRATE OUR INDEPENDENTS

reso

urce

s

Our town has some great local merchants and professional resources, andhere are a few favorites. When you visit, tell them Kilgore Trout sent you.

Award-winning interiors for people who seek individuality are the hallmark of JOHN FLORIAN KONCAR.John offers complete residential transformations,customized renovations and interior decoration,tailored as finely as a bespoke suit and personalto the lives of the owners, all designed withconfidence, elegance and comfort. As John isfond of saying, “appropriateness is all.”

JOHN KONCAR INTERIORS, 216.831.1105, BROWSE HIS PORTFOLIO AT JOHNKONCAR.COM

From the most significant international artists of the 20th and 21st centuries to artists gaining world-wide recognition, CONTESSA GALLERYexhibits unique, highly sought after, museum-quality artwork. Picasso, Warhol, Close andDrebin are among the notables on view or in their extensive inventory of original paintings, works on paper, sculpture and photography.

CONTESSA GALLERY AT LEGACY VILLAGE, 216.382.7800, CONTESSAGALLERY.COM

No matter your preference in architecture style, locationor price, CICI RILEY is the one to call! She offers discreetprofessional service of the highest order, an unwaveringattention to detail, and with the backing of Howard Hanna, unparalleled customized marketing programsand the highest level of industry services with hands-on

attention to each client’s uniqueand individual needs.

CICI RILEY, CRS, REALTLL OR/BROKER, HOWARD HANNA, 216.831.9310, CICIRILEY.COM

NEIL LEESON has a passion for designing extraordinary weddings and unique eventsfor clients throughout northeast Ohio, and in destination cities including Miami, San Juan and Naples. Neil’s team coordinates gorgeous floraldesign with linens, lighting, draping, furniture, andaccessories to create a complete client-inspiredvision and a memorable one-of-a-kind occasion.

NEIL LEESON DECOR FLORAL, 330.535.0220, VIEW HIS PORTFOLIO AT NEILLEESON.COM

When you seek handmade in America, look forSimon Pearce glass and pottery at MULHOLLAND ANDSACHS. Open seven days weekly, and ready to ship giftsfor all occasions worldwide. If you seek a baby gift orsomething special for a 50th anniversary, Mulhollandand Sachs has it, or perhaps some jewelry to takehome just for yourself!Bridal Registry and Corporate Gifts also available.

MULHOLLAND AND SACHS, ETON CHAGRIN BLVD., 216.831.4444, MULHOLLANDSACHS.COM

What Kilgore Trout is to finely tailoredclothing, BLOCK BROS. AT HOME is to well-craftedEuropean bed and bath linens. Paul and Carolyne have been in town even longer thanwe have, and offer world class brands rangingfrom Yves DeLorme and Sferra to Scandia Down, plus extraordinary gifts and home accessories.

30495 PINETREE RD AT LANDER CIRCLE, 216.360.8600, BLOCKBROSATHOME.COM

PARK OPTICIANS is Ohio’s premier luxury optical boutique with over 60 years of experience and hundreds of brands (including Tag Heuer, shown). You’resure to find the best in experienced optical professionals and stylisheyewear options to complement your entire wardrobe.

PARK OPTICIANS, 30749 PINETREE RD ATAA LT ANDER CIRCLE, 216.360.9955, PARKOPTICIANS.NET

“There are so many cute shoes in the world;why aren’t there more cute shoe stores?” is what shoe-lover Amy Puchowicz once thought. With two locations now, AMY’S SHOEScarries a wide variety of special styles for distinctive tastes, while offering superiorcustomer service.

TWO LOCATIONS: ETON CHAGRIN BOULEVARD, 216.292.0120, AMYSSHOES.COMOLD RIVER SHOPPING AREA, 19134 OLD DETROIT RD, ROCKY RIVER, 440.409.0120

So often, we see a great cut or color, and we askour customer “Who does your hair?” And manytimes, the answer is “Studio MZ, of course.”STUDIO MZ loves their clients, and has created awelcoming, comforting, stylish destination salon offering a complete range of services for womenand men—and it’s just up the street.

STUDIO MZ SALON, 27629 CHAGRIN BOULEVARD, 216.464.3910, STUDIOMZ.NET

Discover your dream destination for professional makeup application, brow sculpting, makeuplessons, specialized facial treatments with results,and a boutique filled with fabulous products for pampering. Trust the professional artists at THEPOWDER ROOM for flawless bridal makeup, too. They’llhost your special day, or have their team come to you!

INSIDE ETON CHAGRIN BOULEVARD, 216.831.7666,THEPOWDERROOMBOUTIQUE.COM


acquire some amazing vehicles,which in today’s market would beuntouchable.

nd he’s still in the market. “Iwould love to find a perfectFerrari Dino and a Porsche356 Speedster,” Meyersconfides. “Both carswould have to be black: Ibase my color sense on

the design of the car and those twocars say ‘black’ to me... I just boughttwo 550 Marinello Ferraris, and Icouldn’t go with the traditional redor yellow people associate withFerraris; one is silver and the othertitanium.”

All of Myers’ cars are drivable,and drive them he does. His currentcollection, which includes an AstonMartin, a 1954 Corvette and a 289Cobra, is essentially a microcosm ofsports car history.

OTHER COVETABLE COLLECTIONS• When Ken Lingenfelter, whose father was a GM

executive, was growing up, stylish high perform-ance automobiles were a way of life. He boughthis first Corvette in 1977 and has since assem-bled a magnificent collection of 150 Corvettesand other Detroit muscle cars, as well as selectexotics from around the world.

• The Simeone Foundation Museum outside ofPhiladelphia, although now open to the public,began as a private collection assembled by neu-rosurgeon Dr. Fred Simeone. This collection cen-ters on racing cars from around the world and isconsidered one of the best in the country.

• In summer, cream-of-the-crop classic cars gatherat Concours d’Elegance events around the world.In the U.S., Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance isthought to be the best. The Greenwich, CT eventis considered the best on the East Coast.

28 KILGORE_Wheels_Vintage Road Show.qxp:Wheels 7/20/11 1:21 PM Page 62

T H E U L T I M A T E T R O U S E R


64

SOMETIMES, THE ANSWERS TO LIFE’S QUESTIONS AREN’T IN YOUR BRAIN.THEY’RE IN YOUR CLOSET. BY JAMES RARUSA former boss, the president of aluxury apparel firm, used to screamat me: “You know what your problem is? You think toomuch! Just sell!” Today, I work for myself. I playmenswear psychologist and at a psychologist’s rate,though I’m not a doctor.

Analyze this: Twice yearly, menswear merchants filltheir shops with thoughtfully selected apparel, trans-forming their stores into virtual treasure troves of luxu-ry. A man’s closet should be a similar treasure trove, theclothes he pulls out each morning helping to determineif people will buy into his personality, business acumen,credibility, or whatever he’s selling.

I recently worked with a client in his cedar paneledcloset. His trousers, dress shirts and blazers hung evenlyspaced on cedar hangers. His shoes rested in perfect rows,his belts and ties were arranged meticulously.

I thought about this client, a bachelor with a highfinance job: trim physique, handsome features, great hair,beautiful clothes. But then a flash: he owned no sweaters!Mother Nature took the time to create this perfect speci-men, almost begging to be wrapped in luxurious fabrics,and not one cashmere knit!

I looked around his spectacular apartment with itsexpansive views of Central Park and envisioned thewomen he’d soon date thanks to this newly conceivedwardrobe. A breakthrough moment, said my inner Freud.

Want your own breakthrough? Think of your favoritestore as your closet; then think of your wardrobe as a jazzsong with layered textures, colors, tones and dimensionsto help showcase your own unique qualities.

Soon after shrinking my client’s head with this musicmetaphor, he became the proud owner of a dozen two-and four-ply cashmere knits and a few merinos in mas-culine shades both deep and pale. His wardrobe is nowbalanced with casually elegant cardigans, turtlenecks,V-necks and crews; his tailored clothing pieces nowdouble as sportswear. His love life has improved, too:wearing an outfit of his own creation featuring a knitcardigan, he recently met the woman of his dreams.

When people ask me what I do for a living, I oftensay, “I alter men’s perceptions of their closets so thatwhen they get dressed each day, they’re energizedand inspired.” To which they usually respond, “Youthink too much! But let me ask you a question. Can Iwear…?”

end

page

CLOSET THERAPY

28 KILGORE_End Page_Closet Therapy.qxp:End_Page 7/19/11 5:39 PM Page 64

of North OlmstedMercedes-Benz Sprinterof North Olmsted

of North Olmsted of Clevelandof Cleveland

Airport Infinitiof Cleveland of ClevelandAirport Acura Beachwood Buick Beachwood GMC

North Olmstedof North Olmsted of North Olmsted

www.collectionautogroup.com

Always looking out for

number one.(That’s you, by the way)


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